Lawn
September.
September is the time when you will be planting fall plants and also getting your lawn ready for the wintertime. You should mow your lawn a few more times and water it to make sure that it is healthy. You may experience more rain, so watering should become less frequent.
You will also experience more wind which will start knocking the leaves from the trees.
In September, you should:
Remove old mulch and replace it with new mulch
Mow the lawn
Weed the lawn
Water the lawn
Rake the lawn
Make sure drainage systems are working properly
Store away the lawn mower at the end of the month
Repair any problems in the lawn mower, mulching machine, or tiller
Tidy up the shed and garage by throwing away unnecessary items
Get ready to plant fall flowers and plants
Use fall fertilizer for cooler season grass
Till the soil in your spring plant and flower beds
Turn Perennial plants into mulch
Plant Annual plants and flowers
September can turn cold quickly, so it is best to get the hardest jobs done quickly at the beginning of the month. This is the season to make sure that you have everything you will need for the winter months.
Items you may need:
Winter fertilizer
String and small posts for trees
Covers for lawn structures
Rakes, gloves, mulching machine
Mulch
October
In October, the leaves will begin to fall in large numbers. If you like to make your own mulch, then you will be in luck during this time of year. Rent or buy a small mulching machine and you will be all set. Making mulch is very easy and will save you money.
In October, you should:
Rake up leaves
Turn leaves into mulch
Spread mulch all over the lawn
Secure small trees and shrubs with posts and string
Trim plants and shrubs
Check for drainage problems
Make sure fall plants and flowers are growing properly
Add fertilizer where necessary
Remove fruit from the bottom of any fruit trees and add to mulch or compost pile
Clean up any leaf piles laying around as animals will make nests out of them
October can be a beautiful time of year with the many colors and plants that are blooming. You will still have to take care of them as you would your Perennial plants, but you will be able to let them grow without having to worry too much about weeds or insects.
When designing your fall lawn, you should keep in mind that you will only be able to fix minor grass problems as the ground will become harder as the cold weather settles in. If you have not aerated, you should now before it is too late.
Enjoy your fall lawn now because you will not have too long before it will be gone. While a winter lawn is also beautiful, it is just not the same.
November
With the leaves almost gone, you will not have to rake as much. November is the time when your lawn care will begin to slow down. You will not have as much to do and you will be able to relax and enjoy what you have created.
In November, you should:
Clean up any clutter on your lawn
Secure all lawn equipment for the wintertime in a shed or garage
If you still need to repair any lawn equipment, you should do so now
Check on smaller shrubs to see if they will need reinforcement
Dig up bulbs and other seeds to plant for the springtime
Lay down mulch if necessary
This is a short list, but the items on it are important. You should complete them because they will help during the rest of the year.
December
During December, you may not want to have to much do with your lawn. This is understandable. But you should go outside and check on plants that are small and may need your help to make it to the springtime.
In December, you should:
Assess all remaining plants, trees, shrubs, and flowers
Reinforce any plants that are falling over
Make sure that plants are safe against the snow
Check on tree branches
Take a good look at the grass
Drainage
Since water and ice can cause cracking in your lawn structures, you should keep an eye on those as well. The winter may look peaceful, but in reality, your lawn still needs your care.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Lawn
Thursday, November 30, 2006
Lawn Pesticides - How to Reduce their Use!
Lawn
Correct Mowing and Watering Technique
An excellent way to reduce the need for pesticides - and we're all "green" (forgive the pun) nowadays, is to grow the Lawn Taller than you would expect. Tall grass provides shade! That is the Secret!
* Shade cuts down weed germination, such as Crabgrass!
* Tall grass has larger roots, which increases the uptake of nutrients and moisture.
* Tall grass is better able to withstand Summer heat.
* Correct mowing and the use of natural fertilizers can, by themselves keep a Lawn Healthy and thick.
So, cut down the use of pesticides and let the grass grow.
* Set your Mower Blades to at least 3 inches for regular mowing.
* Four times a year reduce this to 2 inches - generally in the Spring and Autumn. This will prevent and remove Fungus.
* Always leave grass clippings on the Lawn. This will provide a natural mulch which further reduces the need for fertilizer.
Pesticides are in fact harmful to Human Health. They can result in decomposition and lead to thatch, apart from the dangers to children and pets.
* When mowing ensure that the Mower blade is sharp.
* Mow when the Sun is at its lowest. This is usually in the early morning or more preferably in the cool of the evening.
* Make sure the grass is dry.
Mowing with a dull Mower blade will tear the grass roots, turning the grass brown. Mowing when the grass is wet will have the same effect and leave the grass more susceptible to disease.
Correct Watering
In these days of Water Conservation it is important to water only when needed. This should be every few days as required, not every day. Try to water later in the evening or early morning. Water deeply, but there is no need to water if there has been recent rainfall. Only water lightly if a fertilizer has just been applied.
Watering promotes growth during the Summer and ensures a thicker Lawn which will reduce pest problems.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Lawn
Correct Mowing and Watering Technique
An excellent way to reduce the need for pesticides - and we're all "green" (forgive the pun) nowadays, is to grow the Lawn Taller than you would expect. Tall grass provides shade! That is the Secret!
* Shade cuts down weed germination, such as Crabgrass!
* Tall grass has larger roots, which increases the uptake of nutrients and moisture.
* Tall grass is better able to withstand Summer heat.
* Correct mowing and the use of natural fertilizers can, by themselves keep a Lawn Healthy and thick.
So, cut down the use of pesticides and let the grass grow.
* Set your Mower Blades to at least 3 inches for regular mowing.
* Four times a year reduce this to 2 inches - generally in the Spring and Autumn. This will prevent and remove Fungus.
* Always leave grass clippings on the Lawn. This will provide a natural mulch which further reduces the need for fertilizer.
Pesticides are in fact harmful to Human Health. They can result in decomposition and lead to thatch, apart from the dangers to children and pets.
* When mowing ensure that the Mower blade is sharp.
* Mow when the Sun is at its lowest. This is usually in the early morning or more preferably in the cool of the evening.
* Make sure the grass is dry.
Mowing with a dull Mower blade will tear the grass roots, turning the grass brown. Mowing when the grass is wet will have the same effect and leave the grass more susceptible to disease.
Correct Watering
In these days of Water Conservation it is important to water only when needed. This should be every few days as required, not every day. Try to water later in the evening or early morning. Water deeply, but there is no need to water if there has been recent rainfall. Only water lightly if a fertilizer has just been applied.
Watering promotes growth during the Summer and ensures a thicker Lawn which will reduce pest problems.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Lawn
God's Humorous Views on Lawn Care!
Lawn
Imagine the conversation The Creator might have had with St. Francis on the subject of lawns:
God: Hey St. Francis, you know all about gardens and nature. What in the world is going on down there in the Midwest? What happened to the dandelions, violets, thistle and stuff I started eons ago? I had a perfect "no maintenance" garden plan. Those plants grow in any type of soil, withstand drought and multiply with abandon. The nectar from the long lasting blossoms attracts butterflies, honey bees and flocks of songbirds. I expected to see a vast garden of colors by now. But all I see are these green rectangles.
St. Francis: It's the tribes that settled there, Lord. The Suburbanites. They started calling your flowers "weeds" and went to great lengths to kill them and replace them with grass.
God: Grass? But it's so boring. It's not colorful. It doesn't attract butterflies, birds and bees, only grubs and sod worms. It's temperamental with temperatures. Do these Suburbanites really want all that grass growing there?
St. Francis: Apparently so, Lord. They go to great pains to grow it and keep it green. They begin each spring by fertilizing grass and poisoning any other plant that crops up in the lawn.
God: The spring rains and warm weather probably make grass grow really fast. That must make the Suburbanites happy.
St. Francis: Apparently not, Lord. As soon as it grows a little, they cut it... sometimes twice a week.
God: They cut it? Do they then bail it like hay?
St. Francis: Not exactly, Lord. Most of them rake it up and put it in bags.
God: They bag it? Why? Is it a cash crop? Do they sell it?
St. Francis: No Sir. Just the opposite. They pay to throw it away.
God: Now let me get this straight. They fertilize grass so when it does grow, they cut it off and pay to throw it away?
St. Francis: Yes, Sir.
God: These Suburbanites must be relieved in the summer when we cut back on the rain and turn up the heat. That surely slows the growth and saves them a lot of work.
St. Francis: You are not going to believe this Lord. When the grass stops growing so fast, they drag out hoses and pay more money to water it so they can continue to mow it and pay to get rid of it.
God: What nonsense. At least they kept some of the trees. That was a sheer stroke of genius, if I do say so myself. The trees grow leaves in the spring to provide beauty and shade in the summer. In the autumn they fall to the ground and form a natural blanket to keep moisture in the soil and protect the trees and bushes. Plus, as they rot, the leaves form compost to enhance the soil. It's a natural circle of life.
St. Francis: You better sit down, Lord. The Suburbanites have drawn a new circle. As soon as the leaves fall, they rake them into great piles and pay to have them hauled away.
God: No. What do they do to protect the shrub and tree roots in the winter and to keep the soil moist and loose?
St. Francis: After throwing away the leaves, they go out and buy something which they call mulch. The haul it home and spread it around in place of the leaves.
God: And where do they get this mulch?
St. Francis: They cut down trees and grind them up to make the mulch.
God: Enough. I don't want to think about this anymore. Sister Catherine, you're in charge of the arts. What movie have you scheduled for us tonight?
Sister Catherine: "Dumb and Dumber", Lord. It's a real stupid movie about.....
God: Never mind, I think I just heard the whole story from St. Francis.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Lawn
Imagine the conversation The Creator might have had with St. Francis on the subject of lawns:
God: Hey St. Francis, you know all about gardens and nature. What in the world is going on down there in the Midwest? What happened to the dandelions, violets, thistle and stuff I started eons ago? I had a perfect "no maintenance" garden plan. Those plants grow in any type of soil, withstand drought and multiply with abandon. The nectar from the long lasting blossoms attracts butterflies, honey bees and flocks of songbirds. I expected to see a vast garden of colors by now. But all I see are these green rectangles.
St. Francis: It's the tribes that settled there, Lord. The Suburbanites. They started calling your flowers "weeds" and went to great lengths to kill them and replace them with grass.
God: Grass? But it's so boring. It's not colorful. It doesn't attract butterflies, birds and bees, only grubs and sod worms. It's temperamental with temperatures. Do these Suburbanites really want all that grass growing there?
St. Francis: Apparently so, Lord. They go to great pains to grow it and keep it green. They begin each spring by fertilizing grass and poisoning any other plant that crops up in the lawn.
God: The spring rains and warm weather probably make grass grow really fast. That must make the Suburbanites happy.
St. Francis: Apparently not, Lord. As soon as it grows a little, they cut it... sometimes twice a week.
God: They cut it? Do they then bail it like hay?
St. Francis: Not exactly, Lord. Most of them rake it up and put it in bags.
God: They bag it? Why? Is it a cash crop? Do they sell it?
St. Francis: No Sir. Just the opposite. They pay to throw it away.
God: Now let me get this straight. They fertilize grass so when it does grow, they cut it off and pay to throw it away?
St. Francis: Yes, Sir.
God: These Suburbanites must be relieved in the summer when we cut back on the rain and turn up the heat. That surely slows the growth and saves them a lot of work.
St. Francis: You are not going to believe this Lord. When the grass stops growing so fast, they drag out hoses and pay more money to water it so they can continue to mow it and pay to get rid of it.
God: What nonsense. At least they kept some of the trees. That was a sheer stroke of genius, if I do say so myself. The trees grow leaves in the spring to provide beauty and shade in the summer. In the autumn they fall to the ground and form a natural blanket to keep moisture in the soil and protect the trees and bushes. Plus, as they rot, the leaves form compost to enhance the soil. It's a natural circle of life.
St. Francis: You better sit down, Lord. The Suburbanites have drawn a new circle. As soon as the leaves fall, they rake them into great piles and pay to have them hauled away.
God: No. What do they do to protect the shrub and tree roots in the winter and to keep the soil moist and loose?
St. Francis: After throwing away the leaves, they go out and buy something which they call mulch. The haul it home and spread it around in place of the leaves.
God: And where do they get this mulch?
St. Francis: They cut down trees and grind them up to make the mulch.
God: Enough. I don't want to think about this anymore. Sister Catherine, you're in charge of the arts. What movie have you scheduled for us tonight?
Sister Catherine: "Dumb and Dumber", Lord. It's a real stupid movie about.....
God: Never mind, I think I just heard the whole story from St. Francis.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Lawn
Wednesday, November 29, 2006
Lawn Repair and Renovation!
lawn
When repairing or renovating lawns, specialized equipment can increase effectiveness and make the job much easier. Match equipment to the task that needs to be done for best results.
Aerating machines that actually pull out soil cores are suggested for use on lawns.
As mentioned already, core aerification is an important and highly recommended practice for many lawns. This process is useful to help reduce soil compaction and thatch, improve surface drainage, and improve conditions prior to overseeding. Core aerifiers insert hollow tines into the lawn and pull out plugs of soil. Size of cores removed will depend on the machine used, soil moisture, and type of soil. Core spacing also varies with the specific machine being used. Machines can be rented or aerifying services are available for hire.
Spikers are similar to core aerifiers in that they make holes in the soil. However, they use solid tines, and thus, do not remove cores.
Vertical mowers have rotating blades arranged vertically that can cut into turf and soil. These machines can be used to remove thatch (dethatching). Turfgrass rooting in the thatch is typically torn out, so reseeding is suggested afterwards. Vertical mowers can also roughen the soil prior to overseeding areas.
Slit-seeders are useful for lawn renovation projects. Slit-seeders combine vertical mowing with seeding. As the machine goes across the lawn, it opens the soil and deposits seed directly into the soil opening. Most slit-seeders have a roller that helps firm the soil after seeding. Seed is metered at a predetermined rate; it's suggested to apply half the desired seeding rate in one direction and the other half on a second pass perpendicular to the first.
Silt-seeding equipment is useful for lawn renovation.
Since the seed is placed in direct contact with the soil, seeding success is usually high when using slit-seeders. In addition, existing grass and debris does not need to be completely removed prior to the overseeding process. Timing should be the same as for conventional lawn seeding, which ideally would be late August into early September. Many rental agencies carry slit-seeders or many lawn and landscape services can do it for hire.
Determining the cause of the lawn decline is the first step in the lawn renovation process. Many lawn problems originate from poor soil conditions. Heavy clay, compacted soils, and poorly drained soils may be the reason a lawn is doing poorly. These situations can be corrected during renovation. On the other hand, many lawn problems tend to be due to pests, weather conditions, or poor lawn care practices. Perhaps improved mowing, fertilizing, and watering may be all that's required to achieve acceptable lawn quality.
Typical Lawn Care Mistakes and Problems They Can Create.
Mowing Too Short.
Crabgrass.
Diseases.
Frequent, Light Watering.
Overwatering Thatch.
Overfertilizing.
Underfertilizing.
Weeds.
Once the problem has been identified, the renovation process may begin. Think of renovation as fitting one of three levels: overseeding with little additional work; significant work, but allowing existing grass to remain; or completely removing the existing lawn and starting over.
The decision of which level to choose depends on how bad the lawn looks and what caused the problem. For example, if the lawn is just a little thin, overseeding with a quality lawn seed in late August or early September may be the answer. Use of a slit-seeder is an ideal way to overseed lawns. Seed may also be broadcast over thin lawn areas, but there needs to be good soil to seed contact. Dethatchers or vertical mowers can also be used to tear out excess debris prior to overseeding. In addition, slit-seeding could also be done directly through grass and/or weeds killed with the nonselective herbicide glyphosate. All of these types of overseeding procedures do not require additional soil modification.
When soil problems exist under a lawn, there are ways to address them without tearing up the lawn. As mentioned earlier, core aerifying is suggested for problems such as thatch and soil compaction. Aerifying, overseeding, and slit-seeding (breaks up cores) may be an ideal level of renovation for many lawns.
Unfortunately, some lawn problems, such as soil problems of severe compaction, high clay levels, or poor drainage, may require starting over. Remove existing grass or rototill it. High populations of perennial weed species may require use of a nonselective herbicide, such as glyphosate. Thoroughly work the soil to a depth of six inches. Add amendments such as compost, rotted manure, organic topsoil, and peat. Follow proper selection and establishment procedures to get the new lawn off to a good start.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn
When repairing or renovating lawns, specialized equipment can increase effectiveness and make the job much easier. Match equipment to the task that needs to be done for best results.
Aerating machines that actually pull out soil cores are suggested for use on lawns.
As mentioned already, core aerification is an important and highly recommended practice for many lawns. This process is useful to help reduce soil compaction and thatch, improve surface drainage, and improve conditions prior to overseeding. Core aerifiers insert hollow tines into the lawn and pull out plugs of soil. Size of cores removed will depend on the machine used, soil moisture, and type of soil. Core spacing also varies with the specific machine being used. Machines can be rented or aerifying services are available for hire.
Spikers are similar to core aerifiers in that they make holes in the soil. However, they use solid tines, and thus, do not remove cores.
Vertical mowers have rotating blades arranged vertically that can cut into turf and soil. These machines can be used to remove thatch (dethatching). Turfgrass rooting in the thatch is typically torn out, so reseeding is suggested afterwards. Vertical mowers can also roughen the soil prior to overseeding areas.
Slit-seeders are useful for lawn renovation projects. Slit-seeders combine vertical mowing with seeding. As the machine goes across the lawn, it opens the soil and deposits seed directly into the soil opening. Most slit-seeders have a roller that helps firm the soil after seeding. Seed is metered at a predetermined rate; it's suggested to apply half the desired seeding rate in one direction and the other half on a second pass perpendicular to the first.
Silt-seeding equipment is useful for lawn renovation.
Since the seed is placed in direct contact with the soil, seeding success is usually high when using slit-seeders. In addition, existing grass and debris does not need to be completely removed prior to the overseeding process. Timing should be the same as for conventional lawn seeding, which ideally would be late August into early September. Many rental agencies carry slit-seeders or many lawn and landscape services can do it for hire.
Determining the cause of the lawn decline is the first step in the lawn renovation process. Many lawn problems originate from poor soil conditions. Heavy clay, compacted soils, and poorly drained soils may be the reason a lawn is doing poorly. These situations can be corrected during renovation. On the other hand, many lawn problems tend to be due to pests, weather conditions, or poor lawn care practices. Perhaps improved mowing, fertilizing, and watering may be all that's required to achieve acceptable lawn quality.
Typical Lawn Care Mistakes and Problems They Can Create.
Mowing Too Short.
Crabgrass.
Diseases.
Frequent, Light Watering.
Overwatering Thatch.
Overfertilizing.
Underfertilizing.
Weeds.
Once the problem has been identified, the renovation process may begin. Think of renovation as fitting one of three levels: overseeding with little additional work; significant work, but allowing existing grass to remain; or completely removing the existing lawn and starting over.
The decision of which level to choose depends on how bad the lawn looks and what caused the problem. For example, if the lawn is just a little thin, overseeding with a quality lawn seed in late August or early September may be the answer. Use of a slit-seeder is an ideal way to overseed lawns. Seed may also be broadcast over thin lawn areas, but there needs to be good soil to seed contact. Dethatchers or vertical mowers can also be used to tear out excess debris prior to overseeding. In addition, slit-seeding could also be done directly through grass and/or weeds killed with the nonselective herbicide glyphosate. All of these types of overseeding procedures do not require additional soil modification.
When soil problems exist under a lawn, there are ways to address them without tearing up the lawn. As mentioned earlier, core aerifying is suggested for problems such as thatch and soil compaction. Aerifying, overseeding, and slit-seeding (breaks up cores) may be an ideal level of renovation for many lawns.
Unfortunately, some lawn problems, such as soil problems of severe compaction, high clay levels, or poor drainage, may require starting over. Remove existing grass or rototill it. High populations of perennial weed species may require use of a nonselective herbicide, such as glyphosate. Thoroughly work the soil to a depth of six inches. Add amendments such as compost, rotted manure, organic topsoil, and peat. Follow proper selection and establishment procedures to get the new lawn off to a good start.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
lawn
Tuesday, November 28, 2006
Thatch in Your Lawn and How to Handle it!
lawn
Thatch is a dense layer of living and dead organic matter on the soil surface.
Thatch in lawns is often misunderstood; both its cause and control. Some lawns have serious thatch problems while others do not. Thatch is a layer of living and dead organic matter that occurs between the green matter and the soil surface. Excessive thatch (over 1/2 inch thick) creates a favorable environment for pests and disease, an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots, and can interfere with some lawn care practices.
The primary component of thatch is turfgrass stems and roots. It accumulates as these plant parts buildup faster than they breakdown. Thatch problems are due to a combination of biological, cultural, and environmental factors. Cultural practices can have a big impact on thatch. For example, heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications or overwatering frequently contribute to thatch, because they cause the lawn to grow excessively fast. Avoid overfertilizing and overwatering. Despite popular belief, short clippings dropped on the lawn after mowing are not the cause of thatch buildup. Clippings are very high in water content and breakdown rapidly when returned to lawns after mowing, assuming lawns are mowed on a regular basis (not removing more than one-third of the leaf blade)
Environmental factors typically are another primary case of thatch. Conditions favoring thatch include heavy, wet soils; alkaline, or high pH soils; and soil compaction. All are commonly met.
As thatch levels accumulate to greater than 1/2 inch, lawn problems may begin, and the thatch needs to be controlled. Thatch may be torn out with a dethatcher or vertical mower, but will most likely return unless the cause is corrected. Mechanical dethatching is also very destructive to the lawn because roots are in thatch instead of soil, so plants tear out easily. Overseeding is usually required afterwards. For this reason, it's best to tear out thatch in late August for optimum reseeding timing.
Core aerating helps degrade thatch and also helps solve some of the causes of thatch.
Core aerification, followed by topdressing are two methods that will generally correct the reasons thatch is accumulating. Core aerifying machines will pull up small soil cores to the surface that are left there to act like topdressing. The holes created help solve problems such as compaction or poor drainage. Topdressing is simply adding a thin layer(1/8 to 1/4 inch) of compatible soil over the thatch, which adds microorganisms to help in breakdown.
Aerifying equipment may be rented or services are available to do it for hire. Aerifying is an excellent lawn practice with many benefits, as it helps solve soil problems that in turn leads to better root systems and healthier lawns. Aerify in spring or fall, making sure adequate moisture exists in the soil. Make two trips over the lawn, the second perpendicular to the first. An average of 15 to 20 aeration holes per square foot is suggested. Cores should remain on the surface and allowed to air dry. These cores act as topdressing that helps degrade thatch. Additional topdressing material could be added after core aerifying if desired.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn
Thatch is a dense layer of living and dead organic matter on the soil surface.
Thatch in lawns is often misunderstood; both its cause and control. Some lawns have serious thatch problems while others do not. Thatch is a layer of living and dead organic matter that occurs between the green matter and the soil surface. Excessive thatch (over 1/2 inch thick) creates a favorable environment for pests and disease, an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots, and can interfere with some lawn care practices.
The primary component of thatch is turfgrass stems and roots. It accumulates as these plant parts buildup faster than they breakdown. Thatch problems are due to a combination of biological, cultural, and environmental factors. Cultural practices can have a big impact on thatch. For example, heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications or overwatering frequently contribute to thatch, because they cause the lawn to grow excessively fast. Avoid overfertilizing and overwatering. Despite popular belief, short clippings dropped on the lawn after mowing are not the cause of thatch buildup. Clippings are very high in water content and breakdown rapidly when returned to lawns after mowing, assuming lawns are mowed on a regular basis (not removing more than one-third of the leaf blade)
Environmental factors typically are another primary case of thatch. Conditions favoring thatch include heavy, wet soils; alkaline, or high pH soils; and soil compaction. All are commonly met.
As thatch levels accumulate to greater than 1/2 inch, lawn problems may begin, and the thatch needs to be controlled. Thatch may be torn out with a dethatcher or vertical mower, but will most likely return unless the cause is corrected. Mechanical dethatching is also very destructive to the lawn because roots are in thatch instead of soil, so plants tear out easily. Overseeding is usually required afterwards. For this reason, it's best to tear out thatch in late August for optimum reseeding timing.
Core aerating helps degrade thatch and also helps solve some of the causes of thatch.
Core aerification, followed by topdressing are two methods that will generally correct the reasons thatch is accumulating. Core aerifying machines will pull up small soil cores to the surface that are left there to act like topdressing. The holes created help solve problems such as compaction or poor drainage. Topdressing is simply adding a thin layer(1/8 to 1/4 inch) of compatible soil over the thatch, which adds microorganisms to help in breakdown.
Aerifying equipment may be rented or services are available to do it for hire. Aerifying is an excellent lawn practice with many benefits, as it helps solve soil problems that in turn leads to better root systems and healthier lawns. Aerify in spring or fall, making sure adequate moisture exists in the soil. Make two trips over the lawn, the second perpendicular to the first. An average of 15 to 20 aeration holes per square foot is suggested. Cores should remain on the surface and allowed to air dry. These cores act as topdressing that helps degrade thatch. Additional topdressing material could be added after core aerifying if desired.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
lawn
Proper Handling and Use of Pesticides on Your Lawn!
This Article deals with the problems involved in Using and Handling Pesticides.
Sometimes, even with good lawn care practices, weather conditions or other factors can cause pest problems to develop. Pesticides can help control many lawn pests. But pesticides have risks as well as benefits, and it's important to use them properly.
The chemicals we call pesticides include insecticides, herbicides, and fungicides. These products are designed to kill or control pest insects, weeds, and fungal diseases. Pesticides can be very effective. But don't be tempted to rely solely on pesticides as a quick-fix solution to any lawn problem. Serious, ongoing pest problems are often a sign that your lawn is not getting everything it needs. In other words, the pests may be a symptom of an underlying problem. You need to correct the underlying problem to reduce the chance that the pest will reappear.
All pesticides are toxic to some degree. This means they can pose some risk to you, to your children and pets, and to any wildlife that venture onto your lawn, especially if these chemicals are overused or carelessly applied. Pesticides can also kill earthworms and other beneficial organisms, disrupting the ecological balance of your lawn.
Use pesticides to minimize pests, not eradicate them. Eradication is often impossible and unnecessary. Be sure you have accurately identified the pest so you can choose the best pesticide for the job and use it most effectively. Obtain professional advice from your county extension agent or a local expert. Spot treat whenever possible. In most cases, it isn't necessary to treat the whole lawn with pesticides if the problem is confined to certain areas. Spraying more than necessary is wasteful and can be environmentally damaging.
Store pesticides out of children's reach in a locked cabinet or garden shed. When Spraying, protect your skin, your eyes and your lungs. Wear gloves, long sleeves, long pants, eye protection and a respirator. Wash this clothing separately before using it again. Read the entire label and follow its instructions as well as any local and state regulations. Keep children and pets away from pesticides, and make sure no one goes on a treated lawn for at least the time prescribed by the pesticide label.
If you have questions about a pesticide, call EPA's tollfree National Pesticide Telecommunications Network (1-800-858-7378). For general information on minimizing pesticide risks, call or write EPA for a free copy of the Citizen's Guide to Pesticides. The number to call is 703-305-5017; the address is: EPA, Office of Pesticide Programs, Field Operations Division,H7506C, 401M Street, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20460.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
Sometimes, even with good lawn care practices, weather conditions or other factors can cause pest problems to develop. Pesticides can help control many lawn pests. But pesticides have risks as well as benefits, and it's important to use them properly.
The chemicals we call pesticides include insecticides, herbicides, and fungicides. These products are designed to kill or control pest insects, weeds, and fungal diseases. Pesticides can be very effective. But don't be tempted to rely solely on pesticides as a quick-fix solution to any lawn problem. Serious, ongoing pest problems are often a sign that your lawn is not getting everything it needs. In other words, the pests may be a symptom of an underlying problem. You need to correct the underlying problem to reduce the chance that the pest will reappear.
All pesticides are toxic to some degree. This means they can pose some risk to you, to your children and pets, and to any wildlife that venture onto your lawn, especially if these chemicals are overused or carelessly applied. Pesticides can also kill earthworms and other beneficial organisms, disrupting the ecological balance of your lawn.
Use pesticides to minimize pests, not eradicate them. Eradication is often impossible and unnecessary. Be sure you have accurately identified the pest so you can choose the best pesticide for the job and use it most effectively. Obtain professional advice from your county extension agent or a local expert. Spot treat whenever possible. In most cases, it isn't necessary to treat the whole lawn with pesticides if the problem is confined to certain areas. Spraying more than necessary is wasteful and can be environmentally damaging.
Store pesticides out of children's reach in a locked cabinet or garden shed. When Spraying, protect your skin, your eyes and your lungs. Wear gloves, long sleeves, long pants, eye protection and a respirator. Wash this clothing separately before using it again. Read the entire label and follow its instructions as well as any local and state regulations. Keep children and pets away from pesticides, and make sure no one goes on a treated lawn for at least the time prescribed by the pesticide label.
If you have questions about a pesticide, call EPA's tollfree National Pesticide Telecommunications Network (1-800-858-7378). For general information on minimizing pesticide risks, call or write EPA for a free copy of the Citizen's Guide to Pesticides. The number to call is 703-305-5017; the address is: EPA, Office of Pesticide Programs, Field Operations Division,H7506C, 401M Street, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20460.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
Monday, November 27, 2006
Lawn Watering Secrets!
Many people are not sure when to water their lawn. But don't wait until it turns brown. Inadequate watering puts your lawn under severe stress, which increases its susceptibility to insects and disease. Instead, develop a regimen for regular watering.
Water before the heat of the day, in the morning, even before sunrise. Watering early gives the water a chance to soak in rather than evaporating away. Plus, if there is some excess water that cannot be absorbed, it will have a chance to evaporate. Watering in the evening allows the water to soak in, but excess water will not evaporate and will foster fungal damage.
It is important to water deeply to encourage deep root growth. Light watering results in roots that stay near the surface, because that is where the water is. The shallow ground dries out quickly and so the lawn will need more frequent watering. The deeper soil remains moist longer and so the lawn is less likely to suffer during a drought. Shallow roots are also considered to be a likely cause of thatch. The soil should be moist about 3 to 4 inches deep.
Avoid over-watering; more people over-water than under-water. You may be one of the people who feel that if a little water is good, then a lot of water is even better. That is not true. The objective is to provide enough water so that the lawn does not thirst. Too much water can carry away nutrients, foster fungal spores and disease and stress the lawn.
Most lawns require one to two inches of water a week. The best way to water, especially to conserve water or if the lawn is on a slope, is to water for 5 minutes on and 15 minutes off, until the desired amount of water is delivered. This gives the water a chance to soak in and reduces runoff.
To determine if you are delivering the proper amount of water, place a few cans around on the lawn to catch the water. Use something that has straight sides so you get an accurate measurement. Tall cans can deflect water, so it is best to use short cans like tuna or cat food cans. Measure the water in the cans and multiply by the number of times a week you water. The result is the number of inches of water being delivered every week. Each can should yield about one to two inches per week depending on temperature, shade and type of grass. Sunny and warm locations will need more water. Remember to include any water from rain in your calculations.
To recap, the best way to water is in the morning, two to four times a week, in short intervals but enough to thoroughly soak the ground. A sprinkler system is the best way to deliver the water because it consistently covers the entire lawn and it can be programmed to deliver the water when and as frequently as needed.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Water before the heat of the day, in the morning, even before sunrise. Watering early gives the water a chance to soak in rather than evaporating away. Plus, if there is some excess water that cannot be absorbed, it will have a chance to evaporate. Watering in the evening allows the water to soak in, but excess water will not evaporate and will foster fungal damage.
It is important to water deeply to encourage deep root growth. Light watering results in roots that stay near the surface, because that is where the water is. The shallow ground dries out quickly and so the lawn will need more frequent watering. The deeper soil remains moist longer and so the lawn is less likely to suffer during a drought. Shallow roots are also considered to be a likely cause of thatch. The soil should be moist about 3 to 4 inches deep.
Avoid over-watering; more people over-water than under-water. You may be one of the people who feel that if a little water is good, then a lot of water is even better. That is not true. The objective is to provide enough water so that the lawn does not thirst. Too much water can carry away nutrients, foster fungal spores and disease and stress the lawn.
Most lawns require one to two inches of water a week. The best way to water, especially to conserve water or if the lawn is on a slope, is to water for 5 minutes on and 15 minutes off, until the desired amount of water is delivered. This gives the water a chance to soak in and reduces runoff.
To determine if you are delivering the proper amount of water, place a few cans around on the lawn to catch the water. Use something that has straight sides so you get an accurate measurement. Tall cans can deflect water, so it is best to use short cans like tuna or cat food cans. Measure the water in the cans and multiply by the number of times a week you water. The result is the number of inches of water being delivered every week. Each can should yield about one to two inches per week depending on temperature, shade and type of grass. Sunny and warm locations will need more water. Remember to include any water from rain in your calculations.
To recap, the best way to water is in the morning, two to four times a week, in short intervals but enough to thoroughly soak the ground. A sprinkler system is the best way to deliver the water because it consistently covers the entire lawn and it can be programmed to deliver the water when and as frequently as needed.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Insects and Animals on your Lawn - What to Do!
This is perhaps the part about lawn care that causes people to become ill or at least very upset. But let’s face it, the lawn is the great outdoors after all and there will be many creatures that occupy it. The number of insects, rodents, and other creatures will vary depending on where you live. But some common insects and others include:
spiders
bees
flies
mosquitoes
slugs
mice
worms
small snakes
ants
grasshoppers
chipmunks
squirrels
rabbits
deer
While you cannot destroy every living creature that inhabits your yard, you can help keep these creatures from destroying your plants and flowers. Many weed killers are also bug killers. Once you have determined which insects are eating you plants, you should be able to find a chemical solution to the problem.
You should approach some of these insects and small animals with caution, however. Certain species of spider are poisonous, while other insects can cause huge welts to form on your skin if you are not careful. And deer, well, let’s just hope you are never chased down the street by one! Your life flashing before you as you leap onto another person’s porch hoping the deer will keep on going.
Always year your gloves and do not touch snakes, small rodents, and other animals. You could run the risk of spending your Saturday afternoon in the emergency room instead of tending to your lawn.
In order to reduce the number of insects on your lawn, you should:
rake the leaves during the fall and spring and get rid of the piles immediately
clean gutters often
clean overhangs, porch railings, and lawn furniture
replenish mulch each year
mow the lawn when it needs it
These simple housekeeping tips will help you keep your lawn neat and clean while reducing the number of insects. Planting herbs such as rosemary and basil will help reduce the number of mosquitoes. Marigolds will help keep certain types of beetles away as well.
But some insects are good for your lawn. Help them stick around by planting Dogwood, butterfly weed, and Queen Anne’s lace. These plants will also attract butterflies and wild birds to your lawn.
While you cannot always pick your neighbours, you do have a little control over other types of pests. By planting flowers and plants strategically around your lawn, you will not only keep insects at bay, you will also enhance your lawn’s beauty.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
spiders
bees
flies
mosquitoes
slugs
mice
worms
small snakes
ants
grasshoppers
chipmunks
squirrels
rabbits
deer
While you cannot destroy every living creature that inhabits your yard, you can help keep these creatures from destroying your plants and flowers. Many weed killers are also bug killers. Once you have determined which insects are eating you plants, you should be able to find a chemical solution to the problem.
You should approach some of these insects and small animals with caution, however. Certain species of spider are poisonous, while other insects can cause huge welts to form on your skin if you are not careful. And deer, well, let’s just hope you are never chased down the street by one! Your life flashing before you as you leap onto another person’s porch hoping the deer will keep on going.
Always year your gloves and do not touch snakes, small rodents, and other animals. You could run the risk of spending your Saturday afternoon in the emergency room instead of tending to your lawn.
In order to reduce the number of insects on your lawn, you should:
rake the leaves during the fall and spring and get rid of the piles immediately
clean gutters often
clean overhangs, porch railings, and lawn furniture
replenish mulch each year
mow the lawn when it needs it
These simple housekeeping tips will help you keep your lawn neat and clean while reducing the number of insects. Planting herbs such as rosemary and basil will help reduce the number of mosquitoes. Marigolds will help keep certain types of beetles away as well.
But some insects are good for your lawn. Help them stick around by planting Dogwood, butterfly weed, and Queen Anne’s lace. These plants will also attract butterflies and wild birds to your lawn.
While you cannot always pick your neighbours, you do have a little control over other types of pests. By planting flowers and plants strategically around your lawn, you will not only keep insects at bay, you will also enhance your lawn’s beauty.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Sunday, November 26, 2006
How to Improve the Soil Quality of Your Lawn!
Good soil is the foundation of a healthy lawn. To grow well, your lawn needs soil with good texture, some key nutrients, and the right pH, or acidity/alkalinity balance. Start by checking the texture of your soil to see whether it's heavy with clay, light and sandy, or somewhere in between. Lawns grow best in soil with intermediate or "loamy" soils that have a mix of clay, silt, and sand.
Whatever soil type you have, you can probably improve it by periodically adding organic matter like compost, manure, or grass clippings. Organic matter helps to lighten a predominantly clay soil and it helps sandy soil retain water and nutrients. Also check to see if your soil is packed down from lots of use or heavy clay content. This makes it harder for air and water to penetrate, and for grass roots to grow.
To loosen compacted soil, some lawns may need to be aerated several times a year. This process involves pulling out plugs of soil to create air spaces, so water and nutrients can again penetrate to the grass roots.
Most lawns need to be fertilized every year, because they need more nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium than soils usually contain. These three elements are the primary ingredients found in most lawn fertilizers. It's important not to over-fertilize--you could do more harm to your lawn than good--and it's best to use a slow-release fertilizer that feeds the lawn slowly.
It's also important to check the soil's pH. Grass is best able to absorb nutrients in a slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Soil that is too acidic can be "sweetened" with lime; soil that's not acid enough can be made more sour by adding sulfur. Have your soil tested periodically to see whether it needs more organic matter or the pH needs adjusting.
Your local nursery should be able to tell you how to do this. These experts can also help you choose the right fertilizer, compost, and other "soil amendments," and they can advise you about aerating if your soil is compacted. If a professional service takes care of your lawn, make sure it takes these same steps to develop good soil. There's no getting around it: your lawn's health is only as good as the soil it grows in.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Whatever soil type you have, you can probably improve it by periodically adding organic matter like compost, manure, or grass clippings. Organic matter helps to lighten a predominantly clay soil and it helps sandy soil retain water and nutrients. Also check to see if your soil is packed down from lots of use or heavy clay content. This makes it harder for air and water to penetrate, and for grass roots to grow.
To loosen compacted soil, some lawns may need to be aerated several times a year. This process involves pulling out plugs of soil to create air spaces, so water and nutrients can again penetrate to the grass roots.
Most lawns need to be fertilized every year, because they need more nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium than soils usually contain. These three elements are the primary ingredients found in most lawn fertilizers. It's important not to over-fertilize--you could do more harm to your lawn than good--and it's best to use a slow-release fertilizer that feeds the lawn slowly.
It's also important to check the soil's pH. Grass is best able to absorb nutrients in a slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Soil that is too acidic can be "sweetened" with lime; soil that's not acid enough can be made more sour by adding sulfur. Have your soil tested periodically to see whether it needs more organic matter or the pH needs adjusting.
Your local nursery should be able to tell you how to do this. These experts can also help you choose the right fertilizer, compost, and other "soil amendments," and they can advise you about aerating if your soil is compacted. If a professional service takes care of your lawn, make sure it takes these same steps to develop good soil. There's no getting around it: your lawn's health is only as good as the soil it grows in.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Saturday, November 25, 2006
How to Deal with Crabgrass!
This Article deals with the perennial problem of Crabgrass and how to control it. Read and enjoy!
Crabgrass is a warm season grass that does its most vigorous growing in June and July. Crabgrass is killed by the first frost of the season. If you live in a warmer climate it may only go dormant or semi-dormant during the cooler months. The way to deal with crabgrass is to get it before it gets going.
What Crabgrass Likes
If you make a nice home for it in your yard, crabgrass will do very well. By knowing your enemy, you will know what not to do. Crabgrass likes warm weather and sunshine. It doesn't mind nutrient poor soils. It likes thin turf so there is plenty of sun shining down on it. Furthermore it likes short lawns, again so it can gather the suns warming rays. Crabgrass dies every year in all but the warmest climates but it leaves seed to carry on its legacy.
What You Can Do to Control Crabgrass
First, deny it sunshine. Mow your lawn to a height of 2 1/2 to 3 inches. Fertilize your lawn so that it fills in and keeps sunlight off the ground. Reseed thin patches in your lawn, again, to deny the seeds sunshine. These are all things you should be doing anyway. Keeping your lawn healthy is the most effective way to prevent crabgrass.
Next, as another preventative measure, use pre-emergent herbicides. Pre-emergent just means "kill it before it starts growing". Even in warmer climates, pre-emergents are beneficial. Most people will be applying the herbicides in early spring, but in subtropical zones, like Southern California, people will apply them in December and January. Note though that most varieties of these herbicides will also inhibit desirable seed growth. So time your reseeding so that the seeds are not stopped by the herbicide.
In the summer months, there isn't much you can do to fight crabgrass. It is a fast-growing, vigorous weed. The best plan is to prevent it from getting a hold in your lawn next year. Deal with crabgrass before it becomes a problem.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
Crabgrass is a warm season grass that does its most vigorous growing in June and July. Crabgrass is killed by the first frost of the season. If you live in a warmer climate it may only go dormant or semi-dormant during the cooler months. The way to deal with crabgrass is to get it before it gets going.
What Crabgrass Likes
If you make a nice home for it in your yard, crabgrass will do very well. By knowing your enemy, you will know what not to do. Crabgrass likes warm weather and sunshine. It doesn't mind nutrient poor soils. It likes thin turf so there is plenty of sun shining down on it. Furthermore it likes short lawns, again so it can gather the suns warming rays. Crabgrass dies every year in all but the warmest climates but it leaves seed to carry on its legacy.
What You Can Do to Control Crabgrass
First, deny it sunshine. Mow your lawn to a height of 2 1/2 to 3 inches. Fertilize your lawn so that it fills in and keeps sunlight off the ground. Reseed thin patches in your lawn, again, to deny the seeds sunshine. These are all things you should be doing anyway. Keeping your lawn healthy is the most effective way to prevent crabgrass.
Next, as another preventative measure, use pre-emergent herbicides. Pre-emergent just means "kill it before it starts growing". Even in warmer climates, pre-emergents are beneficial. Most people will be applying the herbicides in early spring, but in subtropical zones, like Southern California, people will apply them in December and January. Note though that most varieties of these herbicides will also inhibit desirable seed growth. So time your reseeding so that the seeds are not stopped by the herbicide.
In the summer months, there isn't much you can do to fight crabgrass. It is a fast-growing, vigorous weed. The best plan is to prevent it from getting a hold in your lawn next year. Deal with crabgrass before it becomes a problem.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Terry Blackburn - EzineArticles Expert Author
Friday, November 24, 2006
Lawn Mushrooms - How to Deal with Them!
Here is my Article published in www.ezinearticles.com... i hope you enjoy it! terry
In order to understand what is involved in the permanent removal of lawn mushrooms, it is important to know where they come from, and what causes them. Lawn mushrooms are simply the product of fungi infested in you yard soil in one or more areas of your yard. They are actually the fruit of this fungus, and feed off different sources that could be present. Lawn mushrooms feed off decaying matter such as:
. Old mulch
. Animal waste
. Rotting tree stumps
Abundance of food sources for the fungi in your yard soil will pretty much ensure the presence of lawn mushrooms in your yard. The more food sources for the fungi, the bigger the lawn mushrooms will grow. That is the reason sometimes the lawn mushrooms will be very large, and sometimes they will be very small. It all depends on the amount of food sources the fungi has available. Permanently ridding your yard of lawn mushrooms means totally eliminating the food sources for the fungi. While this can be difficult, and sometimes impossible, the following paragraphs will provide some insight on what is involved in permanently ridding your yard of lawn mushrooms.
Most people spend a lot of time trying to rid their yard of lawn mushrooms. Removing them as you see them is one method of removal, but it will be a never-ending task during several months of the year. Continual removal will keep the appearance of your yard up to par, but the source of the lawn mushrooms will still be present. Thus, the lawn mushrooms are likely to return in the future.
Chemical removal is another method home owners use to rid their yards of lawn mushrooms. As with continual removal, the chemicals will normally kill the mushrooms that are present. But with the food sources for the fungi still present in your yard soil, the lawn mushrooms are likely to return.
Some homeowners research to find a more permanent end to their lawn mushroom problem. There is only one way to permanently rid your yard of lawn mushrooms, and that is to exhaust all of the food sources in your yard and soil. Performing the following tasks could aid in permanently ridding your yard of lawn mushrooms:
. Clean up pet waste
. Dispose of rotting mulch
. Have old tree stumps ground
Having old tree stumps ground may aid in the permanent ridding of lawn mushrooms, but it could also cause a type of mushroom called fairy rings to appear. Most lawn mushrooms do not harm your lawn, but fairy rings are known to commonly kill grass in certain areas of your lawn.
The only effective way of permanent removal of lawn mushrooms of any kind is to rid the fungi of its food source. Sometimes, even after an old tree stump has been removed, the fairy rings and lawn mushrooms come back. In this case, the soil containing the fungi had to be removed, as well. When the food sources for the fungi have all been exhausted, and any soil infested with the mold spores has been removed, you should cease to see the presence of lawn mushrooms in your yard.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
In order to understand what is involved in the permanent removal of lawn mushrooms, it is important to know where they come from, and what causes them. Lawn mushrooms are simply the product of fungi infested in you yard soil in one or more areas of your yard. They are actually the fruit of this fungus, and feed off different sources that could be present. Lawn mushrooms feed off decaying matter such as:
. Old mulch
. Animal waste
. Rotting tree stumps
Abundance of food sources for the fungi in your yard soil will pretty much ensure the presence of lawn mushrooms in your yard. The more food sources for the fungi, the bigger the lawn mushrooms will grow. That is the reason sometimes the lawn mushrooms will be very large, and sometimes they will be very small. It all depends on the amount of food sources the fungi has available. Permanently ridding your yard of lawn mushrooms means totally eliminating the food sources for the fungi. While this can be difficult, and sometimes impossible, the following paragraphs will provide some insight on what is involved in permanently ridding your yard of lawn mushrooms.
Most people spend a lot of time trying to rid their yard of lawn mushrooms. Removing them as you see them is one method of removal, but it will be a never-ending task during several months of the year. Continual removal will keep the appearance of your yard up to par, but the source of the lawn mushrooms will still be present. Thus, the lawn mushrooms are likely to return in the future.
Chemical removal is another method home owners use to rid their yards of lawn mushrooms. As with continual removal, the chemicals will normally kill the mushrooms that are present. But with the food sources for the fungi still present in your yard soil, the lawn mushrooms are likely to return.
Some homeowners research to find a more permanent end to their lawn mushroom problem. There is only one way to permanently rid your yard of lawn mushrooms, and that is to exhaust all of the food sources in your yard and soil. Performing the following tasks could aid in permanently ridding your yard of lawn mushrooms:
. Clean up pet waste
. Dispose of rotting mulch
. Have old tree stumps ground
Having old tree stumps ground may aid in the permanent ridding of lawn mushrooms, but it could also cause a type of mushroom called fairy rings to appear. Most lawn mushrooms do not harm your lawn, but fairy rings are known to commonly kill grass in certain areas of your lawn.
The only effective way of permanent removal of lawn mushrooms of any kind is to rid the fungi of its food source. Sometimes, even after an old tree stump has been removed, the fairy rings and lawn mushrooms come back. In this case, the soil containing the fungi had to be removed, as well. When the food sources for the fungi have all been exhausted, and any soil infested with the mold spores has been removed, you should cease to see the presence of lawn mushrooms in your yard.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Thursday, November 23, 2006
Sodding or Seeding your Lawn!
Here is an Article I had published at www.ezinearticles.com.... enjoy. terry
Site Preparation
Whether seeding or sodding, home lawn quality is closely tied into how well the soil and site were prepared prior to lawn establishment. Taking shortcuts often comes back to haunt the homeowner in the form of chronic lawn problems, such as thatch, weeds, and disease.
Eliminating weed problems existing on the site is an important first step. Perennial weeds, such as quackgrass, need to be controlled prior to seeding or sodding the lawn. One option is to dig them out by hand, making sure roots and stems are completely removed. Another option is to use a translocated (moves within plant) nonselective herbicide, such as glyphosate (sold as Roundup and other trade names). Glufosinate ammonium (Finale) does not translocate, so may only provide limited control of perennial weeds. Both herbicides don't leave active soil residues that would harm seedlings. Read, understand, and follow all label directions.
Another important step in preparing for lawn establishment is to thoroughly work the soil (by rotary tiller) before seeding or sodding. Amend poor soils, such as heavy clay, by adding organic matter. Sources include compost, rotted manure, peat, and quality topsoil. Incorporate these materials into the existing soil, rather than layering them on the surface. Sand is not suggested as a material to improve clay soils for home lawns. Six inches or more of well prepared soil is suggested.
Soil testing is also suggested prior to establishment. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Office on how to get a soil test. Key information revealed by soil testing includes soil pH and amount of available nutrients such as phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). If major modifications are needed, it is easier to make these prior to establishing the lawn and lawns will get off to a better start when soils are modified prior to establishment. Lawn grasses prefer soil pH values between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acidic).
Lower soil pH (make more acidic) by adding elemental sulfur. Raise soil pH (make more alkaline) by adding limestone. Only add these materials when soil tests indicate a need and base the rate on soil test results. Starter fertilizers may also be mixed into the soil surface prior to lawn establishment. Starter fertilizers typically have balanced ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N, P, K), such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12. Soil test results may reveal nutrient shortages which would influence how much starter fertilizer is needed.
When preparing the soil, it's important to establish a favorable final grade. Rough grading should include removal of any rocks or other debris. Avoid burying any construction debris, as this could cause problems for the grass later. Eliminate any depressions or raised areas. Final slopes should be one to two percent away from buildings (one to two feet drop per 100 feet of run) to assure good surface drainage.
Seeding & Sodding Lawns
Once the site is prepared and the proper grasses have been chosen, it's time to plant the lawn. Deciding whether to seed or sod involves a number of factors, as outlined below. Assuming planting is done properly, the end result of a healthy lawn should be the same whether establishing via seeding or sodding. Comparing Seeding and Sodding Home Lawns
Advantages of Seeding
* Large choice of species and cultivars to use
* Less expensive
* Lawn develops on site
Disdvantages of Seeding
* Longer period to wait for useable lawn
* Greater chance of weed invasions & erosion
* Relatively short favorable time for establishment
* May need to reseed
Advantages of Sodding
* 'Instant' lawn
* Fewer weed invasions
* Longer favorable time for establishment
* Less erosion problems
Disdvantages of Sodding
* Expensive
* Less choice in species and varieties
* Potential soil incompatibility problems
* Rooting speed varies
Timing is critical to assure success when seeding lawns. Mid August to early September is the ideal time for seeding lawns and April would be a second choice. Seeding in late spring through mid-summer often leads to problems. Suggested seeding rates are found below. Exceeding rates may result in weak, spindly seedlings and potential disease development. Newly seeded grasses must receive adequate moisture to assure germination and early seedling survival. Putting down a light straw mulch can help prevent rapid drying and helps keep the soil in place until the grass is established. Use about one bale per 1,000 square feet.
When sodding, purchase quality sod that has been freshly cut. Try to use sod that has been grown on a similar type of soil as exists on the site; most of northern Illinois has mineral soils so try to get sod grown on mineral soil. Install promptly. Stagger edges in a similar pattern as laying bricks. Avoid stretching sod or gaps between pieces of sod.
New sod should be watered thoroughly after installation, and then frequently until the sod is established. Water should go down through the sod to moisten the soil underneath for good root development. Mow newly sodded lawns on a regular basis so that no more than one third of the grass height is removed in a single mowing. A height between two and three inches is suggested. Core aerify a sodded lawn after the sod has firmly rooted to the soil. Don't fertilize newly sodded lawns until the next suggested time in the normal fertilizing schedule; details on these and other lawn care practices are discussed in other lessons of the Lawn Challenge.
Suggested Seeding Rates for Lawn Grasses
Species in Seed Mix Rate (pounds/1,000 sq.ft.)
Kentucky bluegrass 1 to 3"
Kentucky bluegrass/perennial ryegrass 3 to 4"
Kentucky bluegrass/fine fescue 3 to 5"
Tall fescue 6 to 9"
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Site Preparation
Whether seeding or sodding, home lawn quality is closely tied into how well the soil and site were prepared prior to lawn establishment. Taking shortcuts often comes back to haunt the homeowner in the form of chronic lawn problems, such as thatch, weeds, and disease.
Eliminating weed problems existing on the site is an important first step. Perennial weeds, such as quackgrass, need to be controlled prior to seeding or sodding the lawn. One option is to dig them out by hand, making sure roots and stems are completely removed. Another option is to use a translocated (moves within plant) nonselective herbicide, such as glyphosate (sold as Roundup and other trade names). Glufosinate ammonium (Finale) does not translocate, so may only provide limited control of perennial weeds. Both herbicides don't leave active soil residues that would harm seedlings. Read, understand, and follow all label directions.
Another important step in preparing for lawn establishment is to thoroughly work the soil (by rotary tiller) before seeding or sodding. Amend poor soils, such as heavy clay, by adding organic matter. Sources include compost, rotted manure, peat, and quality topsoil. Incorporate these materials into the existing soil, rather than layering them on the surface. Sand is not suggested as a material to improve clay soils for home lawns. Six inches or more of well prepared soil is suggested.
Soil testing is also suggested prior to establishment. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Office on how to get a soil test. Key information revealed by soil testing includes soil pH and amount of available nutrients such as phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). If major modifications are needed, it is easier to make these prior to establishing the lawn and lawns will get off to a better start when soils are modified prior to establishment. Lawn grasses prefer soil pH values between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acidic).
Lower soil pH (make more acidic) by adding elemental sulfur. Raise soil pH (make more alkaline) by adding limestone. Only add these materials when soil tests indicate a need and base the rate on soil test results. Starter fertilizers may also be mixed into the soil surface prior to lawn establishment. Starter fertilizers typically have balanced ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N, P, K), such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12. Soil test results may reveal nutrient shortages which would influence how much starter fertilizer is needed.
When preparing the soil, it's important to establish a favorable final grade. Rough grading should include removal of any rocks or other debris. Avoid burying any construction debris, as this could cause problems for the grass later. Eliminate any depressions or raised areas. Final slopes should be one to two percent away from buildings (one to two feet drop per 100 feet of run) to assure good surface drainage.
Seeding & Sodding Lawns
Once the site is prepared and the proper grasses have been chosen, it's time to plant the lawn. Deciding whether to seed or sod involves a number of factors, as outlined below. Assuming planting is done properly, the end result of a healthy lawn should be the same whether establishing via seeding or sodding. Comparing Seeding and Sodding Home Lawns
Advantages of Seeding
* Large choice of species and cultivars to use
* Less expensive
* Lawn develops on site
Disdvantages of Seeding
* Longer period to wait for useable lawn
* Greater chance of weed invasions & erosion
* Relatively short favorable time for establishment
* May need to reseed
Advantages of Sodding
* 'Instant' lawn
* Fewer weed invasions
* Longer favorable time for establishment
* Less erosion problems
Disdvantages of Sodding
* Expensive
* Less choice in species and varieties
* Potential soil incompatibility problems
* Rooting speed varies
Timing is critical to assure success when seeding lawns. Mid August to early September is the ideal time for seeding lawns and April would be a second choice. Seeding in late spring through mid-summer often leads to problems. Suggested seeding rates are found below. Exceeding rates may result in weak, spindly seedlings and potential disease development. Newly seeded grasses must receive adequate moisture to assure germination and early seedling survival. Putting down a light straw mulch can help prevent rapid drying and helps keep the soil in place until the grass is established. Use about one bale per 1,000 square feet.
When sodding, purchase quality sod that has been freshly cut. Try to use sod that has been grown on a similar type of soil as exists on the site; most of northern Illinois has mineral soils so try to get sod grown on mineral soil. Install promptly. Stagger edges in a similar pattern as laying bricks. Avoid stretching sod or gaps between pieces of sod.
New sod should be watered thoroughly after installation, and then frequently until the sod is established. Water should go down through the sod to moisten the soil underneath for good root development. Mow newly sodded lawns on a regular basis so that no more than one third of the grass height is removed in a single mowing. A height between two and three inches is suggested. Core aerify a sodded lawn after the sod has firmly rooted to the soil. Don't fertilize newly sodded lawns until the next suggested time in the normal fertilizing schedule; details on these and other lawn care practices are discussed in other lessons of the Lawn Challenge.
Suggested Seeding Rates for Lawn Grasses
Species in Seed Mix Rate (pounds/1,000 sq.ft.)
Kentucky bluegrass 1 to 3"
Kentucky bluegrass/perennial ryegrass 3 to 4"
Kentucky bluegrass/fine fescue 3 to 5"
Tall fescue 6 to 9"
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Wednesday, November 22, 2006
Dealing with Shady Sites on Your Lawn!
Lawn Grass Options
Having a quality lawn in the shade can be a challenge. Lawns in shade areas are typically thin, weak, and of poor quality. In addition, lawns in shade areas generally do not have the ability to tolerate or recover from stress as compared to lawns growing in full sun. Start improving shade areas for grass growth by pruning trees and large shrubs as much as feasible to allow the maximum amount of light to reach the soil surface.
Significant shade such as this makes growing a quality lawn difficult.
Red fescue or other fine fescues are the primary lawn species in shade lawn mixtures. Among the more commonly used cultivars of the fine fescues are Jamestown, Banner, Barfalla, Checker, Highlight, Koket, Shadow (all chewings fescues); Dawson, Ensylva, Fortress, Pennlawn, and Ruby (creeping red fescues); and Aurora, Biljart(C-26), Reliant, Scaldis, and Waldina (hard fescues). Perennial ryegrass and tall fescue offer intermediate shade tolerance. Perennial ryegrass cultivars for shade include Birdie II, Citation II, Fiesta II, Manhatten II, Palmer,and Regal. Tall fescues best for shade include Falcon, Finelawn, Houndog, Jaguar, Olympic, Rebel,and Rebel II.Kentucky bluegrass generally does poor in the shade, but some shade tolerant cultivars include Bensun, Bristol, Eclipse, Glade, Nugget, Touchdown,and Victa.
After establishment, care of established lawns in shade areas is different than lawns located in full sun. Mow higher (near 3 inches), and fertilize less in the shade, as too much nitrogen can be detrimental to shade lawn species. About one to two pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per growing season is all that is needed. When watering shade lawns, do so as infrequently as possible, and water deeply. Reduce traffic over lawns in the shade.
If these practices have been followed but the lawn still fails, there probably is not enough light, even for a shade tolerant grass species. Shade tolerant grasses still need an acceptable amount of light to grow. Lawns in the shade often have problems with moss (discussion follows) or shade-loving broadleaf weeds (see Lesson 6-Weed Problems in Lawns). Ground ivy, or creeping charlie, is a prime example. These problems exist primarily because the lawn grasses are thin and weak, allowing easy invasion. Follow the steps outlined above to help avoid these problems. Another option is to try a shade tolerant groundcover, as discussed below.
Groundcover Options
There are a variety of groundcovers available for shade areas. Shade groundcovers may offer an alternative to turfgrasses in shade areas, but are not foolproof. Poor soil drainage can cause problems for several species. Some maintenance is also needed to keep the planting looking good. The following list outlines some of the better groundcover choices for shade areas. Common names are provided, followed by Latin names.
.Goutweed
Aegopodium podagraria 'Variegatum'
Persistent, weedy groundcover that spreads via underground rhizomes. Tolerates many soil conditions, deep shade to full-sun, although foliage may scorch in full-sun. Best to plant in contained areas to avoid becoming evasive; cultivar 'Variegatum' more desirable. Buglewood
.Buglewood
Ajuga reptans
Low-growing, attractive foliage, spreads via above ground stolons. Prefers moist, well-drained soils in heavy shade to full-sun; protect from winter winds. Cultivars vary in both flower and foliage color.
.Canada Wild Ginger
Asarum canadense
Forms foliage mass up to six inches tall, spreads rapidly via rhizomes. Excellent deciduous groundcover for partial to deep shade.
.Lily-of-the-Valley
Convallaria majalis
Forms thick carpet of upright leaves, spreads rapidly via rhizomes, very adaptable but does best in well-drained soils, partial to full shade. May crowd out delicate plants. Large quantities of roots and rhizomes are poisonous. Fragrant flowers are popular.
.Purpleleaf Wintercreeper Euonymus
Euonymus fortunei 'Colorata'
Trailing habit and roots readily into soil as it creeps along. Heavy shade to full-sun, prefers well-drained soils. Protect from winter winds. Scale can be a problem.
.Sweet Woodruff
Galium odoratum
Delicate deciduous groundcover that forms uniform mat of bright green, persistent foliage. Small, white flowers. Prefers moist, well-drained soils in medium to deep shade.
.Hosta, Plantain Lily
Hosta species
Large group of hardy, dependable plants with bold, decorative foliage forming neat, circular clumps. Plants spread slowly via short rhizomes. Adaptable, best in open shade. Some have showy, lily-like flowers. Leaf burn problems in sun. Slugs also are a common problem.
.Japanese Spurge
Pachysandra terminalis
Neat, uniform, evergreen groundcover that spreads via rhizomes to form dense mat. Best in shade, well-drained soils. Protect from winter winds; may have pest or disease problems if stressed.
.Common Periwinkle
Vinca minor
Trailing, vinelike evergreen groundcover that roots as it creeps along. Grows in fairly heavy shade to full-sun; although foliage tends to be deeper green and glossier in the shade. Protect from winter wind and sun. Disease problems occur with poor soil drainage and poor air movement.
.Barren Strawberry
Waldsteinia ternata
Forms mats of strawberry-like evergreen foliage with glossy, bright green leaves and yellow flowers. Easy to care for, plant in partial shade to full-sun.
.Woodland Natives
(various species)
A wide variety of woodland plants, such as ferns, Jack-in-the-Pulpit, and trilliums may also be used in areas where turf will not grow or is not desired. Consult with native plant specialists & nurseries.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Having a quality lawn in the shade can be a challenge. Lawns in shade areas are typically thin, weak, and of poor quality. In addition, lawns in shade areas generally do not have the ability to tolerate or recover from stress as compared to lawns growing in full sun. Start improving shade areas for grass growth by pruning trees and large shrubs as much as feasible to allow the maximum amount of light to reach the soil surface.
Significant shade such as this makes growing a quality lawn difficult.
Red fescue or other fine fescues are the primary lawn species in shade lawn mixtures. Among the more commonly used cultivars of the fine fescues are Jamestown, Banner, Barfalla, Checker, Highlight, Koket, Shadow (all chewings fescues); Dawson, Ensylva, Fortress, Pennlawn, and Ruby (creeping red fescues); and Aurora, Biljart(C-26), Reliant, Scaldis, and Waldina (hard fescues). Perennial ryegrass and tall fescue offer intermediate shade tolerance. Perennial ryegrass cultivars for shade include Birdie II, Citation II, Fiesta II, Manhatten II, Palmer,and Regal. Tall fescues best for shade include Falcon, Finelawn, Houndog, Jaguar, Olympic, Rebel,and Rebel II.Kentucky bluegrass generally does poor in the shade, but some shade tolerant cultivars include Bensun, Bristol, Eclipse, Glade, Nugget, Touchdown,and Victa.
After establishment, care of established lawns in shade areas is different than lawns located in full sun. Mow higher (near 3 inches), and fertilize less in the shade, as too much nitrogen can be detrimental to shade lawn species. About one to two pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per growing season is all that is needed. When watering shade lawns, do so as infrequently as possible, and water deeply. Reduce traffic over lawns in the shade.
If these practices have been followed but the lawn still fails, there probably is not enough light, even for a shade tolerant grass species. Shade tolerant grasses still need an acceptable amount of light to grow. Lawns in the shade often have problems with moss (discussion follows) or shade-loving broadleaf weeds (see Lesson 6-Weed Problems in Lawns). Ground ivy, or creeping charlie, is a prime example. These problems exist primarily because the lawn grasses are thin and weak, allowing easy invasion. Follow the steps outlined above to help avoid these problems. Another option is to try a shade tolerant groundcover, as discussed below.
Groundcover Options
There are a variety of groundcovers available for shade areas. Shade groundcovers may offer an alternative to turfgrasses in shade areas, but are not foolproof. Poor soil drainage can cause problems for several species. Some maintenance is also needed to keep the planting looking good. The following list outlines some of the better groundcover choices for shade areas. Common names are provided, followed by Latin names.
.Goutweed
Aegopodium podagraria 'Variegatum'
Persistent, weedy groundcover that spreads via underground rhizomes. Tolerates many soil conditions, deep shade to full-sun, although foliage may scorch in full-sun. Best to plant in contained areas to avoid becoming evasive; cultivar 'Variegatum' more desirable. Buglewood
.Buglewood
Ajuga reptans
Low-growing, attractive foliage, spreads via above ground stolons. Prefers moist, well-drained soils in heavy shade to full-sun; protect from winter winds. Cultivars vary in both flower and foliage color.
.Canada Wild Ginger
Asarum canadense
Forms foliage mass up to six inches tall, spreads rapidly via rhizomes. Excellent deciduous groundcover for partial to deep shade.
.Lily-of-the-Valley
Convallaria majalis
Forms thick carpet of upright leaves, spreads rapidly via rhizomes, very adaptable but does best in well-drained soils, partial to full shade. May crowd out delicate plants. Large quantities of roots and rhizomes are poisonous. Fragrant flowers are popular.
.Purpleleaf Wintercreeper Euonymus
Euonymus fortunei 'Colorata'
Trailing habit and roots readily into soil as it creeps along. Heavy shade to full-sun, prefers well-drained soils. Protect from winter winds. Scale can be a problem.
.Sweet Woodruff
Galium odoratum
Delicate deciduous groundcover that forms uniform mat of bright green, persistent foliage. Small, white flowers. Prefers moist, well-drained soils in medium to deep shade.
.Hosta, Plantain Lily
Hosta species
Large group of hardy, dependable plants with bold, decorative foliage forming neat, circular clumps. Plants spread slowly via short rhizomes. Adaptable, best in open shade. Some have showy, lily-like flowers. Leaf burn problems in sun. Slugs also are a common problem.
.Japanese Spurge
Pachysandra terminalis
Neat, uniform, evergreen groundcover that spreads via rhizomes to form dense mat. Best in shade, well-drained soils. Protect from winter winds; may have pest or disease problems if stressed.
.Common Periwinkle
Vinca minor
Trailing, vinelike evergreen groundcover that roots as it creeps along. Grows in fairly heavy shade to full-sun; although foliage tends to be deeper green and glossier in the shade. Protect from winter wind and sun. Disease problems occur with poor soil drainage and poor air movement.
.Barren Strawberry
Waldsteinia ternata
Forms mats of strawberry-like evergreen foliage with glossy, bright green leaves and yellow flowers. Easy to care for, plant in partial shade to full-sun.
.Woodland Natives
(various species)
A wide variety of woodland plants, such as ferns, Jack-in-the-Pulpit, and trilliums may also be used in areas where turf will not grow or is not desired. Consult with native plant specialists & nurseries.
Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of "Your Perfect Lawn," a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Terry_Blackburn
Lawn Challenge Course Final Lesson 9
Here is the 9th and Final Lesson "Managing Lawn Diseases" in our Lawn Challenge Series from the University of Illinois. terry
Managing Home Lawn Diseases
Patch Diseases Serious Problem
Perhaps the most serious lawn disease likely to occur in northern Illinois is summer patch and necrotic ring spot, two separate diseases that attack grass roots and previously were referred to as fusarium blight. Research continues to look for information on these diseases. Brown patch may also attack lawns. These "patch diseases" are similar in appearance and management in lawns.
Summer patch and brown patch tends to be most active in hot weather, while necrotic ring spot tends to be most active in late spring and in fall. Disease symptoms often show under lawn stress in summer, however. Crescent shaped or circular patches of dead grass, often with clumps of green grass inside, are a characteristic symptom (often called "frogeye"). Lawns with advanced disease development may show irregular dead areas and streaks.
Brown patch may infect well-watered and fertilized lawns in hot, humid weather.
Patch diseases typically develop on lawns with stress factors such as excessive thatch, poor soil conditions, sod installed over a poorly prepared site, irregular/excessive nitrogen fertility, and related problems. One typical situation in which these diseases occur is recently sodded lawns (within 2 - 5 years) put down over a clay soil, usually with good care (high watering & fertility) to keep the grass green and vigorous. This condition leads to poor root penetration and development, and also often a problem thatch layer.
Management of these diseases consists of correcting soil problems and implementing proper cultural practices, overseeding dead areas, and possibly fungicide applications. Improving conditions for root growth and reducing problem thatch is critical. Practices such as core aerifying and topdressing, along with sound fertilizing, mowing (avoid mowing too short), and watering are suggested. Light, frequent irrigation may help reduce stress of summer patch.
Stress on this sodded front yard over heavy clay has allowed patch disease to invade.
Core cultivation (aerifying) will help improve soil conditions and reduce thatch. Spring and fall are suggested times for aerifying, assuming lawns are actively growing. Avoid heavy spring applications of nitrogen fertilizer. Focus most applications on the fall period. Fertilizers containing controlled-release nitrogen are suggested. Overseed dead areas with perennial ryegrass and resistant Kentucky bluegrass cultivars in late August or early September.
These management suggestions may not bring immediate results, but will get the patch disease under control in the long run. Fungicides are an option to help prevent further development on unaffected grass, but will not reverse the factors causing the disease or eliminate the disease. Fungicides treat the symptoms but not the cause of the problem.
Rust Turns Lawns Orange
Orange powder on lawns, usually during slow growth, is characteristic of rust disease.
Rust can be very common in the late summer to early fall period, especially when the weather is dry. Rust develops on lawns growing very slowly, and appears as an orangish powder (spores) on grass blades. Rust spores can easily be tracked into homes. Watering and fertilizing at the next suggested time period (such as early fall - see Watering, Mowing and Fertilizing Lawns) should increase the lawn vigor and cause the rust to decline.
Powdery Mildew Turns Lawns White
Finally, powdery mildew is a common disease of lawns in shade areas. Powdery mildew is easy to identify; as grass appears whitish in color. Powdery mildew develops primarily on Kentucky bluegrass in the shade. Choose shade-tolerant grasses and follow shade lawn management practices
Managing Home Lawn Diseases
Patch Diseases Serious Problem
Perhaps the most serious lawn disease likely to occur in northern Illinois is summer patch and necrotic ring spot, two separate diseases that attack grass roots and previously were referred to as fusarium blight. Research continues to look for information on these diseases. Brown patch may also attack lawns. These "patch diseases" are similar in appearance and management in lawns.
Summer patch and brown patch tends to be most active in hot weather, while necrotic ring spot tends to be most active in late spring and in fall. Disease symptoms often show under lawn stress in summer, however. Crescent shaped or circular patches of dead grass, often with clumps of green grass inside, are a characteristic symptom (often called "frogeye"). Lawns with advanced disease development may show irregular dead areas and streaks.
Brown patch may infect well-watered and fertilized lawns in hot, humid weather.
Patch diseases typically develop on lawns with stress factors such as excessive thatch, poor soil conditions, sod installed over a poorly prepared site, irregular/excessive nitrogen fertility, and related problems. One typical situation in which these diseases occur is recently sodded lawns (within 2 - 5 years) put down over a clay soil, usually with good care (high watering & fertility) to keep the grass green and vigorous. This condition leads to poor root penetration and development, and also often a problem thatch layer.
Management of these diseases consists of correcting soil problems and implementing proper cultural practices, overseeding dead areas, and possibly fungicide applications. Improving conditions for root growth and reducing problem thatch is critical. Practices such as core aerifying and topdressing, along with sound fertilizing, mowing (avoid mowing too short), and watering are suggested. Light, frequent irrigation may help reduce stress of summer patch.
Stress on this sodded front yard over heavy clay has allowed patch disease to invade.
Core cultivation (aerifying) will help improve soil conditions and reduce thatch. Spring and fall are suggested times for aerifying, assuming lawns are actively growing. Avoid heavy spring applications of nitrogen fertilizer. Focus most applications on the fall period. Fertilizers containing controlled-release nitrogen are suggested. Overseed dead areas with perennial ryegrass and resistant Kentucky bluegrass cultivars in late August or early September.
These management suggestions may not bring immediate results, but will get the patch disease under control in the long run. Fungicides are an option to help prevent further development on unaffected grass, but will not reverse the factors causing the disease or eliminate the disease. Fungicides treat the symptoms but not the cause of the problem.
Rust Turns Lawns Orange
Orange powder on lawns, usually during slow growth, is characteristic of rust disease.
Rust can be very common in the late summer to early fall period, especially when the weather is dry. Rust develops on lawns growing very slowly, and appears as an orangish powder (spores) on grass blades. Rust spores can easily be tracked into homes. Watering and fertilizing at the next suggested time period (such as early fall - see Watering, Mowing and Fertilizing Lawns) should increase the lawn vigor and cause the rust to decline.
Powdery Mildew Turns Lawns White
Finally, powdery mildew is a common disease of lawns in shade areas. Powdery mildew is easy to identify; as grass appears whitish in color. Powdery mildew develops primarily on Kentucky bluegrass in the shade. Choose shade-tolerant grasses and follow shade lawn management practices
Tuesday, November 21, 2006
Lawn Challenge Course - Lesson 8
Here is Lesson 8 "Grubs and other Insect Pests" in our Lawn Challenge Series from the University of Illinois. terry
Grubs & Other Insect Pests
Sod Webworm Problems in Lawns
Sod webworms feed by clipping leaf blades off close to the soil surface. Heavy feeding will cause irregular brown areas of grass stubble. The sod webworm larva, which is actually a caterpillar, can be difficult to find as it readily hides in thatch and debris. The adult, which does not feed, is a small whitish moth that will only fly a short distance when disturbed. At rest, the moths fold their wings back over their body and appear tubelike. Adult moths lay eggs by dropping them over the lawn.
If lots of sod webworm moths are observed in the evening, watch for damage in about 10 to 14 days. Early August is typically when we see the heaviest damage, although sometimes damage is also heavy in June. Insecticides should be applied to the surface of damaged areas. Suggested insecticides for homeowners to use on lawns being damaged include carbaryl (Sevin);and Steinernema carpocapsae (Biosafe)nematodes.
Ants in Lawns
Ants occasionally appear in large enough numbers in the lawn that control is needed. The ants may not be actually damaging the grass itself, but the tunneling into the soil may be creating problems. Contact your local Extension office for pesticide recommendations.
Grubs & Other Insect Pests
Sod Webworm Problems in Lawns
Sod webworms feed by clipping leaf blades off close to the soil surface. Heavy feeding will cause irregular brown areas of grass stubble. The sod webworm larva, which is actually a caterpillar, can be difficult to find as it readily hides in thatch and debris. The adult, which does not feed, is a small whitish moth that will only fly a short distance when disturbed. At rest, the moths fold their wings back over their body and appear tubelike. Adult moths lay eggs by dropping them over the lawn.
If lots of sod webworm moths are observed in the evening, watch for damage in about 10 to 14 days. Early August is typically when we see the heaviest damage, although sometimes damage is also heavy in June. Insecticides should be applied to the surface of damaged areas. Suggested insecticides for homeowners to use on lawns being damaged include carbaryl (Sevin);and Steinernema carpocapsae (Biosafe)nematodes.
Ants in Lawns
Ants occasionally appear in large enough numbers in the lawn that control is needed. The ants may not be actually damaging the grass itself, but the tunneling into the soil may be creating problems. Contact your local Extension office for pesticide recommendations.
Monday, November 20, 2006
Lawn Challenge Course - Lesson 7
Here is Lesson 7 - "White Grub Problems in Lawns" in our Lawn Challenge Series from the University of Illinois. terry
White Grub Problems in Lawns
Whitish, "C"-shaped grubs can be a serious lawn pest.
White grubs are the most serious and destructive lawn insect pest in Illinois. While not all lawns will get grubs and the extent of grub damage varies from year to year, there are some important points to consider concerning managing grubs in lawns. Grubs are white in color, with a characteristic "C" shape body when found in the soil feeding on lawn roots. Grubs are the larval stage of beetles.
The most common grub species in our area is the annual white grub, of which the adult is a tan chafer beetle. Eggs are laid in the soil in mid-summer, primarily on well-watered lawns in full sun, often near pavement. Damage from annual white grubs typically starts in mid August and may continue until early October. Other species may damage lawns in northern Illinois, but usually are not as common as annual white grub. Monitoring and control of these species is the same as for annual white grub. The true white grub (May or June beetle), for example, typically has a three-year life cycle, meaning it could potentially damage lawns throughout the season. Japanese beetle grubs can also occur in northern Illinois, with timing very similar to annual white grub. Adult Japanese beetles are serious defoliators of many ornamental plants.
Adult beetles, such as this Japanese beetle, lay eggs that hatch into white grubs.
Since grubs feed on the roots of lawn grasses, damage will appear as browning of the lawn. Consider that this also could be due to problems such as drought, poor soil, or diseases. However, grubs are easy to find by lifting sod in damaged areas and checking the root zone for the whitish grubs. Don't treat for grubs that don't exist! Skunks and raccoons may tear up lawns in search of grubs, even when grub numbers are relatively low. Typically a population of about 8 to 12 grubs per square foot causes lawn damage that requires control; whereas lower populations may not damage the grass, they may attract skunks and raccoons.
Check the root zone of the edges of browning areas for the presence of white grubs.
Lawns showing damage from grubs may be treated with an insecticide. Insecticides available for homeowners include diazinon (25% EC [liquid] or 5% granular); trichlorfon (Dylox) (6.2% granular); bendiocarb (Intercept), halofenozide (GrubBGon, GrubEx), or imidacloprid (Merit, formerly GrubEx) for control of white grubs. Heterorhabditis bacteriophora nematode is an example of an alternative product for white grub control that is available. For all products, read and follow all label directions, then apply to damaged areas. Water the insecticide into the soil immediately. If treating a large area, stop after a portion has been treated and water the material in, then complete the rest of the lawn area needing treatment. Only treat in and around affected areas; grubs may only be in a small part of the lawn. Imidacloprid and halofenozide are suggested to be applied before grub damage appears. An example of a way to use these products would be to apply in July to irrigated lawns that are surrounded by dry lawns, especially when adult beetle flight is high in areas with a history of grub damage.
Spring treatment for annual white grub is not suggested since the grubs feed for a short period of time in spring and are reaching maturity, thus are not controlled easily. In addition, turfgrasses are actively growing at that time so usually don’t show damage.
Other insects may attack lawns in northern Illinois but severity of damage changes from season to season and also by location. Examples include sod webworm, billbug, chinch bug, and aphids. These insects differ from grubs in that they are feeding at or above the surface of the soil and usually are not as destructive.
White Grub Problems in Lawns
Whitish, "C"-shaped grubs can be a serious lawn pest.
White grubs are the most serious and destructive lawn insect pest in Illinois. While not all lawns will get grubs and the extent of grub damage varies from year to year, there are some important points to consider concerning managing grubs in lawns. Grubs are white in color, with a characteristic "C" shape body when found in the soil feeding on lawn roots. Grubs are the larval stage of beetles.
The most common grub species in our area is the annual white grub, of which the adult is a tan chafer beetle. Eggs are laid in the soil in mid-summer, primarily on well-watered lawns in full sun, often near pavement. Damage from annual white grubs typically starts in mid August and may continue until early October. Other species may damage lawns in northern Illinois, but usually are not as common as annual white grub. Monitoring and control of these species is the same as for annual white grub. The true white grub (May or June beetle), for example, typically has a three-year life cycle, meaning it could potentially damage lawns throughout the season. Japanese beetle grubs can also occur in northern Illinois, with timing very similar to annual white grub. Adult Japanese beetles are serious defoliators of many ornamental plants.
Adult beetles, such as this Japanese beetle, lay eggs that hatch into white grubs.
Since grubs feed on the roots of lawn grasses, damage will appear as browning of the lawn. Consider that this also could be due to problems such as drought, poor soil, or diseases. However, grubs are easy to find by lifting sod in damaged areas and checking the root zone for the whitish grubs. Don't treat for grubs that don't exist! Skunks and raccoons may tear up lawns in search of grubs, even when grub numbers are relatively low. Typically a population of about 8 to 12 grubs per square foot causes lawn damage that requires control; whereas lower populations may not damage the grass, they may attract skunks and raccoons.
Check the root zone of the edges of browning areas for the presence of white grubs.
Lawns showing damage from grubs may be treated with an insecticide. Insecticides available for homeowners include diazinon (25% EC [liquid] or 5% granular); trichlorfon (Dylox) (6.2% granular); bendiocarb (Intercept), halofenozide (GrubBGon, GrubEx), or imidacloprid (Merit, formerly GrubEx) for control of white grubs. Heterorhabditis bacteriophora nematode is an example of an alternative product for white grub control that is available. For all products, read and follow all label directions, then apply to damaged areas. Water the insecticide into the soil immediately. If treating a large area, stop after a portion has been treated and water the material in, then complete the rest of the lawn area needing treatment. Only treat in and around affected areas; grubs may only be in a small part of the lawn. Imidacloprid and halofenozide are suggested to be applied before grub damage appears. An example of a way to use these products would be to apply in July to irrigated lawns that are surrounded by dry lawns, especially when adult beetle flight is high in areas with a history of grub damage.
Spring treatment for annual white grub is not suggested since the grubs feed for a short period of time in spring and are reaching maturity, thus are not controlled easily. In addition, turfgrasses are actively growing at that time so usually don’t show damage.
Other insects may attack lawns in northern Illinois but severity of damage changes from season to season and also by location. Examples include sod webworm, billbug, chinch bug, and aphids. These insects differ from grubs in that they are feeding at or above the surface of the soil and usually are not as destructive.
Saturday, November 18, 2006
Autumn Lawn Care Tips!
Spotted a good Article from the Minnesota Department of Agriculture... Check it out! terry
"Mowing Your Lawn
It’s important to keep your grass 2 to 2-1/2 inches tall throughout the fall. If your grass gets much longer (more than 3 inches) it will mat, leading to winter lawn disease problems such as snow mold. If you cut it shorter than 2 inches, you’ll severely limit its ability to make and store food for growth in the spring.
Raking Leaves
Lawn raking in the fall removes excess organic debris, and can help maintain water quality. In winter, freezing and thawing can cause leaves, dead grass plants, and other organic debris to release soluble forms of phosphate (and nitrates). If these chemicals run off frozen ground during spring snow melt and early spring rains, they can end up in surface water.
Keep grass clippings, leaf litter, and other organic debris off driveways, sidewalks and streets.
Recycling Leaves
You have several options when it comes to disposing of fallen leaves. The preferred way is to compost them, because composting keeps leaves out of streets and storm sewers. You can also use fallen leaves, whole or chipped by a power mower, as winter mulch around rose bushes and landscape plants. Leave fallen leaves on your lawn and make several passes over them with a power mower, chopping them into a thin layer fine enough to stay on the lawn without causing damage while providing nutrients for the grass. You can also bag leaves for disposal by municipal authorities.
Watering Your Lawn
Even though temperatures might be cooler than in summer, your lawn still needs water. Since lawn grasses continue to grow throughout the fall, watering is still important to sustain growth. Go ahead and water as needed until the ground is cold and beginning to freeze. If you have an automatic irrigation system, avoid damage by having it blown out with compressed air before water freezes in the pipes and sprinkler heads.
Fertilizing Your Lawn
Apply a final dose of fertilizer in mid- to late October. You’ll provide your grass with nutrients that will be absorbed and stored until needed for spring growth. Lawns that have received late-season fertilizing are often the first to begin growing in the spring.
“Winterizing” types of fertilizers containing high amounts of phosphorus are only necessary if a reliable soil test indicates a shortage of phosphorus. Otherwise, use a standard lawn fertilizer.
Broadleaf Weed Control
Fall is a good time to control perennial broadleaf weeds such as dandelions, plantain, clover, and creeping charlie. Limited numbers of weeds can be removed by hand. If your weeds are few and scattered—or confined to a few small areas—spot-treating them with herbicide is usually sufficient. Weed-control products sold in ready-to-use spray containers make spot treatment easy. Be sure to complete treatments when temperatures are above 50 degrees—your herbicide needs time to do its job before winter cold sets in.
Don’t choose your weed-control strategy without a careful evaluation of the number and types of weeds in your lawn. Remember—you don’t need to apply herbicides over your entire lawn unless there’s extensive weed infestation. And don’t worry about controlling crabgrass—that’s done more effectively in spring. The first hard frost will kill annual weedy grasses.
Seeding and Sodding Your Lawn
Fall is the best time of year to establish or repair lawns by seeding or sodding. Seeding should be completed by mid-September. Cool temperatures usually make fall seeding or sodding successful. Be sure to complete your sodding before very cold weather sets in."
"Mowing Your Lawn
It’s important to keep your grass 2 to 2-1/2 inches tall throughout the fall. If your grass gets much longer (more than 3 inches) it will mat, leading to winter lawn disease problems such as snow mold. If you cut it shorter than 2 inches, you’ll severely limit its ability to make and store food for growth in the spring.
Raking Leaves
Lawn raking in the fall removes excess organic debris, and can help maintain water quality. In winter, freezing and thawing can cause leaves, dead grass plants, and other organic debris to release soluble forms of phosphate (and nitrates). If these chemicals run off frozen ground during spring snow melt and early spring rains, they can end up in surface water.
Keep grass clippings, leaf litter, and other organic debris off driveways, sidewalks and streets.
Recycling Leaves
You have several options when it comes to disposing of fallen leaves. The preferred way is to compost them, because composting keeps leaves out of streets and storm sewers. You can also use fallen leaves, whole or chipped by a power mower, as winter mulch around rose bushes and landscape plants. Leave fallen leaves on your lawn and make several passes over them with a power mower, chopping them into a thin layer fine enough to stay on the lawn without causing damage while providing nutrients for the grass. You can also bag leaves for disposal by municipal authorities.
Watering Your Lawn
Even though temperatures might be cooler than in summer, your lawn still needs water. Since lawn grasses continue to grow throughout the fall, watering is still important to sustain growth. Go ahead and water as needed until the ground is cold and beginning to freeze. If you have an automatic irrigation system, avoid damage by having it blown out with compressed air before water freezes in the pipes and sprinkler heads.
Fertilizing Your Lawn
Apply a final dose of fertilizer in mid- to late October. You’ll provide your grass with nutrients that will be absorbed and stored until needed for spring growth. Lawns that have received late-season fertilizing are often the first to begin growing in the spring.
“Winterizing” types of fertilizers containing high amounts of phosphorus are only necessary if a reliable soil test indicates a shortage of phosphorus. Otherwise, use a standard lawn fertilizer.
Broadleaf Weed Control
Fall is a good time to control perennial broadleaf weeds such as dandelions, plantain, clover, and creeping charlie. Limited numbers of weeds can be removed by hand. If your weeds are few and scattered—or confined to a few small areas—spot-treating them with herbicide is usually sufficient. Weed-control products sold in ready-to-use spray containers make spot treatment easy. Be sure to complete treatments when temperatures are above 50 degrees—your herbicide needs time to do its job before winter cold sets in.
Don’t choose your weed-control strategy without a careful evaluation of the number and types of weeds in your lawn. Remember—you don’t need to apply herbicides over your entire lawn unless there’s extensive weed infestation. And don’t worry about controlling crabgrass—that’s done more effectively in spring. The first hard frost will kill annual weedy grasses.
Seeding and Sodding Your Lawn
Fall is the best time of year to establish or repair lawns by seeding or sodding. Seeding should be completed by mid-September. Cool temperatures usually make fall seeding or sodding successful. Be sure to complete your sodding before very cold weather sets in."
Friday, November 17, 2006
Pesticide Use
Came across this interesting Article by Bob Vila of www.bobvila.com giving the lowdown on Pesticides. Nice one Bob. Recommended reading. terry
A Pesticide Primer
When pesticides are needed, one should always start with the safest thing and use it only on the target insect.
There are many ways to control insects. When pesticides are needed, one should always start with the safest thing and use it only on the target insect. Don't blanket the world, your yard and yourself with chemicals that you don't need. The current theory is to only zap those insects that are really causing problems, but leave the others alone.
Pesticide Options:
Some of the different pesticides you can try are listed here starting with the safest ones.
Most of the safer control methods have to be reapplied weekly or when the insects reappear. Always follow the directions carefully. Keep them in their original containers and out of the reach of children.
Soap Spray - Use horticultural soap ( fatty acid salts) or make a solution of one teaspoon of dishwashing soap in a gallon of water. (Ivory or Dawn are the mildest ones.) Useful for sucking insects. Smothers them but you have to hit them directly. Watch out it doesn't injure tender new growth. Safe for fruits and vegetables.
Baking Soda - (Also called BICARBONATE OF SODA)
Add l tablespoon of Baking Soda to a gallon of water for control of some fungus diseases. Use the baking soda on 2 days successively, first day doesn't penetrate the spores.
Pyrethrum - Made from an African chrysanthemum, zaps sucking insects. Don't use with soap. It's non toxic to humans but may cause allergies and nasal congestion. Synthetic pyrethroids are similar but work better.
Rotenone - Made from derris root, zaps tough chewing insects and is often combined with pyrethrum for better control. Best to hit the critters directly. Non toxic to humans (except occasional eye or skin irritation) and fortunately doesn't seem to harm honeybees. Poisonous to fish.
A Stream of Water - Used often, actually will knock off many insects. It's good for mites, aphids, some small insects.
Summer Horticultural Oil - This is an improved version of an old remedy for scale, mites, other sucking insects plus it's a fungicide. Follow the directions carefully and don't breathe it in yourself.
Sabadilla - This dust is safe for most humans (except for some irritated noses and sneezing bouts) but it's bad for honeybees. However, it does kill some hard to control adult insects. To protect bees, use on non-flowering plants and apply at dusk, after sunset.
NEEM Insecticides - Come from the neem tree of India and are much less toxic than synthetic chemicals. There are many trade names, among them BioNEEM, Azatin, Azadirachtin or Margosan-O. Acts as a repellent and an insect growth regulator. Worth a try to keep Japanese beetles from eating leaves.
Bacillus Thuringiensis - (called BT) Kills small caterpillars and grubs. Is harmless to people, animals, birds or good bugs. There are different varieties for each insect, as well as a long lasting solid BT for mosquito larvae. (Trade name MOSQUITO DUNKS. If you can't find these, write to Summit Chemical, 7657 Canton Center Dr., Baltimore, Md, 21224 for a retail outlet near you.)
Merit - (also called Grubex)
This is an insect hormone that keeps bugs from developing. Useful for grubs in the grass and many different, hard to control pests like leaf miners and small leaf eating caterpillars.
More Toxic Options
If these don't work there are more toxic pesticides for insects that survive the above. The safest of these are:
Diazinon will kill many different bugs.
Malathion though maligned, is one of the safer, shorter lasting chemicals, but is not a great deal better than pyrethrum plus rotenone.
Carbaryl ( trade name Sevin) is for tough chewing bugs. Kills bees. Use only at night when the bees are in their hives.
Conserve SC - a naturally occurring organism ( a spinosyn) that attacks many pests, among them, caterpillars, gypsy moth larvae, bagworms, cutworms, sod webworms, armyworms, leaf miners and thrips.
Cruiser - a nematode (a teeny soil worm) that kills grubs.
MACH 2 - an insect hormone that confuses the molting of insects. For lawn grub control and other larvae.
Synthetic Pyrethroids - manmade chemicals that mimic natural safe pyrethrum but are stronger. Some trade names are Scimitar, Mavrik, Astro, Talstar and Tempo. Pyrethroids can be used for lawn grubs and on vegetables too, but read the label for necessary precautions.
For More Information - A National Pesticide Hotline!
National Pesticide Telecommunications Network (NPTN) which is open to the public, is staffed by qualified pesticide specialists in toxicology and environmental chemistry. For information, they use EPA documents, USDepartment of Agriculture publications, scientific literature and a pesticide product database. They will direct people to local resources for products. Tel: l-800- 858-7378, FAX 541-737-0761, website at: www.ace.orst.edu/info/nptn/
A Pesticide Primer
When pesticides are needed, one should always start with the safest thing and use it only on the target insect.
There are many ways to control insects. When pesticides are needed, one should always start with the safest thing and use it only on the target insect. Don't blanket the world, your yard and yourself with chemicals that you don't need. The current theory is to only zap those insects that are really causing problems, but leave the others alone.
Pesticide Options:
Some of the different pesticides you can try are listed here starting with the safest ones.
Most of the safer control methods have to be reapplied weekly or when the insects reappear. Always follow the directions carefully. Keep them in their original containers and out of the reach of children.
Soap Spray - Use horticultural soap ( fatty acid salts) or make a solution of one teaspoon of dishwashing soap in a gallon of water. (Ivory or Dawn are the mildest ones.) Useful for sucking insects. Smothers them but you have to hit them directly. Watch out it doesn't injure tender new growth. Safe for fruits and vegetables.
Baking Soda - (Also called BICARBONATE OF SODA)
Add l tablespoon of Baking Soda to a gallon of water for control of some fungus diseases. Use the baking soda on 2 days successively, first day doesn't penetrate the spores.
Pyrethrum - Made from an African chrysanthemum, zaps sucking insects. Don't use with soap. It's non toxic to humans but may cause allergies and nasal congestion. Synthetic pyrethroids are similar but work better.
Rotenone - Made from derris root, zaps tough chewing insects and is often combined with pyrethrum for better control. Best to hit the critters directly. Non toxic to humans (except occasional eye or skin irritation) and fortunately doesn't seem to harm honeybees. Poisonous to fish.
A Stream of Water - Used often, actually will knock off many insects. It's good for mites, aphids, some small insects.
Summer Horticultural Oil - This is an improved version of an old remedy for scale, mites, other sucking insects plus it's a fungicide. Follow the directions carefully and don't breathe it in yourself.
Sabadilla - This dust is safe for most humans (except for some irritated noses and sneezing bouts) but it's bad for honeybees. However, it does kill some hard to control adult insects. To protect bees, use on non-flowering plants and apply at dusk, after sunset.
NEEM Insecticides - Come from the neem tree of India and are much less toxic than synthetic chemicals. There are many trade names, among them BioNEEM, Azatin, Azadirachtin or Margosan-O. Acts as a repellent and an insect growth regulator. Worth a try to keep Japanese beetles from eating leaves.
Bacillus Thuringiensis - (called BT) Kills small caterpillars and grubs. Is harmless to people, animals, birds or good bugs. There are different varieties for each insect, as well as a long lasting solid BT for mosquito larvae. (Trade name MOSQUITO DUNKS. If you can't find these, write to Summit Chemical, 7657 Canton Center Dr., Baltimore, Md, 21224 for a retail outlet near you.)
Merit - (also called Grubex)
This is an insect hormone that keeps bugs from developing. Useful for grubs in the grass and many different, hard to control pests like leaf miners and small leaf eating caterpillars.
More Toxic Options
If these don't work there are more toxic pesticides for insects that survive the above. The safest of these are:
Diazinon will kill many different bugs.
Malathion though maligned, is one of the safer, shorter lasting chemicals, but is not a great deal better than pyrethrum plus rotenone.
Carbaryl ( trade name Sevin) is for tough chewing bugs. Kills bees. Use only at night when the bees are in their hives.
Conserve SC - a naturally occurring organism ( a spinosyn) that attacks many pests, among them, caterpillars, gypsy moth larvae, bagworms, cutworms, sod webworms, armyworms, leaf miners and thrips.
Cruiser - a nematode (a teeny soil worm) that kills grubs.
MACH 2 - an insect hormone that confuses the molting of insects. For lawn grub control and other larvae.
Synthetic Pyrethroids - manmade chemicals that mimic natural safe pyrethrum but are stronger. Some trade names are Scimitar, Mavrik, Astro, Talstar and Tempo. Pyrethroids can be used for lawn grubs and on vegetables too, but read the label for necessary precautions.
For More Information - A National Pesticide Hotline!
National Pesticide Telecommunications Network (NPTN) which is open to the public, is staffed by qualified pesticide specialists in toxicology and environmental chemistry. For information, they use EPA documents, USDepartment of Agriculture publications, scientific literature and a pesticide product database. They will direct people to local resources for products. Tel: l-800- 858-7378, FAX 541-737-0761, website at: www.ace.orst.edu/info/nptn/
Lawn Challenge Course - Lesson 6
Here is Lesson 6 - "Weed Problems in Lawns" in our Lawn Challenge Series from the University of Illinois. terry
General Weed Management Concepts for Lawns
Poor soils, improper care, or neglect commonly cause weed invasions in lawns.
Identifying the weed and trying to determine why it has become a problem is the first step in dealing with lawn weeds. Some weeds are good indicators of underlying problems. For example, ground ivy (creeping Charlie) readily invades lawns in shade and with poor soil drainage, while knotweed is a plant able to survive in compacted soils. Crabgrass typically invades lawns that are mowed too short or watered too often. Clovers may be a sign of low fertility. Dandelions may adapt to a range of conditions. An assortment of weeds may indicate overall poor conditions for lawn grasses and/or poor management.
Sound lawn care practices may prevent weed invasions such as this.
After identifying the weeds present, step two for controlling weeds should be to review lawn care practices and make adjustments as needed to assure a good stand of grass. Sound lawn care practices should promote a healthy, vigorous turf able to prevent and compete with weed invasions. These practices include proper selection and establishment, fertilization, watering, mowing, thatch management, and related practices.
The third step is removal of existing weeds. Pulling by hand is one option; be sure to get as much of the root system as possible. There are a number of herbicides available for weed control, specific to the type of weed to be controlled.
General Weed Management Concepts for Lawns
Poor soils, improper care, or neglect commonly cause weed invasions in lawns.
Identifying the weed and trying to determine why it has become a problem is the first step in dealing with lawn weeds. Some weeds are good indicators of underlying problems. For example, ground ivy (creeping Charlie) readily invades lawns in shade and with poor soil drainage, while knotweed is a plant able to survive in compacted soils. Crabgrass typically invades lawns that are mowed too short or watered too often. Clovers may be a sign of low fertility. Dandelions may adapt to a range of conditions. An assortment of weeds may indicate overall poor conditions for lawn grasses and/or poor management.
Sound lawn care practices may prevent weed invasions such as this.
After identifying the weeds present, step two for controlling weeds should be to review lawn care practices and make adjustments as needed to assure a good stand of grass. Sound lawn care practices should promote a healthy, vigorous turf able to prevent and compete with weed invasions. These practices include proper selection and establishment, fertilization, watering, mowing, thatch management, and related practices.
The third step is removal of existing weeds. Pulling by hand is one option; be sure to get as much of the root system as possible. There are a number of herbicides available for weed control, specific to the type of weed to be controlled.
Wednesday, November 01, 2006
Lawn Challenge Course - Lesson 5
Here is Lesson 5 - "Thatch in Lawns! in our Lawn Challenge Series from the University of Illinois.
Thatch and How to Manage It
Thatch is a dense layer of living and dead organic matter on the soil surface.
Thatch in lawns is often misunderstood; both its cause and control. Some lawns have serious thatch problems while others do not. Thatch is a layer of living and dead organic matter that occurs between the green matter and the soil surface. Excessive thatch (over 1/2 inch thick) creates a favorable environment for pests and disease, an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots, and can interfere with some lawn care practices.
The primary component of thatch is turfgrass stems and roots. It accumulates as these plant parts buildup faster than they breakdown. Thatch problems are due to a combination of biological, cultural, and environmental factors. Cultural practices can have a big impact on thatch. For example, heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications or overwatering frequently contribute to thatch, because they cause the lawn to grow excessively fast. Avoid overfertilizing and overwatering. Despite popular belief, short clippings dropped on the lawn after mowing are not the cause of thatch buildup. Clippings are very high in water content and breakdown rapidly when returned to lawns after mowing, assuming lawns are mowed on a regular basis (not removing more than one-third of the leaf blade)
In northern Illinois, environmental factors typically are another primary case of thatch. Conditions favoring thatch include heavy, wet soils; alkaline, or high pH soils; and soil compaction. All are common in northern Illinois.
As thatch levels accumulate to greater than 1/2 inch, lawn problems may begin, and the thatch needs to be controlled. Thatch may be torn out with a dethatcher or vertical mower, but will most likely return unless the cause is corrected. Mechanical dethatching is also very destructive to the lawn because roots are in thatch instead of soil, so plants tear out easily. Overseeding is usually required afterwards. For this reason, it's best to tear out thatch in late August for optimum reseeding timing.
Core aerating helps degrade thatch and also helps solve some of the causes of thatch.
Core aerification, followed by topdressing are two methods that will generally correct the reasons thatch is accumulating. Core aerifying machines will pull up small soil cores to the surface that are left there to act like topdressing. The holes created help solve problems such as compaction or poor drainage. Topdressing is simply adding a thin layer(1/8 to 1/4 inch) of compatible soil over the thatch, which adds microorganisms to help in breakdown.
Aerifying equipment may be rented or services are available to do it for hire. Aerifing is an excellent lawn practice with many benefits, as it helps solve soil problems that in turn leads to better root systems and healthier lawns. Aerify in spring or fall, making sure adequate moisture exists in the soil. Make two trips over the lawn, the second perpendicular to the first. An average of 15 to 20 aeration holes per square foot is suggested. Cores should remain on the surface and allowed to air dry. These cores act as topdressing that helps degrade thatch. Additional topdressing material could be added after core aerifying if desired.
Lawn Repair and Renovation
When repairing or renovating lawns, specialized equipment can increase effectiveness and make the job much easier. Match equipment to the task that needs to be done for best results.
Aerating machines that actually pull out soil cores are suggested for use on lawns.
As mentioned already, core aerification is an important and highly recommended practice for many lawns. This process is useful to help reduce soil compaction and thatch, improve surface drainage, and improve conditions prior to overseeding. Core aerifiers insert hollow tines into the lawn and pull out plugs of soil. Size of cores removed will depend on the machine used, soil moisture, and type of soil. Core spacing also varies with the specific machine being used. Machines can be rented or aerifying services are available for hire.
Spikers are similar to core aerifiers in that they make holes in the soil. However, they use solid tines, and thus, do not remove cores.
Vertical mowers have rotating blades arranged vertically that can cut into turf and soil. These machines can be used to remove thatch (dethatching). Turfgrass rooting in the thatch is typically torn out, so reseeding is suggested afterwards. Vertical mowers can also roughen the soil prior to overseeding areas.
Slit-seeders are useful for lawn renovation projects. Slit-seeders combine vertical mowing with seeding. As the machine goes across the lawn, it opens the soil and deposits seed directly into the soil opening. Most slit-seeders have a roller that helps firm the soil after seeding. Seed is metered at a predetermined rate; it's suggested to apply half the desired seeding rate in one direction and the other half on a second pass perpendicular to the first.
Silt-seeding equipment is useful for lawn renovation.
Since the seed is placed in direct contact with the soil, seeding success is usually high when using slit-seeders. In addition, existing grass and debris does not need to be completely removed prior to the overseeding process. Timing should be the same as for conventional lawn seeding, which ideally would be late August into early September. Many rental agencies carry slit-seeders or many lawn and landscape services can do it for hire.
Determining the cause of the lawn decline is the first step in the lawn renovation process. Many lawn problems originate from poor soil conditions. Heavy clay, compacted soils, and poorly drained soils may be the reason a lawn is doing poorly. These situations can be corrected during renovation. On the other hand, many lawn problems tend to be due to pests, weather conditions, or poor lawn care practices. Perhaps improved mowing, fertilizing, and watering may be all that's required to achieve acceptable lawn quality.
Typical Lawn Care Mistakes and Problems They Can Create
Lawn Care Mistake Potential Problem Favored
Mowing Too Short Crabgrass, Diseases
Frequent, Light Watering Crabgrass, Disease
Overwatering Thatch, Disease
Overfertilizing Disease, Thatch
Underfertilizing Disease, Weeds
Once the problem has been identified, the renovation process may begin. Think of renovation as fitting one of three levels: overseeding with little additional work; significant work, but allowing existing grass to remain; or completely removing the existing lawn and starting over.
The decision of which level to choose depends on how bad the lawn looks and what caused the problem. For example, if the lawn is just a little thin, overseeding with a quality lawn seed in late August or early September may be the answer. Use of a slit-seeder is an ideal way to overseed lawns. Seed may also be broadcast over thin lawn areas, but there needs to be good soil to seed contact. Dethatchers or vertical mowers can also be used to tear out excess debris prior to overseeding. In addition, slit-seeding could also be done directly through grass and/or weeds killed with the nonselective herbicide glyphosate. All of these types of overseeding procedures do not require additional soil modification.
When soil problems exist under a lawn, there are ways to address them without tearing up the lawn. As mentioned earlier, core aerifying is suggested for problems such as thatch and soil compaction. Aerifying, overseeding, and slit-seeding (breaks up cores) may be an ideal level of renovation for many lawns.
Unfortunately, some lawn problems, such as soil problems of severe compaction, high clay levels, or poor drainage, may require starting over. Remove existing grass or rototill it. High populations of perennial weed species may require use of a nonselective herbicide, such as glyphosate. Thoroughly work the soil to a depth of six inches. Add amendments such as compost, rotted manure, organic topsoil, and peat. Follow proper selection and establishment procedures (refer to Seeding and Sodding Lawns - Lesson 3) to get the new lawn off to a good start.
Thatch and How to Manage It
Thatch is a dense layer of living and dead organic matter on the soil surface.
Thatch in lawns is often misunderstood; both its cause and control. Some lawns have serious thatch problems while others do not. Thatch is a layer of living and dead organic matter that occurs between the green matter and the soil surface. Excessive thatch (over 1/2 inch thick) creates a favorable environment for pests and disease, an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots, and can interfere with some lawn care practices.
The primary component of thatch is turfgrass stems and roots. It accumulates as these plant parts buildup faster than they breakdown. Thatch problems are due to a combination of biological, cultural, and environmental factors. Cultural practices can have a big impact on thatch. For example, heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications or overwatering frequently contribute to thatch, because they cause the lawn to grow excessively fast. Avoid overfertilizing and overwatering. Despite popular belief, short clippings dropped on the lawn after mowing are not the cause of thatch buildup. Clippings are very high in water content and breakdown rapidly when returned to lawns after mowing, assuming lawns are mowed on a regular basis (not removing more than one-third of the leaf blade)
In northern Illinois, environmental factors typically are another primary case of thatch. Conditions favoring thatch include heavy, wet soils; alkaline, or high pH soils; and soil compaction. All are common in northern Illinois.
As thatch levels accumulate to greater than 1/2 inch, lawn problems may begin, and the thatch needs to be controlled. Thatch may be torn out with a dethatcher or vertical mower, but will most likely return unless the cause is corrected. Mechanical dethatching is also very destructive to the lawn because roots are in thatch instead of soil, so plants tear out easily. Overseeding is usually required afterwards. For this reason, it's best to tear out thatch in late August for optimum reseeding timing.
Core aerating helps degrade thatch and also helps solve some of the causes of thatch.
Core aerification, followed by topdressing are two methods that will generally correct the reasons thatch is accumulating. Core aerifying machines will pull up small soil cores to the surface that are left there to act like topdressing. The holes created help solve problems such as compaction or poor drainage. Topdressing is simply adding a thin layer(1/8 to 1/4 inch) of compatible soil over the thatch, which adds microorganisms to help in breakdown.
Aerifying equipment may be rented or services are available to do it for hire. Aerifing is an excellent lawn practice with many benefits, as it helps solve soil problems that in turn leads to better root systems and healthier lawns. Aerify in spring or fall, making sure adequate moisture exists in the soil. Make two trips over the lawn, the second perpendicular to the first. An average of 15 to 20 aeration holes per square foot is suggested. Cores should remain on the surface and allowed to air dry. These cores act as topdressing that helps degrade thatch. Additional topdressing material could be added after core aerifying if desired.
Lawn Repair and Renovation
When repairing or renovating lawns, specialized equipment can increase effectiveness and make the job much easier. Match equipment to the task that needs to be done for best results.
Aerating machines that actually pull out soil cores are suggested for use on lawns.
As mentioned already, core aerification is an important and highly recommended practice for many lawns. This process is useful to help reduce soil compaction and thatch, improve surface drainage, and improve conditions prior to overseeding. Core aerifiers insert hollow tines into the lawn and pull out plugs of soil. Size of cores removed will depend on the machine used, soil moisture, and type of soil. Core spacing also varies with the specific machine being used. Machines can be rented or aerifying services are available for hire.
Spikers are similar to core aerifiers in that they make holes in the soil. However, they use solid tines, and thus, do not remove cores.
Vertical mowers have rotating blades arranged vertically that can cut into turf and soil. These machines can be used to remove thatch (dethatching). Turfgrass rooting in the thatch is typically torn out, so reseeding is suggested afterwards. Vertical mowers can also roughen the soil prior to overseeding areas.
Slit-seeders are useful for lawn renovation projects. Slit-seeders combine vertical mowing with seeding. As the machine goes across the lawn, it opens the soil and deposits seed directly into the soil opening. Most slit-seeders have a roller that helps firm the soil after seeding. Seed is metered at a predetermined rate; it's suggested to apply half the desired seeding rate in one direction and the other half on a second pass perpendicular to the first.
Silt-seeding equipment is useful for lawn renovation.
Since the seed is placed in direct contact with the soil, seeding success is usually high when using slit-seeders. In addition, existing grass and debris does not need to be completely removed prior to the overseeding process. Timing should be the same as for conventional lawn seeding, which ideally would be late August into early September. Many rental agencies carry slit-seeders or many lawn and landscape services can do it for hire.
Determining the cause of the lawn decline is the first step in the lawn renovation process. Many lawn problems originate from poor soil conditions. Heavy clay, compacted soils, and poorly drained soils may be the reason a lawn is doing poorly. These situations can be corrected during renovation. On the other hand, many lawn problems tend to be due to pests, weather conditions, or poor lawn care practices. Perhaps improved mowing, fertilizing, and watering may be all that's required to achieve acceptable lawn quality.
Typical Lawn Care Mistakes and Problems They Can Create
Lawn Care Mistake Potential Problem Favored
Mowing Too Short Crabgrass, Diseases
Frequent, Light Watering Crabgrass, Disease
Overwatering Thatch, Disease
Overfertilizing Disease, Thatch
Underfertilizing Disease, Weeds
Once the problem has been identified, the renovation process may begin. Think of renovation as fitting one of three levels: overseeding with little additional work; significant work, but allowing existing grass to remain; or completely removing the existing lawn and starting over.
The decision of which level to choose depends on how bad the lawn looks and what caused the problem. For example, if the lawn is just a little thin, overseeding with a quality lawn seed in late August or early September may be the answer. Use of a slit-seeder is an ideal way to overseed lawns. Seed may also be broadcast over thin lawn areas, but there needs to be good soil to seed contact. Dethatchers or vertical mowers can also be used to tear out excess debris prior to overseeding. In addition, slit-seeding could also be done directly through grass and/or weeds killed with the nonselective herbicide glyphosate. All of these types of overseeding procedures do not require additional soil modification.
When soil problems exist under a lawn, there are ways to address them without tearing up the lawn. As mentioned earlier, core aerifying is suggested for problems such as thatch and soil compaction. Aerifying, overseeding, and slit-seeding (breaks up cores) may be an ideal level of renovation for many lawns.
Unfortunately, some lawn problems, such as soil problems of severe compaction, high clay levels, or poor drainage, may require starting over. Remove existing grass or rototill it. High populations of perennial weed species may require use of a nonselective herbicide, such as glyphosate. Thoroughly work the soil to a depth of six inches. Add amendments such as compost, rotted manure, organic topsoil, and peat. Follow proper selection and establishment procedures (refer to Seeding and Sodding Lawns - Lesson 3) to get the new lawn off to a good start.
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