Pest Control in Your Garden!

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Pest Control

In our bid to control or eliminate those creatures and disease, which damage or ruin our crops, we must look to enhance the environment to attract natural predators to assist us in our task. It is of course a long-term approach but one that can only benefit both the environment and us. Organic gardening relies on several overlapping strategies rather than the power of a single highly toxic chemical to kill the pests. We must encourage the pest's natural enemies such as ladybirds, lacewings, spiders and tiny parasitic wasps. Many beneficial insects that feed on garden pests need nectar and pollen for food during part of their lifecycle. Growing a year-round supply of suitable flowers close by will maintain the insect populations throughout the year. Keep the insect eating birds visiting your garden by providing them with safe nesting sites, offer safe hiding places for frogs and hedgehogs.

I have included some of the pests we are likely to encounter when growing vegetables, but by using good growing practises, good husbandry, crop rotation, and watchfulness, we can overcome most if not all.

Aphids (Greenfly, Black fly, etc)

These tiny creatures are the most abundant pests in the garden, and most plants, including vegetables, are liable to attack by one or more species of aphids. Aphid's feed by sucking the sap from a plant and by congregating in there hundreds and in some instances thousands. On tender young growth, they can quickly suck the life out of the plant or at least stunt the growth and disfigure it. To add to this they can also transmit virus disease, which can often wipe out an entire crop.

Keep a close watch for these little fellows; a few individuals can quickly multiply into a swarm especially when the weather is warm. The Black Bean Aphid is found on beans, beetroot and spinach. You will have to look more closely for the Carrot Aphid because its colour is almost identical to the leaves of the carrot. The Cabbage Aphid is greyish-white and can be found tightly packed in colonies on the leaves and stems not only of cabbage but Brussels sprouts and cauliflower. Once these take hold they invade the inner leaves of the heart making the plant inedible.

Control

Many people are discovering that the control of aphids and other pests is within the general management of the land, enrichment of the soil and good husbandry, clearing away debris and waste after harvesting crops, weed control, all assist in controlling many pests. However, a garlic spray or a weak application of insecticidel soap should help to eliminate these sapsuckers.

Carrot Fly (Psila rosea)

It might be a good time to mention this beastie the scourge of the veggie plot, who sets the carrot grower's teeth on edge. It is a very small black fly, which is believed to seek out its prey (the carrot) by the smell. The eggs are laid in the soil adjacent to the carrots where the grubs over-winter in the ground gorging itself on our carrots! However other plants may also be chosen as laying sites, Parsley, Cow Parsley, Celery and Parsnips are other favourites. The spring generation who are ready to procreate hatch ready to begin to lay their eggs in June and July.

The gardener is generally unaware that his carrots have been attacked until they are lifted. However in severe infestations the first sign is that the carrot leaves look yellowish-orange or rusty. As soon as the culprits are discovered the crop should be lifted and destroyed. Some carrots may have escaped this grubs greedy jaws or at least part of them might. For those who do not appear to have been affected the simple test of dropping them into a bucket of water can be tried. If the carrots float then they most certainly have been attacked, even so part of them still might be rescued. Many gardeners choose to grow a variety that is resistant to carrot fly but it obviously restricts the wonderful choice and variety that we have available to day which is a great shame. To prevent carrot fly attacks it is important to put up some sort of defence and there are several options.

Companion planting - Many people are convinced that a screen of strong smelling plants situated close by the carrots will deter the fly. Onions and Garlic are said to have a great repellent effect. However these do have limitations, even if they are of use, they are for only a limited time span of two months because they are lifted well before the fly is at it's most copious time in early autumn.

Barriers - This is the method that I would personally choose to use.

A barrier of fine horticulture fleece, available from most good garden centres and DIY stores is supported by thick strong wire hoops or a frame made from stout canes, while the edges of the fleece on the ground, is weighted down with half bricks. The fleece allows light and moisture to penetrate through so will not restrict the growth of the vegetables. Of course it must be taken down temporarily while weeding takes place. Fleece also allows early plantings as it does give a little shelter and this will assist with the 'Timing' option

Caterpillars

The caterpillars of the Large Cabbage White Butterfly (Pieris brassicae) have green, black and yellow markings.

The velvety green caterpillars if the Small White Cabbage Butterfly is a common pest of cabbage, Swede, and kale, and can be found throughout the summer devouring the leaves with devastating speed, at the end nothing but the leaf skeleton and the main stalk remains.

The adult all white butterfly emerges from the pupa (chrysalis) in April and May, mates after which the female lays 20 to 100 yellow eggs on the underside of the plant leaves. It takes about 14 days for the larvae (caterpillars) to hatch out. They have well developed mandibles, which they use with devastating effect on the crops. This generation pupates in June, then emerges in July to repeat the cycle, pupates then over winters for the next year.

Control

Protect the plants by putting up a barrier of fine netting or horticultural fleece; this will prevent the butterfly from laying her eggs on the plants. Alternatively, Apantales glomeratus, a small parasitic wasp, is a biological control, which lays its eggs in the caterpillar. You can also try to pick off as many caterpillars as possible. Now this might sound a tall story but I swear it is true. After picking off dozens of the Large White Butterfly caterpillars from the cabbage patch, I took them through to the next garden and tossed them into the pond, curious as to whether the fish would eat them, although I had my doubts because of the caterpillar's colouration (black and yellow). Well the fish didn't attempt to eat them but to my amazement, out of the pond climbed these creatures; down the path they walked, out to the vegetable garden towards the cabbage bed! Of course they were not allowed that far but it makes you think!

Flea Beetle

The name flea beetle is a generic name applied to a collection of bugs, which can do sever damage to our crops. Those crops, which are particularly attacked, are beans, beets, eggplant, peas, potatoes, pumpkins, spinach, sweet potatoes and watermelons.

1. To help control these pests make sure that weeds are kept clear of the vegetables because this will help to deprive the larvae of food.

2. Remove old crop debris as this gives winter protective cover for the beetles.

3. Crop rotation is particularly good practise to reduce food for the larvae.

4. Growing garlic close by is said to discourage the bugs from hanging around

Slugs and Snails are an absolute menace in the garden. Not only do they gorge themselves on our plants, they leave behind the most disgusting, slimy trail, which, once they have slithered their way over the crop, greatly reduces our enthusiasm to eat and enjoy them ourselves.

Slug pellets do work but they are life threatening to other creatures in the garden, other creatures that we would like to encourage because they work with us, helping to eliminate other pests that would otherwise feast on our crops. Beer traps work well, just put some beer into a shallow container that has steep sides, the slugs love the stuff and when they have drunk their fill they simply drown. Seeing their stranded brethren does not seem to deter their fellow snails from slithering into the same fate. Milk or grape juice works just as well! Another good trap is to place a half of either grapefruit or melon skin with the flesh removed of course. Place them upside down on the ground; here the slugs gather over night; these can be collected the next morning and disposed of.

Onion Fly

These are the adult flies, whose eggs produce the damaging maggots that attack onions. The eggs are laid at the base of the plants, when they hatch the maggots feed within the onion bulbs. Because garlic appears to be immune to this pest, garlic is used as an organic method to deter the fly from visiting the onion plants. Make up a spray solution with half a cup of crushed garlic cloves to a pint of water; allow this to stand for two or three days, then spray the onion plants daily. This can be done on a daily basis as a cure or simply as a precautionary procedure. Prevention is always better than cure so it is very important that after the onions have been harvested none should be allowed to remain on or in the ground as this is a source of food for the maggots so that they are able to over-winter readiness for the coming year.

Wireworm (Agriotes lineatus) this creature, which grows to about 25mm long, spends four years living in the ground. During the summer they pupate, this stage lasts for three weeks, to emerge as adult Click beetles. They feed on roots particularly potatoes and other root crops, making tunnels about 3mm in diameter. They are usually widespread in grassland so will be frequently found when it is brought into cultivation. It is believed that after five years of cultivation their numbers drop considerably.

Control

1. Lift main-crop potatoes before September, as most of the damage is done at this time.

2. Crush any that are found when digging.

3. I have heard that a trap made of squares of potatoes attached to skewers, buried in the ground is a good way of catching them, these can be pulled up and the infested potato destroyed. I must admit that I have not used this method, but it is one I might try.

4. Keep down weeds, as this is the sort of territory that the beetle likes to lay its eggs.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog
http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn

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Lawn Care - Organic Fertilizers!

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We can never have too much organic matter dug into the garden particularly in the vegetable garden. Whilst in the humus (half decomposed state), it acts as a sponge in light soils to retain food and moisture; in heavy clay it provides a drainage filter between the soil particles.

When preparing the beds for vegetables the organic fertilizer should be added at a rate of two bucketfuls to the sq. yd.

Manures

Well-rotted animal manure is one of the finest by-products that are available to the organic gardener. It may sound like a messy and an unhygienic substance to handle but in this form it looks completely different from the fresh product. It doesn't smell, in fact it resembles rich, brown, crumbly compost, which of course it is. However, when handling any type of composts and fertilizers it is sensible to wear gloves.

Farmyard manure is a mixture of the droppings of horses, pigs or cows, including their urine and the litter used for their bedding. Cow manures are wetter, colder and lower in nutrients than horse manure, and decompose more slowly in the soil, which makes them more suitable for sandy soils. Likewise, pig manure is slow acting but long lasting, as it is slow to ferment, this too is a cold manure and therefore unsuitable for the making of hot-beds. Bullock manure is not recommended because many are fed a composition diet to build up tissue and body weight, therefore the residue could be transported into their manure and which might not necessarily be beneficial to us.

One ton of farmyard manure will give about 10lb. Nitrogen, 5lb. Phosphoric acid and 10lb. Potash, much of which is accessible to the plants soon after application.

Not everyone lives in the country or close by riding stables but many of the animal manures can be purchased from good Garden Centres or from suppliers with web sites who can deliver to your home. Manures are generally good all round balanced fertilizers with amounts of nitrogen as well as a little of many other ingredients. It must always be used when it has matured, fresh will harm the plants by "burning" the stems and roots. If you are able to collect it from source let it rot for about 8 weeks but do make sure that you cover it to stop the rain-washing away all the nutrients. In autumn dig lots of manure into the vegetable plots it will ensure that the plants have a really good start in the following season. Besides root crops prefer soil that has been manured the previous season.

Chicken Manure

Chicken manure is often sold in pellet form so it is easy and cleaner to handle. It is very rich being high in nitrogen but it is lacking in almost all other nutrients. However it is very useful when used combined with other fertilizers. Chicken manure must never be used fresh.

Hop Manures

Spent hops are useful for improving the physical condition of the soil, however they have little if any nutrients.

Compost

The term "compost" is generally thought to mean a mixture of soil, peat and sand, which is used in potting and often called potting compost. There is another medium, which is vegetable waste of all kinds, which has been thoroughly rotted down and formed a blackish-brown crumbling material very near to humus.

I think everyone is aware of the benefits of composted plant waste. Rich in all the necessary ingredients including micronutrients and micro organisms it is one of the best if not the best products we can use on our soil. Whether it is a simple worm bin or specially built container, anyone who is keen to grow his or her own food must have a compost source. Not only will it be a place to dispose of the grass cuttings but you can add lots of other waste too:

1. Leaves
2. Clippings
3. Straw.
4. Sawdust.
5. Shredded branches and twigs.
6. Cut flowers.
7. Comfrey leaves.
8. Tea leaves.
9. Coffee grounds.
10. Egg shells.
11. Banana skins.
12. Fluff from the vacuum cleaner.
13. Manure.
14. Urine.
15. Shredded paper.
16. Vegetable waste

If you live near the sea you can add kelp (a form of sea weed). Never add kitchen scraps because it will attract vermin. Other ingredients that should not be used are dog or cat manure (their worming treatment will kill off the composting worms); don't use citrus peel either its too acidic for worms and don't use diseased plants it could mean that you run the risk of spreading the disease all around your garden.

To help the compost to rot down an activator should be used. This can be manure, bird droppings, urine or a propriety activator; in dry weather it should be watered.

In a properly made compost heap the temperature will rise to 180deg. F. (82 deg C.). It is then that the actinomycetes break down the more resistant proteins and carbohydrates. As the temperature begins to cool and this could take about a month, the bacteria will begin their work to complete the breakdown process.

It will take roughly about 12 months for the pile to break down properly into compost. If your container does not have a lid it is a good idea to cover the top with plastic sheeting or a tarpaulin weighted down to reduce the amount of rainwater from leaching out the nutrients. It will also keep in the heat to allow fermentation and a quicker breakdown. It's a good idea to give the pile a forking over from time to time this will accelerate decomposition. Another tip, chop-up the waste as it will take less time to break down. Vary the type of material making layers of the different ingredients this all helps to speed up the process, turning it with a garden fork from time to will also help.

If the composted waste takes up an area of at least 12ft. x 12ft. it is a good idea to include a ventilation shaft that will help with decomposition of the material. This is done by inserting a post in the centre of the heap, piling the waste around it layer by layer until the pile reaches a height of about 6 ft., then the post is removed, leaving an air shaft through the middle; this will ensure that the waste does get a balanced airflow.

It is easy to see when the compost is ready; it will be rich and dark brown, crumbly, loose, in fact it resembles the potting compost that comes in bags from the garden centres that are ready to plant into. It will have become the perfect product to return to feed the soil.

Compost when properly made, can be more valuable than dung for it contains plant food and it is alive with millions of micro organisms for the health and well being of the soil. It will contain most of the minor minerals or trace elements all vital in good, healthy crop cultivation.

When the compost is ready to use it can be added all around the garden but especially the vegetable plot. It will improve the soil just dig in between 1 - 2 inches of compost. It can be use as mulch, or as an extra boost during the hungriest part of the growing season when the fruit are developing. You can even mix some compost with water to make a liquid feed.

A compost bin can be constructed using four wooden pallets, each stood up on its side with the topside of the pallet, which has all the slats, facing inwards so that the extra slats made good compost retention. Through the centre of each pallet to retain the position, two stout stakes are driven vertically into the ground. When the compartment is full up, three more pallets can be joined to the side, making a second chamber. After this too is full, a third one can be erected and eventually a fourth; the total number of pallets required is twelve. By the time the fourth is filled, the first compartment will have compost ready to be used around the garden. Access to each compartment cannot be easier; either of the outward walls of each bin may be simply lifted over the stakes for the removal of the compost. If the pallets are first painted with wood preservative they should last for a quite few years, after which they can be replaced either individually or completely at very little cost.

Liquid manure

There are so many things that you can make up into a liquid feed. Comfrey leaves put in a bin with water and allowed to rot down make a very good liquid feed. However, other ingredients such as manure, blood and bone meal, a capful of concentrated seaweed fertilizer allowed to stand for about a week, make up a very fine brew. It must be diluted at a ratio of about 1 parts liquid feed to 4 parts water. As you draw the last dregs from the container, it is wiser to dilute a little more, as the mixture becomes more concentrated at the bottom. Worm bins produce very good liquid feed and just as the previously mentioned brew, must be diluted before use. When using the liquid, water it onto the soil around the plants avoiding the foliage as much as possible. This feed can be administered about every 2 - 3 weeks throughout summer.

Green manure

Green manure has been used for thousands of years for mainly vegetable crops; it is a way of replenishing organic matter into the soil, especially soils that have been impoverished by chemical fertilization. It is a sustainable enrichment of soil by incorporating un-decomposed green plant material that will benefit the soil in many ways:

Increase soil fertility
Increase biological activity
Nourish subsequent crops
Reduce soil erosion
Reduce nitrate losses
Weed suppressant
Soil structure improvement

The annual lupin is extensively used as a green manure crop as is Crimson clover (Trigonella foenum graecum) and Mustard (Sinapsis alba). These will add organic matter and really improve the soil as they rot down. One key ingredient in green manure is legumes, which fix nitrogen into the soil. This is a good practise especially in soil where hungry feeders have been grown.

Green manure For more information visit: www.mrsgreenfingers.co.uk (You need an Internet connection to visit this site)

However, green manure does not give quick results as it is slow to activate - and the reason why it is not often used in ordinary home gardens. It usually takes at the very least six months for the vegetable waste to rot down. When crops are dug into the land in a fresh condition, the soil organisms have to get to work on the green plants and break them down. In doing so they starve the land of nitrogen during the time the waste is being broken down. Therefore green manure method is generally applied on land that is to have a season of rest. Besides there are other factors, which come into play in order that the best results are achieved. The land should be properly drained so that sufficient air is present; it should be adequately limed so that it is not acid, and the soil should be warm.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn

Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author

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