Gardening with vinegar has many uses and benefits and best of all, it is safe to use, doesn't harm the environment, is freely available and it is cheap! It really is, therefore your organic and eco-friendly pesticide, insecticide, and herbicide.
Here you will learn about these benefits and pick up a few tips along the way. It can also be used full-strength or diluted depending on the job at hand. It can also be used quite readily in the kitchen, bathroom and other areas of the house, but today, we are going to just concentrate on the outside areas. One word of warning, however, remember that when it is all said and done, you are working with acid, so make sure you protect your eyes. So what exactly can vinegar do for you?
First of all, for those of you who are plagued by pests and little critters in the garden, fret no more. It will keep cats at bay if you spray in areas you want to deter them, particularly that sand-pit you may have in the garden for the children but those cats will insist on using as their own private toilet! Heavily spray full-strength vinegar around the edges of the sandpit and remember to re-apply after it rains.
Are those rabbits eating your vegetables, particularly your beans and peas? Soak corncobs in full strength vinegar for a couple of hours until they are thoroughly soaked. You may even soak them over-night if you wish. Then place the cobs strategically around your veggie patch. They will keep rabbits away for as long as you re-soak your corncobs every two weeks.
Do you have an ant problem? Again you can apply this full-strength to the ants and they will not come anywhere near the stuff. This is very useful if you find a trail of them making a way into your house. Just spray the thresholds and reapply every couple of days to ensure that they stay away.
Slugs are real pests, because they eat both vegetables, especially lettuces and plants, especially hostas. In this case, vinegar acts as a poison to the slugs because, if you spray slugs with it directly, they will die. You can treat snails in exactly the same way. However, because vinegar is also a herbicide, be careful where you spray your vinegar. Salvias for example will die, if they are sprayed as a casualty.
Are your fruit trees being invaded by fruit flies? Try this fruit fly bait, which is deadly and effective. Take 1 cup of water, a half a cup of cider vinegar, a quarter of a cup of sugar and 1 tablespoon of molasses. Mix it all together. Take old tin cans without their lids and make two holes in opposite ends for wire handles. Attach the handles and add an inch of the mixture to each can. Hang 2 - 3 tins in each tree. Check on the traps on a regular basis to refill and clean when necessary.
After you have been digging in the garden with your gardening tools, soak them in a bucket of half-strength vinegar. This will act as a fungicide and kill off anything that may be lurking unsuspectingly so that there is no possibility of cross-contamination when you use them next.
Are your garden plants struggling and your roses suffering from black spot or other fungal diseases? Take 2 tablespoons of white vinegar and mix it with 4 litres of compost tea. Now spray your garden plants with this mixture and see the difference. For roses, the method is slightly different. Take 3 tablespoons of cider vinegar, and mix it with 4 litres of water to control those fungal diseases. Of course, don't forget the compost tea either on your roses to get the best results. For powdery mildew take 2-3 tablespoons of cider vinegar and mix with 4 litres of water and spray your plants. This will help control the problem.
What about your acid-living plants like azaleas, gardenias and rhododendrons? Are they flowering as well as they could be? If not, increase the soil's acidity. In hard water areas, add 1 cup of vinegar to 4 litres of tap water. It will also release iron into the soil for the plants to use. And if you have too much lime in your garden, add vinegar to neutralize it.
Do you have weeds coming up in between your paving slabs on our driveway or pathway that you cannot remove by hand? Don't use a herbicide that is know to damage the environment. Use an eco-friendly alternative instead. Take 1 litre of boiled water, 2 tablespoons of salt and 5 tablespoons of vinegar. Mix altogether, and whilst still hot, pour onto the offending plants.
Did you know that you can improve your germination success rate of seeds by using vinegar? This is especially useful for those seeds that are more difficult to germinate such as asparagus and okra, morning glories and moonflowers. Rub the seeds gently first between two pieces of coarse sandpaper. Then soak the seeds overnight in 500 ml of warm water, 125 ml of vinegar and a squirt of washing-up liquid. Plant the next day as normal. You can use the same method, but without the sandpaper for nasturtiums, parsley, beetroot, and parsnips.
And finally, are your chickens pecking each other? Add a tablespoon of cider vinegar to their drinking water, and they will stop!
Written by Kathryn Bax, owner and web site developer of Country Living and Farm Lifestyles: A Worldwide Farmers' Market for Farm Food, Farm Accommodation, Game Farms, Wine Farms, Farming Jobs, Farm Swaps, Rural Services, Country Living and much, much more. Buy local and support your local farmers.
http://www.countryfarm-lifestyles.com/
Showing posts with label lawn mowers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lawn mowers. Show all posts
Saturday, November 29, 2008
Sunday, November 02, 2008
Diary of a Silver Surfer
Hi again folks.......well did you miss me? the story is that when I set this Blog up i was officially retired.
Sadly, with the recent financial chaos, i had to go back to work to earn a crust and pay the mortgage! Result .... one 66 year old working 11 hour shifts in a Call Centre to supplement a pathetic State Pension.
Give me strength. we are over taxed, overlooked, over bureaucratised, spied on, treble taxed, and our opinions trodden underfoot.
And don't tell me this is a Democracy -- you can just vote them out. Do me a favour. Do you honestly believe things will change under a different Government?
My friend Democracy is dead in U.K. The idea that an Englishman's home is his castle has disappeared for ever. Have you any idea how many faceless people can invade your home without a warrant?
Do you know how many "refugees" are living among us sucking the life blood out of the State Benefit System I paid into for 50 years and which has singularly failed to
keep its promise to me and people of my generation.
I have thought hard about this and have decided to re-start my gardening Blog today. With a cutting edge of comment added to it.
In fact, I may even start a new Blog or Newsletter for Silver surfers like me who want to be heard by an unelected unrepresentative bunch of crooks called politicians,
whose noses are stuck so firmly in the trough that they breath through their backsides and can't see the real World at all!
And don't get me started about the EC. I'll keep that one for another day.
Meantime, if there is anyone out there reading this who feels like me and wants to vent their frustration drop a comment on this article and i will get back to you.
On gardening issues, here is an article you may be interested in provided by our friends at http://www.tipsonflowergardening.com/winter-flowers.html
"Quick. Name 10 winter flowers....!
Yes, I know, it depends where you live. For instance, if you look out your window and see snow drifts big enough to hide a dog, you will have to settle for indoor winter flowers. But if you live in a zone that allows outdoor plants to bloom year round, then here are some gorgeous winter flowers.
Witch hazel (Hamamelis spp.) is a winter-flowering shrub. These shrubs can grow to a height of 20 feet and they bloom from late fall through the winter. The Hamamelis virginiana variety is native to North America and has yellow-gold flowers and leaves. Yes, the astringent witch hazel comes from this plant but it offers great winter color.
Japanese pieris (Pieris japonica) is another shrub that blooms in winter. The blooms are strands of buds in bright red, white or pink. The leaves are bright green.
Christmas roses (or Lenton roses) (Helleborus spp.) bloom in mid to late winter. They have dark green leaves and cup-shaped blooms in maroon, pink, white or red. As the bloom get older, they fade to a creamy ivory color.
Glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa lucillae) provides star-shaped flowers. This plant grows from bulbs and there is a trick to keeping it blooming year after year. After the blooms stop, don’t mow the lawn for six week. This lets the bulbs pull the necessary energy from the lawn so that it can bloom again next winter.
Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) is a shrub with yellow jasmine blossoms that bloom from late fall and the winter. It can grow to a height of 15 feet and makes a great trellis-trained plant.
Firethorn (Pyracantha) is a good companion winter flower for the winter jasmine. It grows berries in bright red or pale yellow. Don’t prune it because this will trim off the potential berries.
There are early bulbs that qualify as winter flowers because given the right circumstances, they will blossom early enough to be in your garden when the snow is still there. Some of the favorite early blooming bulbs are crocus, amaryllis, hyacinth, tulip, and narcissus. A couple of other contenders are snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) and the reticulated iris (Iris reticulata).
What you need to remember about winter flowers is that they are not going to be great big beds of various colorful flowers. Technically most of them are shrubs. You can check to see which ones will flourish in your area and try one or two. Even bright shiny green leaves in February can be quite attractive."
Sadly, with the recent financial chaos, i had to go back to work to earn a crust and pay the mortgage! Result .... one 66 year old working 11 hour shifts in a Call Centre to supplement a pathetic State Pension.
Give me strength. we are over taxed, overlooked, over bureaucratised, spied on, treble taxed, and our opinions trodden underfoot.
And don't tell me this is a Democracy -- you can just vote them out. Do me a favour. Do you honestly believe things will change under a different Government?
My friend Democracy is dead in U.K. The idea that an Englishman's home is his castle has disappeared for ever. Have you any idea how many faceless people can invade your home without a warrant?
Do you know how many "refugees" are living among us sucking the life blood out of the State Benefit System I paid into for 50 years and which has singularly failed to
keep its promise to me and people of my generation.
I have thought hard about this and have decided to re-start my gardening Blog today. With a cutting edge of comment added to it.
In fact, I may even start a new Blog or Newsletter for Silver surfers like me who want to be heard by an unelected unrepresentative bunch of crooks called politicians,
whose noses are stuck so firmly in the trough that they breath through their backsides and can't see the real World at all!
And don't get me started about the EC. I'll keep that one for another day.
Meantime, if there is anyone out there reading this who feels like me and wants to vent their frustration drop a comment on this article and i will get back to you.
On gardening issues, here is an article you may be interested in provided by our friends at http://www.tipsonflowergardening.com/winter-flowers.html
"Quick. Name 10 winter flowers....!
Yes, I know, it depends where you live. For instance, if you look out your window and see snow drifts big enough to hide a dog, you will have to settle for indoor winter flowers. But if you live in a zone that allows outdoor plants to bloom year round, then here are some gorgeous winter flowers.
Witch hazel (Hamamelis spp.) is a winter-flowering shrub. These shrubs can grow to a height of 20 feet and they bloom from late fall through the winter. The Hamamelis virginiana variety is native to North America and has yellow-gold flowers and leaves. Yes, the astringent witch hazel comes from this plant but it offers great winter color.
Japanese pieris (Pieris japonica) is another shrub that blooms in winter. The blooms are strands of buds in bright red, white or pink. The leaves are bright green.
Christmas roses (or Lenton roses) (Helleborus spp.) bloom in mid to late winter. They have dark green leaves and cup-shaped blooms in maroon, pink, white or red. As the bloom get older, they fade to a creamy ivory color.
Glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa lucillae) provides star-shaped flowers. This plant grows from bulbs and there is a trick to keeping it blooming year after year. After the blooms stop, don’t mow the lawn for six week. This lets the bulbs pull the necessary energy from the lawn so that it can bloom again next winter.
Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) is a shrub with yellow jasmine blossoms that bloom from late fall and the winter. It can grow to a height of 15 feet and makes a great trellis-trained plant.
Firethorn (Pyracantha) is a good companion winter flower for the winter jasmine. It grows berries in bright red or pale yellow. Don’t prune it because this will trim off the potential berries.
There are early bulbs that qualify as winter flowers because given the right circumstances, they will blossom early enough to be in your garden when the snow is still there. Some of the favorite early blooming bulbs are crocus, amaryllis, hyacinth, tulip, and narcissus. A couple of other contenders are snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) and the reticulated iris (Iris reticulata).
What you need to remember about winter flowers is that they are not going to be great big beds of various colorful flowers. Technically most of them are shrubs. You can check to see which ones will flourish in your area and try one or two. Even bright shiny green leaves in February can be quite attractive."
Sunday, September 09, 2007
Key Gardening Jobs for Autumn!
Well, the nights are drawing in here in England and there is a slight chill in the air. September is here and Autumn is upon us once more. I thought this "To Do" list
might help in jogging a few memories of things to do around the garden at this time of year.
Early Autumn
. Bring in tender plants under cover before the first frosts
. Plant or move evergreens and conifers, while the soil is still warm
. Plant spring bedding, such as wallflowers and polyanthus
. Plant spring bulbs
Mid Autumn
. Tidy perennials, removing dead stems but leaving seed-heads for birds to eat
. Plant deciduous trees, shrubs and climbers
. Lay new lawns, so long as soil is not too wet
. Batten down the hatches, ensuring nothing can blow about and cause damage on windy nights.
Late Autumn
. Plant shrubs, roses and hedging plants sold with bare roots
. Clear up fallen leaves and compost them
. Plant tulips and hyacinths
. Move deciduous trees and shrubs once they have lost their leaves
. Take hardwood cuttings from shrubs and roses
Thursday, September 06, 2007
Ornamental Grasses- Care and Maintenance!
I am often asked questions about care of Ornamental Grass in the garden. I came across this excellent Article by the University of Illinois at http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/grasses/understanding.html
which sheds light on the whole subject and which I recommend to all gardeners.
"With the popularity of ornamental grasses and their use in the landscape, it is a good idea to understand how these plants grow. This understanding will lead to better use of these plants and often avoid disappointment or frustration.
Grasses respond and start to grow based upon temperature. Some grasses will start to grow in early spring when temperatures are still cool and others will wait until the soil is warm and temperatures are more stable.
Cool Season Grasses
Cool season grass will start to grow early in the spring and may even remain semi-evergreen over the winter. Cool season grasses also seem to do better and have better foliage quality when temperatures are cool or if they are given sufficient water during drought periods. If they are not watered during drought, they tend to go dormant resulting in brown foliage.
These grasses may require more frequent division to keep them healthy looking and vigorous. If not, they tend to die out in the center. For the ones that remain semi-evergreen, you should only cut off the brown or winter injured foliage in the spring. Some of the more popular cool season grasses include, Fescues, Blue Oat Grass (Helictotrichon), Tufted Hair Grass (Deschampsia), and Autumn Moor Grass (Sesleria).
Warm Season Grasses
Warm season grasses will do better during warmer times of the year and remain good looking even when temperatures are high and moisture is limited. Warm season grasses do not begin to show growth until the weather becomes stable and the soils warm. The previous seasons growth usually browns out in the fall requiring the cutting back of plants to about 4-6 inches in the spring.
Warm season grasses usually do not require as much regular division as cool season grasses. Some warm season grasses include Northern Sea Oats (Chasmanthium), Japanese Silver Grass (Miscanthus sp.), Hardy Pampas Grass (Erianthus), Perennial Fountain Grass (Pennisetum), Switch Grass (Panicum) and Prairie Cord Grass (Spartina).
Growth Habits
Before planting you should also understand the growth habit of the grass. Grasses can be either clump forming or rhizome forming. The latter is often called "running" grass. The clump forming grasses will grow in very nice, neat mounds or clumps. They tend to mix very well with other perennials and will not become invasive. They will increase in girth slowly over time.
The rhizome forming grasses spread by underground stems and can become very aggressive and invasive. These grasses have their place but it may not be in a well-tended perennial border since they can soon take over an entire area. Before selecting a grass, be sure to understand how it grows so you won’t be planting a future problem. Some attractive but aggressive grasses include Blue Lymegrass, Cordgrass, and Ribbongrass.
Fertilizer
As with any other perennial, success depends greatly on soil preparation before planting and having good drainage. Ideally, the planting areas should be prepared in the fall, beginning with deep tilling of the soil. Fall tillage facilitates freezing and thawing action during the winter, and improves soil tilth and workability. If this is not possible, spring tillage is also satisfactory.
Incorporate ample organic matter during the tillage process. Ornamental grasses do not require high amounts of fertilizer. Adding about one pound of a general-purpose fertilizer (like 10-10-10) during soil preparation per 100 sq. ft. of planting bed should be sufficient.
Ornamental grasses can be planted in the spring or the fall. The advantage of spring planting is to give the plants adequate time to develop a good root system before winter. Fall planting is often not as reliable without some additional precautions, particularly in years with early or severe winters. You should try to complete fall planting during August and September.
Then provide a light cover of straw or hay during the first winter for best results. Apply the mulch after several hard frosts. Plants should be planted no deeper than their previous growing depths and should be well watered after planting. Maintaining uniform soil moisture around the plant hastens establishment. Plants planted too deep tend to develop root diseases or simply rot in the ground.
Ornamental grasses require relatively low levels of fertility. By keeping the level of nitrogen low, lodging or flopping over can be kept to a minimum. Leaf color and vigour are good guides to nitrogen requirements. Application of one-half to one pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 sq. ft. of garden area or about one-quarter cup per plant is sufficient. Apply fertilizer just as growth resumes in the spring. An application of a slow release fertilizer in the spring is enough to take care of the plant's needs throughout the summer. Fertilizer should be watered in thoroughly.
Water
Plants should be well watered the first season after planting so they can develop a good root system. Established plants do not need regular watering, but may need supplemental watering during drought periods. The amount of water will depend on the grass species, the site, and on the quality, size and growth rate desired.
Weed Control
Cultivate around grass plants to control weeds. Application of mulch will greatly reduce the need for cultivation as well as watering. It also tends to keep grasses in check that have a tendency to be heavy reseeding types.
Winter Protection and Spring Clean up
Grasses do not need to be cut down before winter. In fact, they are attractive when left standing and the foliage helps to insulate the crown of the plant. Cut back the foliage to about 4-6 inches in the spring before growth resumes. When foliage is removed, spring growth will begin earlier. Old foliage left on the plant can delay the crown’s warming and subsequent growth by as much as 3 weeks.
Division
Division depends on the spacing and visual appearance of the plants as well as the overall health. Plants suffering from die-out in the center should be divided to improve appearances. Division is done in the spring before growth resumes or in the late summer or fall after the growing season. Plants that bloom late could be divided in the spring."
which sheds light on the whole subject and which I recommend to all gardeners.
"With the popularity of ornamental grasses and their use in the landscape, it is a good idea to understand how these plants grow. This understanding will lead to better use of these plants and often avoid disappointment or frustration.
Grasses respond and start to grow based upon temperature. Some grasses will start to grow in early spring when temperatures are still cool and others will wait until the soil is warm and temperatures are more stable.
Cool Season Grasses
Cool season grass will start to grow early in the spring and may even remain semi-evergreen over the winter. Cool season grasses also seem to do better and have better foliage quality when temperatures are cool or if they are given sufficient water during drought periods. If they are not watered during drought, they tend to go dormant resulting in brown foliage.
These grasses may require more frequent division to keep them healthy looking and vigorous. If not, they tend to die out in the center. For the ones that remain semi-evergreen, you should only cut off the brown or winter injured foliage in the spring. Some of the more popular cool season grasses include, Fescues, Blue Oat Grass (Helictotrichon), Tufted Hair Grass (Deschampsia), and Autumn Moor Grass (Sesleria).
Warm Season Grasses
Warm season grasses will do better during warmer times of the year and remain good looking even when temperatures are high and moisture is limited. Warm season grasses do not begin to show growth until the weather becomes stable and the soils warm. The previous seasons growth usually browns out in the fall requiring the cutting back of plants to about 4-6 inches in the spring.
Warm season grasses usually do not require as much regular division as cool season grasses. Some warm season grasses include Northern Sea Oats (Chasmanthium), Japanese Silver Grass (Miscanthus sp.), Hardy Pampas Grass (Erianthus), Perennial Fountain Grass (Pennisetum), Switch Grass (Panicum) and Prairie Cord Grass (Spartina).
Growth Habits
Before planting you should also understand the growth habit of the grass. Grasses can be either clump forming or rhizome forming. The latter is often called "running" grass. The clump forming grasses will grow in very nice, neat mounds or clumps. They tend to mix very well with other perennials and will not become invasive. They will increase in girth slowly over time.
The rhizome forming grasses spread by underground stems and can become very aggressive and invasive. These grasses have their place but it may not be in a well-tended perennial border since they can soon take over an entire area. Before selecting a grass, be sure to understand how it grows so you won’t be planting a future problem. Some attractive but aggressive grasses include Blue Lymegrass, Cordgrass, and Ribbongrass.
Fertilizer
As with any other perennial, success depends greatly on soil preparation before planting and having good drainage. Ideally, the planting areas should be prepared in the fall, beginning with deep tilling of the soil. Fall tillage facilitates freezing and thawing action during the winter, and improves soil tilth and workability. If this is not possible, spring tillage is also satisfactory.
Incorporate ample organic matter during the tillage process. Ornamental grasses do not require high amounts of fertilizer. Adding about one pound of a general-purpose fertilizer (like 10-10-10) during soil preparation per 100 sq. ft. of planting bed should be sufficient.
Ornamental grasses can be planted in the spring or the fall. The advantage of spring planting is to give the plants adequate time to develop a good root system before winter. Fall planting is often not as reliable without some additional precautions, particularly in years with early or severe winters. You should try to complete fall planting during August and September.
Then provide a light cover of straw or hay during the first winter for best results. Apply the mulch after several hard frosts. Plants should be planted no deeper than their previous growing depths and should be well watered after planting. Maintaining uniform soil moisture around the plant hastens establishment. Plants planted too deep tend to develop root diseases or simply rot in the ground.
Ornamental grasses require relatively low levels of fertility. By keeping the level of nitrogen low, lodging or flopping over can be kept to a minimum. Leaf color and vigour are good guides to nitrogen requirements. Application of one-half to one pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 sq. ft. of garden area or about one-quarter cup per plant is sufficient. Apply fertilizer just as growth resumes in the spring. An application of a slow release fertilizer in the spring is enough to take care of the plant's needs throughout the summer. Fertilizer should be watered in thoroughly.
Water
Plants should be well watered the first season after planting so they can develop a good root system. Established plants do not need regular watering, but may need supplemental watering during drought periods. The amount of water will depend on the grass species, the site, and on the quality, size and growth rate desired.
Weed Control
Cultivate around grass plants to control weeds. Application of mulch will greatly reduce the need for cultivation as well as watering. It also tends to keep grasses in check that have a tendency to be heavy reseeding types.
Winter Protection and Spring Clean up
Grasses do not need to be cut down before winter. In fact, they are attractive when left standing and the foliage helps to insulate the crown of the plant. Cut back the foliage to about 4-6 inches in the spring before growth resumes. When foliage is removed, spring growth will begin earlier. Old foliage left on the plant can delay the crown’s warming and subsequent growth by as much as 3 weeks.
Division
Division depends on the spacing and visual appearance of the plants as well as the overall health. Plants suffering from die-out in the center should be divided to improve appearances. Division is done in the spring before growth resumes or in the late summer or fall after the growing season. Plants that bloom late could be divided in the spring."
Tuesday, September 04, 2007
How to Keep Cats Out of Your Garden!
Do cat repellents work? How do I stop cats from using my garden as a toilet? How can I keep cats out of my garden? These are among the most frequently asked questions by gardeners everywhere.
The first line of defence should be to ensure that your garden boundaries are secure. Any gaps in your fence should be blocked to deny low level access. Cats however can jump rather well and rather high, so fix a taut wire or string some six inches above the top of your fence to deter this approach.
Once inside your garden many people say that the best cat repellent is a dog who will soon see off any feline invader. That pre-supposes that you are a dog lover. If not, then you will have to resort to more passive methods. For example, cats like to lie on freshly dug soil, so you should lay mulch on your borders so that no bare soil is left exposed. Seed beds should be covered with wire netting or twigs arranged as a barrier.
Young trees should have plastic guards fitted around their trunks to protect them against use as a scratching pole. Your garden pond should be covered with netting to keep your fish safe.
Cats are generally known to dislike water, so a well aimed bucketful or a squirt with the hose will certainly make an intruder run. After one or two dousings it may learn the lesson and stay away.
To protect plants and borders, both mothballs and citrus are said to be effective deterrents. Place the mothballs, orange peel or lemon rind in the borders. Alternatively spray cloths with orange scented air freshener and place the cloths around the plants you wish to protect. Other known cat repellents are cayenne pepper, coffee grounds, pipe tobacco, lavender oil, lemon grass oil, citronella oil, eucalyptus oil and mustard oil.
Certain herbs are said to deter cats. In particular rue but not catmint which has the opposite effect. Coleus canina is another plant which is marketed by one merchant as a cat repellent.
If you visit your local garden center or hardware store you will find several cat repellent products on sale. These range from electric water sprinklers and ultrasonic devices to sprays and granules.
Motion activated sprinklers act in the same way as a burglar alarm using an infra red detector. When the cat enters the area covered by the detector the sprinkler shoots out a jet of water to scare the animal away. It is claimed that, after one or two encounters with the jet, the cat will learn to avoid the area.
Ultrasonic devices emit a high frequency sound which is annoying to cats (and dogs) but is not audible to humans. There are various different models some of which operate continuously and others which have an infra red detector and only emit a pulse of sound when the cat triggers the device. To be successful you need to ensure that the model is powerful enough to cover the area you wish to protect. In addition make sure that the sound frequency is designed for larger animals since some models are intended to deter insects and so would be no use for cats.
There are also commercial scent cat repellents. Those that use chemicals should be kept away from any food crops but the essential oil based granule varieties act in the same way as orange and lemon peel mentioned above. Another way to keep a cat out if the garden is a repellent evaporator which consists of a container holding puffed rice which has been impregnated with essential oils. These are effective for three to four weeks and can then be refilled for a further period. Another natural product which many people claim really keeps a cat out of the garden is lion's dung. You may need to visit your local zoo to obtain this although some stores do stock zoo poo.
In Ontario, Canada the local township provides a cat trap service. Once the animal enters the cage it cannot escape but is completely unharmed. The owner has to pay to recover his pet and so should be encouraged not to let the cat stray in future. Apparently few owners bother to reclaim their cats but just obtain another kitten. However this sounds like a good way of dealing with a cat that cannot be deterred by any other method. If there is no such scheme in your area, just buy your own trap.
So, to recap, the first priority is to secure your boundary fences. Then you have the whole selection of suggested cat repellents ranging from homemade recipes to expensive commercial gadgets. I would suggest that you try the orange peel and prickly twigs for a start. If you are around when the intruder appears, try the bucket of water or hose. Even if you miss, the shock may be a sufficient deterrent. If these do not do the trick, then you may have to consider the commercial alternatives.
With thanks for this Article by Hugh Harris-Evans at http://members.ezinearticles.com/index.php
The first line of defence should be to ensure that your garden boundaries are secure. Any gaps in your fence should be blocked to deny low level access. Cats however can jump rather well and rather high, so fix a taut wire or string some six inches above the top of your fence to deter this approach.
Once inside your garden many people say that the best cat repellent is a dog who will soon see off any feline invader. That pre-supposes that you are a dog lover. If not, then you will have to resort to more passive methods. For example, cats like to lie on freshly dug soil, so you should lay mulch on your borders so that no bare soil is left exposed. Seed beds should be covered with wire netting or twigs arranged as a barrier.
Young trees should have plastic guards fitted around their trunks to protect them against use as a scratching pole. Your garden pond should be covered with netting to keep your fish safe.
Cats are generally known to dislike water, so a well aimed bucketful or a squirt with the hose will certainly make an intruder run. After one or two dousings it may learn the lesson and stay away.
To protect plants and borders, both mothballs and citrus are said to be effective deterrents. Place the mothballs, orange peel or lemon rind in the borders. Alternatively spray cloths with orange scented air freshener and place the cloths around the plants you wish to protect. Other known cat repellents are cayenne pepper, coffee grounds, pipe tobacco, lavender oil, lemon grass oil, citronella oil, eucalyptus oil and mustard oil.
Certain herbs are said to deter cats. In particular rue but not catmint which has the opposite effect. Coleus canina is another plant which is marketed by one merchant as a cat repellent.
If you visit your local garden center or hardware store you will find several cat repellent products on sale. These range from electric water sprinklers and ultrasonic devices to sprays and granules.
Motion activated sprinklers act in the same way as a burglar alarm using an infra red detector. When the cat enters the area covered by the detector the sprinkler shoots out a jet of water to scare the animal away. It is claimed that, after one or two encounters with the jet, the cat will learn to avoid the area.
Ultrasonic devices emit a high frequency sound which is annoying to cats (and dogs) but is not audible to humans. There are various different models some of which operate continuously and others which have an infra red detector and only emit a pulse of sound when the cat triggers the device. To be successful you need to ensure that the model is powerful enough to cover the area you wish to protect. In addition make sure that the sound frequency is designed for larger animals since some models are intended to deter insects and so would be no use for cats.
There are also commercial scent cat repellents. Those that use chemicals should be kept away from any food crops but the essential oil based granule varieties act in the same way as orange and lemon peel mentioned above. Another way to keep a cat out if the garden is a repellent evaporator which consists of a container holding puffed rice which has been impregnated with essential oils. These are effective for three to four weeks and can then be refilled for a further period. Another natural product which many people claim really keeps a cat out of the garden is lion's dung. You may need to visit your local zoo to obtain this although some stores do stock zoo poo.
In Ontario, Canada the local township provides a cat trap service. Once the animal enters the cage it cannot escape but is completely unharmed. The owner has to pay to recover his pet and so should be encouraged not to let the cat stray in future. Apparently few owners bother to reclaim their cats but just obtain another kitten. However this sounds like a good way of dealing with a cat that cannot be deterred by any other method. If there is no such scheme in your area, just buy your own trap.
So, to recap, the first priority is to secure your boundary fences. Then you have the whole selection of suggested cat repellents ranging from homemade recipes to expensive commercial gadgets. I would suggest that you try the orange peel and prickly twigs for a start. If you are around when the intruder appears, try the bucket of water or hose. Even if you miss, the shock may be a sufficient deterrent. If these do not do the trick, then you may have to consider the commercial alternatives.
With thanks for this Article by Hugh Harris-Evans at http://members.ezinearticles.com/index.php
Monday, September 03, 2007
Bald Patches On Your Lawn!
I am indebted to Helen Stephens for the following wonderful Article on dealing with bald patches on your Lawn which was published at http://www.doityourself.com
We all have seen them glaring out at us from amongst the tender new grass, and unfortunately for most home owners, we have at some point personally experienced them - the dreaded bald patch in the yard. They are hideous with their sickly yellow color and mostly dead appearance. No matter how beautiful the rest of our lawn is, those bald spots always stick out, waving their proverbial fingers in our face.
Sometimes it feels like they will never go away, and sometimes it feels like they move from location to location, like a living amoeba of death, consuming spot after spot. Their appearance always begs the question, how can they be destroyed? Before attacking these ugly spots with an arsenal of lawn care products, it is important to determine the origin of the problem, because each source may require a slightly different approach to care.
Patches in the grass have many causes that must be dealt with in order to find the right cure. There are many reasons for those ugly spots, such as bug infestations, seasonal dryness, mowing damage, pet waste, grass diseases, and killer weeds. We will examine each one and determine the best way to battle their attacks.
Bug Infestations
There are many munching culprits that attack either the fresh green growth on the surface of the grass or the tender roots below ground. The worst offenders are caterpillars (like cutworms, army worms, and sod webworms), billbugs, white grubs, fiery skippers, and ataenius. These pests have voracious appetites, so it is important to identify them as soon as the damage is detected. Look for small, irregular spots that grow in size each day, as well as visible evidence of munching within the affected area and surrounding blades of healthy grass.
If no pests are immediately detected, mix 1-2 ounces of dish detergent with a gallon of water and apply it evenly to the damaged area. Surface eaters like caterpillars and fiery skippers will surface to avoid contact with the solution. Since grubs live below the surface, it may be necessary to remove the top layer of damaged sod to look for their little white forms. Once the pests have been detected, you are ready to attack them.
If caterpillars are the problem, begin by thinning or removing the thatch (dead grass). Next, irrigate and fertilize the area, making sure to avoid creating soggy patches. Aerate the damaged section and surrounding lawn. Finally, overseed the damaged spot and surrounding area to encourage dense, new growth.
If billbugs are the issue, irrigate and fertilize the affected spot and increase the mowing level. For white grubs, overseed the lawn to allow for dense growth. Make sure to irrigate and fertilize well. If fiery skippers are found, reduce the thatch and look for a variety of grass that is less appetizing to them. They are more specialized in their eating preferences and can easily be foiled by changing their available menu.
For ataenius, aerate the ground to increase the root growth and raise the level of your mower for a higher cut. Finally, keep in mind that with any biological pest, there are always beneficial predators that can be introduced to help reduce the use of chemicals. Attracting birds to the area is always a plus for controlling and eliminating caterpillars and grubs, as well as the introduction of beneficial nematodes, which feed on all soft bodied insects. Avoid using broad-spectrum pesticides, because they kill the good bugs along with the bad, typically offering a greater advantage to the bad bugs in the end.
Seasonal Dryness
There are two main types of dryness that can affect your turf - Winter dryness, which is caused by an overly dry winter with little rain or snow and Summer dryness, which occurs when temperatures are high and rain levels are low in an area for an extended period of time. Either case of dryness can seriously stress your lawn, causing 'hot spots' of burned, yellow turf.
The best resolution is a two-fold approach. Begin with an application of fertilizer during the spring and summer months. This will ensure healthy, thick growth from the beginning of the growing seasons. Raise the deck of your mower. The higher cut will allow the lawn to better retain the moisture levels in the soil. Supplemental watering during dry periods may be necessary to help ensure consistent moisture.
Mowing Damage
Sometimes in our exuberant efforts to control the level of growth in our yards, we inadvertently damage the grass and create brown patches and bald spots. Infrequent mowing, dull blades, and mowing decks set too low can all produce damage in a lawn.
Make sure at the beginning of the mowing season that mower blades are thoroughly sharpened and kept that way throughout the summer. Inspect blades each time you mow to ensure that they are sharp enough to use. Dull blades rip the grass, forcing the grass to expend extra energy and nutrients to fix the torn sections, ultimately weakening the grass. Mow more frequently. This prevents the chlorophyll producing parts of the grass from being completely removed. Also, raise the level of the deck so that only the top third of the grass is being cut. Combining this last step with more frequent mowing will ensure thicker, more lush green growth overall.
Pet Waste
Regardless of whether the "presents" are left by your neighbor's pet or your own, pet urine and faeces can create unsightly spots in an otherwise healthy, green lawn. According to several studies on pet waste, the problem occurs because of the level of nitrogen in the waste itself. Pet waste has a high level of concentrated nitrogen, and when it is applied to the lawn, it creates the same effect that over-fertilization does - it burns the grass.
Urine is more potent because it is in liquid form. It takes time for faeces to break down so its effects are not as dramatic. All in all, however, pet waste can be a problem.
Unless you want to walk through life pet-less, a varied approach to pet waste should be taken. The first step is to eliminate the issue of other people’s pets using your yard as their public restroom. Begin by putting up a structural or living fence to prevent marauding animals from "going" on your lawn.
With community pets out of the way, you can now address the damage created by your own precious pet. Begin by daily picking up the solid waste in your yard and composting it. For communities that do not have public pet waste composting facilities, there are personal pet composters now on the market. The resulting compost can safely be used anywhere in the garden.
For urine spots, begin by flushing the area with water. Damage is reduced considerably if the area is flushed within 8 hours of urination. Flushing dilutes the nitrogen levels and reduces the damage caused by the urine. Try rotating the acceptable pee locations, allowing the prior pee spot to recover from the previous day's use. If your yard is small, consider creating a "potty zone" by removing the sod entirely and laying down pea gravel.
Make sure to rinse the gravel daily to reduce both smell and urine buildup. When damage does occur, remove the damaged thatch and heavily reseed the area, making sure to water daily to maximize seed germination and growth. Spots often recover quickly if given the chance.
Grass Diseases
There are many diseases that can attack a lawn, causing symptoms like leaf spots, powdery white residue, thin grass growth, dead spots, and severe discoloration. Such symptoms can be caused by powdery mildew, fungal infections, rust and leaf blight, just to name a few.
If a grass disease is indeed the source of your problem, it is important to act quickly to contain and treat the offending disease. There are many fungicides on the market both for specialized and generalized treatment, but before spending money on products that promise the world, seek the help of a professional. Most local farmers’ and gardeners’ co-ops can help not only in the identification of your disease but also in recommending an effective treatment. It is their business to know these things, and seeking their advise early in the season can be a real lawn saver.
Killer Weeds
There are many types of weeds that can encroach on a yard and steal much needed nutrients from your lawn. Their goal is to choke out the grass by killing it at the roots. Crabgrass, clover, dandelions and ryegrass are just a few of the many types of weeds that will attempt to take over your lawn and garden.
Weeds are relentless, so a combined approach of prevention and maintenance will help remove weeds from your lawn. Although no product will ever completely eliminate every weed from your yard, an application of weed preventative in the spring can greatly reduce the appearance of weeds by reducing the germination rate of the previous year’s weed seed.
Frequent mowing will prevent the formation of new flowers and seed heads, cutting down on the spread of existing plants. Weekly fertilization of your lawn will be the final death blow to any weed invasion. First of all, dense, vigorous grass growth will not only resist the spread of encroaching weeds, it will help choke out existing weeds where they are already established. Finally, fertilizing your lawn will cause the existing weed foliage to explode with growth. This vigorous green weed growth will quickly outgrow the roots of the weed, eventually weakening the plant, until it dies.
For many of us, our lawn is our life. We play on it, we entertain our friends on it, and we enjoy the company of our family on it. With a little effort and a lot of love, we can ensure that the grass is always greener on our side of the fence.
We all have seen them glaring out at us from amongst the tender new grass, and unfortunately for most home owners, we have at some point personally experienced them - the dreaded bald patch in the yard. They are hideous with their sickly yellow color and mostly dead appearance. No matter how beautiful the rest of our lawn is, those bald spots always stick out, waving their proverbial fingers in our face.
Sometimes it feels like they will never go away, and sometimes it feels like they move from location to location, like a living amoeba of death, consuming spot after spot. Their appearance always begs the question, how can they be destroyed? Before attacking these ugly spots with an arsenal of lawn care products, it is important to determine the origin of the problem, because each source may require a slightly different approach to care.
Patches in the grass have many causes that must be dealt with in order to find the right cure. There are many reasons for those ugly spots, such as bug infestations, seasonal dryness, mowing damage, pet waste, grass diseases, and killer weeds. We will examine each one and determine the best way to battle their attacks.
Bug Infestations
There are many munching culprits that attack either the fresh green growth on the surface of the grass or the tender roots below ground. The worst offenders are caterpillars (like cutworms, army worms, and sod webworms), billbugs, white grubs, fiery skippers, and ataenius. These pests have voracious appetites, so it is important to identify them as soon as the damage is detected. Look for small, irregular spots that grow in size each day, as well as visible evidence of munching within the affected area and surrounding blades of healthy grass.
If no pests are immediately detected, mix 1-2 ounces of dish detergent with a gallon of water and apply it evenly to the damaged area. Surface eaters like caterpillars and fiery skippers will surface to avoid contact with the solution. Since grubs live below the surface, it may be necessary to remove the top layer of damaged sod to look for their little white forms. Once the pests have been detected, you are ready to attack them.
If caterpillars are the problem, begin by thinning or removing the thatch (dead grass). Next, irrigate and fertilize the area, making sure to avoid creating soggy patches. Aerate the damaged section and surrounding lawn. Finally, overseed the damaged spot and surrounding area to encourage dense, new growth.
If billbugs are the issue, irrigate and fertilize the affected spot and increase the mowing level. For white grubs, overseed the lawn to allow for dense growth. Make sure to irrigate and fertilize well. If fiery skippers are found, reduce the thatch and look for a variety of grass that is less appetizing to them. They are more specialized in their eating preferences and can easily be foiled by changing their available menu.
For ataenius, aerate the ground to increase the root growth and raise the level of your mower for a higher cut. Finally, keep in mind that with any biological pest, there are always beneficial predators that can be introduced to help reduce the use of chemicals. Attracting birds to the area is always a plus for controlling and eliminating caterpillars and grubs, as well as the introduction of beneficial nematodes, which feed on all soft bodied insects. Avoid using broad-spectrum pesticides, because they kill the good bugs along with the bad, typically offering a greater advantage to the bad bugs in the end.
Seasonal Dryness
There are two main types of dryness that can affect your turf - Winter dryness, which is caused by an overly dry winter with little rain or snow and Summer dryness, which occurs when temperatures are high and rain levels are low in an area for an extended period of time. Either case of dryness can seriously stress your lawn, causing 'hot spots' of burned, yellow turf.
The best resolution is a two-fold approach. Begin with an application of fertilizer during the spring and summer months. This will ensure healthy, thick growth from the beginning of the growing seasons. Raise the deck of your mower. The higher cut will allow the lawn to better retain the moisture levels in the soil. Supplemental watering during dry periods may be necessary to help ensure consistent moisture.
Mowing Damage
Sometimes in our exuberant efforts to control the level of growth in our yards, we inadvertently damage the grass and create brown patches and bald spots. Infrequent mowing, dull blades, and mowing decks set too low can all produce damage in a lawn.
Make sure at the beginning of the mowing season that mower blades are thoroughly sharpened and kept that way throughout the summer. Inspect blades each time you mow to ensure that they are sharp enough to use. Dull blades rip the grass, forcing the grass to expend extra energy and nutrients to fix the torn sections, ultimately weakening the grass. Mow more frequently. This prevents the chlorophyll producing parts of the grass from being completely removed. Also, raise the level of the deck so that only the top third of the grass is being cut. Combining this last step with more frequent mowing will ensure thicker, more lush green growth overall.
Pet Waste
Regardless of whether the "presents" are left by your neighbor's pet or your own, pet urine and faeces can create unsightly spots in an otherwise healthy, green lawn. According to several studies on pet waste, the problem occurs because of the level of nitrogen in the waste itself. Pet waste has a high level of concentrated nitrogen, and when it is applied to the lawn, it creates the same effect that over-fertilization does - it burns the grass.
Urine is more potent because it is in liquid form. It takes time for faeces to break down so its effects are not as dramatic. All in all, however, pet waste can be a problem.
Unless you want to walk through life pet-less, a varied approach to pet waste should be taken. The first step is to eliminate the issue of other people’s pets using your yard as their public restroom. Begin by putting up a structural or living fence to prevent marauding animals from "going" on your lawn.
With community pets out of the way, you can now address the damage created by your own precious pet. Begin by daily picking up the solid waste in your yard and composting it. For communities that do not have public pet waste composting facilities, there are personal pet composters now on the market. The resulting compost can safely be used anywhere in the garden.
For urine spots, begin by flushing the area with water. Damage is reduced considerably if the area is flushed within 8 hours of urination. Flushing dilutes the nitrogen levels and reduces the damage caused by the urine. Try rotating the acceptable pee locations, allowing the prior pee spot to recover from the previous day's use. If your yard is small, consider creating a "potty zone" by removing the sod entirely and laying down pea gravel.
Make sure to rinse the gravel daily to reduce both smell and urine buildup. When damage does occur, remove the damaged thatch and heavily reseed the area, making sure to water daily to maximize seed germination and growth. Spots often recover quickly if given the chance.
Grass Diseases
There are many diseases that can attack a lawn, causing symptoms like leaf spots, powdery white residue, thin grass growth, dead spots, and severe discoloration. Such symptoms can be caused by powdery mildew, fungal infections, rust and leaf blight, just to name a few.
If a grass disease is indeed the source of your problem, it is important to act quickly to contain and treat the offending disease. There are many fungicides on the market both for specialized and generalized treatment, but before spending money on products that promise the world, seek the help of a professional. Most local farmers’ and gardeners’ co-ops can help not only in the identification of your disease but also in recommending an effective treatment. It is their business to know these things, and seeking their advise early in the season can be a real lawn saver.
Killer Weeds
There are many types of weeds that can encroach on a yard and steal much needed nutrients from your lawn. Their goal is to choke out the grass by killing it at the roots. Crabgrass, clover, dandelions and ryegrass are just a few of the many types of weeds that will attempt to take over your lawn and garden.
Weeds are relentless, so a combined approach of prevention and maintenance will help remove weeds from your lawn. Although no product will ever completely eliminate every weed from your yard, an application of weed preventative in the spring can greatly reduce the appearance of weeds by reducing the germination rate of the previous year’s weed seed.
Frequent mowing will prevent the formation of new flowers and seed heads, cutting down on the spread of existing plants. Weekly fertilization of your lawn will be the final death blow to any weed invasion. First of all, dense, vigorous grass growth will not only resist the spread of encroaching weeds, it will help choke out existing weeds where they are already established. Finally, fertilizing your lawn will cause the existing weed foliage to explode with growth. This vigorous green weed growth will quickly outgrow the roots of the weed, eventually weakening the plant, until it dies.
For many of us, our lawn is our life. We play on it, we entertain our friends on it, and we enjoy the company of our family on it. With a little effort and a lot of love, we can ensure that the grass is always greener on our side of the fence.
Saturday, September 01, 2007
Ants! How to Deal with them in Your Garden.
Thanks to Wikipedia for the following information on Ants.
"Modern society considers the ant a pest and due to the adaptive nature of ant colonies, eliminating them is nearly impossible. Pest control with regard to ants is more a matter of controlling local populations than eliminating an entire colony. Attempts to control ant populations of any kind are temporary solutions.
Typical ants that are classified as pests include pavement ants (otherwise known as the sugar ant), Pharaoh ants, carpenter ants, Argentine ants, and the red imported fire ant. Control of species populations are usually done with bait insecticides, which are either in the form of small granules, or as a sticky liquid that is gathered by the ants as food and then brought back to the nest where the poison is inadvertently spread to other members of the brood — a system that can severely reduce the numbers in a colony if used properly.
Boric acid and borax are often used as insecticides that are relatively safe for humans. With the recent insurgence of the red imported fire ant, a tactic called broadcast baiting has been employed, by which the substance (usually a granule bait designed specifically for fire ants) is spread across a large area, such as a lawn, in order to control populations. Nests may be destroyed by tracing the ants' trails back to the nest, then pouring boiling water into it to kill the queen. This works in about 60% of the mounds and needs about 14 litres (3 gallons) per mound.
Ants that tend other insects can indirectly cause pest infestations. Many homopteran insects that are considered as horticultural pests are controlled by the use of grease rings on the trunks of the trees. These rings cut off the routes for ants and make the pest species vulnerable to parasites and predators."
"Modern society considers the ant a pest and due to the adaptive nature of ant colonies, eliminating them is nearly impossible. Pest control with regard to ants is more a matter of controlling local populations than eliminating an entire colony. Attempts to control ant populations of any kind are temporary solutions.
Typical ants that are classified as pests include pavement ants (otherwise known as the sugar ant), Pharaoh ants, carpenter ants, Argentine ants, and the red imported fire ant. Control of species populations are usually done with bait insecticides, which are either in the form of small granules, or as a sticky liquid that is gathered by the ants as food and then brought back to the nest where the poison is inadvertently spread to other members of the brood — a system that can severely reduce the numbers in a colony if used properly.
Boric acid and borax are often used as insecticides that are relatively safe for humans. With the recent insurgence of the red imported fire ant, a tactic called broadcast baiting has been employed, by which the substance (usually a granule bait designed specifically for fire ants) is spread across a large area, such as a lawn, in order to control populations. Nests may be destroyed by tracing the ants' trails back to the nest, then pouring boiling water into it to kill the queen. This works in about 60% of the mounds and needs about 14 litres (3 gallons) per mound.
Ants that tend other insects can indirectly cause pest infestations. Many homopteran insects that are considered as horticultural pests are controlled by the use of grease rings on the trunks of the trees. These rings cut off the routes for ants and make the pest species vulnerable to parasites and predators."
Thursday, August 30, 2007
Dandelion!
Dandelion! The Ultimate Weed!
Some people like the sight of yellow dandelion flowers in their lawn. Others may even appreciate their skyward-stretching puffballs. But if you're not one of those people, we can suggest some natural and organic methods for controlling dandelions.
Pulling dandelions by hand is not that easy, but it can be done. You need to get the whole tap root out—if you don't, the piece you've left in the ground will sprout new foliage and, eventually, yellow flowers and white puffballs.
For little weeds, pulling the tap root out is not too hard if you're careful. For larger specimens, it can be nearly impossible. A special "dandelion digger" tool can help, as can attempting your weed-pulling operation after it's rained, when the ground it still a little loose.
Dandelions grow in one of two ways; from a dandelion seed that germinates, or from a still-viable piece of tap root that's under the surface. If you can interrupt the seed production cycle AND starve the tap roots of nutrients, you can defeat your lawn's dandelions without having to buy any chemicals or other products. Here's how to approach this:
1. Pick off the Heads — As soon as you see a dandelion plant's yellow flowers, pick the heads off. That will prevent them from getting to the puffball stage, when they release the seeds for the next generation of your lawn's worst nightmare.
2. Pick off the Leaves — Picking the leaves off a dandelion will not kill it because the tap root remains below the surface and will quickly send up new leaves. But repeatedly picking off the leaves will eventually starve the tap root of nutrients and kill the weed.
3. Corn gluten meal—which, just like it sounds, is naturally derived from corn. It acts by suppressing the germination process of a variety of weed seeds, including crabgrass and dandelion.
A multi-year program of applying corn gluten meal every spring will eventually give you a weed-free lawn. Remember that corn gluten meal will suppress germination of grass seeds as well, so time your applications away from reseedings.
The only other downside of corn gluten meal is that it will also kill the beneficial, nitrogen-fixing clover in your lawn, but we recognize that from some people's perspectives, that's a good thing.
Corn gluten meal also benefits your grass by adding nitrogen to the soil.
If you like spending money on mechanical gadgets to help you with your gardening, you'll find a variety of appliances such as flame weeders, mechanical pullers, water-powered weeders, and heat zappers, all designed to kill your dandelions off. These do work but are expensive.
Wednesday, August 29, 2007
Bumps and Hollows in Your Lawn!
O.K. so you wake up one fine morning and discover - horror of horrors - that there are large bumps and hollows in your lawn. Or, perhaps you have just moved house and need to deal with a new garden.
Well first off, don't panic! Second off, forget your garden roller as a remedy! Using a garden roller simply enhances the bumps and hollows and compacts everything into a hard mass.
If you have "large hollows" in your Lawn, the only way to get rid of them is to strip off the turf and take out some soil before replacing the turf in its original position.
However, often times, it is simply an uneven lawn that is the problem. If this is the case then the easy answer is to bring the hollows up to the level of the bumps, thus creating a flat surface.
To define this in a more clear manner, if the hollows are about 2" deep then the lawn can be treated easily by filling the hollows up.
First thing to do is find a straight edge, perhaps a plank will do. Place the plank over the hollow to be treated and use it to spread a top dressing mix into the lawn to a rough level by "screeding" the edge back and forward.
Once the surface is level, then compact the soil by treading in with your heels. The final result should be only sufficiently firm as to not leave any fooprint.
Then rake the soil to its final level with as wide a rake as you can find.
Finally, spread a mix of grass seed over the treated area at about 1 good handful for each square yard, making sure of a wide, even spread across the area.
Rake this in lightly.
I suggest you protect your lawn against the ravages of birds, possibly with some form of net protection. Water the area and await results for about 2 weeks. By then the grass should have started to grow and you will have a lawn that is level and flat.
Well first off, don't panic! Second off, forget your garden roller as a remedy! Using a garden roller simply enhances the bumps and hollows and compacts everything into a hard mass.
If you have "large hollows" in your Lawn, the only way to get rid of them is to strip off the turf and take out some soil before replacing the turf in its original position.
However, often times, it is simply an uneven lawn that is the problem. If this is the case then the easy answer is to bring the hollows up to the level of the bumps, thus creating a flat surface.
To define this in a more clear manner, if the hollows are about 2" deep then the lawn can be treated easily by filling the hollows up.
First thing to do is find a straight edge, perhaps a plank will do. Place the plank over the hollow to be treated and use it to spread a top dressing mix into the lawn to a rough level by "screeding" the edge back and forward.
Once the surface is level, then compact the soil by treading in with your heels. The final result should be only sufficiently firm as to not leave any fooprint.
Then rake the soil to its final level with as wide a rake as you can find.
Finally, spread a mix of grass seed over the treated area at about 1 good handful for each square yard, making sure of a wide, even spread across the area.
Rake this in lightly.
I suggest you protect your lawn against the ravages of birds, possibly with some form of net protection. Water the area and await results for about 2 weeks. By then the grass should have started to grow and you will have a lawn that is level and flat.
Monday, August 27, 2007
Lawn Mowers - The right way to mow your lawn!
lawn care
Lawn Mowers
The way you mow your lawn could mean the difference between a healthy lawn and a very healthy lawn. Most people are not thrilled when they have to mow the lawn or weed it. But these are important lawn maintenance tasks that have to be done.
The first step to mowing the lawn is to buy the right lawn mower. There are many different kinds of Lawn Mowers on the market today.
Push mower -These are probably the oldest lawn mowers in existence, but they are very effective for smaller lawns. You will get no special perks from this mower. With some updated mower, you may be able to change the blade height, but that’s about it.
All you have to do is manually push the mower over the lawn and it will cut the grass. It is important to make sure the grass is dry or it will get caught in the blade and you will have to remove it.
The clippings will fall on the lawn.
You can grab a bag and rake them up, or you can let them decompose and feed your lawn. It’s your choice.
Electric mower - An electric mower is a little easier to use because it is powers by electricity. This means that you will be able to cut your lawn faster than with a push mower. Older electric mowers have a power cord that you will have to plug in order to use. These mowers can be dangerous if you do not remember to look after the cord.
As with the push mower, you will have to clean up the clippings or leave them on your lawn.
Electric cordless mower - These mowers do not have cords which make them much easier to use and do not require you to find an outlet on both sides of the house. Electric cordless mowers also come with a bag that will store lawn clippings. When the bag is full, you will have to empty it. These mowers run on a battery that can be charged easily when not in use.
These mowers can also be used without the bag if you would rather let the lawn clippings fertilize your lawn.
Ride-on mower - For larger lawns, a ride-on mower will help you not run out of energy to complete other tasks around the yard once the mowing is complete.
These mowers have bags that will catch lawn clippings.
Mulching mower - If you want to use your lawn clippings, but do not like the site of them, you should look into investing in a mulching mower. These mowers will ground up lawn clippings so they are not as visible as regular clippings.
How to Mow
Regardless of which lawn mower you purchase, you should learn how to mow the lawn correctly so that you do not do unnecessary damage. You should consider following these tips:
You should mow your lawn when the grass is dry and is about three inches in length. If you mow any sooner, you may end up killing the grass. You will then have to reseed and start all over again. If you don’t want to walk outside each weekend and measure your lawn, you should mow about twice a month or every other weekend during the summertime.
Each time you mow your lawn, you should begin in a different direction. If you mow in the same direction each time, you will end up creating ruts in your lawn. These ruts could destroy your lawn and also make it look run down and unkempt.
Even if you do not want lawn clippings, and have not purchased a mulching mower, maybe you could compromise and only pick up lawn clippings once a month instead of twice. Full of nutrients, lawn clippings will make your lawn healthier.
Mowing the lawn is not difficult, but it should be done correctly so that you can get the most from your lawn during the spring and summer months. The nutrients you feed your lawn during this time will keep your lawn healthy for the entire year. While mowing too much can be a problem, so can not mowing enough. Long grass can cause shorter pieces to not get enough sunlight.
Mow your lawn consistently and you will enjoy a lush lawn all season long. Fertilize it with fertilizers, mulch, compost, and lawn clippings to keep that green alive all year long.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
Lawn Mowers
The way you mow your lawn could mean the difference between a healthy lawn and a very healthy lawn. Most people are not thrilled when they have to mow the lawn or weed it. But these are important lawn maintenance tasks that have to be done.
The first step to mowing the lawn is to buy the right lawn mower. There are many different kinds of Lawn Mowers on the market today.
Push mower -These are probably the oldest lawn mowers in existence, but they are very effective for smaller lawns. You will get no special perks from this mower. With some updated mower, you may be able to change the blade height, but that’s about it.
All you have to do is manually push the mower over the lawn and it will cut the grass. It is important to make sure the grass is dry or it will get caught in the blade and you will have to remove it.
The clippings will fall on the lawn.
You can grab a bag and rake them up, or you can let them decompose and feed your lawn. It’s your choice.
Electric mower - An electric mower is a little easier to use because it is powers by electricity. This means that you will be able to cut your lawn faster than with a push mower. Older electric mowers have a power cord that you will have to plug in order to use. These mowers can be dangerous if you do not remember to look after the cord.
As with the push mower, you will have to clean up the clippings or leave them on your lawn.
Electric cordless mower - These mowers do not have cords which make them much easier to use and do not require you to find an outlet on both sides of the house. Electric cordless mowers also come with a bag that will store lawn clippings. When the bag is full, you will have to empty it. These mowers run on a battery that can be charged easily when not in use.
These mowers can also be used without the bag if you would rather let the lawn clippings fertilize your lawn.
Ride-on mower - For larger lawns, a ride-on mower will help you not run out of energy to complete other tasks around the yard once the mowing is complete.
These mowers have bags that will catch lawn clippings.
Mulching mower - If you want to use your lawn clippings, but do not like the site of them, you should look into investing in a mulching mower. These mowers will ground up lawn clippings so they are not as visible as regular clippings.
How to Mow
Regardless of which lawn mower you purchase, you should learn how to mow the lawn correctly so that you do not do unnecessary damage. You should consider following these tips:
You should mow your lawn when the grass is dry and is about three inches in length. If you mow any sooner, you may end up killing the grass. You will then have to reseed and start all over again. If you don’t want to walk outside each weekend and measure your lawn, you should mow about twice a month or every other weekend during the summertime.
Each time you mow your lawn, you should begin in a different direction. If you mow in the same direction each time, you will end up creating ruts in your lawn. These ruts could destroy your lawn and also make it look run down and unkempt.
Even if you do not want lawn clippings, and have not purchased a mulching mower, maybe you could compromise and only pick up lawn clippings once a month instead of twice. Full of nutrients, lawn clippings will make your lawn healthier.
Mowing the lawn is not difficult, but it should be done correctly so that you can get the most from your lawn during the spring and summer months. The nutrients you feed your lawn during this time will keep your lawn healthy for the entire year. While mowing too much can be a problem, so can not mowing enough. Long grass can cause shorter pieces to not get enough sunlight.
Mow your lawn consistently and you will enjoy a lush lawn all season long. Fertilize it with fertilizers, mulch, compost, and lawn clippings to keep that green alive all year long.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
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