lawn, care, organic, gardening, vegetables
Hi Folks, Today I thought we might return to basics and consider what practical steps we can take to make sure our Lawns are perfectly smooth, without bumps and holes. There is nothing worse to spoil the look of a Lawn, and it is all the more sad when, with a little corrective action, the problem can be cured.
So - what needs to be done? What practical actions can be taken?
Well, have a look at this Article by Walter Reeves at http://www.walterreeves.com and follow his advice.
"A new home in my neighborhood had new bermudagrass sod planted before it in March. In May one area was a perfect checkerboard of straight lines, composed of weedy plants, surrounding the individual squares of sod.
Evidently the sod installers were in such a hurry to get it down they failed to butt the pieces tightly together. The result was a one inch wide valley between sod pieces, which provided an excellent home for chickweed and annual bluegrass seed to sprout.
Besides the low strips, the hasty installation also left a couple of big tire ruts in the lawn. Each time the home’s grass is mown the lawnmower scalps adjoining turf when its wheels drop into the depressions.
Lumps and low spots are common in new lawns but they can occur in established turf too. All it takes is a couple of kids riding bikes across grass made squishy by a heavy rain and long ruts will be evident for months.
Dave Jones, in Lilburn, recently asked me for advice on leveling his lawn so I have pulled together my best advice.
NOT PURE SAND It is easy for a homeowner to level a lawn. The first task, however, is to unlearn what you see at a golf course. There, sand is commonly used to fill divots made by golf clubs. Since the soil beneath has a high percentage of sand, adding sand to the damaged spot doesn’t change the structural characteristics of the soil.
Normals lawns, though, are not built with a soil mix approved by United States Golf Association. We typically have soil that contains lots of clay. If you add pure sand on top of clay the drainage and growth characteristics of the soil are disjointed. Grass growing in the sand is more susceptible to drought and cold injury. Internal soil drainage is worsened.
HALF AND HALF You can easily make your own lawn patching soil by mixing sand and planting soil in a 1:1 proportion in your wheelbarrow. Some of the retail soil companies have gone so far as to package and sell such a mixture specifically labeled for lawn leveling.
MULTI-PERSON JOB Spreading the leveling mix into low areas can be a nice family activity. One person drives the wheelbarrow while the other wields the shovel to scatter dry soil mixture in the low areas. A third can use a broom to sweep the soil off the grass and into place. Only add one-half inch of soil to the low spots at one time, leaving most green grass leaves showing through. Some areas may still be too low but you need to allow the grass grow up through the soil for at least a month.
After leveling, fertilize lightly (except fescue lawns in summer) and water the lawn thoroughly. Four weeks later, another half-inch of dry soil can be swept into the remaining low spots. My feeling is that raising the soil an inch is all that you should attempt in one year.
FILLING HOLES There is a difference between low spots and deeper depressions in a lawn. Where your lawn is more than an inch lower than the surrounding soil it is best to lift what grass remains, fill the depression with the soil mix and lay the grass back in place. Water and fertilize as above.
COMMERCIAL SERVICES Several companies in Atlanta offer lawn leveling service. Some use an application of sand followed by a thorough aeration to mix the sand with the underlying soil. Others use proprietary techniques and mixtures. Before hiring a company to level your lawn, ask for a list of properties they have recently worked on. Visit the properties to see if their situation originally matched your own and determine if the results of leveling meet your expectations.
Don’t let low spots make lawn maintenance harder than it already is. Fill the low spots with a soil mix that matches what you have and bring the summer to a close with a much less lumpy lawn."
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http:// www.walterreeves.com
lawn, care, organic, gardening, vegetables
Showing posts with label maintenance. Show all posts
Showing posts with label maintenance. Show all posts
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
Thursday, May 03, 2007
Feeding and Weeding Your Lawn With Chemicals
Lawn care, chemicals, organic, gardening,
Hi Guys, here in the UK we are having Local Government Elections today. Last chance to kick Mr Blair in the goolies before he retires to the multi-million dollar lecture circuit. Or possibly he will con some poor bastard into funding his Messianic programme to save the World. Last chance guys. Get out there and vote!
On to nicer subjects, I came across this Article on Chemical feeding and weeding, which I will recommend to you. The Article comes from www.gardenaction.co.uk and is worth a read. Pity we couldn't have used the process to weed out the so-called (allegedly) Government graft.
"There are three readily available lawn feed compounds, each designed for a specific purpose. These are:
1. Spring and summer feed compound. This is rich in nitrogen with a small amount of phosphates. This should be applied in spring when the grass begins to put on some growth.
2. Autumn / fall feed compound. This is rich in phosphates with little nitrogen. This should be applied in autumn when the grass starts to grow more slowly.
3. Lawn sand. This is a mixture of ammonium sulphate, iron sulphate and fine sand. it is used to kill a wide variety of weeds and is especially good at preventing and killing moss in lawns. Additionally it provides a long term tonic for your lawn and has a definite 'greening' effect. It is normally applied in late spring but where moss is a problem it can also be applied in summer.
Study the instructions carefully before applying any of the above treatments because over-application will result in damage to your lawn. If the lawn suffers from over-application, water it very well for a day and in all likelihood it will recover.
Apply the treatments when the weather is dry but there is the prospect of rain in a day or so. If rain does not appear, water well for a day. Do NOT apply any of the above to a new lawn - wait 12 months for a seed sown lawn and 6 months for a turf / sod laid lawn.
When choosing any of the above, go for a well-known name and you will be OK. In general, all the brands are the same, they merely vary the balance of the chemicals slightly. One exception however is that some brands have slow release formulas which release the chemicals into the lawn over a longer time than standard varieties. It is well worth paying the extra money for these brands.
How To Apply Fertiliser
Whichever method you choose, it is essential that the treatment is applied evenly to avoid scorching the lawn in places.
APPLICATION BY HAND
First rule is use gloves and wash your hands afterward - remember, you are using dangerous chemicals. The best method is to use half going up and down the lawn then use the other half going crossways across the lawn.
LIQUID APPLICATION
Normally this means adding the treatment to a specific amount of water in a watering can. Sometimes, there are attachments for hoses. This method is quick acting and less likely to cause scorching.
MECHANICAL APPLICATION
The treatment is added to a container in a wheeled trolley which dispenses the chemicals evenly as the trolley is moved along. If the instructions are followed, this method ensures even distribution."
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: www.gardenaction.co.uk.com
lawn care, chemicals, organic, gardening
Hi Guys, here in the UK we are having Local Government Elections today. Last chance to kick Mr Blair in the goolies before he retires to the multi-million dollar lecture circuit. Or possibly he will con some poor bastard into funding his Messianic programme to save the World. Last chance guys. Get out there and vote!
On to nicer subjects, I came across this Article on Chemical feeding and weeding, which I will recommend to you. The Article comes from www.gardenaction.co.uk and is worth a read. Pity we couldn't have used the process to weed out the so-called (allegedly) Government graft.
"There are three readily available lawn feed compounds, each designed for a specific purpose. These are:
1. Spring and summer feed compound. This is rich in nitrogen with a small amount of phosphates. This should be applied in spring when the grass begins to put on some growth.
2. Autumn / fall feed compound. This is rich in phosphates with little nitrogen. This should be applied in autumn when the grass starts to grow more slowly.
3. Lawn sand. This is a mixture of ammonium sulphate, iron sulphate and fine sand. it is used to kill a wide variety of weeds and is especially good at preventing and killing moss in lawns. Additionally it provides a long term tonic for your lawn and has a definite 'greening' effect. It is normally applied in late spring but where moss is a problem it can also be applied in summer.
Study the instructions carefully before applying any of the above treatments because over-application will result in damage to your lawn. If the lawn suffers from over-application, water it very well for a day and in all likelihood it will recover.
Apply the treatments when the weather is dry but there is the prospect of rain in a day or so. If rain does not appear, water well for a day. Do NOT apply any of the above to a new lawn - wait 12 months for a seed sown lawn and 6 months for a turf / sod laid lawn.
When choosing any of the above, go for a well-known name and you will be OK. In general, all the brands are the same, they merely vary the balance of the chemicals slightly. One exception however is that some brands have slow release formulas which release the chemicals into the lawn over a longer time than standard varieties. It is well worth paying the extra money for these brands.
How To Apply Fertiliser
Whichever method you choose, it is essential that the treatment is applied evenly to avoid scorching the lawn in places.
APPLICATION BY HAND
First rule is use gloves and wash your hands afterward - remember, you are using dangerous chemicals. The best method is to use half going up and down the lawn then use the other half going crossways across the lawn.
LIQUID APPLICATION
Normally this means adding the treatment to a specific amount of water in a watering can. Sometimes, there are attachments for hoses. This method is quick acting and less likely to cause scorching.
MECHANICAL APPLICATION
The treatment is added to a container in a wheeled trolley which dispenses the chemicals evenly as the trolley is moved along. If the instructions are followed, this method ensures even distribution."
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: www.gardenaction.co.uk.com
lawn care, chemicals, organic, gardening
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