How to use Vinegar in your Garden - Keep those Cats Away!

Gardening with vinegar has many uses and benefits and best of all, it is safe to use, doesn't harm the environment, is freely available and it is cheap! It really is, therefore your organic and eco-friendly pesticide, insecticide, and herbicide.

Here you will learn about these benefits and pick up a few tips along the way. It can also be used full-strength or diluted depending on the job at hand. It can also be used quite readily in the kitchen, bathroom and other areas of the house, but today, we are going to just concentrate on the outside areas. One word of warning, however, remember that when it is all said and done, you are working with acid, so make sure you protect your eyes. So what exactly can vinegar do for you?

First of all, for those of you who are plagued by pests and little critters in the garden, fret no more. It will keep cats at bay if you spray in areas you want to deter them, particularly that sand-pit you may have in the garden for the children but those cats will insist on using as their own private toilet! Heavily spray full-strength vinegar around the edges of the sandpit and remember to re-apply after it rains.

Are those rabbits eating your vegetables, particularly your beans and peas? Soak corncobs in full strength vinegar for a couple of hours until they are thoroughly soaked. You may even soak them over-night if you wish. Then place the cobs strategically around your veggie patch. They will keep rabbits away for as long as you re-soak your corncobs every two weeks.

Do you have an ant problem? Again you can apply this full-strength to the ants and they will not come anywhere near the stuff. This is very useful if you find a trail of them making a way into your house. Just spray the thresholds and reapply every couple of days to ensure that they stay away.

Slugs are real pests, because they eat both vegetables, especially lettuces and plants, especially hostas. In this case, vinegar acts as a poison to the slugs because, if you spray slugs with it directly, they will die. You can treat snails in exactly the same way. However, because vinegar is also a herbicide, be careful where you spray your vinegar. Salvias for example will die, if they are sprayed as a casualty.

Are your fruit trees being invaded by fruit flies? Try this fruit fly bait, which is deadly and effective. Take 1 cup of water, a half a cup of cider vinegar, a quarter of a cup of sugar and 1 tablespoon of molasses. Mix it all together. Take old tin cans without their lids and make two holes in opposite ends for wire handles. Attach the handles and add an inch of the mixture to each can. Hang 2 - 3 tins in each tree. Check on the traps on a regular basis to refill and clean when necessary.

After you have been digging in the garden with your gardening tools, soak them in a bucket of half-strength vinegar. This will act as a fungicide and kill off anything that may be lurking unsuspectingly so that there is no possibility of cross-contamination when you use them next.

Are your garden plants struggling and your roses suffering from black spot or other fungal diseases? Take 2 tablespoons of white vinegar and mix it with 4 litres of compost tea. Now spray your garden plants with this mixture and see the difference. For roses, the method is slightly different. Take 3 tablespoons of cider vinegar, and mix it with 4 litres of water to control those fungal diseases. Of course, don't forget the compost tea either on your roses to get the best results. For powdery mildew take 2-3 tablespoons of cider vinegar and mix with 4 litres of water and spray your plants. This will help control the problem.

What about your acid-living plants like azaleas, gardenias and rhododendrons? Are they flowering as well as they could be? If not, increase the soil's acidity. In hard water areas, add 1 cup of vinegar to 4 litres of tap water. It will also release iron into the soil for the plants to use. And if you have too much lime in your garden, add vinegar to neutralize it.

Do you have weeds coming up in between your paving slabs on our driveway or pathway that you cannot remove by hand? Don't use a herbicide that is know to damage the environment. Use an eco-friendly alternative instead. Take 1 litre of boiled water, 2 tablespoons of salt and 5 tablespoons of vinegar. Mix altogether, and whilst still hot, pour onto the offending plants.

Did you know that you can improve your germination success rate of seeds by using vinegar? This is especially useful for those seeds that are more difficult to germinate such as asparagus and okra, morning glories and moonflowers. Rub the seeds gently first between two pieces of coarse sandpaper. Then soak the seeds overnight in 500 ml of warm water, 125 ml of vinegar and a squirt of washing-up liquid. Plant the next day as normal. You can use the same method, but without the sandpaper for nasturtiums, parsley, beetroot, and parsnips.

And finally, are your chickens pecking each other? Add a tablespoon of cider vinegar to their drinking water, and they will stop!

Written by Kathryn Bax, owner and web site developer of Country Living and Farm Lifestyles: A Worldwide Farmers' Market for Farm Food, Farm Accommodation, Game Farms, Wine Farms, Farming Jobs, Farm Swaps, Rural Services, Country Living and much, much more. Buy local and support your local farmers.

http://www.countryfarm-lifestyles.com/

Diary of a Silver Surfer

Hi again folks.......well did you miss me? the story is that when I set this Blog up i was officially retired.

Sadly, with the recent financial chaos, i had to go back to work to earn a crust and pay the mortgage! Result .... one 66 year old working 11 hour shifts in a Call Centre to supplement a pathetic State Pension.

Give me strength. we are over taxed, overlooked, over bureaucratised, spied on, treble taxed, and our opinions trodden underfoot.

And don't tell me this is a Democracy -- you can just vote them out. Do me a favour. Do you honestly believe things will change under a different Government?

My friend Democracy is dead in U.K. The idea that an Englishman's home is his castle has disappeared for ever. Have you any idea how many faceless people can invade your home without a warrant?

Do you know how many "refugees" are living among us sucking the life blood out of the State Benefit System I paid into for 50 years and which has singularly failed to
keep its promise to me and people of my generation.

I have thought hard about this and have decided to re-start my gardening Blog today. With a cutting edge of comment added to it.

In fact, I may even start a new Blog or Newsletter for Silver surfers like me who want to be heard by an unelected unrepresentative bunch of crooks called politicians,
whose noses are stuck so firmly in the trough that they breath through their backsides and can't see the real World at all!

And don't get me started about the EC. I'll keep that one for another day.

Meantime, if there is anyone out there reading this who feels like me and wants to vent their frustration drop a comment on this article and i will get back to you.

On gardening issues, here is an article you may be interested in provided by our friends at http://www.tipsonflowergardening.com/winter-flowers.html


"Quick. Name 10 winter flowers....!

Yes, I know, it depends where you live. For instance, if you look out your window and see snow drifts big enough to hide a dog, you will have to settle for indoor winter flowers. But if you live in a zone that allows outdoor plants to bloom year round, then here are some gorgeous winter flowers.

Witch hazel (Hamamelis spp.) is a winter-flowering shrub. These shrubs can grow to a height of 20 feet and they bloom from late fall through the winter. The Hamamelis virginiana variety is native to North America and has yellow-gold flowers and leaves. Yes, the astringent witch hazel comes from this plant but it offers great winter color.

Japanese pieris (Pieris japonica) is another shrub that blooms in winter. The blooms are strands of buds in bright red, white or pink. The leaves are bright green.

Christmas roses (or Lenton roses) (Helleborus spp.) bloom in mid to late winter. They have dark green leaves and cup-shaped blooms in maroon, pink, white or red. As the bloom get older, they fade to a creamy ivory color.

Glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa lucillae) provides star-shaped flowers. This plant grows from bulbs and there is a trick to keeping it blooming year after year. After the blooms stop, don’t mow the lawn for six week. This lets the bulbs pull the necessary energy from the lawn so that it can bloom again next winter.

Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) is a shrub with yellow jasmine blossoms that bloom from late fall and the winter. It can grow to a height of 15 feet and makes a great trellis-trained plant.

Firethorn (Pyracantha) is a good companion winter flower for the winter jasmine. It grows berries in bright red or pale yellow. Don’t prune it because this will trim off the potential berries.

There are early bulbs that qualify as winter flowers because given the right circumstances, they will blossom early enough to be in your garden when the snow is still there. Some of the favorite early blooming bulbs are crocus, amaryllis, hyacinth, tulip, and narcissus. A couple of other contenders are snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) and the reticulated iris (Iris reticulata).

What you need to remember about winter flowers is that they are not going to be great big beds of various colorful flowers. Technically most of them are shrubs. You can check to see which ones will flourish in your area and try one or two. Even bright shiny green leaves in February can be quite attractive."

Feeding Garden Birds!

Lawn, garden, birds, feeding

I keep returning to my favourite theme about "whole gardens." In other words a garden should be bigger and better than the sum total of its individual parts! We tend to concentrate in this Blog on matters dealing with Lawn Care but a lawn without flowers or birds or insects is like a 1 Course meal. There are so many facets that make up the complete picture and we forget this at our peril. So instead of Lawns, today I want to look at garden birds. I came across this practical Article on feeding birds at website
http://www.yptenc.org.uk/docs/factsheets/env_facts/feed_birds.html
which I recommend to you all!

When to Feed Birds

Birds appreciate being fed throughout the year, but winter is their most difficult time, when they find it hard to find their natural food, such as insects, worms, berries and seeds. Luckily, most birds take readily to a variety of food items that we can easily provide and this helps them to survive the cold winter months.

Seed-eaters, such as chaffinches and greenfinches enjoy being offered a supply of seeds all through the year. Birds, whether they are insect or seed eaters when adult, feed their babies on insects and other minibeasts; it is not a good idea to put out loose whole peanuts in the spring and summer - a whole peanut fed to a baby bird by a misguided parent may choke it! However, most other types of food can be quite safely offered throughout the year.

As well as helping the birds, feeding them enables us to watch them close-up, observe their behaviour and even photograph them quite easily!

Suitable Food for Garden Birds

Almost any kitchen leftovers can be used. Here are the most useful types of food:-

Bread:

Wholemeal bread is best, but any bread can be put out as long as it is crumbled up and moist. Soak very dry bread before offering it to the birds.

Cooked rice, pasta, pastry & potatoes:
these have lots of starch and are appreciated by a variety of birds.

Stale cake & biscuits:
in addition to starch, these contain fat which is an excellent source of energy.

Cheese:
wrens and robins love crumbled or grated cheese.

Fat:
bacon rind, fat trimmed from chops and suet may be cut up into small bits or it can be hung up in a lump.

Fruit:
windfalls or bruisedapples and pears are loved by blackbirds and thrushes. Winter visitors such as redwings and fieldfares, from Scandinavia, may be attracted too. Dried fruits e.g. raisins and sultanas, are appreciated too but always soak these first.

Peanuts:
these are rich in fat and attract a host of birds, including the titfamily, greenfinches, house sparrows, nuthatches, siskins and great spotted woodpeckers. Shelled peanuts may be put in wire mesh containers and hung up. Crushed or chopped nuts may be put out for robins and dunnocks (hedge sparrows). A chain of peanuts in their shells can be made by threading them onto string with a darning needle. Never use salted nuts - these cause the birds to dehydrate.

Fresh Coconut:
this is a favourite with tits. First drain off the milk from a whole coconut by drilling two holes in one end, then saw it in half and hang outside. Never give dessicated (dried) coconut to birds as this swells up inside a bird's stomach.

Bird Seed:
most pet shops and garden centres sell specially prepared seed mixes for wild birds. Greenfinches and chaffinches prefer sunflower seeds, whereas dunnocks and other finches prefer smaller seeds, such as canary seed and millet.

REMEMBER........do not feed the following to your garden birds:- salted nuts, dessicated coconut, highly-spiced food - and not too much white bread or very dry bread.

Where to put the food

Bird Table: a bird table is a convenient place to put out food. It doesn't have to be an elaborate structure - just a 40cm square of exterior grade plywood, preferably with a ridge around the edges, screwed onto a 1.7m post (sunk about 40cm into the ground) is sufficient. It is important to place the table in the right spot. You will want to watch and study the birds, so it needs to be not too far from the house, perhaps, for example, a few feet from the kitchen window.

Cats can be a real nuisance, so bushes and trees should be more than a leap away from the table - a minimum of 2 metres. An inverted metal cone or biscuit tin around the post of a birdtable will make it difficult for cats to climb up (it may also stop squirrels climbing up too!). Instead of being fixed to a post, a table could also be fixed to a wall or a window-sill.

OTHER PLACES; some garden birds are reluctant to feed several feet above the ground. Dunnocks and wrens, for example, prefer to scratch around on the ground, so scatter food for them on the open ground around the bird table. Nuts, fat and coconuts can be hung either from the table or from branches of trees.


Remember:

(i) once you begin putting out food, birds will be attracted from quite a wide area and they will come to rely on you; if you suddenly stop feeding, some of these birds may die, unable to find enough food to survive.

(ii) put food out at regular times - first thing in the morning is probably the best time so that there is a supply of food ready for the hungry birds emerging from a cold night.

(iii) don't overfeed and leave uneaten food lying around during the night. Accumalation of stale food can cause health problems for the birds and attract rats and mice.

Water

Birds need water to drink and bathe in. They must be able to keep their feathers clean in order to keep warm in severe weather. A shallow-edged pond is an ideal watering place for birds, but an upturned dustbin lid or flowerpot base will do just as well. Sink the container into the ground or raise it up on bricks to stop it wobbling about. Keep the water clean and fresh to avoid disease. In very cold weather, keep the bath clear of ice. If the bath is made of metal or stone, a night-light underneath stops ice forming. Do not put antifreeze or salt in the water!

Recipe for Bird Cake

First make a mould from something suitable. A half-coconut shell with string or wire threaded through a small hole in the base makes a good one. Alternatively, an old yoghurt pot can be used (see below).

Ingredients:

500g fat (suet is best)
500g mixed bird seed (not too many large seeds)
750g (up to this but no more) scraps e.g. cake & biscuit crumbs, grated cheese, minced peanuts, sultanas, brown bread etc.


Method:

1. Carefully melt the fat in a large saucepan - don't make it too hot.

2. Stir all the rest of the ingredients into the fat.

3. Pour the mixture into the mould and leave to cool and set. If using a yoghurt pot, push a length of wire into the mixture while it is still soft.

4. When the cake is set, hang the coconut mould upside down in the garden. Cake made in a yoghurt pot can be carefully scooped out using a knife, and hung up by the wire.

Gardening for Birds

Apart from putting out special food for birds, there are several other ways in which we can attract even more bird species to our gardens. Here are a few ideas:-

Grow shrubs which have berries and fruit e.g. elder, hawthorn, cotoneaster, pyracantha, honeysuckle, ivy and mahonia. These plants may also provide nesting sites.

Birds prefer untidy gardeners. Leave dead heads on plants so that the birds can pick out the seeds. Don't clear up all the autumn leaves - leave some leaf litter around so that birds can scratch around in it for minibeasts.

Don't use pesticides. Leave the aphids on the roses for the blue tits to enjoy - don't spray them with chemicals. Pellets used for killing slugs and snails can be dangerous to birds and other wildlife; if a thrush eats a poisoned slug, it may itself be affected by the poison. If you have thrushes around, they will help to control the slug and snail population in your garden, so there should be no need to resort to chemicals.

Useful Reference Books:

The Bird Table Book:
Tony Soper (David & Charles)

How to Make a Wildlife Garden:
Chris Baines (Elm Tree Books)

The RSPB Birdfeeder Handbook:
Robert Burton (Dorling Kindersley)

The Garden Bird Book:
Macmillan in association with the British Trust for Ornithology.


Information supplied by the Young Peoples Trust for the Environment

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source:http://www.yptenc.org.uk/docs/factsheets/env_facts/feed_birds.html

Lawn, garden. birds, feeding

Lawn care

Reverting to the issue of developing a Lawn from scratch, here is the rest of the Article from our friends at http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm

"There are 2 basic types of lawn grasses - your cool-season and warm-season types. Cool-season grasses are hardy, examples include Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue. These grow best in northern, cold-winter climates. As their name suggests, they grow most vigorously in the cool months of the spring and fall seasons. Although they grow slowly in summer, they will stay green through the heat if they're well watered. If you have a cool-season lawn, you need to fertilize it twice: once in late fall, about two weeks before the first frost; and again in late winter to early spring. But go ahead and follow the other steps listed below in early spring when days are still cool. Water this grass about an inch a week, spring through fall.

Warm-season grasses include Bermuda grass and zoysia grass. These grow best in the mild-winter, warm-summer areas of the southern and southwestern United States. These grasses love the summer heat, and tend to go dormant and turn brown in winter. They die in areas where winters are too cold. Begin caring for a warm-season lawn later in the spring, when temperatures are regularly in the mid-80s. Fertilize such grasses in early to mid-spring and again four to six weeks later; do not fertilize in the fall. Water about an inch a week in spring and summer.
Nine Easy Steps to a Better Lawn

Warm-season or cool, all lawns need proper care. Here's how to give your grass a great start.

. Fertilize your lawn. Use a complete lawn fertilizer and apply it, following the recommendations printed on the label. Your lawn will be denser, greener, have fewer weeds and will resist insects and diseases.

. Adjust your soil pH. If your soil is very acidic (likely, if you have abundant summer rainfall), apply powdered limestone to adjust the pH. Talk to the folks at your local nursery or someone at your local cooperative extension office for local advice. These people can help you test your soil pH and tell you the recommended amounts of lime to apply.

. Control weeds. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide, a weed killer that also prevents weeds from reappearing later in the growing season. These herbicides are generally sold in granular form. Do this before weed seeds germinate. To kill broadleaf weeds that appear later, apply a "weed-and-feed" product. Again, timing varies with local conditions, so consult your local nursery for advice. Follow all label instructions carefully.

. Know when to mow. Mow your lawn only when the grass has grown 30 to 50 percent higher than the recommended mowing height. For most cool-season grasses, the recommended height is 3 to 4 inches, so you'd cut when it's 4 to 6 inches high. For most warm-season grasses, the recommended height is 2 to 3 inches, so you'll mow when it's 3 to 4 1/2 inches high. Mow all season, whenever the grass is 30 to 50 percent taller than the recommended height. If you don't let the grass grow too long between mowings, you can leave the clippings on the lawn rather than rake them up. The cut grasses will break down quickly and contribute organic matter and nitrogen to the soil.

. Aerate your lawn. Aerators remove small plugs of grass and soil from the lawn, admitting air to the soil, breaking up mats of dead grass and debris that can accumulate at root level, and invigorating root growth. Aerating also helps water and nutrients penetrate the lawn. You can rent a power aerator at local rental company or hire a lawn-care company to power-aerate for you. The best power aerators work by driving little hollow pistons into the ground that remove tiny cores of soil. For small areas, aerate manually with a sod-coring tool, a special tool that resembles a garden fork.

. Reseed your lawn if necessary. If your cool-season lawn is thin or spotty in places, reseed it. First, roughly rake the area with a steel rake with short, hard tines. Then spread fresh grass seed, following the recommended coverage rates on the seed package. Lightly cover the new seeds with mulch or other >organic matter, and then keep the area moist until the seeds germinate.

. De-thatch your lawn. Thatch is a thick, spongy layer of organic matter and debris that builds up between the grass blades and roots. By keeping water and nutrients from reaching the roots, thatch causes your lawn to grow poorly. Aerating will help to reduce thatch, and you can de-thatch small areas by raking vigorously with a steel rake. But to de-thatch large areas, it's best to rent a power rake or hire a lawn company to do the work for you.

. Check your irrigation system. Each spring, check your irrigation system to make sure it's running properly. Repair clogged and broken sprinkler heads, then adjust your sprinklers so that water falls on the lawn instead of on sidewalks, driveways or patios.

. Water. Most lawns don't need much water early in the season, but if the season has been dry, water deeply. You can tell your lawn is drying when the grass begins to lose color, becoming gray-green or brown. Also, you'll notice that blades don't spring back when you walk across the lawn. Water long enough to wet the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. To measure, push a metal rod into the soil. It will penetrate more easily through moist soil than dry soil, and you can feel the point where the dry soil begins.

Follow these key steps and watch a rich, green carpet of lawn develop, from spring right on through fall."
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm

Lawn care

Lawn Care

Lawn care

Back to Lawns today. Being a lazy kind of adult, I thought about the process of easily developing a Lawn from scratch and the things to consider such as shape, design etc. While I was toying with the idea of putting together an Article on this subject, I came across this excellent short Series of Articles on this very subject at http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm

"Lawns often suffer from being the last thing any gardener thinks of. We tend to lay out the garden beds, plant our perennials, sort out the large garden structures, the little garden ornaments and well...the lawn kind of just sits there like an afterthought really. And yet, a good looking lush lawn is something that's like the icing on the cake for most gardens. Aside from paving, lawn areas make up most of the open space in a garden and acts as a great contrast to the expanses of garden beds, buildings and paths.

As a general rule, most landscape designers would say that the ratio of open spaces to other structures like builidings, garden beds etc should be around 3 to 1. The greater the area that is covered by lawn, the more 'spacious' it looks - however, whilst that may be fine for a football field, that may not be the look you want. Most gardens require areas of 'privacy' or 'seclusion' so vast expanses of lawn are usually not the best option.


Lawn - should you have it?

Ask yourself really hard questions before deciding on a big expanse of lawn. Lawns require mowing and if you are after a low maintenance garden, then lawns are not for you. Did you know that the front lawn of an average house has the equivalent cooling effect of 2 average sized air conditioners? That's a bit of trivia for you!

The benefits of having a lawn (aside from the cooling effects) are :

an open area for play - great for kids who like their ball games and have a knack of falling over often.
lawn is great at binding soil together and is great at preventing soil erosion. Having said that, lawn is not a great idea if you have a steep sloped area because mowing lawn that is on a hill is backbreaking work.

How to pick a lawn shape.

When planning a lawn shape, these are things you need to take into consideration:

Picking a long narrow stretch of lawn does act to draw the eye to the end point - and it could do that to great effect if there is a focal point that you want to draw the attention of the person to eg a statue.

I mentioned before about sloping lawns, well, if the gradient of the slope is any steeper than 1 in 80, you are going to find maintaining that section of lawn hard going.
Using a garden hose to mark out the lawn shape is a tried and tested means of making nice even curves.
Avoid having paths that end up at a lawn - that's because inevitably that section where the lawn meets the path is the one that is nigh impossible to keep growing as the constant trampling at one point wears it out.
When you are planning your lawn, take into account what kind of landscape and garden edging you are planning to have. Having edging that is flush with the lawn means that you can often run the mower over the edge and save you from having to do any lawn trimming.
Try to avoid having lawn flush up against any building or fence line - that would require trimming and means more work."

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm


lawn care,

5 steps to a lush, almost perfect lawn

lawn care, organic, gardening

Well guys, we certainly kicked Tony Blair in the goolies as I hoped we would. Good riddance to bad rubbish! Come on Blair - Do the decent thing and resign today. On more mundane matters, I found this Article at www.american-lawns.com and was attracted by its simplistic, yet effective recommendations. Do the simple things well and regularly and you can't go wrong.

"While there is no magic pill to achieving a better lawn there are some basic steps you can follow that will go a long way in giving you a lush, healthy lawn you'll be proud to walk over. Here then are the 5 basic steps to help anyone achieve a beautiful lawn.

Get the mowing height right for the right time of year.
There's more to mowing than just cutting the grass every saturday. One of the most fundamental steps to a perfect lawn is getting the mowing height right for your type of lawn and for the season.

Most grasses do best with a length of 2 - 3". This applies for spring and early fall. In the summer, if possible, set it even higher. Never go below the minimum recommended height except for the last mowing of the season which should be around 1.5" for most turf grasses.

Mowing height is important because the grass uses the extra length to absorb the sunshine it needs to grow and develop into a healthy plant.

Never remove more than 1/3 at any one mowing. This may mean you'll have to mow more often during prime growing times (usually spring and early fall).

Leave the clippings on the lawn after you mow. This not only save time and energy, but the clippings decompose and add vital nutrients back into the soil. Grass cycling recycles plant nutrients back into the soil. Clippings contain the same beneficial nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium nutrients as that expensive bag of fertilizer. In fact, clippings can provide up to one-third of the annual feeding requirement for your lawn.

Use a sharp blade.
The type of mower doesn't matter, but the blade's condition does. A dull blade tears at the grass. Take a close look at a grass blade a few days after mowing. If the blade is dull you'll notice a jagged brown line across the tip of the cut grass. This is a good indication that your blade needs sharpening. Professional mowers sharpen their blades about every 8 hours of use. For most homeowners, twice a year is recommended.

The jagged edges caused by a dull mower blade make it more difficult for the grass to fight off pests and disease.

Regulate the water intake
Over watering your lawn causes more damage than a lack of water. That's because most turf grasses can handle dry spells, but not flooding. Most grasses require 1 - 1.5" of water per week. This is enough water to moisten the soil to 4 - 6" below the surface for clay soils and 8 - 10" for sandy soils.
Don't guess at how much water your lawn is getting. For measuring Mother Nature's contribution, invest in a rain gauge. If at the end of the week she's contributed enough, hold off adding more. If she comes up short, you'll want to add some supplemental watering. Again, measure how much water your sprinkler is putting down.

You'll have to follow local regulations when there are watering bans, but just remember that less water is acceptable and grass is a very resilient plant. When the rains do return your lawn will come back with a little encouragement on your part.

Give your lawn a regular balanced diet-- but don't over-feed it!
Don't over-feed your lawn with too much of a good thing. 4 balanced fertilizer applications a year is plenty: spring, summer, early fall and after the first frost. If you're in drought conditions, skip the summer feeding. Never skip the fall feeding however. It’s important to use lawn products by following label instructions. Get the best results by following the directions. Overapplication will not improve performance.

Prevention is the best medicine for a healthy lawn
Preventing problems is better than having to correct them. Consistent maintenance is the key. Repair bare spots as needed. Spot treat for weeds with the right herbicide following label directions. Use pre-emergent herbicides for most grassy-type weeds like crabgrass.

Soils can become compacted in high-traffic areas or in areas that have mostly clay soils. Have your lawn aerated once a year, preferably in the fall when soil temperature is around 60 degrees.

That's it. Pretty simple actually and easy to follow."

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: www.american-lawns.comcom

lawn care, organic, gardening

Gardening Calendar - Mid Spring!

lawn care, gardening, calendar

Here in U.K. the weather continues cold and blustery. Some bright days, but the wind is cutting on the North East Coast! We are nearing the beginning of May, when hopefully things will warm up - for us as well as our plants. Here is a Calendar of things to do in the garden in mid Spring from our friends at www.greenzonelife.com

Mid Spring

In mid spring the gardens are full of life, we are now truly into the spring season, the moment of fresh growth and the most exciting season of all seasons in the garden. Everything begin to look green and full of life and the warmer days take us out for longer moments. Is the moment of true joy in every gardener heart and one of the busiest season in the garden.

The warmer days provide ideal conditions for all plants and everything will come to life to transform the garden in a place full of colors and flagrances. The small creatures that have overwintered in our gardens also come back to life from their winter hibernation.

The small seedlings that appear in the trays are the result of the weather conditions that give them the light and warmth and help them to become stronger. Some hardy annuals can now be sown directly outside in the place you want them to grow for the summer display. Be careful to keep a straight row when you sow so you can be able to distinguish the flowers from the weeds that are also starting their growth period.

You can plant gladioli corms, dahlias tubers and chrysanthemums outside, in groups of one variety for a better display. You can start dividing large and congested clumps of decorative grasses or spreading perennials and you can remove the winter protection from the containers.

You can start the clippings on the new growth of the decorative hedges, doing this for maintenance or to give them a new look by creating topiary. Also remember to prune back the flowering shoots of forsythia as soon as its flowers have faded.

Now is a perfect time for a general fertilization and weed-killing using general fertilizer and mulch of bark or compost. For having good crops this year, give some extra attention to your fruiting trees by helping them with a good fertilizer and spreading mulch of compost around them to conserve soil moisture and keep the weeds down. Plant disease-resistant varieties and protect the rest of the others by spraying them with a systemic fungicide.

Mid spring is the time to start the sowing in the vegetable garden too, sow or plant directly outside: herbs, lettuce, broad beans, onion, peas, salads, potatoes or carrots under cloches.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: www.greenzonelife.com

lawn care, gardening

10 Tips for Cutting and Displaying Roses

lawn care, gardening, roses

There is no flower more suitable for cutting than the rose. Strong, sturdy stems, buds that open slowly and elegantly and the bonus of fragrance make roses a favorite in a cutting garden.

Hybrid teas especially lend themselves to cutting. Hybrid tea roses generally produce one perfect blossom at the end of the each stem. Virtually all hybrid tea roses are repeat bloomers throughout the growing season and each blossom may have over 60 petals and be as large as 5 inches across.

Whatever your rose preference, enjoy your blooms even longer with these tips for 4. cutting roses from Marie Iannotti at http://gardening.about.com/od/rose1/a/RoseCutting.htm

10 Tips for Cutting and Displaying Roses

1. Cut roses in after 3 in the afternoon, when they are highest in food reserves.

2. Chooses rose buds that have already begun to open, but that are no more than 1/3 to ½ fully open.

3. Always use clean, sharp pruners to prevent damaging the rose canes and spreading disease.

4. Leave at least 3 leaves on the stem, to feed the plant.

5. Remove all leaves that would be below the water line.

6. Get your roses into water as soon as possible. Bring a bucket of water with you when you cut. If you cut the roses outside without water, re-cut the stems indoors either underwater or immediately plunge them into water.

7. Use either a floral preservative or add a splash of a lemon/lime soda or even a squeeze of lemon and a tablespoon of sugar to the water in the vase.

8 Change the water whenever it starts to get dirty.

9. Let your cut roses have a few hours in a cool spot out of direct sunshine before you display them. This conditioning extends their vase life.

10. If your roses seem to be wilting, water is not able to flow through the stem. Re-cut the stem bottoms and submerge them in very warm, (not so hot you can’t touch it) water and let them sit for about an hour before replacing them in the vase.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.Article Source:
http://gardening.about.com/od/rose1/a/RoseCutting.htm

lawn care, gardening

Lawn Care - So you want a Terrific Lawn?

lawn care, gardening

The thing about gardening, as about life, is to do the simple things regularly and well. The result far outweighing the sum of the individual parts. As an example of this I recommend the following Article from our friends at www.yardcare.com

If you want to have a terrific lawn:

1. Fix the soil and maintain it every year without fail
To grow great grass you need good dirt – healthy humus rich soil filled with earthworms and beneficial microbes. To create good soil, I recommend an annual application of organic material such as autumn leaves or Canadian sphagnum peat moss to your lawn. Use your mulching mower to mulch an inch or so of finely chopped leaves into the grass each fall or spread a 1/8th inch of Canadian sphagnum peat moss on the lawn in the spring and/or the fall. You get a 1/8th inch layer by spreading the peat moss with a grass rake and raking it in so thoroughly it’s no longer visible among the blades of grass.

2. Overseed the lawn every 3 to 4-years even if it looks great
A lawn that is as dense as brand new sod, year after year, will have few weeds. To get the lawn thick, overseed the lawn in the fall or spring once or twice the first year. Once the second year, and then make it a routine to reseed every 3 or 4 years even if the lawn is looking really good.

3. Use a mulching lawnmower
A good mulching lawn mower chops up the grass so fine there are never any clumps left on top of the turf. Recycling clippings back into the lawn for an entire season provides the grass plants as much nitrogen as there is in a application of fertilizer. However, the most important reason, by far for using a mulching mower is to be able to chop leaves finely enough in the fall to leave an inch of chopped leaves on the lawn over the winter to feed those earthworms and beneficial soil microbes that reduce compaction, provide nutrients, and improve drainage.

4. Mow the lawn properly
For the best appearance and good health of lawn grass, mow high using a sharp blade. A dull blade will tear rather than cut the lawn leaving a ragged end on the grass blades that cast a dull haze over the lawn. That ragged edge also leaves the grass more vulnerable to disease. Depending on the size of the lawn, a mower blade becomes dull after one or two seasons and should be sharpened or replaced every year or two. Grass that is dense and cut over 2-inches tall has few weeds and serves as habitat for ants, spiders, and ground beetles which keep the pest insects of a lawn in check. Tall grass shades the soil reducing evaporation of moisture and will not burn out in the heat of summer. Set the mower for 2 to 2-1/2 inches in the spring and fall and raise it to 3 inches in summer.

5. Use only slow release granular fertilizer
Quick release nitrogen fertilizers need to be applied three or four times a year in order to be effective. High in salts, the increased salinity burns turf roots and repels the valuable earthworms and kill many of the beneficial soil microbes. Slow release nitrogen fertilizer needs to be applied only once or twice a year and will not hurt the soil critters. Use slow release nitrogen fertilizer in the spring and again in the fall for a few years, but if you are taking care of your soil, you can drop back to a single application in the fall, or split the application putting down half the recommended amount in spring and half in fall.

6. Avoid watering too much or too little
The key questions in watering the lawn are: “When does the grass need to be watered?” and “How much do I need to water?”. When you walk over a lawn that is mowed tall, you will leave temporary footprints. If the footprints disappear with the grass popping back upright within a minute or two the grass has enough water. If the foot prints last more than 3 or 4 minutes, the lawn needs to be watered. In spring and fall between your hose and Mother Nature, give the lawn an inch of water each week. Lawns need two inches a week in the heat of the summer. An empty tuna fish can is one inch deep so put a few empty tuna cans out in the pattern of your sprinkler and track the time to see how long it takes to fill the cans and you can quickly figure how to deliver an accurate amount of water to the lawn. A rain gauge will help you keep track of Mother Nature’s contribution.

7. Avoid using any broad spectrum insecticides
A lawn that is dense and mowed tall is likely to be inhabited by a healthy population of beneficial insects, including ants, spiders, and ground beetles, seldom has any problems from fleas, grubs, sod webworms, chinch bugs or any other lawn grass insect pest. If you routinely use a broad spectrum insecticide each year, you will kill all the good guys along with the bad guys. If the grass is mowed tall and kept dense from overseeding, those beneficial insects will eliminate the need for the annual use of the insecticide.

8. Spread lime only if needed in late fall, not in the spring
Use lime on the lawn only if you are sure that your soil is acidic enough to justify it. A soil test is the only accurate way to tell. Contact your County Extension Service to get a soil test kit and related information. If you do apply lime, use a granular lime product in October or even in November. It takes six months for granular lime to break down sufficiently to be helpful to the grass plants.

9. Buy only the highest quality grass seed
Only the top quality grass seed includes varieties that have been bred with good disease resistance, look good, and are drought resistant. When you buy the high-end brands, you can trust the grass seed companies to give you the right mixture for the northeast. Buy full sun mix if your lawn gets over 6 hours of sun a day. Use a shade mixture if your lawn gets 3 to 6 hours of sun a day. Any lawn getting less than 3 hours of sun a day must be overseeded every spring to look even average for the season.

10. Get rid of grubs and moles by growing good soil
Grubs and moles are only a problem in lawns that are compacted and have turf with roots only two inches deep. If you add organic matter to the soil under your turf on a yearly basis, the earthworms and soil microbes lower the level of compaction over time, so after 3 to 5 years, the grubs and moles are working down at the 4 to 6 inch depth and are not evident in your lawn.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.yardcare.com

lawn care, gardening

Gardening - How Not to Dig a Garden Pond!

lawn care, gardening, pond

After my rants of the last 2 days, I thought it was time to lighten up! I was thinking of putting in a small pond in my garden so that I could attract birds, bees, wildlife and so on, when I came across this Article by Michael Hillman at www.emmitsburg.net

Michael owns a Farm called Windy Meadow Farm just south east of Emmitsburg in the U.S.A. and I do like his humour and general approach to life, so I make no apologies for publishing this humourous Article and wish I could have the same life style as Michael.

"The arrival of the first robin, by tradition, is recognized by most as the first sign of spring. Around our farm however, it's the congregating of neighbors around the strawberry patch, daiquiri glasses in hand, that signals the formal arrival of spring. Although the strawberry patch has become the focal point of June-long Bacchus celebrations of friends near and far, it is only the most recent addition to a long line of gardening wonders that Audrey has created since we moved here.

While researching the history of the farm, I was struck by the ebb and flow of the many gardens that have graced this farm over the past one hundred years. Longtime residents talked in reverent tones about the vast and lush gardens of Anna Schealy, who owned the farm from 1918 to 1940. Unfortunately, following the Anna's death, the gardens fell into disrepair. Following the sale of the farm, the house's status changed from one of a primary residence to that of a tenant house. By the time the Sixes took up residence in the 50's, proof of Anna Schealy's gardening wonders had all but evaporated.

In 1950, the Sixes family began their long residence in the house. In spite of the fact that Mrs. Sixes suffered from cancer during most of her tenure on the farm, she turned what energy she did have to cultivating numerous flower gardens. In the many pictures provided by her daughter, Betty Glass, tulips - Mrs. Sixes favorite flower - are prominent. This spring, as the tulips once again provided the first burst of color in the gardens, one couldn't help but smile at the thought of Mrs. Sixes nodding from above in approval of Audrey's efforts.

By the time Audrey put her gardening tools to work around the farm, all evidence of previous gardens had once again disappeared. Audrey spent most of the first winter on the farm designing a vast array of gardens. At first I paid little attention to Audrey's gardening plans, and with good reason, for up until this time, all I had seen of her gardening skill was enclosed within a 6-by-6 foot garden at the veterinary hospital she managed. But, like a little kid with a box of crayons facing a newly painted white wall, Audrey drew garden designs that impressed even our mothers, gardeners extraordinaire in their own right.

Of English lineage, Audrey took to gardening as a fish takes to water. By the end of our first spring, the house once again sported gardens around its entire circumference. Unfortunately, a lot of her initial plantings failed to survive. Quickly recognizing that gardening in clayey soil, hot summers, and a windy environment would require expert advice, Audrey turned to Barb and Marlene at Alloway Gardens in Littlestown for help. Barb and Marlene had "been there" and "done that" and as a result had a solution for every situation Audrey faced. For quite some time, Audrey's Alloway allowance rivaled mine at the local hardware store.

During our second year on the farm, Audrey immersed herself in enlarging and upgrading the gardens around the house and the old barn, all the time, however eyeing our large backyard. Claiming frustration over the hours wasted every week in mowing this large plot of grass, Audrey decided it would make a perfect wildflower meadow and set about collecting wildflower seeds from every part of the country. The following spring, after diligently tilling the soil, she spread the seeds and sat back to wait for the rains to do their magic. Unfortunately, the rains never came that year and by midsummer the much anticipated wildflower garden had become a dust bowl.

The following spring, heavy rains brought abundant growth to the wildflower meadow, but not of the nature Audrey anticipated. Weeds of every shape and size quickly took over the meadow, choking out any wildflower that had managed to germinate. Frustrated but far from beaten, Audrey returned to her drawing board and countless gardening books. Slowly but surely, with help from Barb and Marlene, Audrey drew up the plans for her dream: a formal English garden.

Encompassing most of the backyard, the garden would consist of ten raised beds, varying in length from sixteen to sixty-five feet and in widths from four to sixteen feet. The garden also included a pond for goldfish and toads and was to be enclosed by a white picket fence. Having long since learned how to deal with my propensity to procrastinate, Audrey presented her plans to me shortly after agreeing to allow me to purchase a new horse. Needless to say, I was in no position to object or quibble about the garden's size or cost.

After transplanting a maple seedling - the only item worth saving from the "weed meadow" - to the front of the barn, construction began in earnest. The soil was roto-tilled until it was as fine as sand. Next, a dump truck load of quality top soil, procured from Emmitsburg's own McNair's stone and soil supply, and countless bags of lime, were roto-tilled in to improve the nutrient quality of the clay soil. With blueprints in hand, the location of each bed was laid out and marked by stakes and strings. The walkways between the beds were excavated eight inches below grade and the dirt mounded in the beds, thereby 'raising' the beds above grade.

Once the wood to support the beds was delivered, the actual construction went quickly. Being well ahead of schedule, I took a weekend off to show my new horse. While unloading him from the trailer, I startled him by smacking him on the butt to hurry up, he replied in kind by kicking me in the leg. Needless to say, the full leg cast I found myself in an hour later conveniently ending my participation in the garden project for the remainder of the year.

The following spring, before Audrey allowed me to resume riding, the construction left dormant all winter was completed. As a final touch, as if placing icing on a cake, Audrey found some beautiful multicolor stones, which were spread for the walkways between the many beds. With the beds now completed, Audrey set about planting countless varieties of plants, flowers, and herbs. In accordance with her master plan, each bed in the garden was planted to bloom at a different time.

This plan succeeded so now, from early spring to late fall, there is always one section of the garden in bloom to attract her beloved birds, butterflies and hummingbirds. As a result of her meticulous designs, guests are always treated to brilliant colors, fragrant aromas, and in the evening, countless hummingbirds and butterflies back-dropped by spectacular sunsets. The formal garden has become a favorite gathering place for our friends. Which, in a roundabout way, gets me back to the strawberry patch.

In addition to plants bearing Latin names that I can neither spell nor pronounce, Audrey planted carrots for the horse, catnip for our five cats, potatoes for me (I was bad that year), and strawberries for herself. The first strawberry crop was small, and she harbored her daily harvest with greed. Every morning while she dined on strawberries and cream, I was expected to choke down lukewarm Pop-Tarts.

Unwilling to undergo another season of listening to my whining, that fall, Audrey agreed to triple the size of the strawberry patch. The favorable rains the following spring brought about what can only be called a bumper crop, and for several weeks we ate strawberries for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. While it was fun at first, with no end to the harvest in sight, we both agreed an alternative way of disposing of strawberries had to be found. Audrey suggested giving them away to friends and neighbors. I on the other hand, suggested using them in strawberry daiquiris.

My completely logical argument that making and sharing daiquiris would fulfill the spirit of Audrey's suggestion - only with the strawberries in a different form - fell on deaf ears, and she proceeded to waste them by giving them away unaltered. As fate would have it however, everyone else was having bumper crops of strawberries. So I got the go ahead to execute Plan B: the creation of the perfect strawberry Daiquiri.

It just so happens that the quest began on what would turn out to be the hottest days of that summer. It also happened to coincide with my plans to dig the goldfish pond in the garden. Knowing it was going to be hot that day, I began digging around seven in the morning. By 10:30, with the temperature pushing 90 degrees, I had dug out less then a quarter of what was planned. With motivation waning, I decided to begin my daiquiri experiments.

As near as I can remember, the first few pitchers didn't really make the grade, but they did make the digging go easier. By the time I finished the third pitcher, I found myself filling the hole back in. Half way through the fifth pitcher, when I found myself digging in the front yard instead of the garden, I knew I had the perfect recipe. Unfortunately, I was in no condition to write, which was immaterial, since by that time I couldn't remember what I was putting into them anyway.

The following morning, Audrey woke me just before sunrise from a rather sound sleep and insisted that I fill in the holes in the front yard, pointedly reminding me that the pond was supposed to be behind the house, not in front of it. Progress went quickly, in spite of the pounding in my head and by early afternoon the excavation of the pond was completed. The shovel had no sooner been put away then friends began to gather and inquire about the nature of the holes in the front yard and on the state of my sanity for digging on such a hot day. Audrey, unable to resist, told the story of my secret daiquiri experiments, and I was immediately swamped with offers to serve as guinea pigs for future taste testing.

With pleas to resume the experiments growing louder by the minute, I finally ignored the throbbing in my head and set about making more daiquiris. Unlike the day before, however, the formula for each new pitcher was duly noted and recorded. Like the day before, by the time we got around to the fifth pitcher, no one really cared anymore. After solving most of the worlds problems, including the national debt, global warming, time travel, and peeling fence paint, the exact contents of our glasses didn't seem to matter much.

Fortunately, I did somehow manage to record the formula for the seventh pitcher, during which we collectively put to rest the question of the nature of extraterrestrial life and its impact on next year’s TV show line up. Since after this pitcher no one present remembers anything else, it, by default, was the winning recipe:

8 ounces of dark rum (Myer's or better)
1 ½ quarts fresh strawberries
6 ounces of Lime juice
2 to 3 more ounces of rum
3 to 5 cups of crushed ice4 heaping tablespoons of sugar
2 to 3 more Ounces of rum,
Add rum to taste

The rum is placed in the blender first, followed by the strawberries, which should be halved. Blend together for one minute. Next, add the sugar and lime juice and blend together for another minute. The contents should be sampled at this time, and any additional rum or sugar added to suit one's taste. One should always remember however, to always error on the side of extra rum. Once satisfied, add the crushed ice, another shot of rum, another tablespoon of sugar, and another handful of strawberries. Blend to a smooth texture.

With Daiquiri in hand, sit back and have a long, good conversation with a friend.

Enjoy!"

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: www.emmitsburg.net



roses,lawn care, gardening

Rose Growing The Easy Way - Part 2!

Roses, gardening, lawn care

Following on from yesterday's Article by Brad Jalbert at www.rosemagazine.com, we conclude with the second and last part today. In this troubled World, I often think we have lost touch with Nature and that the Consumer Society has insulated us from Reality. It's a fact that most people wouldn't know how to grow food to keep their families alive in an emergency. Most people today are reliant on Supermarkets to provide their food, pre-wrapped and packaged, ready to go in the oven, or already cooked. Little do they realise that Supermarkets, by their very nature, carry only sufficient stocks to keep the shelves stacked, so as to enhance cash flow. The result is that we are all within 1 month of starving to death in the event of a Catastrophe.
How many people actually have reserves of food stocked up in their Larders? How many people could even light and heat their homes without electricity and gas supplies? How many people even know how to grow things other than weeds in their garden?
It's a sad indictment of modern day Society that all the hard won survival experience of our forefathers has, in the main, been lost.
God help us in the event of a real emergency. We are so cocooned from reality, from the World as it really is, that I fear for us all!
Enough already! Rant over for the day. Getting back to roses, here is the second part of the Article!

Step By Step Planting

1. Dig an appropriate sized hole for the root ball, loosening surrounding soil. Usually a 2ft by 2ft hole for large roses and a 1 foot hole for minis.

2. Add some compost or well rotted manure to the hole plus a handful of bone meal. Mix gently and taste ( just kidding). Spread the roots over this mixture positioning the crown at the soil level or slightly below, and refill around the roots with more of your good mixture. Firm the plant and water well. Water is really the secret in helping a rose or any plant get off to a good start in life. Remember to water a new plant often, especially if the weather turns hot.

Fertilizing

This is the really easy part of rose growing. The first and most important type of rose food is plain old water. A rose that is well watered throughout the summer will grow far better than one that's treated to loads of chemical rose foods but little water. I use organic fertilizer outside with great success. Seakelp is excellent as are fish fertilizers and Canola meal. Many people like the all purpose rose foods available in most garden centres. Try not to get to hung up on stuffing your rose plant full of rose foods, and apply only a small handful about every six weeks if you remember. Fertilizer should not be applied after July 15 , as the plants need to use up what's in the soil and 'harden up' for winter. If all of this sounds too confusing, just throw a handful down before and after the first bloom, and your sure to get pretty roses.

Pests & Diseases

The old saying "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" certainly holds true here. Planting a rose in good soil with plenty of sunshine and air circulation is your first and most important defense against insect and disease problems. Mildew and Blackspot are the two most troublesome problems but with a little effort can be easily controlled. If you don't want to spray fungicides at all, then be sure to plant disease- free roses like the Rugosas or one of the healthiest of the others. Strip off all the leaves before your rose begins to regrow in the spring and watch for any sign of trouble.

Most home gardeners can grow great roses without the use of insecticides. Aphids are easily washed off a plant or are soon eaten up by beneficial insects in a healthy garden. Other insects can be picked off or given the hose treatment. Spider mites are a real problem for people who spray often, but seldom bother the organic garden. When it comes to insects and disease, roses are truly highly over- rated, as many other types of plants from tomatoes to carrots have their troubles but we seem to demand perfection from our roses. Try not to be to concerned about the odd spoiled leaf but take reasonable precautions against bad outbreaks.

I have often wondered why people make such a fuss over growing roses and worry about the insects and diseases that could strike, and miss all the fun. I guess roses are just one of those plants that exude such majestic beauty, that we assume they must be difficult to cultivate. In my few short years of growing roses I have learned two things: some people just love complaining about roses, while others just love roses."

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: www.rosemagazine.com


roses,lawn care, gardening

Rose Growing the Easy Way - Part 1!

gardening, lawn care, roses

Lawns by themselves are beautiful things. On their own, they enhance any garden. However, to really set off your Lawn, there can be no finer sight then a border edging of beautiful roses. Our Article today comes from Brad Jalbert at www.rosemagazine.com and gives sound advice on how to grow Roses without headaches. Following the tragic circumstances in America during the last few days, I thought that dwelling on these beautiful flowers might act as a soothing balm and a loving tribute to all those poor Students who died so tragically on their Campus. God keep them!

"Roses are probably the most misunderstood and undervalued plants in the modern landscape. Most people seem to believe that all garden roses are troublesome, frail plants that need to be pampered and fussed over with weekly sprays and frequent fertilizing. While this can be true for the devoted, exhibitor, it simply does not have to be the case for the average gardener like myself who likes to look at pretty flowers. I grow over 400 roses of all types in my garden with an absolute minimum of fuss. Most of the time is actually spent cutting roses for friends, family and people just walking through the garden.

If you are new to roses, it would be a good idea to become vaguely familiar with the many different types:

Hybrid Teas: This is the flower that everyone pictures when we think about what a rose should look like. The classic spiral centre and individual long stem make this the most popular of the rose classes. The modern hybrid tea can be an excellent garden plant, as breeders are concentrating on improving disease resistance and overall garden performance. Many people believe that fragrance has been bred out of the modern rose, but there are many excellent tea roses with strong perfumes and more being introduced each year. Rose breeders realize that people still want fragrance in their gardens. Hybrid Teas are great for the formal garden, but should not be limited to this use. If you don't want be bothered with fussing about roses, be sure to seek the advice of an experienced rose grower who can advise you on the healthy and hardy varieties for your climate.

Climbing Roses: The modern climber is usually a repeat bloomer and grows around 10 to 12 feet tall or wide. There are so many different types available that it's hard to describe them in one paragraph. Let me just say that they are the anchor plants of my garden and definitley the favorite plants of visitors.

Floribundas: Commonly called cluster flowered roses. These come in many shapes and colours. Like the Hybrid Teas, many varieties have excellent perfume, combined with unmatched flower power. Bloom shape can be ruffled and informal or high centred like the HTs. Floribundas are generally considered to be excellent landscape plants, providing bloom from June to Hard Frost. Most varieties grow from 2 to 4 feet tall, but there are a few large ones in this class, ( the Americans call the big ones Grandifloras). Several modern varieties are capable of having over 50 blooms at the same time, with only a short rest in between the repeat cycle. If you're looking for roses that are well mannered and provide armloads of cut flowers, try planting a few floribundas.

Old Garden and Shrub roses: These two classes are roses are separate from one another but have similar growth habits. The shrub rose are without question the most underrated plant in the landscape. It's a shame that more people haven't taken the time to familiarize themselves with this group of plants. Shrub roses are a huge part of the rose family with growth habits varying from low ground cover types to large impenetrable hedge types. I have seen a few cities and parks make use of the mediland shrub roses, but with so many types available for the home gardener it's a wonder that more are not sold in nurseries. The shrub type roses are usually very winter hardy and healthy, with the Rugosa's being completely disease free. Some of the shrubs have an added bonus of colourful fall hip displays . If you're the type of gardener who wants a lot of bang for you buck, then this is the type of rose for you.

Mini roses: A really fascinating group of roses with all the characteristics of large rose reduced to mini proportions. You can even find miniature climbing roses with smaller flowers and leaves growing to about 7 feet tall. Most types grow about 14 inches high, are everblooming and come in every colour except true blue or black. These plants are not house plants, but will flourish in any home garden with minimal care.

Now that you're familiar with the various types of roses, lets get on with the best kept secret on the web, "How to grow Roses the Easy Way".

As with many types of plants, variety is extremely important if you want to be a successful rose gardener. There are many hundreds of red roses on the market at any given time but only a few that are best suited for our climate and soil types. Try to find out what the best ones are for your area and then buy a #1 plant from a reputable nursery. Two for one roses rarely amount to much, especially when planted late in the season.

Roses are best planted in the fall or early Spring. Dormant plants are preferred over fully leafed out plants except for container grown and mini roses. Mini roses are usually purchased fully leafed out and best planted when the weather begins to warm in April or May. If you are transplanting an established rose bush, wait until fall or early spring when the plant is dormant, and remember to give it a judicious pruning.

Site and exposure requirements depend on the type of rose. Usually 5 to 6 hours of sun is preferred for most roses but there are a few shrubs, climbers and Rugosa types that will grow in more shaded situations. If you must choose between morning or afternoon sunshine, take the earlier option. Early morning sun will dry off the leaves, helping to prevent mildew and blackspot. Roses will tolerate a windy exposed site provided that hardy varieties are chosen or a winter mulch is applied to protect from harsh winter conditions."

We will continue this Article tomorrow, when we can go into planting techniques.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: www.rosemagazine.com


roses,lawn care, gardening

Gardening - Beware of Toxic Mulch!

lawn care, gardening, toxic, mulch

When I was putting together yesterday's Article on growing your own tomatoes, I came across this Article by our old friend Michael J McGroarty at http://gardening-articles.com
It deals with the subject of Mulch, and refers mainly to the USA, but I think there is value in the Article for all gardeners!

Mulching beds has become extremely popular these days, and mulch can be really beneficial to your plants and the soil in your planting beds, but there are things you need to watch for.

Here in Ohio the most popular type of mulch that people use is shredded hardwood bark mulch, which is a by product of the timber industry. When they haul the logs into the sawmill the first thing they do is debark them. Years ago the bark was a huge problem for the mills because there didn't seem to be a useful purpose for it, until people realized the hidden benefits that it held. Still to this day, the bark is a headache for the saw mills, and they don't always understand how to properly handle it.

They like to pile it as high as they can so it takes up less space in their yard. The mulch really tends to back up during the winter months because there is little demand for it. In order for the mills to pile the mulch high, they literally have have to drive the large front end loaders up onto the pile. Of course the weight of these large machines compacts the mulch in the pile, and this can become a huge problem for you or I if we happen to get some mulch that has been stacked too high, and compacted too tightly.

When the trees are first debarked the mulch is fairly fresh, and needs to decompose before we dare use it around our plants. The decomposition process requires oxygen and air flow into the pile. When the mulch is compacted too tight, this air flow can not take place, and as the mulch continues to decompose it becomes extremely hot as the organic matter ferments. Sometimes the extreme heat combined with the inability to release the heat can cause the pile to burst into flame through spontaneous combustion.

In other cases the mulch heats up, can not release the gas, and the mulch actually becomes toxic. When this occurs the mulch develops an overbearing odor that will take your breath away as you dig into the pile. When you spread this toxic mulch around your plants the gas it contains is released, and this gas can and will burn your plants.

It has happened to me twice. Once at my own house, and once on a job I was doing for a customer. This toxic mulch is very potent. We spilled a little mulch in the foliage of a Dwarf Alberta Spruce that we were mulching around, and just a few minutes later brushed the mulch out of the plant. The next day my customer noticed that one side of the plant was all brown. The mulch had only been there for a matter of minutes.

Not only did I have to replace the Dwarf Alberta Spruce, but the mulch also damaged at least 10 other plants that I had to replace. I once saw where somebody ordered a truckload of mulch, had it dumped in their driveway, and as the toxic mulch slid out of the dump truck onto the asphalt the toxic gas that was released settled on the lawn next to the driveway.

The gas, not the mulch, turned the grass brown next to the mulch pile.

This same person spread several yards of the mulch around their house before they realized the problem, and it ruined many of their plants.

Now here's the hard part. Trying to explain to you how to identify toxic mulch. It has a very strong odor that will take your breath away. But then again almost all mulch has a powerful odor. This is very different than your typical mulch smell, but I can't explain it any better than that.

The mulch looks perfectly normal, maybe a little darker in color than usual. If you suspect a problem with the mulch you have, take a couple of shovels full, and place it around an inexpensive plant. Maybe just a couple of flowers. When doing this test use mulch from inside the mulch pile and not from the edges. The mulch on the edge of the pile has more than likely released most of the toxic gas that it may have held.

If after 24 hours the test plants are okay, the mulch should be fine. The
purpose of this article is not to induce panic at the mulch yard, but toxic mulch can do serious damage. At my house it burned the leaves right off some of the plants in my landscape, and burned the grass next to the bed all the way around the house. It looked like somebody had taken a torch and burned the grass back about 2” all the way around the bed. If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes I wouldn't have believed it.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.http://gardening-articles/.com

lawn care, gardening, toxic, mulch

Gardening - Planting Tomatoes in your Garden!

lawn care, gardening

For a change I thought I would leave the subject of Lawns alone for a while. I was having Lunch yesterday and noticed that the tomatoes I was eating actually came from the Canary Islands. Can you imagine that? The UK is importing tomatoes. Unbelievable. I bet the all powerful Supermarkets will have something to do with this decision. Something about cheap labour springs to mind. Buy low and sell high is their maxim. Anyway, before I go off on a rant, let me recommend the following article to you by Kathy Anderson on the question of growing your own tomatoes in your own garden. The Empire Strikes Back!!!

"Tomatoes are without a doubt one of the most popular vegetables in
the home garden, and for good reason. Homegrown tomatoes are
very nutritious and much more flavorful than those bought from a
store. Tomato plants will produce an abundance of fruit for the home
gardener if they are properly planted and cared for.

Tomatoes require a fairly long growing season, and for this reason the
seeds are typically planted indoors about six to eight weeks before they can be planted in the garden. The seeds can be sown 1/4" deep in small pots or flats in a soil less potting mix or sterilized potting soil. It takes 7-14 days at a temperature of 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit for the seeds to germinate. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Placing plastic wrap loosely over the pots or flats will help maintain the humidity necessary for germination, but the plastic wrap must be removed once the seedlings sprout.

Bottom heat helps to speed the germination process. Garden centers and catalogs sell heating cables made just for this purpose, but you may also set the pots or flats on top of your water heater to take advantage of its warmth for germination.

As soon as the seedlings emerge, they should be moved to an area with full light, such as a sunny window or under grow lights. They should have light on them for about 12 hours a day and should be kept at a temperature of 70-80 degrees. Fertilize the seedlings with a water-soluble fertilizer when they're about 3-4 weeks old, but dilute the fertilizer to about half the strength recommended on the label.

The little tomato plants will be accustomed to fairly steady and warm temperatures indoors, and planting them directly outside could come as quite a shock to them, especially when nighttime temperatures are still cool. About a week before it's time to plant them in the garden, begin to gradually introduce them to outdoor conditions. This is called hardening off, and it simply involves moving the plants gradually to conditions more like what they'll experience in the garden.

Start hardening them off by moving the plants to an enclosed porch for a day or two, then to a sunny spot outdoors that is protected from the wind. If the temperature threatens to take a drastic downward dip, bring the plants back indoors until it warms up outside again.

Tomatoes were originally found only in very warm climates. They don't like to be cold and should not be planted outside until the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up. That's typically late May or even early June here in northern Ohio.

The sooner tomatoes are planted outside, the sooner they will begin to produce ripe fruit, and there are a few tricks that make it possible to plant tomatoes in the garden a bit earlier.

The garden soil may be warmed up by covering it with clear or white plastic for a few days. The little tomato plants will be much happier with their roots in warm soil. Once the plants are in the garden, the foliage can be protected from a light frost by covering the plants with plastic gallon jugs that have their bottoms removed, or with plastic or
fabric sheets placed over the plants. Suspend this over the plants using wire hoops so the plastic or fabric doesn't touch the foliage.

When you are ready to transplant your tomato seedlings into the garden, be sure to choose a spot for them that gets full sun for at least 8 hours a day. Dig a hole for each plant that is large enough to easily accommodate all of the roots. Before transplanting, water the plants
while they are still in the pot. This not only helps prevent transplant shock, but it also makes it easier to slip the plant from the pot.

Tomato plants will grow roots from any part of the stem that is buried beneath the soil, so the plants will benefit from being planted deeply, up to the first set of leaves. If the plants have spent too much time in pots and have become leggy, they may be planted in furrows with their too-long stems laid in the furrow and gently buried with soil. This will
help the plants develop a strong root system while preventing the long stem from breaking.

Fill in the planting hole with soil, pressing the soil in firmly to eliminate air pockets. Then give the plants a good drink of water, thoroughly soaking the soil around them.

If you plan on staking or trellising your tomato plants, they can be planted about 2-3 feet apart. Plants that will be allowed to sprawl on the ground will need more room and should be planted 4-6 feet apart.

If the soil is still a bit cool, your white or clear plastic may be placed on the ground beneath the plants to warm the soil. Once warmer temperatures have settled in, this plastic should be removed to avoid burning the foliage with reflective heat.

It is important to keep tomato leaves up off the soil to help prevent soil-borne diseases from attacking the plants. This can easily be done by applying straw mulch around the plants. But straw mulch should only be applied once the soil has warmed up above 70 degrees. If the mulch is laid down while the soil is still cool, it will keep the soil from
warming up as it should, your tomato plants will suffer from cold feet and won't produce as well as they could.

Planting your tomatoes properly is an important step toward a bountiful harvest of sweet, juicy fruit. In another article we'll discuss how to trellis and prune tomato plants to increase your harvest."

Kathy Anderson has been an avid gardener for many years and has grown tomatoes by the acre, along with many other vegetables, flowers and landscape plants. Kathy recommends http://www.freeplants.com as a great place to learn more about gardening. Article provided by http://gardening-articles.com.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.http://gardening-articles/.com


lawn care, gardening

Lawn Care

lawn care. gardening

Hi again Folks - Back from my holidays, refreshed and raring to go! As a matter of interest I visited Fort William and the Isle of Skye in Scotland while I was away. What wonderful scenery, and the weather was great. God must have been having a good day when he made Scotland. And then he went and spoiled it by inhabiting it with the most moaning, whingeing, chip on shoulder men in dresses it has ever been my misfortune to meet. The only thing those anti-social Neanderthals can do well is moan and drink. I am sad to say that the only good thing that came out of Scotland was the road south to England!

On to happier things - I came across this Article on Lawn Care by Michael J McGroarty (God I hope he's not Scottish!) at http://gardening-articles.com. which I recommend to you all.


Lawn Care Tips

by Michael J. McGroarty


A beautiful lawn does not come without some effort. Depending upon what type of soil you have, the amount of effort will vary. For instance when raising trees and shrubs, sandy or a gravel base soil is great. Landscape plants like well drained soiled. A lawn on the other hand is different. Lawn grasses grow constantly throughout the growing season, and need an ample supply of both nutrients and water.

The most basic of lawn care tips includes regular watering and fertilization is required to keep a lawn beautiful. If you’re lucky enough to have a lawn that was originally planted in good rich topsoil, you won’t have to work near as hard as somebody like me, who has a lawn that is planted in sandy gravel. The soil at our house has little nutritional value, nor does it have the ability to retain any amount of moisture. By mid May my lawn starts drying out. It is very difficult for us to keep our lawn looking nice.

Lawns are one area where a little clay in the soil is a good thing. Of course standing water is not good, but having soil that has the ability to retain some moisture is helpful. If you happen to be installing a new lawn, here's a news flash from my lawn care tips that will make all the difference in the world: Add lots of organic matter before you install your new lawn if you have sand or gravel type soil. The easiest way to do this is to find some good rich topsoil and spread that over your existing soil.

Because most lawn grasses grow so vigorously, they need additional amounts of nutrients added in order to stay looking nice. Just use one of the four step programs offered by the fertilizer companies. Most of these programs also include weed control along with the fertilizer. Here in the north we basically have two concerns with weeds in our lawns.

Crabgrass can be a problem, and I do consider it a weed. In order to control crabgrass you must use a pre-emergent herbicide that will prevent the crabgrass seeds from germinating. In order for this herbicide to be effective you must apply it early in the spring while the soil temperature is still below 45° F.

Broadleaf weeds such as Dandelions are another problem, although fairly easy to control with a broadleaf weed control. Most broadleaf herbicides are mixed in with the fertilizers, and must be applied when the grass and weeds are damp. The wet foliage will cause the herbicide to stick to the weed, giving the herbicide time to be absorbed by the weed. Once absorbed the herbicide translocates through the weed plant and kills it completely.

These types of herbicides are considered “selective” since they seem to know the difference between a grass plant and a weed. That’s why they only kill the broadleaf weeds and not the grass itself. However, many people have different kinds of thick bladed grass in their lawn such as quack grass. Quack grass is on the ugly side, and can really detract from a lawn. The problem is, it is still in the grass family, and “selective” herbicides leave it alone because it is a card carry member of the grass family.

So what’s a person to do?

In order to get rid of these thick bladed grasses you must use a “non-selective” herbicide, and “non-selective” herbicides don’t care who they kill. Well, at least that’s true in the plant kingdom. When you use a “non-selective” herbicide you must understand that everything that you spray is going to die, but it really is the only effective way to rid your lawn of undesirable thick bladed grasses. This type of treatment is effective if you have isolated areas that contain wide bladed grasses. You’ll have to spray all the grass in the area, then reseed with good quality grass seed.

My herbicide of choice for this type of spraying is RoundUp®. It is believed that RoundUp® does not have any residual effect, which means that it does not linger in the soil. That means that the new grass seed or the young grass plants will not be affected by the herbicide. Being a non-selective herbicide you must be careful when spraying, making sure that the spray does not drift onto other plants or lawn areas that you do not want to kill.

To keep the spray from drifting adjust the nozzle so that the spray pattern is narrow with larger spray droplets. You do not want a fine atomized spray if there is danger of spray drift. It also helps to keep the pressure in the sprayer as low as possible. Pump the sprayer a minimum number of times, to keep the pressure low. You just want enough pressure to deliver the spray, but not atomize it to the point that it can be easily carried by the wind.

Buy a sprayer just for herbicides and mark it as such. You never want to spray plants with a sprayer that has been used for herbicides.

Once you have sprayed the area you want to kill, wait three days before doing anything else. After a period of three days the grasses that you sprayed may not look any different, but if they have been properly sprayed, they will die. It takes three days for the herbicide to translocate throughout the entire plant, then the plants will die. So even though the weeds and grass plants look fine, you can start digging and chopping and not worry about them growing back. If you start digging and chopping before the three day period you will interrupt the herbicide, and the weeds and grass you were trying to kill may come back.

If you happen to be installing a new lawn, make sure you spray all the weeds and thick bladed grasses before you start. Once you have the lawn installed, you sure don’t want to go through all the trouble of killing areas of your lawn and reseeding. If you make sure that all of these undesirables have been killed before you start, you’ll be way ahead of the game.

When selecting grass seed, you should always use a blend that is recommend for your area. Here in the north a popular blend contains fine bladed perennial rye grass, fescue, and blue grass. Keep in mind that it takes blue grass seeds 28 days to germinate, while most perennial rye grasses germinate in 5 or 6 days, so you never want to plant a lawn that is 100% Kentucky blue grass. Before the blue grass seeds have a chance to germinate, every kind of weed imaginable will already be actively growing in your lawn.

With a blend, the faster germinating grasses come up quick, and act as a nurse crop for the slower germinating seeds. Having a blend also gives you some protection in case some new pest comes along that attacks certain types of grasses.

People often ask if they have to have their lawn hydro-seeded in order for it to be nice. The answer is no. Hydro-seed is not some kind of magic formula. It is nothing more than a fancy way to apply grass seed. A hyrdo-seeder is just a machine that mixes water, grass seed, fertilizer and mulch into a slurry that is sprayed onto your lawn. The ingredients are exactly the same that you would use if you seed by hand, with the exception of the mulch.

And contrary to popular belief, hydro mulch is no better than good old fashioned straw. In my opinion straw is a much, much better mulch. The primary advantage to hydro-seed is that the grass seed is thoroughly soaked before it is applied, which assures germination. That’s a huge advantage if your seeding along a freeway where it is not practical to wet the seed after it has been applied. At your house, it really doesn’t mean much. Hand seeding works just fine.

With either method, you still have to water just as much once the seeding is done. Many people are lead to believe that hydro-seed doesn’t have to be watered as much as hand seed. This is a huge misconception. If you fail to water hydro-seed once it is applied, it will still germinate and little tiny grass plants will appear. But just a few hours without water on a hot day, and those little tiny grass plants will wither and die. This is a big problem because once the seed has germinated, it is spent. All the water in the world will not make that spent seed produce another grass plant.

Hydro seed has its benefits, but for the residential lawn it’s not all that important. Why do I claim that straw is a better mulch than hydro-mulch? Think about how the hydro-mulch is applied. It is mixed with the seed, fertilizer and water as a slurry, and sprayed on the lawn. The mulch has not been applied over top of the seed which is how mulch is supposed to be applied, it is all mixed together. Some of the seeds are under the mulch, and some of the seeds are on top of the mulch. Mulch can’t do much good when the seeds are resting up on top of it. They might as well be sun bathing!

Now think about the process of hand seeding. The seed is spread on the soil, then you should take a push broom and drag it backwards over top of the seeded area. This applies a very thin layer of soil over most of the seeds. Then you spread the straw over top of the soil. The pieces of straw are scattered in all directions, with many of them crisscrossing each other.

Remember the movie, “Honey I shrunk the Kids”? The part where they are walking through the lawn and the blades of grass are huge compared to them? This is what it’s like to be a grass seed under a mulch of straw. Those little tiny grass seeds are lost under the straw, and that's exactly what you want to protect them from the intense rays of the sun.

As the sun works its way across the sky the grass seeds actually receive filtered sunlight. Enough sun to warm the seeds so they grow, but also enough shade to protect the tender young grass plants. As the grass plants grow, they also raise the mulch with them to a degree, providing additional shade for the seeds that haven’t germinated yet. The shade that straw mulch provides also helps to retain the moisture around the seeds. Grass seeds will never get this kind of protection from hydro mulch.

Another trait of hydro-seed is that as the slurry dries, it becomes a blanket over the lawn. In the event of a heavy rainfall, running water tends to get under this blanket and carry it away, leaving big areas with no seed at all. They make a glue that you can actually add to the hydro seed mix, but my experience has shown that the glue will hold the hydro seed in place a little longer, but when it does wash out much larger areas wash because they are glued together.

With hand seeding, each seed is independent, and they fall between the nicks and crannies of the soil. In the event of heavy rain, the running water must be severe enough to wash the soil away before the seeds can be moved. I’ve installed hundreds of lawns using both techniques, for the difference in cost I’ll take the hand seeded lawn any day.

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter. Article provided by, http://gardening-articles.com.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.http://gardening-articles/.com


lawn care, gardening