You've got to Laugh!

"I do not like broccoli. And I haven't liked it since I was a little kid
and my mother made me eat it. And I'm President of the United
States and I'm not going to eat any more broccoli."
- George Bush, U.S. President, 1990

How to use Vinegar in your Garden - Keep those Cats Away!

Gardening with vinegar has many uses and benefits and best of all, it is safe to use, doesn't harm the environment, is freely available and it is cheap! It really is, therefore your organic and eco-friendly pesticide, insecticide, and herbicide.

Here you will learn about these benefits and pick up a few tips along the way. It can also be used full-strength or diluted depending on the job at hand. It can also be used quite readily in the kitchen, bathroom and other areas of the house, but today, we are going to just concentrate on the outside areas. One word of warning, however, remember that when it is all said and done, you are working with acid, so make sure you protect your eyes. So what exactly can vinegar do for you?

First of all, for those of you who are plagued by pests and little critters in the garden, fret no more. It will keep cats at bay if you spray in areas you want to deter them, particularly that sand-pit you may have in the garden for the children but those cats will insist on using as their own private toilet! Heavily spray full-strength vinegar around the edges of the sandpit and remember to re-apply after it rains.

Are those rabbits eating your vegetables, particularly your beans and peas? Soak corncobs in full strength vinegar for a couple of hours until they are thoroughly soaked. You may even soak them over-night if you wish. Then place the cobs strategically around your veggie patch. They will keep rabbits away for as long as you re-soak your corncobs every two weeks.

Do you have an ant problem? Again you can apply this full-strength to the ants and they will not come anywhere near the stuff. This is very useful if you find a trail of them making a way into your house. Just spray the thresholds and reapply every couple of days to ensure that they stay away.

Slugs are real pests, because they eat both vegetables, especially lettuces and plants, especially hostas. In this case, vinegar acts as a poison to the slugs because, if you spray slugs with it directly, they will die. You can treat snails in exactly the same way. However, because vinegar is also a herbicide, be careful where you spray your vinegar. Salvias for example will die, if they are sprayed as a casualty.

Are your fruit trees being invaded by fruit flies? Try this fruit fly bait, which is deadly and effective. Take 1 cup of water, a half a cup of cider vinegar, a quarter of a cup of sugar and 1 tablespoon of molasses. Mix it all together. Take old tin cans without their lids and make two holes in opposite ends for wire handles. Attach the handles and add an inch of the mixture to each can. Hang 2 - 3 tins in each tree. Check on the traps on a regular basis to refill and clean when necessary.

After you have been digging in the garden with your gardening tools, soak them in a bucket of half-strength vinegar. This will act as a fungicide and kill off anything that may be lurking unsuspectingly so that there is no possibility of cross-contamination when you use them next.

Are your garden plants struggling and your roses suffering from black spot or other fungal diseases? Take 2 tablespoons of white vinegar and mix it with 4 litres of compost tea. Now spray your garden plants with this mixture and see the difference. For roses, the method is slightly different. Take 3 tablespoons of cider vinegar, and mix it with 4 litres of water to control those fungal diseases. Of course, don't forget the compost tea either on your roses to get the best results. For powdery mildew take 2-3 tablespoons of cider vinegar and mix with 4 litres of water and spray your plants. This will help control the problem.

What about your acid-living plants like azaleas, gardenias and rhododendrons? Are they flowering as well as they could be? If not, increase the soil's acidity. In hard water areas, add 1 cup of vinegar to 4 litres of tap water. It will also release iron into the soil for the plants to use. And if you have too much lime in your garden, add vinegar to neutralize it.

Do you have weeds coming up in between your paving slabs on our driveway or pathway that you cannot remove by hand? Don't use a herbicide that is know to damage the environment. Use an eco-friendly alternative instead. Take 1 litre of boiled water, 2 tablespoons of salt and 5 tablespoons of vinegar. Mix altogether, and whilst still hot, pour onto the offending plants.

Did you know that you can improve your germination success rate of seeds by using vinegar? This is especially useful for those seeds that are more difficult to germinate such as asparagus and okra, morning glories and moonflowers. Rub the seeds gently first between two pieces of coarse sandpaper. Then soak the seeds overnight in 500 ml of warm water, 125 ml of vinegar and a squirt of washing-up liquid. Plant the next day as normal. You can use the same method, but without the sandpaper for nasturtiums, parsley, beetroot, and parsnips.

And finally, are your chickens pecking each other? Add a tablespoon of cider vinegar to their drinking water, and they will stop!

Written by Kathryn Bax, owner and web site developer of Country Living and Farm Lifestyles: A Worldwide Farmers' Market for Farm Food, Farm Accommodation, Game Farms, Wine Farms, Farming Jobs, Farm Swaps, Rural Services, Country Living and much, much more. Buy local and support your local farmers.

http://www.countryfarm-lifestyles.com/

October Gardening Tips!

If you want to reduce your work load next Spring, I recommend you start any new garden beds now.

As you empty annual beds this Autumn, there are two main ways to enrich the soil.

1. Spread compost or plant cover crops.

Before you spread compost, dig or lightly till in any plants that aren't diseased to return nutrients to the soil. Spread compost, even if it's not well decomposed yet. It will protect the soil over the winter and break down by spring planting time.

2. Plant cover crops, such as buckwheat or annual rye that will grow this fall and early spring until you till it under several weeks before planting.

Now on to those weeds. Make sure you remove them or next Spring I guarantee you will get some kind of backache. Since bare soil invites weeds, cover bare soil with mulch, such as layers of wet newspaper covered with straw, compost, or manure. This will control late Autumn and early Spring weed growth and provide organic matter.

Begin preparing tools for storage by cleaning them once you're finished with them. Wipe the soil off shovels, spades, and trowels using a rag or wire brush, then wipe blades with an oiled cloth.

Make sure pruners are free from dirt and plant debris, and wipe down the blades with the oiled cloth. Empty any pots of dead plants and soil, adding the debris to the compost pile unless the plants were diseased. In that case, dispose of the plants in the garbage or a location far away from your garden. Rinse pots, or better yet, soak them in a bucket of water to which some bleach has been added. Rinse well.

Plant garlic now for harvesting next summer. Purchase garlic sold specifically for planting, or buy organic garlic. Commercial, non-organic, supermarket garlic may have been treated to inhibit sprouting. Break the garlic head into individual cloves, keeping the largest ones for planting. (Use the small cloves for cooking.) Plant cloves about three inches apart with the pointy side up. Try some different varieties to see which you prefer. Mulch the bed well with straw.

Test your soil and add any needed amendments now, the soil will be ready for planting when you are in the spring. Some amendments take time to break down and become available to plants.
Lastly, give your lawn a good low cut, and cover bare areas with a layer of mulch.

Key Gardening Jobs for Autumn!

Well, the nights are drawing in here in England and there is a slight chill in the air. September is here and Autumn is upon us once more. I thought this "To Do" list
might help in jogging a few memories of things to do around the garden at this time of year.

Early Autumn

. Bring in tender plants under cover before the first frosts
. Plant or move evergreens and conifers, while the soil is still warm
. Plant spring bedding, such as wallflowers and polyanthus
. Plant spring bulbs

Mid Autumn

. Tidy perennials, removing dead stems but leaving seed-heads for birds to eat
. Plant deciduous trees, shrubs and climbers
. Lay new lawns, so long as soil is not too wet
. Batten down the hatches, ensuring nothing can blow about and cause damage on windy nights.

Late Autumn


. Plant shrubs, roses and hedging plants sold with bare roots
. Clear up fallen leaves and compost them
. Plant tulips and hyacinths
. Move deciduous trees and shrubs once they have lost their leaves
. Take hardwood cuttings from shrubs and roses

How to Keep Cats Out of Your Garden!

Do cat repellents work? How do I stop cats from using my garden as a toilet? How can I keep cats out of my garden? These are among the most frequently asked questions by gardeners everywhere.

The first line of defence should be to ensure that your garden boundaries are secure. Any gaps in your fence should be blocked to deny low level access. Cats however can jump rather well and rather high, so fix a taut wire or string some six inches above the top of your fence to deter this approach.

Once inside your garden many people say that the best cat repellent is a dog who will soon see off any feline invader. That pre-supposes that you are a dog lover. If not, then you will have to resort to more passive methods. For example, cats like to lie on freshly dug soil, so you should lay mulch on your borders so that no bare soil is left exposed. Seed beds should be covered with wire netting or twigs arranged as a barrier.

Young trees should have plastic guards fitted around their trunks to protect them against use as a scratching pole. Your garden pond should be covered with netting to keep your fish safe.

Cats are generally known to dislike water, so a well aimed bucketful or a squirt with the hose will certainly make an intruder run. After one or two dousings it may learn the lesson and stay away.

To protect plants and borders, both mothballs and citrus are said to be effective deterrents. Place the mothballs, orange peel or lemon rind in the borders. Alternatively spray cloths with orange scented air freshener and place the cloths around the plants you wish to protect. Other known cat repellents are cayenne pepper, coffee grounds, pipe tobacco, lavender oil, lemon grass oil, citronella oil, eucalyptus oil and mustard oil.

Certain herbs are said to deter cats. In particular rue but not catmint which has the opposite effect. Coleus canina is another plant which is marketed by one merchant as a cat repellent.

If you visit your local garden center or hardware store you will find several cat repellent products on sale. These range from electric water sprinklers and ultrasonic devices to sprays and granules.

Motion activated sprinklers act in the same way as a burglar alarm using an infra red detector. When the cat enters the area covered by the detector the sprinkler shoots out a jet of water to scare the animal away. It is claimed that, after one or two encounters with the jet, the cat will learn to avoid the area.

Ultrasonic devices emit a high frequency sound which is annoying to cats (and dogs) but is not audible to humans. There are various different models some of which operate continuously and others which have an infra red detector and only emit a pulse of sound when the cat triggers the device. To be successful you need to ensure that the model is powerful enough to cover the area you wish to protect. In addition make sure that the sound frequency is designed for larger animals since some models are intended to deter insects and so would be no use for cats.

There are also commercial scent cat repellents. Those that use chemicals should be kept away from any food crops but the essential oil based granule varieties act in the same way as orange and lemon peel mentioned above. Another way to keep a cat out if the garden is a repellent evaporator which consists of a container holding puffed rice which has been impregnated with essential oils. These are effective for three to four weeks and can then be refilled for a further period. Another natural product which many people claim really keeps a cat out of the garden is lion's dung. You may need to visit your local zoo to obtain this although some stores do stock zoo poo.

In Ontario, Canada the local township provides a cat trap service. Once the animal enters the cage it cannot escape but is completely unharmed. The owner has to pay to recover his pet and so should be encouraged not to let the cat stray in future. Apparently few owners bother to reclaim their cats but just obtain another kitten. However this sounds like a good way of dealing with a cat that cannot be deterred by any other method. If there is no such scheme in your area, just buy your own trap.

So, to recap, the first priority is to secure your boundary fences. Then you have the whole selection of suggested cat repellents ranging from homemade recipes to expensive commercial gadgets. I would suggest that you try the orange peel and prickly twigs for a start. If you are around when the intruder appears, try the bucket of water or hose. Even if you miss, the shock may be a sufficient deterrent. If these do not do the trick, then you may have to consider the commercial alternatives.

With thanks for this Article by Hugh Harris-Evans at http://members.ezinearticles.com/index.php

Bald Patches On Your Lawn!

I am indebted to Helen Stephens for the following wonderful Article on dealing with bald patches on your Lawn which was published at http://www.doityourself.com

We all have seen them glaring out at us from amongst the tender new grass, and unfortunately for most home owners, we have at some point personally experienced them - the dreaded bald patch in the yard. They are hideous with their sickly yellow color and mostly dead appearance. No matter how beautiful the rest of our lawn is, those bald spots always stick out, waving their proverbial fingers in our face.

Sometimes it feels like they will never go away, and sometimes it feels like they move from location to location, like a living amoeba of death, consuming spot after spot. Their appearance always begs the question, how can they be destroyed? Before attacking these ugly spots with an arsenal of lawn care products, it is important to determine the origin of the problem, because each source may require a slightly different approach to care.

Patches in the grass have many causes that must be dealt with in order to find the right cure. There are many reasons for those ugly spots, such as bug infestations, seasonal dryness, mowing damage, pet waste, grass diseases, and killer weeds. We will examine each one and determine the best way to battle their attacks.

Bug Infestations

There are many munching culprits that attack either the fresh green growth on the surface of the grass or the tender roots below ground. The worst offenders are caterpillars (like cutworms, army worms, and sod webworms), billbugs, white grubs, fiery skippers, and ataenius. These pests have voracious appetites, so it is important to identify them as soon as the damage is detected. Look for small, irregular spots that grow in size each day, as well as visible evidence of munching within the affected area and surrounding blades of healthy grass.

If no pests are immediately detected, mix 1-2 ounces of dish detergent with a gallon of water and apply it evenly to the damaged area. Surface eaters like caterpillars and fiery skippers will surface to avoid contact with the solution. Since grubs live below the surface, it may be necessary to remove the top layer of damaged sod to look for their little white forms. Once the pests have been detected, you are ready to attack them.

If caterpillars are the problem, begin by thinning or removing the thatch (dead grass). Next, irrigate and fertilize the area, making sure to avoid creating soggy patches. Aerate the damaged section and surrounding lawn. Finally, overseed the damaged spot and surrounding area to encourage dense, new growth.

If billbugs are the issue, irrigate and fertilize the affected spot and increase the mowing level. For white grubs, overseed the lawn to allow for dense growth. Make sure to irrigate and fertilize well. If fiery skippers are found, reduce the thatch and look for a variety of grass that is less appetizing to them. They are more specialized in their eating preferences and can easily be foiled by changing their available menu.

For ataenius, aerate the ground to increase the root growth and raise the level of your mower for a higher cut. Finally, keep in mind that with any biological pest, there are always beneficial predators that can be introduced to help reduce the use of chemicals. Attracting birds to the area is always a plus for controlling and eliminating caterpillars and grubs, as well as the introduction of beneficial nematodes, which feed on all soft bodied insects. Avoid using broad-spectrum pesticides, because they kill the good bugs along with the bad, typically offering a greater advantage to the bad bugs in the end.

Seasonal Dryness

There are two main types of dryness that can affect your turf - Winter dryness, which is caused by an overly dry winter with little rain or snow and Summer dryness, which occurs when temperatures are high and rain levels are low in an area for an extended period of time. Either case of dryness can seriously stress your lawn, causing 'hot spots' of burned, yellow turf.

The best resolution is a two-fold approach. Begin with an application of fertilizer during the spring and summer months. This will ensure healthy, thick growth from the beginning of the growing seasons. Raise the deck of your mower. The higher cut will allow the lawn to better retain the moisture levels in the soil. Supplemental watering during dry periods may be necessary to help ensure consistent moisture.

Mowing Damage

Sometimes in our exuberant efforts to control the level of growth in our yards, we inadvertently damage the grass and create brown patches and bald spots. Infrequent mowing, dull blades, and mowing decks set too low can all produce damage in a lawn.

Make sure at the beginning of the mowing season that mower blades are thoroughly sharpened and kept that way throughout the summer. Inspect blades each time you mow to ensure that they are sharp enough to use. Dull blades rip the grass, forcing the grass to expend extra energy and nutrients to fix the torn sections, ultimately weakening the grass. Mow more frequently. This prevents the chlorophyll producing parts of the grass from being completely removed. Also, raise the level of the deck so that only the top third of the grass is being cut. Combining this last step with more frequent mowing will ensure thicker, more lush green growth overall.

Pet Waste

Regardless of whether the "presents" are left by your neighbor's pet or your own, pet urine and faeces can create unsightly spots in an otherwise healthy, green lawn. According to several studies on pet waste, the problem occurs because of the level of nitrogen in the waste itself. Pet waste has a high level of concentrated nitrogen, and when it is applied to the lawn, it creates the same effect that over-fertilization does - it burns the grass.

Urine is more potent because it is in liquid form. It takes time for faeces to break down so its effects are not as dramatic. All in all, however, pet waste can be a problem.

Unless you want to walk through life pet-less, a varied approach to pet waste should be taken. The first step is to eliminate the issue of other people’s pets using your yard as their public restroom. Begin by putting up a structural or living fence to prevent marauding animals from "going" on your lawn.

With community pets out of the way, you can now address the damage created by your own precious pet. Begin by daily picking up the solid waste in your yard and composting it. For communities that do not have public pet waste composting facilities, there are personal pet composters now on the market. The resulting compost can safely be used anywhere in the garden.

For urine spots, begin by flushing the area with water. Damage is reduced considerably if the area is flushed within 8 hours of urination. Flushing dilutes the nitrogen levels and reduces the damage caused by the urine. Try rotating the acceptable pee locations, allowing the prior pee spot to recover from the previous day's use. If your yard is small, consider creating a "potty zone" by removing the sod entirely and laying down pea gravel.

Make sure to rinse the gravel daily to reduce both smell and urine buildup. When damage does occur, remove the damaged thatch and heavily reseed the area, making sure to water daily to maximize seed germination and growth. Spots often recover quickly if given the chance.

Grass Diseases

There are many diseases that can attack a lawn, causing symptoms like leaf spots, powdery white residue, thin grass growth, dead spots, and severe discoloration. Such symptoms can be caused by powdery mildew, fungal infections, rust and leaf blight, just to name a few.

If a grass disease is indeed the source of your problem, it is important to act quickly to contain and treat the offending disease. There are many fungicides on the market both for specialized and generalized treatment, but before spending money on products that promise the world, seek the help of a professional. Most local farmers’ and gardeners’ co-ops can help not only in the identification of your disease but also in recommending an effective treatment. It is their business to know these things, and seeking their advise early in the season can be a real lawn saver.

Killer Weeds

There are many types of weeds that can encroach on a yard and steal much needed nutrients from your lawn. Their goal is to choke out the grass by killing it at the roots. Crabgrass, clover, dandelions and ryegrass are just a few of the many types of weeds that will attempt to take over your lawn and garden.

Weeds are relentless, so a combined approach of prevention and maintenance will help remove weeds from your lawn. Although no product will ever completely eliminate every weed from your yard, an application of weed preventative in the spring can greatly reduce the appearance of weeds by reducing the germination rate of the previous year’s weed seed.

Frequent mowing will prevent the formation of new flowers and seed heads, cutting down on the spread of existing plants. Weekly fertilization of your lawn will be the final death blow to any weed invasion. First of all, dense, vigorous grass growth will not only resist the spread of encroaching weeds, it will help choke out existing weeds where they are already established. Finally, fertilizing your lawn will cause the existing weed foliage to explode with growth. This vigorous green weed growth will quickly outgrow the roots of the weed, eventually weakening the plant, until it dies.

For many of us, our lawn is our life. We play on it, we entertain our friends on it, and we enjoy the company of our family on it. With a little effort and a lot of love, we can ensure that the grass is always greener on our side of the fence.

Clover!

So your Lawn is full of the dreaded Clover. Well did you know that until fairly recently, clover was not considered as a weed at all and indeed was liked by gardeners because it gave their Lawn a deeper green look.

This happens because Clover removes Nitrogen from the air and transfers it to your Lawn. In fact, some garden suppliers include Clover in their proprietory lawn mixes even today! It helps the grass grow more pest resistant, reduces the amount of fertilizer required, (so is good for the environment) and leaves the Lawn much healthier.

As a kid you probably went clover searching - looking for that one magical four-leaf charm. Seeing clover's shamrocks and little white or pink flowers in your lawn nowadays probably doesn't make you feel lucky anymore. Like many a perennial weed, clover can be hard to evict from your lawn.

As a result, it's one of the most common weeds around. Even though it's green and its flowers are, admit it, sort of cute, it attracts bees, which can be an underfoot danger, and is also quite slippery when wet, another danger.

So your probably asking what's the best method of Killing Clover In The Lawn?

The most effective method of controlling clover is to maintain a dense and healthy turf area. Often weeds can be easily kept out if the Ph and nutrients levels are optimum. Then a cornmeal application can be use to control the weeds. Use 10 pounds per 1,000 sq ft every 120 days simply as a fertilizer as well.

Mowing height and the frequency of mowing also will deter these weeds.
Clover does especially well in moist conditions and in less than optimally fertile soil. The one nutrient it really goes for is phosphorous.

So if you cut back on the water and up the level of the nutrients, other than phosphorous, that your lawn needs to thrive, your lawn will do better and weeds like clover will do worse. The best defense against any weed, clover included, is a healthy lawn.

Pulling weeds by hand also works in small lawns. Clover has a taproot you can easily dig out by hand. For spot control a little spade action is hard to beat.

In the last resort, chemical action is sometimes necessary, especially when managing large areas. Always read and follow directions on the label and keep pets and children away! Post-emergent herbicides do a great job on clover. A weed-and-feed that lists clover as among its targets will help tackle any serious clover encroachments.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Bumps and Hollows in Your Lawn!

O.K. so you wake up one fine morning and discover - horror of horrors - that there are large bumps and hollows in your lawn. Or, perhaps you have just moved house and need to deal with a new garden.
Well first off, don't panic! Second off, forget your garden roller as a remedy! Using a garden roller simply enhances the bumps and hollows and compacts everything into a hard mass.

If you have "large hollows" in your Lawn, the only way to get rid of them is to strip off the turf and take out some soil before replacing the turf in its original position.

However, often times, it is simply an uneven lawn that is the problem. If this is the case then the easy answer is to bring the hollows up to the level of the bumps, thus creating a flat surface.

To define this in a more clear manner, if the hollows are about 2" deep then the lawn can be treated easily by filling the hollows up.

First thing to do is find a straight edge, perhaps a plank will do. Place the plank over the hollow to be treated and use it to spread a top dressing mix into the lawn to a rough level by "screeding" the edge back and forward.

Once the surface is level, then compact the soil by treading in with your heels. The final result should be only sufficiently firm as to not leave any fooprint.

Then rake the soil to its final level with as wide a rake as you can find.

Finally, spread a mix of grass seed over the treated area at about 1 good handful for each square yard, making sure of a wide, even spread across the area.
Rake this in lightly.

I suggest you protect your lawn against the ravages of birds, possibly with some form of net protection. Water the area and await results for about 2 weeks. By then the grass should have started to grow and you will have a lawn that is level and flat.

Lawn Mowers - The right way to mow your lawn!

lawn care

Lawn Mowers

The way you mow your lawn could mean the difference between a healthy lawn and a very healthy lawn. Most people are not thrilled when they have to mow the lawn or weed it. But these are important lawn maintenance tasks that have to be done.

The first step to mowing the lawn is to buy the right lawn mower. There are many different kinds of Lawn Mowers on the market today.

Push mower -These are probably the oldest lawn mowers in existence, but they are very effective for smaller lawns. You will get no special perks from this mower. With some updated mower, you may be able to change the blade height, but that’s about it.

All you have to do is manually push the mower over the lawn and it will cut the grass. It is important to make sure the grass is dry or it will get caught in the blade and you will have to remove it.

The clippings will fall on the lawn.

You can grab a bag and rake them up, or you can let them decompose and feed your lawn. It’s your choice.

Electric mower - An electric mower is a little easier to use because it is powers by electricity. This means that you will be able to cut your lawn faster than with a push mower. Older electric mowers have a power cord that you will have to plug in order to use. These mowers can be dangerous if you do not remember to look after the cord.

As with the push mower, you will have to clean up the clippings or leave them on your lawn.

Electric cordless mower - These mowers do not have cords which make them much easier to use and do not require you to find an outlet on both sides of the house. Electric cordless mowers also come with a bag that will store lawn clippings. When the bag is full, you will have to empty it. These mowers run on a battery that can be charged easily when not in use.

These mowers can also be used without the bag if you would rather let the lawn clippings fertilize your lawn.

Ride-on mower - For larger lawns, a ride-on mower will help you not run out of energy to complete other tasks around the yard once the mowing is complete.

These mowers have bags that will catch lawn clippings.

Mulching mower - If you want to use your lawn clippings, but do not like the site of them, you should look into investing in a mulching mower. These mowers will ground up lawn clippings so they are not as visible as regular clippings.

How to Mow

Regardless of which lawn mower you purchase, you should learn how to mow the lawn correctly so that you do not do unnecessary damage. You should consider following these tips:

You should mow your lawn when the grass is dry and is about three inches in length. If you mow any sooner, you may end up killing the grass. You will then have to reseed and start all over again. If you don’t want to walk outside each weekend and measure your lawn, you should mow about twice a month or every other weekend during the summertime.

Each time you mow your lawn, you should begin in a different direction. If you mow in the same direction each time, you will end up creating ruts in your lawn. These ruts could destroy your lawn and also make it look run down and unkempt.

Even if you do not want lawn clippings, and have not purchased a mulching mower, maybe you could compromise and only pick up lawn clippings once a month instead of twice. Full of nutrients, lawn clippings will make your lawn healthier.

Mowing the lawn is not difficult, but it should be done correctly so that you can get the most from your lawn during the spring and summer months. The nutrients you feed your lawn during this time will keep your lawn healthy for the entire year. While mowing too much can be a problem, so can not mowing enough. Long grass can cause shorter pieces to not get enough sunlight.

Mow your lawn consistently and you will enjoy a lush lawn all season long. Fertilize it with fertilizers, mulch, compost, and lawn clippings to keep that green alive all year long.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn

lawn care

Feeding Garden Birds!

Lawn, garden, birds, feeding

I keep returning to my favourite theme about "whole gardens." In other words a garden should be bigger and better than the sum total of its individual parts! We tend to concentrate in this Blog on matters dealing with Lawn Care but a lawn without flowers or birds or insects is like a 1 Course meal. There are so many facets that make up the complete picture and we forget this at our peril. So instead of Lawns, today I want to look at garden birds. I came across this practical Article on feeding birds at website
http://www.yptenc.org.uk/docs/factsheets/env_facts/feed_birds.html
which I recommend to you all!

When to Feed Birds

Birds appreciate being fed throughout the year, but winter is their most difficult time, when they find it hard to find their natural food, such as insects, worms, berries and seeds. Luckily, most birds take readily to a variety of food items that we can easily provide and this helps them to survive the cold winter months.

Seed-eaters, such as chaffinches and greenfinches enjoy being offered a supply of seeds all through the year. Birds, whether they are insect or seed eaters when adult, feed their babies on insects and other minibeasts; it is not a good idea to put out loose whole peanuts in the spring and summer - a whole peanut fed to a baby bird by a misguided parent may choke it! However, most other types of food can be quite safely offered throughout the year.

As well as helping the birds, feeding them enables us to watch them close-up, observe their behaviour and even photograph them quite easily!

Suitable Food for Garden Birds

Almost any kitchen leftovers can be used. Here are the most useful types of food:-

Bread:

Wholemeal bread is best, but any bread can be put out as long as it is crumbled up and moist. Soak very dry bread before offering it to the birds.

Cooked rice, pasta, pastry & potatoes:
these have lots of starch and are appreciated by a variety of birds.

Stale cake & biscuits:
in addition to starch, these contain fat which is an excellent source of energy.

Cheese:
wrens and robins love crumbled or grated cheese.

Fat:
bacon rind, fat trimmed from chops and suet may be cut up into small bits or it can be hung up in a lump.

Fruit:
windfalls or bruisedapples and pears are loved by blackbirds and thrushes. Winter visitors such as redwings and fieldfares, from Scandinavia, may be attracted too. Dried fruits e.g. raisins and sultanas, are appreciated too but always soak these first.

Peanuts:
these are rich in fat and attract a host of birds, including the titfamily, greenfinches, house sparrows, nuthatches, siskins and great spotted woodpeckers. Shelled peanuts may be put in wire mesh containers and hung up. Crushed or chopped nuts may be put out for robins and dunnocks (hedge sparrows). A chain of peanuts in their shells can be made by threading them onto string with a darning needle. Never use salted nuts - these cause the birds to dehydrate.

Fresh Coconut:
this is a favourite with tits. First drain off the milk from a whole coconut by drilling two holes in one end, then saw it in half and hang outside. Never give dessicated (dried) coconut to birds as this swells up inside a bird's stomach.

Bird Seed:
most pet shops and garden centres sell specially prepared seed mixes for wild birds. Greenfinches and chaffinches prefer sunflower seeds, whereas dunnocks and other finches prefer smaller seeds, such as canary seed and millet.

REMEMBER........do not feed the following to your garden birds:- salted nuts, dessicated coconut, highly-spiced food - and not too much white bread or very dry bread.

Where to put the food

Bird Table: a bird table is a convenient place to put out food. It doesn't have to be an elaborate structure - just a 40cm square of exterior grade plywood, preferably with a ridge around the edges, screwed onto a 1.7m post (sunk about 40cm into the ground) is sufficient. It is important to place the table in the right spot. You will want to watch and study the birds, so it needs to be not too far from the house, perhaps, for example, a few feet from the kitchen window.

Cats can be a real nuisance, so bushes and trees should be more than a leap away from the table - a minimum of 2 metres. An inverted metal cone or biscuit tin around the post of a birdtable will make it difficult for cats to climb up (it may also stop squirrels climbing up too!). Instead of being fixed to a post, a table could also be fixed to a wall or a window-sill.

OTHER PLACES; some garden birds are reluctant to feed several feet above the ground. Dunnocks and wrens, for example, prefer to scratch around on the ground, so scatter food for them on the open ground around the bird table. Nuts, fat and coconuts can be hung either from the table or from branches of trees.


Remember:

(i) once you begin putting out food, birds will be attracted from quite a wide area and they will come to rely on you; if you suddenly stop feeding, some of these birds may die, unable to find enough food to survive.

(ii) put food out at regular times - first thing in the morning is probably the best time so that there is a supply of food ready for the hungry birds emerging from a cold night.

(iii) don't overfeed and leave uneaten food lying around during the night. Accumalation of stale food can cause health problems for the birds and attract rats and mice.

Water

Birds need water to drink and bathe in. They must be able to keep their feathers clean in order to keep warm in severe weather. A shallow-edged pond is an ideal watering place for birds, but an upturned dustbin lid or flowerpot base will do just as well. Sink the container into the ground or raise it up on bricks to stop it wobbling about. Keep the water clean and fresh to avoid disease. In very cold weather, keep the bath clear of ice. If the bath is made of metal or stone, a night-light underneath stops ice forming. Do not put antifreeze or salt in the water!

Recipe for Bird Cake

First make a mould from something suitable. A half-coconut shell with string or wire threaded through a small hole in the base makes a good one. Alternatively, an old yoghurt pot can be used (see below).

Ingredients:

500g fat (suet is best)
500g mixed bird seed (not too many large seeds)
750g (up to this but no more) scraps e.g. cake & biscuit crumbs, grated cheese, minced peanuts, sultanas, brown bread etc.


Method:

1. Carefully melt the fat in a large saucepan - don't make it too hot.

2. Stir all the rest of the ingredients into the fat.

3. Pour the mixture into the mould and leave to cool and set. If using a yoghurt pot, push a length of wire into the mixture while it is still soft.

4. When the cake is set, hang the coconut mould upside down in the garden. Cake made in a yoghurt pot can be carefully scooped out using a knife, and hung up by the wire.

Gardening for Birds

Apart from putting out special food for birds, there are several other ways in which we can attract even more bird species to our gardens. Here are a few ideas:-

Grow shrubs which have berries and fruit e.g. elder, hawthorn, cotoneaster, pyracantha, honeysuckle, ivy and mahonia. These plants may also provide nesting sites.

Birds prefer untidy gardeners. Leave dead heads on plants so that the birds can pick out the seeds. Don't clear up all the autumn leaves - leave some leaf litter around so that birds can scratch around in it for minibeasts.

Don't use pesticides. Leave the aphids on the roses for the blue tits to enjoy - don't spray them with chemicals. Pellets used for killing slugs and snails can be dangerous to birds and other wildlife; if a thrush eats a poisoned slug, it may itself be affected by the poison. If you have thrushes around, they will help to control the slug and snail population in your garden, so there should be no need to resort to chemicals.

Useful Reference Books:

The Bird Table Book:
Tony Soper (David & Charles)

How to Make a Wildlife Garden:
Chris Baines (Elm Tree Books)

The RSPB Birdfeeder Handbook:
Robert Burton (Dorling Kindersley)

The Garden Bird Book:
Macmillan in association with the British Trust for Ornithology.


Information supplied by the Young Peoples Trust for the Environment

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source:http://www.yptenc.org.uk/docs/factsheets/env_facts/feed_birds.html

Lawn, garden. birds, feeding

Lawn care

Reverting to the issue of developing a Lawn from scratch, here is the rest of the Article from our friends at http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm

"There are 2 basic types of lawn grasses - your cool-season and warm-season types. Cool-season grasses are hardy, examples include Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue. These grow best in northern, cold-winter climates. As their name suggests, they grow most vigorously in the cool months of the spring and fall seasons. Although they grow slowly in summer, they will stay green through the heat if they're well watered. If you have a cool-season lawn, you need to fertilize it twice: once in late fall, about two weeks before the first frost; and again in late winter to early spring. But go ahead and follow the other steps listed below in early spring when days are still cool. Water this grass about an inch a week, spring through fall.

Warm-season grasses include Bermuda grass and zoysia grass. These grow best in the mild-winter, warm-summer areas of the southern and southwestern United States. These grasses love the summer heat, and tend to go dormant and turn brown in winter. They die in areas where winters are too cold. Begin caring for a warm-season lawn later in the spring, when temperatures are regularly in the mid-80s. Fertilize such grasses in early to mid-spring and again four to six weeks later; do not fertilize in the fall. Water about an inch a week in spring and summer.
Nine Easy Steps to a Better Lawn

Warm-season or cool, all lawns need proper care. Here's how to give your grass a great start.

. Fertilize your lawn. Use a complete lawn fertilizer and apply it, following the recommendations printed on the label. Your lawn will be denser, greener, have fewer weeds and will resist insects and diseases.

. Adjust your soil pH. If your soil is very acidic (likely, if you have abundant summer rainfall), apply powdered limestone to adjust the pH. Talk to the folks at your local nursery or someone at your local cooperative extension office for local advice. These people can help you test your soil pH and tell you the recommended amounts of lime to apply.

. Control weeds. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide, a weed killer that also prevents weeds from reappearing later in the growing season. These herbicides are generally sold in granular form. Do this before weed seeds germinate. To kill broadleaf weeds that appear later, apply a "weed-and-feed" product. Again, timing varies with local conditions, so consult your local nursery for advice. Follow all label instructions carefully.

. Know when to mow. Mow your lawn only when the grass has grown 30 to 50 percent higher than the recommended mowing height. For most cool-season grasses, the recommended height is 3 to 4 inches, so you'd cut when it's 4 to 6 inches high. For most warm-season grasses, the recommended height is 2 to 3 inches, so you'll mow when it's 3 to 4 1/2 inches high. Mow all season, whenever the grass is 30 to 50 percent taller than the recommended height. If you don't let the grass grow too long between mowings, you can leave the clippings on the lawn rather than rake them up. The cut grasses will break down quickly and contribute organic matter and nitrogen to the soil.

. Aerate your lawn. Aerators remove small plugs of grass and soil from the lawn, admitting air to the soil, breaking up mats of dead grass and debris that can accumulate at root level, and invigorating root growth. Aerating also helps water and nutrients penetrate the lawn. You can rent a power aerator at local rental company or hire a lawn-care company to power-aerate for you. The best power aerators work by driving little hollow pistons into the ground that remove tiny cores of soil. For small areas, aerate manually with a sod-coring tool, a special tool that resembles a garden fork.

. Reseed your lawn if necessary. If your cool-season lawn is thin or spotty in places, reseed it. First, roughly rake the area with a steel rake with short, hard tines. Then spread fresh grass seed, following the recommended coverage rates on the seed package. Lightly cover the new seeds with mulch or other >organic matter, and then keep the area moist until the seeds germinate.

. De-thatch your lawn. Thatch is a thick, spongy layer of organic matter and debris that builds up between the grass blades and roots. By keeping water and nutrients from reaching the roots, thatch causes your lawn to grow poorly. Aerating will help to reduce thatch, and you can de-thatch small areas by raking vigorously with a steel rake. But to de-thatch large areas, it's best to rent a power rake or hire a lawn company to do the work for you.

. Check your irrigation system. Each spring, check your irrigation system to make sure it's running properly. Repair clogged and broken sprinkler heads, then adjust your sprinklers so that water falls on the lawn instead of on sidewalks, driveways or patios.

. Water. Most lawns don't need much water early in the season, but if the season has been dry, water deeply. You can tell your lawn is drying when the grass begins to lose color, becoming gray-green or brown. Also, you'll notice that blades don't spring back when you walk across the lawn. Water long enough to wet the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. To measure, push a metal rod into the soil. It will penetrate more easily through moist soil than dry soil, and you can feel the point where the dry soil begins.

Follow these key steps and watch a rich, green carpet of lawn develop, from spring right on through fall."
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm

Lawn care

Rose Color Meanings:

lawn care, roses, organic, gardening

Hi guys, I make no apologies for returning to the subject of my favourite flower - the Rose. There is, in my opinion, no flower in the Universe to touch it. This week in the U.K. we have had the Chelsea Flower Show and to say the least the whole Show has been awesome! Throughout the Show, a variety of designs and new plants have been on display, but throughout, my favourite flower has shone as the premier flower in the World - and everyone's favourite!

Funnily enough, I came across this Article which will appeal to Adults everywhere on the subject of Roses. The Article is by David Beaulieu, writing at http://landscaping.about.com/cs/rosebushes/a/rose_colors.htm
and is very unusual. I recommend it to you!

"Meanings of Roses Based on Colors -- Red Valentine Roses for Lovers
When giving cut roses as Valentine gifts, we adhere to a time-honored formula that takes into account rose color meanings. The formula matches a rose's color to its intended meaning as a gift. Valentine's Day is primarily a lovers' holiday, and red roses are traditionally for lovers. "Valentine roses" and "red roses" go hand in hand, even though other colors have their place on the holiday. Our close family members may also be treated to red roses for Valentine's Day, but we avoid giving roses of this color to friends on Valentine's Day -- that would simply convey the wrong meaning. The following are the meanings traditionally attached to the most popular roses, according to colors; use this list as a guide when selecting Valentine roses:

Red roses mean romantic love; they're the "Valentine roses," par excellence.

Purple, coral and orange challenge red as the color for Valentine roses. The rose color meanings for these 3 are as follows:
The specific purpose of purple roses is to signify that the giver has fallen in love with the recipient at first sight.
Meanwhile, coral and orange roses signal desire.

The meaning of yellow roses is joy and friendship.

We express our gratitude and appreciation with pink roses....

While feelings of admiration and sympathy find words with roses that are light pink in color.

Peach is more ambiguous, as it can signify either sympathy or gratitude.

Their purity naturally enough lends to white roses the meaning of reverence and humility.

What about black roses? Do they exist and, if so, what is the meaning? While no jet-black rose exists, there are some of such a deep red as to suggest black. E.g., Rosa 'Black Magic.' Alternatively, some florists dry fresh roses and dye them black. And the meaning? There is some disagreement on this point. Many say black represents death and can thus be used as a symbol to express vengeance towards a foe. But others interpret that more liberally, suggesting as a meaning for black roses the death of old habits, thus signalling rebirth.

Unless you're a "Goth" or are trying to be funny, I'd stay away from sending black roses: the interpretation is too iffy. But the formula listed above will work for the other colors. Just follow the formula that matches the colors with the corresponding meanings, and you can't go wrong as a gift-giver. But is growing rose bushes in the yard also that simple? Yes, it is. Nor is there any great mystery surrounding it (although pruning roses can be tricky for the beginner, the subject of Page 2). The formula for growing rose bushes is a well-known one, since it is a formula that the average landscape plant lives (or dies) by:

sun + water + drainage + rich soil = rose success

I use the terminology "rose bushes" to refer generally to all roses, regardless of form, which can range from miniature shrubs to sprawling climbers. Once you're committed to following the formula for growing rose bushes, for maximum success you'll simply have to tweak the formula a bit and add some extras. For instance:

While roses like six hours of sun per day, it does matter what part of the day those six hours come from. Six hours of morning sun is preferable to six hours of afternoon sun, for two reasons:
Rose bush foliage prefers to be dry. The quicker the dampness from the night is burned off the foliage, the less likely disease is to become a factor.
The afternoon sun is often excessively hot. Roses profit from some afternoon shade.

To keep insect pests off your rose bushes, try companion planting with garlic. And once per week, while watering your rose bushes, mix some dishwashing soap into the water and apply this "insecticidal soap" to your bushes (of course, there are also true insecticidal soaps that you can buy).

As always, soil pH is a consideration. Roses prefer a pH ranging from 6.5 to 6.8.

For fertilizing roses, a monthly feeding of rose food is recommended.

Care for Rose Bushes on the Landscape: Overwintering, Watering:

In cold climates roses can be mulched, but if you really want to make sure your bushes are protected, practice a winterizing method called the "Minnesota Tip."

Roses need a lot of water (how much "a lot" is will depend, of course, on many factors). As in the case of sunlight hours (see above), not all rose-watering methods are created equal. On the average, it is best to water rose bushes twice a week -- and to water them thoroughly. It would be better to water twice per week deeply than to apply four shallower, less thorough waterings over the same time period.

These are some of the basics of rose bush care. Not too difficult, right? In fact, since there's a logical reason behind all these tips, they're probably easier to remember than the rose color meanings, which would seem to be rather arbitrary. On Page 2 we'll look at pruning techniques, as well as selecting a rose bush and getting it into the ground properly in the first place......"

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://landscaping.about.com/cs/rosebushes/a/rose_colors.htm


lawn care,roses, organic, gardening

Lawn Care

Lawn care

Back to Lawns today. Being a lazy kind of adult, I thought about the process of easily developing a Lawn from scratch and the things to consider such as shape, design etc. While I was toying with the idea of putting together an Article on this subject, I came across this excellent short Series of Articles on this very subject at http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm

"Lawns often suffer from being the last thing any gardener thinks of. We tend to lay out the garden beds, plant our perennials, sort out the large garden structures, the little garden ornaments and well...the lawn kind of just sits there like an afterthought really. And yet, a good looking lush lawn is something that's like the icing on the cake for most gardens. Aside from paving, lawn areas make up most of the open space in a garden and acts as a great contrast to the expanses of garden beds, buildings and paths.

As a general rule, most landscape designers would say that the ratio of open spaces to other structures like builidings, garden beds etc should be around 3 to 1. The greater the area that is covered by lawn, the more 'spacious' it looks - however, whilst that may be fine for a football field, that may not be the look you want. Most gardens require areas of 'privacy' or 'seclusion' so vast expanses of lawn are usually not the best option.


Lawn - should you have it?

Ask yourself really hard questions before deciding on a big expanse of lawn. Lawns require mowing and if you are after a low maintenance garden, then lawns are not for you. Did you know that the front lawn of an average house has the equivalent cooling effect of 2 average sized air conditioners? That's a bit of trivia for you!

The benefits of having a lawn (aside from the cooling effects) are :

an open area for play - great for kids who like their ball games and have a knack of falling over often.
lawn is great at binding soil together and is great at preventing soil erosion. Having said that, lawn is not a great idea if you have a steep sloped area because mowing lawn that is on a hill is backbreaking work.

How to pick a lawn shape.

When planning a lawn shape, these are things you need to take into consideration:

Picking a long narrow stretch of lawn does act to draw the eye to the end point - and it could do that to great effect if there is a focal point that you want to draw the attention of the person to eg a statue.

I mentioned before about sloping lawns, well, if the gradient of the slope is any steeper than 1 in 80, you are going to find maintaining that section of lawn hard going.
Using a garden hose to mark out the lawn shape is a tried and tested means of making nice even curves.
Avoid having paths that end up at a lawn - that's because inevitably that section where the lawn meets the path is the one that is nigh impossible to keep growing as the constant trampling at one point wears it out.
When you are planning your lawn, take into account what kind of landscape and garden edging you are planning to have. Having edging that is flush with the lawn means that you can often run the mower over the edge and save you from having to do any lawn trimming.
Try to avoid having lawn flush up against any building or fence line - that would require trimming and means more work."

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.flowerpotheaven.com/lawn-care.htm


lawn care,

Attracting Butterflies to the Garden

lawn care, butterflies, organic, gardening

While we are on the subject of the whole garden, not just the Lawn alone, I thought about what I like to see in gardens that make them special. Obviously we looked at Birds, yesterday. But what about that most delightful visitor "The Butterfly?" There is nothing better than to relax on a warm Summer day with a drink in hand, looking over your garden - the product of your sweat and tears all the year round - and watch the many coloured Butterflies flitting about your Flower beds. Ah! Heavenly Bliss.

So how do we go about attracting these welcome visitors? Here is an Article by
P.A. Opler and W.S. Cranshaw from Colorado State University at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05504.html
which reveals all!

"Quick Facts...
Many kinds of butterflies can be found in Colorado. Encourage butterflies by planning a butterfly garden.
Butterflies seek out areas with food plants for the caterpillar stage. Adult butterflies also feed on fluids such as nectar from flowers.
Butterfly visits increase when environmental needs are met.
Gardening practices to attract and retain butterflies often differ from regular gardening practices.
Dozens of butterfly species commonly occur along the Front Range and eastern Colorado and are a welcome garden addition for many people. Butterflies often appear to be just passing through, occasionally stopping for a drink of nectar. You can prolong the stay of these colorful insects and draw in others by providing the food and shelter they need.

Planning the Butterfly Garden
Make a yard more attractive to butterflies by providing the proper environment. Most important are food plants used by the immature stages (various caterpillars), food sources used by the adult butterflies, and physical environment.

Most butterflies prefer some shelter from the high winds common along the Front Range. At the same time, they like open, sunny areas. Windbreak plantings or other means of sheltering the butterfly garden can help provide a suitable physical environment.

Certain kinds of butterflies (mostly males) often can be seen on moist sand or mud collecting around puddles of water where they feed. The function of these "mud-puddle clubs" is not fully understood, but it is thought that the water contains dissolved minerals needed by the insects. Maintaining a damp, slightly salty area in the yard may attract groups of these butterflies.

Adult female butterflies spend time searching for food plants required by the immature caterpillar stage. Most butterflies have specific host plants on which they develop. For example, caterpillars of the monarch butterfly develop only on milkweed, while the black swallowtail feeds only on parsley, dill and closely related plants. When females find the proper host plant, they may lay eggs on it.

Providing the necessary food plants for the developing caterpillars also allows production of a "native" population that can be observed in all stages of development. Most species, however, fly away as adult butterflies.

Food for adult butterflies usually consists of sweet liquids, such as nectar from flowers, that provide energy. Some flowers contain more nectar, and are more attractive to butterflies. Often, specific types of flowers and flower colors also are more attractive. Some species feed on honeydew (produced by aphids), plant sap, rotting fruit and even bird dung.

When planning a garden, create a large patch of a flower species to attract and retain butterflies. Consider flowers that bloom in sequence. This is particularly important during summer when flower visiting by butterflies is most frequent. Flowers and flowering shrubs that might be good choices for an eastern Colorado butterfly garden are included in Table 1.


Table 1: Some nectar-bearing plants commonly visited by butterflies.
Asters (Aster spp.)
Bee balm (Monarda)
Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii)
Butterfly plant (Asclepias tuberosa)
Bush cinquefolia (Potentilla fruticosa)
Cosmos (Cosmos spp.)
Gaillardia (Gaillardia spp.)
Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) Marigold (Tagetes spp.)
Ornamental thistles
Rabbitbrush (Chrysothamnus nauseosus)
Sunflower (Helianthus spp.)
Sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus)
Verbena (Verbena spp.)
Zinnias (Zinnia spp.)

Common butterflies in eastern Colorado and the foods they use are shown in Table 2. Include these food sources to encourage a steady flow of butterfly visitors.

Common Conflicts
Many of the most attractive nectar plants are commonly considered as "weeds" in other settings. Good examples are various thistles and dandelion, all highly attractive to several common butterflies. The well-manicured and tended garden discourages some butterfly species that develop on wild types of plants. (Note: Canada thistle is considered a noxious weed. Areas that have formed weed districts prohibit by law the culture of Canada thistle.)

A few butterflies also develop on certain garden crops and may be pests if the vegetable is considered more desirable than the insects. The European cabbage butterfly (on broccoli, cabbage and other mustards) and the black swallowtail (on parsley and dill) are common garden inhabitants in Colorado.

Use insecticides sparingly because most are not compatible with attracting and increasing the number of butterflies in a yard. Most garden insecticides can kill the caterpillar stages of the insects. Adult butterflies also can be killed by resting on insecticide-treated surfaces.

References
A Field Guide to Western Butterflies, 2nd Edition. 1999. P.A. Opler and A. Wright (illustrator). Peterson Field Guide Series, Houghton-Mifflin.
Butterflies of North America. P.A. Opler, R.E. Stanford, H. Pavulaan, coordinators, USDI-USGS, Northern Prairie Wildlife Research Center.
http://www.npwrc.usgs.gov/resource/distr/lepid/bflyusa/bflyusa.htm
Butterfly Gardening: Creating Summer Magic in Your Garden. 1990. Xerces Society, in association with the Smithsonian Institution. Sierra Club Books. San Francisco.
Emmel, T.C., M.C. Minno and B.A. Drummond. 1992. Florissant Butterflies: A Guide to the Fossil and Present Day Species of Central Colorado. Stanford University Press. Stanford, Calif.
Ferris, C.D., and F.M. Brown. 1981. Butterflies of the Rocky Mountain States. University of Oklahoma Press. Norman, Okla.
Opler, P., and S.W. Strawn. 1988. Butterflies of the American West: A Coloring Album. Roberts Rinehart. Niwot, Colo.
Opler, P., and A.B. Wright. 1994. Peterson First Guides. Butterflies and Moths. Houghton Mifflin. Boston, New York.
Pyle, R.M. 1981. Audubon Field Guide to North American Butterflies. Alfred A. Knopf. New York.


Table 2: Food used by common eastern Colorado butterflies and skippers.
Butterfly Flight period Caterpillar food Common nectar plants, adult food
Black swallowtail
(Papilio polyxenes) April-September Dill, parsley, fennel, carrot Butterfly weed, alfalfa, thistle
Checkered skipper
(Pyrgus communis) April-October Mallow, hollyhock Verbena, dandelion, Canada thistle, aster
Checkered white
(Pontia protodice) April-November Tumble mustard Alfafa, mustards, bee balm
Clouded sulfur
(Colias philodice) April-November Alfalfa, clover Alfalfa, phlox, rabbitbrush, aster, marigold
Edwards fritillary
(Speyeria edwardsii) June-September Nuttall's violet Rabbitbrush, gaillardia, bee balm
European cabbage butterfly
(Pieris rapae) April-October Broccoli, cabbage (mustard family) Many
Gorgone checkerspot
(Charidryas gorgone) May-September Sunflowers White clover, dandelion, Canada thistle
Gray hairstreak
(Strymon melinus) May-October Many Many
Hackberry butterfly
(Asterocampa celtis) May-September Hackberry Rotting fruit, sap flows
Melissa blue
(Lycaeides melissa) April-October Wild licorice, alfalfa, etc. Bee balm, sweet clover
Monarch
(Danaus plexippus) June-October Milkweed Cosmos, Canada thistle, rabbitbrush, etc.
Mourning cloak
(Nymphalis antiopa) February-November Willow, aspen, cottonwood, elm Rabbitbrush, milkweed, sap
Orange sulfur
(Colias eurytheme) April-October Alfalfa, vetch, pea Alfalfa, marigold, zinnia
Painted Lady
(Vanessa cardui) April-October Thistle, hollyhock, sunflower Grape hyacinth, cosmos, zinnia, alfalfa, many flowers
Silver-spotted skipper
(Epargyreus clarus) May-July Wild licorice, locust, etc. Lilac, dogbane, zinnia, sweet pea, Canada thistle
Two-tailed swallowtail
(Papilio multicaudatus) April-August Green ash, chokecherry Geranium, thistle, milkweed
Variegated fritillary
(Euptoieta claudia) April-October Various, including pansy Rabbitbrush, Canada thistle
Weidemeyer's admiral
(Limentitis weidemeyerii) June-September Willow, aspen, cottonwood Sap flows, snowberry, dung
Western tiger swallowtail
(Papilio rutulus) May-July Willow, cottonwood, chokecherry Zinnia, lilac, butterflybush, thistle, milkweed
Wood nymph
(Cercyonis pegala) June-August Grasses Rabbitbrush, clematis, Canada thistle"

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05504.html


lawn care, butterflies, organic, gardening, vegetables

Garden Plants That Attract Birds

lawn, gardening, organic, birds

In concentrating as we do on the subject of Lawn Care, I suspect that we often are guilty of missing the bigger picture with regard to our gardens. For example, a lawn does not just sit in splendid isolation, but should be part of the scenic "whole" garden. Thus we need to ensure the surrounding context - plants, flowers, insects, birds and so on - are equally attended to, so that a harmonic balance is achieved. Only by so doing will we create the true harmonic "whole entity" that is a true garden.

On this point, I came across this Article by Rosemary Drisdelle at http://bird-habitats.suite101.com on the subject of attracting Birds by planting the appropriate trees and shrubs. It is fresh and thought provoking and I recommend it to you!

Gardeners often choose garden plants that are attractive to birds. Here's a sampling of plants of various types that you might use.
If you’re thinking about putting some plants in your backyard bird habitat that will bring in more birds, you’ll need to think about how much space you have and what will grow well in your area. Here are eight suggestions to get you thinking:

Crabapple: a tall spreading flowering tree that grows well in most parts of North America and much of Europe and Asia. The small fruit are eaten by birds and other wildlife, and the high dense branches provide roosting and nesting sites. Crabapples need a lot of space.

Hawthorn: a small tree suited to smaller yards. Hawthorn has fruit on its branches in the colder months, so it can be an important source of food for birds in winter. It also provides good nesting sites and cover from predators. Cardinals and Cedar Waxwings, among other birds, are attracted to hawthorn.

Elderberry: a tall shrub that produces delicate flowers and abundant small fruits—a good plant to grow if your soil is moist. Cedar Waxwings, Rose-breasted Grosbeaks, Gray Catbirds, and dozens of other species of birds visit elderberry for food, nesting sites, or shelter.

Currant: a smaller shrub that produces flowers to attract hummingbirds, and fruit that draws American Robins, California Thrashers, and Hermit Thrushes. Birds that nest near the ground in dense bushes will use a currant bush. A number of species of currant are available, many of which are very drought tolerant.

Honeysuckle: a vine, and a favorite of hummingbirds. A large healthy honeysuckle will also provide lots of insects for birds to eat, fruit that is attractive to blue birds, and sheltered nesting sites.

Rose: shrubs or climbers that flower beautifully while providing insects for food in summer and rosehips in winter. Cardinals and sparrows are noted for visiting roses. The dense thorny growth of many roses provides good protective cover for birds, and safe nesting sites as well.

Sunflowers: tall showy annual flowers that produce a favorite food of many birds—sunflower seeds. The plants stand in the garden well into the fall for birds to visit, or you can harvest the seed and put it out in a feeder all winter.

Butterfly weed: a tall perennial known for attracting butterflies—and it's also a favorite host plant for growing caterpillars. A garden full of butterflies and caterpillars is beautiful in its own right, but it also attracts insect eating birds.
When choosing plants to attract birds to your garden, be sure to consult a local garden specialist to be sure your choices are appropriate for conditions in your area. As well, don’t forget that using herbicides and insecticides in your garden can create a toxic environment for birds and reduce their food supply by killing worms, insects, and other invertebrates. To enjoy lots of birds and butterflies in your garden, switch to chemical free gardening methods.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://bird-habitats.suite101.com


lawn, gardening, organic, birds

Natural Garden Care

lawn, gardening, organic, care

Hi guys! As you are all aware, there is great interest in Organic (Natural) gardening these days. This usually means using natural fertilizing methods, but the Subject is wider than that. I spotted this Article by Francine Stephens at www.checnet.org which is thought provoking and full of basic commonsense. I recommend it to you!

Gardening with your children can be a wonderful way to share your experience of nature with them in an educational and fun setting. Children love to dig in the dirt, make mud pies, and search for bugs. Children also enjoy planting seeds, watching them grow and eating what they have grown. By cultivating their curiosity, you can help your children to develop a life-long love, and respect, for nature.

Healthy soil is the raw material from which a healthy garden can grow. If we allow the soil to retain its natural organic matter, minerals and microorganisms that make the soil a living substance, it will be able to ward off most weeds, insects and disease naturally.

Organic gardening is based on this principle. In an organic garden, synthetic fertilizers and pesticides are not used, but natural fertilizers and pest controls that do not interfere with the health of the garden ecosystem are permitted.

The basic tenets of organic gardening include the following:

CompostingCompost is a rich organic material that results from decomposing organic matter. Mixing compost into garden soil replenishes it with nutrients and organic matter. Compost is easy to make. Simply collect organic material from your kitchen, such as vegetable and fruit waste and garden trimmings, such as fallen leaves and grass clippings, and pile it in a heap outdoors or in a compost bin. This organic matter decomposes with the help of bacteria and heat. What’s left after a few months is call "Black Gold" by some gardeners.

While compost and other organic material release nutrients slowly, they are much safer for the environment and gardens than synthetic fertilizers. Synthetic fertilizers give plants a quick boost, but overuse can result in acidification of soil and does nothing to replace the organic matter which gives substance to soil and supports organisms necessary to soil building.
Aeration of the soilHealthy soil also needs air, which feeds the organisms and microorganisms that break down organic matter to release nutrients. By avoiding pesticides and keeping the soil full of organic material, your garden will be a rich habitat for earthworms. They’ll aerate your soil as well as break down organic matter. You can also use a broad fork to aerate once a year.
Plant diversity When you plant a variety of species in your garden, you encourage genetic diversity, which leads to more successful adaptation in the face of threats by insects and disease. Plant varieties can be more or less attractive to pests as well as garden helpers, such as butterflies and bees. By keeping the garden diverse, your garden ecosystem will be more balanced.
Crop rotation Rotating the location of various types of plants in your garden from year to year prevents the soil from being depleted of nutrients. Corn uses up lots of nitrogen, while legumes put nitrogen back into soil. Planting corn in the same location year after year is likely to result in poorer harvests as time goes due to insufficient nitrogen in the soil. Rotating the corn to another location in the garden prevents the soil from being exhausted of nitrogen. Rotation of plants also prevents soil diseases from taking hold.
Use of cover crops At the end of each season, plant cover crops like clover, rye or alfalfa. They protect soil, keep it from becoming compacted, and can be tilled under to add nutrients back into the soil.
"Companion planting" Planting your vegetables next to other plants that have different odors and root secretions, will help to divert pests away from your plants. Marigolds and tomatoes for example are a good combination. Garlic also helps drive away some insects.
Manual weeding Regular hoeing will control weeds and keep plants healthy and more resistant to insects. Other means of eliminating weeds naturally include pouring boiling water over weeds and using specialized tools, such as a dandelion digger–a long, sharp tool that penetrates as far as dandelion roots do. Using mulch around plants also keeps weeds from sprouting and competing with garden plants.
All gardens will have some pestsTolerating minor flaws and blemishes on fruit and vegetables does not diminish the nutritional value of the food. Garden pests should not be regarded as enemies, rather as indicators of plant stress, letting you know that something is not right. Sick plants attract predators, and an infestation should be signal that your garden ecosystem is out of balance. Adding beneficial insects, such as ladybugs or lacewings boost the predator populations and keep problem insects in check. Too much or too little water, fertilizer, sun, etc., may cause disease.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: www.checnet.org

lawn care, organic, gardening

5 steps to a lush, almost perfect lawn

lawn care, organic, gardening

Well guys, we certainly kicked Tony Blair in the goolies as I hoped we would. Good riddance to bad rubbish! Come on Blair - Do the decent thing and resign today. On more mundane matters, I found this Article at www.american-lawns.com and was attracted by its simplistic, yet effective recommendations. Do the simple things well and regularly and you can't go wrong.

"While there is no magic pill to achieving a better lawn there are some basic steps you can follow that will go a long way in giving you a lush, healthy lawn you'll be proud to walk over. Here then are the 5 basic steps to help anyone achieve a beautiful lawn.

Get the mowing height right for the right time of year.
There's more to mowing than just cutting the grass every saturday. One of the most fundamental steps to a perfect lawn is getting the mowing height right for your type of lawn and for the season.

Most grasses do best with a length of 2 - 3". This applies for spring and early fall. In the summer, if possible, set it even higher. Never go below the minimum recommended height except for the last mowing of the season which should be around 1.5" for most turf grasses.

Mowing height is important because the grass uses the extra length to absorb the sunshine it needs to grow and develop into a healthy plant.

Never remove more than 1/3 at any one mowing. This may mean you'll have to mow more often during prime growing times (usually spring and early fall).

Leave the clippings on the lawn after you mow. This not only save time and energy, but the clippings decompose and add vital nutrients back into the soil. Grass cycling recycles plant nutrients back into the soil. Clippings contain the same beneficial nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium nutrients as that expensive bag of fertilizer. In fact, clippings can provide up to one-third of the annual feeding requirement for your lawn.

Use a sharp blade.
The type of mower doesn't matter, but the blade's condition does. A dull blade tears at the grass. Take a close look at a grass blade a few days after mowing. If the blade is dull you'll notice a jagged brown line across the tip of the cut grass. This is a good indication that your blade needs sharpening. Professional mowers sharpen their blades about every 8 hours of use. For most homeowners, twice a year is recommended.

The jagged edges caused by a dull mower blade make it more difficult for the grass to fight off pests and disease.

Regulate the water intake
Over watering your lawn causes more damage than a lack of water. That's because most turf grasses can handle dry spells, but not flooding. Most grasses require 1 - 1.5" of water per week. This is enough water to moisten the soil to 4 - 6" below the surface for clay soils and 8 - 10" for sandy soils.
Don't guess at how much water your lawn is getting. For measuring Mother Nature's contribution, invest in a rain gauge. If at the end of the week she's contributed enough, hold off adding more. If she comes up short, you'll want to add some supplemental watering. Again, measure how much water your sprinkler is putting down.

You'll have to follow local regulations when there are watering bans, but just remember that less water is acceptable and grass is a very resilient plant. When the rains do return your lawn will come back with a little encouragement on your part.

Give your lawn a regular balanced diet-- but don't over-feed it!
Don't over-feed your lawn with too much of a good thing. 4 balanced fertilizer applications a year is plenty: spring, summer, early fall and after the first frost. If you're in drought conditions, skip the summer feeding. Never skip the fall feeding however. It’s important to use lawn products by following label instructions. Get the best results by following the directions. Overapplication will not improve performance.

Prevention is the best medicine for a healthy lawn
Preventing problems is better than having to correct them. Consistent maintenance is the key. Repair bare spots as needed. Spot treat for weeds with the right herbicide following label directions. Use pre-emergent herbicides for most grassy-type weeds like crabgrass.

Soils can become compacted in high-traffic areas or in areas that have mostly clay soils. Have your lawn aerated once a year, preferably in the fall when soil temperature is around 60 degrees.

That's it. Pretty simple actually and easy to follow."

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: www.american-lawns.comcom

lawn care, organic, gardening

Feeding and Weeding Your Lawn With Chemicals

Lawn care, chemicals, organic, gardening,

Hi Guys, here in the UK we are having Local Government Elections today. Last chance to kick Mr Blair in the goolies before he retires to the multi-million dollar lecture circuit. Or possibly he will con some poor bastard into funding his Messianic programme to save the World. Last chance guys. Get out there and vote!

On to nicer subjects, I came across this Article on Chemical feeding and weeding, which I will recommend to you. The Article comes from www.gardenaction.co.uk and is worth a read. Pity we couldn't have used the process to weed out the so-called (allegedly) Government graft.

"There are three readily available lawn feed compounds, each designed for a specific purpose. These are:

1. Spring and summer feed compound. This is rich in nitrogen with a small amount of phosphates. This should be applied in spring when the grass begins to put on some growth.
2. Autumn / fall feed compound. This is rich in phosphates with little nitrogen. This should be applied in autumn when the grass starts to grow more slowly.
3. Lawn sand. This is a mixture of ammonium sulphate, iron sulphate and fine sand. it is used to kill a wide variety of weeds and is especially good at preventing and killing moss in lawns. Additionally it provides a long term tonic for your lawn and has a definite 'greening' effect. It is normally applied in late spring but where moss is a problem it can also be applied in summer.

Study the instructions carefully before applying any of the above treatments because over-application will result in damage to your lawn. If the lawn suffers from over-application, water it very well for a day and in all likelihood it will recover.

Apply the treatments when the weather is dry but there is the prospect of rain in a day or so. If rain does not appear, water well for a day. Do NOT apply any of the above to a new lawn - wait 12 months for a seed sown lawn and 6 months for a turf / sod laid lawn.

When choosing any of the above, go for a well-known name and you will be OK. In general, all the brands are the same, they merely vary the balance of the chemicals slightly. One exception however is that some brands have slow release formulas which release the chemicals into the lawn over a longer time than standard varieties. It is well worth paying the extra money for these brands.

How To Apply Fertiliser

Whichever method you choose, it is essential that the treatment is applied evenly to avoid scorching the lawn in places.

APPLICATION BY HAND
First rule is use gloves and wash your hands afterward - remember, you are using dangerous chemicals. The best method is to use half going up and down the lawn then use the other half going crossways across the lawn.

LIQUID APPLICATION
Normally this means adding the treatment to a specific amount of water in a watering can. Sometimes, there are attachments for hoses. This method is quick acting and less likely to cause scorching.

MECHANICAL APPLICATION
The treatment is added to a container in a wheeled trolley which dispenses the chemicals evenly as the trolley is moved along. If the instructions are followed, this method ensures even distribution."

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: www.gardenaction.co.uk.com

lawn care, chemicals, organic, gardening

Gardening Calendar - Mid Spring!

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Here in U.K. the weather continues cold and blustery. Some bright days, but the wind is cutting on the North East Coast! We are nearing the beginning of May, when hopefully things will warm up - for us as well as our plants. Here is a Calendar of things to do in the garden in mid Spring from our friends at www.greenzonelife.com

Mid Spring

In mid spring the gardens are full of life, we are now truly into the spring season, the moment of fresh growth and the most exciting season of all seasons in the garden. Everything begin to look green and full of life and the warmer days take us out for longer moments. Is the moment of true joy in every gardener heart and one of the busiest season in the garden.

The warmer days provide ideal conditions for all plants and everything will come to life to transform the garden in a place full of colors and flagrances. The small creatures that have overwintered in our gardens also come back to life from their winter hibernation.

The small seedlings that appear in the trays are the result of the weather conditions that give them the light and warmth and help them to become stronger. Some hardy annuals can now be sown directly outside in the place you want them to grow for the summer display. Be careful to keep a straight row when you sow so you can be able to distinguish the flowers from the weeds that are also starting their growth period.

You can plant gladioli corms, dahlias tubers and chrysanthemums outside, in groups of one variety for a better display. You can start dividing large and congested clumps of decorative grasses or spreading perennials and you can remove the winter protection from the containers.

You can start the clippings on the new growth of the decorative hedges, doing this for maintenance or to give them a new look by creating topiary. Also remember to prune back the flowering shoots of forsythia as soon as its flowers have faded.

Now is a perfect time for a general fertilization and weed-killing using general fertilizer and mulch of bark or compost. For having good crops this year, give some extra attention to your fruiting trees by helping them with a good fertilizer and spreading mulch of compost around them to conserve soil moisture and keep the weeds down. Plant disease-resistant varieties and protect the rest of the others by spraying them with a systemic fungicide.

Mid spring is the time to start the sowing in the vegetable garden too, sow or plant directly outside: herbs, lettuce, broad beans, onion, peas, salads, potatoes or carrots under cloches.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: www.greenzonelife.com

lawn care, gardening

Lawn Care - So you want a Terrific Lawn?

lawn care, gardening

The thing about gardening, as about life, is to do the simple things regularly and well. The result far outweighing the sum of the individual parts. As an example of this I recommend the following Article from our friends at www.yardcare.com

If you want to have a terrific lawn:

1. Fix the soil and maintain it every year without fail
To grow great grass you need good dirt – healthy humus rich soil filled with earthworms and beneficial microbes. To create good soil, I recommend an annual application of organic material such as autumn leaves or Canadian sphagnum peat moss to your lawn. Use your mulching mower to mulch an inch or so of finely chopped leaves into the grass each fall or spread a 1/8th inch of Canadian sphagnum peat moss on the lawn in the spring and/or the fall. You get a 1/8th inch layer by spreading the peat moss with a grass rake and raking it in so thoroughly it’s no longer visible among the blades of grass.

2. Overseed the lawn every 3 to 4-years even if it looks great
A lawn that is as dense as brand new sod, year after year, will have few weeds. To get the lawn thick, overseed the lawn in the fall or spring once or twice the first year. Once the second year, and then make it a routine to reseed every 3 or 4 years even if the lawn is looking really good.

3. Use a mulching lawnmower
A good mulching lawn mower chops up the grass so fine there are never any clumps left on top of the turf. Recycling clippings back into the lawn for an entire season provides the grass plants as much nitrogen as there is in a application of fertilizer. However, the most important reason, by far for using a mulching mower is to be able to chop leaves finely enough in the fall to leave an inch of chopped leaves on the lawn over the winter to feed those earthworms and beneficial soil microbes that reduce compaction, provide nutrients, and improve drainage.

4. Mow the lawn properly
For the best appearance and good health of lawn grass, mow high using a sharp blade. A dull blade will tear rather than cut the lawn leaving a ragged end on the grass blades that cast a dull haze over the lawn. That ragged edge also leaves the grass more vulnerable to disease. Depending on the size of the lawn, a mower blade becomes dull after one or two seasons and should be sharpened or replaced every year or two. Grass that is dense and cut over 2-inches tall has few weeds and serves as habitat for ants, spiders, and ground beetles which keep the pest insects of a lawn in check. Tall grass shades the soil reducing evaporation of moisture and will not burn out in the heat of summer. Set the mower for 2 to 2-1/2 inches in the spring and fall and raise it to 3 inches in summer.

5. Use only slow release granular fertilizer
Quick release nitrogen fertilizers need to be applied three or four times a year in order to be effective. High in salts, the increased salinity burns turf roots and repels the valuable earthworms and kill many of the beneficial soil microbes. Slow release nitrogen fertilizer needs to be applied only once or twice a year and will not hurt the soil critters. Use slow release nitrogen fertilizer in the spring and again in the fall for a few years, but if you are taking care of your soil, you can drop back to a single application in the fall, or split the application putting down half the recommended amount in spring and half in fall.

6. Avoid watering too much or too little
The key questions in watering the lawn are: “When does the grass need to be watered?” and “How much do I need to water?”. When you walk over a lawn that is mowed tall, you will leave temporary footprints. If the footprints disappear with the grass popping back upright within a minute or two the grass has enough water. If the foot prints last more than 3 or 4 minutes, the lawn needs to be watered. In spring and fall between your hose and Mother Nature, give the lawn an inch of water each week. Lawns need two inches a week in the heat of the summer. An empty tuna fish can is one inch deep so put a few empty tuna cans out in the pattern of your sprinkler and track the time to see how long it takes to fill the cans and you can quickly figure how to deliver an accurate amount of water to the lawn. A rain gauge will help you keep track of Mother Nature’s contribution.

7. Avoid using any broad spectrum insecticides
A lawn that is dense and mowed tall is likely to be inhabited by a healthy population of beneficial insects, including ants, spiders, and ground beetles, seldom has any problems from fleas, grubs, sod webworms, chinch bugs or any other lawn grass insect pest. If you routinely use a broad spectrum insecticide each year, you will kill all the good guys along with the bad guys. If the grass is mowed tall and kept dense from overseeding, those beneficial insects will eliminate the need for the annual use of the insecticide.

8. Spread lime only if needed in late fall, not in the spring
Use lime on the lawn only if you are sure that your soil is acidic enough to justify it. A soil test is the only accurate way to tell. Contact your County Extension Service to get a soil test kit and related information. If you do apply lime, use a granular lime product in October or even in November. It takes six months for granular lime to break down sufficiently to be helpful to the grass plants.

9. Buy only the highest quality grass seed
Only the top quality grass seed includes varieties that have been bred with good disease resistance, look good, and are drought resistant. When you buy the high-end brands, you can trust the grass seed companies to give you the right mixture for the northeast. Buy full sun mix if your lawn gets over 6 hours of sun a day. Use a shade mixture if your lawn gets 3 to 6 hours of sun a day. Any lawn getting less than 3 hours of sun a day must be overseeded every spring to look even average for the season.

10. Get rid of grubs and moles by growing good soil
Grubs and moles are only a problem in lawns that are compacted and have turf with roots only two inches deep. If you add organic matter to the soil under your turf on a yearly basis, the earthworms and soil microbes lower the level of compaction over time, so after 3 to 5 years, the grubs and moles are working down at the 4 to 6 inch depth and are not evident in your lawn.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.yardcare.com

lawn care, gardening