lawn care
Came across this Article by Greg Pierce of Lawn Masters Inc which I suggest you read. Lots of common sense! You can find the Site at http://www.lawn-care-tips.com
Fertilizing
Without Fertilizer most turfgrasses will struggle to maintain vigor and color. Fertilizing increases growth, color, vigor, hardiness, thickens the grass and is the mainstay of having a rich dark lawn. While Fertilizing alone will not provide a perfect lawn, it is one of the 5 most important parts of lawn care.
Fertilizer has three main elements. Nitrogen, (the first number) Phosphate, (the middle number) and Potash (the last number). Each element has a particular purpose as to what it does to a grass plant. Let's be simple here and just say that your lawn needs all of the above, but in different amounts. Nitrogen is the most used of the elements. It produces fast growth, dark color and helps thicken the grass. But a Fertilizer that is high in Nitrogen and low in Phosphate and Potash will
create too much top growth and not enough root growth or energy storage for recovery and over wintering. A balanced fertilizing program for your lawn will include all three main elements with some of the micro-nutrients also needed by grass. Micro-nutrients are minerals like Iron, Manganese, Zinc, Boron, Sulfur and others. These are not used as much as the three main elements but are needed some. Some of the micronutrients are readily available in the soil you have, others have to be added. To be certain what is needed a soil test is the place to start. After receiving the results of your soil test apply the recommended amounts of fertilizer in the quantity suggested. It is important that you do not over apply. This only stimulates top growth and has potential to harm the grass and cause runoff problems in surrounding lakes and streams. Without a soil test the basic idea of Fertilizing is to apply one pound of each nutrient per K ft. of lawn area. Going back to the numbers on a bag of Fertilizer, say 15-15-15, this means that each bag contains 15% of each Nutrient, so 100#s of this fertilizer would have 15# of Nitrogen, Phosphate and Potash. So if you were putting down one pound of Nutrient per K ft. 100# would cover 15 thousand square feet of lawn area with the correct amount of Fertilizer. Again, measure the lawn area of your property to know exactly how much grass you have. Don't assume that because you bought a one acre lot and built a house on it that you have one acre of grass. You will subtract the space for the house, the driveway, any landscape beds, any unimproved areas of the property that are not lawn areas, and by the time your done subtracting area you will arrive at a smaller area than you thought. Applying too much Fertilizer is dangerous, and costs you needlessly. Our basic program, each property we treat will get a specific tailored program for it's particular needs, will start with an application of 1 pound of N - P - K per thousand square feet followed by two applications that year of Nitrogen only with a fall application of a high Potash formula some call a Winterizer. This program is just a basic place to start and isn't the best plan for every lawn. Warm season grasses will require more fertilizer than the cool season grasses. Bermuda will need 1 pound of Nitrogen per month of growing season to spread rapidly and keep a deep dark color. This will mean two or three more applications than Fescue depending on where you live and how long your growing season is. Also the level of maintenance you want to give your lawn will determine your Fertilizing schedule. Some people will only Fertilize in the Fall, some Fall and Spring, and others follow a strict 4 or 6 application schedule for each year. The time to start Fertilizing is 30 days prior to the start of the growing season where you live. In our area that is Middle of Feb. to Mar. farther North might wait a month. A four application program will be spread out approximately 60 days apart through the growing season
Key Benefits
Provides Dark green rich turf color
Keeps grass healthy
Keeps grass thick helping to keep weeds out
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.lawn-care-tips.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
Wednesday, February 28, 2007
Tuesday, February 27, 2007
Lawn Care - Grass Establishment!
lawn care
Came across this Article by Greg Pierce of Lawn Masters Inc which I suggest you read. Lots of common sense! You can find the Site at http://www.lawn-care-tips.com
Some lawns are started from scratch, like a new home just completed with no lawn at all. Some are existing lawns that are in need of renovation. Some people have nice lawns right now but just want to keep it that way. Regardless of where you are follow these steps and get the lawn you want.
Seeding
Depending on the situation you are in your method of seeding will change. For new lawns with no grass just a lot of dirt or mud, the grade work must be done first. This is done by the contractor or by you if you are good with a tractor and box blade or a tiller and rake. Once the grading is complete and you are happy with the surface as far as smoothness, no holes or low spots, drainage taken care of, etc. then you are ready for the seeding process. The soil must be worked up to fluff it back up to make a good seed bed. Good seed to soil contact is important for good germination. After the soil is prepared you will apply the seed with a spreader, rotary type is best, apply half of the required seed in one direction and the other half in the opposite direction, this gives good coverage of the seed and uniform germination over the lawn. The required amount of seed will be determined by the type of grass you are planting, warm season or cool season grasses. Warm season grasses are planted about 30 days before the temperature turns warm in your area. April through May in the Southeast. Cool season grasses are planted in Fall (Best) or Spring 30 days before the optimum growing conditions exist. September or March in the Southeast. Warm Season grasses like Bermuda and Zoysia are to be planted after the temperatures reach optimum growing condition for Warm Season Grass. This is when it is 80 to 90 degrees. Warm Season grasses are very small seed, only 2-3# per thousand square feet are needed. Cool Season grass seeds are larger and require more pounds per K. 7-8# per thousand square feet are needed for good coverage and thick grass.
Seed can be used in several machines that will power seed the lawn. One machine has several terms, "power seeder", "no till drill seeder" are the most common.This machine has a hopper you pour the selected seed into, the machine will cut grooves in the lawn and drop seed into them in one pass. They do a very good job on lawns that are fairly level. If the lawn has pot holes and roots everywhere the cutters won't make contact with the ground leaving spots not seeded. These machines can be rented for anywhere from $50.00 to $125.00 per day depending on your area, the type of machine and how long you need it for. Another way of seeding is to Hydroseed. This is usually a process hired out since it requires special equipment not usually rented. Hydroseeding is a method used to renovate lawns or establish from scratch. On a lawn that needs thickened up, the mixture of Seed, Fertilizer, and a mulch material made from recycled wood or paper products is sprayed on the lawn. The mixture is dyed blue or green to help the operator see where he has sprayed it, this will turn white in a few days. The benefits of Hydroseeding are quicker germination and usually thicker germination since the seed is soaking in water as it's being done. It is one of the more expensive forms of seeding. A less expensive way to renovate a lawn is to use a Dethatcher followed by broadcasting seed. The Dethatcher will remove thatch and other material from the surface of the lawn while scratching the surface up enough to provide good seed to soil contact that is essential in germination. One of the drawbacks is that the machine will sometimes bring so much material up that you have to rake it up and haul it away, it can be a lot, depending on your lawn.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.lawn-care-tips.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
Came across this Article by Greg Pierce of Lawn Masters Inc which I suggest you read. Lots of common sense! You can find the Site at http://www.lawn-care-tips.com
Some lawns are started from scratch, like a new home just completed with no lawn at all. Some are existing lawns that are in need of renovation. Some people have nice lawns right now but just want to keep it that way. Regardless of where you are follow these steps and get the lawn you want.
Seeding
Depending on the situation you are in your method of seeding will change. For new lawns with no grass just a lot of dirt or mud, the grade work must be done first. This is done by the contractor or by you if you are good with a tractor and box blade or a tiller and rake. Once the grading is complete and you are happy with the surface as far as smoothness, no holes or low spots, drainage taken care of, etc. then you are ready for the seeding process. The soil must be worked up to fluff it back up to make a good seed bed. Good seed to soil contact is important for good germination. After the soil is prepared you will apply the seed with a spreader, rotary type is best, apply half of the required seed in one direction and the other half in the opposite direction, this gives good coverage of the seed and uniform germination over the lawn. The required amount of seed will be determined by the type of grass you are planting, warm season or cool season grasses. Warm season grasses are planted about 30 days before the temperature turns warm in your area. April through May in the Southeast. Cool season grasses are planted in Fall (Best) or Spring 30 days before the optimum growing conditions exist. September or March in the Southeast. Warm Season grasses like Bermuda and Zoysia are to be planted after the temperatures reach optimum growing condition for Warm Season Grass. This is when it is 80 to 90 degrees. Warm Season grasses are very small seed, only 2-3# per thousand square feet are needed. Cool Season grass seeds are larger and require more pounds per K. 7-8# per thousand square feet are needed for good coverage and thick grass.
Seed can be used in several machines that will power seed the lawn. One machine has several terms, "power seeder", "no till drill seeder" are the most common.This machine has a hopper you pour the selected seed into, the machine will cut grooves in the lawn and drop seed into them in one pass. They do a very good job on lawns that are fairly level. If the lawn has pot holes and roots everywhere the cutters won't make contact with the ground leaving spots not seeded. These machines can be rented for anywhere from $50.00 to $125.00 per day depending on your area, the type of machine and how long you need it for. Another way of seeding is to Hydroseed. This is usually a process hired out since it requires special equipment not usually rented. Hydroseeding is a method used to renovate lawns or establish from scratch. On a lawn that needs thickened up, the mixture of Seed, Fertilizer, and a mulch material made from recycled wood or paper products is sprayed on the lawn. The mixture is dyed blue or green to help the operator see where he has sprayed it, this will turn white in a few days. The benefits of Hydroseeding are quicker germination and usually thicker germination since the seed is soaking in water as it's being done. It is one of the more expensive forms of seeding. A less expensive way to renovate a lawn is to use a Dethatcher followed by broadcasting seed. The Dethatcher will remove thatch and other material from the surface of the lawn while scratching the surface up enough to provide good seed to soil contact that is essential in germination. One of the drawbacks is that the machine will sometimes bring so much material up that you have to rake it up and haul it away, it can be a lot, depending on your lawn.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.lawn-care-tips.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
Gardening - Leaf Blower Vacuums!
gardening
I came across this very interesting Article by Mike Ferrara at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you. It deals with the unusual issue of Leaf Blower Vacuums and you don't need a big garden to want one!
Leaf Blower/Vacs: The Tool for Every Homeowner
by Mike Ferrara
The Tool for Every Homeowner
Toro Ultra BlowerVac
It's a fact of life. Even people who consider themselves a "Lazy Homeowner" need to accomplish things around the house. That's why I look for tools and techniques that make my household chores easier.
One such tool is a leaf blower/vac. No tool shed or garage is complete without one, especially in the fall. This versatile tool may even have you throwing your rake away.
When you get to your local home improvement store, you'll likely be faced with a number of choices. Here are a few things to keep in mind before you buy:
Many people assume that gas powered leaf blowers are more powerful than electric models. In most cases this isn't true. You can find just as much, if not more power in an electric model. And by purchasing an electric model you won't have to worry about messing around with gas and oil.
Look for a leaf blower/vac that is powerful enough to fit your needs. Will you be using the machine only to sweep up a sidewalk or deck, or will you be using it to take on the carpet of leaves your oak trees have left in the back yard? Knowing how you will use the blower/vac will help determine how much power you need. Many models come with variable speed features - perfect if you have both light and heavy-duty chores to tackle. Another key feature to look at is the machine's vacuum capabilities. Is it easy to change from blower to vacuum mode? Is the leaf gathering system easy to maneuver around the yard? Be sure to check out the blower/vac's ability to mulch or shred leaves. Mulching the leaves reduces their volume so they'll take up less space in your garbage bags. Mulching them also allows the leaves to break down faster in your compost pile. Some models reduce up to fifteen bags of leaves down to one.
Keep in mind that your new leaf blower/vac is also great for sweeping off your driveway, clearing out hard to reach spaces between trees and bushes, and cleaning out your rain gutters. It can get rid of cobwebs on your trellis and even air dry your car after it's washed. The possibilities are endless… kind of like your list of fall cleanup tasks.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
gardening
I came across this very interesting Article by Mike Ferrara at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you. It deals with the unusual issue of Leaf Blower Vacuums and you don't need a big garden to want one!
Leaf Blower/Vacs: The Tool for Every Homeowner
by Mike Ferrara
The Tool for Every Homeowner
Toro Ultra BlowerVac
It's a fact of life. Even people who consider themselves a "Lazy Homeowner" need to accomplish things around the house. That's why I look for tools and techniques that make my household chores easier.
One such tool is a leaf blower/vac. No tool shed or garage is complete without one, especially in the fall. This versatile tool may even have you throwing your rake away.
When you get to your local home improvement store, you'll likely be faced with a number of choices. Here are a few things to keep in mind before you buy:
Many people assume that gas powered leaf blowers are more powerful than electric models. In most cases this isn't true. You can find just as much, if not more power in an electric model. And by purchasing an electric model you won't have to worry about messing around with gas and oil.
Look for a leaf blower/vac that is powerful enough to fit your needs. Will you be using the machine only to sweep up a sidewalk or deck, or will you be using it to take on the carpet of leaves your oak trees have left in the back yard? Knowing how you will use the blower/vac will help determine how much power you need. Many models come with variable speed features - perfect if you have both light and heavy-duty chores to tackle. Another key feature to look at is the machine's vacuum capabilities. Is it easy to change from blower to vacuum mode? Is the leaf gathering system easy to maneuver around the yard? Be sure to check out the blower/vac's ability to mulch or shred leaves. Mulching the leaves reduces their volume so they'll take up less space in your garbage bags. Mulching them also allows the leaves to break down faster in your compost pile. Some models reduce up to fifteen bags of leaves down to one.
Keep in mind that your new leaf blower/vac is also great for sweeping off your driveway, clearing out hard to reach spaces between trees and bushes, and cleaning out your rain gutters. It can get rid of cobwebs on your trellis and even air dry your car after it's washed. The possibilities are endless… kind of like your list of fall cleanup tasks.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
gardening
Monday, February 26, 2007
Lawn Care - Pruning Equipment Basics!
gardening
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Pruning at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Having the right tool for the job is the first step to successful pruning. Here is a brief list of pruning tools to help you choose the best cutter for the task.
Hand Pruners
Hand pruners or shears are used to cut stems and branches up to ½ inch in diameter. There are two common types of hand pruners: Bypass Action and Anvil Action.
Bypass action is similar to a pair of scissors. A thin sharp blade passes by (thus the name) a thicker sharp blade. Experts recommend using bypass on green wood because it provides a cleaner, closer cut.
Anvil pruners use a sharp blade that cuts onto a broader, flat blade. Its splitting action makes it great for cutting dry branches and stems.
New Trends
• Ratcheting action pruners – the type that feature gear-driven cutting action is easier on your arm and hand muscles. Look for ratcheting action hand pruners, loppers and pole pruners too.
• The latest innovation in hand pruners is a rotating handle feature. The handle curves your fingers toward your palm as it cuts, reducing hand fatigue.
Quick Tips:
• Pick a hand pruner that fits your hand comfortably. You shouldn’t feel like you’re stretching your hand to either open or close the pruner.
• If you’re left handed look for a product designed to fit your left hand.
• Look for pruners that have a small oil reservoir, so you won’t need to oil them after every use.
Lopping Shears or Loppers
Loppers are pruners with long handles that provide extra reach. You use both hands to operate the loppers, which provides more leverage for cutting branches up to about 2 inches in diameter. Loppers are great for trimming trees and bushes and typically feature one sharp blade for cutting and one flat or curved blade to hold the branch in place.
Pole Pruners
Pole Pruners are made to reach smaller, out-of-the-way tree limbs. The cutting mechanism is similar to a loppers, usually with a hooked or flat blade that holds the branch and a cutting blade to do the trimming. The blades are operated by pulling on a rope. The pole itself is typically either telescoping or in several sections that fit together, allowing you to set the exact length.
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Quick Tip
• Debris can be tricky to control when you’re using a pole pruner. Make sure you’re not standing directly under any tree or bush you are trimming and remember to wear eye protection.
Pruning Saws
If a branch can’t be trimmed with a hand pruner, it’s time to bring out the pruning saw. Pruning saws are great for branches up to about 4 inches in diameter. (For anything larger and you may want to use a tree saw.) A typical pruning saw features a straight or curved blade and will cut on the pull stroke (as you pull back.) The teeth of the saw are set wider apart to keep it from getting caught while plowing through the wood. Look for pruning saws with folding blades that protect the teeth and make them easy to carry around.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
gardening
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Pruning at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Having the right tool for the job is the first step to successful pruning. Here is a brief list of pruning tools to help you choose the best cutter for the task.
Hand Pruners
Hand pruners or shears are used to cut stems and branches up to ½ inch in diameter. There are two common types of hand pruners: Bypass Action and Anvil Action.
Bypass action is similar to a pair of scissors. A thin sharp blade passes by (thus the name) a thicker sharp blade. Experts recommend using bypass on green wood because it provides a cleaner, closer cut.
Anvil pruners use a sharp blade that cuts onto a broader, flat blade. Its splitting action makes it great for cutting dry branches and stems.
New Trends
• Ratcheting action pruners – the type that feature gear-driven cutting action is easier on your arm and hand muscles. Look for ratcheting action hand pruners, loppers and pole pruners too.
• The latest innovation in hand pruners is a rotating handle feature. The handle curves your fingers toward your palm as it cuts, reducing hand fatigue.
Quick Tips:
• Pick a hand pruner that fits your hand comfortably. You shouldn’t feel like you’re stretching your hand to either open or close the pruner.
• If you’re left handed look for a product designed to fit your left hand.
• Look for pruners that have a small oil reservoir, so you won’t need to oil them after every use.
Lopping Shears or Loppers
Loppers are pruners with long handles that provide extra reach. You use both hands to operate the loppers, which provides more leverage for cutting branches up to about 2 inches in diameter. Loppers are great for trimming trees and bushes and typically feature one sharp blade for cutting and one flat or curved blade to hold the branch in place.
Pole Pruners
Pole Pruners are made to reach smaller, out-of-the-way tree limbs. The cutting mechanism is similar to a loppers, usually with a hooked or flat blade that holds the branch and a cutting blade to do the trimming. The blades are operated by pulling on a rope. The pole itself is typically either telescoping or in several sections that fit together, allowing you to set the exact length.
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Quick Tip
• Debris can be tricky to control when you’re using a pole pruner. Make sure you’re not standing directly under any tree or bush you are trimming and remember to wear eye protection.
Pruning Saws
If a branch can’t be trimmed with a hand pruner, it’s time to bring out the pruning saw. Pruning saws are great for branches up to about 4 inches in diameter. (For anything larger and you may want to use a tree saw.) A typical pruning saw features a straight or curved blade and will cut on the pull stroke (as you pull back.) The teeth of the saw are set wider apart to keep it from getting caught while plowing through the wood. Look for pruning saws with folding blades that protect the teeth and make them easy to carry around.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
gardening
Lawn Care- Water Conservation!
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Water Conservation at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Water Conservation
Top Ten Tips for Conserving Water at Home
Efficient watering and common sense saves this precious resource.
Experts estimate that Americans use more than 400 billion gallons of water per day. On average homeowners use 50 to 70% of their water outdoors, sprinkling lawns and gardens. Here are the top ten tips to help conserve water right in your own backyard.
1. Put a layer of mulch around your plants. Mulching helps to retain moisture and prevents evaporation. A generous amount of 3- to 5-inches is best.
2. Install a drip irrigation system around your shrubs, hanging baskets, flower and vegetable gardens. Drip irrigation systems use 50% less water than conventional sprinklers. And, they’re more efficient because they deliver the water slowly and directly to the plant’s root system.
3. Install a home irrigation system with a rain sensor. Many states and local water districts now require rain sensors. Homeowners who have irrigation systems use less water on their lawns and gardens than those who don’t. Watering efficiently, and only when your plants and lawn need it can save a great deal of water. Rain sensors interrupt the watering program if it rains, saving even more water.
4. If you already have a home irrigation system, make sure you’re getting the most out of your timer. New technology makes it easier than ever to program and monitor your watering needs. Consider upgrading your timer. Automatic, programmable timers save more water than mechanical models.
5. Don’t fertilize during hot, dry weather. Applying fertilizer can actually enhance drought problems. When you do feed your lawn and garden use a slow release fertilizer.
6. Raise the blade on your lawn mower. Closely cropped grass requires more water.
7. Recycle your grass clippings back into your lawn by using a mulching mower. You’ll not only conserve water, you’ll save time while mowing.
8. Cut back on routine pruning. Pruning stimulates new growth, and new growth requires more water. Only prune your plants when it wilts or leaves die out.
9. If you use a hose and portable sprinkler, buy a hose end timer to regulate your watering time.
10. Sweep your sidewalks and driveway rather than hosing them down.
y Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Water Conservation at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Water Conservation
Top Ten Tips for Conserving Water at Home
Efficient watering and common sense saves this precious resource.
Experts estimate that Americans use more than 400 billion gallons of water per day. On average homeowners use 50 to 70% of their water outdoors, sprinkling lawns and gardens. Here are the top ten tips to help conserve water right in your own backyard.
1. Put a layer of mulch around your plants. Mulching helps to retain moisture and prevents evaporation. A generous amount of 3- to 5-inches is best.
2. Install a drip irrigation system around your shrubs, hanging baskets, flower and vegetable gardens. Drip irrigation systems use 50% less water than conventional sprinklers. And, they’re more efficient because they deliver the water slowly and directly to the plant’s root system.
3. Install a home irrigation system with a rain sensor. Many states and local water districts now require rain sensors. Homeowners who have irrigation systems use less water on their lawns and gardens than those who don’t. Watering efficiently, and only when your plants and lawn need it can save a great deal of water. Rain sensors interrupt the watering program if it rains, saving even more water.
4. If you already have a home irrigation system, make sure you’re getting the most out of your timer. New technology makes it easier than ever to program and monitor your watering needs. Consider upgrading your timer. Automatic, programmable timers save more water than mechanical models.
5. Don’t fertilize during hot, dry weather. Applying fertilizer can actually enhance drought problems. When you do feed your lawn and garden use a slow release fertilizer.
6. Raise the blade on your lawn mower. Closely cropped grass requires more water.
7. Recycle your grass clippings back into your lawn by using a mulching mower. You’ll not only conserve water, you’ll save time while mowing.
8. Cut back on routine pruning. Pruning stimulates new growth, and new growth requires more water. Only prune your plants when it wilts or leaves die out.
9. If you use a hose and portable sprinkler, buy a hose end timer to regulate your watering time.
10. Sweep your sidewalks and driveway rather than hosing them down.
y Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
Lawn Care - Care for Young Plants!
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Care for Young Plants
Your work to this point will have been in vain if you don't care for the young grass plants as the seeds germinate and begin to grow. The most critical need is to apply water at least twice a day, assuming no rain. If the soil is allowed to dry out, the seedlings won't germinate or will soon wither and die. To maximize the germination rate, soak your lawn on the same day you sow the seeds. On the next day, assuming no rain, lightly sprinkle or mist the lawn for about 5 minutes morning and afternoon. Be sure you have moistened the soil to a depth of one inch. Keep the overseeded lawn moist until the young grass plants are 2 inches tall by repeating a light watering every day after periods without rain. This will take 4 to 6 weeks. When the grass is 2 inches tall, resume normal watering patterns. For tips on setting up a convenient, low-cost watering system, see "Starting a Lawn from Scratch."
If the weather is dry or warm, spread a layer of hay mulch to protect the seed from the drying effects of the sun and wind. Use clean mulching straw that's free of seed. Evenly spread about 100 pounds per 1000 square feet. Avoid putting down a heavy layer that would inhibit grass growth.
Begin mowing once the new grass reaches 2 inches. Use a sharp blade; a dull one may tear up young grass plants. Otherwise, stay off the seeded areas except to fertilize once more. If needed, apply the rest of the fertilizer as recommended by your soil test, or apply a second dose of 1/2 pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet six weeks after germination.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Care for Young Plants
Your work to this point will have been in vain if you don't care for the young grass plants as the seeds germinate and begin to grow. The most critical need is to apply water at least twice a day, assuming no rain. If the soil is allowed to dry out, the seedlings won't germinate or will soon wither and die. To maximize the germination rate, soak your lawn on the same day you sow the seeds. On the next day, assuming no rain, lightly sprinkle or mist the lawn for about 5 minutes morning and afternoon. Be sure you have moistened the soil to a depth of one inch. Keep the overseeded lawn moist until the young grass plants are 2 inches tall by repeating a light watering every day after periods without rain. This will take 4 to 6 weeks. When the grass is 2 inches tall, resume normal watering patterns. For tips on setting up a convenient, low-cost watering system, see "Starting a Lawn from Scratch."
If the weather is dry or warm, spread a layer of hay mulch to protect the seed from the drying effects of the sun and wind. Use clean mulching straw that's free of seed. Evenly spread about 100 pounds per 1000 square feet. Avoid putting down a heavy layer that would inhibit grass growth.
Begin mowing once the new grass reaches 2 inches. Use a sharp blade; a dull one may tear up young grass plants. Otherwise, stay off the seeded areas except to fertilize once more. If needed, apply the rest of the fertilizer as recommended by your soil test, or apply a second dose of 1/2 pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet six weeks after germination.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
Sunday, February 25, 2007
Lawn Care - Prepare the Surface and Overseed!
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Prepare the Surface and Overseed It
In the North, the best time to overseed is in late summer and the early fall, although you may also try this technique in early spring. Starting then gives the young grass plants a better chance to germinate, establish strong roots, and store food needed for a head-start in the spring. In the South, the recommended time to overseed is spring or early summer.
Before you begin, choose the seed that's best for you based on the information in the section, "Choosing the right Grass." Be sure to select one of the new varieties bred to withstand the stresses your lawn faces. Then use the table "How Much Seed to Use When Overseeding" to help you estimate how much seed to buy.
You have several tool options for spreading seed evenly and at the recommended rates. They include your own hands, handheld and walk-behind spreaders, and slit-seeders, which are power machines that cut shallow slits in the soil and sow seed at the same time. Available at many rental stores, slit-seeders are the preferred tool, especially if you were not able to remove all thatch prior to overseeding. (See Appendix I for more details on these tools.)
If you will be spreading seed by hand or with a spreader, first use a thatching rake to roughen the exposed soil to a depth of 1/2 inch. Set the spreader to deliver the seed that's recommended by the seed producer for seeding a new lawn. If you were not able to remove all thatch, sow a little extra seed. Similarly, the higher the percentage of weeds in your lawn, the more seed you should sow. For sowing grass seed, the recommended approach is to apply seed to the edges of the area you are sowing first. Then divide your seed and apply half while walking in one direction, the other half while walking in a perpendicular direction. Spread extra seed on bare areas, lightly cover the seed with a mixture of compost and topsoil; then spread more seed on top.
Finally, follow up by rolling all seeded areas with a water-weighted roller that is one-third full to press the seed into the soil. These steps will help prevent the seed from drying out rapidly and consequently improve germination rates.
If you have a lawn with grass that spreads by stolons (aboveground runners), such as Bermudagrass, St. Augustine, zoysia or buffalograss, you may introduce new grass plants by inserting plugs rather than seed (see "Starting a Lawn from Scratch").
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Prepare the Surface and Overseed It
In the North, the best time to overseed is in late summer and the early fall, although you may also try this technique in early spring. Starting then gives the young grass plants a better chance to germinate, establish strong roots, and store food needed for a head-start in the spring. In the South, the recommended time to overseed is spring or early summer.
Before you begin, choose the seed that's best for you based on the information in the section, "Choosing the right Grass." Be sure to select one of the new varieties bred to withstand the stresses your lawn faces. Then use the table "How Much Seed to Use When Overseeding" to help you estimate how much seed to buy.
You have several tool options for spreading seed evenly and at the recommended rates. They include your own hands, handheld and walk-behind spreaders, and slit-seeders, which are power machines that cut shallow slits in the soil and sow seed at the same time. Available at many rental stores, slit-seeders are the preferred tool, especially if you were not able to remove all thatch prior to overseeding. (See Appendix I for more details on these tools.)
If you will be spreading seed by hand or with a spreader, first use a thatching rake to roughen the exposed soil to a depth of 1/2 inch. Set the spreader to deliver the seed that's recommended by the seed producer for seeding a new lawn. If you were not able to remove all thatch, sow a little extra seed. Similarly, the higher the percentage of weeds in your lawn, the more seed you should sow. For sowing grass seed, the recommended approach is to apply seed to the edges of the area you are sowing first. Then divide your seed and apply half while walking in one direction, the other half while walking in a perpendicular direction. Spread extra seed on bare areas, lightly cover the seed with a mixture of compost and topsoil; then spread more seed on top.
Finally, follow up by rolling all seeded areas with a water-weighted roller that is one-third full to press the seed into the soil. These steps will help prevent the seed from drying out rapidly and consequently improve germination rates.
If you have a lawn with grass that spreads by stolons (aboveground runners), such as Bermudagrass, St. Augustine, zoysia or buffalograss, you may introduce new grass plants by inserting plugs rather than seed (see "Starting a Lawn from Scratch").
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
Saturday, February 24, 2007
Lawn Care- Aeration!
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Aerate Your Lawn
Aeration, also called core cultivation or aerifying, is an important part of any lawn restoration program. It allows grass roots to deeply penetrate the soil, helps fertilizer and organic matter get to roots, allows oxygen to reach the roots, and makes it easier for water to soak into the soil. Simply aerate once in the fall. Avoid aerating during dry summer months because you may damage an already stressed lawn. Also, avoid periods when weed seeds are prevalent, as that could cause weed infestation. There are several types of aerating tools. Manual aerators allow you to do small areas a little at a time and to aerate corners and other tight areas that are difficult to reach with large equipment. You supply the power for these tools by pushing the hollow cylinders or corers into the turf - much as you would push in a spade. The tool cuts a plug, or core, that is extracted and deposited on the lawn the next time you push it into the turf. Small power aerators work similarly and are available at rental stores. Some machines use a rotating tillerlike action that pushes the corers into the soil and extracts small plugs, as the machines pull you forward. These lawn mower-size machines will fit into a full-size station wagon, mini-van, or pickup truck and they require two people to transport them.
Avoid aerators that only poke holes in the lawn without removing plugs because they are of less value to your lawn. The largest aerators will require a truck and several helpers to transport them but do a better job. With these machines, the corers are vertically plunged into the turf to extract a sizable plug. You may opt to have a pro tackle this job.
Aerators penetrate your lawn best when the soil has been moistened by rain or watering; so, unless it rains, water your lawn the day before aerating. When aerating, make several passes in several directions over every square foot of lawn. Next, break up all the plugs extracted by the aerator with the back of a rake or by dragging a metal mesh doormat or section of chain-link fence over the plugs to spread the soil. You can also mix the soil from the plugs with the topdressing you added in Step 5. Then water the lawn thoroughly.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Aerate Your Lawn
Aeration, also called core cultivation or aerifying, is an important part of any lawn restoration program. It allows grass roots to deeply penetrate the soil, helps fertilizer and organic matter get to roots, allows oxygen to reach the roots, and makes it easier for water to soak into the soil. Simply aerate once in the fall. Avoid aerating during dry summer months because you may damage an already stressed lawn. Also, avoid periods when weed seeds are prevalent, as that could cause weed infestation. There are several types of aerating tools. Manual aerators allow you to do small areas a little at a time and to aerate corners and other tight areas that are difficult to reach with large equipment. You supply the power for these tools by pushing the hollow cylinders or corers into the turf - much as you would push in a spade. The tool cuts a plug, or core, that is extracted and deposited on the lawn the next time you push it into the turf. Small power aerators work similarly and are available at rental stores. Some machines use a rotating tillerlike action that pushes the corers into the soil and extracts small plugs, as the machines pull you forward. These lawn mower-size machines will fit into a full-size station wagon, mini-van, or pickup truck and they require two people to transport them.
Avoid aerators that only poke holes in the lawn without removing plugs because they are of less value to your lawn. The largest aerators will require a truck and several helpers to transport them but do a better job. With these machines, the corers are vertically plunged into the turf to extract a sizable plug. You may opt to have a pro tackle this job.
Aerators penetrate your lawn best when the soil has been moistened by rain or watering; so, unless it rains, water your lawn the day before aerating. When aerating, make several passes in several directions over every square foot of lawn. Next, break up all the plugs extracted by the aerator with the back of a rake or by dragging a metal mesh doormat or section of chain-link fence over the plugs to spread the soil. You can also mix the soil from the plugs with the topdressing you added in Step 5. Then water the lawn thoroughly.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
Friday, February 23, 2007
Lawn Care - Add Nutrients - Build Organic Matter and Microbe Numbers!
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Add Nutrients
When restoring a lawn, apply the fertilizer recommended by the results of your soil. Use a slow-release fertilizer, and avoid putting down more fertilizer than you need. Adding too much nitrogen can cause rapid growth and a thinning of plant cell walls, which makes grass more susceptible to disease. The excess fertilizer may also leach and eventually find its way into waterways, polluting them.If you did not test your soil, apply a slow-release fertilizer with an Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium ratio of 3-1-2. Apply about 1/2 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn. (See "Turf Fertilization" for more on fertilizer types.)
Build Organic Matter and Microbe Numbers
The right dose of fertilizer won't help much if your soil does not contain an adequate population of microbes, you need billions of these microscopic organisms per handful. Microbes not only digest grass clippings, dead grass roots, and stems, but they also make their nutrients available to living grass plants.
To have a thriving microbe population, your soil must contain 2 to 5 percent organic material. A topdressing of compost mixed with topsoil followed by aeration will eventually incorporate some organic matter into the soil without disrupting the lawn. When top dressing your lawn, apply about one cubic yard, which is 100 pounds of a 40-60 mix of topsoil and compost, per 1000 square feet. Topsoil is available from most nurseries and landscape centers. Be sure it has a dark, rich brown color and feel and that it has not been diluted with lighter-colored subsoils. Compost can be obtained from several sources. Many towns make compost available to residents at little or no cost. They make compost from the leaves, grass, and brush that residents haul to the dump. The compost should be screened to 1/4- or 3/8-inch particles, and it should be free of in organic materials, such as shreds of plastic leaf bags. Its moisture content should be 30 and 50 percent. Any drier, and the compost releases a lot of dust as it's being worked; any wetter, and the material tends to clump and not mix well with soil. Compost is also available from nurseries and landscape centers. Better yet, make your own.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Add Nutrients
When restoring a lawn, apply the fertilizer recommended by the results of your soil. Use a slow-release fertilizer, and avoid putting down more fertilizer than you need. Adding too much nitrogen can cause rapid growth and a thinning of plant cell walls, which makes grass more susceptible to disease. The excess fertilizer may also leach and eventually find its way into waterways, polluting them.If you did not test your soil, apply a slow-release fertilizer with an Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium ratio of 3-1-2. Apply about 1/2 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn. (See "Turf Fertilization" for more on fertilizer types.)
Build Organic Matter and Microbe Numbers
The right dose of fertilizer won't help much if your soil does not contain an adequate population of microbes, you need billions of these microscopic organisms per handful. Microbes not only digest grass clippings, dead grass roots, and stems, but they also make their nutrients available to living grass plants.
To have a thriving microbe population, your soil must contain 2 to 5 percent organic material. A topdressing of compost mixed with topsoil followed by aeration will eventually incorporate some organic matter into the soil without disrupting the lawn. When top dressing your lawn, apply about one cubic yard, which is 100 pounds of a 40-60 mix of topsoil and compost, per 1000 square feet. Topsoil is available from most nurseries and landscape centers. Be sure it has a dark, rich brown color and feel and that it has not been diluted with lighter-colored subsoils. Compost can be obtained from several sources. Many towns make compost available to residents at little or no cost. They make compost from the leaves, grass, and brush that residents haul to the dump. The compost should be screened to 1/4- or 3/8-inch particles, and it should be free of in organic materials, such as shreds of plastic leaf bags. Its moisture content should be 30 and 50 percent. Any drier, and the compost releases a lot of dust as it's being worked; any wetter, and the material tends to clump and not mix well with soil. Compost is also available from nurseries and landscape centers. Better yet, make your own.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
Thursday, February 22, 2007
Lawn Restoration - Adjust your Soil's pH
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Adjust Your Soil's pH
Before applying anything, it is best to test your own soil or obtain test results from a professional testing service. If your soil test shows that the soil pH is low, add lime according to the test recommendations. If you did your own pH test and thus have no recommendations to go by, use the accompanying charts to determine how much lime to apply. If you're unsure of your test results, be conservative. Too much of an amendment can be as detrimental to your lawn as none at all.
Lime amendments come in various forms, from ground oyster shells to liquids. Agricultural ground limestone is the preferred type because it is readily available and can be safely, easily, and accurately applied with a drop or rotary spreader. There are two types of agricultural ground limestone: dolomitic and calcitic. Both contain calcium carbonate, a grass nutrient, and a neutralizer for acidic soil. Dolomitic limestone contains magnesium, another important nutrient, as well as calcium carbonate. Use dolomitic limestone if your soil is deficient in magnesium. Calcitic limestone does not contain magnesium, making it more appropriate if your soil is already high in magnesium. However, adding dolomitic limestone to soil already high in magnesium has not been shown to cause lawn problems.
For faster results, choose a finely ground limestone. Fine grinds begin to correct the soil pH faster than coarse grinds. Coarsely ground limestone acts slowly and is better suited for use once you have raised your pH to a desirable range. You can tell fine lime from coarse if you understand the information on the package. The higher the percentage of ground lime that passes through the finer sieves, the finer the grind. Sieves are graded by number; the higher the number the smaller the sieve holes. Look for a product stating that 50 percent or more of the ground limestone will pass through a number 100 sieve. Caution: Fine grinds can burn grass. Check instructions on the packaging.
One more thing to keep in mind when buying lime is its relative purity. Liming materials are rated according to their Calcium Carbonate Equivalent (CCE). A CCE rating of 100 is equal to pure calcium carbonate; less than 100 indicates less neutralizing ability than calcium carbonate. Account for the CCE when figuring how much lime to apply to your lawn. If the CCE of the product you purchase is 80 and your soil test recommendations assume a CCE of 100, you will need to increase the recommended application rate by 20 percent.
As you can see from the chart, the more clay and organic content in your soil, the more lime you will need to correct the pH. Sandy soils require less lime to raise pH. If you need to add more that 40 pounds of lime per 1000 square feet to correct your pH, do it in two or more applications. And don't apply lime with fertilizer mixed in the same spreader. The resulting chemical reaction will release the nitrogen you want for your grass into the air. After spreading lime, water the lawn to wash the particles off the grass leaves and into the soil.
To lower the pH, add sulfur according to you soil test recommendations. Sulfur amendments are also available in the form of compounds, such as ammonium sulfate. These compounds can be used in place of elemental sulfur, but they can burn turf if used in excess. See amendment packaging for details on amounts that can be safely applied to turfgrass.
If you are relying on your own test kit and not a professional test, follow the recommendations in the chart. Sulfur acts within one month to lower soil pH. To avoid applying too much, don't try to make your correction in one application. To meet recommended amounts, make several surface applications a few weeks apart and water the grass after each application.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Adjust Your Soil's pH
Before applying anything, it is best to test your own soil or obtain test results from a professional testing service. If your soil test shows that the soil pH is low, add lime according to the test recommendations. If you did your own pH test and thus have no recommendations to go by, use the accompanying charts to determine how much lime to apply. If you're unsure of your test results, be conservative. Too much of an amendment can be as detrimental to your lawn as none at all.
Lime amendments come in various forms, from ground oyster shells to liquids. Agricultural ground limestone is the preferred type because it is readily available and can be safely, easily, and accurately applied with a drop or rotary spreader. There are two types of agricultural ground limestone: dolomitic and calcitic. Both contain calcium carbonate, a grass nutrient, and a neutralizer for acidic soil. Dolomitic limestone contains magnesium, another important nutrient, as well as calcium carbonate. Use dolomitic limestone if your soil is deficient in magnesium. Calcitic limestone does not contain magnesium, making it more appropriate if your soil is already high in magnesium. However, adding dolomitic limestone to soil already high in magnesium has not been shown to cause lawn problems.
For faster results, choose a finely ground limestone. Fine grinds begin to correct the soil pH faster than coarse grinds. Coarsely ground limestone acts slowly and is better suited for use once you have raised your pH to a desirable range. You can tell fine lime from coarse if you understand the information on the package. The higher the percentage of ground lime that passes through the finer sieves, the finer the grind. Sieves are graded by number; the higher the number the smaller the sieve holes. Look for a product stating that 50 percent or more of the ground limestone will pass through a number 100 sieve. Caution: Fine grinds can burn grass. Check instructions on the packaging.
One more thing to keep in mind when buying lime is its relative purity. Liming materials are rated according to their Calcium Carbonate Equivalent (CCE). A CCE rating of 100 is equal to pure calcium carbonate; less than 100 indicates less neutralizing ability than calcium carbonate. Account for the CCE when figuring how much lime to apply to your lawn. If the CCE of the product you purchase is 80 and your soil test recommendations assume a CCE of 100, you will need to increase the recommended application rate by 20 percent.
As you can see from the chart, the more clay and organic content in your soil, the more lime you will need to correct the pH. Sandy soils require less lime to raise pH. If you need to add more that 40 pounds of lime per 1000 square feet to correct your pH, do it in two or more applications. And don't apply lime with fertilizer mixed in the same spreader. The resulting chemical reaction will release the nitrogen you want for your grass into the air. After spreading lime, water the lawn to wash the particles off the grass leaves and into the soil.
To lower the pH, add sulfur according to you soil test recommendations. Sulfur amendments are also available in the form of compounds, such as ammonium sulfate. These compounds can be used in place of elemental sulfur, but they can burn turf if used in excess. See amendment packaging for details on amounts that can be safely applied to turfgrass.
If you are relying on your own test kit and not a professional test, follow the recommendations in the chart. Sulfur acts within one month to lower soil pH. To avoid applying too much, don't try to make your correction in one application. To meet recommended amounts, make several surface applications a few weeks apart and water the grass after each application.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
Wednesday, February 21, 2007
Lawn Restoration - Fill Depressions and Level Bumps!
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Fill Depressions and Level Bumps
While you are dethatching your lawn, check for bumps and depressions. These may have been caused by poor grading, uneven settling, or the decomposition of buried tree stumps, logs, or roots. Mark any irregularities with latex spray paint so you can find them easily when you are ready to level them.
To level small bumps, raise the sod with a sharp spade and remove the necessary amount of soil beneath it. Cut out at least a 2 by 2-foot section of sod. If you lift smaller patches of sod, they will likely dry out and die. While the soil base is exposed, mix in some compost and fertilizer. Watersoak the area using a hose and press the sod back into place. Keep the area watered to prevent lawn brownout.
Slight depressions can be smoothed over by topdressing: applying to the surface a combination of topsoil and compost. A wide landscaping rake is the best tool for this job. When handling larger depressions--those more than an inch or two deep and several square feet in area--raise the sod; fill the depression with a mixture of soil, humus, and fertilizer; replace the sod, and press it in place. Be sure to keep repaired areas moist, or the edges will dry out and turn brown.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
Fill Depressions and Level Bumps
While you are dethatching your lawn, check for bumps and depressions. These may have been caused by poor grading, uneven settling, or the decomposition of buried tree stumps, logs, or roots. Mark any irregularities with latex spray paint so you can find them easily when you are ready to level them.
To level small bumps, raise the sod with a sharp spade and remove the necessary amount of soil beneath it. Cut out at least a 2 by 2-foot section of sod. If you lift smaller patches of sod, they will likely dry out and die. While the soil base is exposed, mix in some compost and fertilizer. Watersoak the area using a hose and press the sod back into place. Keep the area watered to prevent lawn brownout.
Slight depressions can be smoothed over by topdressing: applying to the surface a combination of topsoil and compost. A wide landscaping rake is the best tool for this job. When handling larger depressions--those more than an inch or two deep and several square feet in area--raise the sod; fill the depression with a mixture of soil, humus, and fertilizer; replace the sod, and press it in place. Be sure to keep repaired areas moist, or the edges will dry out and turn brown.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
Tuesday, February 20, 2007
Lawn Restoration - Removing Thatch and Weeds!
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
A restoration allows you to improve your lawn without removing the existing turf. While restoring your lawn is not nearly as labor intensive as removing all of your turf and starting over, it will still require several weekends of work. In this section, each step of a lawn restoration is described, some of which are essential and others optional. In most parts of North America, the best time to begin restoration is late summer or in fall, although adjusting pH and dethatching can be done in the spring to prepare for a fall restoration. You will see some improvement in a restored lawn during the season in which you begin, but you will need two or three growing seasons to see dramatic progress.
Remove Thatch and Weeds
When beginning a lawn restoration, the first step is to remove any thatch buildup--even low levels that would otherwise be acceptable. Unless you can expose the soil between the old grass plants, the steps that follow will have poor results. While you're at it, make a note of weed colonies and remove the worst of them with a grape (grubbing) hoe before proceeding to Step 2.
The best time to dethatch is when your lawn is thriving - not when it's stressed in the heat of summer or cold of winter. To begin, set the height adjustment on your mower to cut the grass about 1 inch high, essentially half its normal mowing height. Mow the entire lawn. Short grass will make dethatching and surface preparation easier. It will also improve seed germination rates because more seed will make contact with the soil and seedlings will have greater exposure to the sun.
The easiest way to remove thatch from a lawn that is over 3,000 square feet is with a power rake, or vertical mower (a machine with vertical instead of horizontal cutting blades), which should be available at rental stores. For smaller lawns or lawns with thin, 1/2- to 1-inch layers of thatch, a manual thatching rake will do a satisfactory job. When using a vertical mower to remove average amounts of thatch and to scarify the soil, set the blades to cut 1/8 to 1/4 inch into the soil. Make several test passes on an inconspicuous area of your lawn to judge how much thatch (and turf) will be removed. If too much or too little is removed, raise or lower the blades accordingly. The spacing between blades can be adjusted on some machines, but this is difficult to do and so is best done by the rental store staff. The blade spacing for Bermudagrass and zoysiagrass is 1 to 2 inches, while the spacing for bahiagrass and St. Augustinegrass is 3 inches. Most rental store owners will know the optimum settings for the grasses grown in your area.
When using a vertical mower to dethatch, make several passes over the lawn in perpendicular directions. It is important to be thorough. Remove the thatch you pull up after each series of passes and add it to your compost pile. When you have finished dethatching, remow your lawn to a height of 1 inch. For more information on manual thatching rakes, power-rakes, or vertical mowers, see "Appendix I."
On a lawn with thick thatch (more than 1-1/2 inches), you may need to partially remove the thatch and allow the lawn to fully recover before the next dethatching session. Removing too much thatch all at once can do more harm than good. The rule of thumb is to remove what you can without tearing up holes of more than a couple of square inches in live turf. This may not be possible on lawns with very thick thatch--more than 2 inches. In that case, your lawn may not be salvageable and may need to be replanted from scratch.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
I came across this very interesting and detailed Article about the problem of Lawn Restoration at http://www.yardcare.com and recommend it to you.
A restoration allows you to improve your lawn without removing the existing turf. While restoring your lawn is not nearly as labor intensive as removing all of your turf and starting over, it will still require several weekends of work. In this section, each step of a lawn restoration is described, some of which are essential and others optional. In most parts of North America, the best time to begin restoration is late summer or in fall, although adjusting pH and dethatching can be done in the spring to prepare for a fall restoration. You will see some improvement in a restored lawn during the season in which you begin, but you will need two or three growing seasons to see dramatic progress.
Remove Thatch and Weeds
When beginning a lawn restoration, the first step is to remove any thatch buildup--even low levels that would otherwise be acceptable. Unless you can expose the soil between the old grass plants, the steps that follow will have poor results. While you're at it, make a note of weed colonies and remove the worst of them with a grape (grubbing) hoe before proceeding to Step 2.
The best time to dethatch is when your lawn is thriving - not when it's stressed in the heat of summer or cold of winter. To begin, set the height adjustment on your mower to cut the grass about 1 inch high, essentially half its normal mowing height. Mow the entire lawn. Short grass will make dethatching and surface preparation easier. It will also improve seed germination rates because more seed will make contact with the soil and seedlings will have greater exposure to the sun.
The easiest way to remove thatch from a lawn that is over 3,000 square feet is with a power rake, or vertical mower (a machine with vertical instead of horizontal cutting blades), which should be available at rental stores. For smaller lawns or lawns with thin, 1/2- to 1-inch layers of thatch, a manual thatching rake will do a satisfactory job. When using a vertical mower to remove average amounts of thatch and to scarify the soil, set the blades to cut 1/8 to 1/4 inch into the soil. Make several test passes on an inconspicuous area of your lawn to judge how much thatch (and turf) will be removed. If too much or too little is removed, raise or lower the blades accordingly. The spacing between blades can be adjusted on some machines, but this is difficult to do and so is best done by the rental store staff. The blade spacing for Bermudagrass and zoysiagrass is 1 to 2 inches, while the spacing for bahiagrass and St. Augustinegrass is 3 inches. Most rental store owners will know the optimum settings for the grasses grown in your area.
When using a vertical mower to dethatch, make several passes over the lawn in perpendicular directions. It is important to be thorough. Remove the thatch you pull up after each series of passes and add it to your compost pile. When you have finished dethatching, remow your lawn to a height of 1 inch. For more information on manual thatching rakes, power-rakes, or vertical mowers, see "Appendix I."
On a lawn with thick thatch (more than 1-1/2 inches), you may need to partially remove the thatch and allow the lawn to fully recover before the next dethatching session. Removing too much thatch all at once can do more harm than good. The rule of thumb is to remove what you can without tearing up holes of more than a couple of square inches in live turf. This may not be possible on lawns with very thick thatch--more than 2 inches. In that case, your lawn may not be salvageable and may need to be replanted from scratch.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source http://www.yardcare.com
Terry Blackburn
lawn care
Monday, February 19, 2007
Lawn Care - Other Decorative Touches!
lawn care
Walkways and driveways may not be considered part of the lawn, but they are close enough to it to make a difference in how your lawn looks. You should choose the right color for your driveway as well as the materials that you want to use to create it. While stone and gravel driveways are nice, you will have to replace the gravel every few years and you will have to weed the driveway in order to keep it looking clean. Sometimes a black paved driveway will look the best as its clean lines will fit with your lawn. You will need to repave every few years, but you will never have to weed.
Your walkways are another interesting feature that you can use to your advantage. Choosing a stone or a brick walkway will add charm to your front lawn. There are hundreds of types of stone available for your to choose from. Pick one that is subtle and does not take away from your lawn.
Adding borders to flowers beds is another decorative touch that people add to their lawns. Borders can be made of stone, brick, wood, metal, or plastic. You will have to remember to keep these borders clean so that insects do not claim them as their territory. You should make sure that you put the border in straight so that it will line up with your house or the lawn.
When deciding on decorative touches, be sure to buy pieces that are complimentary and will add character to your lawn. Too much color will detract from your plants and flowers. Too little color and the lawn will appear washed out.
Be prepared to try different decorating ideas in your lawn until you find the right ones.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn care
Walkways and driveways may not be considered part of the lawn, but they are close enough to it to make a difference in how your lawn looks. You should choose the right color for your driveway as well as the materials that you want to use to create it. While stone and gravel driveways are nice, you will have to replace the gravel every few years and you will have to weed the driveway in order to keep it looking clean. Sometimes a black paved driveway will look the best as its clean lines will fit with your lawn. You will need to repave every few years, but you will never have to weed.
Your walkways are another interesting feature that you can use to your advantage. Choosing a stone or a brick walkway will add charm to your front lawn. There are hundreds of types of stone available for your to choose from. Pick one that is subtle and does not take away from your lawn.
Adding borders to flowers beds is another decorative touch that people add to their lawns. Borders can be made of stone, brick, wood, metal, or plastic. You will have to remember to keep these borders clean so that insects do not claim them as their territory. You should make sure that you put the border in straight so that it will line up with your house or the lawn.
When deciding on decorative touches, be sure to buy pieces that are complimentary and will add character to your lawn. Too much color will detract from your plants and flowers. Too little color and the lawn will appear washed out.
Be prepared to try different decorating ideas in your lawn until you find the right ones.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn care
Saturday, February 17, 2007
Get a FREE 12 Lesson Course on Lawn Care!
lawn care
If you would like to sign up for a FREE 12 Lesson Course on Lawn Care, go to www.lawnsurgeon.com and enrol there! Or e-mail me at info@www.lawnsurgeon.com... Enjoy! terry
lawn care
If you would like to sign up for a FREE 12 Lesson Course on Lawn Care, go to www.lawnsurgeon.com and enrol there! Or e-mail me at info@www.lawnsurgeon.com... Enjoy! terry
lawn care
Lawn Care Solutions - Landscaping!
lawn care
If you want a new look or you are starting from scratch, changing the landscape of your lawn to suit the needs of drainage and other issues, then you should consult a landscaping company. They can do everything including:
Remove old tree stumps and smooth out the lawn
Plant grass
Add drainage trenches
Change the direction of a slope
Create hedges
Move large rocks
Professionally care for your lawn during the different seasons
Trim trees
Turn dark corners into sunny ones
And more
You will be amazed what a good landscaper can do for your lawn. Even if you want to maintain the lawn yourself, starting out with a healthy lawn will help you during your first year.
While landscapers are not cheap, you will be able to find a good one in your town that can help make decisions as to the best ways to take care of your soil to the placement of sculptures and structures to enhance the natural beauty of your lawn.
When looking for a landscaper, you should ask the following questions:
Length of time in the business
Educational background
Number of employees
Cost for projects
Best grass for your lawn
Knowledge of plants and flowers
Whether they use chemical or organic weeding removal methods
How busy they are
These questions will help you access the quality of work you will be receiving. You may want to only hire a landscaper for the aesthetic part of lawn maintenance such as the removal of leaves or when cleaning sculptures. If you want a landscaper’s help on the proper care of your lawn, you should choose a landscaper that feels that same way you do about lawn care or there may be disagreements along the way.
While you should be taking care of the day to day maintenance, a landscaper can help when you have special projects that will need to be completed during the year.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
If you want a new look or you are starting from scratch, changing the landscape of your lawn to suit the needs of drainage and other issues, then you should consult a landscaping company. They can do everything including:
Remove old tree stumps and smooth out the lawn
Plant grass
Add drainage trenches
Change the direction of a slope
Create hedges
Move large rocks
Professionally care for your lawn during the different seasons
Trim trees
Turn dark corners into sunny ones
And more
You will be amazed what a good landscaper can do for your lawn. Even if you want to maintain the lawn yourself, starting out with a healthy lawn will help you during your first year.
While landscapers are not cheap, you will be able to find a good one in your town that can help make decisions as to the best ways to take care of your soil to the placement of sculptures and structures to enhance the natural beauty of your lawn.
When looking for a landscaper, you should ask the following questions:
Length of time in the business
Educational background
Number of employees
Cost for projects
Best grass for your lawn
Knowledge of plants and flowers
Whether they use chemical or organic weeding removal methods
How busy they are
These questions will help you access the quality of work you will be receiving. You may want to only hire a landscaper for the aesthetic part of lawn maintenance such as the removal of leaves or when cleaning sculptures. If you want a landscaper’s help on the proper care of your lawn, you should choose a landscaper that feels that same way you do about lawn care or there may be disagreements along the way.
While you should be taking care of the day to day maintenance, a landscaper can help when you have special projects that will need to be completed during the year.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
Friday, February 16, 2007
Get a FREE 12 Lesson Course on Lawn Care!
lawn care
If you would like to sign up for a FREE 12 Lesson Course on Lawn Care, go to www.lawnsurgeon.com and enrol there! Or e-mail me at info@www.lawnsurgeon.com... Enjoy! terry
lawn care
If you would like to sign up for a FREE 12 Lesson Course on Lawn Care, go to www.lawnsurgeon.com and enrol there! Or e-mail me at info@www.lawnsurgeon.com... Enjoy! terry
lawn care
Lawn Care - All about Lawn Sculptures!
lawn care
LAWN SCULPTURES
Choosing a lawn sculpture
Lawn sculptures can be very attractive pieces of art for your lawn. There are many different varieties of sculpture you can choose from including:
Water fountains
Bird baths
Statues
Figurines
Pillars
Of course, unless you are an artist or happen to know one, you will have to order a sculpture from a factory or lawn sculpture supply shop.
While some sculptures can be expensive, you should create a budget and not go over when shopping. You will be amazed at the variety you will have to choose from. When shopping for a sculpture, you should keep in mind the size of your lawn, the types of plants and flowers you already have, and the types you want to plant for the fall or spring weather. You should bring a picture or two of your lawn in order to have a fresh image of it in your mind.
There are many ways to decorate using sculpture:
Make it the focal point of a certain area of your lawn
Surround it with flowers and plants so that it blends with the rest of the lawn
Group one or two sculptures together
Place bird baths and fountains in shaded areas
Use smaller sculptures near driveways and walkways
Vary the use of colored sculptures and concrete sculptures
Lawn Sculpture Maintenance
Caring for your lawn sculptures will depend on the materials they are made from. Lawn sculptures can be made of the following:
Stone
Concrete
Metal
Plastic
Wood
If choosing sculptures that will need to be stored away during the winter, you should be able to lift them easily or be able to cover them. Otherwise they may be ruined.
During the wintertime, you should look at your sculptures to see if there are any cracks or broken pieces caused by the rain or the snow.
While most lawn sculptures should adopt a certain ‘weathered look’, they should not be falling apart on your property.
Plastic and metal sculptures are usually the easiest to clean because they can be wiped off after a rain storm. Other sculptures will need extra care.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn care
LAWN SCULPTURES
Choosing a lawn sculpture
Lawn sculptures can be very attractive pieces of art for your lawn. There are many different varieties of sculpture you can choose from including:
Water fountains
Bird baths
Statues
Figurines
Pillars
Of course, unless you are an artist or happen to know one, you will have to order a sculpture from a factory or lawn sculpture supply shop.
While some sculptures can be expensive, you should create a budget and not go over when shopping. You will be amazed at the variety you will have to choose from. When shopping for a sculpture, you should keep in mind the size of your lawn, the types of plants and flowers you already have, and the types you want to plant for the fall or spring weather. You should bring a picture or two of your lawn in order to have a fresh image of it in your mind.
There are many ways to decorate using sculpture:
Make it the focal point of a certain area of your lawn
Surround it with flowers and plants so that it blends with the rest of the lawn
Group one or two sculptures together
Place bird baths and fountains in shaded areas
Use smaller sculptures near driveways and walkways
Vary the use of colored sculptures and concrete sculptures
Lawn Sculpture Maintenance
Caring for your lawn sculptures will depend on the materials they are made from. Lawn sculptures can be made of the following:
Stone
Concrete
Metal
Plastic
Wood
If choosing sculptures that will need to be stored away during the winter, you should be able to lift them easily or be able to cover them. Otherwise they may be ruined.
During the wintertime, you should look at your sculptures to see if there are any cracks or broken pieces caused by the rain or the snow.
While most lawn sculptures should adopt a certain ‘weathered look’, they should not be falling apart on your property.
Plastic and metal sculptures are usually the easiest to clean because they can be wiped off after a rain storm. Other sculptures will need extra care.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn care
Thursday, February 15, 2007
Get a FREE 12 Lesson Course on Lawn Care!
lawn care
If you would like to sign up for a FREE 12 Lesson Course on Lawn Care, go to www.lawnsurgeon.com and enrol there! Or e-mail me at info@www.lawnsurgeon.com... Enjoy! terry
lawn care
If you would like to sign up for a FREE 12 Lesson Course on Lawn Care, go to www.lawnsurgeon.com and enrol there! Or e-mail me at info@www.lawnsurgeon.com... Enjoy! terry
lawn care
Gardening- How to Plant Hedges!
gardening
HEDGES
If you want to plant a hedge on the side or backyard, you will need the following equipment:
Shovel
Tape measure
Rope and stakes
Scissors
Hammer
Steps to planting a hedge
The first step is to create a straight line which you will follow to ensure that your hedge is straight. There is nothing sloppier on a great looking lawn than a crooked hedge. Once you have measured the length of your hedge, use the rope and stakes to mark your line. Make sure you do not create a hedge that sits right on your property line. Give yourself two to three feet of room between you and your neighbor. Use the hammer to secure the stakes into the ground.
The next step is to mark where you want your hedges. You should leave a foot between each hedge in order to give them room to grow. Aerate your soil if necessary and clear away all grass and weeds from the soil.
Measure the length of the roots of the hedge. They will be wrapped up in a ball, but you can measure from the top of the ball to the bottom. This will tell you how big to dig the hole. You should dig twice as far as the root length. (if the root is 6 inches, you should dig at least 12 inches).
Begin digging. After you are done, you can place the hedge into the ground. Make sure you fill the hole up with enough soil. Make sure the hedge is secure before moving on the next one.
You should monitor your hedges during the first few days in order to make sure they are getting enough water, the soil is not eroding at the base, and the hedges are not falling over.
If you are looking for a privacy hedge, then you will have to buy hedges that are larger. Plant them the same way or hire a landscaper if they are too heavy to move.
Hedges will need to be trimmed and should always appear straight. While you can create a sloping hedge, you will have to be consistent with the slope so that it looks intentional and does not looking like a trimming mistake. All too often, people who have a great lawn do not pay enough attention to their hedges. This can ruin the look you have worked so hard to create.
Hedges can take years to grow and like all other plants on your lawn, will need care every once in a while.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
gardening
HEDGES
If you want to plant a hedge on the side or backyard, you will need the following equipment:
Shovel
Tape measure
Rope and stakes
Scissors
Hammer
Steps to planting a hedge
The first step is to create a straight line which you will follow to ensure that your hedge is straight. There is nothing sloppier on a great looking lawn than a crooked hedge. Once you have measured the length of your hedge, use the rope and stakes to mark your line. Make sure you do not create a hedge that sits right on your property line. Give yourself two to three feet of room between you and your neighbor. Use the hammer to secure the stakes into the ground.
The next step is to mark where you want your hedges. You should leave a foot between each hedge in order to give them room to grow. Aerate your soil if necessary and clear away all grass and weeds from the soil.
Measure the length of the roots of the hedge. They will be wrapped up in a ball, but you can measure from the top of the ball to the bottom. This will tell you how big to dig the hole. You should dig twice as far as the root length. (if the root is 6 inches, you should dig at least 12 inches).
Begin digging. After you are done, you can place the hedge into the ground. Make sure you fill the hole up with enough soil. Make sure the hedge is secure before moving on the next one.
You should monitor your hedges during the first few days in order to make sure they are getting enough water, the soil is not eroding at the base, and the hedges are not falling over.
If you are looking for a privacy hedge, then you will have to buy hedges that are larger. Plant them the same way or hire a landscaper if they are too heavy to move.
Hedges will need to be trimmed and should always appear straight. While you can create a sloping hedge, you will have to be consistent with the slope so that it looks intentional and does not looking like a trimming mistake. All too often, people who have a great lawn do not pay enough attention to their hedges. This can ruin the look you have worked so hard to create.
Hedges can take years to grow and like all other plants on your lawn, will need care every once in a while.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
gardening
Wednesday, February 14, 2007
Lawn Care - Organic Fences!
lawn care
FENCES
If you want to block out the world, or at least your noisy neighbors, you should consider building a fence or putting up a hedge. This will give you privacy, reduce noise, and looks very attractive for most lawns. There are many different types of fencing. These include:
Wooden fencing
Chain link fencing
Stone fencing
Bamboo fencing
Brick fencing
Hedge fencing
Many people who want their lawn to appear as natural as possible usually opt for more organic fencing and will use plants instead of brick or stone. And, yes, even though wood is organic, many people associate it with non organic materials because of the weight and height of the structures.
The type of fence you choose to build should reflect your personal style as well as accomplish your needs. If you are looking for privacy, then you should choose a fence that people can neither see through or over. Many fences are at least six feet tall.
Organic Fencing
If you choose an organic fence made from bamboo, evergreen trees, or hedges which are made from a variety of trees, you will have to maintain these fences as they are alive.
Bamboo fencing is very dense and will grow very quickly. It is attractive to look at, but can be expensive depending on how much you will need. Bamboo needs to be trimmed back at least once a year in order to keep it from fall over. You will have to monitor the bamboo to make sure that the stalks are still standing especially after a rain storm or heavy wind. Though durable, bamboo can still fall over. This is a great choice if you have rock gardens, smaller lawn, and want to create a retreat-like quality.
Evergreen trees are another popular form of organic fencing. You can line up the trees so that as they grow, they will fill in the spaces with their lush branches. Evergreen trees are in bloom year round, which add to the beauty of your lawn each season.
There is one major drawback to using evergreen trees. The cost of planting mature trees that will offer instant privacy are very expensive. Depending on the number you will need, you may have to buy younger trees. This means that you will not feel complete privacy for a few years.
Hedges are similar to evergreen in trees in that they will take a few years to grow. Hedges are also more labor intensive than bamboo and Evergreen trees. In order to maintain their shape, you will have to trim them every few months. This is may be more difficult than it seems. If you want clean lines, you should consider hiring an expert or you may end up with sloping hedges.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn care
FENCES
If you want to block out the world, or at least your noisy neighbors, you should consider building a fence or putting up a hedge. This will give you privacy, reduce noise, and looks very attractive for most lawns. There are many different types of fencing. These include:
Wooden fencing
Chain link fencing
Stone fencing
Bamboo fencing
Brick fencing
Hedge fencing
Many people who want their lawn to appear as natural as possible usually opt for more organic fencing and will use plants instead of brick or stone. And, yes, even though wood is organic, many people associate it with non organic materials because of the weight and height of the structures.
The type of fence you choose to build should reflect your personal style as well as accomplish your needs. If you are looking for privacy, then you should choose a fence that people can neither see through or over. Many fences are at least six feet tall.
Organic Fencing
If you choose an organic fence made from bamboo, evergreen trees, or hedges which are made from a variety of trees, you will have to maintain these fences as they are alive.
Bamboo fencing is very dense and will grow very quickly. It is attractive to look at, but can be expensive depending on how much you will need. Bamboo needs to be trimmed back at least once a year in order to keep it from fall over. You will have to monitor the bamboo to make sure that the stalks are still standing especially after a rain storm or heavy wind. Though durable, bamboo can still fall over. This is a great choice if you have rock gardens, smaller lawn, and want to create a retreat-like quality.
Evergreen trees are another popular form of organic fencing. You can line up the trees so that as they grow, they will fill in the spaces with their lush branches. Evergreen trees are in bloom year round, which add to the beauty of your lawn each season.
There is one major drawback to using evergreen trees. The cost of planting mature trees that will offer instant privacy are very expensive. Depending on the number you will need, you may have to buy younger trees. This means that you will not feel complete privacy for a few years.
Hedges are similar to evergreen in trees in that they will take a few years to grow. Hedges are also more labor intensive than bamboo and Evergreen trees. In order to maintain their shape, you will have to trim them every few months. This is may be more difficult than it seems. If you want clean lines, you should consider hiring an expert or you may end up with sloping hedges.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn care
Tuesday, February 13, 2007
Lawn Care - Inorganic Fences!
lawn care
Inorganic fencing is just as easy to maintain as organic fencing, but can be more dramatic and offer instant privacy. Inorganic fencing includes: wooden fencing (organic material, inorganic feel), stone fencing, brick fencing, and chain link fencing. There are plastic fences out there, but they aren’t usually used by those who want an elegant lawn.
Wooden fencing includes picket fences, tall flat topped fences, or short clapboard fences. These styles are country-like in appearance and can be bought in pre-made sections.
While these fences can offer instant privacy, they may be difficult to maintain as they will require yearly maintenance including paint or stain, water protectant clear coat, and replacing pieces that may fall off or break during the winter season. But wooden fencing can give your lawn charm, and if this is your purpose for a fence, then a little extra work won’t harm you.
Stone fencing is usually lower than other forms of fencing and is more for decorative purposes than for noise reduction. You can add color and establish your lawn’s parameters with a stone fence.
During the year, you will have to weed around the stone fence in order to keep it clean and you may need to have section of it repaired every few years depending on how the weather is. Other than that, stone fences are low-maintenance and attractive.
Brick fencing will give your lawn a garden-like feel that will keep nosey neighbors out while providing additional privacy as well. This type of fencing should be installed by professional brick layers who will be able to guarantee a straight fence.
There are few drawbacks to a solid brick fence. Cost is one of them and weeding around the fence is another. Since keeping a brick clean is very important because its clean lines, you will have to make sure the area is weed-free and clean at all times.
Good old chain-link fencing. It’s durable, inexpensive, and will give your lawn the ‘lived-in’ look. No, seriously, this type of fencing is not recommended for those who want to show their lawns off to the neighbors. But if you have dogs or small children, you may want to consider this type of fencing at least until your children are old enough to know not to leave the yard. Many people use chain-link fencing in their backyards and choose another type of fencing for the front.
As you can see, you have many options to choose from when closing off your lawn and giving yourself more privacy.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
Inorganic fencing is just as easy to maintain as organic fencing, but can be more dramatic and offer instant privacy. Inorganic fencing includes: wooden fencing (organic material, inorganic feel), stone fencing, brick fencing, and chain link fencing. There are plastic fences out there, but they aren’t usually used by those who want an elegant lawn.
Wooden fencing includes picket fences, tall flat topped fences, or short clapboard fences. These styles are country-like in appearance and can be bought in pre-made sections.
While these fences can offer instant privacy, they may be difficult to maintain as they will require yearly maintenance including paint or stain, water protectant clear coat, and replacing pieces that may fall off or break during the winter season. But wooden fencing can give your lawn charm, and if this is your purpose for a fence, then a little extra work won’t harm you.
Stone fencing is usually lower than other forms of fencing and is more for decorative purposes than for noise reduction. You can add color and establish your lawn’s parameters with a stone fence.
During the year, you will have to weed around the stone fence in order to keep it clean and you may need to have section of it repaired every few years depending on how the weather is. Other than that, stone fences are low-maintenance and attractive.
Brick fencing will give your lawn a garden-like feel that will keep nosey neighbors out while providing additional privacy as well. This type of fencing should be installed by professional brick layers who will be able to guarantee a straight fence.
There are few drawbacks to a solid brick fence. Cost is one of them and weeding around the fence is another. Since keeping a brick clean is very important because its clean lines, you will have to make sure the area is weed-free and clean at all times.
Good old chain-link fencing. It’s durable, inexpensive, and will give your lawn the ‘lived-in’ look. No, seriously, this type of fencing is not recommended for those who want to show their lawns off to the neighbors. But if you have dogs or small children, you may want to consider this type of fencing at least until your children are old enough to know not to leave the yard. Many people use chain-link fencing in their backyards and choose another type of fencing for the front.
As you can see, you have many options to choose from when closing off your lawn and giving yourself more privacy.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
Monday, February 12, 2007
Lawn Care - Decorating Your Lawn with Shrubs!
lawn care
Shrubs
When most people think of shrubs, they think of green bushes or low lying plants. But there are many different kinds of shrubs. Some of the most common include:
Forsythia
Lilac
Rhodendrons
Mountain Laurel
These shrubs are very colorful, yet hearty. They will add color and variety to your lawn, and create a contrast between the grass and flowers to create a harmonious and pleasing aspect.
When planting shrubs, you should prepare the area as you would a flower bed. You will be buying small shrubs that will grow over time. Planting is the same as for flowers. Make sure you are packing the soil firmly. For certain types of shrubs, you may need to add fertilizers and nutrients to the soil.
When deciding where to place your shrubs, you should keep them close to your house, near a pile of rocks, or group them together. Lone shrubs make look out of place on the lawn.
Shrubs are used to accent existing plants, trees, and rocks on the lawn. Use them for that extra burst of color.
As with planting any type of greenery, you should properly prepare the soil first. This will reduce your weed population, allow the new plants to adapt to their new surroundings, and will also give your lawn a clean, polished look.
Planting trees and shrubs will add a lot to your lawn. It will complete the look you are going for and will establish your property as a growing lawn. You will be very pleased with the results.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
Shrubs
When most people think of shrubs, they think of green bushes or low lying plants. But there are many different kinds of shrubs. Some of the most common include:
Forsythia
Lilac
Rhodendrons
Mountain Laurel
These shrubs are very colorful, yet hearty. They will add color and variety to your lawn, and create a contrast between the grass and flowers to create a harmonious and pleasing aspect.
When planting shrubs, you should prepare the area as you would a flower bed. You will be buying small shrubs that will grow over time. Planting is the same as for flowers. Make sure you are packing the soil firmly. For certain types of shrubs, you may need to add fertilizers and nutrients to the soil.
When deciding where to place your shrubs, you should keep them close to your house, near a pile of rocks, or group them together. Lone shrubs make look out of place on the lawn.
Shrubs are used to accent existing plants, trees, and rocks on the lawn. Use them for that extra burst of color.
As with planting any type of greenery, you should properly prepare the soil first. This will reduce your weed population, allow the new plants to adapt to their new surroundings, and will also give your lawn a clean, polished look.
Planting trees and shrubs will add a lot to your lawn. It will complete the look you are going for and will establish your property as a growing lawn. You will be very pleased with the results.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
Sunday, February 11, 2007
Lawn Care - Decorating Your Lawn With Trees!
lawn care
TREES
What lawn is complete without trees and shrubs? They add color, character, and a sense of history all year long. By planting the right trees and shrubs, you can enjoy different trees each season.
Trees
When deciding where to plant young trees you should:
Decide which older trees will be staying and which ones will not Choose the right areas for the trees Try to incorporate shrubs into the landscape Decide where you want or need the shade Group trees when necessary
Planting the trees and shrubs is easier than deciding where they should go in many cases. You will have to be aware of your surroundings. Do not plant trees that are going to grow very large underneath wires, near utility poles, or too close to your home. You will run into problems later on. Also, if you are planting trees that will drip sap or have sticky flowers, you not plant them near your driveway.
After you have moved into your new how, you should survey the lawn to see if there are older trees that should be taken down. Trees that appear dead should first be inspected by a landscaper and then removed in order to protect those who will be using the lawn. You can choose to replant young trees where the old trees stood, or you can totally change the landscaping and come up with your own creative ideas.
You should research the trees and shrubs before buying them. Some trees, like oak trees are wonderful to have on the lawn, but over time their roots may emerge from the ground. If you plan on living in your home for a long time, you may not want this feature. Buying trees as young as possible will eliminate this problem, but you may have to wait twenty or thirty years before you will truly be able to enjoy them.
Many people enjoy grouping trees of the same kind together. This creates a more woodsy or rustic look. Your landscaper will be able to tell you which trees should be grouped together. Many times birch and popular trees are grouped together because their branches are higher and their trunks are smaller than pine or oak trees.
Trees can also be used for privacy. Buying evergreen trees and using them on the sides or the back of your home will act as a natural fence. You should buy these trees when they are mature and already standing about five or six feet tall. This will give you automatic privacy. For those who want to keep the landscape as natural as possible, but who also want privacy from their neighbors, evergreen trees are the perfect substitute for a wooden or metal fence.
After buying your trees, you should clear the areas where you want to plant them. You should plant two and three year old trees between the months of December and March. You will need to dig a hole using a shovel or a planting bar. This is a device that will make digging into the dirt a lot easier because it has a pointed end. You should remove about a foot and a half to two feet of dirt. Place the tree into the hole and spread out the roots. If they do not fit properly, then you may need to dig a little more.
After placing the tree, you should cover the hole with dirt and pack it firmly so that the tree does not fall over. Care for the tree as per the instructions.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
TREES
What lawn is complete without trees and shrubs? They add color, character, and a sense of history all year long. By planting the right trees and shrubs, you can enjoy different trees each season.
Trees
When deciding where to plant young trees you should:
Decide which older trees will be staying and which ones will not Choose the right areas for the trees Try to incorporate shrubs into the landscape Decide where you want or need the shade Group trees when necessary
Planting the trees and shrubs is easier than deciding where they should go in many cases. You will have to be aware of your surroundings. Do not plant trees that are going to grow very large underneath wires, near utility poles, or too close to your home. You will run into problems later on. Also, if you are planting trees that will drip sap or have sticky flowers, you not plant them near your driveway.
After you have moved into your new how, you should survey the lawn to see if there are older trees that should be taken down. Trees that appear dead should first be inspected by a landscaper and then removed in order to protect those who will be using the lawn. You can choose to replant young trees where the old trees stood, or you can totally change the landscaping and come up with your own creative ideas.
You should research the trees and shrubs before buying them. Some trees, like oak trees are wonderful to have on the lawn, but over time their roots may emerge from the ground. If you plan on living in your home for a long time, you may not want this feature. Buying trees as young as possible will eliminate this problem, but you may have to wait twenty or thirty years before you will truly be able to enjoy them.
Many people enjoy grouping trees of the same kind together. This creates a more woodsy or rustic look. Your landscaper will be able to tell you which trees should be grouped together. Many times birch and popular trees are grouped together because their branches are higher and their trunks are smaller than pine or oak trees.
Trees can also be used for privacy. Buying evergreen trees and using them on the sides or the back of your home will act as a natural fence. You should buy these trees when they are mature and already standing about five or six feet tall. This will give you automatic privacy. For those who want to keep the landscape as natural as possible, but who also want privacy from their neighbors, evergreen trees are the perfect substitute for a wooden or metal fence.
After buying your trees, you should clear the areas where you want to plant them. You should plant two and three year old trees between the months of December and March. You will need to dig a hole using a shovel or a planting bar. This is a device that will make digging into the dirt a lot easier because it has a pointed end. You should remove about a foot and a half to two feet of dirt. Place the tree into the hole and spread out the roots. If they do not fit properly, then you may need to dig a little more.
After placing the tree, you should cover the hole with dirt and pack it firmly so that the tree does not fall over. Care for the tree as per the instructions.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
Saturday, February 10, 2007
Lawn Care - Decorating Your Lawn with Rock Gardens!
lawn care
Rock Gardens
If you do not want to create a flower garden, you can create a rock garden instead. Rock gardens may seem simple to set-up, but you will still have to weed and keep other debris from ruining the look of the garden. If you have rocky gardens, you will benefit from a rock garden.
In order to create a rock garden, you will need:
Rocks
Rake
Sand or mulch
Vine plants
When designing you garden, you should draw a map that should include the size of the garden, and placement of the rocks and other items. When building your rock garden, you should follow these simple instructions:
Clear the area of rocks, weeds, grass and other debris that may be on the ground. You can choose to till the soil or just let it be. You will have to wed the area even after you place the rocks.
Find rocks of different sizes. You can find them in your yard, in someone else’s yard, at the park, or while traveling. You should use a variety of different rocks that are also different colors. If you want, you can buy different colored gravel and create a small Zen-like rock garden.
Place your rocks the way you want in the area.
Add mulch if you will be planting vines or plants. Hearty vines and plants will look great in your rock garden.
Clear your rock garden of weeds as soon as you see growth. This will make clearing them easier.
Rock gardens can be fun, whimsical, and creative. You can build a rock garden that will also serve as a drainage system for your lawn. A dry creek bed will make the perfect rock garden and also keep water from clogging the soil in your yard. Build the drainage system at the bottom of a slope and dig a small trench. You can decorate the trench with rocks as well.
If you do not like traditional landscaping, you can try a rock garden. They are inexpensive and easy to set up. You will have to weed, but that’s about it. Many people who do not want a lawn that they have to take care of every day will create large rock gardens. They are decorative and functional at the same time.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn care
Rock Gardens
If you do not want to create a flower garden, you can create a rock garden instead. Rock gardens may seem simple to set-up, but you will still have to weed and keep other debris from ruining the look of the garden. If you have rocky gardens, you will benefit from a rock garden.
In order to create a rock garden, you will need:
Rocks
Rake
Sand or mulch
Vine plants
When designing you garden, you should draw a map that should include the size of the garden, and placement of the rocks and other items. When building your rock garden, you should follow these simple instructions:
Clear the area of rocks, weeds, grass and other debris that may be on the ground. You can choose to till the soil or just let it be. You will have to wed the area even after you place the rocks.
Find rocks of different sizes. You can find them in your yard, in someone else’s yard, at the park, or while traveling. You should use a variety of different rocks that are also different colors. If you want, you can buy different colored gravel and create a small Zen-like rock garden.
Place your rocks the way you want in the area.
Add mulch if you will be planting vines or plants. Hearty vines and plants will look great in your rock garden.
Clear your rock garden of weeds as soon as you see growth. This will make clearing them easier.
Rock gardens can be fun, whimsical, and creative. You can build a rock garden that will also serve as a drainage system for your lawn. A dry creek bed will make the perfect rock garden and also keep water from clogging the soil in your yard. Build the drainage system at the bottom of a slope and dig a small trench. You can decorate the trench with rocks as well.
If you do not like traditional landscaping, you can try a rock garden. They are inexpensive and easy to set up. You will have to weed, but that’s about it. Many people who do not want a lawn that they have to take care of every day will create large rock gardens. They are decorative and functional at the same time.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn care
Friday, February 09, 2007
Lawn Care - Decorating Your Lawn With Flower Beds!
lawn care
FLOWER BEDS
Flower beds are a great way to showcase your flowers, add vibrant color to your lawn, and keep flowers in certain parts of your lawn. Flower beds can be placed almost anywhere on your lawn. Some of the most common places include:
Along walkways
Along front of house
Side of house
In the center of the lawn
In the backyard
In planters
Around rocks
Any of these places will work and many people will have three or four flower beds depending on how large their yard is. When building a flower bed, you will need the following materials and equipment:
Small shovel
Rake
Trowel
String
Small posts
Mulch
Landscape fabric
Fertilizer
You should aerate the soil and add fertilizer before planting your flowers. You should also give some thought as to the color scheme you want to create. Even though it may not be perfect as flowers can change their growth patterns, you should be able to group colors that you think will work for your lawn easily.
Once you have determined how your flowers should be planted, you should prepare the soil and plant them.
Choose mulch that is darker because this will make the color of the flowers stand out even more.
Flower beds can be changed each season in order to ensure flowers that will bloom each year. Perennial flowers will bloom in the spring, while annual flowers will bloom in the fall.
Using different decorating techniques such as planting flower beds, you will give your lawn many dimensions. This will add character and pizzazz.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn care
FLOWER BEDS
Flower beds are a great way to showcase your flowers, add vibrant color to your lawn, and keep flowers in certain parts of your lawn. Flower beds can be placed almost anywhere on your lawn. Some of the most common places include:
Along walkways
Along front of house
Side of house
In the center of the lawn
In the backyard
In planters
Around rocks
Any of these places will work and many people will have three or four flower beds depending on how large their yard is. When building a flower bed, you will need the following materials and equipment:
Small shovel
Rake
Trowel
String
Small posts
Mulch
Landscape fabric
Fertilizer
You should aerate the soil and add fertilizer before planting your flowers. You should also give some thought as to the color scheme you want to create. Even though it may not be perfect as flowers can change their growth patterns, you should be able to group colors that you think will work for your lawn easily.
Once you have determined how your flowers should be planted, you should prepare the soil and plant them.
Choose mulch that is darker because this will make the color of the flowers stand out even more.
Flower beds can be changed each season in order to ensure flowers that will bloom each year. Perennial flowers will bloom in the spring, while annual flowers will bloom in the fall.
Using different decorating techniques such as planting flower beds, you will give your lawn many dimensions. This will add character and pizzazz.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn care
Thursday, February 08, 2007
Lawn Care - Using Mulch for Decorative Purposes!
lawn care
There are many ways to use mulch for decorative purposes.
Trees – If you have a group of trees on your lawn that you want to give a little class to, you can add mulch. Choose darker mulch for lighter trees, and lighter shades for darker trees.
The first step is to create a shape around the trees so that you will know where to place the mulch. You can do this using string or wood blocks. You should create a shape that is not a perfect circle, but one that will showcase your trees. Take your time to get the shape right. You can decide how far from the trees you will want to go or how close.
After creating a shape, you will need to rake inside the area and remove all grass and weeds. This will give you a clean work area. You should put down landscape fabric or black plastic before putting down the mulch. This will help you control the weeds. Pulling weeds from mulch is not fun and can take a long time. Try to reduce the weeds as much as possible.
Now it is time to put down the mulch. Spread an even amount of mulch into the shape you have created with a rake and make sure you cover it completely. Maintain the mulch as you would any other type of mulch.
Flower beds – When creating a flower bed, you should make sure that you aerate the soil first and then use Soil Solarization to kill all weed seeds.
You can choose to plant your flowers at this point, or you can wait until you have put down your landscape fabric. After planting, place a layer of mulch on the bed.
Rocks – Placing mulch around rocks can give your lawn a clean, polished look that will cultivate vine growth. Planting creeping vines and other vines around rocks will give your lawn a rustic, country look that will last for a long time.
You do not have to use landscape fabric, but you should be prepared to weed the area.
Mulch should be replaced every few months. You should keep the mulch clean and weed the areas before the weed grow too big. Each year, you should till the soil to get rid of debris and weeds that have not had a chance to grow.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
There are many ways to use mulch for decorative purposes.
Trees – If you have a group of trees on your lawn that you want to give a little class to, you can add mulch. Choose darker mulch for lighter trees, and lighter shades for darker trees.
The first step is to create a shape around the trees so that you will know where to place the mulch. You can do this using string or wood blocks. You should create a shape that is not a perfect circle, but one that will showcase your trees. Take your time to get the shape right. You can decide how far from the trees you will want to go or how close.
After creating a shape, you will need to rake inside the area and remove all grass and weeds. This will give you a clean work area. You should put down landscape fabric or black plastic before putting down the mulch. This will help you control the weeds. Pulling weeds from mulch is not fun and can take a long time. Try to reduce the weeds as much as possible.
Now it is time to put down the mulch. Spread an even amount of mulch into the shape you have created with a rake and make sure you cover it completely. Maintain the mulch as you would any other type of mulch.
Flower beds – When creating a flower bed, you should make sure that you aerate the soil first and then use Soil Solarization to kill all weed seeds.
You can choose to plant your flowers at this point, or you can wait until you have put down your landscape fabric. After planting, place a layer of mulch on the bed.
Rocks – Placing mulch around rocks can give your lawn a clean, polished look that will cultivate vine growth. Planting creeping vines and other vines around rocks will give your lawn a rustic, country look that will last for a long time.
You do not have to use landscape fabric, but you should be prepared to weed the area.
Mulch should be replaced every few months. You should keep the mulch clean and weed the areas before the weed grow too big. Each year, you should till the soil to get rid of debris and weeds that have not had a chance to grow.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
Wednesday, February 07, 2007
Lawn Care - All About Mulch!
lawn care
Once your lawn is beginning to take form you should begin to think about accent pieces. These can be anything including:
Flowers
Trees
Hedges
Sculptures
Structures
Rocks
Fences
Mulch
Seating
Other types of landscaping
There are many ways to decorate your lawn. Many people usually start out small and add more pieces as their lawn grows. You can start with simple landscaping and add unique touches as you go along. Having this much freedom can be overwhelming at first, but you will find that balance between nature and style.
If you are still finding lawn decoration overwhelming, stick to these eight categories as they include all of the above and much more:
Mulch
Flower beds
Rock gardens
Trees
Fencing
Lawn sculptures
Structures
Landscaping
These categories are interchangeable and you can include a little of each in your lawn. Enjoy!
MULCH
Mulch can be made from organic materials made from your own lawn or you can buy mulch from your local home gardening store. There are a few types of mulch to choose from:
Moist mulches
Dry wood mulches (wood chips)
Stone mulches
While you should be using mulch to feed your plants, it can also be used for decorative purposes.
Moist Mulches
When using mulch, you should try to use the same kind on your entire lawn in order to keep the color scheme the same. Moist mulch will decompose over time. You will have to replace it every few months. This is the best mulch to use as it not only looks good, it will retain water and will also feed your plants and flowers.
Moist mulches can be made from:
Leaves
Plants
Wood
Moist mulch is very dense so that you will not have to use too much. Spread an even layer over the area you want to cover. Do not pack the mulch, just lay it loosely on top of the soil or landscape fabric.
Dry Wood Mulches (Wood Chips)
Dry wood mulches are made from small branches, bark, and other small pieces of wood.
This mulch will not decompose as quickly as moist mulch, but you should plan on replenishing the mulch every few months as rain and watering can cause the wood to become moldy.
Many people favor this mulch when they are decorating their lawns.
Stone Mulches
Stone mulches do not decompose and are relatively easy to clean. Watering will help keep dirt and other debris from sticking to the stone. Using a contrasting stone color will help the trees and plants on your lawn stand out.
Stone mulches are more expensive than other mulches and do not have any nutrients in them for maintaining healthy soil. You should save this mulch for trees and other plants that do not require as much water during the spring and summer seasons.
Since stone mulch retains more heat than the other types of mulches, you should not use this type of mulch on plants that are small and not as hearty as they could die from overheating. Use stone mulches on drought resistant plants.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
Once your lawn is beginning to take form you should begin to think about accent pieces. These can be anything including:
Flowers
Trees
Hedges
Sculptures
Structures
Rocks
Fences
Mulch
Seating
Other types of landscaping
There are many ways to decorate your lawn. Many people usually start out small and add more pieces as their lawn grows. You can start with simple landscaping and add unique touches as you go along. Having this much freedom can be overwhelming at first, but you will find that balance between nature and style.
If you are still finding lawn decoration overwhelming, stick to these eight categories as they include all of the above and much more:
Mulch
Flower beds
Rock gardens
Trees
Fencing
Lawn sculptures
Structures
Landscaping
These categories are interchangeable and you can include a little of each in your lawn. Enjoy!
MULCH
Mulch can be made from organic materials made from your own lawn or you can buy mulch from your local home gardening store. There are a few types of mulch to choose from:
Moist mulches
Dry wood mulches (wood chips)
Stone mulches
While you should be using mulch to feed your plants, it can also be used for decorative purposes.
Moist Mulches
When using mulch, you should try to use the same kind on your entire lawn in order to keep the color scheme the same. Moist mulch will decompose over time. You will have to replace it every few months. This is the best mulch to use as it not only looks good, it will retain water and will also feed your plants and flowers.
Moist mulches can be made from:
Leaves
Plants
Wood
Moist mulch is very dense so that you will not have to use too much. Spread an even layer over the area you want to cover. Do not pack the mulch, just lay it loosely on top of the soil or landscape fabric.
Dry Wood Mulches (Wood Chips)
Dry wood mulches are made from small branches, bark, and other small pieces of wood.
This mulch will not decompose as quickly as moist mulch, but you should plan on replenishing the mulch every few months as rain and watering can cause the wood to become moldy.
Many people favor this mulch when they are decorating their lawns.
Stone Mulches
Stone mulches do not decompose and are relatively easy to clean. Watering will help keep dirt and other debris from sticking to the stone. Using a contrasting stone color will help the trees and plants on your lawn stand out.
Stone mulches are more expensive than other mulches and do not have any nutrients in them for maintaining healthy soil. You should save this mulch for trees and other plants that do not require as much water during the spring and summer seasons.
Since stone mulch retains more heat than the other types of mulches, you should not use this type of mulch on plants that are small and not as hearty as they could die from overheating. Use stone mulches on drought resistant plants.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
Tuesday, February 06, 2007
Lawn Care - Alternatives to Green Lawns!
lawn care
If after giving it some deep thought, you just don’t want to deal with grass maintenance, but you still want to create a great looking lawn using plants, flowers, trees, and shrubs, you should consider alternative options to grass.
Who says a lawn has to be green? Other alternatives include:
Clover leaf lawns
Gravel lawns
Rock lawns
Mulch
Wild vines
Mixed plant lawns
If you have a small front lawn and do not want to plant grass, any one of these alternatives will work for your lawn. Eliminating the grass factor does not mean you will be getting out of doing yard work. You will still have to weed, plant each season, and make sure that your current plants are healthy.
Clover leaf lawns
Using small leaf plants that grow quickly and densely will the illusion of grass without having to mow. Clover leaf is a good plant to use especially if you live in an area that receives a lot of rain. You should plant these plants in the fall. You should prep the lawn and seed as you would a grass lawn. Within a few weeks, you will have a lawn covered with this pleasant looking green plant.
Maintaining these plants is easy. Make sure they receive plenty of water and trim them back on the sides of your lawn to keep them looking clean and neat. Since these plants do not grow very tall, you should not have to trim the tops.
Gravel lawns
Sometimes fine gravel that is mixed with different colors can be a nice complement to the trees and flowers that you have on your lawn. You can buy bags of gravel at your home and garden store.
Before spreading the gravel, you should prep your soil and weed it thoroughly. Spread gravel evenly on the ground with a rake. If you have drainage issues, you should reconsider laying gravel because you may end up with bald spots each time it rains.
You will have to weed more often in order to keep the lawn looking clean. Gravel lawns can look clean, simple, and will cut down on the time you will have to spend seeding and prepping your soil.
Rock lawns
A rock lawn is similar to a gravel lawn, except that you will be using rocks to decorate your lawn. You can spread a layer of gravel onto the soil and then arrange your rocks. You have many options here and you can combine mulch and rocks together to create a unique lawn.
Mulch
Mulch can be used on your entire lawn. You can buy different types of mulch that will match the rest of your landscaping.
You should be prepared to weed more often and change out the mulch every few months.
Wild vines
Wild vines are similar to clover leaf in that they will grow on their own without too much supervision. You may have to trim the vines occasionally to make sure the lawn looks clean.
There are many types of vines to choose from that will grow all year long.
Mixed plant lawns
If you want, you can mix your favorite plants and vine flowers together to create your own lawn. Be prepared to do your research, however. You should only mix plants and flowers that can work well together. Other wise, you will have plants and flowers competing with each other. The results could be very unpleasant.
As you can see, there are many alternatives to grass green lawns. You may want a traditional lawn, but areas where you can incorporate these suggestions. Your lawn should be a representation of who you are, so have a little fun and create something beautiful. Over the years, you may want a change. Adding new features to your lawn will only enhance its beauty.
Make sure that you have the right materials and tools before planting your lawn. You should be patient for the first few weeks as your plants, flowers, and grass are growing. Within a month, you should see some results.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
If after giving it some deep thought, you just don’t want to deal with grass maintenance, but you still want to create a great looking lawn using plants, flowers, trees, and shrubs, you should consider alternative options to grass.
Who says a lawn has to be green? Other alternatives include:
Clover leaf lawns
Gravel lawns
Rock lawns
Mulch
Wild vines
Mixed plant lawns
If you have a small front lawn and do not want to plant grass, any one of these alternatives will work for your lawn. Eliminating the grass factor does not mean you will be getting out of doing yard work. You will still have to weed, plant each season, and make sure that your current plants are healthy.
Clover leaf lawns
Using small leaf plants that grow quickly and densely will the illusion of grass without having to mow. Clover leaf is a good plant to use especially if you live in an area that receives a lot of rain. You should plant these plants in the fall. You should prep the lawn and seed as you would a grass lawn. Within a few weeks, you will have a lawn covered with this pleasant looking green plant.
Maintaining these plants is easy. Make sure they receive plenty of water and trim them back on the sides of your lawn to keep them looking clean and neat. Since these plants do not grow very tall, you should not have to trim the tops.
Gravel lawns
Sometimes fine gravel that is mixed with different colors can be a nice complement to the trees and flowers that you have on your lawn. You can buy bags of gravel at your home and garden store.
Before spreading the gravel, you should prep your soil and weed it thoroughly. Spread gravel evenly on the ground with a rake. If you have drainage issues, you should reconsider laying gravel because you may end up with bald spots each time it rains.
You will have to weed more often in order to keep the lawn looking clean. Gravel lawns can look clean, simple, and will cut down on the time you will have to spend seeding and prepping your soil.
Rock lawns
A rock lawn is similar to a gravel lawn, except that you will be using rocks to decorate your lawn. You can spread a layer of gravel onto the soil and then arrange your rocks. You have many options here and you can combine mulch and rocks together to create a unique lawn.
Mulch
Mulch can be used on your entire lawn. You can buy different types of mulch that will match the rest of your landscaping.
You should be prepared to weed more often and change out the mulch every few months.
Wild vines
Wild vines are similar to clover leaf in that they will grow on their own without too much supervision. You may have to trim the vines occasionally to make sure the lawn looks clean.
There are many types of vines to choose from that will grow all year long.
Mixed plant lawns
If you want, you can mix your favorite plants and vine flowers together to create your own lawn. Be prepared to do your research, however. You should only mix plants and flowers that can work well together. Other wise, you will have plants and flowers competing with each other. The results could be very unpleasant.
As you can see, there are many alternatives to grass green lawns. You may want a traditional lawn, but areas where you can incorporate these suggestions. Your lawn should be a representation of who you are, so have a little fun and create something beautiful. Over the years, you may want a change. Adding new features to your lawn will only enhance its beauty.
Make sure that you have the right materials and tools before planting your lawn. You should be patient for the first few weeks as your plants, flowers, and grass are growing. Within a month, you should see some results.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
Monday, February 05, 2007
Lawn Care - How to Mulch a Tree!
lawn care
How to Mulch a Tree
Most people would think mulching a tree to be the most natural thing in the world. Mulch recreates the forest environment where decaying twigs, leaves and branches cover the ground. As nature breaks them down, they feed the trees and keep the soil moist.
What is unnatural is the way today's gardeners make mounds of mulch around
the base of their trees. (I have to admit, I'm guilty of this as well)
Huge wood-chip piles are smothering these poor, helpless trees.
These mounds look unnatural and actually damage trees by
depriving them of water and air.
In this article, I will explain the basic steps for mulching a tree. You can use whatever mulch you wish - compost, shredded leaves and bark are all acceptable. If you wish to use wood-chips, they have to be fully composted or they will deprive soil nitrogen as they decompose. This will cause your tree to starve.
One plus to mulching correctly is that you will fertilize water and weed less frequently. The mulch will provide all the nutrients that your tree will need.
When you mulch a tree, keep the mulch 6 to 12 inches away from the trunk. Mulch holds moisture, which is a plus unless it is piled against the tree's trunk. Unlike the roots of trees, the trunk will not tolerate being constantly moist. By putting mulch around the trunk, you are sending an invitation to moisture-loving insects, rodents and fungi.
Mulch should be applied to ensure that when it settles the layer will be no more than 2 to 3 inches deep. If mulch has a fine, sawdust texture or is applied too deeply, water and air will not be able to penetrate the mulch layer.
Be sure to spread mulch over the ground directly under the tree's canopy. This area is known as the drip line. This keeps grasses from growing near the tree's roots.
It prevents injury to the tree's trunk by your lawn mower or string trimmer. It allows more of the tree's root system to benefit from the moisture-retaining mulch.
By following the above tips, you will save time water and fertilizing and will enjoy a yard with healthy, beautiful trees.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
How to Mulch a Tree
Most people would think mulching a tree to be the most natural thing in the world. Mulch recreates the forest environment where decaying twigs, leaves and branches cover the ground. As nature breaks them down, they feed the trees and keep the soil moist.
What is unnatural is the way today's gardeners make mounds of mulch around
the base of their trees. (I have to admit, I'm guilty of this as well)
Huge wood-chip piles are smothering these poor, helpless trees.
These mounds look unnatural and actually damage trees by
depriving them of water and air.
In this article, I will explain the basic steps for mulching a tree. You can use whatever mulch you wish - compost, shredded leaves and bark are all acceptable. If you wish to use wood-chips, they have to be fully composted or they will deprive soil nitrogen as they decompose. This will cause your tree to starve.
One plus to mulching correctly is that you will fertilize water and weed less frequently. The mulch will provide all the nutrients that your tree will need.
When you mulch a tree, keep the mulch 6 to 12 inches away from the trunk. Mulch holds moisture, which is a plus unless it is piled against the tree's trunk. Unlike the roots of trees, the trunk will not tolerate being constantly moist. By putting mulch around the trunk, you are sending an invitation to moisture-loving insects, rodents and fungi.
Mulch should be applied to ensure that when it settles the layer will be no more than 2 to 3 inches deep. If mulch has a fine, sawdust texture or is applied too deeply, water and air will not be able to penetrate the mulch layer.
Be sure to spread mulch over the ground directly under the tree's canopy. This area is known as the drip line. This keeps grasses from growing near the tree's roots.
It prevents injury to the tree's trunk by your lawn mower or string trimmer. It allows more of the tree's root system to benefit from the moisture-retaining mulch.
By following the above tips, you will save time water and fertilizing and will enjoy a yard with healthy, beautiful trees.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
Saturday, February 03, 2007
Lawn Care - The Right Way to Mow Your Lawn!
lawn care
Lawn Mowers
The way you mow your lawn could mean the difference between a healthy lawn and a very healthy lawn. Most people are not thrilled when they have to mow the lawn or weed it. But these are important lawn maintenance tasks that have to be done.
The first step to mowing the lawn is to buy the right lawn mower. There are many different kinds on the market today.
Push mower -These are probably the oldest lawn mowers in existence, but they are very effective for smaller lawns. You will get no special perks from this mower. With some updated mower, you may be able to change the blade height, but that’s about it.
All you have to do is manually push the mower over the lawn and it will cut the grass. It is important to make sure the grass is dry or it will get caught in the blade and you will have to remove it.
The clippings will fall on the lawn.
You can grab a bag and rake them up, or you can let them decompose and feed your lawn. It’s your choice.
Electric mower - An electric mower is a little easier to use because it is powers by electricity. This means that you will be able to cut your lawn faster than with a push mower. Older electric mowers have a power cord that you will have to plug in order to use. These mowers can be dangerous if you do not remember to look after the cord.
As with the push mower, you will have to clean up the clippings or leave them on your lawn.
Electric cordless mower - These mowers do not have cords which make them much easier to use and do not require you to find an outlet on both sides of the house. Electric cordless mowers also come with a bag that will store lawn clippings. When the bag is full, you will have to empty it. These mowers run on a battery that can be charged easily when not in use.
These mowers can also be used without the bag if you would rather let the lawn clippings fertilize your lawn.
Ride-on mower - For larger lawns, a ride-on mower will help you not run out of energy to complete other tasks around the yard once the mowing is complete.
These mowers have bags that will catch lawn clippings.
Mulching mower - If you want to use your lawn clippings, but do not like the site of them, you should look into investing in a mulching mower. These mowers will ground up lawn clippings so they are not as visible as regular clippings.
How to Mow
Regardless of which lawn mower you purchase, you should learn how to mow the lawn correctly so that you do not do unnecessary damage. You should consider following these tips:
You should mow your lawn when the grass is dry and is about three inches in length. If you mow any sooner, you may end up killing the grass. You will then have to reseed and start all over again. If you don’t want to walk outside each weekend and measure your lawn, you should mow about twice a month or every other weekend during the summertime.
Each time you mow your lawn, you should begin in a different direction. If you mow in the same direction each time, you will end up creating ruts in your lawn. These ruts could destroy your lawn and also make it look run down and unkempt.
Even if you do not want lawn clippings, and have not purchased a mulching mower, maybe you could compromise and only pick up lawn clippings once a month instead of twice. Full of nutrients, lawn clippings will make your lawn healthier.
Mowing the lawn is not difficult, but it should be done correctly so that you can get the most from your lawn during the spring and summer months. The nutrients you feed your lawn during this time will keep your lawn healthy for the entire year. While mowing too much can be a problem, so can not mowing enough. Long grass can cause shorter pieces to not get enough sunlight.
Mow your lawn consistently and you will enjoy a lush lawn all season long. Fertilize it with fertilizers, mulch, compost, and lawn clippings to keep that green alive all year long.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
Lawn Mowers
The way you mow your lawn could mean the difference between a healthy lawn and a very healthy lawn. Most people are not thrilled when they have to mow the lawn or weed it. But these are important lawn maintenance tasks that have to be done.
The first step to mowing the lawn is to buy the right lawn mower. There are many different kinds on the market today.
Push mower -These are probably the oldest lawn mowers in existence, but they are very effective for smaller lawns. You will get no special perks from this mower. With some updated mower, you may be able to change the blade height, but that’s about it.
All you have to do is manually push the mower over the lawn and it will cut the grass. It is important to make sure the grass is dry or it will get caught in the blade and you will have to remove it.
The clippings will fall on the lawn.
You can grab a bag and rake them up, or you can let them decompose and feed your lawn. It’s your choice.
Electric mower - An electric mower is a little easier to use because it is powers by electricity. This means that you will be able to cut your lawn faster than with a push mower. Older electric mowers have a power cord that you will have to plug in order to use. These mowers can be dangerous if you do not remember to look after the cord.
As with the push mower, you will have to clean up the clippings or leave them on your lawn.
Electric cordless mower - These mowers do not have cords which make them much easier to use and do not require you to find an outlet on both sides of the house. Electric cordless mowers also come with a bag that will store lawn clippings. When the bag is full, you will have to empty it. These mowers run on a battery that can be charged easily when not in use.
These mowers can also be used without the bag if you would rather let the lawn clippings fertilize your lawn.
Ride-on mower - For larger lawns, a ride-on mower will help you not run out of energy to complete other tasks around the yard once the mowing is complete.
These mowers have bags that will catch lawn clippings.
Mulching mower - If you want to use your lawn clippings, but do not like the site of them, you should look into investing in a mulching mower. These mowers will ground up lawn clippings so they are not as visible as regular clippings.
How to Mow
Regardless of which lawn mower you purchase, you should learn how to mow the lawn correctly so that you do not do unnecessary damage. You should consider following these tips:
You should mow your lawn when the grass is dry and is about three inches in length. If you mow any sooner, you may end up killing the grass. You will then have to reseed and start all over again. If you don’t want to walk outside each weekend and measure your lawn, you should mow about twice a month or every other weekend during the summertime.
Each time you mow your lawn, you should begin in a different direction. If you mow in the same direction each time, you will end up creating ruts in your lawn. These ruts could destroy your lawn and also make it look run down and unkempt.
Even if you do not want lawn clippings, and have not purchased a mulching mower, maybe you could compromise and only pick up lawn clippings once a month instead of twice. Full of nutrients, lawn clippings will make your lawn healthier.
Mowing the lawn is not difficult, but it should be done correctly so that you can get the most from your lawn during the spring and summer months. The nutrients you feed your lawn during this time will keep your lawn healthy for the entire year. While mowing too much can be a problem, so can not mowing enough. Long grass can cause shorter pieces to not get enough sunlight.
Mow your lawn consistently and you will enjoy a lush lawn all season long. Fertilize it with fertilizers, mulch, compost, and lawn clippings to keep that green alive all year long.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn care
Friday, February 02, 2007
Lawn Care - Overseeding and Adding Nutrients!
lawn care
Once you have taken steps to seed or sod your lawn, you will have to watch it carefully for the first few weeks. Since the soil is not that same pH level throughout, you may notice thinner patches of grass or bald spots. If these spots do not fill in on their own, you may need to practice some corrective measures.
Overseeding
One way you can repair bald patches is to overseed the area. This is a very easy process that should be completed in the following way:
Since new seeds will be competing for sunlight and food from grass that is already there, you should cut the grass around the area shorter than normal. This will give the seeds a chance.
After mowing the area, look around to see if the soil is compacted or if there is thatch present. You may need to aerate the area before planting new seeds.
You should rake the soil and pull out rocks or weeds. Make the area as clean as possible before planting. Throw down some fertilizer or compost.
Use a seed spreader and plant the seeds. Then rake over the area carefully.
Water the area each day, but do not flood the area as the seeds will be washed away.
You should continue to monitor the area until the grass comes in. If you have cooler season grass, you may notice this problem in the summertime due to the sun’s rays which will overheat cooler grasses.
While you may experience the same problems with warmer season grasses in the fall, you will not see as much damage.
You should try to plant cooler season grass in shady areas so that it will thrive and will not over heat. But since many grasses are mixed, this could be a challenge.
Try to buy grass that is suited for your region. This will help reduce the need to overseed. Overseeding should help your problem and allow your lawn to look great all year long.
If overseeding does not work, then you should have another sample of your soil taken in these areas to see if the problem can be corrected by changing the ph of the soil.
You have a few options when it comes to adding nutrients to your lawn. You can:
Apply lawn fertilizers
Apply mulch
Apply compost
Leave lawn clippings on the lawn after mowing
Watering the lawn often
These are all great ways to help keep your lawn healthy. When applying lawn fertilizers, you should find one that is suitable for your grass type and also one that has ‘slow release’ nutrients. These fertilizers will release nutrients slowly so that you do not have to use them as often. This should reduce your weed problems and keep your grass looking its best.
When applying fertilizer, use a seed spreader so that you will give the lawn an even coat of fertilizer. After fertilizing the lawn, water it to allow the fertilizer to saturate the soil.
Mulch and compost are also great ways to fertilize your lawn in between using fertilizer. You can spread mulch and compost as often as you see necessary since it will decompose quickly.
If you do not mind lawn clippings on your lawn, use a bagless lawn mower and let the clippings decompose on the lawn. This will also keep your grass looking healthy.
In order for fertilizers to work their magic, you will have to:
Weed often
Remove thatch as soon as possible
Water the lawn often
Do not mow the lawn too often
Make sure the drainage system is working
Nutrients that come in the form or fertilizer, mulch, or compost will feed your lawn all year long. Even in the winter time, you will have to feed your lawn. Use fertilizers that are foe the right seasons and types of grass that you have. Read the instructions carefully and only apply the correct amount.
Over fertilizing the lawn can cause the grass to die, so be careful.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn care
Once you have taken steps to seed or sod your lawn, you will have to watch it carefully for the first few weeks. Since the soil is not that same pH level throughout, you may notice thinner patches of grass or bald spots. If these spots do not fill in on their own, you may need to practice some corrective measures.
Overseeding
One way you can repair bald patches is to overseed the area. This is a very easy process that should be completed in the following way:
Since new seeds will be competing for sunlight and food from grass that is already there, you should cut the grass around the area shorter than normal. This will give the seeds a chance.
After mowing the area, look around to see if the soil is compacted or if there is thatch present. You may need to aerate the area before planting new seeds.
You should rake the soil and pull out rocks or weeds. Make the area as clean as possible before planting. Throw down some fertilizer or compost.
Use a seed spreader and plant the seeds. Then rake over the area carefully.
Water the area each day, but do not flood the area as the seeds will be washed away.
You should continue to monitor the area until the grass comes in. If you have cooler season grass, you may notice this problem in the summertime due to the sun’s rays which will overheat cooler grasses.
While you may experience the same problems with warmer season grasses in the fall, you will not see as much damage.
You should try to plant cooler season grass in shady areas so that it will thrive and will not over heat. But since many grasses are mixed, this could be a challenge.
Try to buy grass that is suited for your region. This will help reduce the need to overseed. Overseeding should help your problem and allow your lawn to look great all year long.
If overseeding does not work, then you should have another sample of your soil taken in these areas to see if the problem can be corrected by changing the ph of the soil.
You have a few options when it comes to adding nutrients to your lawn. You can:
Apply lawn fertilizers
Apply mulch
Apply compost
Leave lawn clippings on the lawn after mowing
Watering the lawn often
These are all great ways to help keep your lawn healthy. When applying lawn fertilizers, you should find one that is suitable for your grass type and also one that has ‘slow release’ nutrients. These fertilizers will release nutrients slowly so that you do not have to use them as often. This should reduce your weed problems and keep your grass looking its best.
When applying fertilizer, use a seed spreader so that you will give the lawn an even coat of fertilizer. After fertilizing the lawn, water it to allow the fertilizer to saturate the soil.
Mulch and compost are also great ways to fertilize your lawn in between using fertilizer. You can spread mulch and compost as often as you see necessary since it will decompose quickly.
If you do not mind lawn clippings on your lawn, use a bagless lawn mower and let the clippings decompose on the lawn. This will also keep your grass looking healthy.
In order for fertilizers to work their magic, you will have to:
Weed often
Remove thatch as soon as possible
Water the lawn often
Do not mow the lawn too often
Make sure the drainage system is working
Nutrients that come in the form or fertilizer, mulch, or compost will feed your lawn all year long. Even in the winter time, you will have to feed your lawn. Use fertilizers that are foe the right seasons and types of grass that you have. Read the instructions carefully and only apply the correct amount.
Over fertilizing the lawn can cause the grass to die, so be careful.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn care
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