Lawn Care - 8 Steps to Lawn Restoration - Step 8!

lawn care, gardening

Here is the final Lesson in the 8 Lesson Lawn Restoration Series at www.yardcare.com terry

Care for Young Plants

Your work to this point will have been in vain if you don't care for the young grass plants as the seeds germinate and begin to grow. The most critical need is to apply water at least twice a day, assuming no rain. If the soil is allowed to dry out, the seedlings won't germinate or will soon wither and die. To maximize the germination rate, soak your lawn on the same day you sow the seeds. On the next day, assuming no rain, lightly sprinkle or mist the lawn for about 5 minutes morning and afternoon. Be sure you have moistened the soil to a depth of one inch. Keep the overseeded lawn moist until the young grass plants are 2 inches tall by repeating a light watering every day after periods without rain. This will take 4 to 6 weeks. When the grass is 2 inches tall, resume normal watering patterns. For tips on setting up a convenient, low-cost watering system, see "Starting a Lawn from Scratch."

If the weather is dry or warm, spread a layer of hay mulch to protect the seed from the drying effects of the sun and wind. Use clean mulching straw that's free of seed. Evenly spread about 100 pounds per 1000 square feet. Avoid putting down a heavy layer that would inhibit grass growth.

Begin mowing once the new grass reaches 2 inches. Use a sharp blade; a dull one may tear up young grass plants. Otherwise, stay off the seeded areas except to fertilize once more. If needed, apply the rest of the fertilizer as recommended by your soil test, or apply a second dose of 1/2 pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet six weeks after germination.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.http://yardcare.com/.com


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Lawn Care - 8 Steps to Lawn Restoration - Step 7!

lawn care, gardening

Here is Lesson 7 in the 8 Lesson Lawn Restoration Series at www.yardcare.com terry

Prepare the Surface and Overseed It

In the North, the best time to overseed is in late summer and the early fall, although you may also try this technique in early spring. Starting then gives the young grass plants a better chance to germinate, establish strong roots, and store food needed for a head-start in the spring. In the South, the recommended time to overseed is spring or early summer.

Before you begin, choose the seed that's best for you based on the information in the section, "Choosing the right Grass." Be sure to select one of the new varieties bred to withstand the stresses your lawn faces. Then use the table "How Much Seed to Use When Overseeding" to help you estimate how much seed to buy.

You have several tool options for spreading seed evenly and at the recommended rates. They include your own hands, handheld and walk-behind spreaders, and slit-seeders, which are power machines that cut shallow slits in the soil and sow seed at the same time. Available at many rental stores, slit-seeders are the preferred tool, especially if you were not able to remove all thatch prior to overseeding. (See Appendix I for more details on these tools.)

If you will be spreading seed by hand or with a spreader, first use a thatching rake to roughen the exposed soil to a depth of 1/2 inch. Set the spreader to deliver the seed that's recommended by the seed producer for seeding a new lawn. If you were not able to remove all thatch, sow a little extra seed. Similarly, the higher the percentage of weeds in your lawn, the more seed you should sow. For sowing grass seed, the recommended approach is to apply seed to the edges of the area you are sowing first. Then divide your seed and apply half while walking in one direction, the other half while walking in a perpendicular direction. Spread extra seed on bare areas, lightly cover the seed with a mixture of compost and topsoil; then spread more seed on top.

Finally, follow up by rolling all seeded areas with a water-weighted roller that is one-third full to press the seed into the soil. These steps will help prevent the seed from drying out rapidly and consequently improve germination rates.

If you have a lawn with grass that spreads by stolons (aboveground runners), such as Bermudagrass, St. Augustine, zoysia or buffalograss, you may introduce new grass plants by inserting plugs rather than seed.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.http://yardcare.com/.com


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Lawn Care - 8 Steps to Lawn Restoration - Step 6!

lawn care, gardening

Here is Lesson 6 in the 8 Lesson Lawn Restoration Series at www.yardcare.com terry

Aerate Your Lawn

Aeration, also called core cultivation or aerifying, is an important part of any lawn restoration program. It allows grass roots to deeply penetrate the soil, helps fertilizer and organic matter get to roots, allows oxygen to reach the roots, and makes it easier for water to soak into the soil. Simply aerate once in the fall. Avoid aerating during dry summer months because you may damage an already stressed lawn. Also, avoid periods when weed seeds are prevalent, as that could cause weed infestation. There are several types of aerating tools. Manual aerators allow you to do small areas a little at a time and to aerate corners and other tight areas that are difficult to reach with large equipment. You supply the power for these tools by pushing the hollow cylinders or corers into the turf - much as you would push in a spade. The tool cuts a plug, or core, that is extracted and deposited on the lawn the next time you push it into the turf. Small power aerators work similarly and are available at rental stores. Some machines use a rotating tillerlike action that pushes the corers into the soil and extracts small plugs, as the machines pull you forward. These lawn mower-size machines will fit into a full-size station wagon, mini-van, or pickup truck and they require two people to transport them.

Avoid aerators that only poke holes in the lawn without removing plugs because they are of less value to your lawn. The largest aerators will require a truck and several helpers to transport them but do a better job. With these machines, the corers are vertically plunged into the turf to extract a sizable plug. You may opt to have a pro tackle this job.

Aerators penetrate your lawn best when the soil has been moistened by rain or watering; so, unless it rains, water your lawn the day before aerating. When aerating, make several passes in several directions over every square foot of lawn. Next, break up all the plugs extracted by the aerator with the back of a rake or by dragging a metal mesh doormat or section of chain-link fence over the plugs to spread the soil. You can also mix the soil from the plugs with the topdressing you added in Step 5. Then water the lawn thoroughly.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.http://yardcare.com/.com


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Lawn Care - 8 Steps to Lawn Restoration - Steps 4 & 5!

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Here are Lessons 4 & 5 in the 8 Lesson Lawn Restoration Series at www.yardcare.com terry

Add Nutrients

When restoring a lawn, apply the fertilizer recommended by the results of your soil. Use a slow-release fertilizer, and avoid putting down more fertilizer than you need. Adding too much nitrogen can cause rapid growth and a thinning of plant cell walls, which makes grass more susceptible to disease. The excess fertilizer may also leach and eventually find its way into waterways, polluting them.If you did not test your soil, apply a slow-release fertilizer with an Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium ratio of 3-1-2. Apply about 1/2 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn. (See "Turf Fertilization" for more on fertilizer types.)

Build Organic Matter and Microbe Numbers

The right dose of fertilizer won't help much if your soil does not contain an adequate population of microbes, you need billions of these microscopic organisms per handful. Microbes not only digest grass clippings, dead grass roots, and stems, but they also make their nutrients available to living grass plants.

To have a thriving microbe population, your soil must contain 2 to 5 percent organic material. A topdressing of compost mixed with topsoil followed by aeration will eventually incorporate some organic matter into the soil without disrupting the lawn. When top dressing your lawn, apply about one cubic yard, which is 100 pounds of a 40-60 mix of topsoil and compost, per 1000 square feet. Topsoil is available from most nurseries and landscape centers. Be sure it has a dark, rich brown color and feel and that it has not been diluted with lighter-colored subsoils. Compost can be obtained from several sources. Many towns make compost available to residents at little or no cost. They make compost from the leaves, grass, and brush that residents haul to the dump. The compost should be screened to 1/4- or 3/8-inch particles, and it should be free of in organic materials, such as shreds of plastic leaf bags. Its moisture content should be 30 and 50 percent. Any drier, and the compost releases a lot of dust as it's being worked; any wetter, and the material tends to clump and not mix well with soil. Compost is also available from nurseries and landscape centers. Better yet, make your own.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.http://yardcare.com/.com


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Lawn Care - 8 Steps to Lawn Restoration - Step 3!

lawn care, gardening

Here is Lesson 3 in the 8 Lesson Lawn Restoration Series at www.yardcare.com terry

Adjust Your Soil's pH
Before applying anything, it is best to test your own soil or obtain test results from a professional testing service. If your soil test shows that the soil pH is low, add lime according to the test recommendations. If you did your own pH test and thus have no recommendations to go by, use the accompanying charts to determine how much lime to apply. If you're unsure of your test results, be conservative. Too much of an amendment can be as detrimental to your lawn as none at all.

Lime amendments come in various forms, from ground oyster shells to liquids. Agricultural ground limestone is the preferred type because it is readily available and can be safely, easily, and accurately applied with a drop or rotary spreader. There are two types of agricultural ground limestone: dolomitic and calcitic. Both contain calcium carbonate, a grass nutrient, and a neutralizer for acidic soil. Dolomitic limestone contains magnesium, another important nutrient, as well as calcium carbonate. Use dolomitic limestone if your soil is deficient in magnesium. Calcitic limestone does not contain magnesium, making it more appropriate if your soil is already high in magnesium. However, adding dolomitic limestone to soil already high in magnesium has not been shown to cause lawn problems.

For faster results, choose a finely ground limestone. Fine grinds begin to correct the soil pH faster than coarse grinds. Coarsely ground limestone acts slowly and is better suited for use once you have raised your pH to a desirable range. You can tell fine lime from coarse if you understand the information on the package. The higher the percentage of ground lime that passes through the finer sieves, the finer the grind. Sieves are graded by number; the higher the number the smaller the sieve holes. Look for a product stating that 50 percent or more of the ground limestone will pass through a number 100 sieve. Caution: Fine grinds can burn grass. Check instructions on the packaging.

One more thing to keep in mind when buying lime is its relative purity. Liming materials are rated according to their Calcium Carbonate Equivalent (CCE). A CCE rating of 100 is equal to pure calcium carbonate; less than 100 indicates less neutralizing ability than calcium carbonate. Account for the CCE when figuring how much lime to apply to your lawn. If the CCE of the product you purchase is 80 and your soil test recommendations assume a CCE of 100, you will need to increase the recommended application rate by 20 percent.

As you can see from the chart, the more clay and organic content in your soil, the more lime you will need to correct the pH. Sandy soils require less lime to raise pH. If you need to add more that 40 pounds of lime per 1000 square feet to correct your pH, do it in two or more applications. And don't apply lime with fertilizer mixed in the same spreader. The resulting chemical reaction will release the nitrogen you want for your grass into the air. After spreading lime, water the lawn to wash the particles off the grass leaves and into the soil.

To lower the pH, add sulfur according to you soil test recommendations. Sulfur amendments are also available in the form of compounds, such as ammonium sulfate. These compounds can be used in place of elemental sulfur, but they can burn turf if used in excess. See amendment packaging for details on amounts that can be safely applied to turfgrass.

If you are relying on your own test kit and not a professional test, follow the recommendations in the chart. Sulfur acts within one month to lower soil pH. To avoid applying too much, don't try to make your correction in one application. To meet recommended amounts, make several surface applications a few weeks apart and water the grass after each application.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.http://yardcare.com/.com


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Lawn Care - 8 Steps to Lawn Restoration - Step 2!

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Here is Lessson 2 in the 8 Lesson Lawn Restoration Series at www.yardcare.com terry

Fill Depressions and Level Bumps

While you are dethatching your lawn, check for bumps and depressions. These may have been caused by poor grading, uneven settling, or the decomposition of buried tree stumps, logs, or roots. Mark any irregularities with latex spray paint so you can find them easily when you are ready to level them.

To level small bumps, raise the sod with a sharp spade and remove the necessary amount of soil beneath it. Cut out at least a 2 by 2-foot section of sod. If you lift smaller patches of sod, they will likely dry out and die. While the soil base is exposed, mix in some compost and fertilizer. Watersoak the area using a hose and press the sod back into place. Keep the area watered to prevent lawn brownout.

Slight depressions can be smoothed over by topdressing: applying to the surface a combination of topsoil and compost. A wide landscaping rake is the best tool for this job. When handling larger depressions--those more than an inch or two deep and several square feet in area--raise the sod; fill the depression with a mixture of soil, humus, and fertilizer; replace the sod, and press it in place. Be sure to keep repaired areas moist, or the edges will dry out and turn brown.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.http://yardcare.com/.com


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Lawn Care - 8 Steps to Lawn Restoration - Step 1!

lawn care, gardening

I have decided to publish a Lawn Restoration Series of 8 Lessons, based on a brilliant Article at www.yardcare.com
The first follows below and I recommend it to all interested gardeners! terry

A restoration allows you to improve your lawn without removing the existing turf. While restoring your lawn is not nearly as labor intensive as removing all of your turf and starting over, it will still require several weekends of work. In this section, each step of a lawn restoration is described, some of which are essential and others optional. In most parts of North America, the best time to begin restoration is late summer or in fall, although adjusting pH and dethatching can be done in the spring to prepare for a fall restoration. You will see some improvement in a restored lawn during the season in which you begin, but you will need two or three growing seasons to see dramatic progress.

1. Remove Thatch and Weeds
When beginning a lawn restoration, the first step is to remove any thatch buildup--even low levels that would otherwise be acceptable. Unless you can expose the soil between the old grass plants, the steps that follow will have poor results. While you're at it, make a note of weed colonies and remove the worst of them with a grape (grubbing) hoe before proceeding to Step 2.

The best time to dethatch is when your lawn is thriving - not when it's stressed in the heat of summer or cold of winter. To begin, set the height adjustment on your mower to cut the grass about 1 inch high, essentially half its normal mowing height. Mow the entire lawn. Short grass will make dethatching and surface preparation easier. It will also improve seed germination rates because more seed will make contact with the soil and seedlings will have greater exposure to the sun.

The easiest way to remove thatch from a lawn that is over 3,000 square feet is with a power rake, or vertical mower (a machine with vertical instead of horizontal cutting blades), which should be available at rental stores. For smaller lawns or lawns with thin, 1/2- to 1-inch layers of thatch, a manual thatching rake will do a satisfactory job. When using a vertical mower to remove average amounts of thatch and to scarify the soil, set the blades to cut 1/8 to 1/4 inch into the soil. Make several test passes on an inconspicuous area of your lawn to judge how much thatch (and turf) will be removed. If too much or too little is removed, raise or lower the blades accordingly. The spacing between blades can be adjusted on some machines, but this is difficult to do and so is best done by the rental store staff. The blade spacing for Bermudagrass and zoysiagrass is 1 to 2 inches, while the spacing for bahiagrass and St. Augustinegrass is 3 inches. Most rental store owners will know the optimum settings for the grasses grown in your area.

When using a vertical mower to dethatch, make several passes over the lawn in perpendicular directions. It is important to be thorough. Remove the thatch you pull up after each series of passes and add it to your compost pile. When you have finished dethatching, remow your lawn to a height of 1 inch. For more information on manual thatching rakes, power-rakes, or vertical mowers, see "Appendix I."

On a lawn with thick thatch (more than 1-1/2 inches), you may need to partially remove the thatch and allow the lawn to fully recover before the next dethatching session. Removing too much thatch all at once can do more harm than good. The rule of thumb is to remove what you can without tearing up holes of more than a couple of square inches in live turf. This may not be possible on lawns with very thick thatch--more than 2 inches. In that case, your lawn may not be salvageable and may need to be replanted from scratch. See "Starting a New Lawn from Scratch."

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.http://yardcare.com/.com


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Lawn Care - The Easy Way to Maintain Your Lawn!

lawn care, gardening

I am all for an easy life - at least as easy as I can make it - especially where Gardening is concerned! Anything which will take the blood and sweat out of the equation is fine by me! In many ways, simple routine is the answer, together with the right tools and doing the right tasks at the right time. Often this alone will produce the finished product. I came across this Article by Joe Provey at www.lazyhomeowner.com which is on this theme, and I recommend you read it. terry

The amount of time and money you spend maintaining your lawn depends a lot on what your idea of a lawn should be – not necessarily what your lawn actually needs. Early lawns of the Middle Ages did not require much maintenance. That’s because they were inspired by glades or grassy openings in the forest (not pictures in magazines or golf courses). These lawns were meadow-like mixtures of grasses and flowers that
were planted amongst fruit trees, vines, flowers and herbs and enclosed by fences or courtyards. There was no mowing. Grass was kept from growing too tall by trampling it into a soft, woven mat-like surface. If you too can adjust your expectations to taller grass, a mix of other plants in your turf, such as clover, and midsummer periods when your grass temporarily turns brown, you can achieve a low-maintenance lawn – and one that’s closer to the original spirit of the lawn.

The Right Height

There are several reasons not to cut your grass too short.

First, grass grows from the crown, not the blade tips. This trait makes grass ideal for lawns because they keep on growing despite the regular mowing off of their upper stem, leaf sheath and blades. This is also why it’s important not to damage grass crowns by accidental scalping with the mower. No crown, no grass!
Second, keeping grass on the longer side also allows it greater surface area to carry out photosynthesis. This in turn results in healthier plants.
Third, taller grass grows slower than shorter grass. You can use this simple fact to eliminate up to 20 percent of the mowings you do annually. That’s a savings of about 8 hours for the average lawn owner, not to mention saving on gasoline and wear and tear on equipment. Finally, by keeping your grass at high end of its recommended mowing height, you can prevent 90 percent of all weeds from germinating – and thereby
eliminate the need for herbicides.

When to Mow

Most cool season grasses should be cut when they reach heights of 3 to 3-1/2 inches –typically once a week. Warm season grasses should be mowed when it is 2 to 2-1/2 inches tall. Cut no more than 1/3 of the grass height at each mowing to avoid damage to plants. If the lawn grows too high for you to cut off 1/3 the height and have an acceptable length, cut off one third now and mow 1/3 off again in two or three days.
Cutting more than 1/3 the height will cause grass clippings to lay on top of the lawn and decompose more slowly and will give the grass a more open bristly appearance. In addition, short cutting will stunt or slow root growth and weaken the grass plants.

What to do with your lawn clippings

Today’s advice, contrary to 20 or 30 years ago, is to leave clippings on the lawn. The old belief that clippings contribute to thatch build-up is false. Thatch is a build-up of roots and stems, not grass blades. Use a mulching mower and leave clippings where they fall. It not only saves the labor of collecting and composting them, it also reduces the need for adding fertilizer to your lawn and helps to
conserve soil moisture. There are exceptions, however, to this advice. If you have neglected your mowing or must mow in wet conditions, the long clippings are likely to form heavy soggy clumps thatcover the grass. In such cases, the clippings should be removed so they do not smother the grass.

The idea of leaving clippings on the lawn is not new. In 1859 Henry Winthrop Sargent, a garden book writer and editor, wrote that “except during May and June when the growth of grass is more rampant, and has to be gathered, we have removed our box for catching the grass as it falls from the rollers, and permit it to fly in
a little shower all over the lawn as the cutting progresses. In this way, the lawn-top dresses itself, by returning all that it produces.”

Today’s new mulching mowers, also called recycling mowers, makes it even easier to leave clippings where they fall. The deck and blade designs enable these mowers to cut each blade several times, producing a finely chopped clipping.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.http://lazyhomeowner.com/.com


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Gardening - Soil - At the Root of it All!

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I suppose in the end gardening is a simple enough exercise. If you get the basics right, then the end product is usually right. There really is no great mystique to gardening - and nowhere is this more true than when getting back to basics and getting the Soil right. Have a look at this Article by Georgiana Marshen at www.gardenguides.com a must read for all gardeners! terry

In order to have good, healthy, productive plants you must have good, healthy soil. A good soil is one which retains water, readily releases nutrients to the plants, and drains well. A good soil should be porous enough to allow air to circulate around the roots and yet be strong enough to support the plant during growth and maturity. The three guidelines used to judge "good" soils are structure, nutrients and pH level.

Have you ever heard someone refer to the soil type as being heavy or light? Heavy soil is clay-like and sticky, especially when wet. Light soil is very dry and sandy. The best type of soil, loam, falls somewhere in between the two. This is known as soil structure. Good soil structure is one that is equally balanced between sand, clay and loam. This type of soil will permit good drainage while allowing sufficient water retention. It will also help retain soil nutrients while maintaining food aeration of the roots.

Soil must have three important nutrients: they are nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. All three of these "ingredients" plays a key role in the development of a plant. Nitrogen is used by the plant in the development of the stems and foliage. Phosphorous is used for the growth of the roots and flowers. A plant's food production is promoted by potassium. Soil lacking any of these three key nutrients will cause poor growth and development of the plant in one or all of these major areas.

Nutrients, together with proper soil structure, will enhance your plants' chances of successful growth. A good way to find out exactly what you have in the way of soil structure and nutrient levels is to have your soil tested. Most garden centres provide this service.

I was instructed to take small spoonfuls of soil from approximately 20 different areas of the garden. I also had to dig down a good 6-8 inches to get my samples. This allows you to get an overall view of your garden, not just one concentrated area. The report I received told me my soil type, the nutrient levels, and another important measurement, pH.

The proper pH level in your soil is directly related to the health of your plant. Plants cannot absorb the nutrients if the pH level is too low or too high. A soil with a pH too high (alkaline) or too low (acidic) will stop the nutrients from being released and made available to the plants. The ideal pH level for flowerbeds and vegetable gardens ranges from 6.0 to 7.0. Your soil test will give you the best picture of your soil's structure and quality.

So you've received your soil test results in the mail. The news isn't too bad. Your pH is a little low (5.5), the soil needs some organic matter, and your nutrient levels could use a little adjustment, but otherwise, the structure is pretty balanced. Okay, where do you need to begin? Address the pH problem first. The soil's pH levels must be corrected before any of the other adjustments can be made.

You have to add ten pounds of lime per 100 square feet of soil in order to raise the pH one full point. To lower you pH, substitute sulfur for the lime. Lime and sulfur can be purchased at any local garden center. I recommend using dolomitic limestone. It won't burn plant roots and it adds magnesium to the soil. Magnesium is a trace element plants love!

So, your pH level is fixed, now let's work on the organic matter. Organic matter does two things for your soil. It adds nutrients and aids in the soil structure. It makes clay-like soil more crumbly and helps sandy soil retain moisture. Well-rotted manure, leaf mold, peat moss or compost are just a few of the organic materials that can be added to your soil. Spade 3 inches of the top layer down to a depth of six inches. You can add a general garden fertilizer, such as 5-10-5 or 5-10-10. Follow the directions on the package for how much to apply but don't add it until two weeks after the pH adjustment.

There are good times to improve a soil and there are better times to improve a soil. The best time to amend a soil is in the Autumn. This gives all the materials that were added time to breakdown. Dig the garden in the fall, leaving it rough and messy looking. Do not smooth it out to look orderly. The winter freezing and thawing will naturally aerate the soil. Insects present in the soil will be exposed to the elements. If you must dig and amend the soil in the spring, test the soil first to see if it is ready to be worked. To do this, take a handful of soil and squeeze it into a ball. If the ball breaks apart easily, the soil is ready. If it doesn't, the soil is too moist. Wait two weeks and try this test again. Working a soil too soon in the season breaks down its structure.

It is a good idea to add more organic matter a week or two before you start planting in the spring even if you had already added it in the fall. Add about a 4 inch top layer and work it down about 6 - 12 inches.

One of the organic materials mentioned before was compost. There is nothing hard about making compost. You can build fancy bins or use trash barrels. If you decide to go with a bin, a good size to work with is 4' x 4' and no more than 4' high. Some companies sell various types of compost containers, which can be easier, but at times, costly. Concrete blocks, chicken wire, old fencing or even hay bales can be used. I used old pieces of wood I had lying around and concrete blocks. I cornered out the area with the blocks and then laid the wood on top of each block forming a box. Adding the concrete blocks creates air spaces. Airflow allows the microorganisms that breakdown all the materials to do their job more effectively.

Let's make a compost pile. Decide what kind of container you are going to use. The list is endless as to what you can put into a pile. Just remember the trick is in the layering. The more chopped up the materials are, the quicker the pile will decompose. You should always try to add a nitrogen source, such as grass clippings, to help speed up the process. Always layer the materials you are adding. For example, start with a layer of hay, then add leaves, banana peels, grass clippings and garden soil. Repeat the layering as you gather materials always ending with garden soil. This helps reduce the possibility of odors. Make it a point to turn your pile at least once a week and add water only if the pile seems dry. NEVER add meat scraps because you will attract many undesirable critters to your yard. Woody materials such as tree branches take a long time to breakdown so don't add them. Wood ashes are a good source of potash. You can also add your end of the season crops to the pile. Just don't add any plants that may have been diseased during the growing season. Earthworms present in a pile is a sure sign your pile is decomposing properly. Coffee grounds, vegetable waste, eggshells, fruit scraps and leaves are just a few examples of what can go into a compost pile.

A garden soil can quickly be depleted of all its nutrients. Always amend your soil at the end of your growing season and add organic matter again in the spring. Remember, the healthier your soil, the healthier your plants. Happy Gardening!

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.http://gardenguides.com/.com


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Lawn Care - Ponds!

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Whenever I think of a Lawn, I tend to think of a pristine untouched vista of cultivated grass, beautifully crafted with parrallel lines running along its length where the Lawn Mower has left its mark. All fine and dandy! But what about something different for a change? What about something which as well as being a lovely sight, also attracts both Wildlife and Birds of all descriptions? In short, what about a pond expertly built into your Lawn? What about that for an idea!

I came across this Article at
http://landscaping.repherence.com/ whichh gives a complete rundown on backyard ponds. It is excellent and I recommend it to you all! terry

Backyard Ponds

A pond or water garden will likely become the focal point for all your backyard conservation.

Backyard ponds and water gardens are for birds, butterflies, frogs, fish, and you and your family. These ponds are typically small, sometimes no larger than 3 to 4 feet in diameter. They may be built in barrels or other patio containers. Water is effective in drawing wildlife to your backyard. It is also a natural, relaxing, and scenic addition that can provide interest and enjoyment.

Where to put a backyard pond

Consider locating your backyard pond where you can see it from a deck or patio. Have it blend in with its natural surroundings. Elevate the soil around the pond slightly so that excess water will flow away from the pond, not into it. Make sure that any drainage from the pond is away from your house. Plan to landscape around the pond to provide habitat for frogs and birds that need land and water. If you plan to use a pump to re-circulate water, use a filter, or light the area, be sure electrical service is available. There will be less maintenance if your pond is not under trees. Most aquatic plants will grow better in full sun.

If you do not have space in your yard for a built-in earthen pond, consider a "tub" pond or large water bowls. These can be placed on the patio and provide many of the same benefits as a built-in pond. There are numerous tub kits available that can be as simple as adding water, a pump, and some plants. They can also be moved inside in the winter as long as good lighting is provided for plants.

Pond liners

Pond liners keep water from seeping into the soil. Even in heavy clay soils, a liner is necessary. You can buy rigid pond liners in a variety of shapes. These are durable and may include built-in waterfalls. Many are quite small. If you want a larger pool or would like to design your own shape, consider using a polyvinyl chloride (PVC) liner. Use a liner specifically designed for pools. While other plastics initially may be cheaper, many are not resistant to ultraviolet light and will break down quickly. Some plastics may also be toxic to fish. Liners also come in different thicknesses. A thicker liner tends to be more resistant to punctures. While expensive and requiring more expertise to install, cement is also an option as a pool liner.

If you use PVC, you will need to get a liner large enough for your pool. To determine how large a piece you will need, determine the maximum width, length, and depth of your pond. Multiply the maximum depth by 3. Then add this number to both the length and width. This will allow enough plastic to be securely held down around all pond edges.

Installing the pond

You can put in a backyard pond anytime the ground is not frozen or overly wet. If using a pre-formed liner, dig a hole to the correct depth and slightly wider. Insert the liner, making sure it is level and sits securely in the ground. Backfill around the sides. Add water, pump, and plants. Complete landscaping around the pool. If you use a PVC liner, plan on at least a weekend to install and landscape.

Steps to install a pond with a PVC liner:

Decide on your pond's location.

Using a hose or rope, lay out the shape of your pond on the ground.

Once you are happy with the shape, start digging. Stockpile your topsoil so you can use it to landscape around your pond.

Plan for part of your pond being at least 18 to 24 inches deep; 24 to 36 inches is even better. This will allow for a greater diversity of plants and fish to live in the pond. You may want to make tiers around the inside of the pond at various depths on which to place pots of different aquatic plants.

Make tiers about 12 inches wide to accommodate the pots.

Remove any rocks from the excavated area.

To help prevent punctures in the plastic, put a one-inch layer of damp sand on the bottom of the excavated area.

Spread the plastic liner over the hole. Let it sag gently in the hole.

Place a few rocks or bricks around the edge to hold in place.

Slowly start filling your pond. The weight of the water will help smooth out the liner. Remove rocks holding the edges to allow liner to conform to the edges of the hole. Smooth out wrinkles but do not pull too tightly. You can walk on the liner if you remove your shoes.

Finish off the pond by placing rocks around the edge to securely hold the liner in place.

Install pump and filter, if desired. Many smaller pumps have a built-in filter. For larger pools, a separate pump and filter may be necessary. Make sure the filter and pump are adequate for the volume of water in your pond. Pumps not only add interest, but are important in adding oxygen to the water. If you want a fountain or waterfall in your pond, you will need a pump to circulate the water.

Let the pond sit for a few days before adding fish and plants. This allows chlorine to evaporate from the water. Chemicals are also available that will quickly neutralize chlorine and other harmful compounds.

Place plants at various depths and add fish.

Establishing plants

For ponds, consider a mix of emergent, submergent, and floating species. Emergent plants, those that have their roots in the water but their shoots above water, can be added to the margins of pools. These include cattails (Typha spp.), arrowhead (Sagittaria spp.), and water lilies (Nymphaea spp.). Submergent species, or those that remain under water such as elodea, are often used as oxygenators. These are plants that remove carbon dioxide from the water and add oxygen. These plants are essential in most ponds to keep the water clear. Floating species or those that are not anchored at all in the pond include plants such as duckweed (Lemna minor), water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes), and water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes). While attractive, water hyacinth and water lettuce can be serious weed problems in the south; however, since they are not winter hardy, there is no problem with them spreading in northern climates. While not as effective as oxygenators, these plants help keep the water clear by limiting the amount of sunlight that algae receive. In tiny ponds created in barrels and similar containers, these plants may be adequate to maintain clear water.

Choosing and establishing plants for ponds

Consider the following when selecting plants.

How deep is the water? This will be a factor in establishing plants and their survival over winter if you live in colder regions. Some species need a minimum depth of 2 to 3 feet to grow well.

Is your pond permanently installed in the ground or is it a small tub that will be moved inside in the winter? In this case, even tropical plants may be an option.

Will you drain your pond in the winter? If you intend to drain your pond, you should consider plants that can spend the winter in a basement in a dormant state.

How much sunlight does your pond receive?

How large is your pond? If your pond is small, consider dwarf species. Purchase plants from a reliable vendor. Remember to include some oxygenator plants such as elodea.

Emergent and submergent plants should be planted into pots. A wide assortment of pots is available, from plastic baskets to pulp planters.

Choose pots that are large enough for your plants.

If using baskets with numerous perforations, line the basket with burlap or 2 layers of newspaper to keep the soil from falling out of the holes.

Fill the container about half full with a mixture of good garden topsoil. Do not use potting mixes or peat moss. These are too light and will float out of the pot. Adding aquatic plant fertilizer to this bottom layer of soil is recommended for some species. Follow directions on the label for amount.

Place the plant on top of the soil and fill the container with topsoil within one inch of the top.

When planting water lily rhizomes, make a mound of soil in the middle of the pot. Place the rhizome at a 45 degree angle. The crown of the rhizome should be toward the center of the pot. Cover the roots with soil, but not the crown.

In all cases, add a layer of gravel to the top of the pot. This will help keep the soil from floating out and prevent fish from digging in the soil.

Slowly place the pots in the pool to keep soil from floating out. Place pots on bricks to get the desired height.

Floating species can be placed directly into the pond with no other care needed.

Plants should cover 50 to 70 percent of the water surface. Native plants usually do not need fertilizer. For some exotic water lilies, limited fertilizing once yearly may be required. Check with your nursery on care of plants and how deep to place potted plants. Be aware that over fertilizing may cause unwanted algae blooms which can rob the water of oxygen.

Add fish and scavengers

Consider stocking your backyard pond with native fish. They are fun to watch and help keep the pond free of unwanted insects. Most small ponds will warm up quickly in the summer, so make sure you stock with fish that can tolerate elevated temperatures.

You'll also need scavengers, such as aquatic snails and tadpoles, to help control algae. In cold climates, a heater may be necessary for fish to survive the winter. However, this uses a significant amount of electricity and, in most cases, probably is not justified. A better option may be to set up an indoor aquarium in which to "over winter" fish and plants.

Maintenance

Algae is a common problem in many newly established ponds. The water often becomes an unsightly green after a few days. While your first instinct is to drain the pond and start over, this only prolongs the problem. Once a pond is "balanced," algae usually are kept at an acceptable level. A balanced pond is one in which the nutrients are at the appropriate level for the plants present. Excess nutrients and light are needed for algae. Reducing the nutrients and decreasing the amount of light entering the water will help reduce algae. Floating plants or those with broad leaves such as water lilies will help reduce the amount of light available for algae and compete for available nutrients. Scavengers such as snails will help clean up wastes from the bottom of the pond.

Pond filters can help reduce algae, but require maintenance. Filters need to be cleaned frequently if algae is a problem. Chemicals can also be used to control algae. Use cautiously as they can be toxic to other plants and aquatic life. The need for algaecides should decrease as plants become established.

Excessive plant growth, especially of free-floating plants, may be a problem. Periodically skim off excess growth of duckweed, water lettuce, and other floating plants. Monthly, prune dying plant material. Clean out some of the decaying plant material that has accumulated in the bottom of the pond in the spring. Remember: a natural pond is not a swimming pool and too much cleaning can do more harm than good.

Safety

Locate the backyard pond where it is unlikely to attract unattended children. Check local safety ordinances to determine if a fence is required for the specific depth and size of your pond.

Check local building ordinances for depth and safety restrictions and permits. Equip outdoor outlets with a ground-fault circuit interrupter. Unplug the pump before cleaning the filter.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.http://landscaping.repherence.com/.com

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Gardening - Compost Heaps!

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It never ceases to amaze me how many gardeners miss out on the many advantages of their own Compost heap, preferring to use proprietary fertilizers. Natural fertiliser created by the breakdown of organic materials is Nature's way of doing the job for you. Interestingly, I came across this excellent Article on the Subject at www.backyardgardener.com and I heartily recommend that you read it! terry

Compost heaps

There are several ways in which compost heaps can be made and various theories exist as to the way in which they should be treated. There are two important points which are essential for successful compost making and these are adequate drainage and aeration and sufficient moisture.

A compost heap is a necessary feature in the average garden. It provides a means of collecting the surprising amount of waste material which is gathered together during regular garden maintenance and it supplies the garden, or rather, the soil, with valuable organic matter. This organic matter fulfils several vital functions. It helps to improve the structure of the soil, especially the heavy clay types and the light sandy kinds. It encourages a vigorous root system and also acts as a sponge to retain moisture. Light, sandy soils tend to dry out rather badly and a high humus content is necessary to overcome this problem. Well-rotted composted vegetable waste can be used as a mulch around plants and between rows of vegetables where it will smother small annual weeds and prevent the surface soil from drying out badly.

It is advisable to give some thought to the siting and layout of a compost heap, particularly where the garden is small. A compost heap can look ugly and untidy if neglected, but fortunately there are several ways in which the material can be contained neatly and efficiently. Although the heap should be placed in an unobtrusive position in the garden, it should not be put in a position which is damp, heavily shaded or closed in. In these conditions the waste material can become offensive and will certainly not rot down into the dark friable mass it should.

The size of the area a compost heap will require will depend naturally on the size of the garden and especially on the number and sizes of the lawns, for the biggest proportion of compost heap ingredients consists of lawn clippings. The usual recommendation is that the heap should not be more than 90cm (3ft) wide or 90cm (3ft) in height when first built. There will be considerable shrinkage later on due to the decomposition of the waste vegetation in the heap. One of the neatest ways of making a compost heap is to purchase a specially constructed bin or container. Some are made from extra stout gauge wire, stove enamelled dark green, others have a rustic appearance with a strong wooden framework. Most types have either a removable side or one which hinges so that the heap can be filled or emptied easily.

It is quite an easy matter to construct a compost bin from the following material: four corner posts 1.2m (4ft) long (30cm (l ft) to be inserted in the ground), and 5-7cm (2-5in) square. The sides or `filling' in pieces are made from 90cm (3ft) lengths of timber 7cm (3in) wide and at least 2.5cm (1in) thick. Six will be required for each side making a total of 24 pieces. They are spaced approximately 10cm (4in) apart and screwed into the corner posts. To provide for a removable side, one set of side pieces, 3cm (1 1/4in) less in length than the others, are screwed to two separate corner rails 5-7cm (2-5in) wide and 2.5cm (1 in) thick. The complete unit slides into two of the fixed corner posts, in a groove or channel made from two 90cm. (3ft) pieces of 2.5 x 7cm (3 x 1in) timber spaced from the two fixed corner posts by two thin strips of wood 3cm (1 1/4in) thick and 2.5cm (1in) wide. All timber must be thoroughly treated against rot. The ends of the corner posts should be well soaked for several hours before they are inserted in the soil.

Where appearance is not important, or where the compost heap is so sited that it can be hidden from view, old sheets of corrugated iron could well be used in the construction.

The successful decomposition of waste material in a heap depends on the action of bacteria and fungi. The bacteria depend on plenty of nitrogen as food and the rate of decay can be increased by supplying some readily available nitrogen. This can be provided by sprinkling the material with a nitrogenous fertilizer such as sulphate of ammonia or Nitro-chalk. Another method of adding Nitrogen is by placing layers of good quality, fresh animal manure between the layers of garden waste. The heap is, in fact, built up in sandwich fashion with alternate layers of manure and waste.

To get rid of air pockets, each 15-20cm (6-8in) layer of material to be rotted down is trodden fairly firmly. It is customary, though not absolutely essential, to cover each trodden layer with a further layer of soil, about an inch thick. The next layer of waste material is put on this and trodden when it is about 15-20cm (6-8in) There are proprietary preparations on the market which accelerate the decomposition process. Some are specially formulated to deal with tougher ingredients of a heap such as herbaceous trimmings, pea and bean husk, or top growths. Others are particularly suited to the softer materials such as lawn clippings, lettuce leaves, annual weeds and such. Some proprietary formulae include seaweed which produces a very rapid fermentation of the heap. These accelerators are sprinkled on the layers of waste as the heap is built up, in lieu of the nitrogenous fertilizers mentioned.

Where the tougher materials are to be rotted down without the use of a proprietary compost maker, it is a good idea to bruise or chop the stems to aid rotting. Plenty of water must be provided also as this type of harder waste is built into a heap. Some gardeners can obtain quantities of straw and this is very useful as an addition to the compost heap. As a successful heap requires plenty of aeration and drainage, it is wise to start a heap with some of this coarser material at the bottom. Some gardeners like to drive in one or two stakes into a heap so that, when they are withdrawn, air holes or passages are provided which pass right into the material.

Although a well-made compost heap should rot down satisfactory by itself, the contents can be turned after a period of three to four weeks. This is done by transferring the heap to a position close by its original one. Forkfuls of rotting waste placed in the same area, but as the work is carried out, the outer portions of the heap are placed towards the center of the new one. It may be necessary to add a little water to areas which may be a little dry.

It is necessary to appreciate the fact that acids are produced as byproducts of even the most favorable decay and that too much acid will spoil compost. This problem can be overcome if some lime is included in the heap. This can be done if some powdered chalk or limestone is sprinkled on alternate layers of waste vegetation. A fertilizer or a dressing containing lime such as Nitrochalk can be used instead. It is important to note that lime and chalk must not be allowed to come into contact with sulphate of ammonia which might be used as an accelerator. If this is done, ammonia will be liberated and nitrogen lost as ammonia gas.

Decay is also hastened in a fairly warm temperature and in a damp atmosphere. The spring and autumn periods, therefore, will be times when rotting down will be at its peak. One would assume that the summer months would be ideal also. This is true to a certain extent, but if a heap is situated where it receives the direct rays of the sun, considerable drying out of the material will result and decay will not be as rapid.

Much of the value of the compost can be lost if the heap is exposed for long to rain. The nutrients will be lost by being washed away. Where compost has to be stored for any length of time, it is wise to provide some form of shelter for it. An open-sided shed is suitable or a temporary roof can be made. To do this, four strong posts are required about 5cm (2in) square. Two of these should be about 15-25cm (6-l0in) longer than the others. Their total length should be such that they clear the top of the compost heap by 60cm (2ft).

The longest posts are inserted at the front of the compost heap, close by the existing posts or bin sides. The other two posts are placed at the use of the heap. Across each pair of posts a rail should be fastened on which the roofing material will rest. The two rails should be cut from timber approximately 5 X 3 cm (2 x1.5in) in section.

Various types of material can be used for the roof. Corrugated metal sheets or cheap PVC sheets are ideal. The sheets are nailed or screwed down on to the cross rails. Where necessary, an overlap of 5-7cm (2-5in) on the sheets should be provided. The finished roof will have sufficient pitch or slope to shed rainfall. The sheets must be purchased large enough so that they overhang all four sides of the compost heap by at least l0cm (4in).

There are different opinions as to the length of time compost should be kept before it is ready for use. It must be kept until it has decayed to such an extent that the individual ingredients of which it is composed can no longer be distinguished. Usually the material is in an ideal condition when it has become a dark, friable or crumbly mass. A slimy state is not satisfactory and shows that the heap has been made up incorrectly.

In warm weather, soft refuse will take about four to six weeks to decay but in winter the period will be much longer, and anything up to three or four months will be necessary before thorough decomposition has taken place Where the refuse is harder or tougher, the period necessary for decomposition will be longer.

But the best of soils in both content and texture is useless unless it is moist. Plants need water to sustain themselves and because all plant foods are absorbed in the form of liquid chemical compounds. The source of nearly all the water that a garden needs is natural rain, and only in comparatively rare periods of drought is artificial watering necessary. This is a relatively simple matter today with the many watering aids available to us, some of them automatic. The main rule when watering is to do it thoroughly, for if only the soil surface is moist the roots of plants will tend to turn upwards in the soil towards this area and expose themselves to drought or to burning by the sun. It is almost impossible, except in low-lying areas or poorly drained soils, to over water artificially. Over watering occurs with repeated heavy rains

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.backyardgardener.com

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Lawn Care - More about Weeds!

lawn care, gardening

As we have been discussing this week the problems of dealing with weeds, I came across this Article by Greg Pierce at www.lawn-care-tips.com which deals in detail with the subject. Get it right from the start folks and you will get your just rewards with a fine lawn.

Weed Control

Weeds germinate and grow during all seasons of the year. Because of this many people fail in trying to control the weeds themselves since they will use a weed control product in the Spring only and then wonder why they have weeds in the Summer. Weed control products need to be used regularly just like the regular fertilizing schedule.
Most people will use a "weed and feed" product that contains weed control products and fertilizer together. This is the easiest way to do both tasks. There are two types of weed control products. Pre-emergent and Post emergent. Pre-emergent products control weeds before they germinate and come up. Post emergent products kill existing weeds. This is another reason the average home owner will get discouraged after attempting weed control, often the wrong type of weed killer is used on the wrong weed. Good weed control is achieved only when you use the right product for the right weed at the right time.

A typical weed control program will be something like this: First application of the year in early Spring. Feb to Apr depending on where you live. This will be a pre-emergent product with fertilizer. The idea is to apply the pre-emergent herbicide approximately 30 days before the time that the weeds you are trying to control would come up. So by applying in Feb. you will keep any weeds from coming up that would normally be coming up in Mar. through May, depending on the product used.

Most weed control products will last around 60 days depending on how much rain falls on the product after it is applied. Excess rainfall will weaken the weed control and make it not last as long. Proper application is important since the product won't work unless you follow directions and apply it the way it should be done.

Always follow label instructions and never go by the old adage that if one ounce is good then 2 ounces will be really good. Applying twice the recommended amount of a weed control product than what is called for can kill all existing grass and weeds in your lawn and possibly prevent new grass seed from germinating for some time. After about 60 days, apply another round of Weed and Feed. This time you will use Fertilizer with Post Emergent Herbicide, this will kill weeds that have already come up and are showing above the soil. If your lawn is in fairly good shape weed wise, you shouldn't have many weeds left after the 2nd application. If you do, apply another round 60 days later and then a final round in the fall.

Spreading the applications out around 60 day intervals you should cover the season with 4 applications. Some people will put down 5 or even 6 applications but it depends on the product you are using. Always follow the label instructions for amount and frequency. Regardless of the brand or type of weed control you use it will take more than one application in the year to get control of weeds and keep them under control. Be patient.

Key Benefits

Less weeds means the grass will look smoother or more even

After you mow, with no weeds the grass will keep it's good looks

Your Turfgrass will be thicker with no competition from weeds

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.lawn-care-tips.com

lawn care, gardening

Lawn Care - Spring Lawn Weed Treatments!

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It's about this time of year that the hard work starts. If you want that perfect Lawn for the rest of the Year, better get down to some hard preventative graft. Start right and you can't go wrong. The first step is dealing with our perennial friends "WEEDS!" OK - don't panic. Here is some sound advice on the subject by Dawn West at www.allaboutlawns.com ... terry

Spring is an ideal time to take out many types of lawn weeds. You can kill some of them before they even get going, and others, you can wipe out just as they're at the peak of their growth. Here are a few of the types of weeds you should target and what you need to do to send them packing.

Kill the right weeds this spring, and you can spare yourself a lot of trouble come summer and fall. Go after the following.

Crabgrass
Anyone who's dealt with it knows just how persistent and annoying crabgrass can be. You can spend all summer spot treating and digging out the nasty weed, or you can tackle the problem in the spring and spare yourself almost all of the hassle. A pre-emergence herbicide sprayed about two weeks before crabgrass germinates in your area will take care of crabgrass better than anything else.

Check with your local agricultural extension service to find out the right dates for your area if you plan on spraying yourself. If you have a lawn service provider, check to make sure they plan on treating your yard for crabgrass this spring.

Chickweed
Chickweed has virtually the same story as crabgrass. It's a pain if you let it get a foothold, but a good pre-emergence treatment in the spring will largely take care of the problem.

Assorted Annuals
A host of other lawn weeds that crop up annually like crabgrass and chickweed are also best sprayed in the spring. Here are just a few of them: purslane, sandbur, buttercup, goosegrass, witchgrass, and spurge.

Warning: Dandelions, Etc.
Lawn weeds of another variety, broadleaf perennials, like dandelions, also show up vigorously in the spring. While you may want to go after those little annoying yellow flowers at the beginning of the year, the best time to really get at them is the fall, when perennials like dandelions are storing away nutrients for the winter. They'll carry the herbicide right down to their roots and die just the way you want them to. You can fight the problem in the spring, but you won't really win the war until the fall. Get out early and treat the right weeds this spring, and you'll be much happier come summer.

About the Author
Dawn West B.A. holds a B.A. in English from Harvard University and teaches writing at Oregon State University.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.allaboutlawns.com
lawn care, gardening

Lawn Care - Trimmer Advice!

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I'm always amazed when I see some people using Lawn Trimmers. Accidents waiting to happen! Cable all over the place, just waiting for people to trip; badly frayed cable waiting to electrocute the unwary; trimmers that have been handed down from your grandfather! Take my advice - with the coming of Spring why don't you have a good look at your own Trimmer, and if there is any doubt about its ability to do the job safely, open that wallet and invest in a new, safe machine. To that end, this Article by Jim Barnard at www.yardcare.com gives some timely advice... terry

Choosing the Right String Trimmer for the Job

There are basically three options when buying a string trimmer: gas powered, corded electric or cordless electric. It is important to carefully consider your needs prior to purchase, because a string trimmer that is too heavy or an extension cord that doesn't reach can make the work more difficult that it has to be. Regardless of which string trimmer you choose, don't forget to wear protective eyewear.
• Corded Electric trimmers are convenient for smaller jobs. They are quieter, don't require charging or fueling and are virtually maintenance free. Before purchasing a corded unit, take inventory of how much space you are dealing with (anything less than a 1/4 acre is fine) and how many obstacles you have in your yard. Most manufacturers recommend using a 14-guage extension cord that is no longer then 100-feet.
• Cordless electric trimmers have all the advantages of the corded trimmers - without the cord. They are easy to use and perfect for lawns with many obstacles and trimming areas that may reach beyond where a cord can take you. Cordless trimmers need to be recharged after each use. Run times vary, so be sure to match the trimmer you buy to the amount of trimming you're doing. Keep in mind, that the average homeowner only spends about 15 minutes trimming their lawn.
• Gas powered string trimmers are great for large lawns. They don't have cords and can operate for long periods of time. But, they can be noisy, difficult to start and in general, require more maintenance than electric trimmers. Keep in mind gas powered trimmers tend to weigh more than electric models. Choose a trimmer that doesn't feel too cumbersome - remember you'll be carrying it around your yard.

In General:
• Make sure to check out the procedure for changing the line spool in your trimmer. Replacing a spool can be an easy task if you choose the right trimmer. If it looks difficult to change in the store, chances are you'll be frustrated by the task at home.
• Look for special features in your trimmer. If you have a number of edging tasks to take care of, look for a trimmer that easily converts to an edger. You'll have two tools in one. And, if you have a lot of natural borders, plants and flower beds, look for a trimmer with a vegetation guard - that way you'll be able to trim the grass without damaging your precious plants.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.yardcare.com

lawn care, gardening

Lawn Care - How to Fight Lawn Fungus this Spring!

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Picked up this Article by Dawn West at www.allaboutlawns.com which is timely with the coming of Spring in the U.K. Have a look - she talks good sense! terry

How to Fight Lawn Fungus this Spring

by Dawn West
All About Lawns Columnist

With the coming of spring, your lawn can be especially vulnerable to lawn fungus. Whether you see the signs of lawn fungus in tell tale mushrooms popping up around your yard or in discolored patches or even mildew, slime, or mold, you don't have to surrender. Let the following tips help you conquer lawn fungus or better yet, prevent lawn fungus from showing up in the first place.-

Remove Snow to Stop Snow-Related Lawn Fungus
Common spring lawn diseases like snow mold generally appear when the ground has thawed but the lawn is still covered with snow. You can side-step trouble by spreading snow evenly or moving any snow piles from winter shoveling off the lawn.

Knock Out Lawn Mushrooms by Improving Drainage
Mushrooms are the fruiting bodies of fungus and they're evidence of two things--decaying organic material beneath the surface or excessive moisture in your lawn. You may not be able to do anything about heavy spring rain, but you can do something about debris in your soil or drainage problems in your yard. Dig out any dead tree roots or other buried material and aerate to loosen up the soil. If your yard has any low spots, fill them in. While you're waiting for your hard efforts to take effect, collect and dispose of the mushrooms daily to stop them from spreading their spores.

Approach Spring Fertilizer with Caution
Over-fertilizing makes your lawn ripe for many types of lawn fungus. The same nutrients your lawn loves also nourish fungi. So don't go overboard in the spring, particularly in the early spring when it can be tempting to green up your winter lawn. For guidelines on how much fertilizer your lawn needs, check out this site's fertilizer calculator.

Just because it's wet this spring doesn't mean you have to give your lawn over to fungus and pesky mushrooms. Taking a few steps to improve conditions in your yard will make a world of difference.

About the Author
Dawn West B.A. holds a B.A. in English from Harvard University and teaches writing at Oregon State University.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.allaboutlawns.com

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Lawn Care - Buying a Ride - On Mower!

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Here's an informative Article from Mike Ferrara at www.yardcare.com for all those Readers looking to buy a Ride-On Mower. Some good advice and lots of Tips. Enjoy... terry

In the Market for a New Tractor? Here's A Few Tips To Help You Make the Right Decision

Once you've established your needs there are a few things to know before you head out to the local dealer or home center.

What to Choose:
Experts say remember what you're buying the tractor for - it's fair to say that 90% of the time, you'll be using it to cut your lawn. That means the quality of cut should be your biggest concern. Look for mowing decks that are easily adjustable and feature mulching capabilities.

Typically Tractors Fit into Four Categories:

1. Zero Turning Radius Mowers are an excellent choice if you have more than a 1/2 acre to mow. Professionals have found that zero turning radius riding mowers can cut mowing time in half. How? In a word, zero turning radius mowers are more efficient. The rear wheels provide both the power and the steering, and they operate independently. That means one wheel can rotate forward while the other rotates in reverse. This allows you to make any turn, from 0- to 360-degrees. That unlimited maneuverability means you can trim around your mailbox, cut close to your flowerbeds and reach right to the edge of your lawn. You won't have to make several passes around an obstacle as you would need to on a tractor. Plus, they're fast - Z's can take on straightaways at speeds of up to 6.5mph. That's a couple of miles per hour faster than most tractors and much faster than walking behind a mower. Z's also offer up front visibility and plenty of legroom. Look for models with control dampers on the handles for smooth operation.
2. Riding Mowers are designed for 1/2- to 1-acre lawns and are easy to handle thanks to their good up-front visibility. Their main job is cutting the grass. Riding mowers are limited when it comes to attachments, but can normally handle a grass catcher or dump cart.
3. Lawn Tractors typically have higher horsepower engines, can take on larger lawns and can handle rough terrain better than a riding mower. Lawn tractors can handle additional attachments including a cart, sunshade, snowthrower and aerators.
4. Garden Tractors are the highest horsepower machines. If tilling a large garden or towing larger loads are on your to-do list, look for two-cylinder engines and rugged transmissions available on garden tractors.

Keep in mind that these categories are not written in stone. Many manufacturers offer mid-range tractors that are the size of a lawn tractor but have garden tractor engines that can handle ground-engaging tools.

Power and Dependability:
The engine is the heart of every quality tractor. Engines on bigger machines can go up to 23hp. For reduced maintenance and a prolonged life, choose engines with a high efficiency oil pump and filter, and a cooling fan to reduce engine stress.

For strength and durability, a one-piece cast iron axle is key. It also is important that the axle has dual adjustable tie rods to keep the wheels properly aligned. This one-piece casting gives the wheel spindle added support for minimum tire wear.

If you are planning on using heavy attachments, like a snowthrower or blade in front, or a tiller in back, look for overall frame support. Steel beam channels running the entire length of the tractor will give the support heavy attachments demand.

Safety and Comfort:
Safety features are a priority for tractor consumers. Make sure your tractor choice features a seat shutoff switch, which instantly kills the engine if you leave the seat while the wheels or attachments are moving.

Make sure the gasoline tank is separate from the engine and battery. Spilling a little gasoline is common, and it could ignite on a hot engine or from a battery spark.

Another example of an in-demand safety feature is a system that prevents mowing in reverse. Look for features that prevent mowing in reverse under normal conditions, but allow operators to choose to mow in reverse after they have taken steps to ensure that it is safe to do so.

Although operating a tractor in low-light conditions is never recommended, there will be times when you need extra light. Make sure your equipment has high-powered headlights.

Consumers also are interested in having comfort features. Tilt steering, adjustable seat and a cup holder on a tractor may seem extravagant, but think about it--if you spend an hour and a half to two hours a weekend on your tractor, it may be more time than you spend commuting in your car each day.

Where to Buy:
Once you've decided what type of tractor to buy, the next decision is where to purchase your tractor. Should you go to the local discount store, mass merchant or to a dealer? According to experts, discount stores offer low prices and convenient evening and weekend hours, but they may fall behind in service and quality. Dick Parish, an engineer with the Louisiana State University's AgCenter's Hammond Research Station says store tractors tend to be low-cost and of lower quality than tractor dealers sell and in many cases, parts and service are not available.

According to Parish, mass merchandisers can be a step up. "The tractors are typically equivalent in quality to discount store tractors, but the sales staff may be more knowledgeable and parts and service may be available."

If you're looking for top quality selection and great service most experts say your best bet is to head to a dedicated lawn and garden equipment dealer. "Dealers tend to have higher-quality tractors and the quality of sales and service staff and parts availability can be very good, adds Parish." Chances are a dealer will be better at recommending the type of riding mower or tractor that will best suit your needs.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.yardcare.com

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Lawn Care - Tips for Watering your Lawn!

Lawn care, gardening

Today's Article comes from www.yardcare.com and refers to the question of Watering your Lawn. Some good advice, and well worth reading. terry

Tips for Watering Your Lawn

Hot summer months can do a number on a lush, green lawn. To maintain the healthy lawn you've worked so hard to grow this spring, be savvy with your watering regimen and watch your grass thrive.

Balance is Key
Don't assume during a warm spell that the more water you soak into your lawn the healthier it will be. Depending on the soil type, a lawn can use about one or two inches of water per week. To measure how much your grass is getting, put a few graduated cups or cans in the sprinkling area to see how much water is collected. Run your sprinkler or irrigation system for 15 minutes, then measure the water in the cans. Multiply that number by four to get the average total for one hour of watering time. This exercise will also let you know which areas your sprinkling system is missing.

A good rule of thumb: It is better to water for shorter periods of time, more often
Keep the soil consistently moist but not wet. This ensures that your grass gets a study supply of moisture without wasting water.

Timing is Everything

* Don't water at night - water can sit on the lawn and may cause disease.
* Don't water at midday - you'll loose the most water to evaporation at this time.
* Do water early in the morning - evaporation is minimized and the lawn utilizes the most water.

Trust a Timer
Installing an automatic timer on your sprinkler or irrigation system will ensure that you don't accidentally leave it running and over-soak your grass. It can give you peace of mind to know that you won't be wasting water if you forget to turn the sprinkler off, and the grass will benefit indefinitely from regular and efficient waterings. Timers are great for conserving water; just be sure yours doesn't water when it is pouring rain. Consider installing a rain sensor if you have an irrigation system.

Cool it on the Chemicals
Applying too many chemicals on your lawn could kill more than weeds. Organic lawns require less water then chemically treated ones, especially in hot weather. Try using a mulching mower and leaving your clippings on the lawn when you mow. This returns valuable nutrients to the soil and helps retain moisture.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.yardcare.com

lawn care, gardening

Gardening - Top 10 Jobs in March!

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Top 10 jobs

* Plant shallots, onion sets and early potatoes
* Protect new spring shoots from slugs
* Plant summer-flowering bulbs
* Lift and divide overgrown clumps of perennials
* Top dress containers with fresh compost
* Mow the lawn on dry days
* Cut back Cornus (dogwood) and Salix (willow) grown for colourful winter stems
* Weeds come back in to growth - deal with them before they get out of hand
* Start feeding fish and using the pond fountain; remove pond heaters
* Open the greenhouse or conservatory doors and vents on warm days

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

lawn care, gardening

Gardening - More Frequently Asked Questions!

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I came across some information at http://www.yates.com which I thought was of interest and recommend it to you. terry

Q. The new leaves on my peach tree are all curled and bubbled and some of them are falling off. Why?

A. This is caused by a fungal disease called leaf curl. The tree must be sprayed with Leaf Curl Copper Fungicide at bud swell (when new buds show tips of colour). By the time the leaves show the damage it's too late to spray.

Q. The new leaves on my citrus tree are all twisted and curled. There are some wavy silver lines running through them. Should I use Leaf Curl Copper Fungicide?

A. No, this problem is caused by Citrus Leaf miner, an insect pest that mines its way through leaf tissue. Control by spraying regularly with a weak solution of PestOil or Yates White Oil, applied according to directions.

Q. I used to use Winter Oil to spray my fruit trees during winter but I can't buy it any more. Why not?

A. Yates White Oilcan be applied year round and has identical contents to the old Hortico Winter Oil. It can be used in just the same way.

Q. When is the best time to spray for fruit fly?

A. The best time to spray for Fruit Fly is when the fruit is just starting to turn from green to ripe. Consult the product label for full directions, and ensure the correct amount of applications are made to ensure fruit fly control.

Lawns

Q. I've sprayed my lawn with Weed 'n' Feed but I wondered how long I'd have to wait before I can let my dogs on to the lawn?

A. As soon as the grass is dry the dogs can be allowed onto the lawn. Discourage them from eating any of the grass during the first week and then mow. Don’t use clippings as mulch unless composted for at least 6 months.

Q. I can't spray my Weed 'n' Feedclose to the garden beds. How do I break it down to use in an ordinary spray container?

A. Mix the chemical with water at a rate of 30:1 (thirty parts of water to one part of chemical).300 mls in 9 litres of water over 20sq m. This can then be applied using a sprayer or a watering can and sprinkle bar.

Q. What's the difference between Granular Weed 'n' Feed and the liquid hose-on Weed 'n' Feed?

A. Granular Weed 'n' Feed works on a salt-burn principle. When the salts are sprinkled over the lawn, more will collect on the flat leaves of the weeds than on the vertical blades of the grass. If left dry for two days the whole lawn will be burnt but the weeds will suffer a far greater burn than the grasses. After two days the salts are dissolved to become available to the remaining plants (i.e. the grass) as a fertiliser. Liquid hose-on Weed 'n' Feed combines a liquid lawn fertiliser with a selective broad-leafed herbicide for a one-step weed and feed application.

Q. What sort of lawn can I grow in the shade of a big tree?

A. Possibly no lawn at all. Grasses love sun and do best in as much sun as possible. Cool season grasses tend to have more shade tolerance but, obviously, are more suited to cooler climates. Turf type tall fescues (such as in Yates Lush Droughtsmart lawn seed) are reasonably shade tolerant. If grass always fades away in a particular part of the lawn, then it would be best to switch to paving or shade tolerant ground covers.

Q. Is winter a good time to sow lawn seed in colder areas?

A. No, lawn seed does not germinate well in cold soil.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.yates.com

Gardening - Frequently Asked Questions!

lawn care, gardening

I came across some information at http://www.yates.com which I thought was of interest and recommend it to you. terry

Q. What do I do with my bulbs after they finish flowering?

A. Trim off dead flower stems and, if you want to keep the bulbs for next year, water them regularly with a soluble fertiliser (like Thrive or Aquasol) until the leaves die down completely. Then lift the bulbs, clean them and store them somewhere cool and dry. Cool climate bulbs - like tulips, hyacinths and daffodils - should be placed in the crisper section of the fridge in February and left for two months before planted out. Re-using bulbs can be a chancy business, especially if your winters are not particularly cold, and if you want best results you should buy fresh bulbs each year.

Chemical Disposal

Q. What is the best way to safely dispose of old chemicals?

A. Contact your local council for collection of chemical materials. To dispose of containers rinse thoroughly, smash or put holes in them and put in rubbish bin or take to tip. Do not recycle. For disposal of larger quantities of chemicals contact your local council. For pesticides, herbicides and fungicides, wrap the container in paper, put into a plastic bag and dispose of in the household garbage collection. The best way to dispose of any left over chemical, is to talk to your local council, who may have periodic chemical collection days, where you can safely leave old or unwanted garden chemicals.

Fertilising

Q. Why hasn't my plant flowered? It has lots of beautiful leaves and looks very healthy?

A. The soil may contain too much nitrogen relative to the other nutrients. Apply Thrive Flower and Fruit or Sulphate of Potash.

Q. When I spread dry fertiliser around my garden the plants ended up all turning brown on the edges. Why?

A. Dry fertilisers contain a high proportion of soluble nitrogen that will take water from the nearest plant if there is insufficient moisture in the soil. Always water dry fertiliser in well immediately after application.

Q. Why is it best not to fertilise in winter?

A. Most plants grow predominantly during the warmer months of the year. This is when they require both moisture and nutrients for growth. During winter, when there is no or minimal plant growth, plants require little or no nutrients, therefore it is unnecessary and also wasteful to fertiliser in winter.

Q. What is the dilution rate of hose-on products?

A. Hose-on applicators dilute at approximately 30 : 1.(water to product) Therefore Weed'n'Feed hose on can be used @300ml per 9l water and applied over 20 m2 with a watering can and sprinkle bar. Confidor Hose-On for lawns can be used in a watering can @10ml in 9litres water over 3m2 then watered in. Dynamic Lifter Hose-On plant food: 300ml:9 litres water:15m2.

Q. Are the heavy metals in Fertilisers dangerous?

A. Many of the nutrients in mineral fertilisers are originally derived from natural mined sources. These contain a small background level of heavy metals, just like garden soil. It's important to note, however, that common foods also contain heavy metals. For example chocolate contains cadmium and seafood contains mercury.These foodswill most likely provide more heavy metals in the diet than home garden fertilisers.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.

Article Source: http://www.yates.com

Lawn Care - God's Humorous Views on Lawns!

lawn care, gardening

Hi People - Something a bit different today! Let's smile about our Work for once. Enjoy! terry

Imagine the conversation The Creator might have had with St. Francis on the subject of lawns:

God: Hey St. Francis, you know all about gardens and nature. What in the world is going on down there in the Midwest? What happened to the dandelions, violets, thistle and stuff I started eons ago? I had a perfect "no maintenance" garden plan. Those plants grow in any type of soil, withstand drought and multiply with abandon. The nectar from the long lasting blossoms attracts butterflies, honey bees and flocks of songbirds. I expected to see a vast garden of colors by now. But all I see are these green rectangles.

St. Francis: It's the tribes that settled there, Lord. The Suburbanites. They started calling your flowers "weeds" and went to great lengths to kill them and replace them with grass.

God: Grass? But it's so boring. It's not colorful. It doesn't attract butterflies, birds and bees, only grubs and sod worms. It's temperamental with temperatures. Do these Suburbanites really want all that grass growing there?

St. Francis: Apparently so, Lord. They go to great pains to grow it and keep it green. They begin each spring by fertilizing grass and poisoning any other plant that crops up in the lawn.

God: The spring rains and warm weather probably make grass grow really fast. That must make the Suburbanites happy.

St. Francis: Apparently not, Lord. As soon as it grows a little, they cut it... sometimes twice a week.

God: They cut it? Do they then bail it like hay?

St. Francis: Not exactly, Lord. Most of them rake it up and put it in bags.

God: They bag it? Why? Is it a cash crop? Do they sell it?

St. Francis: No Sir. Just the opposite. They pay to throw it away.

God: Now let me get this straight. They fertilize grass so when it does grow, they cut it off and pay to throw it away?

St. Francis: Yes, Sir.

God: These Suburbanites must be relieved in the summer when we cut back on the rain and turn up the heat. That surely slows the growth and saves them a lot of work.

St. Francis: You are not going to believe this Lord. When the grass stops growing so fast, they drag out hoses and pay more money to water it so they can continue to mow it and pay to get rid of it.

God: What nonsense. At least they kept some of the trees. That was a sheer stroke of genius, if I do say so myself. The trees grow leaves in the spring to provide beauty and shade in the summer. In the autumn they fall to the ground and form a natural blanket to keep moisture in the soil and protect the trees and bushes. Plus, as they rot, the leaves form compost to enhance the soil. It's a natural circle of life.

St. Francis: You better sit down, Lord. The Suburbanites have drawn a new circle. As soon as the leaves fall, they rake them into great piles and pay to have them hauled away.

God: No. What do they do to protect the shrub and tree roots in the winter and to keep the soil moist and loose?

St. Francis: After throwing away the leaves, they go out and buy something which they call mulch. The haul it home and spread it around in place of the leaves.

God: And where do they get this mulch?

St. Francis: They cut down trees and grind them up to make the mulch.

God: Enough. I don't want to think about this anymore. Sister Catherine, you're in charge of the arts. What movie have you scheduled for us tonight?

Sister Catherine: "Dumb and Dumber", Lord. It's a real stupid movie about.....

God: Never mind, I think I just heard the whole story from St. Francis.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn

Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author

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