Lawn, garden, birds, feeding
I keep returning to my favourite theme about "whole gardens." In other words a garden should be bigger and better than the sum total of its individual parts! We tend to concentrate in this Blog on matters dealing with Lawn Care but a lawn without flowers or birds or insects is like a 1 Course meal. There are so many facets that make up the complete picture and we forget this at our peril. So instead of Lawns, today I want to look at garden birds. I came across this practical Article on feeding birds at website
http://www.yptenc.org.uk/docs/factsheets/env_facts/feed_birds.html
which I recommend to you all!
When to Feed Birds
Birds appreciate being fed throughout the year, but winter is their most difficult time, when they find it hard to find their natural food, such as insects, worms, berries and seeds. Luckily, most birds take readily to a variety of food items that we can easily provide and this helps them to survive the cold winter months.
Seed-eaters, such as chaffinches and greenfinches enjoy being offered a supply of seeds all through the year. Birds, whether they are insect or seed eaters when adult, feed their babies on insects and other minibeasts; it is not a good idea to put out loose whole peanuts in the spring and summer - a whole peanut fed to a baby bird by a misguided parent may choke it! However, most other types of food can be quite safely offered throughout the year.
As well as helping the birds, feeding them enables us to watch them close-up, observe their behaviour and even photograph them quite easily!
Suitable Food for Garden Birds
Almost any kitchen leftovers can be used. Here are the most useful types of food:-
Bread:
Wholemeal bread is best, but any bread can be put out as long as it is crumbled up and moist. Soak very dry bread before offering it to the birds.
Cooked rice, pasta, pastry & potatoes:
these have lots of starch and are appreciated by a variety of birds.
Stale cake & biscuits:
in addition to starch, these contain fat which is an excellent source of energy.
Cheese:
wrens and robins love crumbled or grated cheese.
Fat:
bacon rind, fat trimmed from chops and suet may be cut up into small bits or it can be hung up in a lump.
Fruit:
windfalls or bruisedapples and pears are loved by blackbirds and thrushes. Winter visitors such as redwings and fieldfares, from Scandinavia, may be attracted too. Dried fruits e.g. raisins and sultanas, are appreciated too but always soak these first.
Peanuts:
these are rich in fat and attract a host of birds, including the titfamily, greenfinches, house sparrows, nuthatches, siskins and great spotted woodpeckers. Shelled peanuts may be put in wire mesh containers and hung up. Crushed or chopped nuts may be put out for robins and dunnocks (hedge sparrows). A chain of peanuts in their shells can be made by threading them onto string with a darning needle. Never use salted nuts - these cause the birds to dehydrate.
Fresh Coconut:
this is a favourite with tits. First drain off the milk from a whole coconut by drilling two holes in one end, then saw it in half and hang outside. Never give dessicated (dried) coconut to birds as this swells up inside a bird's stomach.
Bird Seed:
most pet shops and garden centres sell specially prepared seed mixes for wild birds. Greenfinches and chaffinches prefer sunflower seeds, whereas dunnocks and other finches prefer smaller seeds, such as canary seed and millet.
REMEMBER........do not feed the following to your garden birds:- salted nuts, dessicated coconut, highly-spiced food - and not too much white bread or very dry bread.
Where to put the food
Bird Table: a bird table is a convenient place to put out food. It doesn't have to be an elaborate structure - just a 40cm square of exterior grade plywood, preferably with a ridge around the edges, screwed onto a 1.7m post (sunk about 40cm into the ground) is sufficient. It is important to place the table in the right spot. You will want to watch and study the birds, so it needs to be not too far from the house, perhaps, for example, a few feet from the kitchen window.
Cats can be a real nuisance, so bushes and trees should be more than a leap away from the table - a minimum of 2 metres. An inverted metal cone or biscuit tin around the post of a birdtable will make it difficult for cats to climb up (it may also stop squirrels climbing up too!). Instead of being fixed to a post, a table could also be fixed to a wall or a window-sill.
OTHER PLACES; some garden birds are reluctant to feed several feet above the ground. Dunnocks and wrens, for example, prefer to scratch around on the ground, so scatter food for them on the open ground around the bird table. Nuts, fat and coconuts can be hung either from the table or from branches of trees.
Remember:
(i) once you begin putting out food, birds will be attracted from quite a wide area and they will come to rely on you; if you suddenly stop feeding, some of these birds may die, unable to find enough food to survive.
(ii) put food out at regular times - first thing in the morning is probably the best time so that there is a supply of food ready for the hungry birds emerging from a cold night.
(iii) don't overfeed and leave uneaten food lying around during the night. Accumalation of stale food can cause health problems for the birds and attract rats and mice.
Water
Birds need water to drink and bathe in. They must be able to keep their feathers clean in order to keep warm in severe weather. A shallow-edged pond is an ideal watering place for birds, but an upturned dustbin lid or flowerpot base will do just as well. Sink the container into the ground or raise it up on bricks to stop it wobbling about. Keep the water clean and fresh to avoid disease. In very cold weather, keep the bath clear of ice. If the bath is made of metal or stone, a night-light underneath stops ice forming. Do not put antifreeze or salt in the water!
Recipe for Bird Cake
First make a mould from something suitable. A half-coconut shell with string or wire threaded through a small hole in the base makes a good one. Alternatively, an old yoghurt pot can be used (see below).
Ingredients:
500g fat (suet is best)
500g mixed bird seed (not too many large seeds)
750g (up to this but no more) scraps e.g. cake & biscuit crumbs, grated cheese, minced peanuts, sultanas, brown bread etc.
Method:
1. Carefully melt the fat in a large saucepan - don't make it too hot.
2. Stir all the rest of the ingredients into the fat.
3. Pour the mixture into the mould and leave to cool and set. If using a yoghurt pot, push a length of wire into the mixture while it is still soft.
4. When the cake is set, hang the coconut mould upside down in the garden. Cake made in a yoghurt pot can be carefully scooped out using a knife, and hung up by the wire.
Gardening for Birds
Apart from putting out special food for birds, there are several other ways in which we can attract even more bird species to our gardens. Here are a few ideas:-
Grow shrubs which have berries and fruit e.g. elder, hawthorn, cotoneaster, pyracantha, honeysuckle, ivy and mahonia. These plants may also provide nesting sites.
Birds prefer untidy gardeners. Leave dead heads on plants so that the birds can pick out the seeds. Don't clear up all the autumn leaves - leave some leaf litter around so that birds can scratch around in it for minibeasts.
Don't use pesticides. Leave the aphids on the roses for the blue tits to enjoy - don't spray them with chemicals. Pellets used for killing slugs and snails can be dangerous to birds and other wildlife; if a thrush eats a poisoned slug, it may itself be affected by the poison. If you have thrushes around, they will help to control the slug and snail population in your garden, so there should be no need to resort to chemicals.
Useful Reference Books:
The Bird Table Book:
Tony Soper (David & Charles)
How to Make a Wildlife Garden:
Chris Baines (Elm Tree Books)
The RSPB Birdfeeder Handbook:
Robert Burton (Dorling Kindersley)
The Garden Bird Book:
Macmillan in association with the British Trust for Ornithology.
Information supplied by the Young Peoples Trust for the Environment
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source:http://www.yptenc.org.uk/docs/factsheets/env_facts/feed_birds.html
Lawn, garden. birds, feeding
Showing posts with label aerator. Show all posts
Showing posts with label aerator. Show all posts
Saturday, June 16, 2007
Monday, May 28, 2007
Lawn care
Reverting to the issue of developing a Lawn from scratch, here is the rest of the Article from our friends at http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm
"There are 2 basic types of lawn grasses - your cool-season and warm-season types. Cool-season grasses are hardy, examples include Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue. These grow best in northern, cold-winter climates. As their name suggests, they grow most vigorously in the cool months of the spring and fall seasons. Although they grow slowly in summer, they will stay green through the heat if they're well watered. If you have a cool-season lawn, you need to fertilize it twice: once in late fall, about two weeks before the first frost; and again in late winter to early spring. But go ahead and follow the other steps listed below in early spring when days are still cool. Water this grass about an inch a week, spring through fall.
Warm-season grasses include Bermuda grass and zoysia grass. These grow best in the mild-winter, warm-summer areas of the southern and southwestern United States. These grasses love the summer heat, and tend to go dormant and turn brown in winter. They die in areas where winters are too cold. Begin caring for a warm-season lawn later in the spring, when temperatures are regularly in the mid-80s. Fertilize such grasses in early to mid-spring and again four to six weeks later; do not fertilize in the fall. Water about an inch a week in spring and summer.
Nine Easy Steps to a Better Lawn
Warm-season or cool, all lawns need proper care. Here's how to give your grass a great start.
. Fertilize your lawn. Use a complete lawn fertilizer and apply it, following the recommendations printed on the label. Your lawn will be denser, greener, have fewer weeds and will resist insects and diseases.
. Adjust your soil pH. If your soil is very acidic (likely, if you have abundant summer rainfall), apply powdered limestone to adjust the pH. Talk to the folks at your local nursery or someone at your local cooperative extension office for local advice. These people can help you test your soil pH and tell you the recommended amounts of lime to apply.
. Control weeds. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide, a weed killer that also prevents weeds from reappearing later in the growing season. These herbicides are generally sold in granular form. Do this before weed seeds germinate. To kill broadleaf weeds that appear later, apply a "weed-and-feed" product. Again, timing varies with local conditions, so consult your local nursery for advice. Follow all label instructions carefully.
. Know when to mow. Mow your lawn only when the grass has grown 30 to 50 percent higher than the recommended mowing height. For most cool-season grasses, the recommended height is 3 to 4 inches, so you'd cut when it's 4 to 6 inches high. For most warm-season grasses, the recommended height is 2 to 3 inches, so you'll mow when it's 3 to 4 1/2 inches high. Mow all season, whenever the grass is 30 to 50 percent taller than the recommended height. If you don't let the grass grow too long between mowings, you can leave the clippings on the lawn rather than rake them up. The cut grasses will break down quickly and contribute organic matter and nitrogen to the soil.
. Aerate your lawn. Aerators remove small plugs of grass and soil from the lawn, admitting air to the soil, breaking up mats of dead grass and debris that can accumulate at root level, and invigorating root growth. Aerating also helps water and nutrients penetrate the lawn. You can rent a power aerator at local rental company or hire a lawn-care company to power-aerate for you. The best power aerators work by driving little hollow pistons into the ground that remove tiny cores of soil. For small areas, aerate manually with a sod-coring tool, a special tool that resembles a garden fork.
. Reseed your lawn if necessary. If your cool-season lawn is thin or spotty in places, reseed it. First, roughly rake the area with a steel rake with short, hard tines. Then spread fresh grass seed, following the recommended coverage rates on the seed package. Lightly cover the new seeds with mulch or other >organic matter, and then keep the area moist until the seeds germinate.
. De-thatch your lawn. Thatch is a thick, spongy layer of organic matter and debris that builds up between the grass blades and roots. By keeping water and nutrients from reaching the roots, thatch causes your lawn to grow poorly. Aerating will help to reduce thatch, and you can de-thatch small areas by raking vigorously with a steel rake. But to de-thatch large areas, it's best to rent a power rake or hire a lawn company to do the work for you.
. Check your irrigation system. Each spring, check your irrigation system to make sure it's running properly. Repair clogged and broken sprinkler heads, then adjust your sprinklers so that water falls on the lawn instead of on sidewalks, driveways or patios.
. Water. Most lawns don't need much water early in the season, but if the season has been dry, water deeply. You can tell your lawn is drying when the grass begins to lose color, becoming gray-green or brown. Also, you'll notice that blades don't spring back when you walk across the lawn. Water long enough to wet the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. To measure, push a metal rod into the soil. It will penetrate more easily through moist soil than dry soil, and you can feel the point where the dry soil begins.
Follow these key steps and watch a rich, green carpet of lawn develop, from spring right on through fall."
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm
Lawn care
Reverting to the issue of developing a Lawn from scratch, here is the rest of the Article from our friends at http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm
"There are 2 basic types of lawn grasses - your cool-season and warm-season types. Cool-season grasses are hardy, examples include Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue. These grow best in northern, cold-winter climates. As their name suggests, they grow most vigorously in the cool months of the spring and fall seasons. Although they grow slowly in summer, they will stay green through the heat if they're well watered. If you have a cool-season lawn, you need to fertilize it twice: once in late fall, about two weeks before the first frost; and again in late winter to early spring. But go ahead and follow the other steps listed below in early spring when days are still cool. Water this grass about an inch a week, spring through fall.
Warm-season grasses include Bermuda grass and zoysia grass. These grow best in the mild-winter, warm-summer areas of the southern and southwestern United States. These grasses love the summer heat, and tend to go dormant and turn brown in winter. They die in areas where winters are too cold. Begin caring for a warm-season lawn later in the spring, when temperatures are regularly in the mid-80s. Fertilize such grasses in early to mid-spring and again four to six weeks later; do not fertilize in the fall. Water about an inch a week in spring and summer.
Nine Easy Steps to a Better Lawn
Warm-season or cool, all lawns need proper care. Here's how to give your grass a great start.
. Fertilize your lawn. Use a complete lawn fertilizer and apply it, following the recommendations printed on the label. Your lawn will be denser, greener, have fewer weeds and will resist insects and diseases.
. Adjust your soil pH. If your soil is very acidic (likely, if you have abundant summer rainfall), apply powdered limestone to adjust the pH. Talk to the folks at your local nursery or someone at your local cooperative extension office for local advice. These people can help you test your soil pH and tell you the recommended amounts of lime to apply.
. Control weeds. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide, a weed killer that also prevents weeds from reappearing later in the growing season. These herbicides are generally sold in granular form. Do this before weed seeds germinate. To kill broadleaf weeds that appear later, apply a "weed-and-feed" product. Again, timing varies with local conditions, so consult your local nursery for advice. Follow all label instructions carefully.
. Know when to mow. Mow your lawn only when the grass has grown 30 to 50 percent higher than the recommended mowing height. For most cool-season grasses, the recommended height is 3 to 4 inches, so you'd cut when it's 4 to 6 inches high. For most warm-season grasses, the recommended height is 2 to 3 inches, so you'll mow when it's 3 to 4 1/2 inches high. Mow all season, whenever the grass is 30 to 50 percent taller than the recommended height. If you don't let the grass grow too long between mowings, you can leave the clippings on the lawn rather than rake them up. The cut grasses will break down quickly and contribute organic matter and nitrogen to the soil.
. Aerate your lawn. Aerators remove small plugs of grass and soil from the lawn, admitting air to the soil, breaking up mats of dead grass and debris that can accumulate at root level, and invigorating root growth. Aerating also helps water and nutrients penetrate the lawn. You can rent a power aerator at local rental company or hire a lawn-care company to power-aerate for you. The best power aerators work by driving little hollow pistons into the ground that remove tiny cores of soil. For small areas, aerate manually with a sod-coring tool, a special tool that resembles a garden fork.
. Reseed your lawn if necessary. If your cool-season lawn is thin or spotty in places, reseed it. First, roughly rake the area with a steel rake with short, hard tines. Then spread fresh grass seed, following the recommended coverage rates on the seed package. Lightly cover the new seeds with mulch or other >organic matter, and then keep the area moist until the seeds germinate.
. De-thatch your lawn. Thatch is a thick, spongy layer of organic matter and debris that builds up between the grass blades and roots. By keeping water and nutrients from reaching the roots, thatch causes your lawn to grow poorly. Aerating will help to reduce thatch, and you can de-thatch small areas by raking vigorously with a steel rake. But to de-thatch large areas, it's best to rent a power rake or hire a lawn company to do the work for you.
. Check your irrigation system. Each spring, check your irrigation system to make sure it's running properly. Repair clogged and broken sprinkler heads, then adjust your sprinklers so that water falls on the lawn instead of on sidewalks, driveways or patios.
. Water. Most lawns don't need much water early in the season, but if the season has been dry, water deeply. You can tell your lawn is drying when the grass begins to lose color, becoming gray-green or brown. Also, you'll notice that blades don't spring back when you walk across the lawn. Water long enough to wet the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. To measure, push a metal rod into the soil. It will penetrate more easily through moist soil than dry soil, and you can feel the point where the dry soil begins.
Follow these key steps and watch a rich, green carpet of lawn develop, from spring right on through fall."
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm
Lawn care
Saturday, May 26, 2007
Rose Color Meanings:
lawn care, roses, organic, gardening
Hi guys, I make no apologies for returning to the subject of my favourite flower - the Rose. There is, in my opinion, no flower in the Universe to touch it. This week in the U.K. we have had the Chelsea Flower Show and to say the least the whole Show has been awesome! Throughout the Show, a variety of designs and new plants have been on display, but throughout, my favourite flower has shone as the premier flower in the World - and everyone's favourite!
Funnily enough, I came across this Article which will appeal to Adults everywhere on the subject of Roses. The Article is by David Beaulieu, writing at http://landscaping.about.com/cs/rosebushes/a/rose_colors.htm
and is very unusual. I recommend it to you!
"Meanings of Roses Based on Colors -- Red Valentine Roses for Lovers
When giving cut roses as Valentine gifts, we adhere to a time-honored formula that takes into account rose color meanings. The formula matches a rose's color to its intended meaning as a gift. Valentine's Day is primarily a lovers' holiday, and red roses are traditionally for lovers. "Valentine roses" and "red roses" go hand in hand, even though other colors have their place on the holiday. Our close family members may also be treated to red roses for Valentine's Day, but we avoid giving roses of this color to friends on Valentine's Day -- that would simply convey the wrong meaning. The following are the meanings traditionally attached to the most popular roses, according to colors; use this list as a guide when selecting Valentine roses:
Red roses mean romantic love; they're the "Valentine roses," par excellence.
Purple, coral and orange challenge red as the color for Valentine roses. The rose color meanings for these 3 are as follows:
The specific purpose of purple roses is to signify that the giver has fallen in love with the recipient at first sight.
Meanwhile, coral and orange roses signal desire.
The meaning of yellow roses is joy and friendship.
We express our gratitude and appreciation with pink roses....
While feelings of admiration and sympathy find words with roses that are light pink in color.
Peach is more ambiguous, as it can signify either sympathy or gratitude.
Their purity naturally enough lends to white roses the meaning of reverence and humility.
What about black roses? Do they exist and, if so, what is the meaning? While no jet-black rose exists, there are some of such a deep red as to suggest black. E.g., Rosa 'Black Magic.' Alternatively, some florists dry fresh roses and dye them black. And the meaning? There is some disagreement on this point. Many say black represents death and can thus be used as a symbol to express vengeance towards a foe. But others interpret that more liberally, suggesting as a meaning for black roses the death of old habits, thus signalling rebirth.
Unless you're a "Goth" or are trying to be funny, I'd stay away from sending black roses: the interpretation is too iffy. But the formula listed above will work for the other colors. Just follow the formula that matches the colors with the corresponding meanings, and you can't go wrong as a gift-giver. But is growing rose bushes in the yard also that simple? Yes, it is. Nor is there any great mystery surrounding it (although pruning roses can be tricky for the beginner, the subject of Page 2). The formula for growing rose bushes is a well-known one, since it is a formula that the average landscape plant lives (or dies) by:
sun + water + drainage + rich soil = rose success
I use the terminology "rose bushes" to refer generally to all roses, regardless of form, which can range from miniature shrubs to sprawling climbers. Once you're committed to following the formula for growing rose bushes, for maximum success you'll simply have to tweak the formula a bit and add some extras. For instance:
While roses like six hours of sun per day, it does matter what part of the day those six hours come from. Six hours of morning sun is preferable to six hours of afternoon sun, for two reasons:
Rose bush foliage prefers to be dry. The quicker the dampness from the night is burned off the foliage, the less likely disease is to become a factor.
The afternoon sun is often excessively hot. Roses profit from some afternoon shade.
To keep insect pests off your rose bushes, try companion planting with garlic. And once per week, while watering your rose bushes, mix some dishwashing soap into the water and apply this "insecticidal soap" to your bushes (of course, there are also true insecticidal soaps that you can buy).
As always, soil pH is a consideration. Roses prefer a pH ranging from 6.5 to 6.8.
For fertilizing roses, a monthly feeding of rose food is recommended.
Care for Rose Bushes on the Landscape: Overwintering, Watering:
In cold climates roses can be mulched, but if you really want to make sure your bushes are protected, practice a winterizing method called the "Minnesota Tip."
Roses need a lot of water (how much "a lot" is will depend, of course, on many factors). As in the case of sunlight hours (see above), not all rose-watering methods are created equal. On the average, it is best to water rose bushes twice a week -- and to water them thoroughly. It would be better to water twice per week deeply than to apply four shallower, less thorough waterings over the same time period.
These are some of the basics of rose bush care. Not too difficult, right? In fact, since there's a logical reason behind all these tips, they're probably easier to remember than the rose color meanings, which would seem to be rather arbitrary. On Page 2 we'll look at pruning techniques, as well as selecting a rose bush and getting it into the ground properly in the first place......"
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://landscaping.about.com/cs/rosebushes/a/rose_colors.htm
lawn care,roses, organic, gardening
Hi guys, I make no apologies for returning to the subject of my favourite flower - the Rose. There is, in my opinion, no flower in the Universe to touch it. This week in the U.K. we have had the Chelsea Flower Show and to say the least the whole Show has been awesome! Throughout the Show, a variety of designs and new plants have been on display, but throughout, my favourite flower has shone as the premier flower in the World - and everyone's favourite!
Funnily enough, I came across this Article which will appeal to Adults everywhere on the subject of Roses. The Article is by David Beaulieu, writing at http://landscaping.about.com/cs/rosebushes/a/rose_colors.htm
and is very unusual. I recommend it to you!
"Meanings of Roses Based on Colors -- Red Valentine Roses for Lovers
When giving cut roses as Valentine gifts, we adhere to a time-honored formula that takes into account rose color meanings. The formula matches a rose's color to its intended meaning as a gift. Valentine's Day is primarily a lovers' holiday, and red roses are traditionally for lovers. "Valentine roses" and "red roses" go hand in hand, even though other colors have their place on the holiday. Our close family members may also be treated to red roses for Valentine's Day, but we avoid giving roses of this color to friends on Valentine's Day -- that would simply convey the wrong meaning. The following are the meanings traditionally attached to the most popular roses, according to colors; use this list as a guide when selecting Valentine roses:
Red roses mean romantic love; they're the "Valentine roses," par excellence.
Purple, coral and orange challenge red as the color for Valentine roses. The rose color meanings for these 3 are as follows:
The specific purpose of purple roses is to signify that the giver has fallen in love with the recipient at first sight.
Meanwhile, coral and orange roses signal desire.
The meaning of yellow roses is joy and friendship.
We express our gratitude and appreciation with pink roses....
While feelings of admiration and sympathy find words with roses that are light pink in color.
Peach is more ambiguous, as it can signify either sympathy or gratitude.
Their purity naturally enough lends to white roses the meaning of reverence and humility.
What about black roses? Do they exist and, if so, what is the meaning? While no jet-black rose exists, there are some of such a deep red as to suggest black. E.g., Rosa 'Black Magic.' Alternatively, some florists dry fresh roses and dye them black. And the meaning? There is some disagreement on this point. Many say black represents death and can thus be used as a symbol to express vengeance towards a foe. But others interpret that more liberally, suggesting as a meaning for black roses the death of old habits, thus signalling rebirth.
Unless you're a "Goth" or are trying to be funny, I'd stay away from sending black roses: the interpretation is too iffy. But the formula listed above will work for the other colors. Just follow the formula that matches the colors with the corresponding meanings, and you can't go wrong as a gift-giver. But is growing rose bushes in the yard also that simple? Yes, it is. Nor is there any great mystery surrounding it (although pruning roses can be tricky for the beginner, the subject of Page 2). The formula for growing rose bushes is a well-known one, since it is a formula that the average landscape plant lives (or dies) by:
sun + water + drainage + rich soil = rose success
I use the terminology "rose bushes" to refer generally to all roses, regardless of form, which can range from miniature shrubs to sprawling climbers. Once you're committed to following the formula for growing rose bushes, for maximum success you'll simply have to tweak the formula a bit and add some extras. For instance:
While roses like six hours of sun per day, it does matter what part of the day those six hours come from. Six hours of morning sun is preferable to six hours of afternoon sun, for two reasons:
Rose bush foliage prefers to be dry. The quicker the dampness from the night is burned off the foliage, the less likely disease is to become a factor.
The afternoon sun is often excessively hot. Roses profit from some afternoon shade.
To keep insect pests off your rose bushes, try companion planting with garlic. And once per week, while watering your rose bushes, mix some dishwashing soap into the water and apply this "insecticidal soap" to your bushes (of course, there are also true insecticidal soaps that you can buy).
As always, soil pH is a consideration. Roses prefer a pH ranging from 6.5 to 6.8.
For fertilizing roses, a monthly feeding of rose food is recommended.
Care for Rose Bushes on the Landscape: Overwintering, Watering:
In cold climates roses can be mulched, but if you really want to make sure your bushes are protected, practice a winterizing method called the "Minnesota Tip."
Roses need a lot of water (how much "a lot" is will depend, of course, on many factors). As in the case of sunlight hours (see above), not all rose-watering methods are created equal. On the average, it is best to water rose bushes twice a week -- and to water them thoroughly. It would be better to water twice per week deeply than to apply four shallower, less thorough waterings over the same time period.
These are some of the basics of rose bush care. Not too difficult, right? In fact, since there's a logical reason behind all these tips, they're probably easier to remember than the rose color meanings, which would seem to be rather arbitrary. On Page 2 we'll look at pruning techniques, as well as selecting a rose bush and getting it into the ground properly in the first place......"
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://landscaping.about.com/cs/rosebushes/a/rose_colors.htm
lawn care,roses, organic, gardening
Friday, May 25, 2007
Lawn Care
Lawn care
Back to Lawns today. Being a lazy kind of adult, I thought about the process of easily developing a Lawn from scratch and the things to consider such as shape, design etc. While I was toying with the idea of putting together an Article on this subject, I came across this excellent short Series of Articles on this very subject at http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm
"Lawns often suffer from being the last thing any gardener thinks of. We tend to lay out the garden beds, plant our perennials, sort out the large garden structures, the little garden ornaments and well...the lawn kind of just sits there like an afterthought really. And yet, a good looking lush lawn is something that's like the icing on the cake for most gardens. Aside from paving, lawn areas make up most of the open space in a garden and acts as a great contrast to the expanses of garden beds, buildings and paths.
As a general rule, most landscape designers would say that the ratio of open spaces to other structures like builidings, garden beds etc should be around 3 to 1. The greater the area that is covered by lawn, the more 'spacious' it looks - however, whilst that may be fine for a football field, that may not be the look you want. Most gardens require areas of 'privacy' or 'seclusion' so vast expanses of lawn are usually not the best option.
Lawn - should you have it?
Ask yourself really hard questions before deciding on a big expanse of lawn. Lawns require mowing and if you are after a low maintenance garden, then lawns are not for you. Did you know that the front lawn of an average house has the equivalent cooling effect of 2 average sized air conditioners? That's a bit of trivia for you!
The benefits of having a lawn (aside from the cooling effects) are :
an open area for play - great for kids who like their ball games and have a knack of falling over often.
lawn is great at binding soil together and is great at preventing soil erosion. Having said that, lawn is not a great idea if you have a steep sloped area because mowing lawn that is on a hill is backbreaking work.
How to pick a lawn shape.
When planning a lawn shape, these are things you need to take into consideration:
Picking a long narrow stretch of lawn does act to draw the eye to the end point - and it could do that to great effect if there is a focal point that you want to draw the attention of the person to eg a statue.
I mentioned before about sloping lawns, well, if the gradient of the slope is any steeper than 1 in 80, you are going to find maintaining that section of lawn hard going.
Using a garden hose to mark out the lawn shape is a tried and tested means of making nice even curves.
Avoid having paths that end up at a lawn - that's because inevitably that section where the lawn meets the path is the one that is nigh impossible to keep growing as the constant trampling at one point wears it out.
When you are planning your lawn, take into account what kind of landscape and garden edging you are planning to have. Having edging that is flush with the lawn means that you can often run the mower over the edge and save you from having to do any lawn trimming.
Try to avoid having lawn flush up against any building or fence line - that would require trimming and means more work."
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm
lawn care,
Back to Lawns today. Being a lazy kind of adult, I thought about the process of easily developing a Lawn from scratch and the things to consider such as shape, design etc. While I was toying with the idea of putting together an Article on this subject, I came across this excellent short Series of Articles on this very subject at http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm
"Lawns often suffer from being the last thing any gardener thinks of. We tend to lay out the garden beds, plant our perennials, sort out the large garden structures, the little garden ornaments and well...the lawn kind of just sits there like an afterthought really. And yet, a good looking lush lawn is something that's like the icing on the cake for most gardens. Aside from paving, lawn areas make up most of the open space in a garden and acts as a great contrast to the expanses of garden beds, buildings and paths.
As a general rule, most landscape designers would say that the ratio of open spaces to other structures like builidings, garden beds etc should be around 3 to 1. The greater the area that is covered by lawn, the more 'spacious' it looks - however, whilst that may be fine for a football field, that may not be the look you want. Most gardens require areas of 'privacy' or 'seclusion' so vast expanses of lawn are usually not the best option.
Lawn - should you have it?
Ask yourself really hard questions before deciding on a big expanse of lawn. Lawns require mowing and if you are after a low maintenance garden, then lawns are not for you. Did you know that the front lawn of an average house has the equivalent cooling effect of 2 average sized air conditioners? That's a bit of trivia for you!
The benefits of having a lawn (aside from the cooling effects) are :
an open area for play - great for kids who like their ball games and have a knack of falling over often.
lawn is great at binding soil together and is great at preventing soil erosion. Having said that, lawn is not a great idea if you have a steep sloped area because mowing lawn that is on a hill is backbreaking work.
How to pick a lawn shape.
When planning a lawn shape, these are things you need to take into consideration:
Picking a long narrow stretch of lawn does act to draw the eye to the end point - and it could do that to great effect if there is a focal point that you want to draw the attention of the person to eg a statue.
I mentioned before about sloping lawns, well, if the gradient of the slope is any steeper than 1 in 80, you are going to find maintaining that section of lawn hard going.
Using a garden hose to mark out the lawn shape is a tried and tested means of making nice even curves.
Avoid having paths that end up at a lawn - that's because inevitably that section where the lawn meets the path is the one that is nigh impossible to keep growing as the constant trampling at one point wears it out.
When you are planning your lawn, take into account what kind of landscape and garden edging you are planning to have. Having edging that is flush with the lawn means that you can often run the mower over the edge and save you from having to do any lawn trimming.
Try to avoid having lawn flush up against any building or fence line - that would require trimming and means more work."
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm
lawn care,
Thursday, May 24, 2007
Attracting Butterflies to the Garden
lawn care, butterflies, organic, gardening
While we are on the subject of the whole garden, not just the Lawn alone, I thought about what I like to see in gardens that make them special. Obviously we looked at Birds, yesterday. But what about that most delightful visitor "The Butterfly?" There is nothing better than to relax on a warm Summer day with a drink in hand, looking over your garden - the product of your sweat and tears all the year round - and watch the many coloured Butterflies flitting about your Flower beds. Ah! Heavenly Bliss.
So how do we go about attracting these welcome visitors? Here is an Article by
P.A. Opler and W.S. Cranshaw from Colorado State University at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05504.html
which reveals all!
"Quick Facts...
Many kinds of butterflies can be found in Colorado. Encourage butterflies by planning a butterfly garden.
Butterflies seek out areas with food plants for the caterpillar stage. Adult butterflies also feed on fluids such as nectar from flowers.
Butterfly visits increase when environmental needs are met.
Gardening practices to attract and retain butterflies often differ from regular gardening practices.
Dozens of butterfly species commonly occur along the Front Range and eastern Colorado and are a welcome garden addition for many people. Butterflies often appear to be just passing through, occasionally stopping for a drink of nectar. You can prolong the stay of these colorful insects and draw in others by providing the food and shelter they need.
Planning the Butterfly Garden
Make a yard more attractive to butterflies by providing the proper environment. Most important are food plants used by the immature stages (various caterpillars), food sources used by the adult butterflies, and physical environment.
Most butterflies prefer some shelter from the high winds common along the Front Range. At the same time, they like open, sunny areas. Windbreak plantings or other means of sheltering the butterfly garden can help provide a suitable physical environment.
Certain kinds of butterflies (mostly males) often can be seen on moist sand or mud collecting around puddles of water where they feed. The function of these "mud-puddle clubs" is not fully understood, but it is thought that the water contains dissolved minerals needed by the insects. Maintaining a damp, slightly salty area in the yard may attract groups of these butterflies.
Adult female butterflies spend time searching for food plants required by the immature caterpillar stage. Most butterflies have specific host plants on which they develop. For example, caterpillars of the monarch butterfly develop only on milkweed, while the black swallowtail feeds only on parsley, dill and closely related plants. When females find the proper host plant, they may lay eggs on it.
Providing the necessary food plants for the developing caterpillars also allows production of a "native" population that can be observed in all stages of development. Most species, however, fly away as adult butterflies.
Food for adult butterflies usually consists of sweet liquids, such as nectar from flowers, that provide energy. Some flowers contain more nectar, and are more attractive to butterflies. Often, specific types of flowers and flower colors also are more attractive. Some species feed on honeydew (produced by aphids), plant sap, rotting fruit and even bird dung.
When planning a garden, create a large patch of a flower species to attract and retain butterflies. Consider flowers that bloom in sequence. This is particularly important during summer when flower visiting by butterflies is most frequent. Flowers and flowering shrubs that might be good choices for an eastern Colorado butterfly garden are included in Table 1.
Table 1: Some nectar-bearing plants commonly visited by butterflies.
Asters (Aster spp.)
Bee balm (Monarda)
Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii)
Butterfly plant (Asclepias tuberosa)
Bush cinquefolia (Potentilla fruticosa)
Cosmos (Cosmos spp.)
Gaillardia (Gaillardia spp.)
Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) Marigold (Tagetes spp.)
Ornamental thistles
Rabbitbrush (Chrysothamnus nauseosus)
Sunflower (Helianthus spp.)
Sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus)
Verbena (Verbena spp.)
Zinnias (Zinnia spp.)
Common butterflies in eastern Colorado and the foods they use are shown in Table 2. Include these food sources to encourage a steady flow of butterfly visitors.
Common Conflicts
Many of the most attractive nectar plants are commonly considered as "weeds" in other settings. Good examples are various thistles and dandelion, all highly attractive to several common butterflies. The well-manicured and tended garden discourages some butterfly species that develop on wild types of plants. (Note: Canada thistle is considered a noxious weed. Areas that have formed weed districts prohibit by law the culture of Canada thistle.)
A few butterflies also develop on certain garden crops and may be pests if the vegetable is considered more desirable than the insects. The European cabbage butterfly (on broccoli, cabbage and other mustards) and the black swallowtail (on parsley and dill) are common garden inhabitants in Colorado.
Use insecticides sparingly because most are not compatible with attracting and increasing the number of butterflies in a yard. Most garden insecticides can kill the caterpillar stages of the insects. Adult butterflies also can be killed by resting on insecticide-treated surfaces.
References
A Field Guide to Western Butterflies, 2nd Edition. 1999. P.A. Opler and A. Wright (illustrator). Peterson Field Guide Series, Houghton-Mifflin.
Butterflies of North America. P.A. Opler, R.E. Stanford, H. Pavulaan, coordinators, USDI-USGS, Northern Prairie Wildlife Research Center.
http://www.npwrc.usgs.gov/resource/distr/lepid/bflyusa/bflyusa.htm
Butterfly Gardening: Creating Summer Magic in Your Garden. 1990. Xerces Society, in association with the Smithsonian Institution. Sierra Club Books. San Francisco.
Emmel, T.C., M.C. Minno and B.A. Drummond. 1992. Florissant Butterflies: A Guide to the Fossil and Present Day Species of Central Colorado. Stanford University Press. Stanford, Calif.
Ferris, C.D., and F.M. Brown. 1981. Butterflies of the Rocky Mountain States. University of Oklahoma Press. Norman, Okla.
Opler, P., and S.W. Strawn. 1988. Butterflies of the American West: A Coloring Album. Roberts Rinehart. Niwot, Colo.
Opler, P., and A.B. Wright. 1994. Peterson First Guides. Butterflies and Moths. Houghton Mifflin. Boston, New York.
Pyle, R.M. 1981. Audubon Field Guide to North American Butterflies. Alfred A. Knopf. New York.
Table 2: Food used by common eastern Colorado butterflies and skippers.
Butterfly Flight period Caterpillar food Common nectar plants, adult food
Black swallowtail
(Papilio polyxenes) April-September Dill, parsley, fennel, carrot Butterfly weed, alfalfa, thistle
Checkered skipper
(Pyrgus communis) April-October Mallow, hollyhock Verbena, dandelion, Canada thistle, aster
Checkered white
(Pontia protodice) April-November Tumble mustard Alfafa, mustards, bee balm
Clouded sulfur
(Colias philodice) April-November Alfalfa, clover Alfalfa, phlox, rabbitbrush, aster, marigold
Edwards fritillary
(Speyeria edwardsii) June-September Nuttall's violet Rabbitbrush, gaillardia, bee balm
European cabbage butterfly
(Pieris rapae) April-October Broccoli, cabbage (mustard family) Many
Gorgone checkerspot
(Charidryas gorgone) May-September Sunflowers White clover, dandelion, Canada thistle
Gray hairstreak
(Strymon melinus) May-October Many Many
Hackberry butterfly
(Asterocampa celtis) May-September Hackberry Rotting fruit, sap flows
Melissa blue
(Lycaeides melissa) April-October Wild licorice, alfalfa, etc. Bee balm, sweet clover
Monarch
(Danaus plexippus) June-October Milkweed Cosmos, Canada thistle, rabbitbrush, etc.
Mourning cloak
(Nymphalis antiopa) February-November Willow, aspen, cottonwood, elm Rabbitbrush, milkweed, sap
Orange sulfur
(Colias eurytheme) April-October Alfalfa, vetch, pea Alfalfa, marigold, zinnia
Painted Lady
(Vanessa cardui) April-October Thistle, hollyhock, sunflower Grape hyacinth, cosmos, zinnia, alfalfa, many flowers
Silver-spotted skipper
(Epargyreus clarus) May-July Wild licorice, locust, etc. Lilac, dogbane, zinnia, sweet pea, Canada thistle
Two-tailed swallowtail
(Papilio multicaudatus) April-August Green ash, chokecherry Geranium, thistle, milkweed
Variegated fritillary
(Euptoieta claudia) April-October Various, including pansy Rabbitbrush, Canada thistle
Weidemeyer's admiral
(Limentitis weidemeyerii) June-September Willow, aspen, cottonwood Sap flows, snowberry, dung
Western tiger swallowtail
(Papilio rutulus) May-July Willow, cottonwood, chokecherry Zinnia, lilac, butterflybush, thistle, milkweed
Wood nymph
(Cercyonis pegala) June-August Grasses Rabbitbrush, clematis, Canada thistle"
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05504.html
lawn care, butterflies, organic, gardening, vegetables
While we are on the subject of the whole garden, not just the Lawn alone, I thought about what I like to see in gardens that make them special. Obviously we looked at Birds, yesterday. But what about that most delightful visitor "The Butterfly?" There is nothing better than to relax on a warm Summer day with a drink in hand, looking over your garden - the product of your sweat and tears all the year round - and watch the many coloured Butterflies flitting about your Flower beds. Ah! Heavenly Bliss.
So how do we go about attracting these welcome visitors? Here is an Article by
P.A. Opler and W.S. Cranshaw from Colorado State University at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05504.html
which reveals all!
"Quick Facts...
Many kinds of butterflies can be found in Colorado. Encourage butterflies by planning a butterfly garden.
Butterflies seek out areas with food plants for the caterpillar stage. Adult butterflies also feed on fluids such as nectar from flowers.
Butterfly visits increase when environmental needs are met.
Gardening practices to attract and retain butterflies often differ from regular gardening practices.
Dozens of butterfly species commonly occur along the Front Range and eastern Colorado and are a welcome garden addition for many people. Butterflies often appear to be just passing through, occasionally stopping for a drink of nectar. You can prolong the stay of these colorful insects and draw in others by providing the food and shelter they need.
Planning the Butterfly Garden
Make a yard more attractive to butterflies by providing the proper environment. Most important are food plants used by the immature stages (various caterpillars), food sources used by the adult butterflies, and physical environment.
Most butterflies prefer some shelter from the high winds common along the Front Range. At the same time, they like open, sunny areas. Windbreak plantings or other means of sheltering the butterfly garden can help provide a suitable physical environment.
Certain kinds of butterflies (mostly males) often can be seen on moist sand or mud collecting around puddles of water where they feed. The function of these "mud-puddle clubs" is not fully understood, but it is thought that the water contains dissolved minerals needed by the insects. Maintaining a damp, slightly salty area in the yard may attract groups of these butterflies.
Adult female butterflies spend time searching for food plants required by the immature caterpillar stage. Most butterflies have specific host plants on which they develop. For example, caterpillars of the monarch butterfly develop only on milkweed, while the black swallowtail feeds only on parsley, dill and closely related plants. When females find the proper host plant, they may lay eggs on it.
Providing the necessary food plants for the developing caterpillars also allows production of a "native" population that can be observed in all stages of development. Most species, however, fly away as adult butterflies.
Food for adult butterflies usually consists of sweet liquids, such as nectar from flowers, that provide energy. Some flowers contain more nectar, and are more attractive to butterflies. Often, specific types of flowers and flower colors also are more attractive. Some species feed on honeydew (produced by aphids), plant sap, rotting fruit and even bird dung.
When planning a garden, create a large patch of a flower species to attract and retain butterflies. Consider flowers that bloom in sequence. This is particularly important during summer when flower visiting by butterflies is most frequent. Flowers and flowering shrubs that might be good choices for an eastern Colorado butterfly garden are included in Table 1.
Table 1: Some nectar-bearing plants commonly visited by butterflies.
Asters (Aster spp.)
Bee balm (Monarda)
Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii)
Butterfly plant (Asclepias tuberosa)
Bush cinquefolia (Potentilla fruticosa)
Cosmos (Cosmos spp.)
Gaillardia (Gaillardia spp.)
Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) Marigold (Tagetes spp.)
Ornamental thistles
Rabbitbrush (Chrysothamnus nauseosus)
Sunflower (Helianthus spp.)
Sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus)
Verbena (Verbena spp.)
Zinnias (Zinnia spp.)
Common butterflies in eastern Colorado and the foods they use are shown in Table 2. Include these food sources to encourage a steady flow of butterfly visitors.
Common Conflicts
Many of the most attractive nectar plants are commonly considered as "weeds" in other settings. Good examples are various thistles and dandelion, all highly attractive to several common butterflies. The well-manicured and tended garden discourages some butterfly species that develop on wild types of plants. (Note: Canada thistle is considered a noxious weed. Areas that have formed weed districts prohibit by law the culture of Canada thistle.)
A few butterflies also develop on certain garden crops and may be pests if the vegetable is considered more desirable than the insects. The European cabbage butterfly (on broccoli, cabbage and other mustards) and the black swallowtail (on parsley and dill) are common garden inhabitants in Colorado.
Use insecticides sparingly because most are not compatible with attracting and increasing the number of butterflies in a yard. Most garden insecticides can kill the caterpillar stages of the insects. Adult butterflies also can be killed by resting on insecticide-treated surfaces.
References
A Field Guide to Western Butterflies, 2nd Edition. 1999. P.A. Opler and A. Wright (illustrator). Peterson Field Guide Series, Houghton-Mifflin.
Butterflies of North America. P.A. Opler, R.E. Stanford, H. Pavulaan, coordinators, USDI-USGS, Northern Prairie Wildlife Research Center.
http://www.npwrc.usgs.gov/resource/distr/lepid/bflyusa/bflyusa.htm
Butterfly Gardening: Creating Summer Magic in Your Garden. 1990. Xerces Society, in association with the Smithsonian Institution. Sierra Club Books. San Francisco.
Emmel, T.C., M.C. Minno and B.A. Drummond. 1992. Florissant Butterflies: A Guide to the Fossil and Present Day Species of Central Colorado. Stanford University Press. Stanford, Calif.
Ferris, C.D., and F.M. Brown. 1981. Butterflies of the Rocky Mountain States. University of Oklahoma Press. Norman, Okla.
Opler, P., and S.W. Strawn. 1988. Butterflies of the American West: A Coloring Album. Roberts Rinehart. Niwot, Colo.
Opler, P., and A.B. Wright. 1994. Peterson First Guides. Butterflies and Moths. Houghton Mifflin. Boston, New York.
Pyle, R.M. 1981. Audubon Field Guide to North American Butterflies. Alfred A. Knopf. New York.
Table 2: Food used by common eastern Colorado butterflies and skippers.
Butterfly Flight period Caterpillar food Common nectar plants, adult food
Black swallowtail
(Papilio polyxenes) April-September Dill, parsley, fennel, carrot Butterfly weed, alfalfa, thistle
Checkered skipper
(Pyrgus communis) April-October Mallow, hollyhock Verbena, dandelion, Canada thistle, aster
Checkered white
(Pontia protodice) April-November Tumble mustard Alfafa, mustards, bee balm
Clouded sulfur
(Colias philodice) April-November Alfalfa, clover Alfalfa, phlox, rabbitbrush, aster, marigold
Edwards fritillary
(Speyeria edwardsii) June-September Nuttall's violet Rabbitbrush, gaillardia, bee balm
European cabbage butterfly
(Pieris rapae) April-October Broccoli, cabbage (mustard family) Many
Gorgone checkerspot
(Charidryas gorgone) May-September Sunflowers White clover, dandelion, Canada thistle
Gray hairstreak
(Strymon melinus) May-October Many Many
Hackberry butterfly
(Asterocampa celtis) May-September Hackberry Rotting fruit, sap flows
Melissa blue
(Lycaeides melissa) April-October Wild licorice, alfalfa, etc. Bee balm, sweet clover
Monarch
(Danaus plexippus) June-October Milkweed Cosmos, Canada thistle, rabbitbrush, etc.
Mourning cloak
(Nymphalis antiopa) February-November Willow, aspen, cottonwood, elm Rabbitbrush, milkweed, sap
Orange sulfur
(Colias eurytheme) April-October Alfalfa, vetch, pea Alfalfa, marigold, zinnia
Painted Lady
(Vanessa cardui) April-October Thistle, hollyhock, sunflower Grape hyacinth, cosmos, zinnia, alfalfa, many flowers
Silver-spotted skipper
(Epargyreus clarus) May-July Wild licorice, locust, etc. Lilac, dogbane, zinnia, sweet pea, Canada thistle
Two-tailed swallowtail
(Papilio multicaudatus) April-August Green ash, chokecherry Geranium, thistle, milkweed
Variegated fritillary
(Euptoieta claudia) April-October Various, including pansy Rabbitbrush, Canada thistle
Weidemeyer's admiral
(Limentitis weidemeyerii) June-September Willow, aspen, cottonwood Sap flows, snowberry, dung
Western tiger swallowtail
(Papilio rutulus) May-July Willow, cottonwood, chokecherry Zinnia, lilac, butterflybush, thistle, milkweed
Wood nymph
(Cercyonis pegala) June-August Grasses Rabbitbrush, clematis, Canada thistle"
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05504.html
lawn care, butterflies, organic, gardening, vegetables
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
Lawn - Leveling
lawn, care, organic, gardening, vegetables
Hi Folks, Today I thought we might return to basics and consider what practical steps we can take to make sure our Lawns are perfectly smooth, without bumps and holes. There is nothing worse to spoil the look of a Lawn, and it is all the more sad when, with a little corrective action, the problem can be cured.
So - what needs to be done? What practical actions can be taken?
Well, have a look at this Article by Walter Reeves at http://www.walterreeves.com and follow his advice.
"A new home in my neighborhood had new bermudagrass sod planted before it in March. In May one area was a perfect checkerboard of straight lines, composed of weedy plants, surrounding the individual squares of sod.
Evidently the sod installers were in such a hurry to get it down they failed to butt the pieces tightly together. The result was a one inch wide valley between sod pieces, which provided an excellent home for chickweed and annual bluegrass seed to sprout.
Besides the low strips, the hasty installation also left a couple of big tire ruts in the lawn. Each time the home’s grass is mown the lawnmower scalps adjoining turf when its wheels drop into the depressions.
Lumps and low spots are common in new lawns but they can occur in established turf too. All it takes is a couple of kids riding bikes across grass made squishy by a heavy rain and long ruts will be evident for months.
Dave Jones, in Lilburn, recently asked me for advice on leveling his lawn so I have pulled together my best advice.
NOT PURE SAND It is easy for a homeowner to level a lawn. The first task, however, is to unlearn what you see at a golf course. There, sand is commonly used to fill divots made by golf clubs. Since the soil beneath has a high percentage of sand, adding sand to the damaged spot doesn’t change the structural characteristics of the soil.
Normals lawns, though, are not built with a soil mix approved by United States Golf Association. We typically have soil that contains lots of clay. If you add pure sand on top of clay the drainage and growth characteristics of the soil are disjointed. Grass growing in the sand is more susceptible to drought and cold injury. Internal soil drainage is worsened.
HALF AND HALF You can easily make your own lawn patching soil by mixing sand and planting soil in a 1:1 proportion in your wheelbarrow. Some of the retail soil companies have gone so far as to package and sell such a mixture specifically labeled for lawn leveling.
MULTI-PERSON JOB Spreading the leveling mix into low areas can be a nice family activity. One person drives the wheelbarrow while the other wields the shovel to scatter dry soil mixture in the low areas. A third can use a broom to sweep the soil off the grass and into place. Only add one-half inch of soil to the low spots at one time, leaving most green grass leaves showing through. Some areas may still be too low but you need to allow the grass grow up through the soil for at least a month.
After leveling, fertilize lightly (except fescue lawns in summer) and water the lawn thoroughly. Four weeks later, another half-inch of dry soil can be swept into the remaining low spots. My feeling is that raising the soil an inch is all that you should attempt in one year.
FILLING HOLES There is a difference between low spots and deeper depressions in a lawn. Where your lawn is more than an inch lower than the surrounding soil it is best to lift what grass remains, fill the depression with the soil mix and lay the grass back in place. Water and fertilize as above.
COMMERCIAL SERVICES Several companies in Atlanta offer lawn leveling service. Some use an application of sand followed by a thorough aeration to mix the sand with the underlying soil. Others use proprietary techniques and mixtures. Before hiring a company to level your lawn, ask for a list of properties they have recently worked on. Visit the properties to see if their situation originally matched your own and determine if the results of leveling meet your expectations.
Don’t let low spots make lawn maintenance harder than it already is. Fill the low spots with a soil mix that matches what you have and bring the summer to a close with a much less lumpy lawn."
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http:// www.walterreeves.com
lawn, care, organic, gardening, vegetables
Hi Folks, Today I thought we might return to basics and consider what practical steps we can take to make sure our Lawns are perfectly smooth, without bumps and holes. There is nothing worse to spoil the look of a Lawn, and it is all the more sad when, with a little corrective action, the problem can be cured.
So - what needs to be done? What practical actions can be taken?
Well, have a look at this Article by Walter Reeves at http://www.walterreeves.com and follow his advice.
"A new home in my neighborhood had new bermudagrass sod planted before it in March. In May one area was a perfect checkerboard of straight lines, composed of weedy plants, surrounding the individual squares of sod.
Evidently the sod installers were in such a hurry to get it down they failed to butt the pieces tightly together. The result was a one inch wide valley between sod pieces, which provided an excellent home for chickweed and annual bluegrass seed to sprout.
Besides the low strips, the hasty installation also left a couple of big tire ruts in the lawn. Each time the home’s grass is mown the lawnmower scalps adjoining turf when its wheels drop into the depressions.
Lumps and low spots are common in new lawns but they can occur in established turf too. All it takes is a couple of kids riding bikes across grass made squishy by a heavy rain and long ruts will be evident for months.
Dave Jones, in Lilburn, recently asked me for advice on leveling his lawn so I have pulled together my best advice.
NOT PURE SAND It is easy for a homeowner to level a lawn. The first task, however, is to unlearn what you see at a golf course. There, sand is commonly used to fill divots made by golf clubs. Since the soil beneath has a high percentage of sand, adding sand to the damaged spot doesn’t change the structural characteristics of the soil.
Normals lawns, though, are not built with a soil mix approved by United States Golf Association. We typically have soil that contains lots of clay. If you add pure sand on top of clay the drainage and growth characteristics of the soil are disjointed. Grass growing in the sand is more susceptible to drought and cold injury. Internal soil drainage is worsened.
HALF AND HALF You can easily make your own lawn patching soil by mixing sand and planting soil in a 1:1 proportion in your wheelbarrow. Some of the retail soil companies have gone so far as to package and sell such a mixture specifically labeled for lawn leveling.
MULTI-PERSON JOB Spreading the leveling mix into low areas can be a nice family activity. One person drives the wheelbarrow while the other wields the shovel to scatter dry soil mixture in the low areas. A third can use a broom to sweep the soil off the grass and into place. Only add one-half inch of soil to the low spots at one time, leaving most green grass leaves showing through. Some areas may still be too low but you need to allow the grass grow up through the soil for at least a month.
After leveling, fertilize lightly (except fescue lawns in summer) and water the lawn thoroughly. Four weeks later, another half-inch of dry soil can be swept into the remaining low spots. My feeling is that raising the soil an inch is all that you should attempt in one year.
FILLING HOLES There is a difference between low spots and deeper depressions in a lawn. Where your lawn is more than an inch lower than the surrounding soil it is best to lift what grass remains, fill the depression with the soil mix and lay the grass back in place. Water and fertilize as above.
COMMERCIAL SERVICES Several companies in Atlanta offer lawn leveling service. Some use an application of sand followed by a thorough aeration to mix the sand with the underlying soil. Others use proprietary techniques and mixtures. Before hiring a company to level your lawn, ask for a list of properties they have recently worked on. Visit the properties to see if their situation originally matched your own and determine if the results of leveling meet your expectations.
Don’t let low spots make lawn maintenance harder than it already is. Fill the low spots with a soil mix that matches what you have and bring the summer to a close with a much less lumpy lawn."
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http:// www.walterreeves.com
lawn, care, organic, gardening, vegetables
Tuesday, May 22, 2007
Garden Plants That Attract Birds
lawn, gardening, organic, birds
In concentrating as we do on the subject of Lawn Care, I suspect that we often are guilty of missing the bigger picture with regard to our gardens. For example, a lawn does not just sit in splendid isolation, but should be part of the scenic "whole" garden. Thus we need to ensure the surrounding context - plants, flowers, insects, birds and so on - are equally attended to, so that a harmonic balance is achieved. Only by so doing will we create the true harmonic "whole entity" that is a true garden.
On this point, I came across this Article by Rosemary Drisdelle at http://bird-habitats.suite101.com on the subject of attracting Birds by planting the appropriate trees and shrubs. It is fresh and thought provoking and I recommend it to you!
Gardeners often choose garden plants that are attractive to birds. Here's a sampling of plants of various types that you might use.
If you’re thinking about putting some plants in your backyard bird habitat that will bring in more birds, you’ll need to think about how much space you have and what will grow well in your area. Here are eight suggestions to get you thinking:
Crabapple: a tall spreading flowering tree that grows well in most parts of North America and much of Europe and Asia. The small fruit are eaten by birds and other wildlife, and the high dense branches provide roosting and nesting sites. Crabapples need a lot of space.
Hawthorn: a small tree suited to smaller yards. Hawthorn has fruit on its branches in the colder months, so it can be an important source of food for birds in winter. It also provides good nesting sites and cover from predators. Cardinals and Cedar Waxwings, among other birds, are attracted to hawthorn.
Elderberry: a tall shrub that produces delicate flowers and abundant small fruits—a good plant to grow if your soil is moist. Cedar Waxwings, Rose-breasted Grosbeaks, Gray Catbirds, and dozens of other species of birds visit elderberry for food, nesting sites, or shelter.
Currant: a smaller shrub that produces flowers to attract hummingbirds, and fruit that draws American Robins, California Thrashers, and Hermit Thrushes. Birds that nest near the ground in dense bushes will use a currant bush. A number of species of currant are available, many of which are very drought tolerant.
Honeysuckle: a vine, and a favorite of hummingbirds. A large healthy honeysuckle will also provide lots of insects for birds to eat, fruit that is attractive to blue birds, and sheltered nesting sites.
Rose: shrubs or climbers that flower beautifully while providing insects for food in summer and rosehips in winter. Cardinals and sparrows are noted for visiting roses. The dense thorny growth of many roses provides good protective cover for birds, and safe nesting sites as well.
Sunflowers: tall showy annual flowers that produce a favorite food of many birds—sunflower seeds. The plants stand in the garden well into the fall for birds to visit, or you can harvest the seed and put it out in a feeder all winter.
Butterfly weed: a tall perennial known for attracting butterflies—and it's also a favorite host plant for growing caterpillars. A garden full of butterflies and caterpillars is beautiful in its own right, but it also attracts insect eating birds.
When choosing plants to attract birds to your garden, be sure to consult a local garden specialist to be sure your choices are appropriate for conditions in your area. As well, don’t forget that using herbicides and insecticides in your garden can create a toxic environment for birds and reduce their food supply by killing worms, insects, and other invertebrates. To enjoy lots of birds and butterflies in your garden, switch to chemical free gardening methods.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://bird-habitats.suite101.com
lawn, gardening, organic, birds
In concentrating as we do on the subject of Lawn Care, I suspect that we often are guilty of missing the bigger picture with regard to our gardens. For example, a lawn does not just sit in splendid isolation, but should be part of the scenic "whole" garden. Thus we need to ensure the surrounding context - plants, flowers, insects, birds and so on - are equally attended to, so that a harmonic balance is achieved. Only by so doing will we create the true harmonic "whole entity" that is a true garden.
On this point, I came across this Article by Rosemary Drisdelle at http://bird-habitats.suite101.com on the subject of attracting Birds by planting the appropriate trees and shrubs. It is fresh and thought provoking and I recommend it to you!
Gardeners often choose garden plants that are attractive to birds. Here's a sampling of plants of various types that you might use.
If you’re thinking about putting some plants in your backyard bird habitat that will bring in more birds, you’ll need to think about how much space you have and what will grow well in your area. Here are eight suggestions to get you thinking:
Crabapple: a tall spreading flowering tree that grows well in most parts of North America and much of Europe and Asia. The small fruit are eaten by birds and other wildlife, and the high dense branches provide roosting and nesting sites. Crabapples need a lot of space.
Hawthorn: a small tree suited to smaller yards. Hawthorn has fruit on its branches in the colder months, so it can be an important source of food for birds in winter. It also provides good nesting sites and cover from predators. Cardinals and Cedar Waxwings, among other birds, are attracted to hawthorn.
Elderberry: a tall shrub that produces delicate flowers and abundant small fruits—a good plant to grow if your soil is moist. Cedar Waxwings, Rose-breasted Grosbeaks, Gray Catbirds, and dozens of other species of birds visit elderberry for food, nesting sites, or shelter.
Currant: a smaller shrub that produces flowers to attract hummingbirds, and fruit that draws American Robins, California Thrashers, and Hermit Thrushes. Birds that nest near the ground in dense bushes will use a currant bush. A number of species of currant are available, many of which are very drought tolerant.
Honeysuckle: a vine, and a favorite of hummingbirds. A large healthy honeysuckle will also provide lots of insects for birds to eat, fruit that is attractive to blue birds, and sheltered nesting sites.
Rose: shrubs or climbers that flower beautifully while providing insects for food in summer and rosehips in winter. Cardinals and sparrows are noted for visiting roses. The dense thorny growth of many roses provides good protective cover for birds, and safe nesting sites as well.
Sunflowers: tall showy annual flowers that produce a favorite food of many birds—sunflower seeds. The plants stand in the garden well into the fall for birds to visit, or you can harvest the seed and put it out in a feeder all winter.
Butterfly weed: a tall perennial known for attracting butterflies—and it's also a favorite host plant for growing caterpillars. A garden full of butterflies and caterpillars is beautiful in its own right, but it also attracts insect eating birds.
When choosing plants to attract birds to your garden, be sure to consult a local garden specialist to be sure your choices are appropriate for conditions in your area. As well, don’t forget that using herbicides and insecticides in your garden can create a toxic environment for birds and reduce their food supply by killing worms, insects, and other invertebrates. To enjoy lots of birds and butterflies in your garden, switch to chemical free gardening methods.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://bird-habitats.suite101.com
lawn, gardening, organic, birds
Monday, May 21, 2007
Natural Garden Care
lawn, gardening, organic, care
Hi guys! As you are all aware, there is great interest in Organic (Natural) gardening these days. This usually means using natural fertilizing methods, but the Subject is wider than that. I spotted this Article by Francine Stephens at www.checnet.org which is thought provoking and full of basic commonsense. I recommend it to you!
Gardening with your children can be a wonderful way to share your experience of nature with them in an educational and fun setting. Children love to dig in the dirt, make mud pies, and search for bugs. Children also enjoy planting seeds, watching them grow and eating what they have grown. By cultivating their curiosity, you can help your children to develop a life-long love, and respect, for nature.
Healthy soil is the raw material from which a healthy garden can grow. If we allow the soil to retain its natural organic matter, minerals and microorganisms that make the soil a living substance, it will be able to ward off most weeds, insects and disease naturally.
Organic gardening is based on this principle. In an organic garden, synthetic fertilizers and pesticides are not used, but natural fertilizers and pest controls that do not interfere with the health of the garden ecosystem are permitted.
The basic tenets of organic gardening include the following:
CompostingCompost is a rich organic material that results from decomposing organic matter. Mixing compost into garden soil replenishes it with nutrients and organic matter. Compost is easy to make. Simply collect organic material from your kitchen, such as vegetable and fruit waste and garden trimmings, such as fallen leaves and grass clippings, and pile it in a heap outdoors or in a compost bin. This organic matter decomposes with the help of bacteria and heat. What’s left after a few months is call "Black Gold" by some gardeners.
While compost and other organic material release nutrients slowly, they are much safer for the environment and gardens than synthetic fertilizers. Synthetic fertilizers give plants a quick boost, but overuse can result in acidification of soil and does nothing to replace the organic matter which gives substance to soil and supports organisms necessary to soil building.
Aeration of the soilHealthy soil also needs air, which feeds the organisms and microorganisms that break down organic matter to release nutrients. By avoiding pesticides and keeping the soil full of organic material, your garden will be a rich habitat for earthworms. They’ll aerate your soil as well as break down organic matter. You can also use a broad fork to aerate once a year.
Plant diversity When you plant a variety of species in your garden, you encourage genetic diversity, which leads to more successful adaptation in the face of threats by insects and disease. Plant varieties can be more or less attractive to pests as well as garden helpers, such as butterflies and bees. By keeping the garden diverse, your garden ecosystem will be more balanced.
Crop rotation Rotating the location of various types of plants in your garden from year to year prevents the soil from being depleted of nutrients. Corn uses up lots of nitrogen, while legumes put nitrogen back into soil. Planting corn in the same location year after year is likely to result in poorer harvests as time goes due to insufficient nitrogen in the soil. Rotating the corn to another location in the garden prevents the soil from being exhausted of nitrogen. Rotation of plants also prevents soil diseases from taking hold.
Use of cover crops At the end of each season, plant cover crops like clover, rye or alfalfa. They protect soil, keep it from becoming compacted, and can be tilled under to add nutrients back into the soil.
"Companion planting" Planting your vegetables next to other plants that have different odors and root secretions, will help to divert pests away from your plants. Marigolds and tomatoes for example are a good combination. Garlic also helps drive away some insects.
Manual weeding Regular hoeing will control weeds and keep plants healthy and more resistant to insects. Other means of eliminating weeds naturally include pouring boiling water over weeds and using specialized tools, such as a dandelion digger–a long, sharp tool that penetrates as far as dandelion roots do. Using mulch around plants also keeps weeds from sprouting and competing with garden plants.
All gardens will have some pestsTolerating minor flaws and blemishes on fruit and vegetables does not diminish the nutritional value of the food. Garden pests should not be regarded as enemies, rather as indicators of plant stress, letting you know that something is not right. Sick plants attract predators, and an infestation should be signal that your garden ecosystem is out of balance. Adding beneficial insects, such as ladybugs or lacewings boost the predator populations and keep problem insects in check. Too much or too little water, fertilizer, sun, etc., may cause disease.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: www.checnet.org
lawn care, organic, gardening
Hi guys! As you are all aware, there is great interest in Organic (Natural) gardening these days. This usually means using natural fertilizing methods, but the Subject is wider than that. I spotted this Article by Francine Stephens at www.checnet.org which is thought provoking and full of basic commonsense. I recommend it to you!
Gardening with your children can be a wonderful way to share your experience of nature with them in an educational and fun setting. Children love to dig in the dirt, make mud pies, and search for bugs. Children also enjoy planting seeds, watching them grow and eating what they have grown. By cultivating their curiosity, you can help your children to develop a life-long love, and respect, for nature.
Healthy soil is the raw material from which a healthy garden can grow. If we allow the soil to retain its natural organic matter, minerals and microorganisms that make the soil a living substance, it will be able to ward off most weeds, insects and disease naturally.
Organic gardening is based on this principle. In an organic garden, synthetic fertilizers and pesticides are not used, but natural fertilizers and pest controls that do not interfere with the health of the garden ecosystem are permitted.
The basic tenets of organic gardening include the following:
CompostingCompost is a rich organic material that results from decomposing organic matter. Mixing compost into garden soil replenishes it with nutrients and organic matter. Compost is easy to make. Simply collect organic material from your kitchen, such as vegetable and fruit waste and garden trimmings, such as fallen leaves and grass clippings, and pile it in a heap outdoors or in a compost bin. This organic matter decomposes with the help of bacteria and heat. What’s left after a few months is call "Black Gold" by some gardeners.
While compost and other organic material release nutrients slowly, they are much safer for the environment and gardens than synthetic fertilizers. Synthetic fertilizers give plants a quick boost, but overuse can result in acidification of soil and does nothing to replace the organic matter which gives substance to soil and supports organisms necessary to soil building.
Aeration of the soilHealthy soil also needs air, which feeds the organisms and microorganisms that break down organic matter to release nutrients. By avoiding pesticides and keeping the soil full of organic material, your garden will be a rich habitat for earthworms. They’ll aerate your soil as well as break down organic matter. You can also use a broad fork to aerate once a year.
Plant diversity When you plant a variety of species in your garden, you encourage genetic diversity, which leads to more successful adaptation in the face of threats by insects and disease. Plant varieties can be more or less attractive to pests as well as garden helpers, such as butterflies and bees. By keeping the garden diverse, your garden ecosystem will be more balanced.
Crop rotation Rotating the location of various types of plants in your garden from year to year prevents the soil from being depleted of nutrients. Corn uses up lots of nitrogen, while legumes put nitrogen back into soil. Planting corn in the same location year after year is likely to result in poorer harvests as time goes due to insufficient nitrogen in the soil. Rotating the corn to another location in the garden prevents the soil from being exhausted of nitrogen. Rotation of plants also prevents soil diseases from taking hold.
Use of cover crops At the end of each season, plant cover crops like clover, rye or alfalfa. They protect soil, keep it from becoming compacted, and can be tilled under to add nutrients back into the soil.
"Companion planting" Planting your vegetables next to other plants that have different odors and root secretions, will help to divert pests away from your plants. Marigolds and tomatoes for example are a good combination. Garlic also helps drive away some insects.
Manual weeding Regular hoeing will control weeds and keep plants healthy and more resistant to insects. Other means of eliminating weeds naturally include pouring boiling water over weeds and using specialized tools, such as a dandelion digger–a long, sharp tool that penetrates as far as dandelion roots do. Using mulch around plants also keeps weeds from sprouting and competing with garden plants.
All gardens will have some pestsTolerating minor flaws and blemishes on fruit and vegetables does not diminish the nutritional value of the food. Garden pests should not be regarded as enemies, rather as indicators of plant stress, letting you know that something is not right. Sick plants attract predators, and an infestation should be signal that your garden ecosystem is out of balance. Adding beneficial insects, such as ladybugs or lacewings boost the predator populations and keep problem insects in check. Too much or too little water, fertilizer, sun, etc., may cause disease.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: www.checnet.org
lawn care, organic, gardening
Thursday, May 03, 2007
Feeding and Weeding Your Lawn With Chemicals
Lawn care, chemicals, organic, gardening,
Hi Guys, here in the UK we are having Local Government Elections today. Last chance to kick Mr Blair in the goolies before he retires to the multi-million dollar lecture circuit. Or possibly he will con some poor bastard into funding his Messianic programme to save the World. Last chance guys. Get out there and vote!
On to nicer subjects, I came across this Article on Chemical feeding and weeding, which I will recommend to you. The Article comes from www.gardenaction.co.uk and is worth a read. Pity we couldn't have used the process to weed out the so-called (allegedly) Government graft.
"There are three readily available lawn feed compounds, each designed for a specific purpose. These are:
1. Spring and summer feed compound. This is rich in nitrogen with a small amount of phosphates. This should be applied in spring when the grass begins to put on some growth.
2. Autumn / fall feed compound. This is rich in phosphates with little nitrogen. This should be applied in autumn when the grass starts to grow more slowly.
3. Lawn sand. This is a mixture of ammonium sulphate, iron sulphate and fine sand. it is used to kill a wide variety of weeds and is especially good at preventing and killing moss in lawns. Additionally it provides a long term tonic for your lawn and has a definite 'greening' effect. It is normally applied in late spring but where moss is a problem it can also be applied in summer.
Study the instructions carefully before applying any of the above treatments because over-application will result in damage to your lawn. If the lawn suffers from over-application, water it very well for a day and in all likelihood it will recover.
Apply the treatments when the weather is dry but there is the prospect of rain in a day or so. If rain does not appear, water well for a day. Do NOT apply any of the above to a new lawn - wait 12 months for a seed sown lawn and 6 months for a turf / sod laid lawn.
When choosing any of the above, go for a well-known name and you will be OK. In general, all the brands are the same, they merely vary the balance of the chemicals slightly. One exception however is that some brands have slow release formulas which release the chemicals into the lawn over a longer time than standard varieties. It is well worth paying the extra money for these brands.
How To Apply Fertiliser
Whichever method you choose, it is essential that the treatment is applied evenly to avoid scorching the lawn in places.
APPLICATION BY HAND
First rule is use gloves and wash your hands afterward - remember, you are using dangerous chemicals. The best method is to use half going up and down the lawn then use the other half going crossways across the lawn.
LIQUID APPLICATION
Normally this means adding the treatment to a specific amount of water in a watering can. Sometimes, there are attachments for hoses. This method is quick acting and less likely to cause scorching.
MECHANICAL APPLICATION
The treatment is added to a container in a wheeled trolley which dispenses the chemicals evenly as the trolley is moved along. If the instructions are followed, this method ensures even distribution."
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: www.gardenaction.co.uk.com
lawn care, chemicals, organic, gardening
Hi Guys, here in the UK we are having Local Government Elections today. Last chance to kick Mr Blair in the goolies before he retires to the multi-million dollar lecture circuit. Or possibly he will con some poor bastard into funding his Messianic programme to save the World. Last chance guys. Get out there and vote!
On to nicer subjects, I came across this Article on Chemical feeding and weeding, which I will recommend to you. The Article comes from www.gardenaction.co.uk and is worth a read. Pity we couldn't have used the process to weed out the so-called (allegedly) Government graft.
"There are three readily available lawn feed compounds, each designed for a specific purpose. These are:
1. Spring and summer feed compound. This is rich in nitrogen with a small amount of phosphates. This should be applied in spring when the grass begins to put on some growth.
2. Autumn / fall feed compound. This is rich in phosphates with little nitrogen. This should be applied in autumn when the grass starts to grow more slowly.
3. Lawn sand. This is a mixture of ammonium sulphate, iron sulphate and fine sand. it is used to kill a wide variety of weeds and is especially good at preventing and killing moss in lawns. Additionally it provides a long term tonic for your lawn and has a definite 'greening' effect. It is normally applied in late spring but where moss is a problem it can also be applied in summer.
Study the instructions carefully before applying any of the above treatments because over-application will result in damage to your lawn. If the lawn suffers from over-application, water it very well for a day and in all likelihood it will recover.
Apply the treatments when the weather is dry but there is the prospect of rain in a day or so. If rain does not appear, water well for a day. Do NOT apply any of the above to a new lawn - wait 12 months for a seed sown lawn and 6 months for a turf / sod laid lawn.
When choosing any of the above, go for a well-known name and you will be OK. In general, all the brands are the same, they merely vary the balance of the chemicals slightly. One exception however is that some brands have slow release formulas which release the chemicals into the lawn over a longer time than standard varieties. It is well worth paying the extra money for these brands.
How To Apply Fertiliser
Whichever method you choose, it is essential that the treatment is applied evenly to avoid scorching the lawn in places.
APPLICATION BY HAND
First rule is use gloves and wash your hands afterward - remember, you are using dangerous chemicals. The best method is to use half going up and down the lawn then use the other half going crossways across the lawn.
LIQUID APPLICATION
Normally this means adding the treatment to a specific amount of water in a watering can. Sometimes, there are attachments for hoses. This method is quick acting and less likely to cause scorching.
MECHANICAL APPLICATION
The treatment is added to a container in a wheeled trolley which dispenses the chemicals evenly as the trolley is moved along. If the instructions are followed, this method ensures even distribution."
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: www.gardenaction.co.uk.com
lawn care, chemicals, organic, gardening
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My Ficus Ginseng Plant!
Cool or What?