Pruning Roses!

I've been asked again about pruning roses. I am never sure why there is so much doubt about this subject - something to do with the fear of over cutting perhaps. When about to prune roses, you should first determine whether they bloom on canes arising each year from the ground or near the ground, or whether they make perennial
tops. You should also form a clear idea of whether an abundance of flowers is wanted
for garden effects, or whether large specimen blooms are desired.

If you are pruning the common garden roses, you need to cut back all very vigorous canes to perhaps one-half their length immediately after the June bloom is past. This will have the effect of producing new, strong shoots for Autumn flowering, and also to make good bottoms for the next year's bloom.

Very severe summer pruning, however, is likely to produce too much leafy growth. In the Autumn, all canes may be shortened to 3 feet, four or five of the best canes being left to each plant.

In Spring, you can cut canes right back to fresh wood, leaving perhaps four or five good buds on each cane because it is from these buds that the flowering canes of the year are to come. If you prefer fewer blooms, but of the best size and quality, then leave fewer canes and only two or three new shoots should be allowed to spring from each cane the following Spring.

The rule in trimming all cane-bearing roses is this - cut back weak growing
kinds severely - cut back strong growers moderately.

Climbing and pillar roses need only the weak branches and the tips
shortened in. Other hardy kinds will usually need cutting back about
one-fourth or one-third, according to the vigour of the branches, either
in the Spring or in Autumn.

All everblooming or hybrid tea roses will need to have all dead wood
removed at the time of uncovering them in Spring. Some pruning during
the Summer is also useful in encouraging growth and flowers. The
stronger branches that have flowered may be cut back one-half or more.

Sweet briers, Austrian and rugosas may be kept in bush form; but the
trunks may be cut out at the ground every two or three years, new shoots
having been allowed to come up in the meantime. All rampant growths
should be cut back or taken out.

Planting out Roses!

When planting roses, you must take care to avoid exposing the roots to the
drying effect of sun and air. If you have bought dormant field-grown plants
make sure that all broken and bruised roots are cut off smoothly
and squarely. The tops also will need to be cut back. The cut should
always be made just above a bud, preferably on the outer side of the
cane.

Strong-growing varieties may be cut back about one-fourth or one-half,
depending on whether they have good or bad roots. Weaker-growing kinds, as most
of the everblooming roses, should be cut back-most severely. In both
cases it is well to remove the weak growth first. Plants set out from
pots will usually not need cutting back.



Hardy roses, especially the strong field-grown plants, should be set in
the early Autumn. It is better to get them out just as
soon as they have shed their foliage. If not in Autumn, they may be planted
in the early Spring. At that season it is advisable to plant them as
early as the ground is dry enough, and before the buds have started to
grow.

Dormant pot-plants may also be set out early, but they should be
perfectly inactive. Setting them out early in this condition is
preferable to waiting till they are in foliage and full bloom.
Growing pot-plants may be planted any time in Spring after danger of frost is past, or even during the summer, if they are watered and shaded for a few days.

Open-ground plants should be set about as deep as they stood
previously, other than budded or grafted plants, which should be set so
that the union of the stock and graft is 2 to 4 inches below the
surface of the ground.



Plants from pots may also be set an inch deeper than they stood in the pots.
The soil should be in a friable condition. Roses should have the soil
compacted immediately about their roots. As a general rule the
dryer the soil the more firmly it may be pressed.

Generally, roses on their own roots will prove more satisfactory than budded
stock. On own-rooted stock, the suckers or shoots from below the surface
of the soil will be of the same kind, whereas with budded roses there is
danger of the stock (usually Manetti or dog rose) starting into growth
and, not being discovered, outgrowing the bud, taking possession, and
finally killing out the weaker growth.

Still, if the plants are set deep enough to prevent buds of the stock from
starting at all, this can be avoided.

More on Roses!

There are so many classes of roses that the intending planter is likely
to be confused unless he knows what they are. Different classes require
different treatment. Some of them, as the teas and hybrid perpetuals
(the latter also known as remontants), bloom from new canes; while the
rugosa, the Austrian, Harrison's yellow, sweet briers, and some others
are bushes and do not renew themselves each year from the crown or bases
of the canes.

Outdoor roses may be divided into two great groups so far as their
blooming habit is involved:

(1) The continuous or intermittent bloomers, such as the hybrid perpetuals
(blooming chiefly in June), bourbons, tea, rugosa - the teas and hybrid
teas being the most continuous in bloom.

(2) Those that bloom once only, in summer, such as Austrian, Ayrshire, sweet
briers, prairie, Cherokee, Banksian, provence, most moss roses, damask,
multiflora, polyantha, and memorial. "Perpetual" or
recurrent-blooming types have been developed in the Ayrshire, moss,
polyantha, and others however.



While roses flourish in a sunny exposure, nevertheless dry atmosphere
and hot summers are sometimes trying on the flowers, as are severe
wintry winds on the plants. While, therefore, it is never advisable to
plant roses near large trees, or where they will be overshadowed by
buildings or surrounding shrubbery, some shade during the heat of the
day will be a benefit. The best position is an eastern or northern
slope, and where fences or other objects will break the force of strong
winds.

Roses should be carefully taken up every four or five years, tops and
roots cut in, and then reset, either in a new place or in the old, after
enriching the soil with a fresh supply of manure, and deeply spading it
over. In Holland, roses are allowed to stand about eight years. They are
then taken out and their places filled with young plants.

The best soil for roses is a deep and rich clay loam. If it is more or
less of a fibrous character from the presence of grass roots, as is the
case with newly plowed sod ground, so much the better. While this is desirable, any ordinary soil will be fine, provided it is well manured.

Cow manure is strong and lasting, and has no heating effect. It will
cause no damage, even if not rotted. Horse manure, however, should be
well rotted before mixing it with the soil. The manure may be mixed in
the soil at the rate of one part in four. If well rotted, however, more
will not do any damage, as the soil can scarcely be made too rich,
especially for the everblooming (hybrid tea) roses. Care should be taken
to mix the manure thoroughly with the earth, and not to plant the roses
against the manure.

You've got to Laugh!

"I do not like broccoli. And I haven't liked it since I was a little kid
and my mother made me eat it. And I'm President of the United
States and I'm not going to eat any more broccoli."
- George Bush, U.S. President, 1990

How to use Vinegar in your Garden - Keep those Cats Away!

Gardening with vinegar has many uses and benefits and best of all, it is safe to use, doesn't harm the environment, is freely available and it is cheap! It really is, therefore your organic and eco-friendly pesticide, insecticide, and herbicide.

Here you will learn about these benefits and pick up a few tips along the way. It can also be used full-strength or diluted depending on the job at hand. It can also be used quite readily in the kitchen, bathroom and other areas of the house, but today, we are going to just concentrate on the outside areas. One word of warning, however, remember that when it is all said and done, you are working with acid, so make sure you protect your eyes. So what exactly can vinegar do for you?

First of all, for those of you who are plagued by pests and little critters in the garden, fret no more. It will keep cats at bay if you spray in areas you want to deter them, particularly that sand-pit you may have in the garden for the children but those cats will insist on using as their own private toilet! Heavily spray full-strength vinegar around the edges of the sandpit and remember to re-apply after it rains.

Are those rabbits eating your vegetables, particularly your beans and peas? Soak corncobs in full strength vinegar for a couple of hours until they are thoroughly soaked. You may even soak them over-night if you wish. Then place the cobs strategically around your veggie patch. They will keep rabbits away for as long as you re-soak your corncobs every two weeks.

Do you have an ant problem? Again you can apply this full-strength to the ants and they will not come anywhere near the stuff. This is very useful if you find a trail of them making a way into your house. Just spray the thresholds and reapply every couple of days to ensure that they stay away.

Slugs are real pests, because they eat both vegetables, especially lettuces and plants, especially hostas. In this case, vinegar acts as a poison to the slugs because, if you spray slugs with it directly, they will die. You can treat snails in exactly the same way. However, because vinegar is also a herbicide, be careful where you spray your vinegar. Salvias for example will die, if they are sprayed as a casualty.

Are your fruit trees being invaded by fruit flies? Try this fruit fly bait, which is deadly and effective. Take 1 cup of water, a half a cup of cider vinegar, a quarter of a cup of sugar and 1 tablespoon of molasses. Mix it all together. Take old tin cans without their lids and make two holes in opposite ends for wire handles. Attach the handles and add an inch of the mixture to each can. Hang 2 - 3 tins in each tree. Check on the traps on a regular basis to refill and clean when necessary.

After you have been digging in the garden with your gardening tools, soak them in a bucket of half-strength vinegar. This will act as a fungicide and kill off anything that may be lurking unsuspectingly so that there is no possibility of cross-contamination when you use them next.

Are your garden plants struggling and your roses suffering from black spot or other fungal diseases? Take 2 tablespoons of white vinegar and mix it with 4 litres of compost tea. Now spray your garden plants with this mixture and see the difference. For roses, the method is slightly different. Take 3 tablespoons of cider vinegar, and mix it with 4 litres of water to control those fungal diseases. Of course, don't forget the compost tea either on your roses to get the best results. For powdery mildew take 2-3 tablespoons of cider vinegar and mix with 4 litres of water and spray your plants. This will help control the problem.

What about your acid-living plants like azaleas, gardenias and rhododendrons? Are they flowering as well as they could be? If not, increase the soil's acidity. In hard water areas, add 1 cup of vinegar to 4 litres of tap water. It will also release iron into the soil for the plants to use. And if you have too much lime in your garden, add vinegar to neutralize it.

Do you have weeds coming up in between your paving slabs on our driveway or pathway that you cannot remove by hand? Don't use a herbicide that is know to damage the environment. Use an eco-friendly alternative instead. Take 1 litre of boiled water, 2 tablespoons of salt and 5 tablespoons of vinegar. Mix altogether, and whilst still hot, pour onto the offending plants.

Did you know that you can improve your germination success rate of seeds by using vinegar? This is especially useful for those seeds that are more difficult to germinate such as asparagus and okra, morning glories and moonflowers. Rub the seeds gently first between two pieces of coarse sandpaper. Then soak the seeds overnight in 500 ml of warm water, 125 ml of vinegar and a squirt of washing-up liquid. Plant the next day as normal. You can use the same method, but without the sandpaper for nasturtiums, parsley, beetroot, and parsnips.

And finally, are your chickens pecking each other? Add a tablespoon of cider vinegar to their drinking water, and they will stop!

Written by Kathryn Bax, owner and web site developer of Country Living and Farm Lifestyles: A Worldwide Farmers' Market for Farm Food, Farm Accommodation, Game Farms, Wine Farms, Farming Jobs, Farm Swaps, Rural Services, Country Living and much, much more. Buy local and support your local farmers.

http://www.countryfarm-lifestyles.com/

Clover!

So your Lawn is full of the dreaded Clover. Well did you know that until fairly recently, clover was not considered as a weed at all and indeed was liked by gardeners because it gave their Lawn a deeper green look.

This happens because Clover removes Nitrogen from the air and transfers it to your Lawn. In fact, some garden suppliers include Clover in their proprietory lawn mixes even today! It helps the grass grow more pest resistant, reduces the amount of fertilizer required, (so is good for the environment) and leaves the Lawn much healthier.

As a kid you probably went clover searching - looking for that one magical four-leaf charm. Seeing clover's shamrocks and little white or pink flowers in your lawn nowadays probably doesn't make you feel lucky anymore. Like many a perennial weed, clover can be hard to evict from your lawn.

As a result, it's one of the most common weeds around. Even though it's green and its flowers are, admit it, sort of cute, it attracts bees, which can be an underfoot danger, and is also quite slippery when wet, another danger.

So your probably asking what's the best method of Killing Clover In The Lawn?

The most effective method of controlling clover is to maintain a dense and healthy turf area. Often weeds can be easily kept out if the Ph and nutrients levels are optimum. Then a cornmeal application can be use to control the weeds. Use 10 pounds per 1,000 sq ft every 120 days simply as a fertilizer as well.

Mowing height and the frequency of mowing also will deter these weeds.
Clover does especially well in moist conditions and in less than optimally fertile soil. The one nutrient it really goes for is phosphorous.

So if you cut back on the water and up the level of the nutrients, other than phosphorous, that your lawn needs to thrive, your lawn will do better and weeds like clover will do worse. The best defense against any weed, clover included, is a healthy lawn.

Pulling weeds by hand also works in small lawns. Clover has a taproot you can easily dig out by hand. For spot control a little spade action is hard to beat.

In the last resort, chemical action is sometimes necessary, especially when managing large areas. Always read and follow directions on the label and keep pets and children away! Post-emergent herbicides do a great job on clover. A weed-and-feed that lists clover as among its targets will help tackle any serious clover encroachments.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Lawn Mowers - The right way to mow your lawn!

lawn care

Lawn Mowers

The way you mow your lawn could mean the difference between a healthy lawn and a very healthy lawn. Most people are not thrilled when they have to mow the lawn or weed it. But these are important lawn maintenance tasks that have to be done.

The first step to mowing the lawn is to buy the right lawn mower. There are many different kinds of Lawn Mowers on the market today.

Push mower -These are probably the oldest lawn mowers in existence, but they are very effective for smaller lawns. You will get no special perks from this mower. With some updated mower, you may be able to change the blade height, but that’s about it.

All you have to do is manually push the mower over the lawn and it will cut the grass. It is important to make sure the grass is dry or it will get caught in the blade and you will have to remove it.

The clippings will fall on the lawn.

You can grab a bag and rake them up, or you can let them decompose and feed your lawn. It’s your choice.

Electric mower - An electric mower is a little easier to use because it is powers by electricity. This means that you will be able to cut your lawn faster than with a push mower. Older electric mowers have a power cord that you will have to plug in order to use. These mowers can be dangerous if you do not remember to look after the cord.

As with the push mower, you will have to clean up the clippings or leave them on your lawn.

Electric cordless mower - These mowers do not have cords which make them much easier to use and do not require you to find an outlet on both sides of the house. Electric cordless mowers also come with a bag that will store lawn clippings. When the bag is full, you will have to empty it. These mowers run on a battery that can be charged easily when not in use.

These mowers can also be used without the bag if you would rather let the lawn clippings fertilize your lawn.

Ride-on mower - For larger lawns, a ride-on mower will help you not run out of energy to complete other tasks around the yard once the mowing is complete.

These mowers have bags that will catch lawn clippings.

Mulching mower - If you want to use your lawn clippings, but do not like the site of them, you should look into investing in a mulching mower. These mowers will ground up lawn clippings so they are not as visible as regular clippings.

How to Mow

Regardless of which lawn mower you purchase, you should learn how to mow the lawn correctly so that you do not do unnecessary damage. You should consider following these tips:

You should mow your lawn when the grass is dry and is about three inches in length. If you mow any sooner, you may end up killing the grass. You will then have to reseed and start all over again. If you don’t want to walk outside each weekend and measure your lawn, you should mow about twice a month or every other weekend during the summertime.

Each time you mow your lawn, you should begin in a different direction. If you mow in the same direction each time, you will end up creating ruts in your lawn. These ruts could destroy your lawn and also make it look run down and unkempt.

Even if you do not want lawn clippings, and have not purchased a mulching mower, maybe you could compromise and only pick up lawn clippings once a month instead of twice. Full of nutrients, lawn clippings will make your lawn healthier.

Mowing the lawn is not difficult, but it should be done correctly so that you can get the most from your lawn during the spring and summer months. The nutrients you feed your lawn during this time will keep your lawn healthy for the entire year. While mowing too much can be a problem, so can not mowing enough. Long grass can cause shorter pieces to not get enough sunlight.

Mow your lawn consistently and you will enjoy a lush lawn all season long. Fertilize it with fertilizers, mulch, compost, and lawn clippings to keep that green alive all year long.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn

lawn care

Feeding Garden Birds!

Lawn, garden, birds, feeding

I keep returning to my favourite theme about "whole gardens." In other words a garden should be bigger and better than the sum total of its individual parts! We tend to concentrate in this Blog on matters dealing with Lawn Care but a lawn without flowers or birds or insects is like a 1 Course meal. There are so many facets that make up the complete picture and we forget this at our peril. So instead of Lawns, today I want to look at garden birds. I came across this practical Article on feeding birds at website
http://www.yptenc.org.uk/docs/factsheets/env_facts/feed_birds.html
which I recommend to you all!

When to Feed Birds

Birds appreciate being fed throughout the year, but winter is their most difficult time, when they find it hard to find their natural food, such as insects, worms, berries and seeds. Luckily, most birds take readily to a variety of food items that we can easily provide and this helps them to survive the cold winter months.

Seed-eaters, such as chaffinches and greenfinches enjoy being offered a supply of seeds all through the year. Birds, whether they are insect or seed eaters when adult, feed their babies on insects and other minibeasts; it is not a good idea to put out loose whole peanuts in the spring and summer - a whole peanut fed to a baby bird by a misguided parent may choke it! However, most other types of food can be quite safely offered throughout the year.

As well as helping the birds, feeding them enables us to watch them close-up, observe their behaviour and even photograph them quite easily!

Suitable Food for Garden Birds

Almost any kitchen leftovers can be used. Here are the most useful types of food:-

Bread:

Wholemeal bread is best, but any bread can be put out as long as it is crumbled up and moist. Soak very dry bread before offering it to the birds.

Cooked rice, pasta, pastry & potatoes:
these have lots of starch and are appreciated by a variety of birds.

Stale cake & biscuits:
in addition to starch, these contain fat which is an excellent source of energy.

Cheese:
wrens and robins love crumbled or grated cheese.

Fat:
bacon rind, fat trimmed from chops and suet may be cut up into small bits or it can be hung up in a lump.

Fruit:
windfalls or bruisedapples and pears are loved by blackbirds and thrushes. Winter visitors such as redwings and fieldfares, from Scandinavia, may be attracted too. Dried fruits e.g. raisins and sultanas, are appreciated too but always soak these first.

Peanuts:
these are rich in fat and attract a host of birds, including the titfamily, greenfinches, house sparrows, nuthatches, siskins and great spotted woodpeckers. Shelled peanuts may be put in wire mesh containers and hung up. Crushed or chopped nuts may be put out for robins and dunnocks (hedge sparrows). A chain of peanuts in their shells can be made by threading them onto string with a darning needle. Never use salted nuts - these cause the birds to dehydrate.

Fresh Coconut:
this is a favourite with tits. First drain off the milk from a whole coconut by drilling two holes in one end, then saw it in half and hang outside. Never give dessicated (dried) coconut to birds as this swells up inside a bird's stomach.

Bird Seed:
most pet shops and garden centres sell specially prepared seed mixes for wild birds. Greenfinches and chaffinches prefer sunflower seeds, whereas dunnocks and other finches prefer smaller seeds, such as canary seed and millet.

REMEMBER........do not feed the following to your garden birds:- salted nuts, dessicated coconut, highly-spiced food - and not too much white bread or very dry bread.

Where to put the food

Bird Table: a bird table is a convenient place to put out food. It doesn't have to be an elaborate structure - just a 40cm square of exterior grade plywood, preferably with a ridge around the edges, screwed onto a 1.7m post (sunk about 40cm into the ground) is sufficient. It is important to place the table in the right spot. You will want to watch and study the birds, so it needs to be not too far from the house, perhaps, for example, a few feet from the kitchen window.

Cats can be a real nuisance, so bushes and trees should be more than a leap away from the table - a minimum of 2 metres. An inverted metal cone or biscuit tin around the post of a birdtable will make it difficult for cats to climb up (it may also stop squirrels climbing up too!). Instead of being fixed to a post, a table could also be fixed to a wall or a window-sill.

OTHER PLACES; some garden birds are reluctant to feed several feet above the ground. Dunnocks and wrens, for example, prefer to scratch around on the ground, so scatter food for them on the open ground around the bird table. Nuts, fat and coconuts can be hung either from the table or from branches of trees.


Remember:

(i) once you begin putting out food, birds will be attracted from quite a wide area and they will come to rely on you; if you suddenly stop feeding, some of these birds may die, unable to find enough food to survive.

(ii) put food out at regular times - first thing in the morning is probably the best time so that there is a supply of food ready for the hungry birds emerging from a cold night.

(iii) don't overfeed and leave uneaten food lying around during the night. Accumalation of stale food can cause health problems for the birds and attract rats and mice.

Water

Birds need water to drink and bathe in. They must be able to keep their feathers clean in order to keep warm in severe weather. A shallow-edged pond is an ideal watering place for birds, but an upturned dustbin lid or flowerpot base will do just as well. Sink the container into the ground or raise it up on bricks to stop it wobbling about. Keep the water clean and fresh to avoid disease. In very cold weather, keep the bath clear of ice. If the bath is made of metal or stone, a night-light underneath stops ice forming. Do not put antifreeze or salt in the water!

Recipe for Bird Cake

First make a mould from something suitable. A half-coconut shell with string or wire threaded through a small hole in the base makes a good one. Alternatively, an old yoghurt pot can be used (see below).

Ingredients:

500g fat (suet is best)
500g mixed bird seed (not too many large seeds)
750g (up to this but no more) scraps e.g. cake & biscuit crumbs, grated cheese, minced peanuts, sultanas, brown bread etc.


Method:

1. Carefully melt the fat in a large saucepan - don't make it too hot.

2. Stir all the rest of the ingredients into the fat.

3. Pour the mixture into the mould and leave to cool and set. If using a yoghurt pot, push a length of wire into the mixture while it is still soft.

4. When the cake is set, hang the coconut mould upside down in the garden. Cake made in a yoghurt pot can be carefully scooped out using a knife, and hung up by the wire.

Gardening for Birds

Apart from putting out special food for birds, there are several other ways in which we can attract even more bird species to our gardens. Here are a few ideas:-

Grow shrubs which have berries and fruit e.g. elder, hawthorn, cotoneaster, pyracantha, honeysuckle, ivy and mahonia. These plants may also provide nesting sites.

Birds prefer untidy gardeners. Leave dead heads on plants so that the birds can pick out the seeds. Don't clear up all the autumn leaves - leave some leaf litter around so that birds can scratch around in it for minibeasts.

Don't use pesticides. Leave the aphids on the roses for the blue tits to enjoy - don't spray them with chemicals. Pellets used for killing slugs and snails can be dangerous to birds and other wildlife; if a thrush eats a poisoned slug, it may itself be affected by the poison. If you have thrushes around, they will help to control the slug and snail population in your garden, so there should be no need to resort to chemicals.

Useful Reference Books:

The Bird Table Book:
Tony Soper (David & Charles)

How to Make a Wildlife Garden:
Chris Baines (Elm Tree Books)

The RSPB Birdfeeder Handbook:
Robert Burton (Dorling Kindersley)

The Garden Bird Book:
Macmillan in association with the British Trust for Ornithology.


Information supplied by the Young Peoples Trust for the Environment

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source:http://www.yptenc.org.uk/docs/factsheets/env_facts/feed_birds.html

Lawn, garden. birds, feeding

Lawn care

Reverting to the issue of developing a Lawn from scratch, here is the rest of the Article from our friends at http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm

"There are 2 basic types of lawn grasses - your cool-season and warm-season types. Cool-season grasses are hardy, examples include Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue. These grow best in northern, cold-winter climates. As their name suggests, they grow most vigorously in the cool months of the spring and fall seasons. Although they grow slowly in summer, they will stay green through the heat if they're well watered. If you have a cool-season lawn, you need to fertilize it twice: once in late fall, about two weeks before the first frost; and again in late winter to early spring. But go ahead and follow the other steps listed below in early spring when days are still cool. Water this grass about an inch a week, spring through fall.

Warm-season grasses include Bermuda grass and zoysia grass. These grow best in the mild-winter, warm-summer areas of the southern and southwestern United States. These grasses love the summer heat, and tend to go dormant and turn brown in winter. They die in areas where winters are too cold. Begin caring for a warm-season lawn later in the spring, when temperatures are regularly in the mid-80s. Fertilize such grasses in early to mid-spring and again four to six weeks later; do not fertilize in the fall. Water about an inch a week in spring and summer.
Nine Easy Steps to a Better Lawn

Warm-season or cool, all lawns need proper care. Here's how to give your grass a great start.

. Fertilize your lawn. Use a complete lawn fertilizer and apply it, following the recommendations printed on the label. Your lawn will be denser, greener, have fewer weeds and will resist insects and diseases.

. Adjust your soil pH. If your soil is very acidic (likely, if you have abundant summer rainfall), apply powdered limestone to adjust the pH. Talk to the folks at your local nursery or someone at your local cooperative extension office for local advice. These people can help you test your soil pH and tell you the recommended amounts of lime to apply.

. Control weeds. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide, a weed killer that also prevents weeds from reappearing later in the growing season. These herbicides are generally sold in granular form. Do this before weed seeds germinate. To kill broadleaf weeds that appear later, apply a "weed-and-feed" product. Again, timing varies with local conditions, so consult your local nursery for advice. Follow all label instructions carefully.

. Know when to mow. Mow your lawn only when the grass has grown 30 to 50 percent higher than the recommended mowing height. For most cool-season grasses, the recommended height is 3 to 4 inches, so you'd cut when it's 4 to 6 inches high. For most warm-season grasses, the recommended height is 2 to 3 inches, so you'll mow when it's 3 to 4 1/2 inches high. Mow all season, whenever the grass is 30 to 50 percent taller than the recommended height. If you don't let the grass grow too long between mowings, you can leave the clippings on the lawn rather than rake them up. The cut grasses will break down quickly and contribute organic matter and nitrogen to the soil.

. Aerate your lawn. Aerators remove small plugs of grass and soil from the lawn, admitting air to the soil, breaking up mats of dead grass and debris that can accumulate at root level, and invigorating root growth. Aerating also helps water and nutrients penetrate the lawn. You can rent a power aerator at local rental company or hire a lawn-care company to power-aerate for you. The best power aerators work by driving little hollow pistons into the ground that remove tiny cores of soil. For small areas, aerate manually with a sod-coring tool, a special tool that resembles a garden fork.

. Reseed your lawn if necessary. If your cool-season lawn is thin or spotty in places, reseed it. First, roughly rake the area with a steel rake with short, hard tines. Then spread fresh grass seed, following the recommended coverage rates on the seed package. Lightly cover the new seeds with mulch or other >organic matter, and then keep the area moist until the seeds germinate.

. De-thatch your lawn. Thatch is a thick, spongy layer of organic matter and debris that builds up between the grass blades and roots. By keeping water and nutrients from reaching the roots, thatch causes your lawn to grow poorly. Aerating will help to reduce thatch, and you can de-thatch small areas by raking vigorously with a steel rake. But to de-thatch large areas, it's best to rent a power rake or hire a lawn company to do the work for you.

. Check your irrigation system. Each spring, check your irrigation system to make sure it's running properly. Repair clogged and broken sprinkler heads, then adjust your sprinklers so that water falls on the lawn instead of on sidewalks, driveways or patios.

. Water. Most lawns don't need much water early in the season, but if the season has been dry, water deeply. You can tell your lawn is drying when the grass begins to lose color, becoming gray-green or brown. Also, you'll notice that blades don't spring back when you walk across the lawn. Water long enough to wet the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. To measure, push a metal rod into the soil. It will penetrate more easily through moist soil than dry soil, and you can feel the point where the dry soil begins.

Follow these key steps and watch a rich, green carpet of lawn develop, from spring right on through fall."
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm

Lawn care

Rose Color Meanings:

lawn care, roses, organic, gardening

Hi guys, I make no apologies for returning to the subject of my favourite flower - the Rose. There is, in my opinion, no flower in the Universe to touch it. This week in the U.K. we have had the Chelsea Flower Show and to say the least the whole Show has been awesome! Throughout the Show, a variety of designs and new plants have been on display, but throughout, my favourite flower has shone as the premier flower in the World - and everyone's favourite!

Funnily enough, I came across this Article which will appeal to Adults everywhere on the subject of Roses. The Article is by David Beaulieu, writing at http://landscaping.about.com/cs/rosebushes/a/rose_colors.htm
and is very unusual. I recommend it to you!

"Meanings of Roses Based on Colors -- Red Valentine Roses for Lovers
When giving cut roses as Valentine gifts, we adhere to a time-honored formula that takes into account rose color meanings. The formula matches a rose's color to its intended meaning as a gift. Valentine's Day is primarily a lovers' holiday, and red roses are traditionally for lovers. "Valentine roses" and "red roses" go hand in hand, even though other colors have their place on the holiday. Our close family members may also be treated to red roses for Valentine's Day, but we avoid giving roses of this color to friends on Valentine's Day -- that would simply convey the wrong meaning. The following are the meanings traditionally attached to the most popular roses, according to colors; use this list as a guide when selecting Valentine roses:

Red roses mean romantic love; they're the "Valentine roses," par excellence.

Purple, coral and orange challenge red as the color for Valentine roses. The rose color meanings for these 3 are as follows:
The specific purpose of purple roses is to signify that the giver has fallen in love with the recipient at first sight.
Meanwhile, coral and orange roses signal desire.

The meaning of yellow roses is joy and friendship.

We express our gratitude and appreciation with pink roses....

While feelings of admiration and sympathy find words with roses that are light pink in color.

Peach is more ambiguous, as it can signify either sympathy or gratitude.

Their purity naturally enough lends to white roses the meaning of reverence and humility.

What about black roses? Do they exist and, if so, what is the meaning? While no jet-black rose exists, there are some of such a deep red as to suggest black. E.g., Rosa 'Black Magic.' Alternatively, some florists dry fresh roses and dye them black. And the meaning? There is some disagreement on this point. Many say black represents death and can thus be used as a symbol to express vengeance towards a foe. But others interpret that more liberally, suggesting as a meaning for black roses the death of old habits, thus signalling rebirth.

Unless you're a "Goth" or are trying to be funny, I'd stay away from sending black roses: the interpretation is too iffy. But the formula listed above will work for the other colors. Just follow the formula that matches the colors with the corresponding meanings, and you can't go wrong as a gift-giver. But is growing rose bushes in the yard also that simple? Yes, it is. Nor is there any great mystery surrounding it (although pruning roses can be tricky for the beginner, the subject of Page 2). The formula for growing rose bushes is a well-known one, since it is a formula that the average landscape plant lives (or dies) by:

sun + water + drainage + rich soil = rose success

I use the terminology "rose bushes" to refer generally to all roses, regardless of form, which can range from miniature shrubs to sprawling climbers. Once you're committed to following the formula for growing rose bushes, for maximum success you'll simply have to tweak the formula a bit and add some extras. For instance:

While roses like six hours of sun per day, it does matter what part of the day those six hours come from. Six hours of morning sun is preferable to six hours of afternoon sun, for two reasons:
Rose bush foliage prefers to be dry. The quicker the dampness from the night is burned off the foliage, the less likely disease is to become a factor.
The afternoon sun is often excessively hot. Roses profit from some afternoon shade.

To keep insect pests off your rose bushes, try companion planting with garlic. And once per week, while watering your rose bushes, mix some dishwashing soap into the water and apply this "insecticidal soap" to your bushes (of course, there are also true insecticidal soaps that you can buy).

As always, soil pH is a consideration. Roses prefer a pH ranging from 6.5 to 6.8.

For fertilizing roses, a monthly feeding of rose food is recommended.

Care for Rose Bushes on the Landscape: Overwintering, Watering:

In cold climates roses can be mulched, but if you really want to make sure your bushes are protected, practice a winterizing method called the "Minnesota Tip."

Roses need a lot of water (how much "a lot" is will depend, of course, on many factors). As in the case of sunlight hours (see above), not all rose-watering methods are created equal. On the average, it is best to water rose bushes twice a week -- and to water them thoroughly. It would be better to water twice per week deeply than to apply four shallower, less thorough waterings over the same time period.

These are some of the basics of rose bush care. Not too difficult, right? In fact, since there's a logical reason behind all these tips, they're probably easier to remember than the rose color meanings, which would seem to be rather arbitrary. On Page 2 we'll look at pruning techniques, as well as selecting a rose bush and getting it into the ground properly in the first place......"

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://landscaping.about.com/cs/rosebushes/a/rose_colors.htm


lawn care,roses, organic, gardening

Lawn Care

Lawn care

Back to Lawns today. Being a lazy kind of adult, I thought about the process of easily developing a Lawn from scratch and the things to consider such as shape, design etc. While I was toying with the idea of putting together an Article on this subject, I came across this excellent short Series of Articles on this very subject at http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm

"Lawns often suffer from being the last thing any gardener thinks of. We tend to lay out the garden beds, plant our perennials, sort out the large garden structures, the little garden ornaments and well...the lawn kind of just sits there like an afterthought really. And yet, a good looking lush lawn is something that's like the icing on the cake for most gardens. Aside from paving, lawn areas make up most of the open space in a garden and acts as a great contrast to the expanses of garden beds, buildings and paths.

As a general rule, most landscape designers would say that the ratio of open spaces to other structures like builidings, garden beds etc should be around 3 to 1. The greater the area that is covered by lawn, the more 'spacious' it looks - however, whilst that may be fine for a football field, that may not be the look you want. Most gardens require areas of 'privacy' or 'seclusion' so vast expanses of lawn are usually not the best option.


Lawn - should you have it?

Ask yourself really hard questions before deciding on a big expanse of lawn. Lawns require mowing and if you are after a low maintenance garden, then lawns are not for you. Did you know that the front lawn of an average house has the equivalent cooling effect of 2 average sized air conditioners? That's a bit of trivia for you!

The benefits of having a lawn (aside from the cooling effects) are :

an open area for play - great for kids who like their ball games and have a knack of falling over often.
lawn is great at binding soil together and is great at preventing soil erosion. Having said that, lawn is not a great idea if you have a steep sloped area because mowing lawn that is on a hill is backbreaking work.

How to pick a lawn shape.

When planning a lawn shape, these are things you need to take into consideration:

Picking a long narrow stretch of lawn does act to draw the eye to the end point - and it could do that to great effect if there is a focal point that you want to draw the attention of the person to eg a statue.

I mentioned before about sloping lawns, well, if the gradient of the slope is any steeper than 1 in 80, you are going to find maintaining that section of lawn hard going.
Using a garden hose to mark out the lawn shape is a tried and tested means of making nice even curves.
Avoid having paths that end up at a lawn - that's because inevitably that section where the lawn meets the path is the one that is nigh impossible to keep growing as the constant trampling at one point wears it out.
When you are planning your lawn, take into account what kind of landscape and garden edging you are planning to have. Having edging that is flush with the lawn means that you can often run the mower over the edge and save you from having to do any lawn trimming.
Try to avoid having lawn flush up against any building or fence line - that would require trimming and means more work."

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm


lawn care,

Attracting Butterflies to the Garden

lawn care, butterflies, organic, gardening

While we are on the subject of the whole garden, not just the Lawn alone, I thought about what I like to see in gardens that make them special. Obviously we looked at Birds, yesterday. But what about that most delightful visitor "The Butterfly?" There is nothing better than to relax on a warm Summer day with a drink in hand, looking over your garden - the product of your sweat and tears all the year round - and watch the many coloured Butterflies flitting about your Flower beds. Ah! Heavenly Bliss.

So how do we go about attracting these welcome visitors? Here is an Article by
P.A. Opler and W.S. Cranshaw from Colorado State University at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05504.html
which reveals all!

"Quick Facts...
Many kinds of butterflies can be found in Colorado. Encourage butterflies by planning a butterfly garden.
Butterflies seek out areas with food plants for the caterpillar stage. Adult butterflies also feed on fluids such as nectar from flowers.
Butterfly visits increase when environmental needs are met.
Gardening practices to attract and retain butterflies often differ from regular gardening practices.
Dozens of butterfly species commonly occur along the Front Range and eastern Colorado and are a welcome garden addition for many people. Butterflies often appear to be just passing through, occasionally stopping for a drink of nectar. You can prolong the stay of these colorful insects and draw in others by providing the food and shelter they need.

Planning the Butterfly Garden
Make a yard more attractive to butterflies by providing the proper environment. Most important are food plants used by the immature stages (various caterpillars), food sources used by the adult butterflies, and physical environment.

Most butterflies prefer some shelter from the high winds common along the Front Range. At the same time, they like open, sunny areas. Windbreak plantings or other means of sheltering the butterfly garden can help provide a suitable physical environment.

Certain kinds of butterflies (mostly males) often can be seen on moist sand or mud collecting around puddles of water where they feed. The function of these "mud-puddle clubs" is not fully understood, but it is thought that the water contains dissolved minerals needed by the insects. Maintaining a damp, slightly salty area in the yard may attract groups of these butterflies.

Adult female butterflies spend time searching for food plants required by the immature caterpillar stage. Most butterflies have specific host plants on which they develop. For example, caterpillars of the monarch butterfly develop only on milkweed, while the black swallowtail feeds only on parsley, dill and closely related plants. When females find the proper host plant, they may lay eggs on it.

Providing the necessary food plants for the developing caterpillars also allows production of a "native" population that can be observed in all stages of development. Most species, however, fly away as adult butterflies.

Food for adult butterflies usually consists of sweet liquids, such as nectar from flowers, that provide energy. Some flowers contain more nectar, and are more attractive to butterflies. Often, specific types of flowers and flower colors also are more attractive. Some species feed on honeydew (produced by aphids), plant sap, rotting fruit and even bird dung.

When planning a garden, create a large patch of a flower species to attract and retain butterflies. Consider flowers that bloom in sequence. This is particularly important during summer when flower visiting by butterflies is most frequent. Flowers and flowering shrubs that might be good choices for an eastern Colorado butterfly garden are included in Table 1.


Table 1: Some nectar-bearing plants commonly visited by butterflies.
Asters (Aster spp.)
Bee balm (Monarda)
Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii)
Butterfly plant (Asclepias tuberosa)
Bush cinquefolia (Potentilla fruticosa)
Cosmos (Cosmos spp.)
Gaillardia (Gaillardia spp.)
Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) Marigold (Tagetes spp.)
Ornamental thistles
Rabbitbrush (Chrysothamnus nauseosus)
Sunflower (Helianthus spp.)
Sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus)
Verbena (Verbena spp.)
Zinnias (Zinnia spp.)

Common butterflies in eastern Colorado and the foods they use are shown in Table 2. Include these food sources to encourage a steady flow of butterfly visitors.

Common Conflicts
Many of the most attractive nectar plants are commonly considered as "weeds" in other settings. Good examples are various thistles and dandelion, all highly attractive to several common butterflies. The well-manicured and tended garden discourages some butterfly species that develop on wild types of plants. (Note: Canada thistle is considered a noxious weed. Areas that have formed weed districts prohibit by law the culture of Canada thistle.)

A few butterflies also develop on certain garden crops and may be pests if the vegetable is considered more desirable than the insects. The European cabbage butterfly (on broccoli, cabbage and other mustards) and the black swallowtail (on parsley and dill) are common garden inhabitants in Colorado.

Use insecticides sparingly because most are not compatible with attracting and increasing the number of butterflies in a yard. Most garden insecticides can kill the caterpillar stages of the insects. Adult butterflies also can be killed by resting on insecticide-treated surfaces.

References
A Field Guide to Western Butterflies, 2nd Edition. 1999. P.A. Opler and A. Wright (illustrator). Peterson Field Guide Series, Houghton-Mifflin.
Butterflies of North America. P.A. Opler, R.E. Stanford, H. Pavulaan, coordinators, USDI-USGS, Northern Prairie Wildlife Research Center.
http://www.npwrc.usgs.gov/resource/distr/lepid/bflyusa/bflyusa.htm
Butterfly Gardening: Creating Summer Magic in Your Garden. 1990. Xerces Society, in association with the Smithsonian Institution. Sierra Club Books. San Francisco.
Emmel, T.C., M.C. Minno and B.A. Drummond. 1992. Florissant Butterflies: A Guide to the Fossil and Present Day Species of Central Colorado. Stanford University Press. Stanford, Calif.
Ferris, C.D., and F.M. Brown. 1981. Butterflies of the Rocky Mountain States. University of Oklahoma Press. Norman, Okla.
Opler, P., and S.W. Strawn. 1988. Butterflies of the American West: A Coloring Album. Roberts Rinehart. Niwot, Colo.
Opler, P., and A.B. Wright. 1994. Peterson First Guides. Butterflies and Moths. Houghton Mifflin. Boston, New York.
Pyle, R.M. 1981. Audubon Field Guide to North American Butterflies. Alfred A. Knopf. New York.


Table 2: Food used by common eastern Colorado butterflies and skippers.
Butterfly Flight period Caterpillar food Common nectar plants, adult food
Black swallowtail
(Papilio polyxenes) April-September Dill, parsley, fennel, carrot Butterfly weed, alfalfa, thistle
Checkered skipper
(Pyrgus communis) April-October Mallow, hollyhock Verbena, dandelion, Canada thistle, aster
Checkered white
(Pontia protodice) April-November Tumble mustard Alfafa, mustards, bee balm
Clouded sulfur
(Colias philodice) April-November Alfalfa, clover Alfalfa, phlox, rabbitbrush, aster, marigold
Edwards fritillary
(Speyeria edwardsii) June-September Nuttall's violet Rabbitbrush, gaillardia, bee balm
European cabbage butterfly
(Pieris rapae) April-October Broccoli, cabbage (mustard family) Many
Gorgone checkerspot
(Charidryas gorgone) May-September Sunflowers White clover, dandelion, Canada thistle
Gray hairstreak
(Strymon melinus) May-October Many Many
Hackberry butterfly
(Asterocampa celtis) May-September Hackberry Rotting fruit, sap flows
Melissa blue
(Lycaeides melissa) April-October Wild licorice, alfalfa, etc. Bee balm, sweet clover
Monarch
(Danaus plexippus) June-October Milkweed Cosmos, Canada thistle, rabbitbrush, etc.
Mourning cloak
(Nymphalis antiopa) February-November Willow, aspen, cottonwood, elm Rabbitbrush, milkweed, sap
Orange sulfur
(Colias eurytheme) April-October Alfalfa, vetch, pea Alfalfa, marigold, zinnia
Painted Lady
(Vanessa cardui) April-October Thistle, hollyhock, sunflower Grape hyacinth, cosmos, zinnia, alfalfa, many flowers
Silver-spotted skipper
(Epargyreus clarus) May-July Wild licorice, locust, etc. Lilac, dogbane, zinnia, sweet pea, Canada thistle
Two-tailed swallowtail
(Papilio multicaudatus) April-August Green ash, chokecherry Geranium, thistle, milkweed
Variegated fritillary
(Euptoieta claudia) April-October Various, including pansy Rabbitbrush, Canada thistle
Weidemeyer's admiral
(Limentitis weidemeyerii) June-September Willow, aspen, cottonwood Sap flows, snowberry, dung
Western tiger swallowtail
(Papilio rutulus) May-July Willow, cottonwood, chokecherry Zinnia, lilac, butterflybush, thistle, milkweed
Wood nymph
(Cercyonis pegala) June-August Grasses Rabbitbrush, clematis, Canada thistle"

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05504.html


lawn care, butterflies, organic, gardening, vegetables

Lawn - Leveling

lawn, care, organic, gardening, vegetables

Hi Folks, Today I thought we might return to basics and consider what practical steps we can take to make sure our Lawns are perfectly smooth, without bumps and holes. There is nothing worse to spoil the look of a Lawn, and it is all the more sad when, with a little corrective action, the problem can be cured.
So - what needs to be done? What practical actions can be taken?
Well, have a look at this Article by Walter Reeves at http://www.walterreeves.com and follow his advice.

"A new home in my neighborhood had new bermudagrass sod planted before it in March. In May one area was a perfect checkerboard of straight lines, composed of weedy plants, surrounding the individual squares of sod.

Evidently the sod installers were in such a hurry to get it down they failed to butt the pieces tightly together. The result was a one inch wide valley between sod pieces, which provided an excellent home for chickweed and annual bluegrass seed to sprout.

Besides the low strips, the hasty installation also left a couple of big tire ruts in the lawn. Each time the home’s grass is mown the lawnmower scalps adjoining turf when its wheels drop into the depressions.

Lumps and low spots are common in new lawns but they can occur in established turf too. All it takes is a couple of kids riding bikes across grass made squishy by a heavy rain and long ruts will be evident for months.

Dave Jones, in Lilburn, recently asked me for advice on leveling his lawn so I have pulled together my best advice.

NOT PURE SAND It is easy for a homeowner to level a lawn. The first task, however, is to unlearn what you see at a golf course. There, sand is commonly used to fill divots made by golf clubs. Since the soil beneath has a high percentage of sand, adding sand to the damaged spot doesn’t change the structural characteristics of the soil.

Normals lawns, though, are not built with a soil mix approved by United States Golf Association. We typically have soil that contains lots of clay. If you add pure sand on top of clay the drainage and growth characteristics of the soil are disjointed. Grass growing in the sand is more susceptible to drought and cold injury. Internal soil drainage is worsened.

HALF AND HALF You can easily make your own lawn patching soil by mixing sand and planting soil in a 1:1 proportion in your wheelbarrow. Some of the retail soil companies have gone so far as to package and sell such a mixture specifically labeled for lawn leveling.

MULTI-PERSON JOB Spreading the leveling mix into low areas can be a nice family activity. One person drives the wheelbarrow while the other wields the shovel to scatter dry soil mixture in the low areas. A third can use a broom to sweep the soil off the grass and into place. Only add one-half inch of soil to the low spots at one time, leaving most green grass leaves showing through. Some areas may still be too low but you need to allow the grass grow up through the soil for at least a month.

After leveling, fertilize lightly (except fescue lawns in summer) and water the lawn thoroughly. Four weeks later, another half-inch of dry soil can be swept into the remaining low spots. My feeling is that raising the soil an inch is all that you should attempt in one year.

FILLING HOLES There is a difference between low spots and deeper depressions in a lawn. Where your lawn is more than an inch lower than the surrounding soil it is best to lift what grass remains, fill the depression with the soil mix and lay the grass back in place. Water and fertilize as above.

COMMERCIAL SERVICES Several companies in Atlanta offer lawn leveling service. Some use an application of sand followed by a thorough aeration to mix the sand with the underlying soil. Others use proprietary techniques and mixtures. Before hiring a company to level your lawn, ask for a list of properties they have recently worked on. Visit the properties to see if their situation originally matched your own and determine if the results of leveling meet your expectations.

Don’t let low spots make lawn maintenance harder than it already is. Fill the low spots with a soil mix that matches what you have and bring the summer to a close with a much less lumpy lawn."

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http:// www.walterreeves.com


lawn, care, organic, gardening, vegetables

Garden Plants That Attract Birds

lawn, gardening, organic, birds

In concentrating as we do on the subject of Lawn Care, I suspect that we often are guilty of missing the bigger picture with regard to our gardens. For example, a lawn does not just sit in splendid isolation, but should be part of the scenic "whole" garden. Thus we need to ensure the surrounding context - plants, flowers, insects, birds and so on - are equally attended to, so that a harmonic balance is achieved. Only by so doing will we create the true harmonic "whole entity" that is a true garden.

On this point, I came across this Article by Rosemary Drisdelle at http://bird-habitats.suite101.com on the subject of attracting Birds by planting the appropriate trees and shrubs. It is fresh and thought provoking and I recommend it to you!

Gardeners often choose garden plants that are attractive to birds. Here's a sampling of plants of various types that you might use.
If you’re thinking about putting some plants in your backyard bird habitat that will bring in more birds, you’ll need to think about how much space you have and what will grow well in your area. Here are eight suggestions to get you thinking:

Crabapple: a tall spreading flowering tree that grows well in most parts of North America and much of Europe and Asia. The small fruit are eaten by birds and other wildlife, and the high dense branches provide roosting and nesting sites. Crabapples need a lot of space.

Hawthorn: a small tree suited to smaller yards. Hawthorn has fruit on its branches in the colder months, so it can be an important source of food for birds in winter. It also provides good nesting sites and cover from predators. Cardinals and Cedar Waxwings, among other birds, are attracted to hawthorn.

Elderberry: a tall shrub that produces delicate flowers and abundant small fruits—a good plant to grow if your soil is moist. Cedar Waxwings, Rose-breasted Grosbeaks, Gray Catbirds, and dozens of other species of birds visit elderberry for food, nesting sites, or shelter.

Currant: a smaller shrub that produces flowers to attract hummingbirds, and fruit that draws American Robins, California Thrashers, and Hermit Thrushes. Birds that nest near the ground in dense bushes will use a currant bush. A number of species of currant are available, many of which are very drought tolerant.

Honeysuckle: a vine, and a favorite of hummingbirds. A large healthy honeysuckle will also provide lots of insects for birds to eat, fruit that is attractive to blue birds, and sheltered nesting sites.

Rose: shrubs or climbers that flower beautifully while providing insects for food in summer and rosehips in winter. Cardinals and sparrows are noted for visiting roses. The dense thorny growth of many roses provides good protective cover for birds, and safe nesting sites as well.

Sunflowers: tall showy annual flowers that produce a favorite food of many birds—sunflower seeds. The plants stand in the garden well into the fall for birds to visit, or you can harvest the seed and put it out in a feeder all winter.

Butterfly weed: a tall perennial known for attracting butterflies—and it's also a favorite host plant for growing caterpillars. A garden full of butterflies and caterpillars is beautiful in its own right, but it also attracts insect eating birds.
When choosing plants to attract birds to your garden, be sure to consult a local garden specialist to be sure your choices are appropriate for conditions in your area. As well, don’t forget that using herbicides and insecticides in your garden can create a toxic environment for birds and reduce their food supply by killing worms, insects, and other invertebrates. To enjoy lots of birds and butterflies in your garden, switch to chemical free gardening methods.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://bird-habitats.suite101.com


lawn, gardening, organic, birds

Natural Garden Care

lawn, gardening, organic, care

Hi guys! As you are all aware, there is great interest in Organic (Natural) gardening these days. This usually means using natural fertilizing methods, but the Subject is wider than that. I spotted this Article by Francine Stephens at www.checnet.org which is thought provoking and full of basic commonsense. I recommend it to you!

Gardening with your children can be a wonderful way to share your experience of nature with them in an educational and fun setting. Children love to dig in the dirt, make mud pies, and search for bugs. Children also enjoy planting seeds, watching them grow and eating what they have grown. By cultivating their curiosity, you can help your children to develop a life-long love, and respect, for nature.

Healthy soil is the raw material from which a healthy garden can grow. If we allow the soil to retain its natural organic matter, minerals and microorganisms that make the soil a living substance, it will be able to ward off most weeds, insects and disease naturally.

Organic gardening is based on this principle. In an organic garden, synthetic fertilizers and pesticides are not used, but natural fertilizers and pest controls that do not interfere with the health of the garden ecosystem are permitted.

The basic tenets of organic gardening include the following:

CompostingCompost is a rich organic material that results from decomposing organic matter. Mixing compost into garden soil replenishes it with nutrients and organic matter. Compost is easy to make. Simply collect organic material from your kitchen, such as vegetable and fruit waste and garden trimmings, such as fallen leaves and grass clippings, and pile it in a heap outdoors or in a compost bin. This organic matter decomposes with the help of bacteria and heat. What’s left after a few months is call "Black Gold" by some gardeners.

While compost and other organic material release nutrients slowly, they are much safer for the environment and gardens than synthetic fertilizers. Synthetic fertilizers give plants a quick boost, but overuse can result in acidification of soil and does nothing to replace the organic matter which gives substance to soil and supports organisms necessary to soil building.
Aeration of the soilHealthy soil also needs air, which feeds the organisms and microorganisms that break down organic matter to release nutrients. By avoiding pesticides and keeping the soil full of organic material, your garden will be a rich habitat for earthworms. They’ll aerate your soil as well as break down organic matter. You can also use a broad fork to aerate once a year.
Plant diversity When you plant a variety of species in your garden, you encourage genetic diversity, which leads to more successful adaptation in the face of threats by insects and disease. Plant varieties can be more or less attractive to pests as well as garden helpers, such as butterflies and bees. By keeping the garden diverse, your garden ecosystem will be more balanced.
Crop rotation Rotating the location of various types of plants in your garden from year to year prevents the soil from being depleted of nutrients. Corn uses up lots of nitrogen, while legumes put nitrogen back into soil. Planting corn in the same location year after year is likely to result in poorer harvests as time goes due to insufficient nitrogen in the soil. Rotating the corn to another location in the garden prevents the soil from being exhausted of nitrogen. Rotation of plants also prevents soil diseases from taking hold.
Use of cover crops At the end of each season, plant cover crops like clover, rye or alfalfa. They protect soil, keep it from becoming compacted, and can be tilled under to add nutrients back into the soil.
"Companion planting" Planting your vegetables next to other plants that have different odors and root secretions, will help to divert pests away from your plants. Marigolds and tomatoes for example are a good combination. Garlic also helps drive away some insects.
Manual weeding Regular hoeing will control weeds and keep plants healthy and more resistant to insects. Other means of eliminating weeds naturally include pouring boiling water over weeds and using specialized tools, such as a dandelion digger–a long, sharp tool that penetrates as far as dandelion roots do. Using mulch around plants also keeps weeds from sprouting and competing with garden plants.
All gardens will have some pestsTolerating minor flaws and blemishes on fruit and vegetables does not diminish the nutritional value of the food. Garden pests should not be regarded as enemies, rather as indicators of plant stress, letting you know that something is not right. Sick plants attract predators, and an infestation should be signal that your garden ecosystem is out of balance. Adding beneficial insects, such as ladybugs or lacewings boost the predator populations and keep problem insects in check. Too much or too little water, fertilizer, sun, etc., may cause disease.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: www.checnet.org

lawn care, organic, gardening

5 steps to a lush, almost perfect lawn

lawn care, organic, gardening

Well guys, we certainly kicked Tony Blair in the goolies as I hoped we would. Good riddance to bad rubbish! Come on Blair - Do the decent thing and resign today. On more mundane matters, I found this Article at www.american-lawns.com and was attracted by its simplistic, yet effective recommendations. Do the simple things well and regularly and you can't go wrong.

"While there is no magic pill to achieving a better lawn there are some basic steps you can follow that will go a long way in giving you a lush, healthy lawn you'll be proud to walk over. Here then are the 5 basic steps to help anyone achieve a beautiful lawn.

Get the mowing height right for the right time of year.
There's more to mowing than just cutting the grass every saturday. One of the most fundamental steps to a perfect lawn is getting the mowing height right for your type of lawn and for the season.

Most grasses do best with a length of 2 - 3". This applies for spring and early fall. In the summer, if possible, set it even higher. Never go below the minimum recommended height except for the last mowing of the season which should be around 1.5" for most turf grasses.

Mowing height is important because the grass uses the extra length to absorb the sunshine it needs to grow and develop into a healthy plant.

Never remove more than 1/3 at any one mowing. This may mean you'll have to mow more often during prime growing times (usually spring and early fall).

Leave the clippings on the lawn after you mow. This not only save time and energy, but the clippings decompose and add vital nutrients back into the soil. Grass cycling recycles plant nutrients back into the soil. Clippings contain the same beneficial nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium nutrients as that expensive bag of fertilizer. In fact, clippings can provide up to one-third of the annual feeding requirement for your lawn.

Use a sharp blade.
The type of mower doesn't matter, but the blade's condition does. A dull blade tears at the grass. Take a close look at a grass blade a few days after mowing. If the blade is dull you'll notice a jagged brown line across the tip of the cut grass. This is a good indication that your blade needs sharpening. Professional mowers sharpen their blades about every 8 hours of use. For most homeowners, twice a year is recommended.

The jagged edges caused by a dull mower blade make it more difficult for the grass to fight off pests and disease.

Regulate the water intake
Over watering your lawn causes more damage than a lack of water. That's because most turf grasses can handle dry spells, but not flooding. Most grasses require 1 - 1.5" of water per week. This is enough water to moisten the soil to 4 - 6" below the surface for clay soils and 8 - 10" for sandy soils.
Don't guess at how much water your lawn is getting. For measuring Mother Nature's contribution, invest in a rain gauge. If at the end of the week she's contributed enough, hold off adding more. If she comes up short, you'll want to add some supplemental watering. Again, measure how much water your sprinkler is putting down.

You'll have to follow local regulations when there are watering bans, but just remember that less water is acceptable and grass is a very resilient plant. When the rains do return your lawn will come back with a little encouragement on your part.

Give your lawn a regular balanced diet-- but don't over-feed it!
Don't over-feed your lawn with too much of a good thing. 4 balanced fertilizer applications a year is plenty: spring, summer, early fall and after the first frost. If you're in drought conditions, skip the summer feeding. Never skip the fall feeding however. It’s important to use lawn products by following label instructions. Get the best results by following the directions. Overapplication will not improve performance.

Prevention is the best medicine for a healthy lawn
Preventing problems is better than having to correct them. Consistent maintenance is the key. Repair bare spots as needed. Spot treat for weeds with the right herbicide following label directions. Use pre-emergent herbicides for most grassy-type weeds like crabgrass.

Soils can become compacted in high-traffic areas or in areas that have mostly clay soils. Have your lawn aerated once a year, preferably in the fall when soil temperature is around 60 degrees.

That's it. Pretty simple actually and easy to follow."

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: www.american-lawns.comcom

lawn care, organic, gardening

Feeding and Weeding Your Lawn With Chemicals

Lawn care, chemicals, organic, gardening,

Hi Guys, here in the UK we are having Local Government Elections today. Last chance to kick Mr Blair in the goolies before he retires to the multi-million dollar lecture circuit. Or possibly he will con some poor bastard into funding his Messianic programme to save the World. Last chance guys. Get out there and vote!

On to nicer subjects, I came across this Article on Chemical feeding and weeding, which I will recommend to you. The Article comes from www.gardenaction.co.uk and is worth a read. Pity we couldn't have used the process to weed out the so-called (allegedly) Government graft.

"There are three readily available lawn feed compounds, each designed for a specific purpose. These are:

1. Spring and summer feed compound. This is rich in nitrogen with a small amount of phosphates. This should be applied in spring when the grass begins to put on some growth.
2. Autumn / fall feed compound. This is rich in phosphates with little nitrogen. This should be applied in autumn when the grass starts to grow more slowly.
3. Lawn sand. This is a mixture of ammonium sulphate, iron sulphate and fine sand. it is used to kill a wide variety of weeds and is especially good at preventing and killing moss in lawns. Additionally it provides a long term tonic for your lawn and has a definite 'greening' effect. It is normally applied in late spring but where moss is a problem it can also be applied in summer.

Study the instructions carefully before applying any of the above treatments because over-application will result in damage to your lawn. If the lawn suffers from over-application, water it very well for a day and in all likelihood it will recover.

Apply the treatments when the weather is dry but there is the prospect of rain in a day or so. If rain does not appear, water well for a day. Do NOT apply any of the above to a new lawn - wait 12 months for a seed sown lawn and 6 months for a turf / sod laid lawn.

When choosing any of the above, go for a well-known name and you will be OK. In general, all the brands are the same, they merely vary the balance of the chemicals slightly. One exception however is that some brands have slow release formulas which release the chemicals into the lawn over a longer time than standard varieties. It is well worth paying the extra money for these brands.

How To Apply Fertiliser

Whichever method you choose, it is essential that the treatment is applied evenly to avoid scorching the lawn in places.

APPLICATION BY HAND
First rule is use gloves and wash your hands afterward - remember, you are using dangerous chemicals. The best method is to use half going up and down the lawn then use the other half going crossways across the lawn.

LIQUID APPLICATION
Normally this means adding the treatment to a specific amount of water in a watering can. Sometimes, there are attachments for hoses. This method is quick acting and less likely to cause scorching.

MECHANICAL APPLICATION
The treatment is added to a container in a wheeled trolley which dispenses the chemicals evenly as the trolley is moved along. If the instructions are followed, this method ensures even distribution."

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: www.gardenaction.co.uk.com

lawn care, chemicals, organic, gardening

Gardening Calendar - Mid Spring!

lawn care, gardening, calendar

Here in U.K. the weather continues cold and blustery. Some bright days, but the wind is cutting on the North East Coast! We are nearing the beginning of May, when hopefully things will warm up - for us as well as our plants. Here is a Calendar of things to do in the garden in mid Spring from our friends at www.greenzonelife.com

Mid Spring

In mid spring the gardens are full of life, we are now truly into the spring season, the moment of fresh growth and the most exciting season of all seasons in the garden. Everything begin to look green and full of life and the warmer days take us out for longer moments. Is the moment of true joy in every gardener heart and one of the busiest season in the garden.

The warmer days provide ideal conditions for all plants and everything will come to life to transform the garden in a place full of colors and flagrances. The small creatures that have overwintered in our gardens also come back to life from their winter hibernation.

The small seedlings that appear in the trays are the result of the weather conditions that give them the light and warmth and help them to become stronger. Some hardy annuals can now be sown directly outside in the place you want them to grow for the summer display. Be careful to keep a straight row when you sow so you can be able to distinguish the flowers from the weeds that are also starting their growth period.

You can plant gladioli corms, dahlias tubers and chrysanthemums outside, in groups of one variety for a better display. You can start dividing large and congested clumps of decorative grasses or spreading perennials and you can remove the winter protection from the containers.

You can start the clippings on the new growth of the decorative hedges, doing this for maintenance or to give them a new look by creating topiary. Also remember to prune back the flowering shoots of forsythia as soon as its flowers have faded.

Now is a perfect time for a general fertilization and weed-killing using general fertilizer and mulch of bark or compost. For having good crops this year, give some extra attention to your fruiting trees by helping them with a good fertilizer and spreading mulch of compost around them to conserve soil moisture and keep the weeds down. Plant disease-resistant varieties and protect the rest of the others by spraying them with a systemic fungicide.

Mid spring is the time to start the sowing in the vegetable garden too, sow or plant directly outside: herbs, lettuce, broad beans, onion, peas, salads, potatoes or carrots under cloches.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: www.greenzonelife.com

lawn care, gardening

10 Tips for Cutting and Displaying Roses

lawn care, gardening, roses

There is no flower more suitable for cutting than the rose. Strong, sturdy stems, buds that open slowly and elegantly and the bonus of fragrance make roses a favorite in a cutting garden.

Hybrid teas especially lend themselves to cutting. Hybrid tea roses generally produce one perfect blossom at the end of the each stem. Virtually all hybrid tea roses are repeat bloomers throughout the growing season and each blossom may have over 60 petals and be as large as 5 inches across.

Whatever your rose preference, enjoy your blooms even longer with these tips for 4. cutting roses from Marie Iannotti at http://gardening.about.com/od/rose1/a/RoseCutting.htm

10 Tips for Cutting and Displaying Roses

1. Cut roses in after 3 in the afternoon, when they are highest in food reserves.

2. Chooses rose buds that have already begun to open, but that are no more than 1/3 to ½ fully open.

3. Always use clean, sharp pruners to prevent damaging the rose canes and spreading disease.

4. Leave at least 3 leaves on the stem, to feed the plant.

5. Remove all leaves that would be below the water line.

6. Get your roses into water as soon as possible. Bring a bucket of water with you when you cut. If you cut the roses outside without water, re-cut the stems indoors either underwater or immediately plunge them into water.

7. Use either a floral preservative or add a splash of a lemon/lime soda or even a squeeze of lemon and a tablespoon of sugar to the water in the vase.

8 Change the water whenever it starts to get dirty.

9. Let your cut roses have a few hours in a cool spot out of direct sunshine before you display them. This conditioning extends their vase life.

10. If your roses seem to be wilting, water is not able to flow through the stem. Re-cut the stem bottoms and submerge them in very warm, (not so hot you can’t touch it) water and let them sit for about an hour before replacing them in the vase.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.Article Source:
http://gardening.about.com/od/rose1/a/RoseCutting.htm

lawn care, gardening