Lawn care
Reverting to the issue of developing a Lawn from scratch, here is the rest of the Article from our friends at http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm
"There are 2 basic types of lawn grasses - your cool-season and warm-season types. Cool-season grasses are hardy, examples include Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue. These grow best in northern, cold-winter climates. As their name suggests, they grow most vigorously in the cool months of the spring and fall seasons. Although they grow slowly in summer, they will stay green through the heat if they're well watered. If you have a cool-season lawn, you need to fertilize it twice: once in late fall, about two weeks before the first frost; and again in late winter to early spring. But go ahead and follow the other steps listed below in early spring when days are still cool. Water this grass about an inch a week, spring through fall.
Warm-season grasses include Bermuda grass and zoysia grass. These grow best in the mild-winter, warm-summer areas of the southern and southwestern United States. These grasses love the summer heat, and tend to go dormant and turn brown in winter. They die in areas where winters are too cold. Begin caring for a warm-season lawn later in the spring, when temperatures are regularly in the mid-80s. Fertilize such grasses in early to mid-spring and again four to six weeks later; do not fertilize in the fall. Water about an inch a week in spring and summer.
Nine Easy Steps to a Better Lawn
Warm-season or cool, all lawns need proper care. Here's how to give your grass a great start.
. Fertilize your lawn. Use a complete lawn fertilizer and apply it, following the recommendations printed on the label. Your lawn will be denser, greener, have fewer weeds and will resist insects and diseases.
. Adjust your soil pH. If your soil is very acidic (likely, if you have abundant summer rainfall), apply powdered limestone to adjust the pH. Talk to the folks at your local nursery or someone at your local cooperative extension office for local advice. These people can help you test your soil pH and tell you the recommended amounts of lime to apply.
. Control weeds. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide, a weed killer that also prevents weeds from reappearing later in the growing season. These herbicides are generally sold in granular form. Do this before weed seeds germinate. To kill broadleaf weeds that appear later, apply a "weed-and-feed" product. Again, timing varies with local conditions, so consult your local nursery for advice. Follow all label instructions carefully.
. Know when to mow. Mow your lawn only when the grass has grown 30 to 50 percent higher than the recommended mowing height. For most cool-season grasses, the recommended height is 3 to 4 inches, so you'd cut when it's 4 to 6 inches high. For most warm-season grasses, the recommended height is 2 to 3 inches, so you'll mow when it's 3 to 4 1/2 inches high. Mow all season, whenever the grass is 30 to 50 percent taller than the recommended height. If you don't let the grass grow too long between mowings, you can leave the clippings on the lawn rather than rake them up. The cut grasses will break down quickly and contribute organic matter and nitrogen to the soil.
. Aerate your lawn. Aerators remove small plugs of grass and soil from the lawn, admitting air to the soil, breaking up mats of dead grass and debris that can accumulate at root level, and invigorating root growth. Aerating also helps water and nutrients penetrate the lawn. You can rent a power aerator at local rental company or hire a lawn-care company to power-aerate for you. The best power aerators work by driving little hollow pistons into the ground that remove tiny cores of soil. For small areas, aerate manually with a sod-coring tool, a special tool that resembles a garden fork.
. Reseed your lawn if necessary. If your cool-season lawn is thin or spotty in places, reseed it. First, roughly rake the area with a steel rake with short, hard tines. Then spread fresh grass seed, following the recommended coverage rates on the seed package. Lightly cover the new seeds with mulch or other >organic matter, and then keep the area moist until the seeds germinate.
. De-thatch your lawn. Thatch is a thick, spongy layer of organic matter and debris that builds up between the grass blades and roots. By keeping water and nutrients from reaching the roots, thatch causes your lawn to grow poorly. Aerating will help to reduce thatch, and you can de-thatch small areas by raking vigorously with a steel rake. But to de-thatch large areas, it's best to rent a power rake or hire a lawn company to do the work for you.
. Check your irrigation system. Each spring, check your irrigation system to make sure it's running properly. Repair clogged and broken sprinkler heads, then adjust your sprinklers so that water falls on the lawn instead of on sidewalks, driveways or patios.
. Water. Most lawns don't need much water early in the season, but if the season has been dry, water deeply. You can tell your lawn is drying when the grass begins to lose color, becoming gray-green or brown. Also, you'll notice that blades don't spring back when you walk across the lawn. Water long enough to wet the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. To measure, push a metal rod into the soil. It will penetrate more easily through moist soil than dry soil, and you can feel the point where the dry soil begins.
Follow these key steps and watch a rich, green carpet of lawn develop, from spring right on through fall."
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm
Lawn care
Showing posts with label gardening.. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gardening.. Show all posts
Monday, May 28, 2007
Tuesday, May 08, 2007
5 steps to a lush, almost perfect lawn
lawn care, organic, gardening
Well guys, we certainly kicked Tony Blair in the goolies as I hoped we would. Good riddance to bad rubbish! Come on Blair - Do the decent thing and resign today. On more mundane matters, I found this Article at www.american-lawns.com and was attracted by its simplistic, yet effective recommendations. Do the simple things well and regularly and you can't go wrong.
"While there is no magic pill to achieving a better lawn there are some basic steps you can follow that will go a long way in giving you a lush, healthy lawn you'll be proud to walk over. Here then are the 5 basic steps to help anyone achieve a beautiful lawn.
Get the mowing height right for the right time of year.
There's more to mowing than just cutting the grass every saturday. One of the most fundamental steps to a perfect lawn is getting the mowing height right for your type of lawn and for the season.
Most grasses do best with a length of 2 - 3". This applies for spring and early fall. In the summer, if possible, set it even higher. Never go below the minimum recommended height except for the last mowing of the season which should be around 1.5" for most turf grasses.
Mowing height is important because the grass uses the extra length to absorb the sunshine it needs to grow and develop into a healthy plant.
Never remove more than 1/3 at any one mowing. This may mean you'll have to mow more often during prime growing times (usually spring and early fall).
Leave the clippings on the lawn after you mow. This not only save time and energy, but the clippings decompose and add vital nutrients back into the soil. Grass cycling recycles plant nutrients back into the soil. Clippings contain the same beneficial nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium nutrients as that expensive bag of fertilizer. In fact, clippings can provide up to one-third of the annual feeding requirement for your lawn.
Use a sharp blade.
The type of mower doesn't matter, but the blade's condition does. A dull blade tears at the grass. Take a close look at a grass blade a few days after mowing. If the blade is dull you'll notice a jagged brown line across the tip of the cut grass. This is a good indication that your blade needs sharpening. Professional mowers sharpen their blades about every 8 hours of use. For most homeowners, twice a year is recommended.
The jagged edges caused by a dull mower blade make it more difficult for the grass to fight off pests and disease.
Regulate the water intake
Over watering your lawn causes more damage than a lack of water. That's because most turf grasses can handle dry spells, but not flooding. Most grasses require 1 - 1.5" of water per week. This is enough water to moisten the soil to 4 - 6" below the surface for clay soils and 8 - 10" for sandy soils.
Don't guess at how much water your lawn is getting. For measuring Mother Nature's contribution, invest in a rain gauge. If at the end of the week she's contributed enough, hold off adding more. If she comes up short, you'll want to add some supplemental watering. Again, measure how much water your sprinkler is putting down.
You'll have to follow local regulations when there are watering bans, but just remember that less water is acceptable and grass is a very resilient plant. When the rains do return your lawn will come back with a little encouragement on your part.
Give your lawn a regular balanced diet-- but don't over-feed it!
Don't over-feed your lawn with too much of a good thing. 4 balanced fertilizer applications a year is plenty: spring, summer, early fall and after the first frost. If you're in drought conditions, skip the summer feeding. Never skip the fall feeding however. It’s important to use lawn products by following label instructions. Get the best results by following the directions. Overapplication will not improve performance.
Prevention is the best medicine for a healthy lawn
Preventing problems is better than having to correct them. Consistent maintenance is the key. Repair bare spots as needed. Spot treat for weeds with the right herbicide following label directions. Use pre-emergent herbicides for most grassy-type weeds like crabgrass.
Soils can become compacted in high-traffic areas or in areas that have mostly clay soils. Have your lawn aerated once a year, preferably in the fall when soil temperature is around 60 degrees.
That's it. Pretty simple actually and easy to follow."
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: www.american-lawns.comcom
lawn care, organic, gardening
Well guys, we certainly kicked Tony Blair in the goolies as I hoped we would. Good riddance to bad rubbish! Come on Blair - Do the decent thing and resign today. On more mundane matters, I found this Article at www.american-lawns.com and was attracted by its simplistic, yet effective recommendations. Do the simple things well and regularly and you can't go wrong.
"While there is no magic pill to achieving a better lawn there are some basic steps you can follow that will go a long way in giving you a lush, healthy lawn you'll be proud to walk over. Here then are the 5 basic steps to help anyone achieve a beautiful lawn.
Get the mowing height right for the right time of year.
There's more to mowing than just cutting the grass every saturday. One of the most fundamental steps to a perfect lawn is getting the mowing height right for your type of lawn and for the season.
Most grasses do best with a length of 2 - 3". This applies for spring and early fall. In the summer, if possible, set it even higher. Never go below the minimum recommended height except for the last mowing of the season which should be around 1.5" for most turf grasses.
Mowing height is important because the grass uses the extra length to absorb the sunshine it needs to grow and develop into a healthy plant.
Never remove more than 1/3 at any one mowing. This may mean you'll have to mow more often during prime growing times (usually spring and early fall).
Leave the clippings on the lawn after you mow. This not only save time and energy, but the clippings decompose and add vital nutrients back into the soil. Grass cycling recycles plant nutrients back into the soil. Clippings contain the same beneficial nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium nutrients as that expensive bag of fertilizer. In fact, clippings can provide up to one-third of the annual feeding requirement for your lawn.
Use a sharp blade.
The type of mower doesn't matter, but the blade's condition does. A dull blade tears at the grass. Take a close look at a grass blade a few days after mowing. If the blade is dull you'll notice a jagged brown line across the tip of the cut grass. This is a good indication that your blade needs sharpening. Professional mowers sharpen their blades about every 8 hours of use. For most homeowners, twice a year is recommended.
The jagged edges caused by a dull mower blade make it more difficult for the grass to fight off pests and disease.
Regulate the water intake
Over watering your lawn causes more damage than a lack of water. That's because most turf grasses can handle dry spells, but not flooding. Most grasses require 1 - 1.5" of water per week. This is enough water to moisten the soil to 4 - 6" below the surface for clay soils and 8 - 10" for sandy soils.
Don't guess at how much water your lawn is getting. For measuring Mother Nature's contribution, invest in a rain gauge. If at the end of the week she's contributed enough, hold off adding more. If she comes up short, you'll want to add some supplemental watering. Again, measure how much water your sprinkler is putting down.
You'll have to follow local regulations when there are watering bans, but just remember that less water is acceptable and grass is a very resilient plant. When the rains do return your lawn will come back with a little encouragement on your part.
Give your lawn a regular balanced diet-- but don't over-feed it!
Don't over-feed your lawn with too much of a good thing. 4 balanced fertilizer applications a year is plenty: spring, summer, early fall and after the first frost. If you're in drought conditions, skip the summer feeding. Never skip the fall feeding however. It’s important to use lawn products by following label instructions. Get the best results by following the directions. Overapplication will not improve performance.
Prevention is the best medicine for a healthy lawn
Preventing problems is better than having to correct them. Consistent maintenance is the key. Repair bare spots as needed. Spot treat for weeds with the right herbicide following label directions. Use pre-emergent herbicides for most grassy-type weeds like crabgrass.
Soils can become compacted in high-traffic areas or in areas that have mostly clay soils. Have your lawn aerated once a year, preferably in the fall when soil temperature is around 60 degrees.
That's it. Pretty simple actually and easy to follow."
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: www.american-lawns.comcom
lawn care, organic, gardening
Wednesday, January 10, 2007
Lawn Care in November and December
lawn care
November
With the leaves almost gone, you will not have to rake as much. November is the time when your lawn care will begin to slow down. You will not have as much to do and you will be able to relax and enjoy what you have created.
In November, you should:
Clean up any clutter on your lawn
Secure all lawn equipment for the wintertime in a shed or garage
If you still need to repair any lawn equipment, you should do so now
Check on smaller shrubs to see if they will need reinforcement
Dig up bulbs and other seeds to plant for the springtime
Lay down mulch if necessary
This is a short list, but the items on it are important. You should complete them because they will help during the rest of the year.
December
During December, you may not want to have to much do with your lawn. This is understandable. But you should go outside and check on plants that are small and may need your help to make it to the springtime.
In December, you should:
Assess all remaining plants, trees, shrubs, and flowers
Reinforce any plants that are falling over
Make sure that plants are safe against the snow
Check on tree branches
Take a good look at the grass
Drainage
Since water and ice can cause cracking in your lawn structures, you should keep an eye on those as well. The winter may look peaceful, but in reality, your lawn still needs your care.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
November
With the leaves almost gone, you will not have to rake as much. November is the time when your lawn care will begin to slow down. You will not have as much to do and you will be able to relax and enjoy what you have created.
In November, you should:
Clean up any clutter on your lawn
Secure all lawn equipment for the wintertime in a shed or garage
If you still need to repair any lawn equipment, you should do so now
Check on smaller shrubs to see if they will need reinforcement
Dig up bulbs and other seeds to plant for the springtime
Lay down mulch if necessary
This is a short list, but the items on it are important. You should complete them because they will help during the rest of the year.
December
During December, you may not want to have to much do with your lawn. This is understandable. But you should go outside and check on plants that are small and may need your help to make it to the springtime.
In December, you should:
Assess all remaining plants, trees, shrubs, and flowers
Reinforce any plants that are falling over
Make sure that plants are safe against the snow
Check on tree branches
Take a good look at the grass
Drainage
Since water and ice can cause cracking in your lawn structures, you should keep an eye on those as well. The winter may look peaceful, but in reality, your lawn still needs your care.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
Saturday, December 02, 2006
Lawn Care - Organic Fertilizers!
lawn care
We can never have too much organic matter dug into the garden particularly in the vegetable garden. Whilst in the humus (half decomposed state), it acts as a sponge in light soils to retain food and moisture; in heavy clay it provides a drainage filter between the soil particles.
When preparing the beds for vegetables the organic fertilizer should be added at a rate of two bucketfuls to the sq. yd.
Manures
Well-rotted animal manure is one of the finest by-products that are available to the organic gardener. It may sound like a messy and an unhygienic substance to handle but in this form it looks completely different from the fresh product. It doesn't smell, in fact it resembles rich, brown, crumbly compost, which of course it is. However, when handling any type of composts and fertilizers it is sensible to wear gloves.
Farmyard manure is a mixture of the droppings of horses, pigs or cows, including their urine and the litter used for their bedding. Cow manures are wetter, colder and lower in nutrients than horse manure, and decompose more slowly in the soil, which makes them more suitable for sandy soils. Likewise, pig manure is slow acting but long lasting, as it is slow to ferment, this too is a cold manure and therefore unsuitable for the making of hot-beds. Bullock manure is not recommended because many are fed a composition diet to build up tissue and body weight, therefore the residue could be transported into their manure and which might not necessarily be beneficial to us.
One ton of farmyard manure will give about 10lb. Nitrogen, 5lb. Phosphoric acid and 10lb. Potash, much of which is accessible to the plants soon after application.
Not everyone lives in the country or close by riding stables but many of the animal manures can be purchased from good Garden Centres or from suppliers with web sites who can deliver to your home. Manures are generally good all round balanced fertilizers with amounts of nitrogen as well as a little of many other ingredients. It must always be used when it has matured, fresh will harm the plants by "burning" the stems and roots. If you are able to collect it from source let it rot for about 8 weeks but do make sure that you cover it to stop the rain-washing away all the nutrients. In autumn dig lots of manure into the vegetable plots it will ensure that the plants have a really good start in the following season. Besides root crops prefer soil that has been manured the previous season.
Chicken Manure
Chicken manure is often sold in pellet form so it is easy and cleaner to handle. It is very rich being high in nitrogen but it is lacking in almost all other nutrients. However it is very useful when used combined with other fertilizers. Chicken manure must never be used fresh.
Hop Manures
Spent hops are useful for improving the physical condition of the soil, however they have little if any nutrients.
Compost
The term "compost" is generally thought to mean a mixture of soil, peat and sand, which is used in potting and often called potting compost. There is another medium, which is vegetable waste of all kinds, which has been thoroughly rotted down and formed a blackish-brown crumbling material very near to humus.
I think everyone is aware of the benefits of composted plant waste. Rich in all the necessary ingredients including micronutrients and micro organisms it is one of the best if not the best products we can use on our soil. Whether it is a simple worm bin or specially built container, anyone who is keen to grow his or her own food must have a compost source. Not only will it be a place to dispose of the grass cuttings but you can add lots of other waste too:
1. Leaves
2. Clippings
3. Straw.
4. Sawdust.
5. Shredded branches and twigs.
6. Cut flowers.
7. Comfrey leaves.
8. Tea leaves.
9. Coffee grounds.
10. Egg shells.
11. Banana skins.
12. Fluff from the vacuum cleaner.
13. Manure.
14. Urine.
15. Shredded paper.
16. Vegetable waste
If you live near the sea you can add kelp (a form of sea weed). Never add kitchen scraps because it will attract vermin. Other ingredients that should not be used are dog or cat manure (their worming treatment will kill off the composting worms); don't use citrus peel either its too acidic for worms and don't use diseased plants it could mean that you run the risk of spreading the disease all around your garden.
To help the compost to rot down an activator should be used. This can be manure, bird droppings, urine or a propriety activator; in dry weather it should be watered.
In a properly made compost heap the temperature will rise to 180deg. F. (82 deg C.). It is then that the actinomycetes break down the more resistant proteins and carbohydrates. As the temperature begins to cool and this could take about a month, the bacteria will begin their work to complete the breakdown process.
It will take roughly about 12 months for the pile to break down properly into compost. If your container does not have a lid it is a good idea to cover the top with plastic sheeting or a tarpaulin weighted down to reduce the amount of rainwater from leaching out the nutrients. It will also keep in the heat to allow fermentation and a quicker breakdown. It's a good idea to give the pile a forking over from time to time this will accelerate decomposition. Another tip, chop-up the waste as it will take less time to break down. Vary the type of material making layers of the different ingredients this all helps to speed up the process, turning it with a garden fork from time to will also help.
If the composted waste takes up an area of at least 12ft. x 12ft. it is a good idea to include a ventilation shaft that will help with decomposition of the material. This is done by inserting a post in the centre of the heap, piling the waste around it layer by layer until the pile reaches a height of about 6 ft., then the post is removed, leaving an air shaft through the middle; this will ensure that the waste does get a balanced airflow.
It is easy to see when the compost is ready; it will be rich and dark brown, crumbly, loose, in fact it resembles the potting compost that comes in bags from the garden centres that are ready to plant into. It will have become the perfect product to return to feed the soil.
Compost when properly made, can be more valuable than dung for it contains plant food and it is alive with millions of micro organisms for the health and well being of the soil. It will contain most of the minor minerals or trace elements all vital in good, healthy crop cultivation.
When the compost is ready to use it can be added all around the garden but especially the vegetable plot. It will improve the soil just dig in between 1 - 2 inches of compost. It can be use as mulch, or as an extra boost during the hungriest part of the growing season when the fruit are developing. You can even mix some compost with water to make a liquid feed.
A compost bin can be constructed using four wooden pallets, each stood up on its side with the topside of the pallet, which has all the slats, facing inwards so that the extra slats made good compost retention. Through the centre of each pallet to retain the position, two stout stakes are driven vertically into the ground. When the compartment is full up, three more pallets can be joined to the side, making a second chamber. After this too is full, a third one can be erected and eventually a fourth; the total number of pallets required is twelve. By the time the fourth is filled, the first compartment will have compost ready to be used around the garden. Access to each compartment cannot be easier; either of the outward walls of each bin may be simply lifted over the stakes for the removal of the compost. If the pallets are first painted with wood preservative they should last for a quite few years, after which they can be replaced either individually or completely at very little cost.
Liquid manure
There are so many things that you can make up into a liquid feed. Comfrey leaves put in a bin with water and allowed to rot down make a very good liquid feed. However, other ingredients such as manure, blood and bone meal, a capful of concentrated seaweed fertilizer allowed to stand for about a week, make up a very fine brew. It must be diluted at a ratio of about 1 parts liquid feed to 4 parts water. As you draw the last dregs from the container, it is wiser to dilute a little more, as the mixture becomes more concentrated at the bottom. Worm bins produce very good liquid feed and just as the previously mentioned brew, must be diluted before use. When using the liquid, water it onto the soil around the plants avoiding the foliage as much as possible. This feed can be administered about every 2 - 3 weeks throughout summer.
Green manure
Green manure has been used for thousands of years for mainly vegetable crops; it is a way of replenishing organic matter into the soil, especially soils that have been impoverished by chemical fertilization. It is a sustainable enrichment of soil by incorporating un-decomposed green plant material that will benefit the soil in many ways:
Increase soil fertility
Increase biological activity
Nourish subsequent crops
Reduce soil erosion
Reduce nitrate losses
Weed suppressant
Soil structure improvement
The annual lupin is extensively used as a green manure crop as is Crimson clover (Trigonella foenum graecum) and Mustard (Sinapsis alba). These will add organic matter and really improve the soil as they rot down. One key ingredient in green manure is legumes, which fix nitrogen into the soil. This is a good practise especially in soil where hungry feeders have been grown.
Green manure For more information visit: www.mrsgreenfingers.co.uk (You need an Internet connection to visit this site)
However, green manure does not give quick results as it is slow to activate - and the reason why it is not often used in ordinary home gardens. It usually takes at the very least six months for the vegetable waste to rot down. When crops are dug into the land in a fresh condition, the soil organisms have to get to work on the green plants and break them down. In doing so they starve the land of nitrogen during the time the waste is being broken down. Therefore green manure method is generally applied on land that is to have a season of rest. Besides there are other factors, which come into play in order that the best results are achieved. The land should be properly drained so that sufficient air is present; it should be adequately limed so that it is not acid, and the soil should be warm.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn care
We can never have too much organic matter dug into the garden particularly in the vegetable garden. Whilst in the humus (half decomposed state), it acts as a sponge in light soils to retain food and moisture; in heavy clay it provides a drainage filter between the soil particles.
When preparing the beds for vegetables the organic fertilizer should be added at a rate of two bucketfuls to the sq. yd.
Manures
Well-rotted animal manure is one of the finest by-products that are available to the organic gardener. It may sound like a messy and an unhygienic substance to handle but in this form it looks completely different from the fresh product. It doesn't smell, in fact it resembles rich, brown, crumbly compost, which of course it is. However, when handling any type of composts and fertilizers it is sensible to wear gloves.
Farmyard manure is a mixture of the droppings of horses, pigs or cows, including their urine and the litter used for their bedding. Cow manures are wetter, colder and lower in nutrients than horse manure, and decompose more slowly in the soil, which makes them more suitable for sandy soils. Likewise, pig manure is slow acting but long lasting, as it is slow to ferment, this too is a cold manure and therefore unsuitable for the making of hot-beds. Bullock manure is not recommended because many are fed a composition diet to build up tissue and body weight, therefore the residue could be transported into their manure and which might not necessarily be beneficial to us.
One ton of farmyard manure will give about 10lb. Nitrogen, 5lb. Phosphoric acid and 10lb. Potash, much of which is accessible to the plants soon after application.
Not everyone lives in the country or close by riding stables but many of the animal manures can be purchased from good Garden Centres or from suppliers with web sites who can deliver to your home. Manures are generally good all round balanced fertilizers with amounts of nitrogen as well as a little of many other ingredients. It must always be used when it has matured, fresh will harm the plants by "burning" the stems and roots. If you are able to collect it from source let it rot for about 8 weeks but do make sure that you cover it to stop the rain-washing away all the nutrients. In autumn dig lots of manure into the vegetable plots it will ensure that the plants have a really good start in the following season. Besides root crops prefer soil that has been manured the previous season.
Chicken Manure
Chicken manure is often sold in pellet form so it is easy and cleaner to handle. It is very rich being high in nitrogen but it is lacking in almost all other nutrients. However it is very useful when used combined with other fertilizers. Chicken manure must never be used fresh.
Hop Manures
Spent hops are useful for improving the physical condition of the soil, however they have little if any nutrients.
Compost
The term "compost" is generally thought to mean a mixture of soil, peat and sand, which is used in potting and often called potting compost. There is another medium, which is vegetable waste of all kinds, which has been thoroughly rotted down and formed a blackish-brown crumbling material very near to humus.
I think everyone is aware of the benefits of composted plant waste. Rich in all the necessary ingredients including micronutrients and micro organisms it is one of the best if not the best products we can use on our soil. Whether it is a simple worm bin or specially built container, anyone who is keen to grow his or her own food must have a compost source. Not only will it be a place to dispose of the grass cuttings but you can add lots of other waste too:
1. Leaves
2. Clippings
3. Straw.
4. Sawdust.
5. Shredded branches and twigs.
6. Cut flowers.
7. Comfrey leaves.
8. Tea leaves.
9. Coffee grounds.
10. Egg shells.
11. Banana skins.
12. Fluff from the vacuum cleaner.
13. Manure.
14. Urine.
15. Shredded paper.
16. Vegetable waste
If you live near the sea you can add kelp (a form of sea weed). Never add kitchen scraps because it will attract vermin. Other ingredients that should not be used are dog or cat manure (their worming treatment will kill off the composting worms); don't use citrus peel either its too acidic for worms and don't use diseased plants it could mean that you run the risk of spreading the disease all around your garden.
To help the compost to rot down an activator should be used. This can be manure, bird droppings, urine or a propriety activator; in dry weather it should be watered.
In a properly made compost heap the temperature will rise to 180deg. F. (82 deg C.). It is then that the actinomycetes break down the more resistant proteins and carbohydrates. As the temperature begins to cool and this could take about a month, the bacteria will begin their work to complete the breakdown process.
It will take roughly about 12 months for the pile to break down properly into compost. If your container does not have a lid it is a good idea to cover the top with plastic sheeting or a tarpaulin weighted down to reduce the amount of rainwater from leaching out the nutrients. It will also keep in the heat to allow fermentation and a quicker breakdown. It's a good idea to give the pile a forking over from time to time this will accelerate decomposition. Another tip, chop-up the waste as it will take less time to break down. Vary the type of material making layers of the different ingredients this all helps to speed up the process, turning it with a garden fork from time to will also help.
If the composted waste takes up an area of at least 12ft. x 12ft. it is a good idea to include a ventilation shaft that will help with decomposition of the material. This is done by inserting a post in the centre of the heap, piling the waste around it layer by layer until the pile reaches a height of about 6 ft., then the post is removed, leaving an air shaft through the middle; this will ensure that the waste does get a balanced airflow.
It is easy to see when the compost is ready; it will be rich and dark brown, crumbly, loose, in fact it resembles the potting compost that comes in bags from the garden centres that are ready to plant into. It will have become the perfect product to return to feed the soil.
Compost when properly made, can be more valuable than dung for it contains plant food and it is alive with millions of micro organisms for the health and well being of the soil. It will contain most of the minor minerals or trace elements all vital in good, healthy crop cultivation.
When the compost is ready to use it can be added all around the garden but especially the vegetable plot. It will improve the soil just dig in between 1 - 2 inches of compost. It can be use as mulch, or as an extra boost during the hungriest part of the growing season when the fruit are developing. You can even mix some compost with water to make a liquid feed.
A compost bin can be constructed using four wooden pallets, each stood up on its side with the topside of the pallet, which has all the slats, facing inwards so that the extra slats made good compost retention. Through the centre of each pallet to retain the position, two stout stakes are driven vertically into the ground. When the compartment is full up, three more pallets can be joined to the side, making a second chamber. After this too is full, a third one can be erected and eventually a fourth; the total number of pallets required is twelve. By the time the fourth is filled, the first compartment will have compost ready to be used around the garden. Access to each compartment cannot be easier; either of the outward walls of each bin may be simply lifted over the stakes for the removal of the compost. If the pallets are first painted with wood preservative they should last for a quite few years, after which they can be replaced either individually or completely at very little cost.
Liquid manure
There are so many things that you can make up into a liquid feed. Comfrey leaves put in a bin with water and allowed to rot down make a very good liquid feed. However, other ingredients such as manure, blood and bone meal, a capful of concentrated seaweed fertilizer allowed to stand for about a week, make up a very fine brew. It must be diluted at a ratio of about 1 parts liquid feed to 4 parts water. As you draw the last dregs from the container, it is wiser to dilute a little more, as the mixture becomes more concentrated at the bottom. Worm bins produce very good liquid feed and just as the previously mentioned brew, must be diluted before use. When using the liquid, water it onto the soil around the plants avoiding the foliage as much as possible. This feed can be administered about every 2 - 3 weeks throughout summer.
Green manure
Green manure has been used for thousands of years for mainly vegetable crops; it is a way of replenishing organic matter into the soil, especially soils that have been impoverished by chemical fertilization. It is a sustainable enrichment of soil by incorporating un-decomposed green plant material that will benefit the soil in many ways:
Increase soil fertility
Increase biological activity
Nourish subsequent crops
Reduce soil erosion
Reduce nitrate losses
Weed suppressant
Soil structure improvement
The annual lupin is extensively used as a green manure crop as is Crimson clover (Trigonella foenum graecum) and Mustard (Sinapsis alba). These will add organic matter and really improve the soil as they rot down. One key ingredient in green manure is legumes, which fix nitrogen into the soil. This is a good practise especially in soil where hungry feeders have been grown.
Green manure For more information visit: www.mrsgreenfingers.co.uk (You need an Internet connection to visit this site)
However, green manure does not give quick results as it is slow to activate - and the reason why it is not often used in ordinary home gardens. It usually takes at the very least six months for the vegetable waste to rot down. When crops are dug into the land in a fresh condition, the soil organisms have to get to work on the green plants and break them down. In doing so they starve the land of nitrogen during the time the waste is being broken down. Therefore green manure method is generally applied on land that is to have a season of rest. Besides there are other factors, which come into play in order that the best results are achieved. The land should be properly drained so that sufficient air is present; it should be adequately limed so that it is not acid, and the soil should be warm.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn care
Friday, December 01, 2006
Lawn Tasks - June to August!
lawn care
Summer.
June.
June is a great time for your lawn. Your flowers and plants will be in full bloom, your grass will be green and lush, and you will have plenty of weeds to pick. Ain’t life grand?
In June, you should:
Weed your lawn at least two days a week
Trim back leaves on plants and shrubs
Mow your lawn when it needs it
Take care of thatch if necessary
Water the lawn
Add lawn decorations and other landscaping
Clean out corners, porch railings, seldom used sections of the lawn
June should be the month where you look around your lawn to see if anything needs mending. This can include:
Fences
Driveways
Stone walkways
Dry creek beds
Porches
Patios
Gazebos
June is also the time when you should rid your lawn of debris, piles, and clean out your gutters, underneath the porch stairs, and in other areas. This will help you keep the insect population under control.
Be sure to wear gloves when removing old leaves and other debris because you never know whose home you may be disturbing.
After you clean out these areas, spray them down with insect spray. If you are experiencing ant or other insects, you should consider using an ant spray or hiring an insect removal specialist to help you.
June is a good time to complete these tasks because it is not too hot yet, so you can put in a few hours on the weekend and not have to worry about getting sun burn.
July
While July can still bring some rain, overall it will be hot. You will need to make sure that your grass does not burn during this time. Watering will be very important. In July, you will have to keep up your weeding so that the weeds do not multiply.
In order to create a lawn that looks great during even the hottest weather, you should perform the following tasks:
Plant shade plants in shady areas
Plant drought-resistant plants in open areas
Water the lawn daily
Weed the lawn
Mow the lawn
If you have a mole problem, buy traps to catch them
Reduce the number of mosquitoes with insect repellant
Use summer fertilizers
The end of July is a great time to buy plants that you will be planting in the fall. You can water them daily and keep them alive until the end of August or early September. You will save money buying these flowers at the end of the growing season.
Yes, you will have to keep weeding. But if you used landscape fabric, you should see a reduction of weeds around your plants and flowers. If you need to, you should replace the mulch with fresh mulch or compost. This will help keep your plants and flowers looking their best.
July is also the time when you should sit back and enjoy the work you have done so far. Your lawn should be shaping up quite nicely.
August
August is a hot month also, but toward the end it will begin to cool down slightly. During this time you may want to beginning planning for next year. Deciding where to put plants and flowers to deciding if you want to add new lawn decorations can also be done at this time.
In August, you should:
Trim trees
Trim plants
Trim weeds that are growing from between the concrete foundation or from sidewalks
Use summer fertilizer
Decide where to plant flowers and other plants for spring
Aerate if necessary
Weed the lawn
Water the lawn when it needs it
Mow the lawn
Use pre emergent herbicide if you have crabgrass
August is the time for planning. You will have to make decisions as to how you want your lawn to look once fall arrives. You should map out your plants and flowers, make sure you have plenty of mulch on hand, and make sure your grass is healthy.
During the fall season, you will no longer have to mow your lawn. While this is will save you time, you will still have to look after it. Remove thatch during the end of summer before you put pre emergent herbicide on your lawn.
If your lawn has patches of grass that are burnt or discolored, you may need to remove them and put down seed in order to grow healthy grass before the winter time as this grass could become thatch if is not taken care of. Thatch can cost you a lot of time if you are not reducing the conditions where it can thrive.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn care
Summer.
June.
June is a great time for your lawn. Your flowers and plants will be in full bloom, your grass will be green and lush, and you will have plenty of weeds to pick. Ain’t life grand?
In June, you should:
Weed your lawn at least two days a week
Trim back leaves on plants and shrubs
Mow your lawn when it needs it
Take care of thatch if necessary
Water the lawn
Add lawn decorations and other landscaping
Clean out corners, porch railings, seldom used sections of the lawn
June should be the month where you look around your lawn to see if anything needs mending. This can include:
Fences
Driveways
Stone walkways
Dry creek beds
Porches
Patios
Gazebos
June is also the time when you should rid your lawn of debris, piles, and clean out your gutters, underneath the porch stairs, and in other areas. This will help you keep the insect population under control.
Be sure to wear gloves when removing old leaves and other debris because you never know whose home you may be disturbing.
After you clean out these areas, spray them down with insect spray. If you are experiencing ant or other insects, you should consider using an ant spray or hiring an insect removal specialist to help you.
June is a good time to complete these tasks because it is not too hot yet, so you can put in a few hours on the weekend and not have to worry about getting sun burn.
July
While July can still bring some rain, overall it will be hot. You will need to make sure that your grass does not burn during this time. Watering will be very important. In July, you will have to keep up your weeding so that the weeds do not multiply.
In order to create a lawn that looks great during even the hottest weather, you should perform the following tasks:
Plant shade plants in shady areas
Plant drought-resistant plants in open areas
Water the lawn daily
Weed the lawn
Mow the lawn
If you have a mole problem, buy traps to catch them
Reduce the number of mosquitoes with insect repellant
Use summer fertilizers
The end of July is a great time to buy plants that you will be planting in the fall. You can water them daily and keep them alive until the end of August or early September. You will save money buying these flowers at the end of the growing season.
Yes, you will have to keep weeding. But if you used landscape fabric, you should see a reduction of weeds around your plants and flowers. If you need to, you should replace the mulch with fresh mulch or compost. This will help keep your plants and flowers looking their best.
July is also the time when you should sit back and enjoy the work you have done so far. Your lawn should be shaping up quite nicely.
August
August is a hot month also, but toward the end it will begin to cool down slightly. During this time you may want to beginning planning for next year. Deciding where to put plants and flowers to deciding if you want to add new lawn decorations can also be done at this time.
In August, you should:
Trim trees
Trim plants
Trim weeds that are growing from between the concrete foundation or from sidewalks
Use summer fertilizer
Decide where to plant flowers and other plants for spring
Aerate if necessary
Weed the lawn
Water the lawn when it needs it
Mow the lawn
Use pre emergent herbicide if you have crabgrass
August is the time for planning. You will have to make decisions as to how you want your lawn to look once fall arrives. You should map out your plants and flowers, make sure you have plenty of mulch on hand, and make sure your grass is healthy.
During the fall season, you will no longer have to mow your lawn. While this is will save you time, you will still have to look after it. Remove thatch during the end of summer before you put pre emergent herbicide on your lawn.
If your lawn has patches of grass that are burnt or discolored, you may need to remove them and put down seed in order to grow healthy grass before the winter time as this grass could become thatch if is not taken care of. Thatch can cost you a lot of time if you are not reducing the conditions where it can thrive.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn care
Lawn Tasks - March to May!
lawn
Spring.
March
Usually in March, the rain will begin and continue until May or June. If you live in a region that experiences a lot of rain, this may not seem much different from how it normally is.
Use the rain to your advantage. It will cause the ground to soften, which means you can begin your spring lawn care regimen. During the month of March, you can aerate your soil, add nutrients, and remove that awful thatch.
If you have drainage problems, now is the time to take action.
Tasks that should be completed in March include:
Aerating soil
Removing thatch
Seeding the lawn
Creating a drainage system
Cleaning out existing drainage system
Checking out trees, plants, and shrubs
Planting in late March for some plants and flowers
Stocking up on lawn care supplies for upcoming season
During the month of March, you may become frustrated because of the limited amount of time you will have to spend in your yard due to the rain.
But many of these tasks can be completed in a day or two. Try to get out there when you can so that you do not fall behind and miss the beginning of the new growing season.
If you want, you can buy your plants early or choose which flowers you will want to plant. This will also help you stay on schedule.
March can be a strange month. While you should expect a lot of rain, you will also see sunshine. Although it will still be cold, you can get a lot of work accomplished if you budget your time correctly.
April
April will being the new planting season. You should be thinking about which plants and flowers you want to add to your lawn as well as which flowers and plants will be blooming soon.
While there will still be rain, you should be prepping your soil and getting ready for your war with the weeds.
In April, you should complete the following tasks:
Soil Solarization
Raking
Prepare or buy mulch
Aeration
Liming
Check flower beds to see if flowers are still healthy
Fertilizing the lawn and soil for plants and flowers
Make sure trees are healthy
Plant seedlings (follow directions carefully after purchasing them)
Inspect lawn for insect nests and other issues
Look for new weeds and pull them
Look at lawn decorations
Drainage issues
Soil testing
Rake up left over leaves from the fall
This is an exciting time because you will be planting new flowers and plants for the coming season. You will be laying the ground work which will hopefully yield a healthy lawn that will be colorful and vibrant for late spring to early autumn months.
Taking care of a lawn truly is an ongoing process. By breaking up tasks into monthly tasks, you will be able to tackle them much easier than if you left them all to the last minute.
After April, you will begin to see new growth and your months of hard work will begin to pay off. Now you will have to help your new flowers and plants grow so that they will continue to bloom all season long. This will be done by removing weeds, making sure the soil is full of nutrients, and by watering each day.
May
May is a mix of warm breezes and rain (does it ever stop?). You will begin to notice your flowers will begin to bloom. This is a beautiful site. But when flowers begin to bloom, weeds will also begin to show their ugly leaves. It is time to combat the weeds, and begin grass maintenance.
In May, you should:
Tune up your lawn mower
Mow your lawn (if the ground is dry enough)
Fertilize the lawn
Overseed the lawn in areas where it needs it
Rent a lawn roller to get out bumps
Trim your shrubs and hedges back
Plant trees and shrubs
Weed areas that are showing growth
The end of May will be warmer than the beginning of May which will be helpful when you are out there on the weekend tending to your lawn. You should also at this time take a look at the older trees on your property. If they need their branches trimmed or removed, you should have a landscaper drop by and take care of the issue.
The month if May is also a great time to clean out your shed, basement, or garage. Throw away old fertilizer, weed killers, and other chemicals. You should also get rid of old equipment and other items that you no longer need or that no longer work. Once these areas have been cleaned, you should find ways to keep them organized. You should also replenish any equipment and other lawn care items that you may need for the upcoming months.
These items include:
Summer fertilizer
Insect repellents
Weed remover
Mulch
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn
Spring.
March
Usually in March, the rain will begin and continue until May or June. If you live in a region that experiences a lot of rain, this may not seem much different from how it normally is.
Use the rain to your advantage. It will cause the ground to soften, which means you can begin your spring lawn care regimen. During the month of March, you can aerate your soil, add nutrients, and remove that awful thatch.
If you have drainage problems, now is the time to take action.
Tasks that should be completed in March include:
Aerating soil
Removing thatch
Seeding the lawn
Creating a drainage system
Cleaning out existing drainage system
Checking out trees, plants, and shrubs
Planting in late March for some plants and flowers
Stocking up on lawn care supplies for upcoming season
During the month of March, you may become frustrated because of the limited amount of time you will have to spend in your yard due to the rain.
But many of these tasks can be completed in a day or two. Try to get out there when you can so that you do not fall behind and miss the beginning of the new growing season.
If you want, you can buy your plants early or choose which flowers you will want to plant. This will also help you stay on schedule.
March can be a strange month. While you should expect a lot of rain, you will also see sunshine. Although it will still be cold, you can get a lot of work accomplished if you budget your time correctly.
April
April will being the new planting season. You should be thinking about which plants and flowers you want to add to your lawn as well as which flowers and plants will be blooming soon.
While there will still be rain, you should be prepping your soil and getting ready for your war with the weeds.
In April, you should complete the following tasks:
Soil Solarization
Raking
Prepare or buy mulch
Aeration
Liming
Check flower beds to see if flowers are still healthy
Fertilizing the lawn and soil for plants and flowers
Make sure trees are healthy
Plant seedlings (follow directions carefully after purchasing them)
Inspect lawn for insect nests and other issues
Look for new weeds and pull them
Look at lawn decorations
Drainage issues
Soil testing
Rake up left over leaves from the fall
This is an exciting time because you will be planting new flowers and plants for the coming season. You will be laying the ground work which will hopefully yield a healthy lawn that will be colorful and vibrant for late spring to early autumn months.
Taking care of a lawn truly is an ongoing process. By breaking up tasks into monthly tasks, you will be able to tackle them much easier than if you left them all to the last minute.
After April, you will begin to see new growth and your months of hard work will begin to pay off. Now you will have to help your new flowers and plants grow so that they will continue to bloom all season long. This will be done by removing weeds, making sure the soil is full of nutrients, and by watering each day.
May
May is a mix of warm breezes and rain (does it ever stop?). You will begin to notice your flowers will begin to bloom. This is a beautiful site. But when flowers begin to bloom, weeds will also begin to show their ugly leaves. It is time to combat the weeds, and begin grass maintenance.
In May, you should:
Tune up your lawn mower
Mow your lawn (if the ground is dry enough)
Fertilize the lawn
Overseed the lawn in areas where it needs it
Rent a lawn roller to get out bumps
Trim your shrubs and hedges back
Plant trees and shrubs
Weed areas that are showing growth
The end of May will be warmer than the beginning of May which will be helpful when you are out there on the weekend tending to your lawn. You should also at this time take a look at the older trees on your property. If they need their branches trimmed or removed, you should have a landscaper drop by and take care of the issue.
The month if May is also a great time to clean out your shed, basement, or garage. Throw away old fertilizer, weed killers, and other chemicals. You should also get rid of old equipment and other items that you no longer need or that no longer work. Once these areas have been cleaned, you should find ways to keep them organized. You should also replenish any equipment and other lawn care items that you may need for the upcoming months.
These items include:
Summer fertilizer
Insect repellents
Weed remover
Mulch
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn
Lawn Tasks - January and February!
lawn
Winter.
January.
After the New Year, your life will return to normal. The holiday season is officially over and you will be anticipating the arrival of spring. Your lawn may not look like much. If you live in a region that sees a lot of snow, you may have been looking at a white blanket for weeks. Your grass may appear lifeless and your plants have long since bloomed in the sunshine.
But there is work to be done. You will have to go outside at least once a week and walk through your property and check for problems that you will have to take care of once the warmer months have arrived.
In January, you should be concerned with damage to your lawn sculptures and other decorative items.
When inspecting these items, you should:
Check for cracks in the foundation of concrete bird baths, sculptures, and statues
Look for signs of discoloration that could be the early signs of rust.
Check for water and snow damage
Check for broken pieces
Remove any decorative items that cannot be fixed
If possible, you should wrap up these items in order to protect them from the snow and water. If you can move them to a safer place, that would also help. Lawn decorations can be expensive and in many cases, one of a kind. Protecting these items should be high on your list when getting ready for winter and also during the winter season.
February
In February, it is cold and the snow may still fall, but there may be more rain than in previous months. This is a good time to check your plants, shrubs, and grass for damage that you may have to correct in the spring. You should look for the following:
Grass:
Discoloration of grass
Thatch
Bald spots
Thinning
Sod issues
While there is little that can be done until the ground becomes less frozen, you should plan to aerate the soil as soon as possible. If you have thatch, be sure that you have to the equipment to remove it. If you notice pieces of sod are missing, you will have to replace it as soon as the weather warms up.
Trees:
Discoloration of bark
Bent branches
Holes in trunk
If any of your trees seem unhealthy, you should mark them so that you can see if they improve over the next few months. If you notice any branches that are bent, you can leave them alone as long as they cannot fall and harm any part of your home or other people. If they could harm your property, they should be removed as soon as possible.
Plants:
Roots
Color of leaves
Stance
Most plants should be just fine in cold weather. Make sure they are standing tall and are not being weighed down by snow, wind, and rain.
Shrubs:
Roots
Color of leaves
Shrubs should also be fine during this time. Take the same corrective actions as you would for plants if you see that the shrub is being weighed down.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn
Winter.
January.
After the New Year, your life will return to normal. The holiday season is officially over and you will be anticipating the arrival of spring. Your lawn may not look like much. If you live in a region that sees a lot of snow, you may have been looking at a white blanket for weeks. Your grass may appear lifeless and your plants have long since bloomed in the sunshine.
But there is work to be done. You will have to go outside at least once a week and walk through your property and check for problems that you will have to take care of once the warmer months have arrived.
In January, you should be concerned with damage to your lawn sculptures and other decorative items.
When inspecting these items, you should:
Check for cracks in the foundation of concrete bird baths, sculptures, and statues
Look for signs of discoloration that could be the early signs of rust.
Check for water and snow damage
Check for broken pieces
Remove any decorative items that cannot be fixed
If possible, you should wrap up these items in order to protect them from the snow and water. If you can move them to a safer place, that would also help. Lawn decorations can be expensive and in many cases, one of a kind. Protecting these items should be high on your list when getting ready for winter and also during the winter season.
February
In February, it is cold and the snow may still fall, but there may be more rain than in previous months. This is a good time to check your plants, shrubs, and grass for damage that you may have to correct in the spring. You should look for the following:
Grass:
Discoloration of grass
Thatch
Bald spots
Thinning
Sod issues
While there is little that can be done until the ground becomes less frozen, you should plan to aerate the soil as soon as possible. If you have thatch, be sure that you have to the equipment to remove it. If you notice pieces of sod are missing, you will have to replace it as soon as the weather warms up.
Trees:
Discoloration of bark
Bent branches
Holes in trunk
If any of your trees seem unhealthy, you should mark them so that you can see if they improve over the next few months. If you notice any branches that are bent, you can leave them alone as long as they cannot fall and harm any part of your home or other people. If they could harm your property, they should be removed as soon as possible.
Plants:
Roots
Color of leaves
Stance
Most plants should be just fine in cold weather. Make sure they are standing tall and are not being weighed down by snow, wind, and rain.
Shrubs:
Roots
Color of leaves
Shrubs should also be fine during this time. Take the same corrective actions as you would for plants if you see that the shrub is being weighed down.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn
Thursday, November 30, 2006
Lawn Tasks - September to December!
Lawn
September.
September is the time when you will be planting fall plants and also getting your lawn ready for the wintertime. You should mow your lawn a few more times and water it to make sure that it is healthy. You may experience more rain, so watering should become less frequent.
You will also experience more wind which will start knocking the leaves from the trees.
In September, you should:
Remove old mulch and replace it with new mulch
Mow the lawn
Weed the lawn
Water the lawn
Rake the lawn
Make sure drainage systems are working properly
Store away the lawn mower at the end of the month
Repair any problems in the lawn mower, mulching machine, or tiller
Tidy up the shed and garage by throwing away unnecessary items
Get ready to plant fall flowers and plants
Use fall fertilizer for cooler season grass
Till the soil in your spring plant and flower beds
Turn Perennial plants into mulch
Plant Annual plants and flowers
September can turn cold quickly, so it is best to get the hardest jobs done quickly at the beginning of the month. This is the season to make sure that you have everything you will need for the winter months.
Items you may need:
Winter fertilizer
String and small posts for trees
Covers for lawn structures
Rakes, gloves, mulching machine
Mulch
October
In October, the leaves will begin to fall in large numbers. If you like to make your own mulch, then you will be in luck during this time of year. Rent or buy a small mulching machine and you will be all set. Making mulch is very easy and will save you money.
In October, you should:
Rake up leaves
Turn leaves into mulch
Spread mulch all over the lawn
Secure small trees and shrubs with posts and string
Trim plants and shrubs
Check for drainage problems
Make sure fall plants and flowers are growing properly
Add fertilizer where necessary
Remove fruit from the bottom of any fruit trees and add to mulch or compost pile
Clean up any leaf piles laying around as animals will make nests out of them
October can be a beautiful time of year with the many colors and plants that are blooming. You will still have to take care of them as you would your Perennial plants, but you will be able to let them grow without having to worry too much about weeds or insects.
When designing your fall lawn, you should keep in mind that you will only be able to fix minor grass problems as the ground will become harder as the cold weather settles in. If you have not aerated, you should now before it is too late.
Enjoy your fall lawn now because you will not have too long before it will be gone. While a winter lawn is also beautiful, it is just not the same.
November
With the leaves almost gone, you will not have to rake as much. November is the time when your lawn care will begin to slow down. You will not have as much to do and you will be able to relax and enjoy what you have created.
In November, you should:
Clean up any clutter on your lawn
Secure all lawn equipment for the wintertime in a shed or garage
If you still need to repair any lawn equipment, you should do so now
Check on smaller shrubs to see if they will need reinforcement
Dig up bulbs and other seeds to plant for the springtime
Lay down mulch if necessary
This is a short list, but the items on it are important. You should complete them because they will help during the rest of the year.
December
During December, you may not want to have to much do with your lawn. This is understandable. But you should go outside and check on plants that are small and may need your help to make it to the springtime.
In December, you should:
Assess all remaining plants, trees, shrubs, and flowers
Reinforce any plants that are falling over
Make sure that plants are safe against the snow
Check on tree branches
Take a good look at the grass
Drainage
Since water and ice can cause cracking in your lawn structures, you should keep an eye on those as well. The winter may look peaceful, but in reality, your lawn still needs your care.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Lawn
September.
September is the time when you will be planting fall plants and also getting your lawn ready for the wintertime. You should mow your lawn a few more times and water it to make sure that it is healthy. You may experience more rain, so watering should become less frequent.
You will also experience more wind which will start knocking the leaves from the trees.
In September, you should:
Remove old mulch and replace it with new mulch
Mow the lawn
Weed the lawn
Water the lawn
Rake the lawn
Make sure drainage systems are working properly
Store away the lawn mower at the end of the month
Repair any problems in the lawn mower, mulching machine, or tiller
Tidy up the shed and garage by throwing away unnecessary items
Get ready to plant fall flowers and plants
Use fall fertilizer for cooler season grass
Till the soil in your spring plant and flower beds
Turn Perennial plants into mulch
Plant Annual plants and flowers
September can turn cold quickly, so it is best to get the hardest jobs done quickly at the beginning of the month. This is the season to make sure that you have everything you will need for the winter months.
Items you may need:
Winter fertilizer
String and small posts for trees
Covers for lawn structures
Rakes, gloves, mulching machine
Mulch
October
In October, the leaves will begin to fall in large numbers. If you like to make your own mulch, then you will be in luck during this time of year. Rent or buy a small mulching machine and you will be all set. Making mulch is very easy and will save you money.
In October, you should:
Rake up leaves
Turn leaves into mulch
Spread mulch all over the lawn
Secure small trees and shrubs with posts and string
Trim plants and shrubs
Check for drainage problems
Make sure fall plants and flowers are growing properly
Add fertilizer where necessary
Remove fruit from the bottom of any fruit trees and add to mulch or compost pile
Clean up any leaf piles laying around as animals will make nests out of them
October can be a beautiful time of year with the many colors and plants that are blooming. You will still have to take care of them as you would your Perennial plants, but you will be able to let them grow without having to worry too much about weeds or insects.
When designing your fall lawn, you should keep in mind that you will only be able to fix minor grass problems as the ground will become harder as the cold weather settles in. If you have not aerated, you should now before it is too late.
Enjoy your fall lawn now because you will not have too long before it will be gone. While a winter lawn is also beautiful, it is just not the same.
November
With the leaves almost gone, you will not have to rake as much. November is the time when your lawn care will begin to slow down. You will not have as much to do and you will be able to relax and enjoy what you have created.
In November, you should:
Clean up any clutter on your lawn
Secure all lawn equipment for the wintertime in a shed or garage
If you still need to repair any lawn equipment, you should do so now
Check on smaller shrubs to see if they will need reinforcement
Dig up bulbs and other seeds to plant for the springtime
Lay down mulch if necessary
This is a short list, but the items on it are important. You should complete them because they will help during the rest of the year.
December
During December, you may not want to have to much do with your lawn. This is understandable. But you should go outside and check on plants that are small and may need your help to make it to the springtime.
In December, you should:
Assess all remaining plants, trees, shrubs, and flowers
Reinforce any plants that are falling over
Make sure that plants are safe against the snow
Check on tree branches
Take a good look at the grass
Drainage
Since water and ice can cause cracking in your lawn structures, you should keep an eye on those as well. The winter may look peaceful, but in reality, your lawn still needs your care.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Lawn
Lawn Pesticides - How to Reduce their Use!
Lawn
Correct Mowing and Watering Technique
An excellent way to reduce the need for pesticides - and we're all "green" (forgive the pun) nowadays, is to grow the Lawn Taller than you would expect. Tall grass provides shade! That is the Secret!
* Shade cuts down weed germination, such as Crabgrass!
* Tall grass has larger roots, which increases the uptake of nutrients and moisture.
* Tall grass is better able to withstand Summer heat.
* Correct mowing and the use of natural fertilizers can, by themselves keep a Lawn Healthy and thick.
So, cut down the use of pesticides and let the grass grow.
* Set your Mower Blades to at least 3 inches for regular mowing.
* Four times a year reduce this to 2 inches - generally in the Spring and Autumn. This will prevent and remove Fungus.
* Always leave grass clippings on the Lawn. This will provide a natural mulch which further reduces the need for fertilizer.
Pesticides are in fact harmful to Human Health. They can result in decomposition and lead to thatch, apart from the dangers to children and pets.
* When mowing ensure that the Mower blade is sharp.
* Mow when the Sun is at its lowest. This is usually in the early morning or more preferably in the cool of the evening.
* Make sure the grass is dry.
Mowing with a dull Mower blade will tear the grass roots, turning the grass brown. Mowing when the grass is wet will have the same effect and leave the grass more susceptible to disease.
Correct Watering
In these days of Water Conservation it is important to water only when needed. This should be every few days as required, not every day. Try to water later in the evening or early morning. Water deeply, but there is no need to water if there has been recent rainfall. Only water lightly if a fertilizer has just been applied.
Watering promotes growth during the Summer and ensures a thicker Lawn which will reduce pest problems.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Lawn
Correct Mowing and Watering Technique
An excellent way to reduce the need for pesticides - and we're all "green" (forgive the pun) nowadays, is to grow the Lawn Taller than you would expect. Tall grass provides shade! That is the Secret!
* Shade cuts down weed germination, such as Crabgrass!
* Tall grass has larger roots, which increases the uptake of nutrients and moisture.
* Tall grass is better able to withstand Summer heat.
* Correct mowing and the use of natural fertilizers can, by themselves keep a Lawn Healthy and thick.
So, cut down the use of pesticides and let the grass grow.
* Set your Mower Blades to at least 3 inches for regular mowing.
* Four times a year reduce this to 2 inches - generally in the Spring and Autumn. This will prevent and remove Fungus.
* Always leave grass clippings on the Lawn. This will provide a natural mulch which further reduces the need for fertilizer.
Pesticides are in fact harmful to Human Health. They can result in decomposition and lead to thatch, apart from the dangers to children and pets.
* When mowing ensure that the Mower blade is sharp.
* Mow when the Sun is at its lowest. This is usually in the early morning or more preferably in the cool of the evening.
* Make sure the grass is dry.
Mowing with a dull Mower blade will tear the grass roots, turning the grass brown. Mowing when the grass is wet will have the same effect and leave the grass more susceptible to disease.
Correct Watering
In these days of Water Conservation it is important to water only when needed. This should be every few days as required, not every day. Try to water later in the evening or early morning. Water deeply, but there is no need to water if there has been recent rainfall. Only water lightly if a fertilizer has just been applied.
Watering promotes growth during the Summer and ensures a thicker Lawn which will reduce pest problems.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Lawn
God's Humorous Views on Lawn Care!
Lawn
Imagine the conversation The Creator might have had with St. Francis on the subject of lawns:
God: Hey St. Francis, you know all about gardens and nature. What in the world is going on down there in the Midwest? What happened to the dandelions, violets, thistle and stuff I started eons ago? I had a perfect "no maintenance" garden plan. Those plants grow in any type of soil, withstand drought and multiply with abandon. The nectar from the long lasting blossoms attracts butterflies, honey bees and flocks of songbirds. I expected to see a vast garden of colors by now. But all I see are these green rectangles.
St. Francis: It's the tribes that settled there, Lord. The Suburbanites. They started calling your flowers "weeds" and went to great lengths to kill them and replace them with grass.
God: Grass? But it's so boring. It's not colorful. It doesn't attract butterflies, birds and bees, only grubs and sod worms. It's temperamental with temperatures. Do these Suburbanites really want all that grass growing there?
St. Francis: Apparently so, Lord. They go to great pains to grow it and keep it green. They begin each spring by fertilizing grass and poisoning any other plant that crops up in the lawn.
God: The spring rains and warm weather probably make grass grow really fast. That must make the Suburbanites happy.
St. Francis: Apparently not, Lord. As soon as it grows a little, they cut it... sometimes twice a week.
God: They cut it? Do they then bail it like hay?
St. Francis: Not exactly, Lord. Most of them rake it up and put it in bags.
God: They bag it? Why? Is it a cash crop? Do they sell it?
St. Francis: No Sir. Just the opposite. They pay to throw it away.
God: Now let me get this straight. They fertilize grass so when it does grow, they cut it off and pay to throw it away?
St. Francis: Yes, Sir.
God: These Suburbanites must be relieved in the summer when we cut back on the rain and turn up the heat. That surely slows the growth and saves them a lot of work.
St. Francis: You are not going to believe this Lord. When the grass stops growing so fast, they drag out hoses and pay more money to water it so they can continue to mow it and pay to get rid of it.
God: What nonsense. At least they kept some of the trees. That was a sheer stroke of genius, if I do say so myself. The trees grow leaves in the spring to provide beauty and shade in the summer. In the autumn they fall to the ground and form a natural blanket to keep moisture in the soil and protect the trees and bushes. Plus, as they rot, the leaves form compost to enhance the soil. It's a natural circle of life.
St. Francis: You better sit down, Lord. The Suburbanites have drawn a new circle. As soon as the leaves fall, they rake them into great piles and pay to have them hauled away.
God: No. What do they do to protect the shrub and tree roots in the winter and to keep the soil moist and loose?
St. Francis: After throwing away the leaves, they go out and buy something which they call mulch. The haul it home and spread it around in place of the leaves.
God: And where do they get this mulch?
St. Francis: They cut down trees and grind them up to make the mulch.
God: Enough. I don't want to think about this anymore. Sister Catherine, you're in charge of the arts. What movie have you scheduled for us tonight?
Sister Catherine: "Dumb and Dumber", Lord. It's a real stupid movie about.....
God: Never mind, I think I just heard the whole story from St. Francis.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Lawn
Imagine the conversation The Creator might have had with St. Francis on the subject of lawns:
God: Hey St. Francis, you know all about gardens and nature. What in the world is going on down there in the Midwest? What happened to the dandelions, violets, thistle and stuff I started eons ago? I had a perfect "no maintenance" garden plan. Those plants grow in any type of soil, withstand drought and multiply with abandon. The nectar from the long lasting blossoms attracts butterflies, honey bees and flocks of songbirds. I expected to see a vast garden of colors by now. But all I see are these green rectangles.
St. Francis: It's the tribes that settled there, Lord. The Suburbanites. They started calling your flowers "weeds" and went to great lengths to kill them and replace them with grass.
God: Grass? But it's so boring. It's not colorful. It doesn't attract butterflies, birds and bees, only grubs and sod worms. It's temperamental with temperatures. Do these Suburbanites really want all that grass growing there?
St. Francis: Apparently so, Lord. They go to great pains to grow it and keep it green. They begin each spring by fertilizing grass and poisoning any other plant that crops up in the lawn.
God: The spring rains and warm weather probably make grass grow really fast. That must make the Suburbanites happy.
St. Francis: Apparently not, Lord. As soon as it grows a little, they cut it... sometimes twice a week.
God: They cut it? Do they then bail it like hay?
St. Francis: Not exactly, Lord. Most of them rake it up and put it in bags.
God: They bag it? Why? Is it a cash crop? Do they sell it?
St. Francis: No Sir. Just the opposite. They pay to throw it away.
God: Now let me get this straight. They fertilize grass so when it does grow, they cut it off and pay to throw it away?
St. Francis: Yes, Sir.
God: These Suburbanites must be relieved in the summer when we cut back on the rain and turn up the heat. That surely slows the growth and saves them a lot of work.
St. Francis: You are not going to believe this Lord. When the grass stops growing so fast, they drag out hoses and pay more money to water it so they can continue to mow it and pay to get rid of it.
God: What nonsense. At least they kept some of the trees. That was a sheer stroke of genius, if I do say so myself. The trees grow leaves in the spring to provide beauty and shade in the summer. In the autumn they fall to the ground and form a natural blanket to keep moisture in the soil and protect the trees and bushes. Plus, as they rot, the leaves form compost to enhance the soil. It's a natural circle of life.
St. Francis: You better sit down, Lord. The Suburbanites have drawn a new circle. As soon as the leaves fall, they rake them into great piles and pay to have them hauled away.
God: No. What do they do to protect the shrub and tree roots in the winter and to keep the soil moist and loose?
St. Francis: After throwing away the leaves, they go out and buy something which they call mulch. The haul it home and spread it around in place of the leaves.
God: And where do they get this mulch?
St. Francis: They cut down trees and grind them up to make the mulch.
God: Enough. I don't want to think about this anymore. Sister Catherine, you're in charge of the arts. What movie have you scheduled for us tonight?
Sister Catherine: "Dumb and Dumber", Lord. It's a real stupid movie about.....
God: Never mind, I think I just heard the whole story from St. Francis.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Lawn
Wednesday, November 29, 2006
Lawn Repair and Renovation!
lawn
When repairing or renovating lawns, specialized equipment can increase effectiveness and make the job much easier. Match equipment to the task that needs to be done for best results.
Aerating machines that actually pull out soil cores are suggested for use on lawns.
As mentioned already, core aerification is an important and highly recommended practice for many lawns. This process is useful to help reduce soil compaction and thatch, improve surface drainage, and improve conditions prior to overseeding. Core aerifiers insert hollow tines into the lawn and pull out plugs of soil. Size of cores removed will depend on the machine used, soil moisture, and type of soil. Core spacing also varies with the specific machine being used. Machines can be rented or aerifying services are available for hire.
Spikers are similar to core aerifiers in that they make holes in the soil. However, they use solid tines, and thus, do not remove cores.
Vertical mowers have rotating blades arranged vertically that can cut into turf and soil. These machines can be used to remove thatch (dethatching). Turfgrass rooting in the thatch is typically torn out, so reseeding is suggested afterwards. Vertical mowers can also roughen the soil prior to overseeding areas.
Slit-seeders are useful for lawn renovation projects. Slit-seeders combine vertical mowing with seeding. As the machine goes across the lawn, it opens the soil and deposits seed directly into the soil opening. Most slit-seeders have a roller that helps firm the soil after seeding. Seed is metered at a predetermined rate; it's suggested to apply half the desired seeding rate in one direction and the other half on a second pass perpendicular to the first.
Silt-seeding equipment is useful for lawn renovation.
Since the seed is placed in direct contact with the soil, seeding success is usually high when using slit-seeders. In addition, existing grass and debris does not need to be completely removed prior to the overseeding process. Timing should be the same as for conventional lawn seeding, which ideally would be late August into early September. Many rental agencies carry slit-seeders or many lawn and landscape services can do it for hire.
Determining the cause of the lawn decline is the first step in the lawn renovation process. Many lawn problems originate from poor soil conditions. Heavy clay, compacted soils, and poorly drained soils may be the reason a lawn is doing poorly. These situations can be corrected during renovation. On the other hand, many lawn problems tend to be due to pests, weather conditions, or poor lawn care practices. Perhaps improved mowing, fertilizing, and watering may be all that's required to achieve acceptable lawn quality.
Typical Lawn Care Mistakes and Problems They Can Create.
Mowing Too Short.
Crabgrass.
Diseases.
Frequent, Light Watering.
Overwatering Thatch.
Overfertilizing.
Underfertilizing.
Weeds.
Once the problem has been identified, the renovation process may begin. Think of renovation as fitting one of three levels: overseeding with little additional work; significant work, but allowing existing grass to remain; or completely removing the existing lawn and starting over.
The decision of which level to choose depends on how bad the lawn looks and what caused the problem. For example, if the lawn is just a little thin, overseeding with a quality lawn seed in late August or early September may be the answer. Use of a slit-seeder is an ideal way to overseed lawns. Seed may also be broadcast over thin lawn areas, but there needs to be good soil to seed contact. Dethatchers or vertical mowers can also be used to tear out excess debris prior to overseeding. In addition, slit-seeding could also be done directly through grass and/or weeds killed with the nonselective herbicide glyphosate. All of these types of overseeding procedures do not require additional soil modification.
When soil problems exist under a lawn, there are ways to address them without tearing up the lawn. As mentioned earlier, core aerifying is suggested for problems such as thatch and soil compaction. Aerifying, overseeding, and slit-seeding (breaks up cores) may be an ideal level of renovation for many lawns.
Unfortunately, some lawn problems, such as soil problems of severe compaction, high clay levels, or poor drainage, may require starting over. Remove existing grass or rototill it. High populations of perennial weed species may require use of a nonselective herbicide, such as glyphosate. Thoroughly work the soil to a depth of six inches. Add amendments such as compost, rotted manure, organic topsoil, and peat. Follow proper selection and establishment procedures to get the new lawn off to a good start.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn
When repairing or renovating lawns, specialized equipment can increase effectiveness and make the job much easier. Match equipment to the task that needs to be done for best results.
Aerating machines that actually pull out soil cores are suggested for use on lawns.
As mentioned already, core aerification is an important and highly recommended practice for many lawns. This process is useful to help reduce soil compaction and thatch, improve surface drainage, and improve conditions prior to overseeding. Core aerifiers insert hollow tines into the lawn and pull out plugs of soil. Size of cores removed will depend on the machine used, soil moisture, and type of soil. Core spacing also varies with the specific machine being used. Machines can be rented or aerifying services are available for hire.
Spikers are similar to core aerifiers in that they make holes in the soil. However, they use solid tines, and thus, do not remove cores.
Vertical mowers have rotating blades arranged vertically that can cut into turf and soil. These machines can be used to remove thatch (dethatching). Turfgrass rooting in the thatch is typically torn out, so reseeding is suggested afterwards. Vertical mowers can also roughen the soil prior to overseeding areas.
Slit-seeders are useful for lawn renovation projects. Slit-seeders combine vertical mowing with seeding. As the machine goes across the lawn, it opens the soil and deposits seed directly into the soil opening. Most slit-seeders have a roller that helps firm the soil after seeding. Seed is metered at a predetermined rate; it's suggested to apply half the desired seeding rate in one direction and the other half on a second pass perpendicular to the first.
Silt-seeding equipment is useful for lawn renovation.
Since the seed is placed in direct contact with the soil, seeding success is usually high when using slit-seeders. In addition, existing grass and debris does not need to be completely removed prior to the overseeding process. Timing should be the same as for conventional lawn seeding, which ideally would be late August into early September. Many rental agencies carry slit-seeders or many lawn and landscape services can do it for hire.
Determining the cause of the lawn decline is the first step in the lawn renovation process. Many lawn problems originate from poor soil conditions. Heavy clay, compacted soils, and poorly drained soils may be the reason a lawn is doing poorly. These situations can be corrected during renovation. On the other hand, many lawn problems tend to be due to pests, weather conditions, or poor lawn care practices. Perhaps improved mowing, fertilizing, and watering may be all that's required to achieve acceptable lawn quality.
Typical Lawn Care Mistakes and Problems They Can Create.
Mowing Too Short.
Crabgrass.
Diseases.
Frequent, Light Watering.
Overwatering Thatch.
Overfertilizing.
Underfertilizing.
Weeds.
Once the problem has been identified, the renovation process may begin. Think of renovation as fitting one of three levels: overseeding with little additional work; significant work, but allowing existing grass to remain; or completely removing the existing lawn and starting over.
The decision of which level to choose depends on how bad the lawn looks and what caused the problem. For example, if the lawn is just a little thin, overseeding with a quality lawn seed in late August or early September may be the answer. Use of a slit-seeder is an ideal way to overseed lawns. Seed may also be broadcast over thin lawn areas, but there needs to be good soil to seed contact. Dethatchers or vertical mowers can also be used to tear out excess debris prior to overseeding. In addition, slit-seeding could also be done directly through grass and/or weeds killed with the nonselective herbicide glyphosate. All of these types of overseeding procedures do not require additional soil modification.
When soil problems exist under a lawn, there are ways to address them without tearing up the lawn. As mentioned earlier, core aerifying is suggested for problems such as thatch and soil compaction. Aerifying, overseeding, and slit-seeding (breaks up cores) may be an ideal level of renovation for many lawns.
Unfortunately, some lawn problems, such as soil problems of severe compaction, high clay levels, or poor drainage, may require starting over. Remove existing grass or rototill it. High populations of perennial weed species may require use of a nonselective herbicide, such as glyphosate. Thoroughly work the soil to a depth of six inches. Add amendments such as compost, rotted manure, organic topsoil, and peat. Follow proper selection and establishment procedures to get the new lawn off to a good start.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn
Tuesday, November 28, 2006
Thatch in Your Lawn and How to Handle it!
lawn
Thatch is a dense layer of living and dead organic matter on the soil surface.
Thatch in lawns is often misunderstood; both its cause and control. Some lawns have serious thatch problems while others do not. Thatch is a layer of living and dead organic matter that occurs between the green matter and the soil surface. Excessive thatch (over 1/2 inch thick) creates a favorable environment for pests and disease, an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots, and can interfere with some lawn care practices.
The primary component of thatch is turfgrass stems and roots. It accumulates as these plant parts buildup faster than they breakdown. Thatch problems are due to a combination of biological, cultural, and environmental factors. Cultural practices can have a big impact on thatch. For example, heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications or overwatering frequently contribute to thatch, because they cause the lawn to grow excessively fast. Avoid overfertilizing and overwatering. Despite popular belief, short clippings dropped on the lawn after mowing are not the cause of thatch buildup. Clippings are very high in water content and breakdown rapidly when returned to lawns after mowing, assuming lawns are mowed on a regular basis (not removing more than one-third of the leaf blade)
Environmental factors typically are another primary case of thatch. Conditions favoring thatch include heavy, wet soils; alkaline, or high pH soils; and soil compaction. All are commonly met.
As thatch levels accumulate to greater than 1/2 inch, lawn problems may begin, and the thatch needs to be controlled. Thatch may be torn out with a dethatcher or vertical mower, but will most likely return unless the cause is corrected. Mechanical dethatching is also very destructive to the lawn because roots are in thatch instead of soil, so plants tear out easily. Overseeding is usually required afterwards. For this reason, it's best to tear out thatch in late August for optimum reseeding timing.
Core aerating helps degrade thatch and also helps solve some of the causes of thatch.
Core aerification, followed by topdressing are two methods that will generally correct the reasons thatch is accumulating. Core aerifying machines will pull up small soil cores to the surface that are left there to act like topdressing. The holes created help solve problems such as compaction or poor drainage. Topdressing is simply adding a thin layer(1/8 to 1/4 inch) of compatible soil over the thatch, which adds microorganisms to help in breakdown.
Aerifying equipment may be rented or services are available to do it for hire. Aerifying is an excellent lawn practice with many benefits, as it helps solve soil problems that in turn leads to better root systems and healthier lawns. Aerify in spring or fall, making sure adequate moisture exists in the soil. Make two trips over the lawn, the second perpendicular to the first. An average of 15 to 20 aeration holes per square foot is suggested. Cores should remain on the surface and allowed to air dry. These cores act as topdressing that helps degrade thatch. Additional topdressing material could be added after core aerifying if desired.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn
Thatch is a dense layer of living and dead organic matter on the soil surface.
Thatch in lawns is often misunderstood; both its cause and control. Some lawns have serious thatch problems while others do not. Thatch is a layer of living and dead organic matter that occurs between the green matter and the soil surface. Excessive thatch (over 1/2 inch thick) creates a favorable environment for pests and disease, an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots, and can interfere with some lawn care practices.
The primary component of thatch is turfgrass stems and roots. It accumulates as these plant parts buildup faster than they breakdown. Thatch problems are due to a combination of biological, cultural, and environmental factors. Cultural practices can have a big impact on thatch. For example, heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications or overwatering frequently contribute to thatch, because they cause the lawn to grow excessively fast. Avoid overfertilizing and overwatering. Despite popular belief, short clippings dropped on the lawn after mowing are not the cause of thatch buildup. Clippings are very high in water content and breakdown rapidly when returned to lawns after mowing, assuming lawns are mowed on a regular basis (not removing more than one-third of the leaf blade)
Environmental factors typically are another primary case of thatch. Conditions favoring thatch include heavy, wet soils; alkaline, or high pH soils; and soil compaction. All are commonly met.
As thatch levels accumulate to greater than 1/2 inch, lawn problems may begin, and the thatch needs to be controlled. Thatch may be torn out with a dethatcher or vertical mower, but will most likely return unless the cause is corrected. Mechanical dethatching is also very destructive to the lawn because roots are in thatch instead of soil, so plants tear out easily. Overseeding is usually required afterwards. For this reason, it's best to tear out thatch in late August for optimum reseeding timing.
Core aerating helps degrade thatch and also helps solve some of the causes of thatch.
Core aerification, followed by topdressing are two methods that will generally correct the reasons thatch is accumulating. Core aerifying machines will pull up small soil cores to the surface that are left there to act like topdressing. The holes created help solve problems such as compaction or poor drainage. Topdressing is simply adding a thin layer(1/8 to 1/4 inch) of compatible soil over the thatch, which adds microorganisms to help in breakdown.
Aerifying equipment may be rented or services are available to do it for hire. Aerifying is an excellent lawn practice with many benefits, as it helps solve soil problems that in turn leads to better root systems and healthier lawns. Aerify in spring or fall, making sure adequate moisture exists in the soil. Make two trips over the lawn, the second perpendicular to the first. An average of 15 to 20 aeration holes per square foot is suggested. Cores should remain on the surface and allowed to air dry. These cores act as topdressing that helps degrade thatch. Additional topdressing material could be added after core aerifying if desired.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn
Proper Handling and Use of Pesticides on Your Lawn!
This Article deals with the problems involved in Using and Handling Pesticides.
Sometimes, even with good lawn care practices, weather conditions or other factors can cause pest problems to develop. Pesticides can help control many lawn pests. But pesticides have risks as well as benefits, and it's important to use them properly.
The chemicals we call pesticides include insecticides, herbicides, and fungicides. These products are designed to kill or control pest insects, weeds, and fungal diseases. Pesticides can be very effective. But don't be tempted to rely solely on pesticides as a quick-fix solution to any lawn problem. Serious, ongoing pest problems are often a sign that your lawn is not getting everything it needs. In other words, the pests may be a symptom of an underlying problem. You need to correct the underlying problem to reduce the chance that the pest will reappear.
All pesticides are toxic to some degree. This means they can pose some risk to you, to your children and pets, and to any wildlife that venture onto your lawn, especially if these chemicals are overused or carelessly applied. Pesticides can also kill earthworms and other beneficial organisms, disrupting the ecological balance of your lawn.
Use pesticides to minimize pests, not eradicate them. Eradication is often impossible and unnecessary. Be sure you have accurately identified the pest so you can choose the best pesticide for the job and use it most effectively. Obtain professional advice from your county extension agent or a local expert. Spot treat whenever possible. In most cases, it isn't necessary to treat the whole lawn with pesticides if the problem is confined to certain areas. Spraying more than necessary is wasteful and can be environmentally damaging.
Store pesticides out of children's reach in a locked cabinet or garden shed. When Spraying, protect your skin, your eyes and your lungs. Wear gloves, long sleeves, long pants, eye protection and a respirator. Wash this clothing separately before using it again. Read the entire label and follow its instructions as well as any local and state regulations. Keep children and pets away from pesticides, and make sure no one goes on a treated lawn for at least the time prescribed by the pesticide label.
If you have questions about a pesticide, call EPA's tollfree National Pesticide Telecommunications Network (1-800-858-7378). For general information on minimizing pesticide risks, call or write EPA for a free copy of the Citizen's Guide to Pesticides. The number to call is 703-305-5017; the address is: EPA, Office of Pesticide Programs, Field Operations Division,H7506C, 401M Street, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20460.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
Sometimes, even with good lawn care practices, weather conditions or other factors can cause pest problems to develop. Pesticides can help control many lawn pests. But pesticides have risks as well as benefits, and it's important to use them properly.
The chemicals we call pesticides include insecticides, herbicides, and fungicides. These products are designed to kill or control pest insects, weeds, and fungal diseases. Pesticides can be very effective. But don't be tempted to rely solely on pesticides as a quick-fix solution to any lawn problem. Serious, ongoing pest problems are often a sign that your lawn is not getting everything it needs. In other words, the pests may be a symptom of an underlying problem. You need to correct the underlying problem to reduce the chance that the pest will reappear.
All pesticides are toxic to some degree. This means they can pose some risk to you, to your children and pets, and to any wildlife that venture onto your lawn, especially if these chemicals are overused or carelessly applied. Pesticides can also kill earthworms and other beneficial organisms, disrupting the ecological balance of your lawn.
Use pesticides to minimize pests, not eradicate them. Eradication is often impossible and unnecessary. Be sure you have accurately identified the pest so you can choose the best pesticide for the job and use it most effectively. Obtain professional advice from your county extension agent or a local expert. Spot treat whenever possible. In most cases, it isn't necessary to treat the whole lawn with pesticides if the problem is confined to certain areas. Spraying more than necessary is wasteful and can be environmentally damaging.
Store pesticides out of children's reach in a locked cabinet or garden shed. When Spraying, protect your skin, your eyes and your lungs. Wear gloves, long sleeves, long pants, eye protection and a respirator. Wash this clothing separately before using it again. Read the entire label and follow its instructions as well as any local and state regulations. Keep children and pets away from pesticides, and make sure no one goes on a treated lawn for at least the time prescribed by the pesticide label.
If you have questions about a pesticide, call EPA's tollfree National Pesticide Telecommunications Network (1-800-858-7378). For general information on minimizing pesticide risks, call or write EPA for a free copy of the Citizen's Guide to Pesticides. The number to call is 703-305-5017; the address is: EPA, Office of Pesticide Programs, Field Operations Division,H7506C, 401M Street, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20460.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
Monday, November 27, 2006
Lawn Watering Secrets!
Many people are not sure when to water their lawn. But don't wait until it turns brown. Inadequate watering puts your lawn under severe stress, which increases its susceptibility to insects and disease. Instead, develop a regimen for regular watering.
Water before the heat of the day, in the morning, even before sunrise. Watering early gives the water a chance to soak in rather than evaporating away. Plus, if there is some excess water that cannot be absorbed, it will have a chance to evaporate. Watering in the evening allows the water to soak in, but excess water will not evaporate and will foster fungal damage.
It is important to water deeply to encourage deep root growth. Light watering results in roots that stay near the surface, because that is where the water is. The shallow ground dries out quickly and so the lawn will need more frequent watering. The deeper soil remains moist longer and so the lawn is less likely to suffer during a drought. Shallow roots are also considered to be a likely cause of thatch. The soil should be moist about 3 to 4 inches deep.
Avoid over-watering; more people over-water than under-water. You may be one of the people who feel that if a little water is good, then a lot of water is even better. That is not true. The objective is to provide enough water so that the lawn does not thirst. Too much water can carry away nutrients, foster fungal spores and disease and stress the lawn.
Most lawns require one to two inches of water a week. The best way to water, especially to conserve water or if the lawn is on a slope, is to water for 5 minutes on and 15 minutes off, until the desired amount of water is delivered. This gives the water a chance to soak in and reduces runoff.
To determine if you are delivering the proper amount of water, place a few cans around on the lawn to catch the water. Use something that has straight sides so you get an accurate measurement. Tall cans can deflect water, so it is best to use short cans like tuna or cat food cans. Measure the water in the cans and multiply by the number of times a week you water. The result is the number of inches of water being delivered every week. Each can should yield about one to two inches per week depending on temperature, shade and type of grass. Sunny and warm locations will need more water. Remember to include any water from rain in your calculations.
To recap, the best way to water is in the morning, two to four times a week, in short intervals but enough to thoroughly soak the ground. A sprinkler system is the best way to deliver the water because it consistently covers the entire lawn and it can be programmed to deliver the water when and as frequently as needed.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Water before the heat of the day, in the morning, even before sunrise. Watering early gives the water a chance to soak in rather than evaporating away. Plus, if there is some excess water that cannot be absorbed, it will have a chance to evaporate. Watering in the evening allows the water to soak in, but excess water will not evaporate and will foster fungal damage.
It is important to water deeply to encourage deep root growth. Light watering results in roots that stay near the surface, because that is where the water is. The shallow ground dries out quickly and so the lawn will need more frequent watering. The deeper soil remains moist longer and so the lawn is less likely to suffer during a drought. Shallow roots are also considered to be a likely cause of thatch. The soil should be moist about 3 to 4 inches deep.
Avoid over-watering; more people over-water than under-water. You may be one of the people who feel that if a little water is good, then a lot of water is even better. That is not true. The objective is to provide enough water so that the lawn does not thirst. Too much water can carry away nutrients, foster fungal spores and disease and stress the lawn.
Most lawns require one to two inches of water a week. The best way to water, especially to conserve water or if the lawn is on a slope, is to water for 5 minutes on and 15 minutes off, until the desired amount of water is delivered. This gives the water a chance to soak in and reduces runoff.
To determine if you are delivering the proper amount of water, place a few cans around on the lawn to catch the water. Use something that has straight sides so you get an accurate measurement. Tall cans can deflect water, so it is best to use short cans like tuna or cat food cans. Measure the water in the cans and multiply by the number of times a week you water. The result is the number of inches of water being delivered every week. Each can should yield about one to two inches per week depending on temperature, shade and type of grass. Sunny and warm locations will need more water. Remember to include any water from rain in your calculations.
To recap, the best way to water is in the morning, two to four times a week, in short intervals but enough to thoroughly soak the ground. A sprinkler system is the best way to deliver the water because it consistently covers the entire lawn and it can be programmed to deliver the water when and as frequently as needed.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Insects and Animals on your Lawn - What to Do!
This is perhaps the part about lawn care that causes people to become ill or at least very upset. But let’s face it, the lawn is the great outdoors after all and there will be many creatures that occupy it. The number of insects, rodents, and other creatures will vary depending on where you live. But some common insects and others include:
spiders
bees
flies
mosquitoes
slugs
mice
worms
small snakes
ants
grasshoppers
chipmunks
squirrels
rabbits
deer
While you cannot destroy every living creature that inhabits your yard, you can help keep these creatures from destroying your plants and flowers. Many weed killers are also bug killers. Once you have determined which insects are eating you plants, you should be able to find a chemical solution to the problem.
You should approach some of these insects and small animals with caution, however. Certain species of spider are poisonous, while other insects can cause huge welts to form on your skin if you are not careful. And deer, well, let’s just hope you are never chased down the street by one! Your life flashing before you as you leap onto another person’s porch hoping the deer will keep on going.
Always year your gloves and do not touch snakes, small rodents, and other animals. You could run the risk of spending your Saturday afternoon in the emergency room instead of tending to your lawn.
In order to reduce the number of insects on your lawn, you should:
rake the leaves during the fall and spring and get rid of the piles immediately
clean gutters often
clean overhangs, porch railings, and lawn furniture
replenish mulch each year
mow the lawn when it needs it
These simple housekeeping tips will help you keep your lawn neat and clean while reducing the number of insects. Planting herbs such as rosemary and basil will help reduce the number of mosquitoes. Marigolds will help keep certain types of beetles away as well.
But some insects are good for your lawn. Help them stick around by planting Dogwood, butterfly weed, and Queen Anne’s lace. These plants will also attract butterflies and wild birds to your lawn.
While you cannot always pick your neighbours, you do have a little control over other types of pests. By planting flowers and plants strategically around your lawn, you will not only keep insects at bay, you will also enhance your lawn’s beauty.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
spiders
bees
flies
mosquitoes
slugs
mice
worms
small snakes
ants
grasshoppers
chipmunks
squirrels
rabbits
deer
While you cannot destroy every living creature that inhabits your yard, you can help keep these creatures from destroying your plants and flowers. Many weed killers are also bug killers. Once you have determined which insects are eating you plants, you should be able to find a chemical solution to the problem.
You should approach some of these insects and small animals with caution, however. Certain species of spider are poisonous, while other insects can cause huge welts to form on your skin if you are not careful. And deer, well, let’s just hope you are never chased down the street by one! Your life flashing before you as you leap onto another person’s porch hoping the deer will keep on going.
Always year your gloves and do not touch snakes, small rodents, and other animals. You could run the risk of spending your Saturday afternoon in the emergency room instead of tending to your lawn.
In order to reduce the number of insects on your lawn, you should:
rake the leaves during the fall and spring and get rid of the piles immediately
clean gutters often
clean overhangs, porch railings, and lawn furniture
replenish mulch each year
mow the lawn when it needs it
These simple housekeeping tips will help you keep your lawn neat and clean while reducing the number of insects. Planting herbs such as rosemary and basil will help reduce the number of mosquitoes. Marigolds will help keep certain types of beetles away as well.
But some insects are good for your lawn. Help them stick around by planting Dogwood, butterfly weed, and Queen Anne’s lace. These plants will also attract butterflies and wild birds to your lawn.
While you cannot always pick your neighbours, you do have a little control over other types of pests. By planting flowers and plants strategically around your lawn, you will not only keep insects at bay, you will also enhance your lawn’s beauty.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Sunday, November 26, 2006
How to Improve the Soil Quality of Your Lawn!
Good soil is the foundation of a healthy lawn. To grow well, your lawn needs soil with good texture, some key nutrients, and the right pH, or acidity/alkalinity balance. Start by checking the texture of your soil to see whether it's heavy with clay, light and sandy, or somewhere in between. Lawns grow best in soil with intermediate or "loamy" soils that have a mix of clay, silt, and sand.
Whatever soil type you have, you can probably improve it by periodically adding organic matter like compost, manure, or grass clippings. Organic matter helps to lighten a predominantly clay soil and it helps sandy soil retain water and nutrients. Also check to see if your soil is packed down from lots of use or heavy clay content. This makes it harder for air and water to penetrate, and for grass roots to grow.
To loosen compacted soil, some lawns may need to be aerated several times a year. This process involves pulling out plugs of soil to create air spaces, so water and nutrients can again penetrate to the grass roots.
Most lawns need to be fertilized every year, because they need more nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium than soils usually contain. These three elements are the primary ingredients found in most lawn fertilizers. It's important not to over-fertilize--you could do more harm to your lawn than good--and it's best to use a slow-release fertilizer that feeds the lawn slowly.
It's also important to check the soil's pH. Grass is best able to absorb nutrients in a slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Soil that is too acidic can be "sweetened" with lime; soil that's not acid enough can be made more sour by adding sulfur. Have your soil tested periodically to see whether it needs more organic matter or the pH needs adjusting.
Your local nursery should be able to tell you how to do this. These experts can also help you choose the right fertilizer, compost, and other "soil amendments," and they can advise you about aerating if your soil is compacted. If a professional service takes care of your lawn, make sure it takes these same steps to develop good soil. There's no getting around it: your lawn's health is only as good as the soil it grows in.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Whatever soil type you have, you can probably improve it by periodically adding organic matter like compost, manure, or grass clippings. Organic matter helps to lighten a predominantly clay soil and it helps sandy soil retain water and nutrients. Also check to see if your soil is packed down from lots of use or heavy clay content. This makes it harder for air and water to penetrate, and for grass roots to grow.
To loosen compacted soil, some lawns may need to be aerated several times a year. This process involves pulling out plugs of soil to create air spaces, so water and nutrients can again penetrate to the grass roots.
Most lawns need to be fertilized every year, because they need more nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium than soils usually contain. These three elements are the primary ingredients found in most lawn fertilizers. It's important not to over-fertilize--you could do more harm to your lawn than good--and it's best to use a slow-release fertilizer that feeds the lawn slowly.
It's also important to check the soil's pH. Grass is best able to absorb nutrients in a slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Soil that is too acidic can be "sweetened" with lime; soil that's not acid enough can be made more sour by adding sulfur. Have your soil tested periodically to see whether it needs more organic matter or the pH needs adjusting.
Your local nursery should be able to tell you how to do this. These experts can also help you choose the right fertilizer, compost, and other "soil amendments," and they can advise you about aerating if your soil is compacted. If a professional service takes care of your lawn, make sure it takes these same steps to develop good soil. There's no getting around it: your lawn's health is only as good as the soil it grows in.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Saturday, November 25, 2006
How to Deal with Crabgrass!
This Article deals with the perennial problem of Crabgrass and how to control it. Read and enjoy!
Crabgrass is a warm season grass that does its most vigorous growing in June and July. Crabgrass is killed by the first frost of the season. If you live in a warmer climate it may only go dormant or semi-dormant during the cooler months. The way to deal with crabgrass is to get it before it gets going.
What Crabgrass Likes
If you make a nice home for it in your yard, crabgrass will do very well. By knowing your enemy, you will know what not to do. Crabgrass likes warm weather and sunshine. It doesn't mind nutrient poor soils. It likes thin turf so there is plenty of sun shining down on it. Furthermore it likes short lawns, again so it can gather the suns warming rays. Crabgrass dies every year in all but the warmest climates but it leaves seed to carry on its legacy.
What You Can Do to Control Crabgrass
First, deny it sunshine. Mow your lawn to a height of 2 1/2 to 3 inches. Fertilize your lawn so that it fills in and keeps sunlight off the ground. Reseed thin patches in your lawn, again, to deny the seeds sunshine. These are all things you should be doing anyway. Keeping your lawn healthy is the most effective way to prevent crabgrass.
Next, as another preventative measure, use pre-emergent herbicides. Pre-emergent just means "kill it before it starts growing". Even in warmer climates, pre-emergents are beneficial. Most people will be applying the herbicides in early spring, but in subtropical zones, like Southern California, people will apply them in December and January. Note though that most varieties of these herbicides will also inhibit desirable seed growth. So time your reseeding so that the seeds are not stopped by the herbicide.
In the summer months, there isn't much you can do to fight crabgrass. It is a fast-growing, vigorous weed. The best plan is to prevent it from getting a hold in your lawn next year. Deal with crabgrass before it becomes a problem.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
Crabgrass is a warm season grass that does its most vigorous growing in June and July. Crabgrass is killed by the first frost of the season. If you live in a warmer climate it may only go dormant or semi-dormant during the cooler months. The way to deal with crabgrass is to get it before it gets going.
What Crabgrass Likes
If you make a nice home for it in your yard, crabgrass will do very well. By knowing your enemy, you will know what not to do. Crabgrass likes warm weather and sunshine. It doesn't mind nutrient poor soils. It likes thin turf so there is plenty of sun shining down on it. Furthermore it likes short lawns, again so it can gather the suns warming rays. Crabgrass dies every year in all but the warmest climates but it leaves seed to carry on its legacy.
What You Can Do to Control Crabgrass
First, deny it sunshine. Mow your lawn to a height of 2 1/2 to 3 inches. Fertilize your lawn so that it fills in and keeps sunlight off the ground. Reseed thin patches in your lawn, again, to deny the seeds sunshine. These are all things you should be doing anyway. Keeping your lawn healthy is the most effective way to prevent crabgrass.
Next, as another preventative measure, use pre-emergent herbicides. Pre-emergent just means "kill it before it starts growing". Even in warmer climates, pre-emergents are beneficial. Most people will be applying the herbicides in early spring, but in subtropical zones, like Southern California, people will apply them in December and January. Note though that most varieties of these herbicides will also inhibit desirable seed growth. So time your reseeding so that the seeds are not stopped by the herbicide.
In the summer months, there isn't much you can do to fight crabgrass. It is a fast-growing, vigorous weed. The best plan is to prevent it from getting a hold in your lawn next year. Deal with crabgrass before it becomes a problem.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
Friday, November 24, 2006
Lawn Mushrooms - How to Deal with Them!
Here is my Article published in www.ezinearticles.com... i hope you enjoy it! terry
In order to understand what is involved in the permanent removal of lawn mushrooms, it is important to know where they come from, and what causes them. Lawn mushrooms are simply the product of fungi infested in you yard soil in one or more areas of your yard. They are actually the fruit of this fungus, and feed off different sources that could be present. Lawn mushrooms feed off decaying matter such as:
. Old mulch
. Animal waste
. Rotting tree stumps
Abundance of food sources for the fungi in your yard soil will pretty much ensure the presence of lawn mushrooms in your yard. The more food sources for the fungi, the bigger the lawn mushrooms will grow. That is the reason sometimes the lawn mushrooms will be very large, and sometimes they will be very small. It all depends on the amount of food sources the fungi has available. Permanently ridding your yard of lawn mushrooms means totally eliminating the food sources for the fungi. While this can be difficult, and sometimes impossible, the following paragraphs will provide some insight on what is involved in permanently ridding your yard of lawn mushrooms.
Most people spend a lot of time trying to rid their yard of lawn mushrooms. Removing them as you see them is one method of removal, but it will be a never-ending task during several months of the year. Continual removal will keep the appearance of your yard up to par, but the source of the lawn mushrooms will still be present. Thus, the lawn mushrooms are likely to return in the future.
Chemical removal is another method home owners use to rid their yards of lawn mushrooms. As with continual removal, the chemicals will normally kill the mushrooms that are present. But with the food sources for the fungi still present in your yard soil, the lawn mushrooms are likely to return.
Some homeowners research to find a more permanent end to their lawn mushroom problem. There is only one way to permanently rid your yard of lawn mushrooms, and that is to exhaust all of the food sources in your yard and soil. Performing the following tasks could aid in permanently ridding your yard of lawn mushrooms:
. Clean up pet waste
. Dispose of rotting mulch
. Have old tree stumps ground
Having old tree stumps ground may aid in the permanent ridding of lawn mushrooms, but it could also cause a type of mushroom called fairy rings to appear. Most lawn mushrooms do not harm your lawn, but fairy rings are known to commonly kill grass in certain areas of your lawn.
The only effective way of permanent removal of lawn mushrooms of any kind is to rid the fungi of its food source. Sometimes, even after an old tree stump has been removed, the fairy rings and lawn mushrooms come back. In this case, the soil containing the fungi had to be removed, as well. When the food sources for the fungi have all been exhausted, and any soil infested with the mold spores has been removed, you should cease to see the presence of lawn mushrooms in your yard.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
In order to understand what is involved in the permanent removal of lawn mushrooms, it is important to know where they come from, and what causes them. Lawn mushrooms are simply the product of fungi infested in you yard soil in one or more areas of your yard. They are actually the fruit of this fungus, and feed off different sources that could be present. Lawn mushrooms feed off decaying matter such as:
. Old mulch
. Animal waste
. Rotting tree stumps
Abundance of food sources for the fungi in your yard soil will pretty much ensure the presence of lawn mushrooms in your yard. The more food sources for the fungi, the bigger the lawn mushrooms will grow. That is the reason sometimes the lawn mushrooms will be very large, and sometimes they will be very small. It all depends on the amount of food sources the fungi has available. Permanently ridding your yard of lawn mushrooms means totally eliminating the food sources for the fungi. While this can be difficult, and sometimes impossible, the following paragraphs will provide some insight on what is involved in permanently ridding your yard of lawn mushrooms.
Most people spend a lot of time trying to rid their yard of lawn mushrooms. Removing them as you see them is one method of removal, but it will be a never-ending task during several months of the year. Continual removal will keep the appearance of your yard up to par, but the source of the lawn mushrooms will still be present. Thus, the lawn mushrooms are likely to return in the future.
Chemical removal is another method home owners use to rid their yards of lawn mushrooms. As with continual removal, the chemicals will normally kill the mushrooms that are present. But with the food sources for the fungi still present in your yard soil, the lawn mushrooms are likely to return.
Some homeowners research to find a more permanent end to their lawn mushroom problem. There is only one way to permanently rid your yard of lawn mushrooms, and that is to exhaust all of the food sources in your yard and soil. Performing the following tasks could aid in permanently ridding your yard of lawn mushrooms:
. Clean up pet waste
. Dispose of rotting mulch
. Have old tree stumps ground
Having old tree stumps ground may aid in the permanent ridding of lawn mushrooms, but it could also cause a type of mushroom called fairy rings to appear. Most lawn mushrooms do not harm your lawn, but fairy rings are known to commonly kill grass in certain areas of your lawn.
The only effective way of permanent removal of lawn mushrooms of any kind is to rid the fungi of its food source. Sometimes, even after an old tree stump has been removed, the fairy rings and lawn mushrooms come back. In this case, the soil containing the fungi had to be removed, as well. When the food sources for the fungi have all been exhausted, and any soil infested with the mold spores has been removed, you should cease to see the presence of lawn mushrooms in your yard.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Thursday, November 23, 2006
Sodding or Seeding your Lawn!
Here is an Article I had published at www.ezinearticles.com.... enjoy. terry
Site Preparation
Whether seeding or sodding, home lawn quality is closely tied into how well the soil and site were prepared prior to lawn establishment. Taking shortcuts often comes back to haunt the homeowner in the form of chronic lawn problems, such as thatch, weeds, and disease.
Eliminating weed problems existing on the site is an important first step. Perennial weeds, such as quackgrass, need to be controlled prior to seeding or sodding the lawn. One option is to dig them out by hand, making sure roots and stems are completely removed. Another option is to use a translocated (moves within plant) nonselective herbicide, such as glyphosate (sold as Roundup and other trade names). Glufosinate ammonium (Finale) does not translocate, so may only provide limited control of perennial weeds. Both herbicides don't leave active soil residues that would harm seedlings. Read, understand, and follow all label directions.
Another important step in preparing for lawn establishment is to thoroughly work the soil (by rotary tiller) before seeding or sodding. Amend poor soils, such as heavy clay, by adding organic matter. Sources include compost, rotted manure, peat, and quality topsoil. Incorporate these materials into the existing soil, rather than layering them on the surface. Sand is not suggested as a material to improve clay soils for home lawns. Six inches or more of well prepared soil is suggested.
Soil testing is also suggested prior to establishment. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Office on how to get a soil test. Key information revealed by soil testing includes soil pH and amount of available nutrients such as phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). If major modifications are needed, it is easier to make these prior to establishing the lawn and lawns will get off to a better start when soils are modified prior to establishment. Lawn grasses prefer soil pH values between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acidic).
Lower soil pH (make more acidic) by adding elemental sulfur. Raise soil pH (make more alkaline) by adding limestone. Only add these materials when soil tests indicate a need and base the rate on soil test results. Starter fertilizers may also be mixed into the soil surface prior to lawn establishment. Starter fertilizers typically have balanced ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N, P, K), such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12. Soil test results may reveal nutrient shortages which would influence how much starter fertilizer is needed.
When preparing the soil, it's important to establish a favorable final grade. Rough grading should include removal of any rocks or other debris. Avoid burying any construction debris, as this could cause problems for the grass later. Eliminate any depressions or raised areas. Final slopes should be one to two percent away from buildings (one to two feet drop per 100 feet of run) to assure good surface drainage.
Seeding & Sodding Lawns
Once the site is prepared and the proper grasses have been chosen, it's time to plant the lawn. Deciding whether to seed or sod involves a number of factors, as outlined below. Assuming planting is done properly, the end result of a healthy lawn should be the same whether establishing via seeding or sodding. Comparing Seeding and Sodding Home Lawns
Advantages of Seeding
* Large choice of species and cultivars to use
* Less expensive
* Lawn develops on site
Disdvantages of Seeding
* Longer period to wait for useable lawn
* Greater chance of weed invasions & erosion
* Relatively short favorable time for establishment
* May need to reseed
Advantages of Sodding
* 'Instant' lawn
* Fewer weed invasions
* Longer favorable time for establishment
* Less erosion problems
Disdvantages of Sodding
* Expensive
* Less choice in species and varieties
* Potential soil incompatibility problems
* Rooting speed varies
Timing is critical to assure success when seeding lawns. Mid August to early September is the ideal time for seeding lawns and April would be a second choice. Seeding in late spring through mid-summer often leads to problems. Suggested seeding rates are found below. Exceeding rates may result in weak, spindly seedlings and potential disease development. Newly seeded grasses must receive adequate moisture to assure germination and early seedling survival. Putting down a light straw mulch can help prevent rapid drying and helps keep the soil in place until the grass is established. Use about one bale per 1,000 square feet.
When sodding, purchase quality sod that has been freshly cut. Try to use sod that has been grown on a similar type of soil as exists on the site; most of northern Illinois has mineral soils so try to get sod grown on mineral soil. Install promptly. Stagger edges in a similar pattern as laying bricks. Avoid stretching sod or gaps between pieces of sod.
New sod should be watered thoroughly after installation, and then frequently until the sod is established. Water should go down through the sod to moisten the soil underneath for good root development. Mow newly sodded lawns on a regular basis so that no more than one third of the grass height is removed in a single mowing. A height between two and three inches is suggested. Core aerify a sodded lawn after the sod has firmly rooted to the soil. Don't fertilize newly sodded lawns until the next suggested time in the normal fertilizing schedule; details on these and other lawn care practices are discussed in other lessons of the Lawn Challenge.
Suggested Seeding Rates for Lawn Grasses
Species in Seed Mix Rate (pounds/1,000 sq.ft.)
Kentucky bluegrass 1 to 3"
Kentucky bluegrass/perennial ryegrass 3 to 4"
Kentucky bluegrass/fine fescue 3 to 5"
Tall fescue 6 to 9"
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Site Preparation
Whether seeding or sodding, home lawn quality is closely tied into how well the soil and site were prepared prior to lawn establishment. Taking shortcuts often comes back to haunt the homeowner in the form of chronic lawn problems, such as thatch, weeds, and disease.
Eliminating weed problems existing on the site is an important first step. Perennial weeds, such as quackgrass, need to be controlled prior to seeding or sodding the lawn. One option is to dig them out by hand, making sure roots and stems are completely removed. Another option is to use a translocated (moves within plant) nonselective herbicide, such as glyphosate (sold as Roundup and other trade names). Glufosinate ammonium (Finale) does not translocate, so may only provide limited control of perennial weeds. Both herbicides don't leave active soil residues that would harm seedlings. Read, understand, and follow all label directions.
Another important step in preparing for lawn establishment is to thoroughly work the soil (by rotary tiller) before seeding or sodding. Amend poor soils, such as heavy clay, by adding organic matter. Sources include compost, rotted manure, peat, and quality topsoil. Incorporate these materials into the existing soil, rather than layering them on the surface. Sand is not suggested as a material to improve clay soils for home lawns. Six inches or more of well prepared soil is suggested.
Soil testing is also suggested prior to establishment. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Office on how to get a soil test. Key information revealed by soil testing includes soil pH and amount of available nutrients such as phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). If major modifications are needed, it is easier to make these prior to establishing the lawn and lawns will get off to a better start when soils are modified prior to establishment. Lawn grasses prefer soil pH values between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acidic).
Lower soil pH (make more acidic) by adding elemental sulfur. Raise soil pH (make more alkaline) by adding limestone. Only add these materials when soil tests indicate a need and base the rate on soil test results. Starter fertilizers may also be mixed into the soil surface prior to lawn establishment. Starter fertilizers typically have balanced ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N, P, K), such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12. Soil test results may reveal nutrient shortages which would influence how much starter fertilizer is needed.
When preparing the soil, it's important to establish a favorable final grade. Rough grading should include removal of any rocks or other debris. Avoid burying any construction debris, as this could cause problems for the grass later. Eliminate any depressions or raised areas. Final slopes should be one to two percent away from buildings (one to two feet drop per 100 feet of run) to assure good surface drainage.
Seeding & Sodding Lawns
Once the site is prepared and the proper grasses have been chosen, it's time to plant the lawn. Deciding whether to seed or sod involves a number of factors, as outlined below. Assuming planting is done properly, the end result of a healthy lawn should be the same whether establishing via seeding or sodding. Comparing Seeding and Sodding Home Lawns
Advantages of Seeding
* Large choice of species and cultivars to use
* Less expensive
* Lawn develops on site
Disdvantages of Seeding
* Longer period to wait for useable lawn
* Greater chance of weed invasions & erosion
* Relatively short favorable time for establishment
* May need to reseed
Advantages of Sodding
* 'Instant' lawn
* Fewer weed invasions
* Longer favorable time for establishment
* Less erosion problems
Disdvantages of Sodding
* Expensive
* Less choice in species and varieties
* Potential soil incompatibility problems
* Rooting speed varies
Timing is critical to assure success when seeding lawns. Mid August to early September is the ideal time for seeding lawns and April would be a second choice. Seeding in late spring through mid-summer often leads to problems. Suggested seeding rates are found below. Exceeding rates may result in weak, spindly seedlings and potential disease development. Newly seeded grasses must receive adequate moisture to assure germination and early seedling survival. Putting down a light straw mulch can help prevent rapid drying and helps keep the soil in place until the grass is established. Use about one bale per 1,000 square feet.
When sodding, purchase quality sod that has been freshly cut. Try to use sod that has been grown on a similar type of soil as exists on the site; most of northern Illinois has mineral soils so try to get sod grown on mineral soil. Install promptly. Stagger edges in a similar pattern as laying bricks. Avoid stretching sod or gaps between pieces of sod.
New sod should be watered thoroughly after installation, and then frequently until the sod is established. Water should go down through the sod to moisten the soil underneath for good root development. Mow newly sodded lawns on a regular basis so that no more than one third of the grass height is removed in a single mowing. A height between two and three inches is suggested. Core aerify a sodded lawn after the sod has firmly rooted to the soil. Don't fertilize newly sodded lawns until the next suggested time in the normal fertilizing schedule; details on these and other lawn care practices are discussed in other lessons of the Lawn Challenge.
Suggested Seeding Rates for Lawn Grasses
Species in Seed Mix Rate (pounds/1,000 sq.ft.)
Kentucky bluegrass 1 to 3"
Kentucky bluegrass/perennial ryegrass 3 to 4"
Kentucky bluegrass/fine fescue 3 to 5"
Tall fescue 6 to 9"
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Wednesday, November 22, 2006
Dealing with Shady Sites on Your Lawn!
Lawn Grass Options
Having a quality lawn in the shade can be a challenge. Lawns in shade areas are typically thin, weak, and of poor quality. In addition, lawns in shade areas generally do not have the ability to tolerate or recover from stress as compared to lawns growing in full sun. Start improving shade areas for grass growth by pruning trees and large shrubs as much as feasible to allow the maximum amount of light to reach the soil surface.
Significant shade such as this makes growing a quality lawn difficult.
Red fescue or other fine fescues are the primary lawn species in shade lawn mixtures. Among the more commonly used cultivars of the fine fescues are Jamestown, Banner, Barfalla, Checker, Highlight, Koket, Shadow (all chewings fescues); Dawson, Ensylva, Fortress, Pennlawn, and Ruby (creeping red fescues); and Aurora, Biljart(C-26), Reliant, Scaldis, and Waldina (hard fescues). Perennial ryegrass and tall fescue offer intermediate shade tolerance. Perennial ryegrass cultivars for shade include Birdie II, Citation II, Fiesta II, Manhatten II, Palmer,and Regal. Tall fescues best for shade include Falcon, Finelawn, Houndog, Jaguar, Olympic, Rebel,and Rebel II.Kentucky bluegrass generally does poor in the shade, but some shade tolerant cultivars include Bensun, Bristol, Eclipse, Glade, Nugget, Touchdown,and Victa.
After establishment, care of established lawns in shade areas is different than lawns located in full sun. Mow higher (near 3 inches), and fertilize less in the shade, as too much nitrogen can be detrimental to shade lawn species. About one to two pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per growing season is all that is needed. When watering shade lawns, do so as infrequently as possible, and water deeply. Reduce traffic over lawns in the shade.
If these practices have been followed but the lawn still fails, there probably is not enough light, even for a shade tolerant grass species. Shade tolerant grasses still need an acceptable amount of light to grow. Lawns in the shade often have problems with moss (discussion follows) or shade-loving broadleaf weeds (see Lesson 6-Weed Problems in Lawns). Ground ivy, or creeping charlie, is a prime example. These problems exist primarily because the lawn grasses are thin and weak, allowing easy invasion. Follow the steps outlined above to help avoid these problems. Another option is to try a shade tolerant groundcover, as discussed below.
Groundcover Options
There are a variety of groundcovers available for shade areas. Shade groundcovers may offer an alternative to turfgrasses in shade areas, but are not foolproof. Poor soil drainage can cause problems for several species. Some maintenance is also needed to keep the planting looking good. The following list outlines some of the better groundcover choices for shade areas. Common names are provided, followed by Latin names.
.Goutweed
Aegopodium podagraria 'Variegatum'
Persistent, weedy groundcover that spreads via underground rhizomes. Tolerates many soil conditions, deep shade to full-sun, although foliage may scorch in full-sun. Best to plant in contained areas to avoid becoming evasive; cultivar 'Variegatum' more desirable. Buglewood
.Buglewood
Ajuga reptans
Low-growing, attractive foliage, spreads via above ground stolons. Prefers moist, well-drained soils in heavy shade to full-sun; protect from winter winds. Cultivars vary in both flower and foliage color.
.Canada Wild Ginger
Asarum canadense
Forms foliage mass up to six inches tall, spreads rapidly via rhizomes. Excellent deciduous groundcover for partial to deep shade.
.Lily-of-the-Valley
Convallaria majalis
Forms thick carpet of upright leaves, spreads rapidly via rhizomes, very adaptable but does best in well-drained soils, partial to full shade. May crowd out delicate plants. Large quantities of roots and rhizomes are poisonous. Fragrant flowers are popular.
.Purpleleaf Wintercreeper Euonymus
Euonymus fortunei 'Colorata'
Trailing habit and roots readily into soil as it creeps along. Heavy shade to full-sun, prefers well-drained soils. Protect from winter winds. Scale can be a problem.
.Sweet Woodruff
Galium odoratum
Delicate deciduous groundcover that forms uniform mat of bright green, persistent foliage. Small, white flowers. Prefers moist, well-drained soils in medium to deep shade.
.Hosta, Plantain Lily
Hosta species
Large group of hardy, dependable plants with bold, decorative foliage forming neat, circular clumps. Plants spread slowly via short rhizomes. Adaptable, best in open shade. Some have showy, lily-like flowers. Leaf burn problems in sun. Slugs also are a common problem.
.Japanese Spurge
Pachysandra terminalis
Neat, uniform, evergreen groundcover that spreads via rhizomes to form dense mat. Best in shade, well-drained soils. Protect from winter winds; may have pest or disease problems if stressed.
.Common Periwinkle
Vinca minor
Trailing, vinelike evergreen groundcover that roots as it creeps along. Grows in fairly heavy shade to full-sun; although foliage tends to be deeper green and glossier in the shade. Protect from winter wind and sun. Disease problems occur with poor soil drainage and poor air movement.
.Barren Strawberry
Waldsteinia ternata
Forms mats of strawberry-like evergreen foliage with glossy, bright green leaves and yellow flowers. Easy to care for, plant in partial shade to full-sun.
.Woodland Natives
(various species)
A wide variety of woodland plants, such as ferns, Jack-in-the-Pulpit, and trilliums may also be used in areas where turf will not grow or is not desired. Consult with native plant specialists & nurseries.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Having a quality lawn in the shade can be a challenge. Lawns in shade areas are typically thin, weak, and of poor quality. In addition, lawns in shade areas generally do not have the ability to tolerate or recover from stress as compared to lawns growing in full sun. Start improving shade areas for grass growth by pruning trees and large shrubs as much as feasible to allow the maximum amount of light to reach the soil surface.
Significant shade such as this makes growing a quality lawn difficult.
Red fescue or other fine fescues are the primary lawn species in shade lawn mixtures. Among the more commonly used cultivars of the fine fescues are Jamestown, Banner, Barfalla, Checker, Highlight, Koket, Shadow (all chewings fescues); Dawson, Ensylva, Fortress, Pennlawn, and Ruby (creeping red fescues); and Aurora, Biljart(C-26), Reliant, Scaldis, and Waldina (hard fescues). Perennial ryegrass and tall fescue offer intermediate shade tolerance. Perennial ryegrass cultivars for shade include Birdie II, Citation II, Fiesta II, Manhatten II, Palmer,and Regal. Tall fescues best for shade include Falcon, Finelawn, Houndog, Jaguar, Olympic, Rebel,and Rebel II.Kentucky bluegrass generally does poor in the shade, but some shade tolerant cultivars include Bensun, Bristol, Eclipse, Glade, Nugget, Touchdown,and Victa.
After establishment, care of established lawns in shade areas is different than lawns located in full sun. Mow higher (near 3 inches), and fertilize less in the shade, as too much nitrogen can be detrimental to shade lawn species. About one to two pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per growing season is all that is needed. When watering shade lawns, do so as infrequently as possible, and water deeply. Reduce traffic over lawns in the shade.
If these practices have been followed but the lawn still fails, there probably is not enough light, even for a shade tolerant grass species. Shade tolerant grasses still need an acceptable amount of light to grow. Lawns in the shade often have problems with moss (discussion follows) or shade-loving broadleaf weeds (see Lesson 6-Weed Problems in Lawns). Ground ivy, or creeping charlie, is a prime example. These problems exist primarily because the lawn grasses are thin and weak, allowing easy invasion. Follow the steps outlined above to help avoid these problems. Another option is to try a shade tolerant groundcover, as discussed below.
Groundcover Options
There are a variety of groundcovers available for shade areas. Shade groundcovers may offer an alternative to turfgrasses in shade areas, but are not foolproof. Poor soil drainage can cause problems for several species. Some maintenance is also needed to keep the planting looking good. The following list outlines some of the better groundcover choices for shade areas. Common names are provided, followed by Latin names.
.Goutweed
Aegopodium podagraria 'Variegatum'
Persistent, weedy groundcover that spreads via underground rhizomes. Tolerates many soil conditions, deep shade to full-sun, although foliage may scorch in full-sun. Best to plant in contained areas to avoid becoming evasive; cultivar 'Variegatum' more desirable. Buglewood
.Buglewood
Ajuga reptans
Low-growing, attractive foliage, spreads via above ground stolons. Prefers moist, well-drained soils in heavy shade to full-sun; protect from winter winds. Cultivars vary in both flower and foliage color.
.Canada Wild Ginger
Asarum canadense
Forms foliage mass up to six inches tall, spreads rapidly via rhizomes. Excellent deciduous groundcover for partial to deep shade.
.Lily-of-the-Valley
Convallaria majalis
Forms thick carpet of upright leaves, spreads rapidly via rhizomes, very adaptable but does best in well-drained soils, partial to full shade. May crowd out delicate plants. Large quantities of roots and rhizomes are poisonous. Fragrant flowers are popular.
.Purpleleaf Wintercreeper Euonymus
Euonymus fortunei 'Colorata'
Trailing habit and roots readily into soil as it creeps along. Heavy shade to full-sun, prefers well-drained soils. Protect from winter winds. Scale can be a problem.
.Sweet Woodruff
Galium odoratum
Delicate deciduous groundcover that forms uniform mat of bright green, persistent foliage. Small, white flowers. Prefers moist, well-drained soils in medium to deep shade.
.Hosta, Plantain Lily
Hosta species
Large group of hardy, dependable plants with bold, decorative foliage forming neat, circular clumps. Plants spread slowly via short rhizomes. Adaptable, best in open shade. Some have showy, lily-like flowers. Leaf burn problems in sun. Slugs also are a common problem.
.Japanese Spurge
Pachysandra terminalis
Neat, uniform, evergreen groundcover that spreads via rhizomes to form dense mat. Best in shade, well-drained soils. Protect from winter winds; may have pest or disease problems if stressed.
.Common Periwinkle
Vinca minor
Trailing, vinelike evergreen groundcover that roots as it creeps along. Grows in fairly heavy shade to full-sun; although foliage tends to be deeper green and glossier in the shade. Protect from winter wind and sun. Disease problems occur with poor soil drainage and poor air movement.
.Barren Strawberry
Waldsteinia ternata
Forms mats of strawberry-like evergreen foliage with glossy, bright green leaves and yellow flowers. Easy to care for, plant in partial shade to full-sun.
.Woodland Natives
(various species)
A wide variety of woodland plants, such as ferns, Jack-in-the-Pulpit, and trilliums may also be used in areas where turf will not grow or is not desired. Consult with native plant specialists & nurseries.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
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