gardening
Growing Squashes
The squash is a firm fleshy vegetable not used in this country nearly enough. It is in the gaud section of the cucumber family, which includes marrows, courgettes and pumpkins. They come in many shapes, flavours and colours. There are some wonderful recipes that can be made from squashes. As a vegetable it can be eaten raw in salads, it can be boiled, baked, fried, grilled and roasted. It has a delicate flavour so can be cooked with herbs to add variety.
Squash is an easy crop to grow and they are exciting too because of their rapid growth. There are two types, bush and trailing and there are those who are grown in the summer who's fruits are harvested when they are ready and the winter squashes that are allowed to grow until they are their full size, then harvested, stored in a dry, frost-free shed to be used when required. However, in this country growing them over winter can have its difficulties due to the fact that the squash is not hardy, so I think that if you decide to grow this vegetable it should be one of the summer varieties you should go for.
Soil Preparation
Squashes prefer heavier soils; they do best in positions where there is shelter from cold winds and they must have a sunny site. When preparing the ground, add plenty of manure and compost where the plants are to grow; this should be dug into the ground quite deeply about 9 in. (228mm). Begin by digging a trench 9 in. (228mm) deep put in the manure then dig another putting the soil from this into the first trench. This will form a ridge. The squashes can be planted into the ridges, 6 ft. (180cm) apart for the trailing varieties, 4 ft. (120cm) apart for the bush types.
Sowing
For best results sow three-year-old seed, this will help ensure that the plants produce a greater proportion of female blooms. It is much better to buy your seed from a supplier rather than saving your own. This will ensure that they are virus free and also importantly that they come true. There are very few seeds in a packet but will be ample for most gardeners. Sow the seed during April in John Innes seed compost, 1 in. (25mm) deep, on their sides in 3 in. (76mm) pots in a greenhouse or warm windowsill at a temperature of about 50 deg. F. (10 deg C.). Put two seeds into the pot, the weaker one can be removed if they both germinate. Harden off the young plants by putting them into cold frames at the end of May. Plant them out after about two or three weeks along the ridges when the chance of frost has passed.
Planting
Water the pots well before planting out. Avoid holding the plants by their stems as they are easily bruised causing them irreparable damage. If the weather is cool cover each plant with a cloche for the first week to give them a little warmth and protection. As an individual plant protector I find one of the best methods is to use a cut down, clear plastic 5 litre mineral bottle, the top half of the bottle makes excellent cloche. Whilst giving protection at the same time it allows air and moisture through the neck of the bottle into the plant.
General care
Trailing varieties should have the tip of the main shoot pinched back by an inch when they are 1 ½ ft. (45cm) long, this encourages the formation of side growth (laterals) on which the bulk of the female flowers will be borne. As the plants grow they will require extra manure and compost; this should be given as mulch around the base of each plant. For extra protection against the surface roots from drying out, grass clippings can also be used as mulch. Marrows require plenty of water so that they are able to grow and fully develop, soak the roots thoroughly and regularly. On the other hand, in very wet weather too much trailing leafy growth may result, in which case clip back the shoots to allow more air to circulate around the flowers and developing fruits. They are generally trouble free if the summer is a good one but slugs can sometimes be a problem; to be on the safe side position a few slug traps around the base of the plants
Harvesting
In a good summer, squashes can often be cut in late August; keep cutting them when they are young and the plants will continue cropping until well into September. If the intention is to store some for winter use, leave the fruits on the plant until October.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Sunday, December 31, 2006
Saturday, December 30, 2006
Gardening - How to Grow Spinach!
gardening
Growing Spinach
There are two main types of annual spinach: round or summer spinach and the prickly or winter spinach.
Soil Preparation
Spinach requires a rich fertile soil that has been well worked so that it is fine and crumbly yet one that retains moisture. The plants go to seed quickly on poor soil whilst sandy soil does not hold the moisture long enough to maintain the best growing conditions for spinach. It is a quick growing crop so can be inter-cropped with peas and beans or grown as a catch crop before planting out brassicas or leeks.
When forking over the ground, dig in manure and compost to the rate of a bucketful to the sq. yd. After treading the ground to firm it and break down any lumps, apply fish manure at 4 oz. (120g) to the square yd., rake lightly over then add some bone meal and sulphate of potash as a dressing.
Sowing: Summer Spinach
Sow summer spinach in March. It is better to sow three Successional sowings at 2 weekly intervals. Make drills 1 in. deep and 1 ft. (30cm) apart and sow the seed thinly. These can be thinned three weeks later to 3 in. (76mm) apart. Thin again three weeks later so that 6 in. (15cm) is allowed between the plants. Those plants that are removed from this thinning will be just large enough to make a tasty dish when cooked and eaten whole.
General Care
It is very important that the crop is grown quickly so that it is tender. Water and hoe the plants regularly and feed with liquid manure. Top-dress the rows with nitrate of soda at the rate of ½ oz. (15g) to the yard.
Sowing: Winter Spinach
Winter spinach can begin to be sown during August, and then make Successional sowings through until the end of September. Sow into a bed that is in a shadier position than those, which are sown in summer. It is an advantage to first soak the seeds in water the day before you intend to sow. If the soil is heavy and water retentive, then it is better to sow into raised beds to aid drainage. From November, the plants should be covered with cloches to give them protection.
Harvesting
Summer spinach should be picked whilst the leaves are young and tender; winter spinach, should have only the largest leaves removed throughout the winter, those plants that still remain at the end of winter will die
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Growing Spinach
There are two main types of annual spinach: round or summer spinach and the prickly or winter spinach.
Soil Preparation
Spinach requires a rich fertile soil that has been well worked so that it is fine and crumbly yet one that retains moisture. The plants go to seed quickly on poor soil whilst sandy soil does not hold the moisture long enough to maintain the best growing conditions for spinach. It is a quick growing crop so can be inter-cropped with peas and beans or grown as a catch crop before planting out brassicas or leeks.
When forking over the ground, dig in manure and compost to the rate of a bucketful to the sq. yd. After treading the ground to firm it and break down any lumps, apply fish manure at 4 oz. (120g) to the square yd., rake lightly over then add some bone meal and sulphate of potash as a dressing.
Sowing: Summer Spinach
Sow summer spinach in March. It is better to sow three Successional sowings at 2 weekly intervals. Make drills 1 in. deep and 1 ft. (30cm) apart and sow the seed thinly. These can be thinned three weeks later to 3 in. (76mm) apart. Thin again three weeks later so that 6 in. (15cm) is allowed between the plants. Those plants that are removed from this thinning will be just large enough to make a tasty dish when cooked and eaten whole.
General Care
It is very important that the crop is grown quickly so that it is tender. Water and hoe the plants regularly and feed with liquid manure. Top-dress the rows with nitrate of soda at the rate of ½ oz. (15g) to the yard.
Sowing: Winter Spinach
Winter spinach can begin to be sown during August, and then make Successional sowings through until the end of September. Sow into a bed that is in a shadier position than those, which are sown in summer. It is an advantage to first soak the seeds in water the day before you intend to sow. If the soil is heavy and water retentive, then it is better to sow into raised beds to aid drainage. From November, the plants should be covered with cloches to give them protection.
Harvesting
Summer spinach should be picked whilst the leaves are young and tender; winter spinach, should have only the largest leaves removed throughout the winter, those plants that still remain at the end of winter will die
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Friday, December 29, 2006
Gardening - How to Grow Rhubarb!
gardening
Growing Rhubarb
Rhubarb is a vegetable with a unique taste that makes it also a favourite when cooked with added sugar and put into pies and desserts. It originated in Asia over 2,000 years ago; initially cultivated for its medicinal qualities; it was not until the 18th century that rhubarb was grown for culinary purposes in Britain. Rhubarb is often commonly mistaken to be a fruit but rhubarb is actually a close relative of garden sorrel, and is therefore a member of the vegetable family. Rhubarb is rich in vitamin C and dietary fibre. Rhubarb leaves grow from the ground in early spring. In some countries, the leaves can grow up to a foot or more in width and length and the plant may grow to a height of several feet. The blade or green leaves of the plant are the part that is poisonous. They contain high concentrations of oxalic acid crystals, which can cause serious problems when eaten. These crystals can cause the tongue and throat to swell, preventing breathing. The edible petioles (stalks) can grow up to 18 in. (45cm) long, 1 to 2 in. (25mm-50mm) in diameter, generally somewhat hemispherical in cross section. These petioles are cut and used in pies, jams, jellies, sauces and juice. Rhubarb rhizomes and the crown persist for many years.
Sowing
While seeds can be sown, rhubarb is usually planted in roots or crown form.
Planting
A piece of root with at least one bud or root is planted with the crown just at soil level. Plant outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked. Rhubarb is hardy and will survive late spring frosts. If there is a really hard frost, the leaves and stalk could be damaged, but new ones will soon replace those that are damaged. Space two or three crowns of Rhubarb two to three feet apart and they will spread. Rhubarb tolerates a little crowding, but the stalks and leaves will grow bigger and healthier if you allow them plenty of space. A few plants are all you will need for a home garden.
Days to Maturity It is important to allow the plant to become well established before you begin to harvest the sticks; there they should not be taken until their second or third year after planting. Rhubarb can be picked in the spring as soon as the stalks are large enough to harvest in sufficient quantity for the recipe you are planning to use.
Soil Preparation
Before planting, select a location where they will not be disturbed for years and where they will not be in the way when tilling your garden in future years. Rhubarb can be planted in partial shade, but will do much better in full sun.
General Care
Being easy to grow, Rhubarb will thrive in most garden soils. But to ensure that better tasting, larger cropping should be your rewards; you must add plenty of manure and compost to the soil each year. Use a liquid feed during the growing season at two-week intervals for well-established plants, to promote leaf and stalk growth. Make sure ample water is in the soil during the harvest period. After harvest, don't forget to provide water to keep your plants healthy all year long. Healthy Rhubarb will grow and spread. Separate or thin the plants every five years or sooner if the plants become crowded.
Disease Rhubarb is long lived and suffers from very few diseases.
Harvesting
The stalks can be harvested regardless of length. When harvesting, grasp a stalk firmly close to the ground. Twist and pull the stalk and it should break free of the plant. While harvesting, pick the largest stalks first. Don't let them get too big, as some of the flavour will be lost. Rhubarb stalks will remain sweet and flavoursome until the warm summer weather begins and the stalks become less sweet.
Forcing
Rhubarb can be forced into growing earlier. While the ground has not warmed up sufficiently for the plant to really get growing, cover a couple of plants with a five gallon bucket, preferably black. You can also use a thick layer of straw or leaf mulch. The plants will begin growing earlier and you can harvest them days or weeks before you would normally do.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
gardening
Growing Rhubarb
Rhubarb is a vegetable with a unique taste that makes it also a favourite when cooked with added sugar and put into pies and desserts. It originated in Asia over 2,000 years ago; initially cultivated for its medicinal qualities; it was not until the 18th century that rhubarb was grown for culinary purposes in Britain. Rhubarb is often commonly mistaken to be a fruit but rhubarb is actually a close relative of garden sorrel, and is therefore a member of the vegetable family. Rhubarb is rich in vitamin C and dietary fibre. Rhubarb leaves grow from the ground in early spring. In some countries, the leaves can grow up to a foot or more in width and length and the plant may grow to a height of several feet. The blade or green leaves of the plant are the part that is poisonous. They contain high concentrations of oxalic acid crystals, which can cause serious problems when eaten. These crystals can cause the tongue and throat to swell, preventing breathing. The edible petioles (stalks) can grow up to 18 in. (45cm) long, 1 to 2 in. (25mm-50mm) in diameter, generally somewhat hemispherical in cross section. These petioles are cut and used in pies, jams, jellies, sauces and juice. Rhubarb rhizomes and the crown persist for many years.
Sowing
While seeds can be sown, rhubarb is usually planted in roots or crown form.
Planting
A piece of root with at least one bud or root is planted with the crown just at soil level. Plant outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked. Rhubarb is hardy and will survive late spring frosts. If there is a really hard frost, the leaves and stalk could be damaged, but new ones will soon replace those that are damaged. Space two or three crowns of Rhubarb two to three feet apart and they will spread. Rhubarb tolerates a little crowding, but the stalks and leaves will grow bigger and healthier if you allow them plenty of space. A few plants are all you will need for a home garden.
Days to Maturity It is important to allow the plant to become well established before you begin to harvest the sticks; there they should not be taken until their second or third year after planting. Rhubarb can be picked in the spring as soon as the stalks are large enough to harvest in sufficient quantity for the recipe you are planning to use.
Soil Preparation
Before planting, select a location where they will not be disturbed for years and where they will not be in the way when tilling your garden in future years. Rhubarb can be planted in partial shade, but will do much better in full sun.
General Care
Being easy to grow, Rhubarb will thrive in most garden soils. But to ensure that better tasting, larger cropping should be your rewards; you must add plenty of manure and compost to the soil each year. Use a liquid feed during the growing season at two-week intervals for well-established plants, to promote leaf and stalk growth. Make sure ample water is in the soil during the harvest period. After harvest, don't forget to provide water to keep your plants healthy all year long. Healthy Rhubarb will grow and spread. Separate or thin the plants every five years or sooner if the plants become crowded.
Disease Rhubarb is long lived and suffers from very few diseases.
Harvesting
The stalks can be harvested regardless of length. When harvesting, grasp a stalk firmly close to the ground. Twist and pull the stalk and it should break free of the plant. While harvesting, pick the largest stalks first. Don't let them get too big, as some of the flavour will be lost. Rhubarb stalks will remain sweet and flavoursome until the warm summer weather begins and the stalks become less sweet.
Forcing
Rhubarb can be forced into growing earlier. While the ground has not warmed up sufficiently for the plant to really get growing, cover a couple of plants with a five gallon bucket, preferably black. You can also use a thick layer of straw or leaf mulch. The plants will begin growing earlier and you can harvest them days or weeks before you would normally do.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
gardening
Thursday, December 28, 2006
Gardening -How to Grow Radish!
gardening
Growing Radish
Radish are a tasty addition to any salad dish, they give it bite, spice and of course add colour, texture and variety. They are easy to grow; in fact they were the first vegetable crop I grew as a child.
There are two main types of radish: the large winter kind and the small varieties that are specifically grown for use in salads. The winter varieties are giants in comparison to the summer ones, they can reach a length of 12in. (30cm) and have either white, black or pink skins. On the other hand the summer varieties maybe globular, intermediate and long with red or white skins; some types have a peppery bite, others are milder in taste.
Soil Preparation
Radishes are easy to grow, they are not too demanding and they are a quick crop as they are not in the ground for long, often used as a catch crop in-between other crops. They do not require a deep soil either but they do need plenty of fine organic matter in the top 3 or 4 in. (76mm - 101mm) so that they are able to grow quickly and they must never be allowed to go short of moisture.
Prepare the plot by forking in some well-rotted compost or manure at the rate of a bucketful to the square yard.
Sowing
Make the surface of the soil level and fine with a rake, and then sow the seeds either in drills ½ in. (12mm) deep or broadcast. The summer croppers can be sown from January until August but it is best done at 2 weekly intervals so that a succession of cropping can be achieved then they may be eaten whilst they are fresh and tender. Winter varieties should be from July until the end of August so that they are ready to be lifted from the end of October but they can remain in the ground so that they may be used over winter. After sowing pat down the soil with the back of a spade to make it really firm.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Growing Radish
Radish are a tasty addition to any salad dish, they give it bite, spice and of course add colour, texture and variety. They are easy to grow; in fact they were the first vegetable crop I grew as a child.
There are two main types of radish: the large winter kind and the small varieties that are specifically grown for use in salads. The winter varieties are giants in comparison to the summer ones, they can reach a length of 12in. (30cm) and have either white, black or pink skins. On the other hand the summer varieties maybe globular, intermediate and long with red or white skins; some types have a peppery bite, others are milder in taste.
Soil Preparation
Radishes are easy to grow, they are not too demanding and they are a quick crop as they are not in the ground for long, often used as a catch crop in-between other crops. They do not require a deep soil either but they do need plenty of fine organic matter in the top 3 or 4 in. (76mm - 101mm) so that they are able to grow quickly and they must never be allowed to go short of moisture.
Prepare the plot by forking in some well-rotted compost or manure at the rate of a bucketful to the square yard.
Sowing
Make the surface of the soil level and fine with a rake, and then sow the seeds either in drills ½ in. (12mm) deep or broadcast. The summer croppers can be sown from January until August but it is best done at 2 weekly intervals so that a succession of cropping can be achieved then they may be eaten whilst they are fresh and tender. Winter varieties should be from July until the end of August so that they are ready to be lifted from the end of October but they can remain in the ground so that they may be used over winter. After sowing pat down the soil with the back of a spade to make it really firm.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Wednesday, December 27, 2006
Gardening - How to Grow Potatoes!
gardening
Growing Potatoes
The potato is I think every body's favourite vegetable, versatile and delicious. If you haven't grown potatoes before you may not be aware of just how many varieties there are to grow, a far greater choice than we have from the supermarkets. Growing your own spuds gives you the opportunity to sample the many flavours and textures and you get so many from your crops that it really can save you money. Potatoes are also useful as a cleaning up crop, for after growing potatoes the ground is cleaner as during the growing period the tops grow large smothering out weeds. Of course a great deal of preparation will have gone into the land, adding large quantities of manure and compost to guarantee a good potato yield, also the crop does not leave behind any detrimental residues so that it is ideal for any crop that is to follow.
Choosing which crop to plant:
Earlies: If you are working with a limited area, then you should concentrate on the earlier types. Another thing in the early types favour is that because they are lifted earlier, they are less likely to encounter problems such as wireworms, slugs and blight. Earlies are ready 15 - 16 weeks after planting about mid-June and July.
Second Earlies: Second Earlies take 16-17 weeks to mature after planting about June through to August
Maincrops: Maincrops are ready 18-20 weeks after planting August through to late September. These take up the most space in the garden, but they are the best varieties to store
Soil Preparation
Potatoes should be grown on deep, fertile soil that is well drained and contains plenty of organic matter. Choose a sunny position in the garden but avoid exposed sites and frost pockets, these delay the developing foliage
Prepare the land the previous autumn dig down to a spades depth and leave it rough. In the spring during March or early April, prepare 4 in. (101mm) deep furrows and place in them some well-rotted manure and compost at the rate of a wheelbarrow full per sq. yard. Sprinkle fish manure with a 6 per cent potash evenly along the furrows at a rate of 3 oz. (90g) to the yard run. Do not add lime; potatoes dislike lime and its presence in the soil appear to encourage scab disease. If you haven't done the preparation at the suggested time, you can still go ahead, some rules can be broken and you can still grow a good crop if you prepare the land just before planting.
Preparing Tubers
Plant potatoes that are the size of a hen's egg, weighing about 2-¼ oz. (67g). Buy your tubers from a reputable seeds man, choosing those, which are virus free. If the tubers are larger than 2-¼ oz. (67g) cut them into two, lengthways at planting time, but make sure that there are 'eyes' or shoots on each piece. A box or tray is the ideal container to start off the seeds, the ones used for fruit packing are ideal, they are light in weight and at each corner of the box a piece of wood extends, which allows more boxes to be placed on top for stacking. This ensures that the tray above will not press down on the contents of the first box. Start to prepare your potato seeds at the end of January or February by standing then in a tray with the majority of 'eyes' at the top, the practice is termed "chitting" it is done in order that the seed potatoes will shoot and get them off to a good start. Place them closely together so that they remain standing in the same position. Store the trays in a frost-free shed, greenhouse or a cool room in the house where there is plenty of light. If more than two good strong shoots develop on each tuber, the extras should be carefully rubbed off.
Planting
The time for planting potatoes will depend on your area, in the south the middle of March is suitable but April is better in the north when the ground starts to warm up. The main crop needs a longer season of growth so these must be planted first, and the earlier crops last. At the time the tubers are planted the two sprouts should be about 2 in. (50mm) long. Take great care not to knock off the shoots from the tubers, taking them separately from the box and placing them into the furrows carefully should help to safeguard any accidental damage at this stage.
Plant Earlies 12 in. (30cm) apart in rows 16-20 in. (40-50cm) apart;
Plant Main-crops or Lates 16 in. (40cm) apart in rows 30 in. (75cm) apart.
Place the potatoes on the manure setting them into the trench with the shoots pointing upwards, in the furrows that are 3-5in. (76mm-127mm) deep, but the exact depth should vary according to the variety of potato you are planting. Cover each one with a small handful of grass mowings; this will help to keep away scab disease. Do not reduce the suggested spacing between the rows, as then there will be no room to earth up as the top growth appears. Draw the soil into the planted furrows in such a way that a mound is left along each row. Should the warning of frosts be given, any subsequent leaves that appear must be covered over with soil until the threat of frost has passed; horticultural fleece is ideal for this purpose.
General care
When the shoots appear, earth up each row by covering it with a ridge of soil so that the shoots are just buried; this must be done on a regular basis. The sides of the ridges should be at an angle of 45 deg. If they are steeper, the tubers may start to appear through the sides of the ridges; if they are flatter, the plants will not be sufficiently well covered. By the end of the growing season the ridges will be about 6in. (15cm) high.
Earthing up is extremely important and though it may seem a tedious exercise is a vital part of growing potatoes. It protects the tubers from frost and reduces the number of green potatoes. As the plants grow and the fruits develop, the tubers tend to be pulled towards the surface, however once they reach the surface and the light reaches them, they turn green and are inedible, becoming poisonous and only suitable for the compost heap.
Once the tubers have reached the size of marbles, it is particularly important that they have adequate water. Unless there is a regular, ample rainfall, the size and quality of the crop will be reduced.
Harvesting
Use the early potatoes as soon as they are large enough, a warm sunny day is best, but do not lift them if they are too small; they crop can double its weight in two weeks. The first should be ready about June until September, depending on the variety and of course the weather. Main crop varieties can be left in the ground much longer, until September, even though the haulms or stalks may well be looking past their best. Cut off the haulms to ground level two weeks before you lift the crop, this will give the potato skins sufficient time to toughen up, making them easier to store.
Storage
As soon as the tubers are dry, you can store them in a cool but frost-free location. It is essential to store them in the dark, packed in either paper or Hessian sacks.
Pests and disease
Something to watch for is Potato Blight (phytophthora infestans) a particularly nasty disease that will ruin the cop. It is a common disease of the potato especially in warm, muggy seasons
Potato Blight
First symptoms are a dark brown patch and yellowing of the leaves, which then turn black, a white bloom then develops on the underside as the foliage dies. To help avoid this disease it is so important to use only certified seed, those that are produced in areas where infection is not prevalent. If the disease does attach your crop destroy any infected potatoes by burning them. Always make sure that all the crop is harvested do not allow any potatoes to remain in the soil after harvesting. Avoid overhead watering, which will wash spores down to the soil.
Always earth up well to protect the tubers. If after taking all the precautions this disease infests the crop, remove all the top-growth so that it does not spread to the tubers so that some may be saved. A good resistant variety is King Edwards, but among those who are susceptible are Maris Piper and Desiree.
Scab
Scab is especially prolific on light, sandy soils or those that have recently been limed or converted from grassland; this disease causes raised scabby patches on the potatoes skin. To control is unpleasant condition, water regularly, improve the organic content of the soil before next crop of potatoes are planted, and importantly do not lime prior to planting. Choose resistant varieties such as 'Arran Comet', 'Arran Pilot', 'King Edward' and 'Maris Peer'.
If slugs and wireworm are a problem, lift the crop as soon as possible as these pets generally become more of a problem towards the end of the season
Varieties to try:
'Charlotte' An excellent early crop with yellow flesh, suitable for salads and jacket potatoes. 'Foremost': An early with good flavour and firm white flesh. Excellent boiled or in salads. 'Kestrel': One of my own favourites, a main crop or second early, makes superb chips and roasts. 'King Edward': Everyone must have heard of this one, wonderful flavour, heavy cropper, but not entirely problem free but well worth growing.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Growing Potatoes
The potato is I think every body's favourite vegetable, versatile and delicious. If you haven't grown potatoes before you may not be aware of just how many varieties there are to grow, a far greater choice than we have from the supermarkets. Growing your own spuds gives you the opportunity to sample the many flavours and textures and you get so many from your crops that it really can save you money. Potatoes are also useful as a cleaning up crop, for after growing potatoes the ground is cleaner as during the growing period the tops grow large smothering out weeds. Of course a great deal of preparation will have gone into the land, adding large quantities of manure and compost to guarantee a good potato yield, also the crop does not leave behind any detrimental residues so that it is ideal for any crop that is to follow.
Choosing which crop to plant:
Earlies: If you are working with a limited area, then you should concentrate on the earlier types. Another thing in the early types favour is that because they are lifted earlier, they are less likely to encounter problems such as wireworms, slugs and blight. Earlies are ready 15 - 16 weeks after planting about mid-June and July.
Second Earlies: Second Earlies take 16-17 weeks to mature after planting about June through to August
Maincrops: Maincrops are ready 18-20 weeks after planting August through to late September. These take up the most space in the garden, but they are the best varieties to store
Soil Preparation
Potatoes should be grown on deep, fertile soil that is well drained and contains plenty of organic matter. Choose a sunny position in the garden but avoid exposed sites and frost pockets, these delay the developing foliage
Prepare the land the previous autumn dig down to a spades depth and leave it rough. In the spring during March or early April, prepare 4 in. (101mm) deep furrows and place in them some well-rotted manure and compost at the rate of a wheelbarrow full per sq. yard. Sprinkle fish manure with a 6 per cent potash evenly along the furrows at a rate of 3 oz. (90g) to the yard run. Do not add lime; potatoes dislike lime and its presence in the soil appear to encourage scab disease. If you haven't done the preparation at the suggested time, you can still go ahead, some rules can be broken and you can still grow a good crop if you prepare the land just before planting.
Preparing Tubers
Plant potatoes that are the size of a hen's egg, weighing about 2-¼ oz. (67g). Buy your tubers from a reputable seeds man, choosing those, which are virus free. If the tubers are larger than 2-¼ oz. (67g) cut them into two, lengthways at planting time, but make sure that there are 'eyes' or shoots on each piece. A box or tray is the ideal container to start off the seeds, the ones used for fruit packing are ideal, they are light in weight and at each corner of the box a piece of wood extends, which allows more boxes to be placed on top for stacking. This ensures that the tray above will not press down on the contents of the first box. Start to prepare your potato seeds at the end of January or February by standing then in a tray with the majority of 'eyes' at the top, the practice is termed "chitting" it is done in order that the seed potatoes will shoot and get them off to a good start. Place them closely together so that they remain standing in the same position. Store the trays in a frost-free shed, greenhouse or a cool room in the house where there is plenty of light. If more than two good strong shoots develop on each tuber, the extras should be carefully rubbed off.
Planting
The time for planting potatoes will depend on your area, in the south the middle of March is suitable but April is better in the north when the ground starts to warm up. The main crop needs a longer season of growth so these must be planted first, and the earlier crops last. At the time the tubers are planted the two sprouts should be about 2 in. (50mm) long. Take great care not to knock off the shoots from the tubers, taking them separately from the box and placing them into the furrows carefully should help to safeguard any accidental damage at this stage.
Plant Earlies 12 in. (30cm) apart in rows 16-20 in. (40-50cm) apart;
Plant Main-crops or Lates 16 in. (40cm) apart in rows 30 in. (75cm) apart.
Place the potatoes on the manure setting them into the trench with the shoots pointing upwards, in the furrows that are 3-5in. (76mm-127mm) deep, but the exact depth should vary according to the variety of potato you are planting. Cover each one with a small handful of grass mowings; this will help to keep away scab disease. Do not reduce the suggested spacing between the rows, as then there will be no room to earth up as the top growth appears. Draw the soil into the planted furrows in such a way that a mound is left along each row. Should the warning of frosts be given, any subsequent leaves that appear must be covered over with soil until the threat of frost has passed; horticultural fleece is ideal for this purpose.
General care
When the shoots appear, earth up each row by covering it with a ridge of soil so that the shoots are just buried; this must be done on a regular basis. The sides of the ridges should be at an angle of 45 deg. If they are steeper, the tubers may start to appear through the sides of the ridges; if they are flatter, the plants will not be sufficiently well covered. By the end of the growing season the ridges will be about 6in. (15cm) high.
Earthing up is extremely important and though it may seem a tedious exercise is a vital part of growing potatoes. It protects the tubers from frost and reduces the number of green potatoes. As the plants grow and the fruits develop, the tubers tend to be pulled towards the surface, however once they reach the surface and the light reaches them, they turn green and are inedible, becoming poisonous and only suitable for the compost heap.
Once the tubers have reached the size of marbles, it is particularly important that they have adequate water. Unless there is a regular, ample rainfall, the size and quality of the crop will be reduced.
Harvesting
Use the early potatoes as soon as they are large enough, a warm sunny day is best, but do not lift them if they are too small; they crop can double its weight in two weeks. The first should be ready about June until September, depending on the variety and of course the weather. Main crop varieties can be left in the ground much longer, until September, even though the haulms or stalks may well be looking past their best. Cut off the haulms to ground level two weeks before you lift the crop, this will give the potato skins sufficient time to toughen up, making them easier to store.
Storage
As soon as the tubers are dry, you can store them in a cool but frost-free location. It is essential to store them in the dark, packed in either paper or Hessian sacks.
Pests and disease
Something to watch for is Potato Blight (phytophthora infestans) a particularly nasty disease that will ruin the cop. It is a common disease of the potato especially in warm, muggy seasons
Potato Blight
First symptoms are a dark brown patch and yellowing of the leaves, which then turn black, a white bloom then develops on the underside as the foliage dies. To help avoid this disease it is so important to use only certified seed, those that are produced in areas where infection is not prevalent. If the disease does attach your crop destroy any infected potatoes by burning them. Always make sure that all the crop is harvested do not allow any potatoes to remain in the soil after harvesting. Avoid overhead watering, which will wash spores down to the soil.
Always earth up well to protect the tubers. If after taking all the precautions this disease infests the crop, remove all the top-growth so that it does not spread to the tubers so that some may be saved. A good resistant variety is King Edwards, but among those who are susceptible are Maris Piper and Desiree.
Scab
Scab is especially prolific on light, sandy soils or those that have recently been limed or converted from grassland; this disease causes raised scabby patches on the potatoes skin. To control is unpleasant condition, water regularly, improve the organic content of the soil before next crop of potatoes are planted, and importantly do not lime prior to planting. Choose resistant varieties such as 'Arran Comet', 'Arran Pilot', 'King Edward' and 'Maris Peer'.
If slugs and wireworm are a problem, lift the crop as soon as possible as these pets generally become more of a problem towards the end of the season
Varieties to try:
'Charlotte' An excellent early crop with yellow flesh, suitable for salads and jacket potatoes. 'Foremost': An early with good flavour and firm white flesh. Excellent boiled or in salads. 'Kestrel': One of my own favourites, a main crop or second early, makes superb chips and roasts. 'King Edward': Everyone must have heard of this one, wonderful flavour, heavy cropper, but not entirely problem free but well worth growing.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Tuesday, December 26, 2006
Gardening - How to Grow Parsnips!
gardening
Growing Parsnips
Parsnips are more versatile than many people are aware for they can be used in several different ways; boiled, roasted, and fried they are a delicious change from potatoes in many of the recipes where we would normally use spuds. They are really delicious made into chips or crisps with a lovely mild, slightly sweet flavour, mashed with a little butter, served on they're own, or mixed with potatoes or some other root vegetable such as carrots, they are superb.
Soil Preparation
Parsnips will grow equally well in heavy clay or light loam but the soil does need to be deep and well manured from a previous crop, or manured in autumn of the previous season, otherwise the roots will fork instead of growing straight and clean.
Sowing
The parsnip is usually the first vegetable crop to be sown each year, in the south they can be sown at the end of February, whilst it is normally the end of March in the north. If they are sown later in April, then they tend not to grow as large but they are more likely to germinate better because the ground will have warmed up.
Drills should be 1in. (25mm) deep and about 15 in. (381mm) between rows. Because parsnip seed germinates badly, it is less important that seed is sown thinly. The fact that they germinate slowly does have its advantages because other quick growing crops such as radish may be sown with parsnips for when space is required for the host crop, the catch-crop (the radish) will be ready to harvest.
General Care
Keep the ground free from weeds but take great care not to damage the root, as they will succumb to canker. Make sure that they have plenty of water to prevent the roots from splitting and so that they are able to develop and grow well.
Harvesting
Parsnips are slow growing occupying the ground for several months before they are ready to lift; they may be dug up any time after the foliage begins to die away. They taste better when they have been touched by frost as this will sweeten them adding to their flavour, and therefore they may be left in the ground until late in the winter. If the ground is needed for other crops before the frosts have arrived, the parsnips may be dug up and left on the ground in a heap, where they can await the frosts. In excessively hard frosts the roots should be taken into a dry shed and covered with a sack, alternatively they can be stored in boxes of peat or Vermiculite.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Growing Parsnips
Parsnips are more versatile than many people are aware for they can be used in several different ways; boiled, roasted, and fried they are a delicious change from potatoes in many of the recipes where we would normally use spuds. They are really delicious made into chips or crisps with a lovely mild, slightly sweet flavour, mashed with a little butter, served on they're own, or mixed with potatoes or some other root vegetable such as carrots, they are superb.
Soil Preparation
Parsnips will grow equally well in heavy clay or light loam but the soil does need to be deep and well manured from a previous crop, or manured in autumn of the previous season, otherwise the roots will fork instead of growing straight and clean.
Sowing
The parsnip is usually the first vegetable crop to be sown each year, in the south they can be sown at the end of February, whilst it is normally the end of March in the north. If they are sown later in April, then they tend not to grow as large but they are more likely to germinate better because the ground will have warmed up.
Drills should be 1in. (25mm) deep and about 15 in. (381mm) between rows. Because parsnip seed germinates badly, it is less important that seed is sown thinly. The fact that they germinate slowly does have its advantages because other quick growing crops such as radish may be sown with parsnips for when space is required for the host crop, the catch-crop (the radish) will be ready to harvest.
General Care
Keep the ground free from weeds but take great care not to damage the root, as they will succumb to canker. Make sure that they have plenty of water to prevent the roots from splitting and so that they are able to develop and grow well.
Harvesting
Parsnips are slow growing occupying the ground for several months before they are ready to lift; they may be dug up any time after the foliage begins to die away. They taste better when they have been touched by frost as this will sweeten them adding to their flavour, and therefore they may be left in the ground until late in the winter. If the ground is needed for other crops before the frosts have arrived, the parsnips may be dug up and left on the ground in a heap, where they can await the frosts. In excessively hard frosts the roots should be taken into a dry shed and covered with a sack, alternatively they can be stored in boxes of peat or Vermiculite.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Sunday, December 24, 2006
Gardening - How to Grow Peas!
gardening
Growing Peas
Growing peas gives you the choice of climbing or dwarf varieties; there are so many varieties that peas can be sown at any time from February to November depending on the variety. Choose early varieties for sowing in February and March, main crop varieties for sowing in April and May, late varieties for sowing in June or even later, and winter-growing varieties for sowing in October and November. In the south early varieties may be picked as early as June, and the last of the late varieties mid October. Those varieties which grow over winter can be picked in early May of the following year. Sugar peas (mangetout) and petit pois are grown in exactly the same way. Freshly picked, young sweet and tender, garden peas, are a feast, which can be eaten just straight from the pod. As a vegetable to accompany a meal the rich colour add visual pleasure helping to stimulate our appetites and they can be include in many main course dishes.
Soil Preparation
Four weeks before sowing, add well-rotted compost and manure into the soil to a depth of 9 in. (228mm) at the rate of a bucketful to the yard. Two weeks before sowing rake in a top dressing of fish manure or bone meal at a rate of 4 oz. (120g) to the sq. yd; alternatively, rake in a mixture of 2 oz.(60g) carbonate of lime and 1 oz. (30g) sulphate of potash to the sq. yd.
Sowing
For early sowing choose a well-drained area, where the ground has been well prepared to provide aeration. Peas must not be grown in the same plot as in the previous year. Avoid sowing seeds in soils that are wet and cold as they can sometimes be attacked by fungus, then germination is poor. To sow the seeds make 2 in.(50mm) flat-bottomed drills with a hoe. Allow the seeds 3 in. (76mm) of space between each. The distance between the drills will depend on the variety that is being sown. The width between the drills is equal to the height of the plants; 4 ft. (120cm) high varieties should be spaced 4 ft. (120cm) apart, 1-½ ft. (45cm) varieties should be 1 ½ ft. (45cm) apart. Give the plants protection from birds by placing small twigs over the soil, or use black cotton stranded from pegs close to the ground.
General Care
When the seedlings are about 3 in. (76mm) high, they should be encouraged to climb, this can be done by erecting posts at the end of each row, between these fasten wire to which plastic netting can then be attached that should run the full length of the row. As soon as the flowers appear the crop should be given an adequate amount of water in order for the pods to grow plump and juicy and to prevent them becoming stunted. Mulching is a good idea because it helps to retain moisture.
Harvesting
Pick the pods frequently when they are ready to encourage even more pods. If you are growing Mange tout varieties pick before the pods have swollen. Pick the peas as near to the time you intend to cook them as possible to retain the sweetness, few of the ones that I grow get the chance to come into the kitchen for they are generally eaten on site, (lost remembered days of childhood). When the plants have finished fruiting, cut off the stems and put them onto the compost heap, allow the roots to remain in the ground so that they can fix nitrogen into the soil.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
gardening
Growing Peas
Growing peas gives you the choice of climbing or dwarf varieties; there are so many varieties that peas can be sown at any time from February to November depending on the variety. Choose early varieties for sowing in February and March, main crop varieties for sowing in April and May, late varieties for sowing in June or even later, and winter-growing varieties for sowing in October and November. In the south early varieties may be picked as early as June, and the last of the late varieties mid October. Those varieties which grow over winter can be picked in early May of the following year. Sugar peas (mangetout) and petit pois are grown in exactly the same way. Freshly picked, young sweet and tender, garden peas, are a feast, which can be eaten just straight from the pod. As a vegetable to accompany a meal the rich colour add visual pleasure helping to stimulate our appetites and they can be include in many main course dishes.
Soil Preparation
Four weeks before sowing, add well-rotted compost and manure into the soil to a depth of 9 in. (228mm) at the rate of a bucketful to the yard. Two weeks before sowing rake in a top dressing of fish manure or bone meal at a rate of 4 oz. (120g) to the sq. yd; alternatively, rake in a mixture of 2 oz.(60g) carbonate of lime and 1 oz. (30g) sulphate of potash to the sq. yd.
Sowing
For early sowing choose a well-drained area, where the ground has been well prepared to provide aeration. Peas must not be grown in the same plot as in the previous year. Avoid sowing seeds in soils that are wet and cold as they can sometimes be attacked by fungus, then germination is poor. To sow the seeds make 2 in.(50mm) flat-bottomed drills with a hoe. Allow the seeds 3 in. (76mm) of space between each. The distance between the drills will depend on the variety that is being sown. The width between the drills is equal to the height of the plants; 4 ft. (120cm) high varieties should be spaced 4 ft. (120cm) apart, 1-½ ft. (45cm) varieties should be 1 ½ ft. (45cm) apart. Give the plants protection from birds by placing small twigs over the soil, or use black cotton stranded from pegs close to the ground.
General Care
When the seedlings are about 3 in. (76mm) high, they should be encouraged to climb, this can be done by erecting posts at the end of each row, between these fasten wire to which plastic netting can then be attached that should run the full length of the row. As soon as the flowers appear the crop should be given an adequate amount of water in order for the pods to grow plump and juicy and to prevent them becoming stunted. Mulching is a good idea because it helps to retain moisture.
Harvesting
Pick the pods frequently when they are ready to encourage even more pods. If you are growing Mange tout varieties pick before the pods have swollen. Pick the peas as near to the time you intend to cook them as possible to retain the sweetness, few of the ones that I grow get the chance to come into the kitchen for they are generally eaten on site, (lost remembered days of childhood). When the plants have finished fruiting, cut off the stems and put them onto the compost heap, allow the roots to remain in the ground so that they can fix nitrogen into the soil.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
gardening
Saturday, December 23, 2006
Gardening - How to Grow Onions!
gardening
Growing Onions
Onions are members of the Allium family and a popular crop for those of us who grow our own food. There are three main groups of onions: salad or spring onions, which are sown in the autumn or spring, the autumn sown varieties for early bulbs, and the early sown kinds for late keeping. Their flavours range from mild to strong and extremely strong or real tearjerker. All parts of the plant are edible but we generally restrict ourselves to the bulb. They can be round, oval or slender, their colour can be red, yellow, white or green. It is well documented that onions are good for our health. Garlic, for example, has a very long folk history of use in the treatment of a wide range of diseases. Onions are claimed to have ant-cancer properties and many believe that the evidence is stacked in this theories favour. They contain vitamin A and C, phosphorus and potassium. As well as being beneficial for our health, alliums are also good companions for other plants in the garden. They are usually planted next to roses, carrots, beet and camomile to give them protection from disease and pests; if they are good enough for plants they can surely do a lot for us too! Therefore growing onions is immensely satisfying as they are so useful. In cooking they are used as a condiment or seasoning; few main course dishes would taste quite as good without the addition of either onions or garlic.
Soil Preparation
Choose an open site to allow the onions as much sunlight as they can get. Onions do best in light, sandy, well-drained, deep loam, which has been well manured; this should be undertaken in the previous autumn. The roots need air as well as moisture therefore waterlogged soil should be avoided. Dig in plenty of compost and manure at the rate of 1 ½ bucketfuls to the sq. yd. For autumn sowings, do not use manure or compost; sow the seed on land where a well manured crop has recently grown.
Two weeks before sowing or planting out, apply fish manure with 10 per cent potash content at 4 oz.(120g) to the sq. yd. If you are growing the autumn sown varieties, a dressing of 4 oz. (120g) of bone meal and 2 oz. (60g) of sulphate of potash can be given in February. If the land has a low lime content add carbonate of lime as a top dressing at 5 oz. (150g) to the sq. yd. best results are gained when the soil is kept at pH 6.5 to 7.0. Yellow-green plants characterize nitrogen deficiency, whilst phosphorous deficiency results in light green plants that mature slowly. Poor bulb formation with brown leaf tips is the result of potassium deficiency.
Spring Sowing
Two sowings or plantings are essential if you are to have a year-round supply of onions. Onions need to go in as early as possible, because a long growing season should allow the bulbs to gain good size to harvest. The first sowing is made in March where the soil has been well raked; these can be harvested from August. Make ½-in. (12mm) deep drills 1 ft. (30cm) apart and sow thinly. An excellent companion planting is parsley as this herb helps to keep the dreaded onion fly at bay, so the parsley seeds should be plan sown at the same time.
Onion Sets
Onion sets are small bulbs, which are planted in the spring as an alternative to growing from seed. They have a shorter growing season and many gardeners believe them to be easier to grow and harvest, especially in the north or wetter parts of the country. Another advantage is that they are less likely to be attacked by onion fly. Sets can be bought in which case, choose onion sets that have been heat-treated. Many people prefer to grow onions from sets rather than from seed but there are fewer varieties to choose than if you grow your onions from seed. If you do raise sets yourself from seed, sown them thickly in May in poor soil. Do not thin out, water occasionally but do not feed. This will produce a crop of small bulbs not more than ½ to ¾ in.(12mm - 19mm) in diameter. Lift these in September, store in a cool, dry shed until they can be planted out the following spring. Plant out the single bulbs at the end of March in drills 1 in. (25mm) deep and 1 ft. (30cm) apart. Space the bulbs in the drills about 6 in. (15cm) apart then cover. You can also sow the seed in January or February under cover at a temperature of 50-59 F. (10-15 degrees C.) into onion modules. These are shallow trays with individual compartments; an indentation is made in each compartment and the seed sown into these. Sowing sets this way will allow the onions to be planted out in April.
Autumn Sowing
Sow the seeds in September in rows 9 in. (228mm) apart. This second sowing will be ready to be harvested the following June. Thinning out is done in early spring; those that are pulled up are used in salads. However it is far better to ensure when sowing that the seeds are sown thinly, this means that there is less likelihood of attack from onion fly.
General care
The lack of rain in mid-summer will mean that Main-crop onions will require watering. In particularly dry conditions they will need to be watered for about an hour every ten days or so. However water should not be given when the bulbs start to ripen in late summer or early autumn. Thin out where necessary and hoe the soil regularly to keep down weeds.
Ready to use bulb onions are ready for use in late August and September or early October. Those harvested first are those, which were sown in autumn. When the tops are beginning to turn yellow, bend over the necks of the plants; the leaves will gradually dry off; when the skin of the bulbs turn yellow, lift them gently and lay them out in the sun to dry off; turn them occasionally so that they ripen evenly If the weather is poor, complete the ripening-off on shelves in the greenhouse or shed. After about two weeks they should be ready to put into store, during this period the flavour will develop. Onions may be stored in boxes but to ensure that air circulates around them, make up a rack of wire netting, two or three tier high and place this in each box. Alternatively their stalks can be tied onto a rope so that they form an elongated bunch. Start by tying the first by its stalk to the rope with raffia and then continue to tie more around and above working them along the piece of rope or stout twine; these can then be hung around the shed ready for use.
Onion neck rot:
The fungus Botrytis allii causes this disease Onion neck rot. Symptoms include the development of a slightly fluffy grey fungal growth around the neck of the onion; a softening of the tissues follows; black fungus then takes hold. This disease can be avoided by purchasing onion sets from a reputable source and by crop rotation. Onions should not be grown on the same site for more than one or two years in succession. Onions with white bulbs are more susceptible than those with yellow or red bulbs.
Downy mildew:
Those leaves which are effected develop off-white or grey, fluffy fungal growth, start to discolour and die back. The disease is caused by the fungus Peronospora destructor and is encouraged by dampness or humidity. Remove effected leaves and rectify growing conditions.
Bolting:
The term bolting means that the plant has run to seed and has sent up a flower stem before reaching full maturity and is in fact quite a common problem. This is especially so when temperatures are relatively low early in the year, or if there is a late cold spell. Very hot, dry conditions may also induce bolting.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
gardening
Growing Onions
Onions are members of the Allium family and a popular crop for those of us who grow our own food. There are three main groups of onions: salad or spring onions, which are sown in the autumn or spring, the autumn sown varieties for early bulbs, and the early sown kinds for late keeping. Their flavours range from mild to strong and extremely strong or real tearjerker. All parts of the plant are edible but we generally restrict ourselves to the bulb. They can be round, oval or slender, their colour can be red, yellow, white or green. It is well documented that onions are good for our health. Garlic, for example, has a very long folk history of use in the treatment of a wide range of diseases. Onions are claimed to have ant-cancer properties and many believe that the evidence is stacked in this theories favour. They contain vitamin A and C, phosphorus and potassium. As well as being beneficial for our health, alliums are also good companions for other plants in the garden. They are usually planted next to roses, carrots, beet and camomile to give them protection from disease and pests; if they are good enough for plants they can surely do a lot for us too! Therefore growing onions is immensely satisfying as they are so useful. In cooking they are used as a condiment or seasoning; few main course dishes would taste quite as good without the addition of either onions or garlic.
Soil Preparation
Choose an open site to allow the onions as much sunlight as they can get. Onions do best in light, sandy, well-drained, deep loam, which has been well manured; this should be undertaken in the previous autumn. The roots need air as well as moisture therefore waterlogged soil should be avoided. Dig in plenty of compost and manure at the rate of 1 ½ bucketfuls to the sq. yd. For autumn sowings, do not use manure or compost; sow the seed on land where a well manured crop has recently grown.
Two weeks before sowing or planting out, apply fish manure with 10 per cent potash content at 4 oz.(120g) to the sq. yd. If you are growing the autumn sown varieties, a dressing of 4 oz. (120g) of bone meal and 2 oz. (60g) of sulphate of potash can be given in February. If the land has a low lime content add carbonate of lime as a top dressing at 5 oz. (150g) to the sq. yd. best results are gained when the soil is kept at pH 6.5 to 7.0. Yellow-green plants characterize nitrogen deficiency, whilst phosphorous deficiency results in light green plants that mature slowly. Poor bulb formation with brown leaf tips is the result of potassium deficiency.
Spring Sowing
Two sowings or plantings are essential if you are to have a year-round supply of onions. Onions need to go in as early as possible, because a long growing season should allow the bulbs to gain good size to harvest. The first sowing is made in March where the soil has been well raked; these can be harvested from August. Make ½-in. (12mm) deep drills 1 ft. (30cm) apart and sow thinly. An excellent companion planting is parsley as this herb helps to keep the dreaded onion fly at bay, so the parsley seeds should be plan sown at the same time.
Onion Sets
Onion sets are small bulbs, which are planted in the spring as an alternative to growing from seed. They have a shorter growing season and many gardeners believe them to be easier to grow and harvest, especially in the north or wetter parts of the country. Another advantage is that they are less likely to be attacked by onion fly. Sets can be bought in which case, choose onion sets that have been heat-treated. Many people prefer to grow onions from sets rather than from seed but there are fewer varieties to choose than if you grow your onions from seed. If you do raise sets yourself from seed, sown them thickly in May in poor soil. Do not thin out, water occasionally but do not feed. This will produce a crop of small bulbs not more than ½ to ¾ in.(12mm - 19mm) in diameter. Lift these in September, store in a cool, dry shed until they can be planted out the following spring. Plant out the single bulbs at the end of March in drills 1 in. (25mm) deep and 1 ft. (30cm) apart. Space the bulbs in the drills about 6 in. (15cm) apart then cover. You can also sow the seed in January or February under cover at a temperature of 50-59 F. (10-15 degrees C.) into onion modules. These are shallow trays with individual compartments; an indentation is made in each compartment and the seed sown into these. Sowing sets this way will allow the onions to be planted out in April.
Autumn Sowing
Sow the seeds in September in rows 9 in. (228mm) apart. This second sowing will be ready to be harvested the following June. Thinning out is done in early spring; those that are pulled up are used in salads. However it is far better to ensure when sowing that the seeds are sown thinly, this means that there is less likelihood of attack from onion fly.
General care
The lack of rain in mid-summer will mean that Main-crop onions will require watering. In particularly dry conditions they will need to be watered for about an hour every ten days or so. However water should not be given when the bulbs start to ripen in late summer or early autumn. Thin out where necessary and hoe the soil regularly to keep down weeds.
Ready to use bulb onions are ready for use in late August and September or early October. Those harvested first are those, which were sown in autumn. When the tops are beginning to turn yellow, bend over the necks of the plants; the leaves will gradually dry off; when the skin of the bulbs turn yellow, lift them gently and lay them out in the sun to dry off; turn them occasionally so that they ripen evenly If the weather is poor, complete the ripening-off on shelves in the greenhouse or shed. After about two weeks they should be ready to put into store, during this period the flavour will develop. Onions may be stored in boxes but to ensure that air circulates around them, make up a rack of wire netting, two or three tier high and place this in each box. Alternatively their stalks can be tied onto a rope so that they form an elongated bunch. Start by tying the first by its stalk to the rope with raffia and then continue to tie more around and above working them along the piece of rope or stout twine; these can then be hung around the shed ready for use.
Onion neck rot:
The fungus Botrytis allii causes this disease Onion neck rot. Symptoms include the development of a slightly fluffy grey fungal growth around the neck of the onion; a softening of the tissues follows; black fungus then takes hold. This disease can be avoided by purchasing onion sets from a reputable source and by crop rotation. Onions should not be grown on the same site for more than one or two years in succession. Onions with white bulbs are more susceptible than those with yellow or red bulbs.
Downy mildew:
Those leaves which are effected develop off-white or grey, fluffy fungal growth, start to discolour and die back. The disease is caused by the fungus Peronospora destructor and is encouraged by dampness or humidity. Remove effected leaves and rectify growing conditions.
Bolting:
The term bolting means that the plant has run to seed and has sent up a flower stem before reaching full maturity and is in fact quite a common problem. This is especially so when temperatures are relatively low early in the year, or if there is a late cold spell. Very hot, dry conditions may also induce bolting.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
gardening
Friday, December 22, 2006
Gardening - How to Grow Marrows!
gardening
Growing Marrows
Marrows are a vegetable not used in this country nearly enough. There are many types and varieties, some dwarf, others almost climbers. Marrows are a firm fleshy vegetable, which belongs to the gaud section of the cucumber family, which includes courgettes, squashes and pumpkins. Marrows are an easy crop to grow; children find them fun, fascinated and excited by the crops rapid growth. Plants like these kindle interest in gardening at an early age which gives hope for the future, for once the passion for growing plants and good quality home grown foods has been kindled, it generally continues throughout a person's life
Soil Preparation
Marrows prefer heavier soils; they do best in positions where there is shelter from cold winds. When preparing the ground, add plenty of manure and compost where the plants are to grow; this should be dug into the ground quite deeply about 9 inches. Begin by digging a trench 9 inches (228mm) deep put in the manure then dig another putting the soil from this into the first trench. This will form a ridge; continue to do this to add manure and compost and create a series of ridges. The marrows can be planted into the ridges, 6 ft. (180cm) apart for the trailing varieties, 4 ft. (120cm) apart for the bush types.
Sowing
For best results sow three-year-old seed, this will help ensure that the plants produce a greater proportion of female blooms. At the beginning of April sow the seed in John Innes seed compost in 3 in. (76mm) pots in a greenhouse at a temperature of about 50 deg. F. (10 deg C.). Harden off the young plants by putting them into frames at the end of April. Plant them out along the ridges at the end of May though it might be as late as June in the north.
Planting
Water the pots well before planting out. Avoid holding the plants by their stems as they are easily bruised causing them irreparable damage. If the weather is cool cover each plant for the first week to give them a little warmth and protection. One of the best methods I find is to use a half of a clear plastic 5 litre mineral bottle; a bottle makes two excellent cloches. The top half, whilst giving protection also allows air and moisture through the neck onto the plants. To prevent flying insects entering through the neck of the bottle, I secure a small piece of fleece with an elastic band.
General care
Trailing varieties should have the tip of the main shoot pinched back by an in. when they are 1 ½ ft. (45cm) long, this encourages the formation of side growth (laterals) on which the bulk of the female flowers will be borne. As the plants grow they will require extra manure and compost; this should be given as mulch around the base of each plant. For extra protection against the surface roots from drying out, grass clippings can also be used as mulch. Marrows require plenty of water so that they are able to grow and fully develop, soak the roots thoroughly and regularly. On the other hand, in very wet weather too much trailing leafy growth may result in which case; clip back the shoots to allow more air to circulate around the flowers and developing fruits.
Harvesting
In a good summer, marrows can often be cut in July; keep cutting them when they are young and the plants will continue cropping until well into September. If the intention is to store some for winter use, leave the fruits on the plant until October. I find that I generally produce too many fruits for my own use. The surplus I trade with my local grocer and my immediate neighbours; in my neighbour's case they are exchanged for home made jams and preserves.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Growing Marrows
Marrows are a vegetable not used in this country nearly enough. There are many types and varieties, some dwarf, others almost climbers. Marrows are a firm fleshy vegetable, which belongs to the gaud section of the cucumber family, which includes courgettes, squashes and pumpkins. Marrows are an easy crop to grow; children find them fun, fascinated and excited by the crops rapid growth. Plants like these kindle interest in gardening at an early age which gives hope for the future, for once the passion for growing plants and good quality home grown foods has been kindled, it generally continues throughout a person's life
Soil Preparation
Marrows prefer heavier soils; they do best in positions where there is shelter from cold winds. When preparing the ground, add plenty of manure and compost where the plants are to grow; this should be dug into the ground quite deeply about 9 inches. Begin by digging a trench 9 inches (228mm) deep put in the manure then dig another putting the soil from this into the first trench. This will form a ridge; continue to do this to add manure and compost and create a series of ridges. The marrows can be planted into the ridges, 6 ft. (180cm) apart for the trailing varieties, 4 ft. (120cm) apart for the bush types.
Sowing
For best results sow three-year-old seed, this will help ensure that the plants produce a greater proportion of female blooms. At the beginning of April sow the seed in John Innes seed compost in 3 in. (76mm) pots in a greenhouse at a temperature of about 50 deg. F. (10 deg C.). Harden off the young plants by putting them into frames at the end of April. Plant them out along the ridges at the end of May though it might be as late as June in the north.
Planting
Water the pots well before planting out. Avoid holding the plants by their stems as they are easily bruised causing them irreparable damage. If the weather is cool cover each plant for the first week to give them a little warmth and protection. One of the best methods I find is to use a half of a clear plastic 5 litre mineral bottle; a bottle makes two excellent cloches. The top half, whilst giving protection also allows air and moisture through the neck onto the plants. To prevent flying insects entering through the neck of the bottle, I secure a small piece of fleece with an elastic band.
General care
Trailing varieties should have the tip of the main shoot pinched back by an in. when they are 1 ½ ft. (45cm) long, this encourages the formation of side growth (laterals) on which the bulk of the female flowers will be borne. As the plants grow they will require extra manure and compost; this should be given as mulch around the base of each plant. For extra protection against the surface roots from drying out, grass clippings can also be used as mulch. Marrows require plenty of water so that they are able to grow and fully develop, soak the roots thoroughly and regularly. On the other hand, in very wet weather too much trailing leafy growth may result in which case; clip back the shoots to allow more air to circulate around the flowers and developing fruits.
Harvesting
In a good summer, marrows can often be cut in July; keep cutting them when they are young and the plants will continue cropping until well into September. If the intention is to store some for winter use, leave the fruits on the plant until October. I find that I generally produce too many fruits for my own use. The surplus I trade with my local grocer and my immediate neighbours; in my neighbour's case they are exchanged for home made jams and preserves.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Thursday, December 21, 2006
Gardening - How to Grow Summer and Winter Lettuces!
Growing Lettuces
It is perfectly possible by growing several varieties, to harvest lettuces out-of-doors from May until late October. They can then later be grown under cloches. Few salad dishes are complete without some type of crisp lettuce, rich in vitamins and minerals. Most have a mild flavour but Rocket, my own personal favourite has a strong peppery bite to it, even a few leaves added to the mildest variety gives added flavour to a salad.
The best results are obtained by sowing the seed in rich, well-manured soil where the plants are to grow. There are two main types of lettuce, cabbage and cos, but many varieties of both. Tall, short, dwarf, "butterhead" "iceberg" and many more, all shades of green and even red make up the varieties.
Summer Cabbage Lettuce
Soil Preparation
The soil should be prepared in the previous autumn. Add plenty of organic matter to the soil at the rate of 2 bucketfuls to the sq. yd. A week before sowing fork in a little peat substitute at a rate of 1 bucketful to the sq. yd. This will help the soil to be light with good texture suitable for growing lettuce. Add fish and bone meal at 4 oz. (120g) to the sq. yd. If the ground is not chalky also add carbonate of lime over the surface at 5 oz. (150g) to the sq. yd.
Sowing
In the south seed can be sown from the middle of March and a little later in the north in drills 1 ft. apart and at a depth of ½ in. (12mm) make sowings every 14 days until the middle of July; this will ensure a succession of well-hearted lettuce. Seed can be sown in trays in a greenhouse at a temperature of 55 deg F. (13deg. C.) in January if a very early crop is required. They can be transplanted out when they are big enough to be grown on under cloches; by early March they may be set out in rows 9 in. (228mm) apart.
General care
During dry weather water well, thin out the plants where necessary as early as possible allowing 9 in. (228mm) between each plant. Small or dwarf varieties need to be thinned out to only 6 in. (15cm) apart.
Harvesting
Cut those lettuces with fully developed hearts early in the morning using a sharp knife making the cut just below the bottom leaves. Remove all those that have started to bolt or they will run to seed.
Winter Cabbage Lettuces
Lettuces that are grown through winter need well-drained soil; therefore light, sandy loam is best but raised beds are an option. They require shelter and are a suitable crop to grow in the same soil that was well manured for a previous crop, such as potatoes. The only preparation required is to rake the soil over apply fish manure with a 10 per cent potash content at the rate of 3 oz. (90g) to the sq. yd. Bone meal may be used instead with added wood ash at 6 to 7 oz. (210g) to the sq. yd.
Sowing
Seeds should be sown in rows 1 ft. apart and not more than ½ in. (12mm) deep in early September. Sow thinly, the resultant plants should be allowed 5 in. (127mm) between each plant, ensure that any thinning out is done before the winter sets in. If during the time of sowing, the ground where they are to grow is not yet ready, being occupied by another crop, the seeds can be sown in trays until the time comes to plant them into their true position. Cloches should be placed over the plants to give them protection during the long winter months.
General Care
Keep the soil free from weeds. Early March of the following year dried blood may be given at 5 oz. (150g) to the sq. yd. This should be applied between each row taking care not to put any onto the plants.
gardening
Harvesting
The lettuces can be cut as soon as they are ready and when they are required, the first should normally be ready about May or June.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
It is perfectly possible by growing several varieties, to harvest lettuces out-of-doors from May until late October. They can then later be grown under cloches. Few salad dishes are complete without some type of crisp lettuce, rich in vitamins and minerals. Most have a mild flavour but Rocket, my own personal favourite has a strong peppery bite to it, even a few leaves added to the mildest variety gives added flavour to a salad.
The best results are obtained by sowing the seed in rich, well-manured soil where the plants are to grow. There are two main types of lettuce, cabbage and cos, but many varieties of both. Tall, short, dwarf, "butterhead" "iceberg" and many more, all shades of green and even red make up the varieties.
Summer Cabbage Lettuce
Soil Preparation
The soil should be prepared in the previous autumn. Add plenty of organic matter to the soil at the rate of 2 bucketfuls to the sq. yd. A week before sowing fork in a little peat substitute at a rate of 1 bucketful to the sq. yd. This will help the soil to be light with good texture suitable for growing lettuce. Add fish and bone meal at 4 oz. (120g) to the sq. yd. If the ground is not chalky also add carbonate of lime over the surface at 5 oz. (150g) to the sq. yd.
Sowing
In the south seed can be sown from the middle of March and a little later in the north in drills 1 ft. apart and at a depth of ½ in. (12mm) make sowings every 14 days until the middle of July; this will ensure a succession of well-hearted lettuce. Seed can be sown in trays in a greenhouse at a temperature of 55 deg F. (13deg. C.) in January if a very early crop is required. They can be transplanted out when they are big enough to be grown on under cloches; by early March they may be set out in rows 9 in. (228mm) apart.
General care
During dry weather water well, thin out the plants where necessary as early as possible allowing 9 in. (228mm) between each plant. Small or dwarf varieties need to be thinned out to only 6 in. (15cm) apart.
Harvesting
Cut those lettuces with fully developed hearts early in the morning using a sharp knife making the cut just below the bottom leaves. Remove all those that have started to bolt or they will run to seed.
Winter Cabbage Lettuces
Lettuces that are grown through winter need well-drained soil; therefore light, sandy loam is best but raised beds are an option. They require shelter and are a suitable crop to grow in the same soil that was well manured for a previous crop, such as potatoes. The only preparation required is to rake the soil over apply fish manure with a 10 per cent potash content at the rate of 3 oz. (90g) to the sq. yd. Bone meal may be used instead with added wood ash at 6 to 7 oz. (210g) to the sq. yd.
Sowing
Seeds should be sown in rows 1 ft. apart and not more than ½ in. (12mm) deep in early September. Sow thinly, the resultant plants should be allowed 5 in. (127mm) between each plant, ensure that any thinning out is done before the winter sets in. If during the time of sowing, the ground where they are to grow is not yet ready, being occupied by another crop, the seeds can be sown in trays until the time comes to plant them into their true position. Cloches should be placed over the plants to give them protection during the long winter months.
General Care
Keep the soil free from weeds. Early March of the following year dried blood may be given at 5 oz. (150g) to the sq. yd. This should be applied between each row taking care not to put any onto the plants.
gardening
Harvesting
The lettuces can be cut as soon as they are ready and when they are required, the first should normally be ready about May or June.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Wednesday, December 20, 2006
Gardening - How to Grow Leeks!
gardening
Growing Leeks
Phoenician traders introduced the leek to Wales when they engaged in the tin trade in the British Isles- a casual act that would unexpectedly elevate this humble plant to national status. Legend has it that in 640 AD, invading Saxons, sorely pressed the Briton King Cadwallader. To distinguish themselves from the enemy, the Welsh wore leeks in their hats--and subsequently gained a great victory over their enemies. Since that time, the Welsh have proudly eaten and worn the distinctive vegetable as a matter of national pride.
The leek is a member of the onion family, but is milder than either onions or garlic. Unlike onions or garlic, leeks do not form bulbs or produce cloves but develop an edible 6 to 10 in. (152mm - 254mm) long round stem as much as 2 in.(50mm) in diameter. The leek has leaves very similar to garlic. They are flat rather than round and hollow like onion leaves. Leeks are undoubtedly one of the easiest vegetables to grow. They can be made into soups, stews and broths with, or in place of onions.
Soil Preparation
Leeks do perfectly well in any soil, though good, deep loam is best. It is important that they have well-drained soil; they will not tolerate stagnant soil conditions. Add lime as a surface dressing before planting out. To prepare the ground, dig in some well-rotted manure or compost at the rate of one bucketful to 8 sq. yds. bury it down to a spades depth. Two weeks before planting add fish and bone manure at a rate of 3 oz. (90g) to the sq. yd.
Sowing
Late March make shallow drills ½ in. (12mm) deep and 6 in. (15cm) apart, sowing the seeds thinly. Earlier sowings can be made as early as January if the seeds are sown in trays and kept in the greenhouse at a temperature of 55 deg F. (13 deg C.). Keep them in the greenhouse until March then begin to harden them off in a cold frame; they can then be planted out either late April or early May.
Planting
Leeks can be planted into trenches or at ground level. To plant in trenches dig out to 1 ft. (30cm) deep and 1 ft. (30cm) wide adding manure or compost to the trench to a depth of 4 in. (101mm). Put back 3 in. (76mm) of the soil leaving the remainder on either side of the trench. Insert the plants 1 ft. (30cm) apart down the centre of the trench, burying the roots about 1 in. (25mm) deep; the trenches should be 1 ½ ft. (45cm) apart. The plants will now be standing at a lower level than the surrounding soil.
General Care
Keep down the weeds with a hoe. Three weeks after planting apply fish or poultry manure at the rate of 2 oz (60g) to the yard. Cut off any flower stems that appear. Make sure that they have enough water; in dry weather they must be watered allowing the roots a thorough wetting.
Where leeks are grown in trenches they need to be gradually earthed up. Add about 1 in. (25mm) of soil to the trench a month after planting and this should continue on a monthly basis taking the soil from either side of each trench; do not bury the leaves themselves. It is a good idea to wrap corrugated cardboard around the stems, loosely tied with soft twine before earthing up; this procedure helps to prevent grit from collecting between the leaves.
Harvesting
The first leeks are normally ready during October. Loosen the soil around the stem with a fork before pulling it out. Keep those leeks that are not yet ready covered so that they remain in the dark. When the roots are cut off the vegetable, put them onto the compost heap, for they make excellent compost.
Preparation
Leeks should be thoroughly washed to remove grit and sand, which accumulates under the outer layers of the leaves. If desired, split the leek in half lengthwise to aid in the removal of grit. Leeks are then ready for use. They may be eaten raw in salad combinations or cooked. Cooking time will vary according to the leek's diameter and age. When the base can be easily pierced with a knife, the leeks are ready. Avoid overcooking which makes them tough. They have acquired fame in soups and stews, but exhibit their versatility served au gratin, creamed, sautéed alone or in combination with other fresh vegetables.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog
http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Growing Leeks
Phoenician traders introduced the leek to Wales when they engaged in the tin trade in the British Isles- a casual act that would unexpectedly elevate this humble plant to national status. Legend has it that in 640 AD, invading Saxons, sorely pressed the Briton King Cadwallader. To distinguish themselves from the enemy, the Welsh wore leeks in their hats--and subsequently gained a great victory over their enemies. Since that time, the Welsh have proudly eaten and worn the distinctive vegetable as a matter of national pride.
The leek is a member of the onion family, but is milder than either onions or garlic. Unlike onions or garlic, leeks do not form bulbs or produce cloves but develop an edible 6 to 10 in. (152mm - 254mm) long round stem as much as 2 in.(50mm) in diameter. The leek has leaves very similar to garlic. They are flat rather than round and hollow like onion leaves. Leeks are undoubtedly one of the easiest vegetables to grow. They can be made into soups, stews and broths with, or in place of onions.
Soil Preparation
Leeks do perfectly well in any soil, though good, deep loam is best. It is important that they have well-drained soil; they will not tolerate stagnant soil conditions. Add lime as a surface dressing before planting out. To prepare the ground, dig in some well-rotted manure or compost at the rate of one bucketful to 8 sq. yds. bury it down to a spades depth. Two weeks before planting add fish and bone manure at a rate of 3 oz. (90g) to the sq. yd.
Sowing
Late March make shallow drills ½ in. (12mm) deep and 6 in. (15cm) apart, sowing the seeds thinly. Earlier sowings can be made as early as January if the seeds are sown in trays and kept in the greenhouse at a temperature of 55 deg F. (13 deg C.). Keep them in the greenhouse until March then begin to harden them off in a cold frame; they can then be planted out either late April or early May.
Planting
Leeks can be planted into trenches or at ground level. To plant in trenches dig out to 1 ft. (30cm) deep and 1 ft. (30cm) wide adding manure or compost to the trench to a depth of 4 in. (101mm). Put back 3 in. (76mm) of the soil leaving the remainder on either side of the trench. Insert the plants 1 ft. (30cm) apart down the centre of the trench, burying the roots about 1 in. (25mm) deep; the trenches should be 1 ½ ft. (45cm) apart. The plants will now be standing at a lower level than the surrounding soil.
General Care
Keep down the weeds with a hoe. Three weeks after planting apply fish or poultry manure at the rate of 2 oz (60g) to the yard. Cut off any flower stems that appear. Make sure that they have enough water; in dry weather they must be watered allowing the roots a thorough wetting.
Where leeks are grown in trenches they need to be gradually earthed up. Add about 1 in. (25mm) of soil to the trench a month after planting and this should continue on a monthly basis taking the soil from either side of each trench; do not bury the leaves themselves. It is a good idea to wrap corrugated cardboard around the stems, loosely tied with soft twine before earthing up; this procedure helps to prevent grit from collecting between the leaves.
Harvesting
The first leeks are normally ready during October. Loosen the soil around the stem with a fork before pulling it out. Keep those leeks that are not yet ready covered so that they remain in the dark. When the roots are cut off the vegetable, put them onto the compost heap, for they make excellent compost.
Preparation
Leeks should be thoroughly washed to remove grit and sand, which accumulates under the outer layers of the leaves. If desired, split the leek in half lengthwise to aid in the removal of grit. Leeks are then ready for use. They may be eaten raw in salad combinations or cooked. Cooking time will vary according to the leek's diameter and age. When the base can be easily pierced with a knife, the leeks are ready. Avoid overcooking which makes them tough. They have acquired fame in soups and stews, but exhibit their versatility served au gratin, creamed, sautéed alone or in combination with other fresh vegetables.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog
http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Tuesday, December 19, 2006
Gardening - How to Grow Kohl Rabi!
gardening
Growing Kohl Rabi
This vegetable is a member of the turnip family and, for that reason, is also called cabbage turnip. Like the turnip, both its purple-tinged, or white bulblike swollen stem and its greens are edible. The kohl rabi bulb tastes like a mild, sweet turnip with a slight nutty flavour. It's available from mid-spring to mid autumn. Those roots that are about 3 in. (76mm) in diameter are grown above the ground and are very tender.
It must be encouraged to grow quickly so that it will be tender, therefore it must be grown in fertile, moisture, retentive soil, in a position where it will get plenty of sun.
Soil Preparation
Kohl Rabi will grow on most soils providing it is well cultivated and preferably alkaline; it will tolerate a pH in the range 4.5 to 7.5. It does best in soils, which were well manured, for a previous crop. At the time of sowing add a dressing of fish manure with 6 per cent potash content at 3 oz. (90g) to the sq. yd. After forking over the soil lightly, tread the ground making it firm, and then add fish manure at 3 oz. (90g) to the sq. yd. If the soil is not limy, give carbonate of lime at 6 oz. (180g) to the sq. yd. as a top dressing.
Sowing
The seeds can be sown from March to July thinly in drills, which are 1 ½ ft. (45cm) apart, at a depth of 1 in. (25mm). However, should the temperatures be low during March, then it would be better to delay sowing as the young growing plants are sensitive to low temperatures. Even a week at a temperature in the region of 10 deg. C. will cause the plants to bolt. However, once over this initial period, the crop is very hardy indeed. Later thin out to allow the seedlings to be 1 ft (30cm) apart by the time they reach 1 in. (25mm) high. Should you wish to have year round harvesting, the seeds, which are to mature during the winter, can be sown under cover, then hardened off and planted in their growing bed; as they are very hardy once established they are quite capable of withstanding frost and winter conditions.
Companion planting
Kohl rabi grows well with onions also cucumbers and herbs. However it does not do well if grown with runner beans, tomatoes or strawberries.
General Care
Keep down the weeds by hoeing and make sure that they are kept well watered.
Harvesting
Because they are quick growing reaching maturity 8 weeks after sowing, it is better to make small consecutive sowings to keep the vegetable available in the peak of condition when they are young and tender.
Varieties:
White: (really light green) Early White Vienna Express Forcer Grand Duke Kolpak Triumph Quickstart
Purple: Blaro Danub Early Purple Vienna Rapid
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Growing Kohl Rabi
This vegetable is a member of the turnip family and, for that reason, is also called cabbage turnip. Like the turnip, both its purple-tinged, or white bulblike swollen stem and its greens are edible. The kohl rabi bulb tastes like a mild, sweet turnip with a slight nutty flavour. It's available from mid-spring to mid autumn. Those roots that are about 3 in. (76mm) in diameter are grown above the ground and are very tender.
It must be encouraged to grow quickly so that it will be tender, therefore it must be grown in fertile, moisture, retentive soil, in a position where it will get plenty of sun.
Soil Preparation
Kohl Rabi will grow on most soils providing it is well cultivated and preferably alkaline; it will tolerate a pH in the range 4.5 to 7.5. It does best in soils, which were well manured, for a previous crop. At the time of sowing add a dressing of fish manure with 6 per cent potash content at 3 oz. (90g) to the sq. yd. After forking over the soil lightly, tread the ground making it firm, and then add fish manure at 3 oz. (90g) to the sq. yd. If the soil is not limy, give carbonate of lime at 6 oz. (180g) to the sq. yd. as a top dressing.
Sowing
The seeds can be sown from March to July thinly in drills, which are 1 ½ ft. (45cm) apart, at a depth of 1 in. (25mm). However, should the temperatures be low during March, then it would be better to delay sowing as the young growing plants are sensitive to low temperatures. Even a week at a temperature in the region of 10 deg. C. will cause the plants to bolt. However, once over this initial period, the crop is very hardy indeed. Later thin out to allow the seedlings to be 1 ft (30cm) apart by the time they reach 1 in. (25mm) high. Should you wish to have year round harvesting, the seeds, which are to mature during the winter, can be sown under cover, then hardened off and planted in their growing bed; as they are very hardy once established they are quite capable of withstanding frost and winter conditions.
Companion planting
Kohl rabi grows well with onions also cucumbers and herbs. However it does not do well if grown with runner beans, tomatoes or strawberries.
General Care
Keep down the weeds by hoeing and make sure that they are kept well watered.
Harvesting
Because they are quick growing reaching maturity 8 weeks after sowing, it is better to make small consecutive sowings to keep the vegetable available in the peak of condition when they are young and tender.
Varieties:
White: (really light green) Early White Vienna Express Forcer Grand Duke Kolpak Triumph Quickstart
Purple: Blaro Danub Early Purple Vienna Rapid
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Monday, December 18, 2006
Gardening - How to Grow Kale!
gardening
Growing Kale
Kale is a most useful winter vegetable and belongs to the cabbage family. It is very hardy and is able to withstand the severest of winters, producing plenty of tops for use during January, February, March and early April. This plant will grow in the poorest of soils but responds favourably to richer soil high in nutrients, and seems not to be troubled by diseases which strike many other winter growing vegetables, especially club root, which attacks brassicas generally; however good drainage is necessary. Kale is rich in beta-carotene, vitamin C, and other substances that protect against cancer. It contains fibre and various minerals (especially iron and calcium- ounce for ounce about as much calcium as whole milk in some cases), and has the richest source of vitamin C among the leafy greens.
Soil Preparation
If you plant early in the year, consider using raised beds to allow better drainage during the winter months. Kale can be planted out after early potatoes or peas without any adding extra fertilizers, however if the soil is particularly poor, rake in some fish manure at 2 oz. (60g) to the sq. yd.
Sowing
It depends on the variety you are sowing as to the time the seeds should be sown, some are sown early during May or June whilst others are sown later in July and August, but generally they are sown in June and July just as many early crops are harvested and the land becomes vacant.
Sowing Indoors
Start your spring crop indoors four to six weeks before planting them outdoors. Plan to plant your seedlings outdoors very early in the season and after the last frost date for your area. Plant seeds in containers 1/2 in. (12mm) deep in sterile starting mix. Water thoroughly once, then lightly after the seeds have sprouted. Provide plenty of sunlight or artificial grow lights so the plants do not become spindly. Boost your plants health with a light application of liquid fertilizer once or twice during this period.
Sowing Outdoors
Seeds can be direct sowed into the row or seeded in a separate area and transplanted to the row after a few weeks. If the seeds are planted together in a seedbed they can be later transplanted into the position where they are to mature and you can then better control the spacing. If you are sowing directly where the Kale is to grow, sow in drills 1 in. (25mm) deep the drills being 2-½ ft. (75cm) apart, putting in three seeds every 2 ft. (60cm) along the drill. Later the seedlings can be thinned out only allowing the strongest one to remain in each station. Whether direct seeding or transplanting make the final spacing 18 to 24 inches (45cm-60cm) apart; the outer leaves of a healthy plant will spread and cover a lot of space.
General Care
Keep down the weeds with a hoe. In dry weather make sure that the vegetable has enough water to make good growth, this is particularly important during the late summer. All members of the cabbage family are extremely susceptible to insects. Kale is no exception. Among the most common are aphids, and cabbage loopers, cabbage loopers the larva stage of a moth. Effective treatment is to place a screen over the plant so the moth cannot lay her eggs. Aphids should be sprayed with a garlic wash to deter them from penetrating the leaves.
Harvesting
Kale should be left to grow unrestricted until it is ready to harvest about the middle of January. Cut out the centre of each plant, which will then encourage the development of side growths. This will provide plenty of leaf until the end of April. Like the other Brassicas, kale's leaves become much sweeter after experiencing a good frost.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Growing Kale
Kale is a most useful winter vegetable and belongs to the cabbage family. It is very hardy and is able to withstand the severest of winters, producing plenty of tops for use during January, February, March and early April. This plant will grow in the poorest of soils but responds favourably to richer soil high in nutrients, and seems not to be troubled by diseases which strike many other winter growing vegetables, especially club root, which attacks brassicas generally; however good drainage is necessary. Kale is rich in beta-carotene, vitamin C, and other substances that protect against cancer. It contains fibre and various minerals (especially iron and calcium- ounce for ounce about as much calcium as whole milk in some cases), and has the richest source of vitamin C among the leafy greens.
Soil Preparation
If you plant early in the year, consider using raised beds to allow better drainage during the winter months. Kale can be planted out after early potatoes or peas without any adding extra fertilizers, however if the soil is particularly poor, rake in some fish manure at 2 oz. (60g) to the sq. yd.
Sowing
It depends on the variety you are sowing as to the time the seeds should be sown, some are sown early during May or June whilst others are sown later in July and August, but generally they are sown in June and July just as many early crops are harvested and the land becomes vacant.
Sowing Indoors
Start your spring crop indoors four to six weeks before planting them outdoors. Plan to plant your seedlings outdoors very early in the season and after the last frost date for your area. Plant seeds in containers 1/2 in. (12mm) deep in sterile starting mix. Water thoroughly once, then lightly after the seeds have sprouted. Provide plenty of sunlight or artificial grow lights so the plants do not become spindly. Boost your plants health with a light application of liquid fertilizer once or twice during this period.
Sowing Outdoors
Seeds can be direct sowed into the row or seeded in a separate area and transplanted to the row after a few weeks. If the seeds are planted together in a seedbed they can be later transplanted into the position where they are to mature and you can then better control the spacing. If you are sowing directly where the Kale is to grow, sow in drills 1 in. (25mm) deep the drills being 2-½ ft. (75cm) apart, putting in three seeds every 2 ft. (60cm) along the drill. Later the seedlings can be thinned out only allowing the strongest one to remain in each station. Whether direct seeding or transplanting make the final spacing 18 to 24 inches (45cm-60cm) apart; the outer leaves of a healthy plant will spread and cover a lot of space.
General Care
Keep down the weeds with a hoe. In dry weather make sure that the vegetable has enough water to make good growth, this is particularly important during the late summer. All members of the cabbage family are extremely susceptible to insects. Kale is no exception. Among the most common are aphids, and cabbage loopers, cabbage loopers the larva stage of a moth. Effective treatment is to place a screen over the plant so the moth cannot lay her eggs. Aphids should be sprayed with a garlic wash to deter them from penetrating the leaves.
Harvesting
Kale should be left to grow unrestricted until it is ready to harvest about the middle of January. Cut out the centre of each plant, which will then encourage the development of side growths. This will provide plenty of leaf until the end of April. Like the other Brassicas, kale's leaves become much sweeter after experiencing a good frost.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Sunday, December 17, 2006
Gardening - How to Grow Garlic!
gardening
Growing Garlic
Garlic (Allium Sativum) is a perennial herb of the Liliaceae (Lilly) family, which has now become one of the essential ingredients in many main course dishes. Not only does it have culinary uses but also many believe in its medical properties. It has proven its usefulness in the garden, giving protection to other plants from marauding insects. This plant with its strong, pungent smell is rich in amino acids, volatile oil, and sulphur compounds; it also contains enzymes and allicin and has anti septic properties. It contains vitamins, A, B1, B2 and C so clearly is a plant well worth growing.
Garlic is fairly easy to grow but the really good garlic is more difficult. If you just want to grow some form of garlic just separate the cloves from a bulb of garlic from the supermarket and plant them into the ground between September and March, it will more than likely grow, but what it wont be is good garlic. If you want to grow healthy, large bulbs and why grow them unless you do, then there is much more to growing garlic than that.
Planting
There are many other varieties than the one we can buy from the supermarkets, others with better flavour and bigger bulbs but they do require different growing conditions so its important to grow the verities that are suitable for your conditions. Size in garlic is determined first by the variety and then by growing conditions; soil conditions and watering are of the utmost importance when growing, excellent, large, healthy garlic.
Soil Preparation
Garlic requires a well-balanced soil that is loose enough for the bulb to grow and expend. What it doesn't like is dry, hard packed clay or thin rocky soils that may restrict its expansion. Prepare the soil a few months before you intend to plant. Plant the cloves during autumn- late September because garlic likes to come up and put a little growth on before the winter sets in. This ensures that it establishes its root system so that it can survive the winter ready to explode with growth in the spring. As the weather warms up in summer the temperatures causes the garlic to bolt, this means that the plant is going to seed. Since garlic does not produce seed, it reproduces by forming as many cloves as its genetics will allow. The bulb gets bigger until the heat of the summer kills off the leaves.
Growing position
Garlic likes to be planted in fertile, well-drained raised beds so that the bulb itself is in the drier part of the soil with its roots down where there is more moisture. If your area gets plenty of rain and snow and very cold winters, then grow your garlic in higher beds. Plant the cloves 4 in. (101mm) deep 6 in. (15cm) apart making sure that the root end is sitting on the bottom, mulch heavily to protect from sub-zero temperatures. Garlic will of course grow in flat ground but raised beds help the plant to fend off disease, which can attach when the bulb sits in water for too long.
General Care
Garlic likes a slightly moist but not wet soil, wet soil encourages disease such as fungus and blight but too little moisture will cause the bulb to dry out and it will not expand. One way of determining the moisture content of the soil is to push your hand down into the root zone and feel the soil at that depth. If your hand comes out dry, it's time to water; if it is muddy and the soil sticks to your hand, it's too wet. In that situation, remove some of the mulch from around the plant, this will allow the soil dry out a little. Do not water during the week before you intend to harvest the crop, as it is easier to pull or dig out garlic from fairly dry soil than it is from wet soil, plus garlic will store better if it is not too wet.
There are few things in nature that give garlic problems because this plant kills or repels most insects, fungi, and many other predators that attack other plants. Therefore it isn't necessary to give protection to the garlic like you would give to other more venerable crops.
Harvesting
The time to harvest will depend on which part of the country you live and the variety of garlic you are growing. Since spring warms up from the south to the north, southern growers will harvest earlier than northern growers. You should remember that it is heat and sun, which causes garlic to mature. A long cool spring will delay growth. Generally speaking, if you planted your cloves in September and you have one of the earlier maturing varieties and the weather has been warm, then by mid-May they should be ready to lift. Northern growers may find that they have to wait a few more weeks.
Hardneck garlic's will send up a stalk or scape as it is correctly called a month or two before harvest time. Softneck garlic's do not unless they are stressed by adverse growing conditions. Garlic leaves signal by turning brown and dying that they have matured. The outermost leaves die first and then the rest die from the ground up. In Softneck varieties the time to harvest is when the outer leaves have all died down and only the top six leaves are still green. It isn't necessary to wait until all the leaves die and fall over like onions do or you will encounter problems to arise when later storing the bulbs. The spores of fungus disease can enter bulbs when they are left in the ground and are over ripe. It also allows the bulb wrappers (thin skin tissue) to rot away leaving the bulbs exposed with nothing left to give protection to the cloves.
The Asiatic group of Artichokes garlic need to be harvested as soon as the lower leaves start to die down, otherwise they will be over-ripe.
To make sure that you time the harvest correctly, you can dig down around a few plants to inspect the bulbs but this exercise must be done with a great deal of care not to damage the roots. When they are ready make sure that they are removed from the ground without injuring the bulbs. If your soil is loose, you can gently pull them up by their necks, otherwise use a fork to gently loosen the surrounding soil by pushing it deeper than the bulbs and lifting with care. Once lifted, handle them carefully, never bang the bulbs together to shake off the soil. Take them out of the sun, as this will dry them out too quickly.
Curing Garlic
Garlic likes to dry gradually to allow excess moisture in the roots and leaves to evaporate or withdraw into the bulb. Wait until the roots and necks are completely dried and it does not emit a typical garlic odour when cut, then that is the time to trim it. It often takes three or four weeks to get to that stage, longer for large bulbs.
Storing Garlic
Store the garlic in a dry place out of the sun but never put them into plastic bags or sealed containers. Some varieties store better and longer than others, Silverskins can be stored longest, with Artichokes second longest but Rocamboles are the shortest storing varieties. There are four factors that affect the storage; how well it was grown and cured, its variety type, temperature and humidity.
You must have noticed that the garlic you buy at the supermarket doesn't keep very long after you take it home. The reason is that they usually store it at 32F. It then stays in limbo and can do so for a few months. Once they put it on their shelves for sale, time like the rest of us catches up with it and it either deteriorates rapidly or starts to sprout. Garlic stores best at 55 - 65 F. and between 40 - 60 % humidity and it is important that there is airflow around the bulbs. Basically, any dark, cool place is fine.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Growing Garlic
Garlic (Allium Sativum) is a perennial herb of the Liliaceae (Lilly) family, which has now become one of the essential ingredients in many main course dishes. Not only does it have culinary uses but also many believe in its medical properties. It has proven its usefulness in the garden, giving protection to other plants from marauding insects. This plant with its strong, pungent smell is rich in amino acids, volatile oil, and sulphur compounds; it also contains enzymes and allicin and has anti septic properties. It contains vitamins, A, B1, B2 and C so clearly is a plant well worth growing.
Garlic is fairly easy to grow but the really good garlic is more difficult. If you just want to grow some form of garlic just separate the cloves from a bulb of garlic from the supermarket and plant them into the ground between September and March, it will more than likely grow, but what it wont be is good garlic. If you want to grow healthy, large bulbs and why grow them unless you do, then there is much more to growing garlic than that.
Planting
There are many other varieties than the one we can buy from the supermarkets, others with better flavour and bigger bulbs but they do require different growing conditions so its important to grow the verities that are suitable for your conditions. Size in garlic is determined first by the variety and then by growing conditions; soil conditions and watering are of the utmost importance when growing, excellent, large, healthy garlic.
Soil Preparation
Garlic requires a well-balanced soil that is loose enough for the bulb to grow and expend. What it doesn't like is dry, hard packed clay or thin rocky soils that may restrict its expansion. Prepare the soil a few months before you intend to plant. Plant the cloves during autumn- late September because garlic likes to come up and put a little growth on before the winter sets in. This ensures that it establishes its root system so that it can survive the winter ready to explode with growth in the spring. As the weather warms up in summer the temperatures causes the garlic to bolt, this means that the plant is going to seed. Since garlic does not produce seed, it reproduces by forming as many cloves as its genetics will allow. The bulb gets bigger until the heat of the summer kills off the leaves.
Growing position
Garlic likes to be planted in fertile, well-drained raised beds so that the bulb itself is in the drier part of the soil with its roots down where there is more moisture. If your area gets plenty of rain and snow and very cold winters, then grow your garlic in higher beds. Plant the cloves 4 in. (101mm) deep 6 in. (15cm) apart making sure that the root end is sitting on the bottom, mulch heavily to protect from sub-zero temperatures. Garlic will of course grow in flat ground but raised beds help the plant to fend off disease, which can attach when the bulb sits in water for too long.
General Care
Garlic likes a slightly moist but not wet soil, wet soil encourages disease such as fungus and blight but too little moisture will cause the bulb to dry out and it will not expand. One way of determining the moisture content of the soil is to push your hand down into the root zone and feel the soil at that depth. If your hand comes out dry, it's time to water; if it is muddy and the soil sticks to your hand, it's too wet. In that situation, remove some of the mulch from around the plant, this will allow the soil dry out a little. Do not water during the week before you intend to harvest the crop, as it is easier to pull or dig out garlic from fairly dry soil than it is from wet soil, plus garlic will store better if it is not too wet.
There are few things in nature that give garlic problems because this plant kills or repels most insects, fungi, and many other predators that attack other plants. Therefore it isn't necessary to give protection to the garlic like you would give to other more venerable crops.
Harvesting
The time to harvest will depend on which part of the country you live and the variety of garlic you are growing. Since spring warms up from the south to the north, southern growers will harvest earlier than northern growers. You should remember that it is heat and sun, which causes garlic to mature. A long cool spring will delay growth. Generally speaking, if you planted your cloves in September and you have one of the earlier maturing varieties and the weather has been warm, then by mid-May they should be ready to lift. Northern growers may find that they have to wait a few more weeks.
Hardneck garlic's will send up a stalk or scape as it is correctly called a month or two before harvest time. Softneck garlic's do not unless they are stressed by adverse growing conditions. Garlic leaves signal by turning brown and dying that they have matured. The outermost leaves die first and then the rest die from the ground up. In Softneck varieties the time to harvest is when the outer leaves have all died down and only the top six leaves are still green. It isn't necessary to wait until all the leaves die and fall over like onions do or you will encounter problems to arise when later storing the bulbs. The spores of fungus disease can enter bulbs when they are left in the ground and are over ripe. It also allows the bulb wrappers (thin skin tissue) to rot away leaving the bulbs exposed with nothing left to give protection to the cloves.
The Asiatic group of Artichokes garlic need to be harvested as soon as the lower leaves start to die down, otherwise they will be over-ripe.
To make sure that you time the harvest correctly, you can dig down around a few plants to inspect the bulbs but this exercise must be done with a great deal of care not to damage the roots. When they are ready make sure that they are removed from the ground without injuring the bulbs. If your soil is loose, you can gently pull them up by their necks, otherwise use a fork to gently loosen the surrounding soil by pushing it deeper than the bulbs and lifting with care. Once lifted, handle them carefully, never bang the bulbs together to shake off the soil. Take them out of the sun, as this will dry them out too quickly.
Curing Garlic
Garlic likes to dry gradually to allow excess moisture in the roots and leaves to evaporate or withdraw into the bulb. Wait until the roots and necks are completely dried and it does not emit a typical garlic odour when cut, then that is the time to trim it. It often takes three or four weeks to get to that stage, longer for large bulbs.
Storing Garlic
Store the garlic in a dry place out of the sun but never put them into plastic bags or sealed containers. Some varieties store better and longer than others, Silverskins can be stored longest, with Artichokes second longest but Rocamboles are the shortest storing varieties. There are four factors that affect the storage; how well it was grown and cured, its variety type, temperature and humidity.
You must have noticed that the garlic you buy at the supermarket doesn't keep very long after you take it home. The reason is that they usually store it at 32F. It then stays in limbo and can do so for a few months. Once they put it on their shelves for sale, time like the rest of us catches up with it and it either deteriorates rapidly or starts to sprout. Garlic stores best at 55 - 65 F. and between 40 - 60 % humidity and it is important that there is airflow around the bulbs. Basically, any dark, cool place is fine.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Gardening - How to Grow Fennel!
gardening
Fennel is an herb, all parts on the plant are edible -- the leaves, stems, seeds and roots. The swollen stems at the base of the plant are the part that we are concerned with here, and why fennel has been included in the list of 'Growing vegetables'. Fennel contains these nutrients: Calcium Magnesium, Phosphorus, Sodium, Folic acid, Vitamin C, Potassium, and Phytoestrogens, and has a subtle anise-like flavour and scent
It can be eaten raw as a salad herb or cooked and served with oil, butter or sauce. Fennel can be cooked simply by cutting the bulb into four, removing the centre core of each quarter, adding a little lemon juice and a small knob of butter and cooking it for about twenty minutes on the high setting in a microwave oven.
Cool weather is best for growing fennel. Seeds germinate best at soil temperatures of 61 to 64 F. The plant has a tendency to bolt (flower prematurely) in warm summer weather. When you are growing fennel for the bulb, select a variety that will grow for a long time before bolting in order to produce better-developed bulbs.
Sowing
Fennel quickly develops a large taproot. The seed can be started indoors, then transplanted outside when quite small, but it is usually a better idea to plant the seeds directly out in the garden. Fennel can be planted either in early spring or in the autumn depending on the variety. The plant generally makes it through winter with no trouble, so seeds can even be planted in late autumn to get the plant growing very early in spring.
General Care
Fennel prefers frequent irrigation for rapid growth. Moisture stress causes the basal stalk to split. Fennel plants are believed to release a chemical that impairs the growth of some other plants, so it should not be grown very close to beans, tomatoes or members of the cabbage family.
Sowing
Sow the seed in spring or autumn, the seeds should be sown in medium to light well-drained soil in a sunny location. Fennel thrives on well-drained loam soil. The seed are sown thinly in rows, which are 1 ft. (30cm) apart. Bulb fennel should be thinned to 10 to 14 in. (254mm-355mm) apart when the seedlings are large enough to handle.
Harvest
Harvest just before flowering, lifting the plant, including the bulbs, roots, and some foliage. Finally, the fennel bulb, with some foliage, is cleaned of soil, washed, and can be stored in a cool place.
Pests:
Fennel competes poorly with weeds. Aphids can cause severe damage so as soon as there is signs of aphids, use a garlic spray to disperse them.
Varieties:
Bulbous, Finacchio, or Florence fennel - Height: about 2 feet. (60cm) Is grown for its enlarged bulb.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
gardening
Fennel is an herb, all parts on the plant are edible -- the leaves, stems, seeds and roots. The swollen stems at the base of the plant are the part that we are concerned with here, and why fennel has been included in the list of 'Growing vegetables'. Fennel contains these nutrients: Calcium Magnesium, Phosphorus, Sodium, Folic acid, Vitamin C, Potassium, and Phytoestrogens, and has a subtle anise-like flavour and scent
It can be eaten raw as a salad herb or cooked and served with oil, butter or sauce. Fennel can be cooked simply by cutting the bulb into four, removing the centre core of each quarter, adding a little lemon juice and a small knob of butter and cooking it for about twenty minutes on the high setting in a microwave oven.
Cool weather is best for growing fennel. Seeds germinate best at soil temperatures of 61 to 64 F. The plant has a tendency to bolt (flower prematurely) in warm summer weather. When you are growing fennel for the bulb, select a variety that will grow for a long time before bolting in order to produce better-developed bulbs.
Sowing
Fennel quickly develops a large taproot. The seed can be started indoors, then transplanted outside when quite small, but it is usually a better idea to plant the seeds directly out in the garden. Fennel can be planted either in early spring or in the autumn depending on the variety. The plant generally makes it through winter with no trouble, so seeds can even be planted in late autumn to get the plant growing very early in spring.
General Care
Fennel prefers frequent irrigation for rapid growth. Moisture stress causes the basal stalk to split. Fennel plants are believed to release a chemical that impairs the growth of some other plants, so it should not be grown very close to beans, tomatoes or members of the cabbage family.
Sowing
Sow the seed in spring or autumn, the seeds should be sown in medium to light well-drained soil in a sunny location. Fennel thrives on well-drained loam soil. The seed are sown thinly in rows, which are 1 ft. (30cm) apart. Bulb fennel should be thinned to 10 to 14 in. (254mm-355mm) apart when the seedlings are large enough to handle.
Harvest
Harvest just before flowering, lifting the plant, including the bulbs, roots, and some foliage. Finally, the fennel bulb, with some foliage, is cleaned of soil, washed, and can be stored in a cool place.
Pests:
Fennel competes poorly with weeds. Aphids can cause severe damage so as soon as there is signs of aphids, use a garlic spray to disperse them.
Varieties:
Bulbous, Finacchio, or Florence fennel - Height: about 2 feet. (60cm) Is grown for its enlarged bulb.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
gardening
Saturday, December 16, 2006
Gardening - How to Grow Cucumbers!
gardening
Growing Cucumbers
All members of the Cucumber family (Gherkins, Melons, Marrows and Pumpkins) have three major requirements - warmth, moisture and a rich soil containing plenty of organic matter. They are not hardy, though some varieties are suitable for outside growing but it does depend on your area and weather conditions.
Soil Preparation for Outdoor Varieties
Cucumbers prefer soils containing plenty of organic matter; they do best in positions where there is shelter from cold winds and they must have a sunny site. When preparing the ground, add plenty of manure and compost where the plants are to grow. Begin by digging a trench 9 in. (228mm) deep put in the manure then dig another putting the soil from this into the first trench. This will form a ridge; the cucumbers can be planted into the ridges, 3 ft. (90cm) apart.
Sowing Under Cover
Sow the seed mid March through to late May putting the seeds into trays or small pots ½ in. (12mm) deep, at a temperature of 70 to 75 deg F. (21 to 24 deg C.) germination takes 3 - 15 days at these temperatures. Later transplant the seedlings singularly into 5 in. pots. Gradually reduce the temperature down to 65 f. (18 C.) If you are growing the outdoor varieties begin to harden them off before putting the young plants into cold frames at the end of May. Plant them out after about two or three weeks along the ridges when the chance of frost has passed.
Greenhouse Growing
When the seedlings have reached the four-leaf stage re-pot into either large pots or grow-bags. If you are using grow-bags allow three plants per bag. Train the main stem up wires to give the plant support. Stretch training wires from end to end of the greenhouse12 in. 30cm) apart and 12 in. (30cm) from the glass; tie strings every 2 ft. (60cm) at right-angles to the wires, train the leader growths towards the ridge of the house. Tie side shoots to the wires and stop at second leaf; stop sub-laterals at first leaf. Give them shade in sunny weather
Planting Outdoors
Water the pots well before planting out. Avoid holding the plants by their stems as they are easily bruised causing them irreparable damage. If the weather is cool cover each plant with a cloche for the first week to give them a little warmth and protection. One of the best methods I find is to use a half of a clear plastic 5 litre mineral bottle. Cut in half, the bottle makes two excellent cloches. The top half, whilst giving protection also allows air and moisture through the neck onto the plants.
General care
Cucumbers require plenty of water so that they are able to grow and fully develop, soak the roots thoroughly and regularly. Greenhouse grown plants should be sprayed during hot weather to maintain a high humidity, and fed weekly with a good liquid fertiliser. Those growing outdoors must be given extra protection against the surface roots drying out; grass clippings can be used as mulch. They are generally trouble free if the summer is a good one, however slugs can sometimes be a problem; to be on the safe side position a few slug traps around the base of the plants.
Male and female flowers are produced, but male flowers are picked off as they appear, this is to prevent pollination of the females for pollinated female flowers produce bitter cucumbers with large seeds. Just as soon as the first fruits are about 3 in. (76mm) long, begin to give the plants a weekly feed of liquid fertilizer.
Harvesting
Cut the fruits as soon as they ready, the size will depend on the variety which you are growing. They can be cut regularly for this will encourage the plant to produce more fruit. Cucumbers keep well, so they can be cut and kept for a while without coming to any harm.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Growing Cucumbers
All members of the Cucumber family (Gherkins, Melons, Marrows and Pumpkins) have three major requirements - warmth, moisture and a rich soil containing plenty of organic matter. They are not hardy, though some varieties are suitable for outside growing but it does depend on your area and weather conditions.
Soil Preparation for Outdoor Varieties
Cucumbers prefer soils containing plenty of organic matter; they do best in positions where there is shelter from cold winds and they must have a sunny site. When preparing the ground, add plenty of manure and compost where the plants are to grow. Begin by digging a trench 9 in. (228mm) deep put in the manure then dig another putting the soil from this into the first trench. This will form a ridge; the cucumbers can be planted into the ridges, 3 ft. (90cm) apart.
Sowing Under Cover
Sow the seed mid March through to late May putting the seeds into trays or small pots ½ in. (12mm) deep, at a temperature of 70 to 75 deg F. (21 to 24 deg C.) germination takes 3 - 15 days at these temperatures. Later transplant the seedlings singularly into 5 in. pots. Gradually reduce the temperature down to 65 f. (18 C.) If you are growing the outdoor varieties begin to harden them off before putting the young plants into cold frames at the end of May. Plant them out after about two or three weeks along the ridges when the chance of frost has passed.
Greenhouse Growing
When the seedlings have reached the four-leaf stage re-pot into either large pots or grow-bags. If you are using grow-bags allow three plants per bag. Train the main stem up wires to give the plant support. Stretch training wires from end to end of the greenhouse12 in. 30cm) apart and 12 in. (30cm) from the glass; tie strings every 2 ft. (60cm) at right-angles to the wires, train the leader growths towards the ridge of the house. Tie side shoots to the wires and stop at second leaf; stop sub-laterals at first leaf. Give them shade in sunny weather
Planting Outdoors
Water the pots well before planting out. Avoid holding the plants by their stems as they are easily bruised causing them irreparable damage. If the weather is cool cover each plant with a cloche for the first week to give them a little warmth and protection. One of the best methods I find is to use a half of a clear plastic 5 litre mineral bottle. Cut in half, the bottle makes two excellent cloches. The top half, whilst giving protection also allows air and moisture through the neck onto the plants.
General care
Cucumbers require plenty of water so that they are able to grow and fully develop, soak the roots thoroughly and regularly. Greenhouse grown plants should be sprayed during hot weather to maintain a high humidity, and fed weekly with a good liquid fertiliser. Those growing outdoors must be given extra protection against the surface roots drying out; grass clippings can be used as mulch. They are generally trouble free if the summer is a good one, however slugs can sometimes be a problem; to be on the safe side position a few slug traps around the base of the plants.
Male and female flowers are produced, but male flowers are picked off as they appear, this is to prevent pollination of the females for pollinated female flowers produce bitter cucumbers with large seeds. Just as soon as the first fruits are about 3 in. (76mm) long, begin to give the plants a weekly feed of liquid fertilizer.
Harvesting
Cut the fruits as soon as they ready, the size will depend on the variety which you are growing. They can be cut regularly for this will encourage the plant to produce more fruit. Cucumbers keep well, so they can be cut and kept for a while without coming to any harm.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Friday, December 15, 2006
Gardening - How to Grow Courgettes!
gardening
Growing Courgettes
Courgettes are a firm fleshy vegetable, which has grown in popularity over the years. It is in the gaud section of the cucumber family, which includes marrows, squashes and pumpkins. Courgettes are an easy crop to grow; children are fascinated with their flowers and excited by the crops rapid growth. Plants like these kindle interest in gardening at an early age which gives hope for the future, for once the passion for growing plants and good quality home grown foods has been kindled, it generally continues throughout a person's life.
Courgettes are best eaten soon after harvesting them when they are fresh and at the peak of their flavour. In cooking, courgettes can be boiled, steamed, baked, fried, grilled and roasted. They have a delicate flavour so can be cooked with herbs to add variety.
Soil Preparation
Courgettes prefer heavier soils; they do best in positions where there is shelter from cold winds and they must have a sunny site. When preparing the ground, add plenty of manure and compost where the plants are to grow. Begin by digging a trench 4 in. (101mm) deep put in the manure then dig another putting the soil from this into the first trench. This will form a ridge; the courgettes can be planted into the ridges, 3 ft. (90cm) apart.
Sowing Under Cover
Sow the seed mid March through to late May putting two seeds into the pot ½ in. (12mm) deep, at a temperature of 65 to 70 deg F. (18 to 21 deg C.) the weaker one can be removed if they both germinate. Harden off the young plants by putting the first sowing into cold frames at the end of May. Plant them out after about two or three weeks along the ridges when the chance of frost has passed.
Sowing Direct
Sowing direst into the ground where they are to grow sowing two seeds per station, this can be done in mid May until early June at about 3 ft. (90cm) apart. When the seeds have germinated they can be thinned out removing the less vigorous seedling.
Planting
Water the pots well before planting out. Avoid holding the plants by their stems as they are easily bruised causing them irreparable damage. If the weather is cool cover each plant with a cloche for the first week to give them a little warmth and protection. One of the best methods I find is to use a half of a clear plastic 5 litre mineral bottle. Cut into half, the bottle makes two excellent cloches. The top half, whilst giving protection also allows air and moisture through the neck of the bottle onto the plants. To prevent flying insects entering through the neck, I secure a small piece of fleece with an elastic band.
General care
Courgettes require plenty of water so that they are able to grow and fully develop, soak the roots thoroughly and regularly. For extra protection against the surface roots from drying out, grass clippings can be used as mulch. They are generally trouble free if the summer is a good one, however slugs can sometimes be a problem; to be on the safe side, position a few slug traps around the base of the plants. Cold conditions could restrict the activity of pollinating insects and so the fruits may fail to set. Should this happen it may be necessary to assist with pollination by removing a male flower and gently brush it against the female flowers, which can be distinguished from those of the male, by the slight swelling behind the flower.
Harvesting
In a good summer, courgettes can often be cut in August; keep cutting them when they are about 4 to 6 in. (101mm-15cm) long, do not be tempted to leave them longer because the flavour will not be quite as good. The plants will continue cropping until well into September. Use a sharp knife to cut the fruits from the plants, twisting or pulling will often damage the stem and possibly the whole plant.
Varieties to Try:
'Ambassador': Good flavour with a high yield.
'Defender': Has good resistance to cucumber mosaic virus, heavy cropper.
'Gold Rush': Yellow skinned variety.
'Tondo di Nizza': Spherical fruits
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Growing Courgettes
Courgettes are a firm fleshy vegetable, which has grown in popularity over the years. It is in the gaud section of the cucumber family, which includes marrows, squashes and pumpkins. Courgettes are an easy crop to grow; children are fascinated with their flowers and excited by the crops rapid growth. Plants like these kindle interest in gardening at an early age which gives hope for the future, for once the passion for growing plants and good quality home grown foods has been kindled, it generally continues throughout a person's life.
Courgettes are best eaten soon after harvesting them when they are fresh and at the peak of their flavour. In cooking, courgettes can be boiled, steamed, baked, fried, grilled and roasted. They have a delicate flavour so can be cooked with herbs to add variety.
Soil Preparation
Courgettes prefer heavier soils; they do best in positions where there is shelter from cold winds and they must have a sunny site. When preparing the ground, add plenty of manure and compost where the plants are to grow. Begin by digging a trench 4 in. (101mm) deep put in the manure then dig another putting the soil from this into the first trench. This will form a ridge; the courgettes can be planted into the ridges, 3 ft. (90cm) apart.
Sowing Under Cover
Sow the seed mid March through to late May putting two seeds into the pot ½ in. (12mm) deep, at a temperature of 65 to 70 deg F. (18 to 21 deg C.) the weaker one can be removed if they both germinate. Harden off the young plants by putting the first sowing into cold frames at the end of May. Plant them out after about two or three weeks along the ridges when the chance of frost has passed.
Sowing Direct
Sowing direst into the ground where they are to grow sowing two seeds per station, this can be done in mid May until early June at about 3 ft. (90cm) apart. When the seeds have germinated they can be thinned out removing the less vigorous seedling.
Planting
Water the pots well before planting out. Avoid holding the plants by their stems as they are easily bruised causing them irreparable damage. If the weather is cool cover each plant with a cloche for the first week to give them a little warmth and protection. One of the best methods I find is to use a half of a clear plastic 5 litre mineral bottle. Cut into half, the bottle makes two excellent cloches. The top half, whilst giving protection also allows air and moisture through the neck of the bottle onto the plants. To prevent flying insects entering through the neck, I secure a small piece of fleece with an elastic band.
General care
Courgettes require plenty of water so that they are able to grow and fully develop, soak the roots thoroughly and regularly. For extra protection against the surface roots from drying out, grass clippings can be used as mulch. They are generally trouble free if the summer is a good one, however slugs can sometimes be a problem; to be on the safe side, position a few slug traps around the base of the plants. Cold conditions could restrict the activity of pollinating insects and so the fruits may fail to set. Should this happen it may be necessary to assist with pollination by removing a male flower and gently brush it against the female flowers, which can be distinguished from those of the male, by the slight swelling behind the flower.
Harvesting
In a good summer, courgettes can often be cut in August; keep cutting them when they are about 4 to 6 in. (101mm-15cm) long, do not be tempted to leave them longer because the flavour will not be quite as good. The plants will continue cropping until well into September. Use a sharp knife to cut the fruits from the plants, twisting or pulling will often damage the stem and possibly the whole plant.
Varieties to Try:
'Ambassador': Good flavour with a high yield.
'Defender': Has good resistance to cucumber mosaic virus, heavy cropper.
'Gold Rush': Yellow skinned variety.
'Tondo di Nizza': Spherical fruits
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Gardening - How to Grow Chicory!
gardening
Growing Chicory
Chicory is grown as a salad crop and is forced in the dark. This particular chicory should not be confused with the Magdeburg chicory that has thick roots, which are roasted and blended with coffee, nor is it the form that is found in hedgerows and herbaceous borders.
Soil Preparation
Chicory does best in soil that is rich, light and loamy but can be grown in other soil if it is well manured and enriched with organic matter during the spring. The ground should be forked over lightly then trodden firm, an application of fish manure is then added with 6 per cent potash content at 3 oz. (90g) to the sq. yd. Give a lime dressing 6 oz. (180g) to the sq. yd., if the soil is not already chalky.
Sowing
It is generally sown in May in the north but June in the south. Sow the seed thinly in drills 1 in. (25mm) deep in rows that are 1 ½ ft. (45cm) apart. About three weeks after sowing begin to thin out the seedlings so that they have 1 ft. (30cm) between each plant.
General Care
Keep down the weeds with a hoe and to ensure that the surface soil is fine to deter weeds. The roots are lifted in October, November and December for forcing. Store the roots in a frost proof shed and in the following few weeks force a few at a time.
Forcing
To force the chicory, cut off the tops to within an inch of the crown; then pot up 2 to 3 in. (50mm-76mm) apart in any fine soil. This is best done by inserting about 4 roots, to an 8 in. (203mm) pot with the crowns 1 in. (25mm) above the soil. The pots need to be kept at a constant temperature of 50 deg F. (10 deg C.) Place an upturned pot of the same size over the top but the drainage hole of this pot must be bunged up to prevent any light entering. The point of this is to encourage the plants to grow again so that they produce fine hearts of pale leaves, known as "chicons". Wait until these are about 6 in. long then cut them for they will be ready to use; this period of forcing will take about 3 to 5 weeks. To maintain a succession of "chicons" over the winter, pot a dozen or so roots every week. If the roots are left in the pots after cutting, they will throw up more leaves but these will not have a heart, even so they can still be used. However after two cuttings the roots will be finished.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Growing Chicory
Chicory is grown as a salad crop and is forced in the dark. This particular chicory should not be confused with the Magdeburg chicory that has thick roots, which are roasted and blended with coffee, nor is it the form that is found in hedgerows and herbaceous borders.
Soil Preparation
Chicory does best in soil that is rich, light and loamy but can be grown in other soil if it is well manured and enriched with organic matter during the spring. The ground should be forked over lightly then trodden firm, an application of fish manure is then added with 6 per cent potash content at 3 oz. (90g) to the sq. yd. Give a lime dressing 6 oz. (180g) to the sq. yd., if the soil is not already chalky.
Sowing
It is generally sown in May in the north but June in the south. Sow the seed thinly in drills 1 in. (25mm) deep in rows that are 1 ½ ft. (45cm) apart. About three weeks after sowing begin to thin out the seedlings so that they have 1 ft. (30cm) between each plant.
General Care
Keep down the weeds with a hoe and to ensure that the surface soil is fine to deter weeds. The roots are lifted in October, November and December for forcing. Store the roots in a frost proof shed and in the following few weeks force a few at a time.
Forcing
To force the chicory, cut off the tops to within an inch of the crown; then pot up 2 to 3 in. (50mm-76mm) apart in any fine soil. This is best done by inserting about 4 roots, to an 8 in. (203mm) pot with the crowns 1 in. (25mm) above the soil. The pots need to be kept at a constant temperature of 50 deg F. (10 deg C.) Place an upturned pot of the same size over the top but the drainage hole of this pot must be bunged up to prevent any light entering. The point of this is to encourage the plants to grow again so that they produce fine hearts of pale leaves, known as "chicons". Wait until these are about 6 in. long then cut them for they will be ready to use; this period of forcing will take about 3 to 5 weeks. To maintain a succession of "chicons" over the winter, pot a dozen or so roots every week. If the roots are left in the pots after cutting, they will throw up more leaves but these will not have a heart, even so they can still be used. However after two cuttings the roots will be finished.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Thursday, December 14, 2006
Gardening - How to Grow Celery!
gardening
Growing Celery
Celery is a vegetable that is popular with the health conscious. It is almost absent of calories, yet contains important vitamins and minerals. Dieters often munch on it all day long, in the certain knowledge that it will not head straight for their hips. While some people complain that it has little taste, it's that mild flavour that makes it such a great tool for dipping into your favourite dip, salad dressing, or sauce. It also adds a little crunch to any recipe. Celery can be eaten uncooked in salads, it has a wonderfully clean, fresh taste; it can be boiled, steamed or used in a main course dish, added to stews or made into soup.
Celery requires a longer growing season, lots of water and prefers cooler temperatures. It is a biennial plant (Apium graveolens) of the family Umbelliferae or parsley family, It was first cultivated for medicinal use, then (during the Middle Ages) as a flavouring and finally as a food, chiefly for soups and salads; the seeds are still used for seasoning.
Soil Preparation
As celery requires a great deal of water, it does best in soil, which is water retentive. The bed where celery is to grow should be prepared during December or January, if of course weather permits. Dig out a trench 1 ½ ft. (45cm) wide and 16 in. (406mm) deep. Put the soil on either side of the trench so that two ridges are formed. Smooth out the top of each ridge with the back of the spade and pat down slightly to make it firm. The top of the ridges is the perfect place to sow a catch crop such as radish, lettuce or spinach, which will allow the vegetable garden to be made full use of the available space. Ridges should have at least 2-½ ft (75cm) between them. Into the bottom of the trench put a 6 in. layer of well-rotted manure and compost. On top add 5 in. (127mm) of soil this should fill the trench to within 6 in. (15cm) of surface level. Apply fish manure over the soil at a rate of 4 oz. (120g) to the yard run. As the celery grows it will require several feeds with a liquid manure to bust up the growth.
Sowing
Always purchase disease-free seed that is resistant to blight because celery is particularly susceptible to this disease. Sow the seeds in the middle of February in trays of John Innes seed compost at a temperature of 60 to 65 deg F. (16 to 18deg C.) in a greenhouse. Cover the tray with a piece of glass which should be lifted each day and the underside wiped dry. As soon as the seedlings are through the glass should be removed completely. When the seedlings are about ½ in. (12mm) high, prick them out and plant into 3 in (76mm) deep pots in John Innes potting compost No 1. The pots should remain in the greenhouse until late April early may when they can be taken outside and put into a cold frame to harden off. If it is not possible to start them in a greenhouse they can be sown outside under cloches in late March or early April. Leave the seedlings growing under the cloches until they are planted out into the trenches.
Planting
The plants should be about 3 or 4 in. (76mm-101mm) by early June, that is the time to plant them into the trenches. In the centre of the bottom of the trench, make holes with a trowel 1 ft. (30cm) apart then plant the young celery plants, firming in the roots. Half fill the trench with water after planting to ensure that the roots are in firmly.
General care
If the weather is dry, soak the trench again in ten days after planting out; this will prevent the roots from drying out, as this must not be allowed to happen. After a month, start to use a liquid feed every ten days. Keep the area free from weeds and remove any side growths coming up from the base of the plants. It is important to cover the tops of the plants with straw, then over the straw place cloches in readiness for winter protection; it will prevent water from trickling down into the celery hearts, as this will inevitably rot the celery from the insides.
Earthing Up
Begin to earth up the plants in the middle of August when they reach about 1 ft. (30cm) high. Use the soil from the top of the ridges to add into the trenches to a depth of 6 in. (15cm). To avoid soil from falling into the centre of the plants between the stems, take hold of the plant in one hand, bringing the stems together, whilst pushing the soil around them with the other. The next earthing up can be done about three weeks later. Pat the sides of the earthed up trench with the back of the spade so that they are sloping smoothly away from the plants. This will help the rain to run off without soaking the top. The third earthing up is done in October and again ensure that the sides are smooth and steep. Water is required at the roots of the plants; therefore a length of pipe inserted into the ground close by each plant, will allow the water when poured down the pipe to reach the roots.
Harvesting
Celery stems should be white before they are eaten. To achieve this, it will take about 8 weeks after earthing up has begun. When removing celery, make sure that soil is put into its place so that the ridge will not brake up and so expose the adjacent plant.
Self-Blanching Celery
This type of early celery has less flavour and is less hardy than the other. It is grown for use in September and October and must be cleared before any risk of frost. The seed is sown at the end of March, early April and it is ready to use at the end of August - October.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Growing Celery
Celery is a vegetable that is popular with the health conscious. It is almost absent of calories, yet contains important vitamins and minerals. Dieters often munch on it all day long, in the certain knowledge that it will not head straight for their hips. While some people complain that it has little taste, it's that mild flavour that makes it such a great tool for dipping into your favourite dip, salad dressing, or sauce. It also adds a little crunch to any recipe. Celery can be eaten uncooked in salads, it has a wonderfully clean, fresh taste; it can be boiled, steamed or used in a main course dish, added to stews or made into soup.
Celery requires a longer growing season, lots of water and prefers cooler temperatures. It is a biennial plant (Apium graveolens) of the family Umbelliferae or parsley family, It was first cultivated for medicinal use, then (during the Middle Ages) as a flavouring and finally as a food, chiefly for soups and salads; the seeds are still used for seasoning.
Soil Preparation
As celery requires a great deal of water, it does best in soil, which is water retentive. The bed where celery is to grow should be prepared during December or January, if of course weather permits. Dig out a trench 1 ½ ft. (45cm) wide and 16 in. (406mm) deep. Put the soil on either side of the trench so that two ridges are formed. Smooth out the top of each ridge with the back of the spade and pat down slightly to make it firm. The top of the ridges is the perfect place to sow a catch crop such as radish, lettuce or spinach, which will allow the vegetable garden to be made full use of the available space. Ridges should have at least 2-½ ft (75cm) between them. Into the bottom of the trench put a 6 in. layer of well-rotted manure and compost. On top add 5 in. (127mm) of soil this should fill the trench to within 6 in. (15cm) of surface level. Apply fish manure over the soil at a rate of 4 oz. (120g) to the yard run. As the celery grows it will require several feeds with a liquid manure to bust up the growth.
Sowing
Always purchase disease-free seed that is resistant to blight because celery is particularly susceptible to this disease. Sow the seeds in the middle of February in trays of John Innes seed compost at a temperature of 60 to 65 deg F. (16 to 18deg C.) in a greenhouse. Cover the tray with a piece of glass which should be lifted each day and the underside wiped dry. As soon as the seedlings are through the glass should be removed completely. When the seedlings are about ½ in. (12mm) high, prick them out and plant into 3 in (76mm) deep pots in John Innes potting compost No 1. The pots should remain in the greenhouse until late April early may when they can be taken outside and put into a cold frame to harden off. If it is not possible to start them in a greenhouse they can be sown outside under cloches in late March or early April. Leave the seedlings growing under the cloches until they are planted out into the trenches.
Planting
The plants should be about 3 or 4 in. (76mm-101mm) by early June, that is the time to plant them into the trenches. In the centre of the bottom of the trench, make holes with a trowel 1 ft. (30cm) apart then plant the young celery plants, firming in the roots. Half fill the trench with water after planting to ensure that the roots are in firmly.
General care
If the weather is dry, soak the trench again in ten days after planting out; this will prevent the roots from drying out, as this must not be allowed to happen. After a month, start to use a liquid feed every ten days. Keep the area free from weeds and remove any side growths coming up from the base of the plants. It is important to cover the tops of the plants with straw, then over the straw place cloches in readiness for winter protection; it will prevent water from trickling down into the celery hearts, as this will inevitably rot the celery from the insides.
Earthing Up
Begin to earth up the plants in the middle of August when they reach about 1 ft. (30cm) high. Use the soil from the top of the ridges to add into the trenches to a depth of 6 in. (15cm). To avoid soil from falling into the centre of the plants between the stems, take hold of the plant in one hand, bringing the stems together, whilst pushing the soil around them with the other. The next earthing up can be done about three weeks later. Pat the sides of the earthed up trench with the back of the spade so that they are sloping smoothly away from the plants. This will help the rain to run off without soaking the top. The third earthing up is done in October and again ensure that the sides are smooth and steep. Water is required at the roots of the plants; therefore a length of pipe inserted into the ground close by each plant, will allow the water when poured down the pipe to reach the roots.
Harvesting
Celery stems should be white before they are eaten. To achieve this, it will take about 8 weeks after earthing up has begun. When removing celery, make sure that soil is put into its place so that the ridge will not brake up and so expose the adjacent plant.
Self-Blanching Celery
This type of early celery has less flavour and is less hardy than the other. It is grown for use in September and October and must be cleared before any risk of frost. The seed is sown at the end of March, early April and it is ready to use at the end of August - October.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Gardening - How to Grow Celeriac!
gardening
Growing Celeriac
The stem or swollen bulb of the Celeriac is produced on the surface of the ground and grows like a root crop. It is a member of the celery family and in fact the texture is very similar but instead of growing tall and straight it is short, dumpy and bulbous. It is known also as celery root, knob celery and turnip-rooted celery. It has a similar taste to celery with the addition of aniseed and parsley. Celeriac can be used in recipes that call for celery, it can be added to soups and stews.
Soil Preparation
Celeriac grows best in soil that contains plenty of organic matter, an ideal crop to follow potatoes or peas. During April add manure and compost to the soil and fork over lightly; after which allow two weeks before the plants are put into the plot. At the time of planting add fish manure at 3 oz. (90g) to the sq. yd.
Sowing
The seeds are sown into trays of John Innes seed compost during February in a greenhouse, with a maintained temperature of 65 deg F. (18 deg C.) Press down the compost level and firm, as the seed is tiny, sprinkle it thinly over the top; sift a little amount of soil on top. Water through a fine rose, taking great care not to disturb the soil too much, place the trays on the staging of the greenhouse and cover them with a sheet of glass. It is a good idea to wipe the under-side of the glass every day and as soon as the seedlings pop up remove it altogether. When the seedlings are ¼ in. (6mm) high prick them out and plant them in pots containing similar compost. Keep them in the greenhouse for another three weeks allowing them all the light they can have, after which they should be moved to a cold frame to harden off. They should remain in the frame for about a week before they are ready to plant.
Planting
Plant the seedlings about 1 ½ ft. (45cm) apart and 1 ft. (30cm) between the rows. Bury the roots with the leaves just resting on the surface. Shallow planting is necessary as the swollen bulb-like stems are produced above the surface of the soil.
General Care
Keep down the weeds by hoeing lightly between the plants, drawing the soil a little away from the plants rather than towards them. During November, begin to draw the soil around the bulbs to help blanch and to protect them.
Harvesting
The crop can be dug up during winter when they are required.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Growing Celeriac
The stem or swollen bulb of the Celeriac is produced on the surface of the ground and grows like a root crop. It is a member of the celery family and in fact the texture is very similar but instead of growing tall and straight it is short, dumpy and bulbous. It is known also as celery root, knob celery and turnip-rooted celery. It has a similar taste to celery with the addition of aniseed and parsley. Celeriac can be used in recipes that call for celery, it can be added to soups and stews.
Soil Preparation
Celeriac grows best in soil that contains plenty of organic matter, an ideal crop to follow potatoes or peas. During April add manure and compost to the soil and fork over lightly; after which allow two weeks before the plants are put into the plot. At the time of planting add fish manure at 3 oz. (90g) to the sq. yd.
Sowing
The seeds are sown into trays of John Innes seed compost during February in a greenhouse, with a maintained temperature of 65 deg F. (18 deg C.) Press down the compost level and firm, as the seed is tiny, sprinkle it thinly over the top; sift a little amount of soil on top. Water through a fine rose, taking great care not to disturb the soil too much, place the trays on the staging of the greenhouse and cover them with a sheet of glass. It is a good idea to wipe the under-side of the glass every day and as soon as the seedlings pop up remove it altogether. When the seedlings are ¼ in. (6mm) high prick them out and plant them in pots containing similar compost. Keep them in the greenhouse for another three weeks allowing them all the light they can have, after which they should be moved to a cold frame to harden off. They should remain in the frame for about a week before they are ready to plant.
Planting
Plant the seedlings about 1 ½ ft. (45cm) apart and 1 ft. (30cm) between the rows. Bury the roots with the leaves just resting on the surface. Shallow planting is necessary as the swollen bulb-like stems are produced above the surface of the soil.
General Care
Keep down the weeds by hoeing lightly between the plants, drawing the soil a little away from the plants rather than towards them. During November, begin to draw the soil around the bulbs to help blanch and to protect them.
Harvesting
The crop can be dug up during winter when they are required.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com. Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Gardening - How to Grow Cauliflowers!
gardening
Growing Cauliflowers
Cauliflowers originated in southern Europe. They are not the easiest vegetable to grow which puts many off the idea of even attempting to try this wonderful tasty crop. The soil must be healthy; it demands that the soil is sweet, with a pH range of 6.5 - 7.5, deeply dug with a very high fertility level. Anything that slows down the growth, such as insects, lack of water, excessive heat or cold, may prevent the development of the head.
Soil Preparation
Sandy loam is preferable with an enrichment of well-rotted manure and compost at a rate of one bucketful to the sq. yd. It is an advantage if cauliflowers follow a well-manured crop like potatoes or peas; doing this the ground will be firmer and in good condition. If the soil is not already chalky or limy after the initial soil preparation, apply carbonate of lime as a top dressing at the rate of 5 oz. (150g) to the sq. yd.
About ten days before planting, apply a fertilizer such as fish manure, bone meal at the rate of 3 oz. (90g) to the sq. yd. You may also add some wood ash or sulphate of potash at 1 oz. (30g) to the sq. yd.
Sowing
Make the first sowing in January, keeping them on staging in a greenhouse at a temperature of 50 deg. F. (10 deg C.). When the seedlings come through, prick out and replant into pots containing similar soil. At the beginning of March put the pots out into a frame to harden the plants off; let them get acclimatised to the outside atmosphere until the end of March, then transplant them into the bed where they are to mature. Make the second sowing in late April thinly into moist, firm soil, in frames, which should be as similar to John Innes compost as possible. Keep the frame closed until germination takes place then allow a little ventilation on mild days. When the seedlings come through, prick out and replant into pots containing similar soil; these will be ready to plant out in June.
The third sowing is made in May, in the seedbed in a sunny, sheltered position. Make drills about ½ in. (12mm) deep and sow the seeds thinly. After covering the seeds make sure that the soil is firmed over with the head of a rake. It is important to remember that whenever cauliflowers are transplanted they must be planted shallowly, if the base of the leaves are buried it will deform the plant and they will not develop the centres.
Planting
During the growing period many old gardeners would give their cauliflowers a dressing of soot, but in this modern era of gas, electric, and for that matter solar powered heating, it is unlikely that this substance is available to the majority of today's gardeners. Instead, dried blood at a rate of 2 oz. (60g) to the sq. yd. can be given.
Harvesting
Always cut the cauliflowers early in the morning whilst the curds are moist with dew. If a number of curds appear to be ready at the same time and they are not all required at once, break the midribs of two or three of the centre leaves on each plant that is not needed so that they cover the curd like an umbrella and protect it for a few days until they are required. The cauliflower will keep however for about three weeks if it is pulled up, including roots, and hung upside down in a dry shed.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog
http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
Growing Cauliflowers
Cauliflowers originated in southern Europe. They are not the easiest vegetable to grow which puts many off the idea of even attempting to try this wonderful tasty crop. The soil must be healthy; it demands that the soil is sweet, with a pH range of 6.5 - 7.5, deeply dug with a very high fertility level. Anything that slows down the growth, such as insects, lack of water, excessive heat or cold, may prevent the development of the head.
Soil Preparation
Sandy loam is preferable with an enrichment of well-rotted manure and compost at a rate of one bucketful to the sq. yd. It is an advantage if cauliflowers follow a well-manured crop like potatoes or peas; doing this the ground will be firmer and in good condition. If the soil is not already chalky or limy after the initial soil preparation, apply carbonate of lime as a top dressing at the rate of 5 oz. (150g) to the sq. yd.
About ten days before planting, apply a fertilizer such as fish manure, bone meal at the rate of 3 oz. (90g) to the sq. yd. You may also add some wood ash or sulphate of potash at 1 oz. (30g) to the sq. yd.
Sowing
Make the first sowing in January, keeping them on staging in a greenhouse at a temperature of 50 deg. F. (10 deg C.). When the seedlings come through, prick out and replant into pots containing similar soil. At the beginning of March put the pots out into a frame to harden the plants off; let them get acclimatised to the outside atmosphere until the end of March, then transplant them into the bed where they are to mature. Make the second sowing in late April thinly into moist, firm soil, in frames, which should be as similar to John Innes compost as possible. Keep the frame closed until germination takes place then allow a little ventilation on mild days. When the seedlings come through, prick out and replant into pots containing similar soil; these will be ready to plant out in June.
The third sowing is made in May, in the seedbed in a sunny, sheltered position. Make drills about ½ in. (12mm) deep and sow the seeds thinly. After covering the seeds make sure that the soil is firmed over with the head of a rake. It is important to remember that whenever cauliflowers are transplanted they must be planted shallowly, if the base of the leaves are buried it will deform the plant and they will not develop the centres.
Planting
During the growing period many old gardeners would give their cauliflowers a dressing of soot, but in this modern era of gas, electric, and for that matter solar powered heating, it is unlikely that this substance is available to the majority of today's gardeners. Instead, dried blood at a rate of 2 oz. (60g) to the sq. yd. can be given.
Harvesting
Always cut the cauliflowers early in the morning whilst the curds are moist with dew. If a number of curds appear to be ready at the same time and they are not all required at once, break the midribs of two or three of the centre leaves on each plant that is not needed so that they cover the curd like an umbrella and protect it for a few days until they are required. The cauliflower will keep however for about three weeks if it is pulled up, including roots, and hung upside down in a dry shed.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog
http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com I would be very interested to have your comments on this Article.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
gardening
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