Lime - What is Lime used for in Gardening?

What is Lime Used for in Gardening?

For those of you new to gardening, the issue of soil preparation may be a mystery. Believe me it is more than just turning over a sod or two with a spade. I was talking to a friend today about PH and Lime application, and it was apparent from our conversation that this whole area is a mystery to some.

One of the most misunderstood issues in gardening relates to that magic phrase "PH" - so what's it all about? Well, all soils are generally speaking acidic in character, to a higher or lower extent, dependent in each case on a number of variable factors at work in the soil forming process for that individual "soil." Most gardeners recognise the importance of the following influences:

1. The surface features or topography of the area
2.  The prevailing climate particularly rainfall leaching.
3.  The influence of time
4. The nature of the soil itself
5. The type of living organisms active in the soil
6.  The level of fertilizer use

All of these factors are at work and the synthesis of their interaction over time results in a particular level of acidity for that soil sample. So why is acidity so important? Well, it depends on the plants you are growing of course and some plants do better in acidic conditions, but as a general rule high soil acidity is a "no - no" for most plants.

So how do we work out soil acidity? It is obvious that we need some simple measure of soil acidity so that corrective action can be taken to reduce acidity and improve growth conditions. Well, this is where PH comes in. Without going into too much technical jargon, PH is simply a way of calibrating the level ( or potential "P") of hydrogen ions ( H+ ) in a solution of water. It gives us a measure of acidity.

By mixing a solution of soil and distilled water in a 1:1 solution, the PH of the water solution in equilibrium with the soil can be accurately recorded. The lower the PH the more acidic the soil sample. The higher the PH the more alkaline the soil sample. PH is usually measured on a scale of 1 to 14, so that at a PH of 7, the soil sample can be said to be neutral. The lower the PH level the more likely it is that metallic components are present. So below a PH of about 6.0 the incidence of metals such as copper, zinc and manganese increases to toxic levels. Above 6.0 the incidence of nutrients such as calcium, magnesium, phosphorous and potassium increases to beneficial levels for plant growth.

Each plant species is suited to different growing conditions of course, and slightly acidic soil can help to keep down blight in potatoes for example. On the other hand, slightly alkali soil has a higher level of salt present which may not suit your particular crop. Generally however, gardeners tend to aim for neutral PH of around 7.0 in most cases.

So, faced with an acidic soil, what can the gardener do to improve soil quality? Well, this is where lime comes in. You can raise soil PH by applying Lime to the soil. Lime is made by crushing limestone or chalk, whose main active ingredients are calcium and magnesium carbonates and oxides. ( Don't worry - you can buy it at your local Garden Centre ). On application, a chemical reaction occurs which changes some of the hydrogen ion concentration into water and carbon dioxide - in effect diluting the hydrogen ion level and raising the PH measure to a more alkali friendly number. Liming in this way can provide a source of calcium, improve water penetration and increase bacterial activity. Be careful to understand however that Lime is a chemical and overliming can be harmful too.

Lime can be applied throughout the year, but most gardeners will apply it during Winter or early Spring. Remember that Lime is insoluble in water so thoroughly mix the lime with the top soil. Once moisture is applied the lime will start to chemically react, so thorough mixing in dry conditions is very important.

Don't forget that different plants thrive in different soil conditions, so make sure you know which PH level your plant needs before deciding how much or how little Lime to apply.

I hope this article helps you all. Why not let me have your comments?

Rose Winter Protection!

Once you have your roses planted it is time to look out for those predators lurking out there which thrive on your blooms.

Most Summer insects that trouble roses are best treated by a forceful spray of clear water. This is an easy preventative measure to take and should be done early in the day and again in the evening. It should keep most rose pests in check. A good insect repellent powder or spray from your Garden Centre are also good.


The rose-bug or chafer should be hand-picked or knocked off early in the
morning into a pan of coal oil. The leaf-roller must be crushed and any mildews can be controlled with a sulphur spray

For winter protection, all garden roses should be well mulched with leaves or coarse manure in the Autumn. Place a mound of earth round the root and this will afford more than adequate protection.


Another approach is to bend down the tops and fasten them carefully with twine. You can then place a thick layer of dry, dead leaves over and around the plants - ensure they are dry though! Then you can make use of those lawn clippings - simply
put handfuls round the dry leaves, heaped highest in the middle and at least 4 inches thick. This will hold the leaves in place and will allow water to run off.

This protection should be applied to your everblooming roses, including the
teas. The tops should be killed back if not bent down, but this protection
saves the roots and crowns - so when bent down, the tops will be undamaged in most Winters.

Of course most garden centres will sell you strong plants of everblooming or hybrid tea roses at very reasonable rates, and rather than go to the trouble of protecting
them in the Autumn, you may prefer to buy what you need for bedding purposes each Spring. If the soil of the beds is well enriched, the plants will make a rapid and luxuriant growth, blooming freely throughout the Summer.

Pruning Roses!

I've been asked again about pruning roses. I am never sure why there is so much doubt about this subject - something to do with the fear of over cutting perhaps. When about to prune roses, you should first determine whether they bloom on canes arising each year from the ground or near the ground, or whether they make perennial
tops. You should also form a clear idea of whether an abundance of flowers is wanted
for garden effects, or whether large specimen blooms are desired.

If you are pruning the common garden roses, you need to cut back all very vigorous canes to perhaps one-half their length immediately after the June bloom is past. This will have the effect of producing new, strong shoots for Autumn flowering, and also to make good bottoms for the next year's bloom.

Very severe summer pruning, however, is likely to produce too much leafy growth. In the Autumn, all canes may be shortened to 3 feet, four or five of the best canes being left to each plant.

In Spring, you can cut canes right back to fresh wood, leaving perhaps four or five good buds on each cane because it is from these buds that the flowering canes of the year are to come. If you prefer fewer blooms, but of the best size and quality, then leave fewer canes and only two or three new shoots should be allowed to spring from each cane the following Spring.

The rule in trimming all cane-bearing roses is this - cut back weak growing
kinds severely - cut back strong growers moderately.

Climbing and pillar roses need only the weak branches and the tips
shortened in. Other hardy kinds will usually need cutting back about
one-fourth or one-third, according to the vigour of the branches, either
in the Spring or in Autumn.

All everblooming or hybrid tea roses will need to have all dead wood
removed at the time of uncovering them in Spring. Some pruning during
the Summer is also useful in encouraging growth and flowers. The
stronger branches that have flowered may be cut back one-half or more.

Sweet briers, Austrian and rugosas may be kept in bush form; but the
trunks may be cut out at the ground every two or three years, new shoots
having been allowed to come up in the meantime. All rampant growths
should be cut back or taken out.

Fennel!

Fennel

OK - Let's start with a History lesson. In 470 BC there was a famous Battle between the Persians and the Greeks at a place called Marathon. News of this victory was carried to the Greeks by Pheidippides who ran 26 miles to report the victory and promptly died as a result of his epic run.

The battle was ever after immortalised in the Olympic games with the introduction of a 26 mile race called a Marathon in honour of Pheidippides' heroic efforts.

The battle itself was fought in a field of Fennel and the ancient Greek word for fennel is in fact "Marathon."

Fennel is native to hot climes such as the Mediterranean and was grown for its liqourice smell and tasty leaves. The plant has been around for some time and was used by Roman soldiers in particular for the relief of flatulence.

The plant was brought over to England we think by the Roman Army and was successfully introduced into the environment of the time and flourished.

In those days the climate in Britain was much warmer than today - in fact the Roman Army grew grape vines on the Roman Wall in the north of England. That tells us a lot about the latest Scientists scare - Global Warming. It was much warmer 2000 years ago before Industrialisation than it is today - but I digress.

The plant grows all year round and is made up of three different parts:

1. Leaves

2. Bulb

3. Stalk

All can be eaten and Fennel is well established as an herbal aid to Cooking but in addition can be eaten raw when it smells of liqourice and is crispy and crunchy.

Fennel has many health benefits which I will go into in my next Article. For now I will recommend the use of Fennel seed to make an infusion of Fennel Tea. Simply add a teaspoon of Fennel seeds into a tea pot, leave to infuse for 5 minutes (or leave to stew as my Gran used to say) and then strain into a cup as normal ( the Romans did not have tea bags so I assume you still have a tea strainer). Then drink the brew neat without additions to get the full taste and benefits of the brew.

i hope you find this article useful and I will return to the subject another time to discuss the health benefits of Fennel and look at cultivation issues.


Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com/. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance.
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.


Aticle Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn

Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author

How to Grow Fennel!

gardening




Fennel is an herb, all parts on the plant are edible -- the leaves, stems, seeds and roots. The swollen stems at the base of the plant are the part that we are concerned with here, and why fennel has been included in the list of 'Growing vegetables'. Fennel contains these nutrients: Calcium Magnesium, Phosphorus, Sodium, Folic acid, Vitamin C, Potassium, and Phytoestrogens, and has a subtle anise-like flavour and scent



It can be eaten raw as a salad herb or cooked and served with oil, butter or sauce. Fennel can be cooked simply by cutting the bulb into four, removing the centre core of each quarter, adding a little lemon juice and a small knob of butter and cooking it for about twenty minutes on the high setting in a microwave oven.



Cool weather is best for growing fennel. Seeds germinate best at soil temperatures of 61 to 64 F. The plant has a tendency to bolt (flower prematurely) in warm summer weather. When you are growing fennel for the bulb, select a variety that will grow for a long time before bolting in order to produce better-developed bulbs.



Sowing



Fennel quickly develops a large taproot. The seed can be started indoors, then transplanted outside when quite small, but it is usually a better idea to plant the seeds directly out in the garden. Fennel can be planted either in early spring or in the autumn depending on the variety. The plant generally makes it through winter with no trouble, so seeds can even be planted in late autumn to get the plant growing very early in spring.



General Care



Fennel prefers frequent irrigation for rapid growth. Moisture stress causes the basal stalk to split. Fennel plants are believed to release a chemical that impairs the growth of some other plants, so it should not be grown very close to beans, tomatoes or members of the cabbage family.



Sowing



Sow the seed in spring or autumn, the seeds should be sown in medium to light well-drained soil in a sunny location. Fennel thrives on well-drained loam soil. The seed are sown thinly in rows, which are 1 ft. (30cm) apart. Bulb fennel should be thinned to 10 to 14 in. (254mm-355mm) apart when the seedlings are large enough to handle.



Harvest



Harvest just before flowering, lifting the plant, including the bulbs, roots, and some foliage. Finally, the fennel bulb, with some foliage, is cleaned of soil, washed, and can be stored in a cool place.



Pests:



Fennel competes poorly with weeds. Aphids can cause severe damage so as soon as there is signs of aphids, use a garlic spray to disperse them.



Varieties:



Bulbous, Finacchio, or Florence fennel - Height: about 2 feet. (60cm) Is grown for its enlarged bulb.



Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com./ Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at www.lawnsurgeon.com



I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.



Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn



Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author

Pruning Fennel!

I was asked by a pal this week about how to prune Fennel. An unusual request for this is not a plant I have grown myself. Having done some digging around I was amazed at the uses to be made of this wonderful plant.  It's history and origins are fascinating and I will be putting together an Article on Fennel in the next couple of days.

To answer my friend's query as to how to prune Fennel I would recommend you snip Fennel leaves throughout the growing season to add flavor to salads, fish and potatoes. Fennel bulbs can be harvested at any time once they have reached about 2.5 to 3 ins. across. Don't wait much beyond this time as the plant will become rather tough.  Simply slice through the root just below the bulb with a sharp knife, wash the bulbs, removing any damaged outer leaves, dry thoroughly, and store in plastic bags in the refrigerator. Freshly harvested bulbs may be stored up to a week, but for best flavor I recommend immediate use.

As I said before, the uses for this plant are many and varied, and I will publish a full Article on Fennel and its history and properties later this week.